THE 



MARITIME PROVINCES; 



HANDBOOK FOR TRATELIEES. 



A GUIDE TO 



THE CHIEF CITIES, COASTS, AND ISLANDS OF THE MARITIME PROV- 
INCES OF CANADA, AND TO THEIR SCENERY AND HISTORIC 
ATTRACTIONS ; WITH THE GULF AND RIVER OF ST. 
LAWRENCE TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL ; 
ALSO, NEWFOUNDLANT) AND THE 
LABRADOR COAST. 

WitU Four Maps and Four Plans, 





BOSTOI^: 
JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, 

Late Ticknor & Fields, and Fields, Osgood, & Co. 

1875. 



3? 






Copyright, 1875. 
lY JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO. 



> 

X 



(K 







U^ 



University Press : Welch, Bigelow, & Co., 
Cambridge. 



PEEFACE, 



The chief object of the Handbook to the Maritime Provinces 
is to supply the place of a guide in a land where professional 
ndes cannot be found, and to assist the traveller in gaining 
liie greatest possible amount of pleasure and information while 
passing through the most interesting portions of Eastern British 
America. The St. Lawrence Provinces have been hitherto casu- 
ally treated in books which cover w*ider sections of country (the 
best of which have long been out of print), and the Atlantic 
Provinces have as yet received but little attention of this kind. 
The present guide-book is the first which has been devoted to 
their treatment in a combined form and according to the most 
approved princij)les of the European works of similar purpose 
and character. It also includes descriptions of the remote and 
interesting coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador, which have 
never before been mentioned in works of this character. The 
Handbook is designed to enable travellers to visit any or all 
of the notable places in the Maritime Provinces, with economy 
of money, time, and temper, by giving lists of the hotels with 
their prices, descriptions of the various routes by land and water, 
and maps and plans of the principal cities. The letter-press 
contains epitomes of the histories of the cities and the ancient 
settlements along the coast, statements of the principal scenic 
attractions, descriptions of the art and architecture of the cities, 
and statistics of the chief industries of the included Provinces. 
The brilliant and picturesque records and traditions of the early 
French and Scottish colonies, and the heroic exploits of the 
Jesuit missionaries, have received special attention in connection 
with the localities made famous in those remote days ; and the 
remarkable legends and mythology of the Micmac Indians are 



iv PREFACE. 

incorporated with tlie accounts of tlie places made classic by 
them. The naval and military operations of the wars which 
centred on Port Royal, Louisboiirg, and Quebec have been con- 
densed from the best authorities, and the mournful events Avhich 
are commemorated in " Evangeline " are herein analyzed and 
recorded. The noble coast-scenery and the favorite summer- 
voyages with which the northern seas abound have been de- 
scribed at length in these pages. 

The plan and structure of the book, its system of treatment 
and forms of abbreviation, have been derived from the European 
Handbooks of Karl Baedeker. The typography, binding, and 
system of city plans also resemble those of Baedeker, and hence 
the grand desiderata of compactness and portability, which have 
made his works the most popular in Europe, have also been 
attained in the present volume. Nearly all the facts concerning 
the routes, hotels, and scenic attractions have been framed or 
verified from the Editor's personal experience, after many 
months of almost incessant travelling for this express purpose. 
But infallibility is impossible in a work of this nature, especial- 
ly amid the rapid changes which are ever going on in America, 
and hence the Editor would be grateful for any bona fide cor- 
rections or suggestions with which either travellers or residents 
may favor him. 

The maps and plans of cities have been prepared with the 
greatest care, and will doubtless prove of material service to all 
who may trust to their directions. They are based on the system 
of lettered and numbered squares, with figures corresponding to 
similar figures, attached to lists of the chief public buildings, 
hotels, churches, and notable objects. The hotels indicated by 
asterisks are those which are believed by the Editor to be the 
most comfortable and elegant. 

]\r. F. -SWEETSER, 

Editor of Osgood's American HandhooTcs, 

ISl Franklin St., Boston. 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 
. 1 



I. Plan of Tour 

II. Newfoundland and Labrador 

III. Money and Travelling Expenses •* 

IV. Railways and Steamboats 



V. Round-Trip Excursions ^ 



VT. Hotels ' 

VII. Language 

VIII. Climate and Dress ^ 

IX. Fishing . . . • 8 

X. Miscellaneous Notes ^ 

NEW BRUNSWICK. 

ROUTE ,o 

General Notes ■^'* 

1. St. John ^^ 

2. The Environs of St. John 22 

1. Lily Lake. Marsh Road 22 

2. Mispeck Road. Suspension Bridge 23 

3. Carleton 24 

3. St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. Passamaquoddy Bat . 25 

1. Eastport 26 

4. Grand Manan 28 

5. St. John to St. Andrews and St. Stephen. Passamaquoddy Bay 30 

1. St. George. Lake Utopia 32 

2. St. Andrews. Chamcook Mountain 33 

3. St. Stephen. Schoodic Lakes 35 

6. St. Andrews and St. Stephen to Woodstock and Houlton . 36 

7. St. John to Bangor 37 

8. St. John to Fredericton. The St. John River .... 39 

1. Kennebecasis Bay ^^ 

2. Belleisle Bay 42 

3. Fredericton ■** 

4. Fredericton to Miramichi 46 

9. Washademoak Lake 47 

10. Grand Lake 48 

11. Fredericton to Woodstock 49 

12. Fredericton to Woodstock, by the St. John River ... 51 

13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Riviere du Loup . . . .53 



COXTEXTS. 



EOITE PAGE 

1. Tolnque to Bathurst 54 

2. The St John to the Restigouohe 66 

a The Madawaska District 57 

4. The Maine W\xxis, Temisoouata Liike 5S 

14. St. Johx to She^h.vc 50 

15. The Bay of Chalei-k ant the North Shore of Xew Bruxswick GO 

1. Chatham to Shippigan 01 

'2. Shippigtui. RiY of Chaloiir 04 

5. Rithui-st to Cai-aquette GG 

4. Canipbellton to St. Fhivie Oi^ 

16. St. John to Amheikst and Halifax TO 

1. Quaoa Sussex Yale 71 

2. AU^ert County. Monoton to Quebec 72 

5. Porchostor. SackviUe 73 



NOVA SCOTIA. 

Genonil Xotes 75 

17. St. John to Amherst and Halifax 7S 

1. Tantramar Mai-sh. Chigneoto Feniusula 79 

2. North Shore of Nova Scotia SI 

IS. St. John to Halifax, by the Anxapolis Valley' ... S3 

1. Annapolis Royal S5 

2. The Annapolis Valley SS 

S. Kentville to Chester iHi 

19. HALIF.A.X 93 

20. The Environs of Halifax 100 

1. Bedfoixi Basin. Point Tleasant 100 

21. The Basin of Minas. Halifax to St. Johx 101 

1. Advocate Harbor and Cape d"Or 103 

2. The Risin of Minas IW 

22. The Land of Evangeline 107 

23. Annapolis Royal to Clare ani> Yarmoith 112 

1. The Clai-e Settlements 113 

2. The Tnsket Lakes and Archipelago -.115 

24. PiGBY Neck 116 

25. Halifax to Yarmouth. The Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia . 117 

1. Cai>e Sjimbiw Lunenbui-g US 

2. Liverpool . . lilO 

S. Shelburne l.n 

4. Cape Siible l'J3 

26. Halifax to YARiiovTH, by the Shore Route .... IJO 

1. Chester. Mahone Riy 1J7 

2. Chester to Liverpool 12S 

27. The Liverpool Lakes 129 

2S. Halifax to Tangier 131 

29. The Northeast Coast of Nova Scotia 133 

SO. Saeue Island 134 



CONTENTS. vii 

koute page 

31. St. John and Halifax to Pictou 136 

32. St. John and Halifax to the Strait of Canso and Cape Breton 138 

CAPE BRETON. 

General Notes 141 

33. The Strait of Canso 142 

34. Arichat and Isle Madame 145 

35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney, Cape Breton . . . . 146 

36. Halifax to Sydney, Cape Breton 148 

37. The East Coast of Cape Breton. The Sydney Coal-Fields . 152 

38. The Fortress of Louisbourg 154 

39. The North Shore of Cape Breton 158 

1. St. Anne's Bay . . . . • 158 

2. St. Paul's Island 160 

40. The Bras d'Or Lakes 161 

1. Baddeck 162 

2. Great Bras d'Or Lake 164 

3. The Bras d'Or to Halifax 166 

41. Baddeck to Mabou and Port Hood 167 

1. St. Patrick's Channel. Whycocomagh 167 

42. The West Coast of Cape Breton 168 

1. Port Hood. Mabou 169 

2. Margaree. The Lord's Day Gale 170 

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 

General Notes 172 

43. Shediac to Summerside and Charlottetown .... 174 

1. The Northumberland Strait 174 

44. Pictou to Prince Edward Island 175 

45. Charlottetown 175 

1. Environs of Charlottetown 177 

46. Charlottetown to Summerside and Tignish. The Western 

Shores of Prince Edward Island 177 

1. Rustico. Summerside - . 178 

47. Charlottetown to Georgetown . 180 

48. Charlottetown to Sotris 182 

49. The Magdalen Islands . . 183 

50. St. Pierre and Miquelon 185 

NEWFOUNDLAND. 

General Notes 187 

51. Halifax to St. John's, Newfoundland 188 

52. St. John's, Newfoundland 189 

53. The Environs of St. John's 195 

1. Portugal Cove. Logie Bay. Torbay 195 

54. The Strait Shore of Avalon. St. John's to Cape Race . . 196 



vili CONTENTS. 



ROUTE PAGE 

1. The Grand Banks of Newfoundland 199 

55. St. John's to Labrador. The Northern Coast of Newfoundland 200 

1. Bonavista Bay 203 

2. Twillingate. Exploits Island 205 

56. St. John's to Conception Bay 206 

57. Trinity Bay . 208 

58. The Bay of Notre Dame 210 

59. Placentia Bay 212 

60. The Western Outports. St. John's to Cape Ray .... 213 

1. Fortune Bay 214 

2. Hermitage Bay 215 

61. The French Shore. Cape Ray to Cape St. John . . . 216 

1. The Interior of Newfoundland , . 218 

2. The Strait of Belle Isle 220 

LABRADOR. 

General Notes 223 

62. The Atlantic Coast, to the Moravian Missions and Greenland 224 

1. The Moravian Missions . 226 

63. The Labrador Coast of the Strait of Belle Isle ... 227 

64. The Labrador Coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence . . . 229 

1. The Mingan Islands 231 

2. The Seven Islands 232 

65. Anticosti 234 

PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. 

General Notes 235 

66. Pictou to Quebec. The Coasts of Gaspe 238 

1. Paspebiac 240 

2. Perce 242 

3. Gaspe 244 

67. The Lower St. Lawrence 246 

1. Father Point. Rimouski 250 

2. Bic. Trois Pistoles 251 

3. St. Anne de la Pocatiere. L'Islet 253 

68. Quebec 255 

1. Durham Terrace 259 

2. Jesuits' College. Basilica • . . 261 

3. Seminary 262 

4. Laval University. Parliament Building 263 

5. Hotel Dieu. Around the Ramparts 266 

6. The Lower Town 271 

69. The Environs of Quebec 276 

1. Beauport. Montmorenci Falls 276 

2. Indian Lorette 278 

3. Chateau Bigot. Sillery . .280 

4. Point Levi. Chaudiere Falls 282 



CONTENTS. ix 

eotjte - page 

70. Quebec to La Bonne Ste. Anne 283 

1. The Falls of St. Anne 283 

71. The Isle of Orleans . . . 288 

72. Quebec to Cacouna and the Saguenay River .... 291 

1. St. Paul's Bay 292 

2. Murray Bay 294 

3. Cacouna . . . 296 

73. The Saguenay River . . " 297 

1. Tadousac 299 

2. Chicoutimi 300 

3. Ha Ha Bay. Lake St. John 301 

4. Eternity Bay. Cape Trinity 303 

74. Quebec to Montreal. The St. Lawrence River .... 305 

75. Montreal 309 

1. Victoria Square. Notre Dauie 311 

2. The GesiL St. Patrick's Church 313 

3. Cathedral. McGill University. Great Seminary .... 314 

4. Hotel Dieu. Mount Royal. Victoria Bridge .... 316 

76. The Environs of Montreal 318 

1. Around the Mountain. Sault au Recollet 318 

2. Lachine Rapids. Caughnawaga ^ .319 

3. Beloeil Mt. St. Anne 320 

Index to Localities 321 

Index to Historical and Biographical Allusions .... 332 

Index to Quotations 333 

Index to Railways and Steamboats 834 

List of Authorities Consulted 334 



MAPS. 

- •' 1. Map of the Makitime Provinces : before title-page. 

t 2. Map of Newfoundland and Labrador : after the index. 
-^ 3. Map of the Acadian Land : between pages 106 and 107. '^ *) 
->/ 4. Map of the Saguenay River : between pages 296 and 297. \ 

^^ 5. Map of the Lower St. Lawrence River : between pages 296 and 297. 



PLANS OF CITIES. 

-. 1. St. John : between pages 14 and 15. 

2. Halifax : between pages 92 and 93. 

3. Quebec : between pages 254 and 255. 

4. Montreal : between pages 808 and 309. 



ABBREVIATIONS. 



N. — North, Northern, etc. 
S. — South, etc. 
E. — East, etc. 
W. — West, etc. 
N. B. — New Brunswick. 
N. S. — Nova Scotia. 
N. F. — Newfoundland. 
Lab. — Labrador. 



P. E. I. — Prince Edward Island. 

P. Q. — Province of Quebec. 

M. — mile or miles. 

r. — right. 

1.— left. 

ft. — foot or feet. 

hr. — hour. 

min. —minute or minutes. 



Asterisks denote objects deserving of special attention. 



INTRODUCTIOK 



I. Plan of Tour. 

The most profitable course for a tourist in the Lower Provinces is to 
keep moving, and his route should be made to include as many as pos- 
sible of the points of interest which are easily accessible. There are but 
few places in this region where the local attractions are of sufficient inter- 
est to justify a prolonged visit, or where the accommodations for stran- 
gers are adapted to make such a sojourn pleasant. The historic and 
scenic beauties are not concentrated on a few points, but extend through- 
out the country, affording rare opportunities for journeys whose general 
course may be replete with interest. The peculiar charms of the Mari- 
time Provinces are their history during the Acadian era and their noble 
coast scenery, — the former containing some of the most romantic episodes 
in the annals of America, and the latter exhibiting a marvellous blending 
of mountainous capes and picturesque islands with the blue northern sea. 
And these two traits are intertwined throughout, for there is scarce a 
promontory that has not ruins or legends of French fortresses, scarce a 
bay that has not heard the roaring broadsides of British frigates. 

The remarkable ethnological phenomena here presented are also cal- 
culated to awaken interest even in the lightest minds. The American tour- 
ist, accustomed to the homogepeousness of the cities and rural communi- 
ties of the Republic, may here see extensive districts inhabited by French- 
men or by Scottish Highlanders, preserving their national languages, cus- 
toms, and amusements unaffected by the presence and pressure of British 
influence and power. Of such are the districts of Clare and Madawaska 
and the entire island of Cape Breton. The people of the cities and the 
English settlements are quaintly ultra- Anglican (in the secular sense of 
the word), and follow London as closely as possible in all matters of cos- 
tume, idiom, and social manners. 

All these phases of provincial life and history afford subjects for study 
or amusement to the traveller, and may serve to make a summer voyage 
both interesting and profitable. 

Travelling has been greatly facilitated, within a few years, by the es- 
tablishment of railways and steamship routes throughout the Provinces. 
From the analyses of these lines, given in the following pages, the tourist 

1 A 



2 INTEODUCTION. 

will be able to compute the cost of his trip, both in money and in time. 
The following tour would include a glimpse at the chief attractions of the 
coimtry, and will serve to convey an idea of the time requisite : — 

Boston to St. John 1| days. 

St. John 1 

St. John to Annapolis and Halifax .... 2 

Halifax 1 

Halifax to Sydney 1^ 

The Bras d'Or Lakes 1 

Port Hawkesbury to Pictou, Charlottetown, and Shediac 2 

Shediac to Quebec (by steamer) 4 

Quebec 3 

Quebec to Boston 1 

Failures to connect 3 



21 days. 

To this circular tour several side-trips may be added, at the discretion 
of the traveller. The most desirable among these are the routes to Pas- 
samaquoddy Bay, the St. John Eiver, the Basin of Minas (to Parrsboro'), 
from Halifax to Chester and Mahone Bay, Whycocomagh, or Louisbourg 
(in Cape Breton), and the Saguenay Eiver. Either of these side-trips will 
take from two to four days. 

If the tourist wishes to sojourn for several days or weeks in one place, 
the most eligible points for such a visit, outside of St. John and Halifax, 
are St. Andrews, Grand Manan, or Dalhousie, in New Brunswick ; An- 
napolis, Wolfville, Parrsboro', or Chester, in Nova Scotia ; Baddeck, in 
Cape Breton ; and, perhaps, Summerside, in Prince Edward Island. At 
each of these villages are small but comfortable inns, and the surround- 
ing scenery is attractive. 

II. Newfoundland and Labrador. 

Extended descriptions of these remote northern coasts have been given 
in the following pages for the use of the increasing number of travellers 
who yearly pass thitherward. The marine scenery of Newfoundland is 
the grandest on the North Atlantic coast, and here are all the varied phe- 
nomena of the northern seas, — icebergs, the aurora borealis, the herds of 
seals, the desolate and lofty shores, and the vast fishing-fleets from which 
France and the United States draw their best seamen. English and 
American yachtsmen grow more familiar every year with these coasts, 
and it is becoming more common for gentlemen of our Eastern cities 
to embark on fishing-schooners and make the voyage to Labrador or the 
Banks. 

The tourist can also reach the remotest settlements on the Labrador 



INTRODUCTION. 3 

coast by the steamship lines from Halifax to St, John's, N. F., and thence 
to Battle Harbor, This route takes a long period of time, though the 
expense is comparatively light ; and the accommodations on the steam- 
ships beyond St. John's are quite inferior. A shorter circular tour may 
be made by taking the steamer from Halifax to St. John's, and at St. 
John's embarking on the Western Outports steamship, which coasts along 
the entire S. shore of the island, and runs down to Sydney, C, B., 
once a month. From Sydney the tourist can return to Halifax (or St. 
John, N. B.) by way of the Bras d'Or Lakes. The Western Outports 
steamship also visits the quaint French colony at St. Pierre and Miquelon 
fortnightly, and the traveller can stop off there and return directly to 
Halifax by the Anglo-French steamship, which leaves St. Pierre fort- 
nightly. 

Sea-Sickness. The chief benefit to be derived on these routes is the 
invigoration of the bracing air of the northern sea. Persons who are 
liable to sea-sickness should avoid the Newfoundland trip, since rough 
weather is frequently experienced there, and the stewai-ds are neither as 
numerous nor as dexterous as those on the transatlantic steamships. The 
Editor is tempted to insert here a bit of personal experience, showing 
how the results of early experiences, combined with the advice of veteran 
travellers, have furnished him with a code of rules which are useful against 
the mal du mer in all its forms. During 28 days on the Mediterranean 
Sea and 45 days on the Canadian waters, the observance of these simple 
rules prevented sickness, although every condition of weather was expe- 
rienced, from the fierce simoom of the Lybian Desert to the icy gales of 
Labrador. The chief rule, to which the others are but corollaries, is, 
Don't think of your physical self. Any one in perfect health, who will 
busy himself for an hour in thinking about the manner in which his 
breath is inhaled, or in which his eyes perform their functions, will soon 
feel ill at ease in his lungs or eyes, and can only regain tranquillity by 
banishing the disturbing thoughts. Avoid, therefore, this gloomy and 
apprehensive self-contemplation, and fill the mind with bright and en- 
grossing themes, — the conversation of merry companions, the exciting 
vicissitudes of card-playing, or the marvellous deeds of some hero of ro- 
mance. Never think of your throat and stomach, nor think of thinking 
or not thinking of them, but forget that such conveniences exist. Keep 
on deck as much as possible, warmly wrapped up, and inhaling the salty 
air of the sea. Don't stay in the lee of the fimnel, where the smell of oil 
is nauseating. And if you are still ill at ease, lie down in your state- 
room, with the port-hole slightly opened, and go to sleep. The tourist 
should purchase, before leaving Halifax, two or three lively novels, a flask 
of fine brandy, a bottle of pickled limes, and a dozen lemons. 



4 INTRODUCTION. 

III. Money and Travelling Expenses. 

The tourist will experience great inconvenience from the lack of a uni- 
form currency in the Provinces. If he carries New-Brunswick money into 
Nova Scotia or Quebec, it can only be passed at a discount ; and the same 
is true with Nova-Scotia or Quebec bills in either of the other Provinces. 
There appears to be no standard currency in circulation. To save fre- 
quent discounts, it is best for the tourist to carry U. S. money, changing 
it, in each Province, for the amount of loca,l currency that he will be 
likely to need- there. Respectable shop-keepers in the cities take U. S. 
money in payment for their goods, valuing it at the rate at which it is 
quoted on the local exchange. It is, however, more economical and con- 
venient to take the U. S. money to an exchange office and buy as much 
of the local currency as will be needed during the sojourn. The shop- 
keepers are apt to charge at least full prices to people who have Amer- 
ican money. 

The silver coins of this country could only be defined in a lengthy 
numismatical treatise. There are half-crowns, two-shilling pieces, flor- 
ins, shillings, and several smaller grades of English coins, independent 
and varying silver and copper tokens of each of the Lower Provinces, the 
money of Ne^vfoundland, and large quantities of American silver. The 
latter is very unstable in its valuation, since a 25-cent piece goes for from 
20 to 24 cents in the same city and on the same day, the rate of ex- 
change apparently depending on the time of day and the mood of the 
shop-keeper. Nova-Scotian or Canadian money is held at a heavy dis- 
count in Newfoundland, and it is better to carry greenbacks there. 

IV. Railways and Steamboats. 

The new-born railway system of the Maritime Provinces is being ex- 
tended rapidly on all sides, by the energy of private corporations and 
the liberality of the Canadian Government. The lines are generally well 
and securely constructed, on English principles of solidity, and are not 
yet burdened by such a pressure of traffic as to render travelling in any 
way dangerous. The cars are built on the American plan, and are suf- 
ficiently comfortable. On most trains there are no accommodations for 
smokers, and, generally, when any such convenience exists, it is only to 
be had in the second-class cars. Pullman cars were introduced on the 
Intercolonial Railway in 1874, and will probably be retained there during 
the summer seasons. They have been used on the European and North 
American road for three years. There are restaurants at convenient dis- 
tances on the lines, where the trains stop long enough for passengers to 
take their meals. The narrow-gauge cars on Prince Edward Island and 
on the New Brunswick Railway will attract the attention of travellers, 
on account of their singular construction. The tourist has choice of 



INTEODUCTION. 5 

three grades of accommodation on the chief railways, — Pullman car, 
first class, and second class. The latter mode of travelling is very un- 
comfortable. 

The steamships which ply along these coasts afford material for a 
naval museum. At least two vessels of the Quebec and Gulf Ports 
fleet were captured blockade-runners ; the Edgar Stuart was one of the 
most daring of the Cuban supply-ships, and was nearly the cause of 
a battle between the Spanish steamer Tornado and the U. S. frigate 
Wyoming, in the harbor of Aspinwall ; the M. A . Starr was built for 
a British gunboat ; it is claimed that the Virgo was intended for a U. S. 
man-of-war ; and there are several other historic vessels now engaged in 
these peaceful pursuits. Good accommodations are given on the vessels 
which ply between Boston and St. John and to Halifax and Prince Ed- 
ward Island, The cabins of the Quebec and Gulf Ports steamships are 
elegantly fitted up, and are airy and spacious. The Annapolis, Minas, 
Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland lines have comfortable accom- 
modations, and the Yarmouth and North Shore vessels are also fairly 
equipped. The lines to the Magdalen Islands, St. Pierre, and along the 
Newfoundland and Labrador coasts are primarily intended for the trans- 
portation of freight, and for successfully encountering rough weather and 
heavy seas, and have small cabins and plain fare. The Saguenay steam- 
ers resemble the better class of American river-boats, and have fine 
accommodations. Since the Canadas are under the English social system 
and have retained the Old-World customs, it will be foimd expedient, in 
many cases, to conciliate the waiters and stewards by small gifts of 
money. As the results thereof, the state-rooms will be better cared for, 
and the meals will be more promptly and generously served. 

The Mail-Stages. — The remoter districts of the Provinces are visited 
by lines of stages. The tourist will naturally be deceived by the grandil- 
oquent titles of "Koyal Mail Stage," or "Her Majesty's Mail Koute," 
and suppose that some reflected stateliness will invest the vehicles that 
bear such august names. In point of fact, and with but two or three 
exceptions, the Provincial stages are far from corresponding to such ex- 
pectations ; being, in most cases, the rudest and plainest carriages, some- 
times drawn by but one horse, and usually improvided with covers. The 
fares, however, are very low, for this class of transportation, and a good 
rate of speed is usually kept up. 

V. Sound-Trip Excursions. 

During the summer and early autiunn the railway and steamship com- 
panies prepare lists of excursions at greatly reduced prices. Information 
and lists of these routes may be obtained of George F. Field, General 
Passenger Agent of the Eastern R. R., 134 Washington St., Boston ; T. 



6 INTKODUCTIOX. 

Edward Eond, Ticket Agent of the Central Vermont R. R., 148 Washing- 
ton St., Boston; and from Stevenson and Leve, Passenger Agents of tlie 
Quebec and Gulf Ports S. S. Co., Quebec. Small books are issued every 
spring by these companies, each giving several hundred combinations of 
routes, ■svitli their prices. They may be obtained on application, in person 
or by letter, at the above-mentioned offices. The excursion tickets are 
good dm-ing the season, and have all the privileges of first-class tickets. 
The following toui-s, selected from the books of the three companies (for 
1874), will serve to convey an idea of the pecuniary expense incm-red in a 
trip through the best sections of the Maritime Provinces. 

The Central Vermont R. R. — (Excursion 139.) International steam- 
ship, Boston to St. John ; St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis route ; 
Halifax to Pictou, by the Intercolonial Railway; Pictou to Quebec, by 
the Q. k G. P. steamships (meals and state-room extra) ; Quebec to Mon- 
treal, by the Richelieu steamer, or the Grand Trmik Railway ; Quebec to 
Boston, by the Central Vermont R. R, Fare, $34.50; or if the Eastern 
Railroad is preferred between Boston and St. John, $36.50. 

Boston to Portland, by Eastern R. R. ; N. E. & N. S. S. S. Co. to Hali- 
fax ; Halifax to Point du Chene, by the Intercolonial Railway ; Point du 
Chene to Quebec, by Q. & G. P. S. S. Co. ; Quebec to Montreal, by rail- 
way or steamer ; Montreal to Boston, by the Central Vermont R. R. 
Fare, $33.35. 

Boston to Montreal, by Central Vt. R. R. and connections; Montreal 
to Quebec, by railway or steamer ; Quebec •to Point du Chene, by Q. & 
G. P. steamship ; Point du Chene to St. John, by Intercolonial Railway ; 
St. John to Boston, by International steamship. Fare, §29.15. 

Eastern R. R. — Boston to St. John, by rail ; St. John to Point du 
Chene, by Intercolonial Railway ; Point d\i Chene to Quebec, by Quebec 
and Gulf Ports S. S. Co. ; Quebec to Boston, by Grand Trunk and East- 
ern Railways. Fare, $35.65. 

Boston to St. John and Shediac, by rail ; Shediac to Summerside, Char- 
lottetown, and Pictoii, by steamship ; Pictou to Halifax, by rail ; Halifax 
to St. John, by the Annapolis route ; St. John to Boston, by rail. Fai-e, 
$34.10. 

Boston to Portland, by rail ; Portland to St. John, by steamer ; St. 
John to Halifax, by Annapolis route ; Halifax to St. John, by Intercolo- 
nial Railway ; St. John to Boston, by rail. Fare, $26.50. 

Quebec and Gulf Pm-ts S. S. Co. — Boston to Pictou, by the Boston 
and Colonial S. S. Co. ; Pictou to Quebec, by the Q. & G. P. S. S. Co. 
Fare, $ 21 ; fare from Quebec to Boston, $ 10. 

Boston to Halifax, by Boston and Colonial S. S. Co. ; Halifax to St. 
John, by the Annapolis route ; St. John to Point du Chene, by Inter- 
colonial Railway ; Point du Chene to Quebec, by Q. k G. P. S. S. Co. 
Fare, $26.50. 



INTRODUCTION. 7 

Boston to Portland, by Eastern R, R. ; Portland to St. John, by Inter- 
national S. S. Co. ; St. John to Point du Chene, by Intercolonial Rail- 
way ; Point du Chene to Quebec, by Q. & G. P. S. S. Co. Fare, $ 19. 

VI. Hotels. 

The Hotels of the Maritime Provinces are far behind the age. The 
Victoria Hotel, at St. John, is the only first-class house in the four Prov- 
inces, though the two chief hotels at Halifax are comfortable. The 
Island Park Hotel, at Summerside, P. E. I,, is the only summer resort 
of any consequence. The general rates at the better hotels of the second 
class is $2 a day ; and the village inns and country taverns charge from 
$ 1 to $ 1.50, with reductions for boarders by the week. 

VII. Language. 

The English language will be found sufficient, unless the tourist desires 
to visit the more remote districts of Cape Breton, or the Acadian settle- 
ments. The Gaelic is probably the predominant language on Cape Breton, 
but English is also spoken in the chief villages and fishing-communities. 
In the more secluded farming-districts among the highlands the Gaelic 
tongue is more generally used, and the tourist may sometimes find whole 
families, not one of whom can speak English. 

In the villages along the Lower St. Lawrence, and especially on the 
North Shore, the French language is in common use, and English is 
nearly unknown. The relation of this language to the polite French 
speech of the present day is not clearly understood, and it is frequently 
stigmatized by Americans as ''an unintelligible patois.'^ This state- 
ment is erroneous. The Canadian French has borrowed from the Eng- 
lish tongue a few nautical and political terms, and has formed for itself 
words describing the peculiar phenomena and conditions of nature in the 
new homes of the people. The Indians have also contributed numerous 
terms, descriptive of the animals and their habits, and the operations of 
forest-life. But the interpolated words are of rare occurrence, and the 
language is as intelligible as when brought from the North of France, two 
centuries ago. It is far closer in its resemblance to the Parisian speech 
than are the dialects of one fourth of the departments of France. Trav- 
ellers and immigrants from Old France find no difficulty in conversing 
with the Lower-Canadians, and the aristocracy of Quebec speak as pure 
an idiom as is used in the Faubourg St. Germain. Among others whose 
testimony has been given in support of this fact, the Editor would adduce 
a gentleman whom he recently met in Canada, and who was an officer in 
the Imperial Guard until its capture in the Franco-Prussian war. He 
stated that neither he nor any of his compatriots, who came over after 
the triumph of Germany, had ever had any difficulty with the Canadian 
language, and that he had not yet learned a word of English. 



5 IXTKOPrCTIOX. 

This langtiag? bas an e:xtensdve and interesting literatnre, which in- 
cludes science, theology, history, romance, and poetry. It has also 
numerous newspapers and magixrines, and is kept from adulteration by 
the vidlance of sevend colleges and a powerful university. It is usevl. 
co-or\linately with the English Language, in the reconls and journjils of 
the Dominion and Provincial rarli;unents. and speeches and pleadings 
in French are allowable before the Parliaments :ind courts of Canad:i, 

Thus much to prove the sxtbstcvntial identity of the Lower-Canadian and 
French lang\n\ges. The tourist who wishes to ramble through the an- 
cient French-Ciinadian districts will, therefore, get on very well if he has 
travelled much in Old France. Btit if the langu.nge is \tnknown to him, 
he will be subjected to many inconveniences and harvlships. 

VIII. Climate and Dress. 

The more northerly situation of the Maritime Provinces and their vicin- 
ity, on so many sides, to the sea. render the climate even more severe and 
uncertain than that of New England. The extremes of heat and cold ai-e 
much farther apart than in the corresponding latitudes of Europe, and, 
as Marmier expresses it, this region "combines the torrid climate of 
southern regions with the severity of i\n hyperlxvrean winter." During 
the brief but lovely summer the atmosphere is clear and balmy, and 
vegetation flourishes amain. The winters are long and severe, but ex- 
ercise no evil effect on the people, nor restrain the merry gaiues of the 
vouths. Ever since Knowles sent to Enghmd his celebrated dictimi that 
the climate of Nova Scotia consisted of " nine months of winter an.! three 
months of fog,'" the people of Britain and America have had highly ex- 
aggerated ideas of the severity of the seasons in the Pi\->vinces. These 
statements are not borne out by the facts ; and. though Nova Scotia 
and New Brunswick have not the mild skies of Virginia, their coldest 
weather is surpasseil by the winters of the Northwestern States, The 
meteorological tables and the physical condition of the people prove that 
the climate, though severe, is healthy and invigorating. The time has 
gone by for describhig these Provinces as a gloomy land of frozen HyjH^r- 
boreaus. and for decrying them with pessimistic pen. 

The worst annoyance experienced by tourists is the prevalence of dense 
fogs, which sometimes sweep in suddenly from the sea and bi\xxl over the 
cities. In order to encoimter such tmwelcome visitations, and also to be 
prepared against fresh breezes on the open sea, travellers should be pro- 
vided with heavy shawls or overcoats, and woollen underclotMug slioidd 
be kept at hand. 

IX. Fishing. 

''Anglers in the United States Avho desire to tish a salmon-river in tlio 
Pomiuion of Canada should club together and apply for the tiuvial parts 



INTRODUCTION. 9 

of rivers The government leases the rivers for a term of nine years, 

and rivers unlet on the first day of each year are advertised by tlie gov- 
ernment to be let to the highest bidders. The places of residence of those 
tendering for fishings are not considered in letting a river ; and if a gen- 
tleman from the States overbids a Canadian, the river will be declared as 
his. Rivers are therefore hired by Europeans as well as by Canadians 

and citizens of the States Rivers are either let in whole or parts, 

each part permitting the use of a given number of rods, generally four. 
Parties who desire to lease a Canadian river should address a letter to the 
Minister of Marine and Fisheries, at Ottawa, stating how many rods they 
have, and the district which they prefer to fish. He will forward them 
a list of the leasable rivers, and a note of information, upon which they 
should get some Canadian to make the tender for them. The leases of 
fluvial parts of rivers vary from two to six hundred dollars a year for 
from three to eight rods, and the price for guides or gaffers is a dollar a 
day." (This subject is fully discussed in Scott's " Fishing in American 
Waters.") 

"The Game Fish of the Northern States and British Provinces," by 
Robert B. Roosevelt (published by Carleton, of New York, in 1865), 
contains an account of the salmon and sea-trout fishing of Canada and 
New Brunswick. The pursuit of sea-trout on the Lower St. Lawrence 
and Laval is described in pages 50-88 and 315-321; the Labrador rivers, 
pages 107-111 ; the Miramichi and Nepisiguit Rivers, pages 111-145 ; 
the Schoodic Lakes, pages 145-147. 

" Fishing in American Waters," by Genio C. Scott (published by Har- 
per and Brothers, 1869), contains practical directions to sportsmen, and 
graphic descriptions of fishing in the rivers of New Brunswick and Lower 
Quebec. 

" Frank Forester's Fish and Fishing of the United States and British 
Provinces of North America," by H. W. Herbert (New York, 1850), is to 
a large extent technical and scientific, and contains but a few incidental 
allusions to the provincial fisheries. 

"The Fishing Tourist," by Charles Hallock (published by Harper and 
Brothers, 1873), contains about 100 pages of pleasant descriptions relat- 
ing to the Schoodic Lakes, the best trout and salmon streams of Nova 
Scotia, New Brunswick, and Cape Breton, the Bay of Chaleur, the Sague- 
nay and Lower St, Lawrence, Anticosti, and Labrador. 

IX. Miscellaneous Notes. 

The times of departure of the provincial steamships are liable to change 

every season. The tables given in the ensuing routes are based on those 

of 1874, and the changes for 1875 are indicated so far as the Editor has 

been able to learn them. The tourist can find full particulars of the days 

1* 



10 IXTRODUCTIOX. 

of sailing, etc., on arriving at St. John, from the local and the Halifax 
newspapers. The names of the agents of these lines have also been given 
hereinafter, and further information may be obtained by wTiting to their 
addresses. 

Tlie custom-house formalities at the national frontiers depend less upon 
the actual laws than upon the men who exec;ite them. The examination 
of baggage is usually conducted in a lenient manner, but trunks and 
packiiges are sometimes detained on accoimt of the presence of too many 
Canadian goods. It is politic, as well as gentlemanly, for the tourist to 
afford the officers every facility for the inspection of his baggage. 

Travellers are advised to carefully inspect the prices of goods offered 
them by shop-keepers, since the lavish and unquestioning extravagance 
of American tourists has somewhat intiuenced the tone of commercial 
morality. 

The people of the Provinces are generally courteous, and are willing to 
answer any civilly put questions. The inhabitants of the more remote 
districts are distinguished for their hospitality, and are kindly disposed 
and honest. 



EOUTES FEOM B0ST0:N' TO THE MAEITIME 
PEOYINCES. 



1, By Railway. 

The Eastern and Maine Central R. R. Lines afford the best mode of ap- 
proach by land. Their trains leave the terminal station on Causeway St., 
Boston, and run through to Bangor, without change of cars. Pullman cars 
are attached to the through trains, and tickets are sold to nearly all points 
in the Eastern Provinces. At Bangor passengers change to the cars of 
the European & North American R. R., which runs E. through the great 
forests of Maine and New Brunswick to the city of St. John. Between 
Boston and Portland this route traverses a peculiarly interesting country, 
with frequent glimpses of the sea ; but the country between Bangor and 
St. John is almost devoid of attractions. 

The Boston f Maine R. R. may also be used as an avenue to the Eastern 
Provinces, though the Editor does not know what connections (if any) it 
makes at Portland with the lines to the Eastward. 

2. By Steamship. 

The International Steamship Company despatches vessels three times 
weekly from June 15 to October 1, leaving Commercial Wharf, Boston, at 
8 A. M., on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. They touch at Portland, 
which is left at 6 p. m. ; and afterwards they run along the Maine coast, 
calling at Eastport and traversing Passamoquoddy Bay. Fares, — from 
Boston to Eastport, $ 5 ; to St. John, $ 5.50. 

The steamers of the Portland Steam Packet Company leave India Wharf, 
Boston, every morning, running along the New England coast to Portland. 
At that city they connect with the fine steamship Falmouth, which leaves 
Portland every Saturday at 5.30 p. m., stretching out over the open sea, 
and, beyond Cape Sable, following the Nova-Scotia coast to Halifax. 

Clements'' Line affords the most convenient route to visit the famous 
hunting and fishing grounds of the western counties of Nova Scotia, The 



12 FROM BOSTON TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. 

steamship Domj'rz J ore leaves Lewis "Wharf, Boston, every Tuesday noon, for 
Yarmouth and St. John, giving an exhilarating voyage across the open 
sea. 

The Boston, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island Steamship Line despatch 
vessels from T Wharf, Boston, every Saturday at noon. After reaching 
Halifax these steamships run N. E. along the Nova-Scotia coast, round 
Cape Canso, and traverse the picturesque Gut of Canso. They call at 
Pictou and then run across to Charlottetown. By leaving the vessel at 
Port Hawkesbury, the tourist can easily reach the Bras d'Or and other 
parts of the island of Cape Breton. 

3. Eoutes by icay of Montreal and Quebec. 

Montreal may be reached by either the Central Vermont R. R., the ^lon- 
treal & Boston Short Line (Passumpsic R. R.), or the Eastern and Grand 
Trunk lines. These routes are all described in Osgood's New England: a 
Handbook for Travellers (revised up to 1S75). The most picturesque 
route from Quebec to the Maritime Provinces is by the vessels of the Que- 
bec & Gulf Ports Steamship Company, which leave every week for the 
eastern ports of Quebec, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia, connecting 
with the local lines of travel. It now seems improbable that the Interco- 
lonial Railway can be opened to travel from (Quebec and) Riviere de Loup 
to Mono ton and Halifax this year. 



Further particulars about these lines and their accommodations, the days 
on which they depart for Boston, etc., may be found in their advertise- 
ments, which are grouped at the end of the book. There, also, may be 
found the names and addresses of the agents of the lines, from whom other 
information may be obtained, by letter or by personal application. The 
main question for the summer tourist will naturally be whether he shall 
go eastward by rail or by a short sea-voyage. The Editor has travelled 
on each of the above-mentioned lines (with one exception) and on some of 
them several times, and has found them well equipped and comfortable. 



MARITIME-PROYINCES HANDBOOK. 



NEW BRUNSWICK. 

The Province of New Brunswick is situated nearly in the centre of the 
North Temperate Zone, and is bounded by Maine and Quebec on the W., 
Quebec and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., the Gulf of St. Lawrence and 
the Northumberland Strait on the E., and Nova Scotia and the Bay of 
Fundy on the S. It is 140 M. long from E. to W., and 190 M. from N. to 
S., and contains 27,105 square miles. The direct coast-line (exclusive of 
indentations) is 410 M., which is nearly equally divided between the S. 
and E. shores, and is broken by many fine harbors. The Bay of Fundy 
on the S., and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., are of great size and com- 
mercial importance, — the former being 140 M. long by 30-50 M. wide; 
the latter being 90 M. long by 10 - 25 M. wide. The fisheries in the great 
bays and in the Gulf are of immense value, employing many thousand 
men, and attracting large American fleets. They have furnished suste- 
nance to the people of the maritime counties, and have been the occasion 
of developing a race of skilful mariners. During the past 50 years 6,000 
vessels have been built in this Province, valued at nearly $80,000,000. 
The lumber business is conducted on a vast scale on all the rivers, and 
the product amounts to $4,000,000 a year. 

The country is generally level, and is crossed by low ridges in the N. 
and W. There are numerous lakes, whose scenery is generally of a sombre 
and monotonous character. The interior is traversed by the rivers St. 
John, Eestigouche, Miramichi, Petitcodiac, Nepisiguit, and Richibucto, 
which, with their numerous tributaries, afford extensive facilities for boat- 
navigation. The river-fisheries of New Brunswick are renowned for their 
variety and richness, and attract many American sportsmen. 

There are 14,000,000 acres of arable land in the Province, a great por- 
tion of which has not yet been brought into cultivation. The intervales 
of the rivers contain 60,000 acres, and are very rich and prolific, being 
fertilized by annual inundations. The chief agricultural products are 
wheat, buckwheat, barley, oats, potatoes, butter, and cheese ; but farming 
operations are still carried on in an antiquated and unscientific manner. 

The climate is less inclement on the Bay of Fundy than farther inland. 
The mean temperature for the last ten years at St. John was, for the 
winter, 174-°; spring, 37^-'';- summer, 58°; autumn, 44|°. The thermom- 



U NEW EKUXSWICK. 

oter wnjo? botweou — 22" tuui S7' ftj; the extreme? marked during the 
past ten years. 

The pn?seut domain of New Brunswick was formerly occupied by two 
distiuct nations of Indians. The Micmacs wert^ an oiVshoot of the Algvni- 
quiu race, and inhabited all the sea-shore regions. They were jx>werful 
and hardy, and made daring boatmen and fishermen. The Milioete^ were 
fi\->m the HurvMi nation, and inhabited the St. John valley and the inland 
lorests. being skilful in hunting and all manner of woodcratt. They Avere 
less nnmervnis and warlike than the Micmacs. Both tribes had a simple 
and be^iutifnl theology, to which w:vs attached a multitude of quaint 
mythological legends. 

This region was included in the ancient domain of Acadie (or Acadia), 
which was granteti to the Sieur De Monts by King Henri IV. of France, 
in 160S. De Monts explored the St. John Kiver, and plsuited an epheraerr' 
colony on the St. Croix, in 10!O4. Fivm 1035 until 1645 the St. John Eire 
was the scene of the feudal wars between La Tour and Chamisay. Olivi 
Civmwell sent an expedition in 1654, which occupied the country: bi 
it was l^estored to Fr:mce by Charles 11. in 1670. Alter the war of 1689 
97, this region was apiin confinned to France, and its W. boundary wa 
kvated at the St. G^-»rge Kiver, W. of Penobscot Bay. Meantime tb 
shores of tlie Bay of Chaleur and the Gulf of St. Lawi-ence had been se 
tied by the French, between 1639 and 1672. The Xew-Englanders invad' 
the ProWuce in 1703, and in 1713 Acadia Avas ceded to England. 

The French limited the cession to Nova Scotia, and fortified the line c 
the ^lissigaash River, to pn.">tect the domains to the N. In 1755 a nav 
expedition from Boston took these forts, and also the post at St. Joh 
and in 175S the whole Province was occupied by Anglo-American trooj 
In 1763 it was surrendered to England by the Treaty of Versailles. 

The Americans made several attacks on northern Acadia during tl 
Eevolntionary "War, but were prevented fi\-^m holding the country by t 
British fleets at Halitax. At the close of the war many thousands 
American Loyalists retired from the United States to this and the adjoi 
ing countries. In 17S4 New Brunswick was organized as a Provinc 
having been previously dependent on Nova Scotia: and in 17SS the ca} 
tal was established at Fredericton. Immigration fa^m Great Britain no 
commenced, and the forests began to give way before the lumbermen. ] 
1S39 the Paivince called out its militia on the occasion of the bonndar 
disputes with Maine: and in 1S61 it was occupied with British tnx^ps o 
account of the possibilitA- of a war with the United States about the Trent 
affair. In 1S65 New BrnnsAvick refused, by a popular A-ote» to enter th 
Dominion of C^mada. but it accepted the plan the next year, and becam 
a part of the Dominion in 1S67. 

The population of New Brunswick was 74.176 in 1S24. 154,000 in 1S40. 
and 2S5,777 in 1S71. 



I 




29- Portland D. i. 

^ 30. Marsh Bridge F. 2, 

O 31- Suspension Bridge, ,,,..,,,.,,, .,.A, I, 

32. Reed's P«int, ,....,.....,,.. C 4, 

33. Negretowa P<3ij3it,.,,,,.,,.....,..,.A. 5. 



CARLETON. 

34. City Hall B. 2. 

35. Market B. 3. 

36. Martello Tower, , A. 3. 

37. Luaatic Asylum, ■ A. i. 

38. Chureh of thf Assuijjption, A. 3. 

39. St. Jude's ,.,..,.,,,,.,.,.,.. A. 4. 

40. St. George's, ,,,.,A.2 




HOTELS. 



/ictoria, 

3arnes's 

VaverlQy, .,. 
S.oyal, .,.,., 
international, 
i'ark 



-g-3- 
..D.3. 
.,D,3. 
,..D. 3- 
..D.3. 
..E, 3- 



Office, D. 3. 

Custom House, D. 3. 

Court House E. 3. 

City Hall, D. 3. 

Bank of N. B., D. 3. 

Mechanics' Institute E. 2. 

Y. M. C. A. E 3. 

Academy of Music D. 3. " 

Rink F. 2. 

Marine Hospital, D. 4. 

City Hospital, F. 2. 

Wiggins Asylum, D. 4. 

Cemetery , . .E. 3. 

King's Square, .E. 3. 

Queen's Square D. 4. 

Cathedral, E. 2, 3. 

Trinity Church, D- 3. 

St. Paul's , E. 2. 

St. John's, E. 2. 

St, Andrew's D. 3. 

iRtercolonial Station E. 2. 

E. & N. A. Station C. 3- 



ST. JOHN. Route 1. 15 



I St. John. 

Arrival from the Sea. — Soon after passing Negro Head, the steamer runs 
in by Partridge Island, the round and rocky guard of the harbor of St. John. Its 
precipitous sides are seamed with deep clefts and narrow chasms, and on the up- 
land are seen the Quarantine Hospital, the buildings of the steam fog-horn and the 
lighthouse, and the ruins of a cUff battery. On the 1. is the bold headland of 
Negrotown Pnint, crowned by dilapidated earthworks. The course now leads in 
by the Beacon-light (1. side), with the Martello Tower on Carleton Heights, and the 
high-placed St. Jude's Church on the 1. In front are the green slopes and barracks 
of the Military Grounds, beyond which are the populous hills of St. John. 

Hotels. — The * Victoria, corner of Duke and Germain Sts., is the best hotel in 
the Maritime Provinces. It is centrally located, and accommodates 300 guests ; 
terms, $ 3 a day. Barnes's Hotel, Prince William St., near Princess St ; the Waver- 
ley. King St., near King Square ($2 3, day) ; the Royal, 146 Prince William St ; the 
International, corner of Prince William and Duke Sts. The Park and the Conti- 
nental are comfortable hotels fronting on King Square, near which are several 
smaller houses. The American is a second-class hotel on lower King St. ; the Bay 
View is on Prince William St., near Reed's Point. 

Amusements. — Theatrical performances and other entertainments are fre- 
quently given at the Academy of Music, on Germain St., near Duke St. The 
Academy can accommodate 2,000 people. Lectures and concerts are given in the 
hall of the Mechanics' Institute, near the head of Germain St. Varieties and min- 
strels at Lee's Opera-House, on Dock St. 

Reading-Kooms. — The Young Men's Christian Association, en Charlotte 
St. , near King Square ; open from 9 a. m. until 10 P. m. The Mechanics' Institute, 
near the head of Germain St., has an extensive variety of British papers on file. 

Carriages. — For a course within the city, 30c. for one passenger, 10c. for each 
additional one. For each half-hour, 50c. If the river is crossed the passenger pays 
the toll, which is, for a double carriage, 15c. each way by ferry, 20c. by the bridge. 

Horse-cars run from Market Square through Dock and Mill Sts., to the ter- 
minus of the river steamboat-lines, at Indiantown (fare, 5c.). 

Hallways. — The European and North American Railway runs W. to Bangor 
in 206 M. , connecting there with the Maine Central and Eastern lines for Boston, 
449 M. from St. John. The same road also has a branch to Fredericton. The In- 
tercolonial Railway runs E. to Shediac, Truro, and Halifax (276 M.). 

Steamsliips. — The Temperley and other lines run steamships occasionally 
between St. John and Liverpool, or London. The steamship Linda leaves St. John 
every Friday evening for Boston, touching at Yarmouth, N. S. The International 
Steamship Company despatches one of their vessels every Monday, Wednesday, and 
Friday morning, at 8 o'clock, for Boston, touching at Eastport and Portland, and 
connecting with a steamer for St. Andrews and St. Stephen. A steamer leaves the 
Reed's Point Wharf, at 8 A.M., every Thursday and Saturday, for St. George, St. 
Andrews, and St. Stephen (calling at Beaver Harbor on Saturdays). The Empress 
crosses the Bay of Fundy to Digby and Annapolis, on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, 
and Saturday, at 8 a. m., connecting at Annapolis with the railway for Halifax. A 
steamer leaves the Reed's Point Wharf every Tuesday evening for Parrsboro', Wind- 
sor, and the ports on the Basin of Minas. 

St. John River Lines. — The David Weston, of the Union Line, leaves Indiantown 
on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 9 a. m., for Fredericton and the interme- 
diate landings. The Rothesay, of the Express Line, leaves Indiantown Monday, 
Wednesday, and Friday, at 9 a. M., for Fredericton and the intermediate landings. 
The May Queen leaves Indiantown on Wednesday and Saturday, at 8 a. m., for 
Gagetown and Grand Lake. The Star leaves Indiantown on Tuesday, Thursday, 
and Saturday, at 10 a. m., for Cole's Island and the Washademoak Lake. 

The Carleton ferry-steamers leave the foot of Princess St. every 15 minutes until 
9.30 P. M. Fare, 3c. ; for one-horse carriages, 9c, ; for two-horse carriages, 15c. 



16 Route 1. ST. JOHN. 

St, John, the chief city of the Province of New Brunswick and tlic 
commercial metropolis of the Bay of Fundy, occupies a commanding 
position at the mouth of the St. John River. From its favorable situation 
for the purposes of commerce it has been termed " the Liverpool of Amer- 
ica " (a claim, however, which Halifax stoutly combats, and which should 
be limited at least to " the Liverpool of Canada"). The city has 28,805 
inhabitants (census of 1871), and the contiguous suburb of Portland has 
12,520 more. The ridge upon which it is built is composed of solid rock, 
through which streets have been cut at great expense; and the plan of the 
streets is regular, including a succession of rectangular squares. The 
general appearance of the city is, however, somewhat uneven and dingy, 
owing to the difference in the size of the buildings and to the absence of 
paint. The harbor is good, and is kept free from ice by the high tides of 
the Bay of Fundy and the sweeping current of the St. John River. It is 
usually well filled with shipping, and the shores are lined with wharves 
and mills. The hill-country in the vicinity is baiTcn but picturesque, and 
affords a variety of pleasing marine views. Since 1853 the Avater supply 
of the city has been drawn from Little River, and the works have a daily 
capacity of 5,500,000 gallons. The fire depai'tment has 3 steam-engines, 
but is seldom called into service. There are 26 churches in St. John and 
Portland, of which the Baptists claim precedence in point of numbers. 
There are 4 banks, and 4 daily and several weekly newspapers. 

King Street is the main business street of the city, and runs from the 
harbor across the peninsula to Courtenay Bay. All the principal shops 
are on this street, between the harbor and King Square, and along Prince 
William St., which intersects it near the water. At the foot of the street 
is the Market Slip, into which the light packet-boats and produce-vessels 
from the adjacent rural counties bring wood and provisions for the use 
of the city. At low tide, these vessels are, for the most part, left to 
hold themselves up on the muddy flats. At this point landed the weary 
and self-exiled American Loyalists, in. 1783, and founded the city of St. 
John. The rather dreary breadth of King St. is occupied in its lower 
part by wagoners and unemployed workmen. From this point the street 
ascends a steep hill, passing the telegraph-office, police-court, and several 
banks and hotels. King Square is entered through a pretentious " tri- 
umphal arch" of wood, which was erected in honor of Prince Arthur's 
visit, and has since been utilized for sustaining the fire-alarm bell. The 
Square is an open space of about 3 acres in area, studded with young 
trees, and adorned in the centre with a small fountain. To the E. is the 
County Market, a naiTow street filled with rude stalls. A few steps N. W. 
of the Square (on Charlotte St.) is the new and handsome building of the 
Young Men's Christian Association, containing a large hall, gymnasium, 
parlors, and class-rooms. The library and reading-room are open daily 
(except Sunday) from 9 A. M. to 10 p. m., and strangers are welcomed. 



ST. JOHN. Route 1. 17 

The building cost $38,000, and was dedicated in 1872, but subsequently 
gave signs of instability, and has since been strengthened at considerable 
expense. The County Court House and Jail are at the S. E. corner of 
King Square, and are antiquated and homely stone buildings. To the E. 
is the Old Burying- Ground, containing the graves of the pioneers of the 
Province, with epitaphs in many cases quaint and interesting. Trinity 
Church is on Germain St., near Princess St., and is a large and plain 
wooden building with a spire and clock-tower. It was built in 1788, and 
has had subsequent additions and enlargements. The roof is sustained 
by two lines of wooden columns, of the Doric order ; and the walls are 
adorned with mural tablets and with the Royal Arms which formerly be- 
longed to Trinity Church in New York, and was brought here by the Loy- 
alists in 1783, having been rescued from the New York church during the 
great fire of 1776. Beyond Trinity is St. Andrew's Church (Presbyterian), 
with its quaint interior, by the side of which rise the lofty walls of the 
Victoria Hotel. By ascending the next street (Queen) to the 1., Queen 
Square is reached, — a carelessly kept park suiTounded with dwelling- 
houses. A short distance to the E., on St. James Street, is the Wiggins 
Male Orphan Institution, a new building in Gothic architecture, of red 
and gray sandstone. It is the most elegant and symmetrical structure 
of its size in the Province, and cost over $100,000, but is only adequate 
to the accommodation of 30 orphans. The Marine Hospital is in this 
vicinity. 

A short walk out Sydney St. or Caermarthen St. leads to the Military 
Grounds, on the extreme S. point of the peninsula. Here is a spacious 
parade-ground, which is now used only by the cricket and base-ball 
clubs, and barracks for the accommodation of 2,000 soldiers. These 
grounds were formerly occupied by large detachments from the British 
army, whose officers were a desired acquisition to the society of the city, 
while the military bands amused the people by concerts on Queen Square. 
From the Military Grounds is obtained a series of views of the harbor and 
bay, with Partridge Island near at hand in the foreground. 

Prince William Street runs S. from Market Square to Reed's Point, and 
is one of the chief thoroughfares of the city, containing several hotels and 
some of the largest shops. Where it crosses Princess St., the Carleton 
ferry is seen to the r., and on the 1. is Ritchie's Building, the headquarters 
of lawyers and Freemasons. At the S. W. corner of Prince William and 
Princess Sts. is the new *Post-Ofl5ce, an elegant building of gray sand- 
stone, ornamented with columns of the polished red granite of St. George. 
It is surmounted by a clock tower 100 ft. high. The next building, with 
a classic front and one wing, is occupied by the Bank of New Brunswick, 
beyond which is the Custom House, a plain and massive stone building, 
which dates from 1842. It is 250 ft. long, and contains several of the 
provincio-national offices, and a storm-signal station which receives warn- 



18 Route 1. ST. JOHN. 

ings from " Old Probabilities " at Washington. The street ends at Reed's 
Point, the headquarters of several lines of coasting-steamers, whence may- 
be seen the Breakwater, W. of the Military Grounds. 

At the N. end of Germain St. is the old Stone Church, a sanctuary of 
the Episcopalians under the invocation of St. John. Its square stone 
tower is visible for a long distance, on account of the elevation of the site 
on which it stands. Nearly opposite is the brick Calvin Church (Presby- 
terian) ; and in the same vicinity is the classic wooden front of the Me- 
chanics' Institute, which has a large hall, and is the domicile of one of the 
city schools. The reading-room is supplied with Canadian and British 
newspapers, and the library contains about 7,000 volumes (open from 2^ to 
5 o'clock). From this point roads descend to the water-side and to the 
railway station in the Valley. 

The Roman Catholic * Cathedral is situated on "Waterloo St., and is 
the largest church in the Province. It is constructed of marble and sand- 
stone, in pointed architecture, and has a tall and graceful stone spire. 
The interior is in a style of the severest simplicity, the Gothic arches of 
the clere-story being supported on plain and massive piers. The windows 
are of stained glass, and are very brilliant and rich. The chancel and 
transept windows are large and of fine design ; a rose window is placed over 
the organ-loft; and the side windows represent Saints Bernard, Dominic, 
Ambrose, Jerome, Mark, Matthew, Andrew, Benedict, Francis, John, 
Luke, Augustine, and Gregory. The building is 200 ft. long, and 110 ft. 
wide at the transepts. The Bishop'' s Palace is the fine sandstone building 
towards Cliff St., beyond which is the extensive building of the Orphan 
Asylum, fronting on Cliff St. On the other side of the Cathedral is the" 
plain brick building of the Nunnery. The visitor should notice, over the 
Cathedral portal adjacent to the Nunnery, the great marble bas-relief of 
the Last Supper (after Leonardo Da Vinci's painting at Milan). 

From this point Waterloo St. descends to the Marsh Bridge, at the head 
of Courtenay Bay. By ascending CliflT St. for a short distance, a point 
may be reached from which are seen the Valley, with its churches and 
streets, and the embowered villas on Portland Heights, over which Eeed's 
Castle is prominent. 

The General Public Hospital is situated on a bold rocky knoll which 
overlooks the Marsh Valley, and is entered from Waterloo St. It consists 
of a large brick building with one wing, and accommodates 80 patients. 
The structure pertains to the city, and was erected in 1865 at a cost of 
$ 54,000. Directly below the precipitous sides of the knoll on which it is 
built is the broad Marsh, covered with houses, and extending on the r. 
to Courtenay Bay. The geologists entertain a plausible theory that in 
remote ages the St. John Eiver flowed down this valley from the Kenne- 
becasis to the sea, until finally the present channel through the Narrows 
was opened by some convulsion of nature. 



ST. JOHN. Route 1, 19 

That suburb which is known as the Valley lies between the rocky hills 
of the city proper and the line of the Portland Heights. It is reached 
from King Square by Charlotte and Cobourg Sts., and contains the tracks 
and station of the Intercolonial Railway. The most prominent object in 
the Valley is St. PauVs Church (Episcop-al), a graceful wooden edifice with 
transepts, a clere-storj^ and a tall spire. The windows are of stained glass. 
The brick church of St. Stephen and the white Zion Church (Reformed 
Episcopal) are also situated in the Vallej', and the road to Lily Lake di- 
verges to the r. from the latter. Farther to the E., on the City Road, is 
the Skating EinJc, a round Avooden building, 160 ft, in diameter, covered 
with a domed roof This is the favorite winter resort of the aristocracy 
of St. John, and strangers can gain admission only by introduction from 
one of the directors. 

The site of St. John was the Menagwes of ancient Micmac tradition, where the 
divine Giooscap once had his home. Hence, during his absence, his attendants 
were carried away by a powerful evil magician, who fled with them to Grand Manan, 
Cape Breton, and Newfoundland, where he was pursued by Giooscap, who rode 
much of the way on the backs of whales which he called in from the deep sea. 
Passing through Cape Breton, he at length reached the dark Newfoundland shores, 
where he assumed such a stature that the clouds rolled about his head. The evil- 
doing wizard was soon found and put to death and the servants of Giooscap were 
set free. 

The site of St. John was discovered by Champlain and De Monts, on St. John's 
Day (June 24), 1604, but was not occupied for 30 years after. 

Claude de la Tour, a Huguenot noble, was one of the earhest of the French adven- 
turers in this region, and received a grant of all Acadia from Charles I. of England. 
After his repulse and humihation (see Route 25), the French government divided 
Acadia into three provinces, placing there as governors, M. Denys, Razilly, and the 
young and chivalrous Charles de St. Estienne, Lord of La Tour (son of Claude), 
Denys contented himself with the ocean-fisheries from Canso and Cape Breton. 
Razilly soon died, leaying his domain to his kinsman Charles de Menou,Sieurd'Aul- 
nay Chamisay, who was also related to Cardinal Richelieu. D'Aulnay and La Tour 
began to quarrel about the boundaries of their jurisdictions, and the former em- 
ployed a powerful influence at the Court of France to aid his cause. Louis XIIL 
finally ordered him to carry La Tour to France, in chains, and open war ensued 
between these patrician adventurers. La Tour had erected a fort at St. John in 
1634, whence he carried on a lucrative fur-trade with the Indians. In 1648 this 
stronghold was attacked by D'Aulnay with six vessels, but La Tour escaped on the 
ship Clement, leaving his garrison to hold the works. He entered Boston Harbor 
with 140 Huguenots of La RocheUe, and sought aid from Massachusetts against the 
Catholic forces which were besieging him. The austere Puritans referred to the 
Bible to see if they could find any precedent for such action, but found no certain 
response from that oracle. "On the one hand, it was said that the speech of the 
Prophet to Jehoshaphat, in 2d Chronicles xix. 2, and the portion of Solomon's 
Proverbs contained in chap, xxvi, 17th verse, not only discharged them from any 
obligation, but actually forbade them to assist La Tour ; while, on the other hand, 
it was agreed that it was as lawful for them to give him succor as it was for Joshua 
to aid the Gibeonites against the rest of the Canaanites, or for Jehoshaphat to aid 
Jehoram against Moab, in which expedition Elishawas present, and did not reprove 
the King of Judah." But when they had assured themselves that it would be 
allowable for them to aid the distressed nobleman, they sent such a fleet that D'Aul- 
nay's forces were quickly scattered, and the siege was raised. Two years later, 
while La Tour was absent, D'Aulnay again attacked the fort, but was handsomely 
repulsed (with a loss of 33 men) by the little garrison, headed by Madame La Tour. 
Some months later he returned, and opened a regular siege on the landward side 
(the fort was in Carleton, near Navy Island). After three days of fighting a treach- 
erous Swiss senti-y admitted the enemy into the works ; and even then INIadame La 
Tour led her troops so gallantly that the victor gave her her own terms. These 



20 Route 1. ST. JOHN. 

terms, however, were shamefully violated, and the garrison was massacred before 
her face. Three weeks afterward, she died of a broken heart. La Tour came back 
to St. John some jears later, and found that D'Aulnay was dead, whereupon he 
effectually recaptured his old domain by marrying the widow of the conqueror 
(1653). D'Aulnay died in 1650, having spent 800,000 livres in Acadia, and built 5 
fortresses, 2 seminaries, and several churches. He had several sons, all of whom 
entered the French army, and were slain in the service. 

In 1690 a sharp engagement took place in St. John harbor, between the French 
frigate Union and two English vessels. The former had entered the harbor bearing 
the Chevalier de Villebon, and was taken at a disadvantage. After a severe cannon- 
ade, the Unio7i hauled down her colors. Villebon soon descended the river with 
a party of Indians and attacked the ships, but without success. In 1696, while the 
Chevaher de Yillebon governed Acadia from the upper St. John and hurled de- 
structive Indian bands upon New England, Massachusetts sent three men-of-war to 
blockade the mouth of the river and cut off his supplies. They were soon attacked 
by D'Iberville's French frigates, and made a desperate resistance. But the New- 
port, 24, was unable to withstand the heavy fire of the Profond, and soon lay dis- 
masted and helpless. After her surrender the other American vessels escaped 
under cover of a thick fog. A new fleet from Boston soon afterwards overhauled 
the French frigates, cruising between Mount Desert and St. John, and captured 
the Profond, with M. de Villebon, the Governor of Acadia, on board. In 1701 the 
fort of St. John was dismantled by Brouillan ; but in 1708 it was rebuilt, and had 
4 bastions and 24 pieces of artillery. 

In July, 1749, H. B. M. sloop-of-war Albany entered the harbor and drove away 
the French troops, lowering also the standard of France. The frigates Hound and 
York had a skirmish with the French here in 1750, and were ordered out of the 
port by Boishebert, the commandant of the fort. In 1755, four British war -vessels 
entered the harbor, and the French garrison demolished the fort, blew up the mag- 
azine, and retreated into the country. In 1758 Fort La Tour was still garrisoned 
by French soldiers, but, after a short siege by an Anglo-American force, the post 
was surrendered at discretion. Two years later, the place was visited by James 
Simonds, an adventurous New-Englander, who was, however, soon driven away by 
the Indians, " Catholics and allies of France.'- In 1764 he returned with a party 
of Massachusetts fishermen, and settled on the present site of the city, erecting de- 
fensive works on Portland Heights, under the name of Fort Howe. In 1775 a naval 
expedition of Americans from Machias entered the harbor and destroyed the old 
French fortifications (then called Fort Frederick), completing their work by plun- 
dering and bombarding the village. May 18, 1783, a British fleet arrived in the 
port bringing 5,000 of the self-styled "United Empire Loyalists," Americans who 
were loyal to King George and could not or would not remain in the new Republic 
of the United States. From this day may be dated the growth of the city of St. 
John. 

New Brunswick was set off from Nova Scotia as a separate Province the next 
year, and in 1786 its first Legislative Assem.bly was convened here. In 1787 
Trinity Church was founded ; in 1788 harbor-lights were estabhshed on Partridge 
Island, and in 1799 the Royal Gazette was started. In 1837 one third of the com- 
mercial portion of the city was burned, involving a loss of £250,000. During the 
boundary dispute with the State of Maine (1839-42) the citizens were all enrolled 
and drilled in military exercises, in preparation for a war on the borders. Large 
fortunes were made by the merchants during the Crimean war, when the British 
timber-market, which had depended largely on the Baltic ports for its supply, was 
by their closing forced to draw heavily on the American Provinces. The last his- 
toric event at St. John was its occupation, in the winter of 1861, by several of the 
choicest regiments of the British army, among which were the Grenadier Guards, 
the Scotch Fusiliers, and other elite corps. After the peaceful solution of the Trent 
afiair this formidable garrison was removed, and the city has since been left to 
prosper in the arts of peace and industry. 

" Here is picturesque St. John, with its couple of centuries of history and tradi- 
tion, its commerces, its enterprise felt all along the coast and through the settle- 
ments of the territory to the northeast, with its no doubt charming society and 
sohd English culture ; and the summer tourist, in an idle mood regarding it for 
a day, says it is naught." (Wabn£r"s Baddeck.) 



ST. JOHN. 



Fcoute 1. 21 



St. Jolm. 1647. 



" To the winds give our banner! 

Bear homeward again ! " 
Cried the Lord of Acadia, 

Cried Charles of Estienne ; 
From the prow of his shallop 

He gazed, as the sun, 
From its bed in the ocean. 

Streamed up the St. John. 

Oer the blue western waters 

That shallop had passed, 
"Where the mists of Penobscot 

Clung damp on her mast. 
St. Savior had looked 

On the heretic sail, 
As the songs of the Huguenot 

Rose on the gale. 

The pale, ghostly fathers 

Remembered her well. 
And had cursed her while passing. 

With taper and bell, 
But the men of Monhegan, 

Of Papists abhorred. 
Had welcomed and feasted 

The heretic Lord. 

They had loaded his shallop 

"With dun-fish and ball, 
"With stores for his larder, 

And steel for his wall. _ 
Pemequid, from her bastions 

And turrets of stone. 
Had welcomed his coming 

With banner and gun. 

And the prayers of the elders 

Had followed his way, 
As homeward he glided 

Down Pentecost Bay. 
O, well sped La Tour ! 

For, in peril and pain, 
His lady kept watch 

For his coming again. 

Oer the Isle of the Pheasant 

The morning sun shone. 
On the plane-trees which shaded 

The shores of St. John. 
" Now why from yon battlements 

Speaks not my love? 
Why waves there no banner 

My fortress above ? " 

Dark and wild, from his deck 

St. Estienne gazed about. 
On flre-wasted dwellings, 

And silent redoubt ; 
From the low shattered walls 

Which the flame had o'errun, 
There floated no banner. 

There thundered no gun. 

But beneath the low arch 

Of its doorway there stood 
A pale priest of Rome, 

In his cloak and his hood. 
With the bound of a lion 

La Tour sprang to land. 
On the throat of the Papist 

He fastened his hand. 

" Speak, son of the Woman 

Of scarlet and sin ! 
What wolf has been prowling 

My castle within ? " 
From the grasp of the soldier 

The Jesuit broke. 
Half in scorn, half in sorrow, 

He smiled as he spoke : 



" No wolf, Lord of Estienne, 

Has ravaged thy hall. 
But thy red-handed rival, 

With fire, steel, and balll 
On an errand of mercy 

I hitherward came, 
WhUe the walls of thy castle 

Yet spouted with flame. 

" Pentagoet's dark vessels 

Were moored in tlie bay. 
Grim sea-lions, roaring 

Aloud for their prey ! " 
" But what of my lady ? " 

Cried Charles of Estienne. 
" On the shot-crumbled turret 

Thy lady was seen : 

" Half veiled in the smoke-cloud, 

Her hand grasped thy pennon, 
While her dark tresses swayed 

In the hot breath of cannon 1 
But woe to the heretic. 

Evermore woe ! 
When the son of the church 

And the cross is his foel 

"In the track of the shell, 

In the path of the ball, 
Pentagoet swept over 

The breach of the wall! 
Steel to steel, gun to gun. 

One moment, — and then 
Alone stood the victor. 

Alone with his men! 

" Of its sturdy defenders, 

Thy lady alone 
Saw the cross-blazoned banner 

Float over St. John." 
" Let the dastard look to it I " 

Cried fiery Estienne, 
" Were DAulnay King Louis, 

I d free her again ! " 

" Alas for thy lady ! 

No service from thee 
Is needed by her 

Whom the Lord hath set free : 
Nine days, in stem silence. 

Her thraldom she bore. 
But the tenth morning came. 

And Death opened her door ! " 

As if suddenly smitten. 

La Tour staggered back ; 
His hand grasped his sword-hilt, 

His forehead grew black. 
He sprang on the deck 

Of his shallop again. 
" We cruise now for vengeance I 

Give way ! " cried Estienne. 

" Massachusetts shall hear 

Of the Huguenot s wrong. 
And from island and creekside 

Her fishers shall throng ! 
Pentagoet shall rue 

What his Papists have done. 
When his palisades echo 

The Puritans gun ! " 

O, the loveliest of heavens 

Hung tenderly o er him. 
There were waves in the sunshine, 

And green isles before him : 
But a pale hand was beckoning 

The Huguenot on : 
And in blackness and ashes 

Behind was St. John ! 

John G. Whittiek. 



22 Route 2. THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. 

2. The Environs of St. John. 

* Lily Lake is about 1 M. from King Square, and is reached by cross- 
ing the Valley and ascending Portland Heights. The road which turns to 
the r. from the white (Zion) church conducts past several villas and rural 
estates. From its end a broad path diverges to the r., leading in a few 
minutes to the lake, a beautiful sheet of Avater suiTOunded by high rocky- 
banks. The envix'ons are thickly studded with clumps of arbor-vitse and 
evergreens, among which run devious rambles and pathways. No houses 
or other signs of civilization are seen on the shores, and the citizens wish 
to preserve this district in its primitive beauty by converting it into a pub- 
lic park. The water is of rare purity, and was used for several years to 
supply the city, being pumped up by expensive machinery. This is a 
favorite place for skating early in the season, and at that time presents a 
scene of great activity and interest. A pleasant pathway leads on one 
side to the Lihj Lal'e Falls, which are attractive in time of high water. 

The Marsh Boad is the favorite drive for the citizens of St. John, and 
presents a busy scene on pleasant Sundays and during the season of sleigh- 
ing. It is broad, firm, and level, and follows the (supposed) ancient bed 
of the St. John River. At Ih M. from the city the Bural Cemetery is 
reached (only lot-owners are admitted on Sunday). This is a pleasant 
ground occupying about 12 acres along a cluster of high, rocky knoUs, 
audits roads curve gracefully through an almost unbroken forest of old 
(but small) evergi-eeu trees. The chief point of interest is along Ocean 
Avenue, where beneath uniform monuments are buried a large number 
of sailors. Ij M. beyond the Cemetery the Marsh Road passes the Three- 
^lile House and Jfooscpath Park, a half-mile course which is much u?cd 
for horse-racing, especially during the month of August. 3 - 4 il. farther 
on (with the Intercolonial Railway always near at hand) the road reaches 
the Torryhurn House, near the usual course for boat-racing on the broad 
Kennebecasis Bay. The course of this estuary is now followed for 2 M., 
with the high cliff called the Minister'' s Face on the farther shore. Pass- 
ing several country-seats, the tourist arrives at Rothesay, prettily situated 
on the Kennebecasis. This village is a favorite place of summer i-esidence 
for families from the city, and has numerous yillas and picnic grounds. 
The facilities for boating and bathing are good. Near the railway station 
is Rothesay Hall, a summer hotel, accommodating 30-40 guests ($8-10 
a week). There are pleasant views from this point, including the broad 
and lake-like Kennebecasis for many miles, the palisades of the Minister's 
Face, and the hamlet of Moss Glen. 

Loch Lomond is about 11 M. N. E. of St. John, and is a favorite resort 
for its citizens. Many people go out to the lake on Saturdaj^ and remain 
there until IMonday morning. The road crosses the Marsh Bridge and 
passes near the Silver Falls, a pretty cascade on Little River (whence the 



THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. Route 2. 23 

city draws its water supply). There are two small hotels near Loch 
Lomond, of which Bunker's is at the lower end and DalzelFs is 3-4 M. be- 
yond, or near the head of the First Lake. These waters are much re- 
sorted to by trout-fishers, and the white trout that are found nearDalzell's 
Lake House are considered a delicacy. Boats and tackle are furnished 
at the hotels ; and there is good shooting in the vicinity. The shores con- 
sist, for the most part, of low rolling hills, covered with forests. The First 
Lake is 4 x ^ M. in area, and is connected by a short stream with the 
Second Lake, which is nearly 2 M. long, and very narrow. The Third 
Lake is smaller than either of the others. 

" An elevated ridge of hard-wood land, over which the road passes near the nar- 
rowest part^ afforded me from its summit a view of the lower lake, which would not 
suffer in comparison with many either of our English or our Scottish lakes. Its 
surface was calm and still ; beyond it rose a wooded ridge of rounded hills, purpled 
by the broad-leaved trees which covered them, and terminated at the foot of the 
lake by a lofty, so-called Lion's Back, lower considerably than Arthur's Seat, yet 
still a miniature Ben Lomond." — Prop. Johnston. 

Ben Lomond, Jones, Taylor's, and other so-called lakes (being large forest-ponds) 
are situated in this neighborhood, and afford better fishing facilities than the much- 
visited waters of Loch Lomond. Both white and speckled trout are caught in great 
numbers from rafts or floats on these ponds ; and Bunker's or Dalzell's affords a 
favorable headquarters for the sportsman, where also more particular information 
may be obtained. 

The Penitentiary is a granite building 120 ft. long, situated in an in- 
walled tract of 18 acres, on the farther side of Courtenay Bay, The Poor 
Hovse is a spacious brick building in the same neighborhood. The road 
that passes these institutions is prolonged as far as MispecTc, traversing a 
diversified country, and at times affording pretty views of the Bay of 
Fundy. Mispeck is a small marine hamlet, 10 M. from St. John. 

4 M. N. of the city is the estate of the Highland Park Company, an asso- 
ciation of citizens who have united for the purpose of securing rural homes 
in a beautiful and picturesque region. There are three lakes on the tract 
(which includes 500 acres), the chief of which is Howe's Lake, a small but 
pretty forest-pond. 

The * Suspension Bridge is about 1 J M. from King Square, and most 
of the distance may be traversed by horse-cars, passing through the town 
of Portland and under Fort Howe Hill (whence a good view of the city is 
afforded). The bridge crosses the rocky gorge into which the wide waters 
of the St. John River are compressed, at a height of nearly 100 ft. above 
low water. The rush of the upward tide, and the falls which become 
visible at low tide, fill the stream with seething eddies and whirls and 
render navigation impossible. At a certain stage of the flood-tide, and for 
a few minutes only, this gorge may be passed by vessels and rafts. 

The St. John River is over 450 M. long, and, with its many tributaries, drains a 
vast extent of country. Yet, at this point, where its waters are emptied into the 
harbor, the outlet of the river is narrowed to a channel which is in places but 450 
ft. wide, with cliffs of limestone 100 ft. high hemming it in on either side. The stream 
rushes through this narrow pass with great impetuosity, and its course is further 
disturbed by several rocky islets. The tides in the harbor rise to a height of 22-26 



24 Route 2. THE EXA'IKONS OF ST. JOHN. 

ft. , and rush up the riyer with such force as to overflow the fells and produce level 
water at flood-tide. The bridge was built in 1852 by an American engineer, and cost 
S SO.lXXX It is t>iO ft. long and contains 570 M. of wire, supported on 4 slender but 
solid towers. One-horse carriages pay 13c. toll ; 2-horse carriages, 20c. 

Over the head of the bridge, on the Carleton shore, is the Provincial 
Lunatic Asylum, an extensive brick buildhig with long wings, situated in 
pleasant grounds. Its elevated situation renders it a prominent object in 
approaching the city from almost any direction. The building was erected 
in 1S48, and accommodates 200 patients. From this vicinity, or from the 
bridge, are seen the busy manufacturing villages about Indiantown and 
Point Pleasant, most of which are engaged in the lumber business. 

On the summit of the highest hill in Carleton is a venerable and pic- 
turesque stone tower, which gives an antique and feudal air to the land- 
scape. It is known as the Martello Tower, and was built for a harbor- 
defence at the time when this peculiar kind of fortification was favored 
by the British War Otfice. Many of these works may be seen along the 
shores of the British Isles, but they are now used (if used at all) only as 
coast-guard stations. The tower in Carleton is under the charge of a sub- 
officer, and near by are seen the remains of a hill-battery, with a few old 
guns still in position. The *view from this point is broad and beautiful, 
including St. John, with the Victoria Hotel and the Cathedral most prom- 
inent, Portland and the Fort Howe Hill, the wharves of Carleton and its 
pretty churches, the harbor and shipping, the broad Bay of Fundy, ex- 
tending to the horizon, and in the S. the blue shores of Nova Scotia (the 
Korth Mt.), with the deep gap at the entrance to the Annapolis Basin, 
called the Digby Gut. 

The streets of Carleton are as yet in a transition state, and do not invite 
a long sojourn. On the hill near the ^Martello Tower is the tall and grace- 
ful Church of the Assumption, with pleasant grounds, in which is the 
fine building of the presbytery. Below this point is the Convent of St. 
Vincent, S. of which is seen the spire of St. Jude's Episcopal Church. 

The Fern L-edges are about 1 M. from Carleton, on the shore, and are much 
visited by geologists. They consist of an erratic fragment of the Old Red Sandstone 
epoch, and are covered with sea -weed and limpets. On clearing away the weeds and 
breaking the rock, the most beautiful impressions of ferns and other cryptogamoua 
plants are found. 

The Mahogany i Road affords a fine drive along the Bay shore, with a 
succession of broad marine views. It is gained by crossing the Suspen- 
sion Bridge and passing the Insane Asylum. About 4 M. from the city is 
the Four-Mile House, a favorite objective point for drives. The road is 
often followed as far as Spruce Lake, a fine sheet of water 5 M. long, and 
situated about 7 'M- from St. John. Perch are found here in great num- 
bers, but the facilities for fishing are not good. The water supply of the 
suburb of Carleton is drawn from this lake. 

1 Mahogany, a popular adaptation of the Indian word JIanaicago/iish, applied to the 
neighboring Day. 



CAMPOBELLO. Route 3. 25 



3. St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. — Passamaquoddy 

Bay. 

The commodious vessels of the International Steamship Company leave the Reed's 
Point Wharf, at St. John, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 8 A. m., and 
reach Eastport (60 M. distant) a little after noon. A connection is made there with 
the light steamboat Belle Broivn, which ascends Passamaquoddy Bay and the St. 
Croix River to St. Andrews and St. Stephen. 

Travellers who wish to gain a thorough idea of the quaintly picturesque scenery 
of Passamaquoddy Bay would do well to go to St. Stephen by Route 3 and return 
to St. John by Route 5, or vice versa. Except during very stormy weather the 
■waters of Passamaquoddy Bay are quiet and without much swell. 

After leaving St. John, the steamer runs S. W. into the Bay of Fundy, 
and soon passes Split Book, and stretches across to Point Lepreau. The 
peculiarities of the coast, which is always visible (in clear weather) on the 
N., are spoken of in Eoute 5, and are thus epitomized by Mr. Warner : 
" A pretty bay now and then, a rocky cove with scant foliage, a light- 
house, a rude cabin, a level land, monotonous and without noble forests, — 
this was New Brunswick as we coasted along it under the most favorable 
circumstances." 

After passing the iron-bound islets called the Wolves (where the New 
England Avas wrecked in 1872), the steamer runs in towards the West 
Isles, whose knob-like hills rise boldly from the blue waters. Sometimes 
she meets, in these outer passages, great fleets of fishing-boats, either 
drifting over schools of fish, or, with their white and red sails stretched, 
pursuing their prey. If such a meeting occurs during one of the heavy 
fogs which so often visit this coast, a wonderfully weird effect is caused 
by the sudden emergence and disappearance of the boats in the dense 
white clouds. 

Soon after passing the White Horse islet, the steamer enters the Eastern 
Passage, and runs to the S. W. into Friar's Eoad. On the r. is Deer 
Isle, a rugged island, 7 M. long by 3 M. Avide, Avith a poor soil and no 
good harbors. There are about 1,000 inhabitants on this island, and it is 
surrounded by an archipelago of isolated rocky peaks. The shores attain 
an elevation of 300 ft., and from some of the higher hills are gained beau- 
tiful panoramic views of the Passamaquoddy Bay, on one side, and the 
Bay of Fundy, on the other. 

Campobello Island lies on the left side of the course, with bold and 
rocky shores. It is 8 M. long by 3 M. Avide, and contains numerous 
profitable farms. On its N. point is a lighthouse, below which is the 
entrance to the fine harbor of Welchpool, Avhere there is a pretty marine 
village. Wilson's Beach is a populous fishing-settlement on the S. shore; 
and the island contains over 1,000 inhabitants. The surrounding waters 
are rich in fisheries, especially of herring and haddock, Avhich are fol- 
lowed by the island flotillas; and the hills are said to yield copper, lead, 
and plaster. The proximity of the lower shores to the American towns 
2 



2G Route 3. EASTPORT. 

of Lubec and Eastport affords favorable opportunities for smuggling, 
which was formerly practised to a considerable extent. The island is 
frequently visited by summer tourists, on account of the fine marine 
scenery on its ocean front and for the sport afibrded by the deep-sea 
fishing. Some years ago there -was much talk of erecting a first-class 
hotel on the east shore, but the project now lies in abeyance. The view 
from the abrupt heights of Brucler's Hill embraces a wide expanse of 
blue waters, studded with an archipelago of islets. On the W. shore is 
the singular group of rocks known as the Fnar's Face, which has been 
a favorite target for marine artillerj^ 

The earliest settlement on the Bay was established about 1770, by the Campo- 
bello Company, and was located at Harbor de Lute, on Campobello Island. It was 
named Warrington, but the Welchpool settlement has long since surpassed it. The 
island was for some time the property of Capt. Owen, of the Royal Nary, to whom 
the residents paid tenants' dues. At certain stages of the tide, Eastport can only 
be approached by passing around Campobello, concerning which Mr. Warner in- 
dulges in the following pleasantry : " The possession by the British of the island of 
Campobello is an insufferable menace and impertinence. I write with a full knowl- 
edge of what war is. We ought to instantly dislodge the British from Campobello. 
It entirely shuts up and commands our harbor, — one of our chief Eastern har- 
bors and war stations, where we keep a flag and cannon and some soldiers, and 
where the customs officers look out for smuggling. There is no way to get into our 
own harbor, except in favorable circumstances of the tide, without begging the 
courtesy of a passage through British waters. Why is England permitted to stretch 
along down our coast in this straggling and inquisitire manner ? She might almost 
as well own Long Island. It was impossible to prevent our cheeks mantling with 
shame as we thought of this, and saw ourselves, free American citizens, landlocked 
by alien soil in our own harbor. We ought to have war, if war is necessary to pos- 
sess Campobello and Deer Islands, or else we ought to give the British Eastport. I 
am not sure but the latter would be the better course." 

Eastport {*Passamaquoddij House, $2.50 a day; Tutik's Hotel, $2) is 
an American border-town, on the coast of IMaine, and has 3,738 inhabi- 
tants and 8 churches. It is built on the slope of a hill at the E. end of 
Moose Island, in Passamaquoddy Bay, and is engaged in the fisheries and 
the coasting-trade. Over the village are the ramparts of Fort Sullivan, 
a garrisoned post of the United States, commanding the harbor with its 
artiller}'. Eastport is much visited in summer for the sake of the salt- 
water fishing and the unique marine scenery in the vicinity, and has sev- 
eral reputable boarding-houses. It is connected with the mainland by a 
bridge, over which lies the road to the Indian village. Eastport is the 
most convenient point from which to reach Campobello, Grand ]\Ianan 
(see Route 4), and the adjacent islands. A steam-feny runs hence in 3 M. 
to Lubec {Lubec House, Cobscooh Hotel), a picturesque marine village to- 
wards Quoddy Head, with advantages for summer residents. This pleasant 
little place is decaying slowly, having lost over 400 inhabitants between 
1860 and 1870. The present population is a little over 2,000. Lubec is 
1 M. farther E. than Eastport, and is therefore the easternmost town of 
the United States. The purple cliffs of Grand Manan are seen from 
Quoddy Head. 



EASTPORT. Routes. 27 

In 1684 the Passamaquoddy islands -n-ere granted by the King of France to Jean 
Sarreau de St. Aubin. In the summer of 1704 the few French settlers about Passa- 
maquoddy Bay were plundered by an expedition under Col. Church, consisting of 
600 Massachusetts soldiers, escorted by the men-of-war Jersey, 48, and Gosport, 32. 
They ascended the St. Croix as far as the head of navigation, then returned and 
crossed the bay to ravage the Minas settlements. They visited Moose Island and 
the adjacent main, and carried off all the settlers as prisoners. Eighteen years later 
a Boston ship was captured by the Indians among these islands, but was retaken by 
its crew when a fair wind arose. In 1744 Massachusetts declared war against the 
Indians on this bay and on the St. John River ; and in 1760 the tribes sued for 
peace, sending hostages to Boston. In 1734 Gov. Belcher (of Mass.) visited the 
bay, and in 1750 and 1762 its shores and islands were regularly surveyed. 

During the War of the Revolution the Passamaquoddy Indians were loyal to 
the United States, and declined all offers from the British agents. The boundary 
question began to assume great importance after the close of the war. The treaty 
stipulated that the St. Croix River should form the frontier ; but Massachusetts, 
supported by the Indians, claimed that the Magaguadavic was the true St. Croix ; 
while Great Britain asserted and proved that the outlet of the Schoodic Lakes was 
the veritable river. The islands were surrendered to Britain; but Moose, Dudley, 
and Frederick Islands were restored to the United States in 1818. 

Eastport was founded about 1784, by fishermen from the coast of Essex County, 
Mass., who settled here on account of the facilities for catching and curing fish. In 
1808 the walls of Fort Sullivan were raised, and a detachment of troops was sta- 
tioned there. In 1813 the valuable British vessel, the Eliza Ann, was captured by 
the privateer Timothy Pickering and sent into Eastport. She was followed by 
H. M. S. Martin, whose commander demanded her surrender, on pain of destroying 
the town. The citizens refused to release the prize, and the Martin opened fire on 
Eastport, but was soon driven away by the guns of the fort. July 11, 1814, a Brit- 
ish fleet appeared off the town, and informed the commander that if he did not haul 
down his flag within five minutes they would bombard the town. The flag came 
down, the garrison laid down their arms, and the hostile fleet, headed by the Rami- 
lies, 74, anchored off the town. British martial law was enforced here for the next 
four years, after which the place was restored to the United States. 



The steamer Belle Brown, in ascending the bay, runs for some distance 
between Deer Isle and Moose Island. At about 5 M. from Eastport, 
Pleasant Point (known to the Indians as Syhaik) is seen on the 1. Here 
is the chief settlement of the Passamaquoddy Indians, who were driven 
from the peninsula of St. Andrews nearly a century ago, and received 
their present domain from the American government. They are about 400 
in number, and draw an annuity and a school-fund from the Republic. 

They are the remnant of the ancient Openango tribe of the Etchemin nation, and 
they cling tenaciously to the faith delivered unto them of old by the Jesuits. Their 
church is dedicated to St. Anne, and is served by Indian deacons ; and the pictu- 
resque cemetery is in the same vicinity. They support themselves by hunting, fish- 
ing, and basket-making, and their favorite amusement is dancing, for which they 
have built a hall. There are scarcely any pure-blooded Indians here, but the 
adulteration has been made with a choicer material than among the other tribes, 
since these are mostly French half-breeds, in distinction from the negro half-breeds 
of the lower coasts. Many years ago there was a controversy about the chieftaincy, 
in consequence of which a portion of the tribe seceded, and are now settled on the 
Schoodic Lakes. 

The name Passamaquoddy is said to be derived from Pesmo-acadie, " pollock- 
place." Others say that Quoddy means "pollock"; but Father Vetromile, the 
scholarly Jesuit missionary, claims that the whole word is a corruption of the Indian 
Peskamaquontik, derived from Peskadaminkkanti, a term which signifies "it goes 
up into the open field." 



28 Route I GRAND MANAN. 

As the bay is entered, above Pleasant Point, the "West Isles are seen 
opening on the r., displaying a great variety of forms and combinations. 
On the 1. are the pleasant shores of Perry, and far across, to the r., are the 
highlands about the Magaguadavic River. After passing Navy Island, the 
boat rounds in at St. Andrews. 

St. Andrews, the St. Croix River, and St. Stephen, see pages 33-36. 

4. Grand Manan. 

This " paradise of cliffs " is situated off Quoddy Head, about 7 M. from the 
Maine coast, and pertains to the Province of New Brunswick. It is easily reached 
from Eastport (dux-ing fair winds), with which it has a mail communication. The 
summer climate would be delicious were it not for the fogs ; and it is claimed that 
invalids suffering from gout and dyspepsia receive much benefit here (very likely 
from the enforced abstinence from rich food). The brooks and the many fresh- 
water ponds afford fair trouting and bird-shooting, and a few deer and rabbits are 
found in the woods. There are no bears nor reptiles on the island. There is a 
small inn at Grand Harbor, but the sojourner will prefer to get board in some of 
the private houses. Neat rooms and simple fare may there be obtained for S 4 - 7 a 
week. 

" As we advanced, Manan gradually rose above the waves and changed its aspect, 
the flat-topped purple wall being transmuted into brown, rugged, perpendicular 
cliffs, crowned with dark green foliage. Passing, as we did, close in by the extreme 
northern point, we were impressed by its beauty and grandeur, which far exceeds 
even that of the cliffs at Mount Desert. 

*' As a place of summer resort, Grand Manan is in some respects unequalled. At 
certain seasons the fog is abundant, yet that can be endured. Here the opportuni- 
ties for recreation are unequalled, and all persons fond of grand sea-shore views 
may indulge their taste without limit. The people are invariably kind and trust- 
worthy, and American manners and customs prevail to such an extent that travel- 
lers at once feel at home." (De Costa.) 

The island of Grand Manan is 22 M. long and 3-6 M. wide, and lies in 
the mouth of the Bay of Fundy, -whose powerful tides SAveep impetuously 
by its shores. It has about 1,500 inhabitants, who dwell along the road 
which connects the harbors on the E. shore, and are famous for their 
daring and expertness in the fisheries. They have 3 schools, 5 churches 
(mostly Baptist), and a military organization; wiiile the advantages of 
free-trade, insignificant taxation, government-built roads, and complete 
self-legislation, give reason for the apostrophe, " Happy Mananites, who, 
free from grinding taxation, now rove out from rock-bound coves, and 
quarry at will in the silvery mines of the sea! " The harbors on the E. 
shore afford safe shelter for small vessels, and are connected with the 
great cliff's on the W. by narrow roads through the woods. The fisheries 
of cod, herring, and haddock are very extensive in this vicinity, and form 
the chief resource of the people, who are distinguished for the quaint sim- 
plicity which usually pertains to small and insulated maritime communi- 
ties. Grand Manan has been for many years a favorite resort for Amer- 
ican marine painters, who find excellent studies in its picturesque cliff's 
and billowy seas. It was visited by Champlain in 1605, but was occupied 
only by the Indians for 180 years after. Col. Allan, the American com- 
mander in E. Maine during the Revolution, held the island with his Indian 



GRAND MA NAN. Route 4. 29 

auxiliaries, but it was finally ceded to Great Britain. After the war it 
was settled by several Loyalists from Massachusetts, chief among whom 
was Moses Gerrish. A recent writer demands that the island be fortified 
and developed, claiming that its situation, either for commerce or war, 
is strategically as valuable as those of the Isle of Man, Guernsey, and 
Jersey, and that it would make a fine point of attack against Portland 
and the coast of Maine. 

Grand Harbor is the chief of the island hamlets, and is situated on the 
safe and shallow bay of the same name. It has an Episcopal church of 
stone and two or three stores, besides a small inn. Off shore to the S. E. 
lie Ross, Cheyne, and White Head Islands, on the latter of which Audu- 
bon studied the habits of the herring-gulls, in 1833. To the E. are the 
rock-bound shores of Nantucket Island, and on the S. are the Grand 
Ponds. 

The, South Shore is reached by a good road leading down from Grand 
Harbor. At 5 M. distance is the narrow harbor of Seal Cove, beyond 
which the road lies nearer to the sea, affording fine marine views on the 
1., including the Wood Islands and the Gannet Rock Lighthouse, 9-10 
M. at sea. 4 M. beyond Seal Cove the road reaches Broad Cove, whence 
a path leads across the downs for about 2 M. to the high and ocean- 
viewing cliffs of S. W. Head. Among the rugged and surf-beaten rocks 
of this bold promontory is one which is called the Old Maid, from its 
rude resemblance to a colossal woman. About the S. W. Head is a favor- 
ite resort and breeding-place of the gulls, whose nests are made in the 
grass. A forest -path leads N. to Bradford's Cove, on the W. shore, a 
wide bight of the sea in which the ship Mavourneen was wrecked. 

The North Shore. The road from Grand Harbor to Whale Cove is 7-8 
M. long, and is firm and well-made. 3 M. N. of Grand Harbor, Wood- 
ward's Cove is passed, with its neat hamlet, 4 M. beyond which is Flagg's 
Cove. Sprague's Cove is a pretty fishing-hamlet on the S. side of Swal- 
low-Tail Head, where "everything appears to have been arranged for 
artistic effect. The old boats, the tumble-down storehouses, the pic- 
turesque costumes, the breaking surf, and all the miscellaneous para- 
phernalia of such a place, set off as they are by the noble background 
of richly-colored cliffs, produce an effect that is as rare as beautiful." 
Swallow-Tail Head is a fan-shaped peninsula, surrounded by wave-worn 
cliffs, and swept by gales from every quarter. On its outer point is a 
lighthouse which holds a fixed hght (visible for 17 M.) 148 ft. above 
the sea. 

Whale Cove is on the N. E. shore, and is bordered by a shingle-beach 
on which are found bits of porphyry, agate, jasper, and other minerals. 
" Here the view is surprisingly fine, the entire shore being encircled by 
immense cliffs that rise up around the border of the blue waves, with a 
richness of color and stateliness of aspect that cannot fail to impress the 



30 Routes. GRAND MANAN. 

beholder On the E. side is Fish Head, and on the "W. Eel Brook and 

Northern Head, the latter extending out beyond its neighbor, and be- 
tween are the blue sky and -water." On the melancholy cliffs at Eel 
Brook Cove the ship Lord Ashburton was wrecked, and nearly all on 
board were lost (21 of them are buried at Flagg's Cove). Beyond this 
point, and near the extreme northern cape, is the Bishop's Head, so called 
because of a vague profile in the face of the cliff. 

The W. coast of Grand ^lanan is lined w^ith a succession of massive cliffs, 
which appear from West Quoddy like a long and unbroken purple wall. 
These great precipices are 3 - 400 ft. high (attaining their greatest eleva- 
tion at the N. end), and fonn noble combinations of marine scenery. A 
cart-track leads across the island from near "Woodward's Cove to the ro- 
mantic scenery about Day^k Cove ; near which is ]\Ioney Cove, so named 
because search has been made there for some of Capt. Kidd's buried 
treasures. To the N. is Indian Beach, whei-e several lodges of the Passa- 
maquoddy tribe pass the summer, attending to the sliore fishery of por- 
poises. Still farther N. are the rocky palisades and whirling currents of 
Long's Eddy. 

" When the cliff is brought out on such a stupendous scale as at Grand Manan, 
with all the accessories of a wild ocean shore, the interest becomes absorbing. The 
other parts of the island are of course invested with much interest. The low eastern 
shore, fringed with small islands and rocks, affords many picturesque sights. In a 
pleasant day a walk southward has many charms. The bright sky, the shingle 
beach, the picturesque boats, and blue land-locked bays continually enforce the 
admiration of an artistic eye, and allure the pedestrian on past cape, cove, and 
reach, until he suddenly finds that miles of ground intervene between him and his 
dinner." (De Costa.) 

" Grand Manan, a favorite summer haunt of the painter, is the verj" throne of 
the bold and romantic. The high precipitous shores, but for the woodswhich beau- 
tify them, are quite in the style of Labrador." (L. L. Noble. ) 



Charlevoix speaks of an old-time wonder which seems to have passed away from 
these shores : " It is even asserted that at f of a league off Isle Menane, which serves 
as a guide to vessels to enter St. John's River, there is a rock, almost always cov- 
ered by the sea, which is of lapis-laznli. It is added that Commander de Razilli 
broke off a piece, which he sent to France, and Sieur Denys, who had seen it, says 
that it was valued at ten crowns an ounce." 

5. St. Jolm to St. Andrews and St. Stephen.— Passama- 
quoddy Bay. 

The steamer leaves the Reed's Point Wharf every Thursday and Saturday, at 8 
A.M., and reaches St. Stephen before dark. She returns from St. Stephen every 
Monday and Friday morning. Fares, St. John to St. George, $ 1.75 ; to St. An- 
drews, $ 1.50 ; to St. Stephen, $ 1.75. This route was served in 1874 by the famous 
Cuban blockade-runner Edgar Stuart, but another vessel wiU run here in 1875. 

St. John to St. Andrews by stage. 
The Royal Mail traverses this route daily over roads which are rugged and tire- 
some. Distances : St. John to Fairville, 2^ M. •, Spruce Lake, 7 ; Prince of Wales, 
11 ; Musquash, 14; Lepreau, 25; New River, 33; Pennfield, 39; St. George, 45; 
Bocabec, 55; St. Andrews, 65. Fare, $4. The Bay Shore Railway is a new line 
which was recently projected, and is intended to follow the direction of this mail- 
route. 



BAY OF FUNDY. Routed. 31 

After leaving the harbor of St. John the steamer runs S. W. by W. 9J 
M., passing the openings of Manawagonish Bay and Pisarinco Cove. The 
course is laid well out in the Bay -of Fundy, which "wears a beautiful 
aspect in fine summer weatlier, — a soft chalky hue quite different from 
the stern blue of the sea on the Atlantic shores, and somewhat approach- 
ing the summer tints of the channel on the coast of England." Beyond 
the point of Split Rock, Musquash Harbor is seen opening to the N. It is 
a safe and beautiful haven, 2 M. long and very deep, at whose head is the 
pretty Episcopal village of Musquash (Musquash Hotel), with several lum- 
ber-mills. About two centuries ago a French war-vessel was driven into 
this harbor and destroyed by a British cruiser. From Split Rock the 
course is W. ^ S. for 11^ M. to Point Lepreau, passing the openings of 
Chance Harbor and Dipper Harbor, in which are obscure marine hamlets. 
In the latter, many years ago, the frigate Plumper was Avrecked, with a 
large amount of specie on board. The harbor is now visited mostly by 
lobster-fishers. Point Lepreau is a bold and tide-swept promontory, on 
which are two fixed lights, visible for 18 and 20 M. at sea. 

The traveller will doubtless be amazed at the rudeness and sterility of these frown- 
ing shores. " Two Tery different impressions in regard to the Province of New 
Brunswick will be produced on the mind of the stranger, according as he contents 
himself with visiting the towns and inspecting the lands which lie along the sea- 
board, or ascends its rivers, or penetrates by its numerous roads into the interior of 
its more central and northern counties. In the former case he will feel like the 
traveller who enters Sweden by the harbors of Stockholm and Gottenburg, or who 
sails among the rocks on the western coast of Norway. The naked cliffs or shelving 
shores of granite or other hardened rocks, and the unvarying pine forests, awaken 
in his mind ideas of hopeless desolation, and poverty and bari-enness appear neces- 
sarily to dwell within the iron-bound shores But on the other hand, if the 

stranger penetrate beyond the Atlantic shores of the Province and travel through 
the interior, he will be struck by the number and beauty of its rivers, by the fertility 
of its river islands and intervales, and by the great extent and excellent condition 
of its roads." (Prof. J. F. W. Johnston, F. R. S.) 

From Point Lepreau the course is laid nearly W. for 16| M. to Bliss 
Island, crossing the bight of Mace's Bay, a wide and shallow estuary in 
which are two fishing-hamlets. The Saturday steamer stops on this reach 
at Beaver Harbor, a place of 150 inhabitants. S. of this hai'bor, and seen 
on the 1. of the course, are the five black and dangerous islets called the 
Wolves, much dreaded by navigators. A vessel of the International Steam- 
ship Company was wrecked here two or three years ago. One of the 
Wolves bears a revolving light. 111 ft. high, and visible for 16 M. 

The steamer now rounds Bliss Island (which has a fixed red light), and 
to the N. is seen the entrance to DEtang Harbor, a deep and picturesque 
inlet which is well sheltered by islands, the largest of which is called Cai- 
tifi". A few miles S. W. are seen the rolling hills of Campobello; Deer 
Island is nearer, on the W. ; and the bay is studded with weird-looking 
hummocky islands, — the Nubble, White, and Spruce Islands, the grim 
trap-rock mamelon of White Horse, and many other nameless rocks. 
They are known as the West Isles, and most of them are inhabited by 



32 Routed. ST. GEORGE. 

hard-working fishermen. The course is laid to the N. W. through the 
Letite Passage, between MacMaster Island and the Peninsula of Masca- 
rene, and Fassamaquoddy Bay is entered. Sweeping up to the N., along 
and close to a bold shore 150-225 ft. high, the steamer rounds the Mijic 
Bluff on the r. and enters the harbor at the mouth of the Magaguadavic 
River. To the N. are the wooded slopes of Mount Blair, and some distance 
up the estuary is the hamlet of Mascarene. The vessel drifts about in the 
harbor while passengers and freight are transferred to the dingy little 
steamer that ascends to St. George. 

St. George (three inns) is a town of 600 inhabitants, devoted to the 
lumber-trade, and situated about 10 M. from the mouth of the river. It 
has 4 churches, a masonic hall, and a custom-house. It is at the head of 
tide, and ships can load, in the deep water below, all the year round. 
This district has recently become celebrated for its production of a fine 
granite, of a rose-red color, which receives a high polish, and is being 
introduced for ornamental columns and monuments. It resembles the 
beautiful Scotch granite of Peterhead (populai-ly called "Aberdeen gran- 
ite"). At St. George are the "^ Loioer Falls of the Magaguadavic, where 
the river is compressed into a chasm 30 ft. wide, and falls 100 ft. in five 
successive steps. Along the sides of the gorge are several powerful saw- 
mills, clinging to the rocks like eagles' nests, and sluicing their lumber 
into the deep pools below. Geologists have found, in this vicinity, marked 
evidences of the action of icebergs and glaciers. 

"The village, the cataract, the lake, and the elevated wilderness to the N., render 
this part of the country peculiarly picturesque ; indeed, the neighborhood of St. 
George, the Digdeguash, Chamcook, and the lower St. Croix, present the traveller 
with some of the finest scenery in America." (Dr. Gesner.) 

!Lake Utopia is picturesquely situated in a deep and sheltered depression among 
forest-covered hills, along whose slopes ledges of red granite crop out here and there. 
It is about 4 M. from St. George, and is 6 M. long by 1- 2 M. wide. The road from 
Beaver Harbor to Gagetown follows its E. shore through an almost unbroken soli- 
tude. On a bluff over this lake the earliest pioneers found the remains of an ancient 
and mysterious temple, all traces of which have now passed away. Here also was 
found a slab of red granite, bearing a large bas-relief of a human head, in style re- 
sembling an Egyptian sculpture, and having a likeness to Washington. This re- 
markable medallion has been placed in the Natural History Museum at St. John. 
For nearly 40 years the Indians and lumbermen near the lake have told marvellous 
stories of a marine prodigy called " the Monster of Utopia," which dwells in this 
fair forest-loch. His last appearance was in 1867, when several persons about the 
shores claimed to have seen furious disturbances of the waters, and to have caught 
momentary glimpses of an animal 10 ft. thick and 30 ft. long. The lake abounds in 
gilvery-gray trout, and its tributary streams contain many brook-trout and smelt. 

Among the hills along the valley of the Magaguadavic River are the favorite haunts 
of large numbers of Virginian deer. Moose were formerly abundant in this region, 
and it is but a few years since over 400 were killed in one season, for the sake of their 
hides. This noble game animal has been nearly exterminated by the merciless set- 
tlers, and will soon become extinct in this district. 

The Magaguadavic Kiver (an Indian name meaning "The River of the 
Hills") rises in a chain of lakes over 80 M. N. W., within a short portage of the 
Sheogomoc River, a tributary of the upper St. John. Traversing the great Lake 
of Magaguadavic it descends through an uninhabited and barren highland region, 
tersely described by an early pioneer as " a scraggly hole." Much of its lower valley 
is a wide intervale, which is supposed to have been an ancient lake-bottom. The 
river is followed closely by a rugged road, which leads to the remote Harvey and 
Magaguadavic settlements. 



ST. ANDREWS. Routed. 33 

After leaving the port of St. George, the steamer runs S. W. across Pas- 
samaquoddy Ba}', with the West Isles and the heights of Deer Island on 
the S., and other bold hummocks on either side. On the N. are the estua- 
ries of the Digdeguash and Bocabec River?, and the massive ridge of the 
Chamcook Mt. Large fleets of fishing-boats are sometimes met in these 
waters, following the schools of herring or pollock. In about an hour, the 
steamer approaches St. Andrews, passes its great summer hotel, and lands 
between Navy Island and the peninsula. 

St. Andrews {Central Exchange, 81.50 a day), the capital of Charlotte 
County, is finely situated on a peninsula at the mouth of the St. Croix 
River, which is here 2 M. wide. It has about 1,800 inhabitants, and a few 
quiet old streets, surrounded by a broad belt of farms. The town was 
founded about a century ago, and soon acquired considerable commercial 
importance, and had large fleets in its harbor, loading with timber for 
Great Britain and the West Indies. This era of prosperity' was ended by 
the rise of the town of St. Stephen and by the operation of the Reciprocity 
Treaty, and for many years St. Andrews has been retrograding, until now 
the wharves are deserted and dilapidated, and the houses seem antiquated 
and neglected. It has recently attracted summer visitors, on account of 
the pleasant scenery and the facilities for boating, fishing, and excursions 
among the adjacent islands. A large and handsome summer hotel has 
been erected near the shore, but the enterprise of the town has not been 
able to furnish it, so that it is not eligible to tourists, who must therefore 
dwell at the village inns. 

Steamboats run daily between St. Andrews and Eastport, Calais, and St. Stephen. 
There is a ferry to the American Tillage of Robbinston, 2 M distant. The New 
Brunswick and Canada Railway runs thence to Houlton and Woodstock, 90 and 93 
M. N. (See Route 6.) 

The Chamcook Mt. is about 6 M. X. of St. Andrew, and its base is 
reached by a good road (visitors can also go by railway to the foot of the 
mountain). It is often ascended by parties for the sake of the beautiful 
view, which includes " the lovely Passamaquoddy Bay, with its little 
islands and outline recalling recollections of the Gulf of Naples as seen 
from the summit of Vesuvius, whilst the scenery toward the X. is hilly, 
with deep intervening troughs containing natural tarns, where the togue or 
gray-spotted trout is plentiful." The bright course of the St. Croix River 
is visible for a long distance, and numerous pretty frontier-villages are seen 
on either shore. " The glacial rounded top " of Chamcook is scored with 
the long scratches which indicate that at some remote age a glacier from 
the northern highlands has grated and ground its way across the moun- 
tain. The views of the Chamcook Lake and Harbor, and of the numerous 
conical hills to the X. , are of much interest. 

As the steamer swings out into the river, the little ship-building village 
of RobUr^ston is seen, on the American shore. On the r. the bold blufis of 
" 2t . ' ,c 



34 Routes. ST. CROIX RIVER. 

Chamcook Mt. are passed, and occasional fai*m-houses are seen along the 
shores. 5-6 M. above St. Andrews, the steamer passes, on the E. side of 
Doucet's Island, on which a lighthouse has been erected by the Ameri- 
can government. W. of the island is the village of Red Beach, with its 
plaster-mills, and on the opposite shore is the farming settlement of Bay 
Shore. 

In the year 1604 Henri TV. of France granted a large part of America to Pierre du 
Guast, Sieur de Monts, and Governor of Pons. This tract extended from Phila- 
delphia to Quebec, and Avas named Acadie, which is said to be deriT^d from a local 
Indian word. De Monts sailed from Havre in April, -with a motley company of im- 
pressed vagabonds, gentlemen-adventurers, and Huguenot and Catholic clergymen, 
the latter of whom quarrelled all the way over. After exploring parts of Nova 
Scotia and the Bay of Fundy. the voyagers ascended the Passamaquoddy Bay and 
the river to St. Croix Isle, where it was determined to found a settlement. Bat- 
teries were erected at each end, joined by palisades, within which were the houses 
of De Monts and Champlain, workshops, magazines, the chapel, and the barracks of 
the Swiss soldiery. But the winter soon set in with its intense cold, and the rav- 
ages of disease were added to the miseries of the colonists. 35 out of 79 men died 
of the scurvy during the winter ; and when a supply-ship arrived from France, in 
June, the island was abandoned. 

"It is meet to tell you how hard the isle of Sainte Croix is to be found out to 
them that never were there ; for there are so many isles and great bays to go by 
(from St. John) before one be at it, that I wonder how one might ever pierce so far 
as to find it. There are three or four mountains imminent above the others, on the 
sides ; but on the N. side, from whence the river runneth down, there is but a sharp 
pointed one, above two leagues distant. The woods of the main land are fair and 
admirable high, and well grown, as in like manner is the grass Now let us pre- 
pare and hoist sails. M. de Poutrincourt made the voyage into these parts, with 
some men of good sort, not to winter there, but as it were to seek out his seat, and 
find out a land that might like him. Which he having done, had no need to sojourn 
there any longer." Late in the year, " the most urgent things being done, and 
hoary snowy father being come, that is to say. Winter, then they were forced to 
keep within doors, and to live every one at his own home. During which time our 
men had three special discommodities in this island : want of wood (for that which 
■was in the said isle was spent in buildings), lack of fresh water, and the continual 
watch made by night, fearing some surprise from the savages that had lodged them- 
selves at the foot of the said island, or some other enemy. For the malediction and 
rage of many Christians is such, that one must take heed of them much more than 
of infidels." (Lescarbot's Nouvelle France.) 

In 1783 the river St. Croix was designated as the E. boundary of Maine, but the 
Americans claimed that the true St. Croix was the stream called the Magaguadavic. 
It then became important to find traces of De Monts's settlement of 180 years pre- 
vious, as that would locate the true St. Croix River. So, after long searching among 
the bushes and jungle, the boundary-commissioners succeeded in finding remnants 
of the ancient French occupation on Neutral (Doucet's) Island, and thus fixed the 
line. 

About 10 M. above St. Andrews the river deflects to the W., and to the 
N. is seen the deep and spacious * Oak Bay, surrounded by bold hills, and 
forming a beautiful and picturesque prospect. It is supposed that the 
French explorers named the St. Croix River from the resemblance of its 
waters at this point to a cross, — the upright arm being formed by the 
river to the S. and Oak Bay to the N., while the horizontal arm is outlined 
by the river to the W. and a cove and creek on the E. At the head of the 
bay is the populous farming-village of Oak Bay, with three churches. 

Rounding on the 1. the bold bluff called Devil's Head (from one Duval, 
who formerly lived there), the course is laid to the N. W., in a narrow 



ST. STEPHEN. koute 5. 35 

channel, between sterile shores. 2-3 M. above is the antiquated marine 
hamlet called The Ledge (1. bank), most of whose inhabitants are depend- 
ent on the sea for their living. 4 M. above this point the steamer reaches 
her dock at St. Stephen. 

St. Stephen ( Watson House) is an active and enterprising provincial 
town, situated 'at the head of navigation on the St. Croix River, opposite 
the American city of Calais. The population is about 5,000, with 6 
churches, 2 newspapers, and 2 banks. The business of St. Stephen is 
mostly connected with the manufacture and shipment of lumber. The 
falls of the river at this point give a valuable water-power, which will 
probably be devoted to general manufacturing pui-poses after the lumber 
supply begins to fail. A covered bridge connects St. Stephen Avith Calais 
{International Hotel; St. Croix Exchange), a small city of the State of 
Maine, with 6^000 inhabitants, 7 churches, 2 weekly papers, and 2 banks. 
Although under different flags, and separated by lines of customs-oflicers, 
St. Stephen and Calais form practically but one community, with identi- 
cal pursuits and interests. Their citizens have always lived in perfect 
fraternity, and formed and kept an agreement by which they abstained 
from hostilities during the War of 1812. At that time the authorities also 
restrained the restless spirits from the back country from acts of violence 
across the borders. 2-3 M. above is another Canado-American town, 
with large lumber-mills at the falls, which is divided by the river into 
Milltown-St. Stephen and Milltown-Calais. Travellers who cross the river 
either at Calais or JNIilltown will have their baggage looked into by the 
customs-officers, squads of whom are stationed at the ends of the bridges. 

The New Brunswick & Canada Railway runs N. from St. Stephen to Houlton and 
Woodstock (see Route 6). Calais is connected with the Schoodic Lakes by railway, 
and with Eastport by stages. The U. S. Mail-stage runs daily to Bangor, 95 M. w! 
(fare, $ 7-50), passing through a wide tract of unoccupied wilderness. The steam- 
boat Belle Brown leaves Calais or St. Stephen tri-weekly for St. Andrews and East- 
port, where it connects with the International steamships for Portland and Boston 
{see also Route 3, and Osgood's Neiv England). Fares, Calais to Portland, $4.50 ; 
to Boston, by water, $ 5.50 ; to Boston, by rail from Portland, $ 7. 

The Schoodic LaTces. 
A railway runs 21 M. N.W. from Calais to Lew ey's Island (2 inns), 
in Princeton, whence the tourist may enter the lovely and picturesque 
Schoodic Lakes. The steamer Gipsey carries visitors 12 M. up the lake to 
Grand Lake Stream, one of the most famous fishing-grounds in America. 
The trout in Lewey's Lake have been nearly exterminated by the voracious 
pike, but the upper waters are more carefully guarded, and contain perch, 
pickerel, land-locked sahnon, lake-trout, and fine speckled-trout. The 
Grand Lake Stream is 3-4 M. long, and connects the Grand and Big 
Lakes with its rapid waters, in which are found many of the famous sil- 
very salmon-trout. The urban parties who visit these forest-lakes usually 
engage Indian guides to do the heavy work of portages and camp-build- 



36 Route 6. SCHOODIC LAKES. 

ing, and to guide their course from lake to lake. There is a largo village 
of the Passamaquoddy tribe near the foot of Big Lake. A two hours' 
portage leads to Grand Lake, a broad and beautiful forest-sea, -with 
gravelly shores, picturesque islets, and transparent waters. The crj- of 
the loon is often heard here, and a ii^w bear and deer still lurk along the 
shores. From Grand Lake a labyrinth of smaller and yet more remote 
lakes may be entered ; and portages conduct thence to the navigable 
tributaries of the ]Machias and Penobscot Rivers. 

" One of the most picturesque portions of the western Schoodic region is Grand 
Lake. This noble sheet of water is broken here and there by islets, and siirrouudeii , 
even to the water"? edge, with forests of pine and hanl wood, whilst its bottom is 
covereil with granitic bowlders, which, in combination with drift, are spread far and 
wide among the arboreal vegetation around." 

*• "While the fog is lifting from Schoodic Lake, 
And the white tmut are leaping for flies, 
It s exciting sport those beauties'to take. 
Jogging tlie nerves and feasting the eves." 

Genio C. Scott. 

6. St Andrews and St Stephen to Woodstock and Houlton. 

Bv the New Brunswick & Canada Railwav. Fare from St. Stephen to Wood- 
stock, 82.90. 

Distances. — St. Andrews to Chamcook, 5 M. ; Bartlett's. 11; Waweig, 13; 
Roix Road, 15; Hewitfs, 19 : Rolling Dam. 20; Dumbarton, 24; Watt Junction, 
27 (.St. Stephen to Watt Junction, liM : Lawi-ence, 20: Barber Dam, 3i ; Mc.\dam 
Junction, 43 ; Doer Lake, 59 ; Oantorburv, Go ; Eel River, 75 ; AVickham, SO ; Debec 
Junction, 90 (Houlton, 9S) ; Hodgdon, 9S ; Woodstock, 101. 

The country travei'sed by this line is one of the most irredeemably des- 
olate regions in North America. The view from the car-windows pre- 
sents a continual succession of dead and dying forests, clearings bristling 
with stumps, and funereal clusters of blasted and fire-scorched tree-trunks. 
The traces of human habitation, which at wide intervals are seen in this 
gloomy land, are cabins of logs, where poverty and toil seem the fittest 
occupants; and Nature has Avithheld the hills and lakes with which she 
rudely adorns other wildernesses. The sanguine Dr. Gesner wrote a vol- 
ume inviting immigration to New Brunswick, and describing its domains 
in language Avhich reaches the outer verge of complaisant optimism ; but 
in presence of the lands between the upper St. John and St. Stephen his 
pen lost its hyperbolical fervor. He says: "Excepting the intervales of 
the stream, it is necessary to speak with circumspection in regard to the 
general quality of the lands. !Many ti-acts are fit for little else but pas- 
turage." This district is occupied, for the most part, by the remains of 
soft-wood forests, whose soils are always inferior to those of tlie hard- 
wood districts. 

For a short distance beyond St. Andrews the railway lies near the 
shores of Passamaquoddy Bay, aftbrdiug pleasant views to the r. Then 
the great mass of Chamcook Mt. is passed, with its abrupt sides and 
rounded summit. ^ValL'eig is between Bonaparte Lake and Oak Bay 
(see page 34). About 7 M. beyond, the line approaches the Digdeguash 



ST. JOHN TO LANGOR. Route?. 37 

River, which it follows to its source. At Watt Junction the St. Stephen 
Branch Railway comes in on the 1., and the train passes on to McAdam 
Junction, where it intersects the European «& North American Railway 
(page 38). There is a restaurant at this station, and the passenger will 
have time to dine v. hile the train is waiting for the arrival of the trains 
from Bangor and from St. John. 

The forest is again entered, and the train passes on for 16 M. until it 
reaches the lumber-station at Deer Lake. The next station is Canter- 
bury (small inn), the centre of extensive operations in lumber. Running 
N. W. for 10 M., the Eel River is crossed near Rankin's Mills, and at 
Debec Junction the passenger changes for Woodstock. 

A train runs thence 8 M. N. W. to Houlton {Snell House., Buzzell House), 
the shire-town of Aroostook County, in the State of Maine (see Osgood's 
New England, Route 50). The other train runs N. E. down the valley of 
the South Brook, and in about 6 I\I. emerges on the highlands above the 
valley of the St. John River. For the ensuing 5 M. there are beautiful 
views of the river and its cultivated intervales, presenting a wonderful 
contrast to the dreary region behind. The line soon reaches its terminus 
at the pretty village of Woodstock (see Route 11). 

7. St. John to Bangor. 

By the European & North American Railway, in 10-12 hours. 

Distances. — St. John; Carleton, i M. ; Fairville, 4; South Bay, 7; Grand 
Bay, 12; Westfield, 16; Nerepis,20; Welsford, 26; Clarendon, 30; Gaspereaux, 
33; Enniskillen, 36; Iloyt, 39; .Blissville, 42; Fredericton Junction, 46; Tracy, 
49; Cork, 61; Harvey, 66; Magaguadavic , 76; McAdam Junction, 85; St. Croix, 
91; Vanceboro', 92; Jackson Brook, 112; Danforth, 117; Bancroft, 126; King- 
man, 139; Mattawamkeag, 147; Winn, 1-50; Lincoln Centre, 159; Lincoln, 161; 
Enfield, 170; Passadumkeag, 175; Olamon, 179; Greenbush, 182; Costigan, 187; 
Milford, 192; Oldtown, 193 ; Great Works, 194; Webster, 196; Orono, 197; Basin 
Mills, 198; Veazie, 201; Bangor, 205. (Newport, 233: Waterville, 260; Augusta, 
281 ; Brunswick, 315 ; Portland, 343 ; Portsmouth, 395 ; Newburyport, 415 ; Bos- 
ton, 451.) 

The traveller crosses the Princess St. ferry from St. John to Carleton, 
and takes the train at the terminal station, near the landing. The line 
ascends through the disordered suburb of Carleton, giving from its higher 
grades broad and pleasing views over the city, the harbor, and the Bay of 
Fundy. It soon reaches Fairville, a growing town near the Provincial 
Lunatic Asylum and the Suspension Bridge. There are numerous lumber- 
mills here, in the coves of the river. The train sweeps around the South 
Bay on a high grade, and soon reaches the Grand Bay of the St. John 
River, beyond which is seen the deep estuary of the Kennebecasis Bay, 
with its environment of dark hills. The shores of the Long Reach ai-e fol- 
lowed for several miles, with beautiful views on the r. over the placid 
river and its vessels and villages (see also page 41). To the W. is a 
sparsely settled and rugged region in which are many lakes, — Loch 
Alva, the Robin Hood, Sherwood, and the Queen's Lakes. 



3S HoiUcT. CHIPUTXETICOOK LAKES. 

The line leaves the Long Keaoh. and turn? to the X. W. up the valley 
of the Xerepis Kiver, which is followed as far as the hamlet of Wcls/ord 
(small inn). The country now grows very tame and unintei-esting, as the 
Douglas Valley is ascended. Clarendon is 7 M. tVom the Clarendon Set- 
tlement, with its new homes wrested fivm the savage forest. From Gas- 
pereaux a wagon conveys passengers to the South Oromocto Lake, 10-12 
M. S. W., among the highlands, a secluded sheet of water about 5 M. long, 
abounding in trout. Beyond the lumber station of Enniskillen, the train 
passes the prosperous village of Blissville ; and at Fredencton Junction a 
connection is made for t>edericton, about 20 M. X. 

Tracy's Jfills is the next stopping-place, and is a cluster of lumber-mills 
on the Oromocto Kiver, which traverses the village. On eitlier side are 
wide tracts of unpopulated wilderness; and alter crossing the parish of 
New Maryland, the line enters Planners Sutton, passes the Cork Settle- 
ment, and stops at the Ilarvcij Settlement, a rngged district occupied by 
families from the borders of England and Scotland. To the X. and X. W. 
are the Bear and Cranberry Lakes, atVording gix->d fishing. A road leads 
S. 7 - 8 ;^L from Harvey to the Oromocto Lake, a fine sheet of water 
nearly 10 JL long and 3-4 >L wide, who.o many large trout are found. 
The neighboring forests contain various kinds of game. Xear the X. "\^'. 
shore of the lake is the small hamlet of Tweedside. The Bald Mountain, 
"near the Harvey Settlement, is a great mass of porphyry, with a lake 
(probablv in the crater) near the summit. It is on the edge of the coal 
measures, where they touch the slate." 

Magaguadavic station is at the foot of ^lagaguadavic Lake, which is 
about 8 M. long, and is visited by sportsmen. On its E. shore is the low 
and bristling Magaguadavic Kidge; and a chain of smaller lakes lies to 
the X. 

The train now runs S. W. to McAdam Junction u*»^^taurant in the sta- 
tion), where it intei-sects the Xew Brunswick and Canada Railway (see 
Eoute 6). 6 ^l. beyond McAdam, through a monotonous wilderness, is 
St. Croi.r, on the river of the same name. After crossing the river the 
train enters the United States, and is visited by the customs-officers at 
Vanceboro' ( CJiiputneticook House). This is the station whence the beau- 
tiful lakes of the upper Schoodic may be visited. 

The Cliipiitnetiooolv talces are about 45 M. in length, in a N. TT. conrse, 

and aiv fi\nu ^4 to 10 M. in width. Thoir navigation is very intricate, by reason of 
the nniltitnde of islets and i:>lands, nam^w passtiges, coves, and deep inlets, which, 
diversity of laud and water atlbnls beautiful combinations of scenery. The islands 
are covered with ceilar, hemlock, and birch trees; and the hold highlands which 
shadow the lakes are also well wooded. One of the most remarkable features of the 
scenery is the abundance of bowlders and ledges of fine white gi~anite, either seen 
throiigh the ti-auspaivut waters or lining the "shore like massive masonry. "Uni- 
versal gloom and srilluess reign over these lakes and the forests aixmnd them." 

Beyond Vauceboro' the train passes through an almost unbroken wilder- 
ness for 55 31., during the last 16 M. following the coarse of the Matta- 



ST. JOHN PJVER. Routes. 39 

wamkeag River. The station of Mattaicamkeag is tit the confluence of 
the Mattawamkeag and Penobscot Rivei-s; and the railway from thence 
follows the course of the latter stream, traversing a succession of thinly- 
populated lumbering towns. 45 M. below Mattawamkeag, the Penobscot 
is crossed, and the train reaches Oldtown (two inns), a place of about 
4,000 inhabitants, largely engaged in the lumber business. The traveller 
should notice here the immense and costly booms and mills, one of which 
is the largest in the Avorld and has 100 saws at work cutting out planks. 

On an island just above Oldtown is the home of the Tarratine Indians, formerly 
the most powerful and warlike of the Northern tribes. They were at first well-dis- 
posed towards the colonists, but after a series of wrongs and insults they took up 
arms in 1678, and intticted such terrible damage on the settlements that Maine be- 
came tributary to them by the Peace of Casco. After destroying the fortress of Pem- 
aquid to avenge an insult to their chief, St. Castin, they remained quiet for many 
years. The treaty of 1720 contains the substance of their present relations with the 
State. The declension of the tribe was marked for two centuries; but it is now 
slowly increasing. The people own the islands in the Penobscot, and have a reve- 
nue of .■§ 6 - 7,000 from the State, which the men eke out by working on the lumber- 
rafts, and by hunting and fishing, while the women make baskets and other trifles 
for sale. The island-village is without streets, and consists of many small houses 
built around a Catholic church. There are over 400 persons here, most of whom 
are half-breeds. 

Below Oldtown the river is seen to be filled with booms and rafts of 
timber, and lined with saw-mills. At Orono is the State Agricultural 
College; and soon after passing Veazie the train enters the city of 
Bangor. 

For descriptions of Bangor, the Penobscot River, and the route to Bos- 
ton, see Osgood's New Emjland. 

8. St. John to Fredericton.— The St. John River. 

The steamer Rothesay, of the Express Line, leaves St. John (Indiantown) at 9 
A. M on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. The steamer David Weston, of the 
Union Line, leaves Indiantown at 9 a. m. on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. 
See also Routes 9 and 10. These vessels are comfortably fitted up for passengers, 
in the manner of the smaller boats on the Hudson River. Dinner is served on 
board ; and Fredericton is usually reached late in the afternoon. 

The scenery of the St. John River is pretty, and has a pleasing pastoral quiet- 
ness. The elements of the landscapes are simple ; the settlements are few and 
small, and at no time will the traveller find his attention violently drawn to any 
passing object. There are beautiful views on the Long Reach, at Belleisle Bay, 
and during the approach to Fredericton, but the prevalent character of the 
scenery is that of quiet and restful rural lands, by which it is pleasant to drift on 
a balmy svimmer-day. Certain provincial writers have done a mischief to the St. 
John by bestowing upon it too extravagant praise, thereby preparing a disappoint- 
ment for such as believed their report. One calls it " the Rhine of America," and 
another prefers it to the Hudson. This is wide exaggeration ; but if the traveller 
would enjoy a tranquillizing and luxurious journey through a pretty farming coun- 
try, abounding in mild diversity of scenery, he should devote a day to this river. 

Distances. — (The steamboat-landings bear the names of their owners, and the 
following itinerary bears reference rather to the villages on the shores than to the 
stopping-places of the boats.) St. John; Brundage's Point, 10 M. ; Westfield, 17 ; 
Greenwich Hill, 19 ; Oak Point, 25 ; Long Reach, 26 ; Tennant's Cove (Belleisle 
Bay), 29; Wickham, 32; Hampstead, 38; Otnabog, 41; Gagetown, 50; Upper 
Gagetown, 58 ; Maugerville, 72 ; Oromocto, 75 ; Glasier's, 81 ; Fredericton, 86. 

Fares. — St. John to Gagetown, $ 1 ; to Fredericton, % 1.50. 



40 i^.:.rc>\ KENNEBECASIS BAY. 

This rirer \ras called Lcoshiool- (Long River) by the Etohemin Indians, and 
OuaHsoudit^ by the Micmaos. It is siip|K»seil to have Kvu visited by Pe Mout5, 
or other exploivrs at an early day. and iu the eonmiissiou of the year 15i^S to the 
Lieut -Genenil of Acadia it is called jU.j Kiviere lU la Gratnie BiiU. But no exam- 
ination vnis made of the iipyx^r water? until St. John's Pay. 1004, when the Fnnu-h 
fleet under Be Monts and routrinoourt entered the sreat river. In honor of the 
s;uut on whose festival the expkntition w;\s begun, it was then entitled the St. .John. 
At^er spending severtil weoks in ascending the stnvuu and its conneoteil waters, the 
discoverers saik\l away to the south, bearing a gviod i-eport of the chief river of 
Acadia. I>e Monts ex^^ecteil to tind by this course a near route to Tadous;ic, on the 
Saguenay. and theivibre s;uUxl up as fiir as the depth of ^^"ate^ would jvrmit. " The 
extent of this river, the fish with which it wj\s filled, the grapes growing on its 
banks, and the bojxuty of its scenery, wen? all objects of wonder and admiration." 
At a subsequent day the fieiTC struggles of the French st^-ignenrs werv wiiged on its 
shorts, and the invading fleets of ISew England furroweil its tranquil waters. 

The St. John is the chief river of the Maritime Provinces, and is over 450 >L 
iu length, being uavigtible for stciimers of ],0^^K> tons for 90 M.. for light-tlraught 
steivmers 270 M. (with a bre:\k at the Grand Falls), and for canix'S for nearly its 
entire extent. It takes its rise iu the great Maine forvst, near the sources of the 
Penobscot and the Chauditre; and from the lake which heads its S. W. Branch 
the Intiian com^reirrs carry their canoes aci"oss the Mej;\rmette Portage and launch 
them in the Chaudien.\ on which they descend to Quebec. Flowing to the N. E. 
for over 150 M. through the Maine forest, it receives the Allag:\sh, St. Francis, and 
other large sti-eams ; and from the mouth of the St. Francisnearly to the Grand 
Falls, a distance of 75 M., it forms the fi-ontier between the Unittxl States and 
Canada. It is the chief member in that grt\\t system of rivers and lakes which has 
won for New Brunswick the distinction of Iving •• the most finely watered country 
in the world." At Madawaska the course changes from X. E to S. E., and the 
sparsely settleil N. W. counties of the Province are travei-sed. with large tributaries 
coming in on either side. Puring the last 50 M. of its course it receives the waters 
of the great basins of the Grand and AVashadeinoak Ljvkes and the Belleisle and 
Kennebecasis Rays, which have a pjirallel direction to the X. E.,aud atToni good 
lacilitit>s for inland navigation. The tributary streams are connate*.! with those of 
the Gulf and of the Bay of Chaleur by short portages (^ which will be mentioned iu 
connection with their points of deptvrture). 

Immediatelr after leaving the dock at St. John a tine retrospect is 
given of the dark chasm below, over which is the light and graceful 
STispeusion-bridge. Eunning xip by Point Pleasant, the boat ascends a 
narrow gorge with high and abrupt banks, at whose bases are large 
lumber-mills. On the r. is Boar's fftad; a pictiiresque rocky promon- 
tory-, in whose sides are quarries of limestone; 3-4 M. above Indiantown 
the broad expanse of Grand Bay is entered, and South Bay is seen open 
ing on the 1. rear. 

The Kennebecasis Bay is now seen, opening to the X. E. This noble 
sheet of water is from 1 to 4 'M. wide, and is navigable for large vessels 
for over 20 M. It receives the Kennebecasis and Hammond Rivers, and 
contains several islands, the chief of which. Long Island, is 5 M. long, 
and is opposite the village of Rothesay (see page 22). The E. shore is fol- 
lowed for many miles by the track^Df the Intercolonial Railway. 

The testimony of the rocks causes scientists to believe that the St. John formerly 
emptied by two motiths , — through the Kennebecasis and the Marsh Valley , and 
through South Bay into Manawagouish Bay, — and that the bi-eaking down of the 
present channel tliixiugh the lofty hills W. of St. John is an event quit* recent in 
geological history. The Indians still preserve a tradition that this barrier of hills 
wjis once unbroken and served to divert the stream. 



LONG REACH. Route 8. 41 

On the banks of the placid Kennehecasis the ancient Micmac legends locate the 
home of the Great Beaver, " feared by beasts and men," whom Glooscap finally 
conquered and put to death. In this vicinity dwelt the two Great Brothers, Gloos- 
cap and Malsunsis, of unknown origin and invincible power. Glooscap knew that 
his brother was vulnerable onlj' by the touch of a fern-root ; and he had told Mal- 
sunsis (falsely) that the stroke of an owl-s feather would kill him. It came to pass 
that Malsunsis determined to kill his brother (whether tempted thus by Mik-o, the 
Squirrel, or by Quah-beet-e-sis, the son of thg Great Beaver, or by his own evil am- 
bition) ; wherefore with his arrow he shot Koo-koo-skoos, the Owl, and with one of 
his feathers struck the sleeping Glooscap. Then he awoke, and reproached Malsun- 
sis, but afterwards told him that a blow from the root of a pine would kill him. 
Then the traitorous man led his brother on a hunting excursion far into the forest, 
and while he slept he smote him with a pine-root. But the cautious Glooscap arose 
unharmed, and drove Malsunsis forth into the forest ; then sat down by the brook- 
side and said to himself, " Naught but a flowering rush can kill me." Musquash, 
the Beaver, hidden among the sedge, heard these words and reported them to Mal- 
sunsis, who promised to do unto him even as he should ask. Therefore did' Mus- 
quash say, •' Give unto me wings like a pigeon." But the warrior answered, " Get 
thee hence, thou with a tail like a file ; what need hast thou of pigeon-s wings ? " 
and went on his way. Then the Beaver was angry, and went forth unto the camp 
of Glooscap, to whom he told what he had done. And by reason of these tidings, 
Glooscap arose and took a root of fern and sought Malsunsis in the wide knd gloomy 
forest ; and when he had found him he smote him so that he fell down dead. " And 
Glooscap sang a song over him and lamented." 

Now, therefore, Glooscap ruled all beasts and men. And there came unto him 
three brothers seeking that he would give them great strength and long life and 
much stature. Then asked he of them whether they wished these things that they 
might benefit and counsel men and be glorious in battle. But they said, " No; we 
seek not the good of men, nor care we for others." Then he offered unto them suc- 
cess in battle, knowledge and skill in diseases, or wisdom and subtlety in counsel. 
But they would not hearken unto him. Therefore did Glooscap wax angry, and 
said: "Go your ways; you shall have strength and stature and length of days." 
And while they were yet in the way, rejoicing, "lo I their feet became rooted to the 
ground, and their legs stuck together, and their necks shot up, and they were 
turned into three cedar-trees, strong and tall, and enduring beyond thedaysof men, 
but destitute aUke of all glory and of all use." 

Occasional glimpses of the railway are obtained on the 1., and on the r. 
is the lai'ge island of Kennebecasis, which is separated from the Kingston 
peninsula by the Milkish Channel. Then the shores of Land's End are 
passed on the r. ; and on the 1. is the estuary of the Nerepis Eiver. At 
this point the Ioav (but rocky and alpine) ridge of the Nerepis Hills crosses 
the river, running N. E. to Bull Moose Hill, near the head of Belleisle 
Bay. 

The steamer now changes her course from N. W. to N. E., and enters the 
Long Beach, a broad and straight expanse of the river, 16 M. long and 
1-3 M. wide. The shores are high and bold, and the scenery has a lake- 
like character. Beyond the hamlets of Westfield and Greenwich Hill, on 
the 1. bank, is the rugged and forest-covered ridge known as the DeviVs 
Back, an oflf-spur of the minor Alleghany chain over the Nerepis Valley, 
Abreast of the wooded Foster's Island, on the E. shore, is a small ham- 
let clustered about a tall-spired chui'ch. Caton's Island is just above Fos- 
ter's, and in on the W. shore is seen the pretty little village of Oah Point 
(Lacey's inn), with a lighthouse and the spire of the Episcopal church of 
St. Paul. Farther up is the insulated intervale of Grassy Island, famous 



42 Routes. BELLEISLE BAY. 

for its rich hay, which may be seen in autumn stacked all along the shore. 
The steamer now passes through the contracted channel off Mistaken 
Point, where the river is nearly closed by two narrow peninsulas which 
project towards each other from the opposite shores. 

Belleisle Bay turns to the \. E. just above Mistaken Point. The estuary is 
nearly hidden by a low island and by a rounded promontory on ther., beyond which 
the bay extends' to the N. E. for 12 - 14 M. , -with a uniform width of 1 M. It is navi- 
gable for the largest vessels, and is bordered by wooded hills. On the S. shore near 
the mouth is Kingston Creek, which leads S. in about 5 M. to Kingston (two 
inns), a sequestered village of 200 inhabitants, romantically situated among the hills 
in the centi-e of the peninsular parish of Kingston. This peninsula preserves an 
almost uniform width of 5-0 M. for 30 M. , between the Kenuebecasis Bay and river 
on the S. E. and the Long Reach and Belleisle Bay on the X. W. The scenery, 
though never on a grand scale, is pleasant and bold, and has many fine water views. 
A few miles E. of Kingston is the remarkable lakelet called the Ficktcaakeet, occu- 
pying an extinct cniter and surrounded by volcanic rocks. This district was origi- 
nally settled by American Loyalists, and for many years Kingston was the capital of 
Kings County. The village is most easily reached "from Rothesay (see page 22). 

Tennant's Cove is a small Baptist village at the N. of the entrance to the bay ; 
whence a road leads in 5 M. to the hamlet of Belleisle Bat/ on the N. shore (nearly 
opposite Long Point village) ; from which the bay road runs in 3-4 M. to the larger 
Baptist settlement at Spragg's Point, whence much cord-wood is sent to St. John. 
4 31. beyond is Springjjekl fsmall inn), the largest of the Belleisle villages, situated 
near the head of the bav, and 7 M. from Norton, on the Intercolonial Railway 
(Route 16). 

At the head of the Long Eeach a granite ridge turns the river to the N. 
and X. W. and narrows it for several miles. 4-5 M. above Belleisle Bay- 
Spoon Island is passed, above which, on the r. bank, is the shipbuilding 
hamlet of Wicl-Jiani. A short distance beyond, on the W. bank, is Hamp- 
stead, with several mills and a gi-anite-quarry. The shores of the river 
now become more low and level, and the fertile meadows of Long Island 
are coasted for nearly 5 M. This pretty island is dotted with elm-trees, 
and contains two large ponds. On the mainland ("W. shoi-e), near its head, 
is the hamlet of Otnabog, at the mouth of a river which empties into a lake 
3 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, connected with the St. Jolin by a narrow 
passage. The boat next passes the Lower Musquash Island, containing a 
large pond, and hiding the outlet of the Wa^hademoaJc Lake (see Koute 9). 

" This part of the Province , including the lands around the Grand Lake and along 
the Washademoak, must become a very populous and rich country. A great propor- 
tion of the land is intervale or alluvial, and coal is found in great plenty, near the 

Grand Lake No part of America can exhibit greater beauty or more luxiariant 

fertility than the lands on each side, and the islands that we pass in this distance." 
(McGregor's British America.) 

After passing the Upper ISIusquash Island, the steamboat rounds in at 
Gagetoicn (2 inns), a village of 300 inhabitants, prettily situated on the W. 
bank of the river. It is the shire-town of Queen's County, and is the shipping- 
point for a broad ti-act of farming-country. After leaving this point, the 
steamer passes between Grimross Neck (1. ) and the level shores of Cam- 
bridge (r.), and runs by the mouth of the Jemseg River. 

About the year 1640 the French seigneur erected at the mouth of the Jemseg a 
fort, on whose ramparts were 12 iron guns and 6 " murtherers." It was provided 



MAUGERVILLE. Route 8. 43 

with a court of guard , stone barracks and magazines , a garden, and a chapel ' ' 6 paces 
square, with a hell weighing 18 pounds." In 1654 it was captured by an expedition 
sent out by Oliver Cromwell ; but was yielded up bj' Sir Thomas Temple to the 
Seigneur de Soulanges et Marson in 1670. In 1674 it was taken and plundered by 
" a Flemish corsair." The Seigniory of Jemseg was granted by the French Crown to 
the ancient Breton family of Damour des Chaffour. In 1686 it was occupied by the 
seignorial family, and in 1698 there were 50 persons settled here under its auspices. 
In 1739 the lordship of this district was held by the Marquis de Vaudreuil, who had 
116 colonists in the domain of Jemseg. In 1692 it was made the capital of Acadia, 
under the command of M. de Villebon ; and after the removal of the seat of govern- 
ment to Fort Nashwaak (Fredericton), the Jemseg fort suffered the vicissitudes of 
British attack, and was finally abandoned. About the year 1776, 600 Indian warriors 
gathered here, designing to devastate the St. John valley, but were deterred by the 
resolute front made by the colonists from the Oromocto fort, and were finally ap- 
peased and quieted by large presents. 

The Jemseg River is the outlet of Grand Lake (see Route 10). Beyond 

this point the steamer runs N. W. by Grimross Island, and soon passes the 

hamlets of Canning (r.) and Upper Gagetown (1.). Above Mauger's Island 

is seen the tall spire of Burton church, and the boat calls at Sheffield, the 

seat of the Sheffield Academy. 

" The whole river-front of the parishes of Maugerville, Shefiield, and "Water- 
borough, an extent of nearly 30 M., is a remarkably fine alluvial soil, exactly re- 
sembling that of Battersea fields and the Twickenham meadows, stretching from the 
river generally about 2 M. This tract of intervale, including the three noble islands 
opposite, is deservedly called the Garden of New Brunswick, and it is by far the 
most considerable tract of alluvial soil, formed by fresh water, in the Province." 

Above Sheffield the steamer passes Middle Island, which is 3 SI. long, 
and produces much hay, and calls at Maugerville, a quiet lowland village 
of 300 inhabitants. On the opposite shore is Oromocto (two inns), the 
capital of Sunbury County, a village of 400 inhabitants, engaged in ship- 
building. It is at the mouth of the Oromocto River, which is navigable 
for 22 M. 

The settlement of Maugerville was the first which was formed by the English on 
the St. John River. It was established in 1763 by families from Massachusetts and 
Connecticut, and had over 100 families in 1775. In May, 1776, the inhabitants of 
Sunbury County assembled at Maugerville, and resolved that the colonial policy of 
the British Parliament was wrong, that the United Provinces were justified in re- 
sisting it, that the county should be attached to Massachusetts, and that men and 
money should be raised for the American service : saying also, " we are Ready with 
our Lives and fortunes to Share with them the Event of the present Struggle for 
Liberty, however God in his Providence may order it." These resolutions were 
signed by all but 12 of the people ; and Massachusetts soon sent them a quantity of 
ammunition. At a later day Col. Eddy, with a detachment of Mass. troops, ascended 
the St. John River to Maugerville, where he met with a warm welcome and was 
joined by nearly 50 men. 

Oromocto was in early days a favorite resort of the Indians, one of whose great 
cemeteries has recently been found here. When the hostile tribes concentrated on 
the Jemseg during the Revolutionary War, and were preparing to devastate the 
river-towns, the colonists erected a large fortification near the mouth of the Oromocto, 
and took refuge there. They made such a bold front that the Indians retired and 
disbanded, after having reconnoitred the works. 

" The rich meadows are decorated with stately elms and forest trees, or sheltered 
by low coppices of cranberry, alder, and other native bushes. Through the numer- 
ous openings in the shrubbery, the visitor, in traversing the river, sees the white 
fronts of the cottages, and other buildings ; and, from the constant change of posi- 
tion, in sailing, an almost endless variety of scenery is presented to the traveller's 
eye. During the summer season the surface of the water afibrds an interesting 



44 Route S. FREDERICTCN. 

spectacle. Yast rafts of timber and logs are slowly moTed downwards by the cur- 
rent. On them is sometimes seen the shanty of the lumberman, with his family, a 
cow, and occasionally a haystack, all destined for the city below. Numerous canoes 
and boats are in motion, while the paddles of the steamboat break the polished sur- 
face of the stream and send it ripphng to the shore. In the midst of this landscape 
stands Fredericton, situated on an obtuse level point formed by the bending of the 
river, and in the midst of natural and cultivated scenery."' (Gesxer.) 

Fredericton. 

Hotels. Barker House, Queen St. , $ 2 a day ; Queen's Hotel, Queen St. , $ 1.50 
a day. 

Stages leave tri- weekly for Woodstock (62 M. ; fare, §2.50) ; and tri- weekly for 
Boiestown and the Miramichi (105 M. ; fare, S 6). 

Railways. The European & North American (branch line) to St. John, in 
about 64 M. ; fare, S2. The New Brunswick Railway (narrow gauge), to Woodstock 
and Florenceville ; fare to Woodstock, S 1.75 (page 50). 

Steatnljoats. Daily to St. .John, stopping at the river-ports. Fare, § 1.50. 
In the summer there are occasional night-boats, leaving Fredericton at 4 P. M. 
When the river has enough water, steamboats run from Fredericton, 65 - 70 M. 
N. W. to Woodstock and Grand Falls. Ferry -steamers cross to St. Mary's at fre- 
quent intervals. 

Fredekicton, the capital of the Province of New Brunswick, is a small 
city pleasantly situated on a level plain near the St. John River. In 1871 
it had 6,006 inhabitants, with 4 weekly newspapers and a bank. It is 
probably the quietest place, of its size, north of the Potomac RiA-er. The 
streets are broad and airy, intersecting each other at right angles, and are 
lined with fine old shade trees. The city has no manufacturing interests, 
but serves as a shipping-point and depot of supplies for the young settle- 
ments to the N. and W. Its chief reason for being is the presence of the 
offices of the Provincial Government, for which it was founded. 

Queen St. is the chief thoroughfare of the city, and runs nearly parallel 
with the river. At its W. end is the Government House, a plain and spa- 
cious stone building situated in a pleasant park, and used for the official 
residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of New Brunswick. Nearly in the 
middle of the city, and between Queen St. and the river, are the IMilitary 
Grounds and Parade-ground, with the large barracks (accommodating 
1,000 men), which were formerly the headquartei's of the British army in 
this Province. They are now deserted, and are falling into dilapidation. 
Near the E. end of Queen St. are the Parliament Buildings, a group of in - 
ferior wooden structures, where the legislative bodies of the Province hold 
their sessions. The Library is in the brick building oh the E., and con- 
tains about 13,000 volumes. It is, however, open only on Wednesdays. 
The Council Chamber and Chamber of Commons are comfortable, but 
small and plain, halls; and the Law Library is also contained in this 
building. 

* Christ Church Cathedral is a short distance beyond the Paiiiament 
Buildings, and is embowered in a grove of fine old trees near the river 
(corner of Church and Queen Sts.). It is under the direct care of the 
Anglican Bishop of Fredericton, and its style of construction is modelled 



FREDERICTON. Route 8. 45 

after that of Christ Church Cathedral at Jlontreal. The beauty of the 
EngUsh Gothic architecture, as here wrought out in fine gray stone, is 
heightened by the picturesque effect of the surrounding trees. A stone 
spire, 178 ft. high, rises from the junction of the nave and transepts. The 
interior is beautiful, though small, and the chancel is adorned with a 
superb window of Newcastle stained-glass, presented by the Episcopal 
Church in the United States. It represents, in the centre, Christ cruci- 
fied, with SS. John, James, and Peter on the 1., and SS. Thomas, Philip, 
and Andrew on the r. In the cathedral tower is a chime of 8 bells, each 
of which bears the inscription : 

" Ave Pater, Rex, Creator, Ave Simplex, Ave Trine, 

Ave Fill, Lux, Salvator, Ave Regnuns in Sublime, 

Ave Spiritus Oonsolator, Ave Resonet sine fine, 
Ave Beata Unitas. Ave Sancia Trinitas." 

The Provincial Exposition Building is a spacious edifice on Westmore- 
land St., constructed in a singular variety of Saracenic architecture. It 
is used for great industrial and agricultural fairs every 3 or 4 yeai's. In 
this vicinity is the skating-rink^ and the railway-station is but a little way 
beyond, on York St. 

The University of Neio Brunswick is a substantial freestone building, 170 
ft. long and 60 ft. wide, occupying a fine position on the hills which sweep 
around the city on the S. It was established by royal charter in 1828, 
while Sir Howai'd Douglas ruled the Province ; and v,^as for many years 
a source of great strife between the Episcopalians and the other sects^ the 
latter making objection to the absorption by the Anglicans of an institu- 
tion which had been paid for by the whole people. It was faii-ly endowed, 
but has not yet reached an era of pi'osperity, probably because there are 
too many colleges in the Maritime Provinces. The view from the Univer- 
sity is pleasant, and is thus described by Prof. Johnston : 

" From the high ground above Fredericton I again felt how very delightful it is to 
feast the eyes, weary of stony barrens and perpetual pines, upon the beautiful river 
St John Calm, broad, clear, just visibly flowing on ; full to its banks, and re- 
flecting from its surface the graceful American elms which at intervals fringe its 
snores, it has all the beauty of a long lake without its lifelessness. But its acces- 
sories are as yet chiefly those of nature, — wooded ranges of hills varied in outline, 
now retiring from and now approaching the water's edge, with an occasional clear- 
ing, and a rare white-washed house, with its still more rarely visible inhabitants, 

and stray cattle In some respects this view of the St. John recalled to my 

mind some of the po^ints on the Russian river (Neva) : though among European 
scenery, in its broad waters and forests of pines, it most resembled the tamer por- 
tions of the sea-arms and fiords of Ssveden and Norway." 

St. Mary's and NashtvaaJcsis are opposite Fredericton, on the 1. bank of 
the St. John, and are reached by a steam-ferry. Here is the terminus of 
the New Brunswick Railway (to Woodstock) ; and here also are the great 
lumber-mills of Mr. Gibson, with the stately church and comfortable 
homes which he has erected for his workmen. Nearly opposite the city 
is seen the mouth of the Nashwaak River, whose valley was settled by 
disbanded soldiers of the old Black Watch (42d Highlanders). 



46 EouteS. FREDEKICTOK 

In tlie year 1690 the French government sent ont the Chevalier de Yillehon as 
Governor "of Acadia. "\Alien he arrived at Port Roval ^Aunapolis\ his capital, he 
found that Sir WiUiam Thipps's New-Eugland Heet liad rocontly captni-ed and de- 
Ptroved its fortifications, so he ascended the St. John River and soon fixed his capi- 
tal at Nashwauk, where he remained for several jears, organizing Indian forays on 
the settlements of Maiue. 

In October, 169li, an Anglo-American army ascended the St. John in the ships 
Aridicltl, Province, and others, aud laid siege to Fort Nashwaak. The Chevalier de 
Yillebon drew up his garrison, and addressed them with enthusiasm, aud the de- 
tachments were put in charge of the Sieui-s de la Cote, Tibierge, and Clignancourt. 
The British royal standard was displayed over the besiegers' works, and for three 
da\s a heavy fire of artillery and musketry was kept up. The precision of the fire 
from La Cote"s battery dismounted the hostile guns, and after seeing the Sieur de 
Faldse reinforce the fort from Quebec, the British gave up the siege and retreated 
down the river. 

The village of St. Anne was erected here, under the protection of Fort Nashwaak. 
Its site had been visited by De Monts in 1(304, during his exploration of the river. 
In 1757 (and later) the place was crowded with Acadian refugees fleeing from the 
stern visitations of angry New England on the Minas and Port Royal districts. In 
17S4 came the exiled American Loyalists, who drove away the Acadians into the 
wilderness of Madawaska, and settled along these shores. During the following 
year Gov. Guy Carleton established the capital of the Province here, in view of the 
central location and pleasant natural features of the place. Since the formation of 
the Canadian Dominion, and the consequent withdrawal of the British garrison, 
Fredericton has become dormant. 

7 M. above Fredericton is Aiikpaqtie, the favorite home-district of the ancient 
Indians of the river. The name siguifics " a beautiful expanse of the river caused 
by numerous islands."' On the island of Sandous were the fortifications and quar- 
ters of the American foi'ces in 1777, when the St. John River was held by the expe- 
dition of Col. Allan. They reached Aukpaque on the 5th of June, and saluted the 
new American flag with salvos of artillery, while the resident Indians, under Am- 
brose St. Aubin, their " august and noble chief," welcomed them and their cause. 
They patrolled the river with guard-boats, aided the patriot residents on the banks, 
and" watched the mouth of St. John harbor. After the camp on Aukpaque had 
been established about a month it was broken up by a British naval force from 
below, and Col. Allan led away about 600 people, patriot Provincials, Indians, and 
their families. This great exodus is one of the most romantic and yet least known 
incidents of the American borders. It was conducted by canoes up the St. John to 
the ancient French trading-post called Fort ^Meductic, whence they carried their 
boats, families, aud household goods across a long portage ; then they ascended the 
i-apid Eel River to its reservoir-lake, from whose head another portage of 4 M. led 
them to North Pond. The long procession of exiles next defiled into the Grand 
Lake, and encamped for several days at its outlet, after which they descended the 
Chiputneticook Lake and the St. Croix River, passed into the Lower Schoodic Lake, 
and thence carried their fiiuiilies and goods to the head-waters of the Blachias River. 
Floating down that stream, they reached Machiasi in time to aid in beating off the 
British squadron from that town. 



From Fredericton to the IliramicM. Through the Fo7'est. 

The Eoyal ]Man-stage leaves on i\Ionday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 
a very early hour, and the passenger gets breakfost at Eastman's, and 
sleeps at Frazer's. The trip requires 2 days, and costs $6 (exclusive of 
hotels), and the distance from Fredericton to Newcastle is 105 M. By far 
the greater part of the route leads through an unbroken forest, and the 
road leaves much to be desired. Afte^ crossing the feny at Fredericton 

1 3!ac7uas is snirt to be derived from the French word Jfncjes (meaning the Magi>, and it 
is held tliat it was discovered by the ancient French explorers on tlie Festival of the Magi. 



WASHADEMOAK LAKE. Route 9. 47 

the route lies due N. and is as straight as an arrow for 9 M., when it reaches 
Nashwaak Village (small inn); thence it follows the Nashwaak River for 
5 M., to the hamlet of Nashwaak, above which it enters a wild country 
about the head-waters of the river. To the W. are the immense domains 
of the New Brunswick Land Company, on which a few struggling settle- 
ments are located. In the earlier days there was a much-travelled route 
between the St. John valley and the Miramichi waters, by way of the 
Nashwaak River, from whose upper waters a portage was made to the 
adjacent streams of the Miramichi (see "Vacation Tourists," for 1862-3, 
pp. 464 - 474). At about 40 M. from Fredericton the stage reaches Boies- 
toicn (small inn), a lumbering-village of 250 inhabitants, on the S. W. 
Miramichi River. This place was founded in 1822, by Thomas Boies and 
120 Americans, but has become decadent since the partial exhaustion of 
the forests. The road now follows the course of the S. W. Miramichi, 
passing the hamlets of Ludlow, 52 M. from Fredericton ; Doaktown, 55 
M. ; Blissfield, 62; Dunphy, 73; Blackville, 79; Lidiantown (Renous River), 
87; Derby, 96; and Newcastle, 105 (see Route 15). 

9. Washademoak Lake. 

The steamer Star leaves St. John (Indiantown) on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sat- 
u ^T'^A*,. ^- ^- ^°^ ^^^'^'^ ^^^^'^^ ^°<1 *^e intermediate landings. The distance is 
about 60 M. ; the fare is $ 1. The boats leave Cole's Island on the return trip at 
Y.dU A. M. , on ^V ednesday, Friday, and Monday. 

The steamboat ascends the St. John River (see page 39) to the upper 
end of Long Island, where it turns to the N. E. in a narrow passage be- 
tween the Lower Musquash Island and the shores of Wickham. On either 
side are Avide rich intervales, over which the spring inundations spread 
fertilizing soil; and the otherwise monotonous landscape is enlivened bv 
clusters of elms and maples. After following this passage for l.V M., the 
steamer enters the Washademoak Lake, at this point nearly 2 M. wide. 
The Washademoak is not properly a lake, but is the broadening of the 
river of the same name, which maintains a width of from J M, to 2 M, 
from Cole's Island to its mouth, a distance of 25-30 M. It is deep and 
still, and has but little current. In the spring-time and autumn rafts de- 
scend the lake from the upper rivers and from the head-waters of the 
Cocagne, and pass down to St. John. The scenery is rather tame, being 
that of alluvial lowlands, diversified only by scattered trees. There are 
10 small hamlets on the shores, with from 150 to 250 inhabitants each, 
most of them being on the E. shore. The people are engaged in farming 
and in freighting cord-wood to St. John. About 6 M. above McDonald's 
Point, Lewis Cove opens to the S. E., running down for about 3 M. into the 
parish of Wickham; and 4-5 M. farther on are tJie Narroics, where the 
lake is nearly cut in two by a bold bluff projecting from the E. share. 
Cole's Island has about 200 inhabitants, and a small hotel. It is 20 M. 



48 F. cute 10. GKAXD LAKE. 

fi-om Apoliaqiii, en the Intercolonial Kailwny. Koad? mn acro?s the pe- 
ninsula on the X. W. to Grand Lake in 5-7 M. It is SS >L from Cole's 
Island to Petitcodiac, on the Intercolonial Kailway, by way of Brookvale, 
The Forks, and Xew Canaan. The "Washademoak region has no attrac- 
tions for the Slimmer tourist. 

10. Grand lake. 

The steamer 3Iat/ Queen leaves St. John (Indian town) on Wednesday and Satur- 
day at S A.M., for Grand Lake and the Sahuou Kiver. The distance is So M. ; the 
fare is S 150. She leaves Salmon River on Monday and Thursday mornings ; and 
touches at Gagetown in ascending and descending. 

Grand Lake is SO M. long and from 3 to 9 M. wide. It has a tide of 6 
inches, caused by the backwater of the St. John Kiver, thrown up by the 
hish tides of the Bay of Fiindy. The shores are Ioav and uninteresting, 
and are broken by several deep coves and estuaries. There are numerous 
hamlets on each side, but they are all small and have an air of poverty. 
It is reasonably hoped, however, that these broad alluvial plains will be- 
come, in a few decades, the home of a large and prosperous population. 

The lands in this vicinitj- were granted at an early date to the Sienr de Frcneuse, 
a young Parisian, the son of that Siour de Cliguancourt who was so active in settling 
the St. John vaUey and iu defending it ag-aiust the New-Englanders. On Charle- 
voix's map (dated 1744) Grand Lake is called Lac Freneuse , and a village of the same 
name is indicated as being a few miles to the N. These shores weiv a favorite camp- 
ing-ground of the ancient Milicete Indians, whose descendants occasionally visit 
Grand Lake in pursuit of muskrats. The lumber business, always baneful to the 
agricultural interests of a new country, has slackened on account of the exhaustion 
of the forests on the Salmon Kiver ; and it is now thought that a farming population 
will erelong occupy the Grand Lake country. 

The steamer ascends the St. John Eiver (see page 39) as for as Gage- 
tow7i, where it makes a brief stop (other landings on the lower river are 
sometimes visited). She then crosses to the month of the Jemseg (see 
page 43), where the Jemseg Kiver is entered, and is followed through its 
narrow, tortnous, and picturesque course of 4 M. This is the most inter- 
esting part of the journey. "When nearly through the passage the boat 
stops before the compact hamlet of Jevisec/, occupying the slope of a hill 
on the r. On entering the lake, a broad expanse of still water is seen in 
front, with low and level shores denuded of trees. On the 1. is Scotch- 
ioicn (150 inhabitants), near wbich is a channel cut through the alluvium, 
leading (in 2 M.) to Maquapit Lale, which is 5 M. long and 2-3 M. wide. 
This channel is called the Thorough fare ; is passable by large boats; and 
leads through groves of elm, birch, and maple trees. 1 'M. from the W; 
end of Maquapit Lake is French Lake, accessible by another " Thorough- 
fare," and 3-4 M. long, nearly divided by a long, low point. This hike is 
5-6 ]\I. from Sheffield, on the St. John Kiver. 

The channel is marked out by poles rising from the flats on either side. 
(The course of the steamer is liable to variation, and is here described as 
follov\-ed by the Editor.) Robinson's Point is first visited, with its white 



GRAND LAKE. Route 11. 49 

lighthouse rising from the E. shore; and the steamer passes around into 
White's Cove, where there is a farming settlement of 200 inhabitants. 
Thence the lake is crossed to the N. to Keyhole, a curious little harbor 
near the villages of Maquapit and Douglas Harbor. After visiting Mill 
Cove and Wiggin's Cove, on the E. shore, and Young's Cove (2 inns), the 
boat rounds Cumberland Point and ascends the deep Cumberland Bay, at 
whose head is a populous farming settlement. On the way out of the bay 
Cox's Point is visited, and then the narrowing waters at the head of the 
lake are entei-ed. At Newcastle and other points in this vicinity, attempts 
have been made at coal-mining. The coal district about the head of Grand 
Lake covers an area of 40 square miles, and the coal is said to be of good 
quality and in thick seams. But little has yet been done in the way of 
mining, owing to the difficulty of transporting the coal to market. 

Soon after passing Newcastle Creek the steamer ascends the N. E. arm, 
rounds a long, low point, and enters the Salmon River. This stream is 
ascended for several miles, through the depressing influences of ruined 
forests not yet replaced by farms. Beyond Ironbound Cove and the Coal 
Mines, the boat ties up for the night at a backwoods settlement, where the 
traveller must go ashore and sleep in a room reserved for wayfarers in an 
adjacent cottage. 

Brigg^s Corner is at the head of naTigation, and a road runs thence N. E. across 
the wilderness to Richibucto, in 50 -GO M. It is stated by good authority that the 
fishing in the Salmon River has been ruined by the lumber-mills ; but that very 
good sport maybe found on the Lake Stream, 15-20 M. beyond Brigg's Corner, 
Visitors to this district must be provided vrith full camp-equipage. A road also 
leads N. W. from Brigg's Corner (diverging from the Richibucto road at Gaspereau) 
to Blissville, on the S. W. Miramichi, in about 40 M. 

11. Fredericton to Woodstock. 

By the New Bninsioick Railway^ a new line which has been but recently opened 
to trade. It is a narrow-gauge road, and travellers who are not familiar with that 
principle of railway-building will be interested in observing the comparatively low 
and narrow, but comfortable cars ; the small locomotives ; and the construction of 
the bridges, the sharpness of the curves, and the steepness of the grades. 

The New Brunswick R.ailway is now completed to Florenceville, and is being 
graded to Tobique, whence it is proposed to construct a branch to Cariboo, 13 M, 
up the rich valley of the Aroostook. The company hopes that the line will be car- 
ried through to Riviere du Loup, on the St. Lawrence, at no distant date. 

Stations. Gibson; St. Mary's, 1 M. ; Douglas, 3; Springhill, ,51; Rockland 
10; Keswick, 12; Cardigan, 16i ; Lawrence, 17|- ; Zealand, 20; Stoneridge, 22^ 
Burnside, 25; Upper Keswick. 28i ; Burt Lake, 32; Haynesville,36i : Millville,38i 
Nackawic, 43 ; Falls Brook, 48 ; Woodstock Junction, 52 ; Newburgh, 57 ; R.iTer- 
eide, 60 ; Northampton, 61^. Fare from Fredericton to Woodstock, .$1.75. 

Beyond Woodstock Junction the New Brunswick Railway runs N. to Hartland (61 
M. from Fredericton) and to Florenceville (71 M.). The trains make connections 
with stages for Tobique and the upper St. John valley. 

The traveller crosses the St. John Eiver by the steam ferry-boat (5c.), 
from Fredericton to Gibson; and the terminal station of the railway is 
near the ferry-landing. As the train moves out, pleasant views are afforded 
3 D 



50 Route 11. FREDEEICTON TO WOODSTOCK. 

of the prosperons and happy settlements which have been founded here by- 
Mr. Gibson, the lumber-merchant. Glimpses of Fredericton are obtained 
on the 1., and beyond St. Mary's the Xashwaaksis Eiver is crossed. Then 
follows a succession of beautiful views (to the 1.) over the wide and placid 
St. John, dotted with numerous large and level islands, lapon which are 
clusters of graceful ti-ees. On the farther shore is seen the village of 
Springhill (see page 51) ; and the broad expanse of Sugar Island crosses 
the river a little way above. At about 10 ]\I. from Fredericton the line 
changes its course from W. to N. W., and leaves the St. John valley, 
ascending the valley of the Keswick, — a district which is beginning to 
show the rewards of the arduous labors of its eai-ly pioneers. The Keswick 
Valley was settled in 17S3, by the disbanded American-loyalist corps of New 
York and the Royal Guides, and their descendants are now attacking the 
remoter back-country. The KesAvick flows through a pleasant region, and 
has bold features, the chief of which is the escarped wall of sandstone on 
the 1. bank, reaching for 8 - 10 ]\E from its mouth. From Cardigan station 
a road leads into the old Welsh settlement of Cardigan. 

The line nest passes several stations on the old domain of the New Brunswick 
Land Company, an association which was incorporated by royal charter before 1840, 
and purchased from the Crown 550,000 acres in York County. Thej' established 
their capital and chief agency at the village of Stanleij, opened roads through the 
forest, settled a large company of people from the Isle of Skye upon their lands, and 
expended 8500,000 in vain attempts to colonize this disti-ict. 

The country now traversed by the line seems desolate and iinpromising, 
and but few signs of civilization are visible. This forest-land is left be- 
hind, and the open valley of the St. John is approached, beyond New- 
burgh. For the last few miles of the journey beautiful views are given 
from the high grades of the line, including the river and its intervales and 
sun-ounding hills. The terminal station is, at present, in a field about Ij 
M. from Woodstock, on the opposite shore of the St. John, which is here 
crossed by a primitive steam ferry-boat. 

Woodstock [American Eouse^ comfortable), the. capital of Carleton 
County, is situated at the confluence of the St. John and Meduxnekeag 
Eivers, in the centre of a thriving agricultural district. The population is 
over 2,000, and the town is favorably situated on a high bluft' over the St. 
John Eiver. The Episcopal Church of St. Luke and the Catholic Church 
of St. Gertnide are on Main St., where are also the chief buildings of the 
town. The academy called Woodstock College is located here. The 
country in this vicinity is very attractive in summer, and is possessed of a 
rich rural beauty which is uncommon in these Frovinces. The soil is a 
calcareous loam, producing more fruit and cereal grains than any other 
part of New Brunswick. The boldblufts over the St. John are generally well- 
wooded, and the intervales bear much hay and grain. There are large saw- 
mills at the mouth of the JMeduxnekeag, where the timber which is cut on 
its upper waters, in Maine, is made into lumber. 12 M. from Woodstock 



WOODSTOCK. Route n. 51 

is the American village oi Houlton, the capital of Aroostook County, Maine; 
and the citizens of the two towns are in such close social relations that 
Woodstock bears great resemblance to a Yankee town, both in its archi- 
tecture and its society. 

" Of the quality of the "Woodstock iron it is impossible to speak too highly, espe- 
cially for making steel, and it is eagerly sought by the armor-plate manufacturers iu 
England. On six different trials, plates of Woodstock iron were only slightly in- 
dented by an Armstrong shot, which shattered to pieces scrap-iron plates of the best 
quality and of similar thickness. When cast it has a fine silver-gray color, is singu- 
larly close-grained, and rings like steel on being struck. A cubic inch of Wood- 
stock iron weighs 22 per cent more than the like quantity of Swedish, Russian, or 
East Indian iron." (Hon. Arthur Gordon.) The mines are some distance from 
the village, and are being worked efficiently, their products being much used for the 
British iron-clad frigates. 

The N. B. & C. Railway runs S. from Woodstock to St. Stephen and St. Andrews 
(see page 36); fare, $2.90. The N. B. Railway goes S. E. to Fredericton ; fare, 
$ 1.75. Steamers run to Fredericton and to Grand Falls, when the river is high 
enough. Stages pass by the river-road to Fredericton semi-weekly, and daily stages 
run N. to Grand Falls, and also W. to Houlton. 

12. Fredericton to Woodstock, by the St. John River. 

During the spring and autumn, when there is enough water in the river, this 
route is served by steamboats. At other times the journey may be made by the 
mail-stage. The distance is 62 M. ; the fare is i 2.50. The stage is uncovered, and 
hence is undesirable as a means of conveyance except in pleasant weather. Most 
travellers will prefer to pass between Fredericton and Woodstock by the new rail- 
way (see Route 11). The stage passes up the S. and W. side of the river. The en- 
suing itinerary speaks of the river-villages in their order of location, without refer- 
ence to the stations of the stages and steamboats. 

Distances. —Fredericton to Springhill, 5 M. ; Lower French Village, 9; Bris- 
tol (Kingsclear), 16 ; Lower Prince William, 21 ; Prince AVilliam, 25 ; Dumfries, 32 ; 
Pokiok Falls, 39 ; Lower Canterbury,44 ; Canterbury, 51 ; Lower Woodstock ; Wood- 
stock, 52. 

On leaving Fredericton, pleasant prospects of the city and its Nash- 
waak suburbs are afforded, and successions of pretty views are obtained 
over the rich alluvial islands which fill the river for over 7 M., up to the 
mouth of the Keswick River. Springhill (S. shore) is the first village, 
and has about 250 inhabitants, with an Episcopal church and a small inn. 
The prolific intervales of Sugar Island are seen on the r., nearly closing 
the estuary of the Keswick, and the road passes on to the Indian village, 
where reside 25 families of the Milicete tribe. A short distance beyond 
is the Loioer French Village (McKinley's inn), inhabited by a farming 
population descended from the old Acadian fugitives. The road and river 
now run to the S. W., through the rural parish of Kingsclear, which was 
settled in 1784 by the 2d Battalion of New Jersey Loyalists. Beyond the 
hamlet of Bristol (Kingsclear) Burgoyne's Ferry is reached, and the scat- 
tered cottages of Lower Queensbury are seen on the N. shore. After 
crossing Long's Creek the road and river turn to the N. W., and soon 
reach the village of Lower Prince William (Wason's inn). 9 M. S. W. of 
this point is a settlement amid the beautiful scenery of Lake George, 
where an antimony-mine is being worked ; 3 M. beyond which is Magundy 
(small inn), to the W. of Lake George. 



52 Route 12. FORT MEDUCTIC. 

The road passes on to Prince William, through a parish which was 
originally settled by tlie King's American Dragoons, and is now occupied 
by their descendants. On the N. shore are the hilly uplands of the parish 
of Queensbury, which were settled by the disbanded men of the Queen's 
Eangers, after the Revolutionary War. Rich intervale islands are seen in 
the river between these parishes. Beyond Dumfries (small hotel) the 
hamlet of Upper Queensbury is seen on the N. shore, and the river sweeps 
around a broad bend at whose head is Pohioh, with large lumber-mills, 
3 M. from Allandale. There is a fine piece of scenery here, where the 
River Pokiok (an Indian word meaning "the Dreadful Place "), the out- 
let of Lake George, enters the St. John. The river first plunges over a 
perpendicular fall of 40 ft. and then enters a fine gorge, 1,200 ft. long, 75 ft. 
deep, and 25 ft. wide, cut through opposing ledges of dark rock. The 
Pokiok bounds down this chasm, from step to step, until it reaches the 
St. John, and affords a beautiful sight in time of high water, although 
its current is often encumbered with masses of riff-raff and rubbish from 
the saw-mills above. The gorge should be inspected from below, although 
it cannot be ascended along the bottom on account of the velocity of the 
contracted stream. About 4 M. from Pokiok (and nearer to Dumfries) is 
the pretty highland water of Prince William Lake, which is nearly 2 M. 
in diameter. 

Lower Canterbury (inn) is about 5 M. beyond Pokiok, and is near the 
mouth of the Sheogomoc River, flowing out from a lake of the same name. 
At Canterbury (Hoyt's inn) the Eel River is crossed; and about 5 M. be- 
yond, the road passes the site of the old French works of Fort Meductic. 

This fort commanded the portage between the St. John and the route by the upper 
Eel River and the Eel and North Lakes to the Chiputneticook Lakes and Passama- 
quoddy Bay. Portions of these portages are marked by deep pathways worn in the 
rocks by the moccasons of many generations of Indian hunters and warriors. By 
this route marched the devastating savage troops of the Chevalier de Villebon to 
many a merciless foray on the New England borders. The land in this vicinity, 
and the lordship of the MiUcete town at Sleductic , were granted in 1684 to the Sieur 
Cliguancourt, the brave Parisian who aided in repelling the troops of Massachusetts 
from the fort on the Jemseg. Here, also, during high water, the Indians were 
obliged to make a portage around the Meductic Rapids, and the command of this 
point was deemed of great importance and value. (See also the account of Allan's 
retreat, on page 46.) 

Off this point are the Meductic Eapids, where the steamboats sometimes 
find it difiicult to make headway against the descending waters, accel- 
erated by a slight incline. The road now runs N. through the pleasant 
valley of the St. John, with hill-ranges on either side. Lower Woodstoch 
is a prosperous settlement of about 500 inhabitants, and the road soon 
approaches the N. B. & C. Railway (see page 37), and runs between that 
line and the river. 

" The approach to Woodstock, from the old church upwards, is one of the pleas- 
antest drives in the Province, the road being shaded on either side with fine trees, 
and the comfortable farm-houses and gardens, the scattered clumps of wood, the 



FLORENCEVILLE. Route 13. ■ 53 

■windings of the great river, the picturesque knolls, and the gay appearance of the 
pretty straggling Uttle town, all giving an air of a long-settled, peaceful, English- 
looking country.''^ (Gordon.) 

13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Riviere du Loup. 

The pleasanter route to Grand Falls is by the steamboats, — small, light-draught 
craft, which scuttle up the rapids and over the shallows as long as there is enough 
water in the river (usually only during the springtime and autumn). 

The Royal mail-stages leave Woodstock at 6 p. m. daily ; supper at Middle Simonds 
(Mills's), 15 M. out ; breakfast at Tobique, at 4 A. M. ; reach Grand Falls at 8 a. m., 
and remain one hour; dinner at Belyea's, 18 M. beyond ; supper at Edmundston, 
and remain one hour ; breakfast at La Belle's, at 1 a. m., and reach Riviere du Loup 
in time for the morning train for Quebec or Montreal. The time between AVood- 
stock and Riviere du Loup is 36-40 hours. The New Brunswick Railway has been 
extended beyond AVoodstock Junction to Florenceville and Muniac, and stages con- 
nect with the trains at the latter station and run through to Tobique. The "railway 
will probably reach the latter point this year. Passengers leave Woodstock (North- 
ampton) at 8 a. m., change cars at Woodstock Junction, and reach Muniac about 
3.20 p. M. 

Distances. — Woodstock to "Victoria, 11 M. ; Florenceville, 24; Tobique, 50; 
Grand Falls, 75; Edmundston, 113; Riviere du Loup, 193. 

Fares. — By stage, Woodstock to Florenceville, $1.50; Tobique, $3; Grand 
Falls, $4.25; Grand Falls to Edmundston, $2.50; Edmundston to Riviere du 
Loup, $5. 

The road from Woodstock to Florenceville is pleasant and in an at- 
tractive country. "It is rich, English, and pretty. When I say Eng- 
lish, I ought, perhaps, rather to say Scotch, for the general features are 
those of the lowland parts of Perthshire, though the luxuriant vegeta- 
tion — tall crops of maize, ripening fields of golden wheat, and fine well- 
grown hard-wood — speaks of a more southern latitude. Single trees and 
clumps are here left about the fields and on the hillsides, under the shade 
of which well-looking cattle may be seen resting, whilst on the other hand 
are pretty views of river and distance, visible under fine willows, or 
through birches that carried me back to Deeside." (Hon. Arthuk 
Gordon.) 

Soon after leaving Woodstock the stage-road takes a direction to the 
N. E., keeping along the W. bank of the St. John Eiver. Victoria and 
Middle Simonds (Mills's Hotel) are quiet hamlets on the river, centres 
of agricultural districts of 5-800 inhabitants each. Florenceville (large 
hotel) is a pi-etty village, "perched, like an Italian town, on the very top 
of a high bluff far over the river." The road now swings aroiand to the 
N. W. and traverses the settlements of Wicklow. The district between 
Woodstock and Wicklow was settled after the American Revolution by 
the disbanded soldiers of the West India Eangers and the New Brunswick 
Fencibles. 

"Between Florenceville and Tobique the road becomes even prettier, 
winding along the bank of the St. John, or thi-ough woody glens that 
combine to my eye Somersetshire, Perthshire, and the green wooded part 
of southwestern Germany." There are five distinct terraces along the 



54 JRi>HtelS. TOBIQUK. 

v^iUev, showing tho gvxvloirical ohargvst in the lovol of the rivor, and tho 
banks' of the stream aiv cvnnix\?evl of ?^xnd and gt'avel. The interv-ale is 
usually narrow, and is broken tn\\uently by intrusive highlands. 

5 M. S, \V. of the river is Mai's Hill, a steep niountain about 1,200 ft. 
high, which overlooks a \-ast ex^vmse of foivst. This was one of the chief 
points' of cvHitrovei-sY during the old borvlei^tivubles, and its summit was 
cleai-cvl by the Commissioners of iTiH. The nxid now crosses the River 
des Chutes, at whose mouth are large saw-mills, near the site of an an- 
cient waterfall which has disi»ppeareil on account of the eiwion of the 
rooks. Above this point the country is less thickly settled, and the nvul 
pj\sses up i\ear the river. Perth village is seen on the K. shoiv, aiul the 
narrowing valleys of Victoria County aiv trswei-sed. 

Tohique v^^ewcomb's inn\ otherwise known as Andover, is pleasantly 
sitnatevl on the W. bank of the St. John, nearly opp^x<ite the mouth of the 
Tobiqiie Kiver. It has 400 inhabitants and 2 chuivhes, and is the chief 
depot of supplies for the lumbering-camps on the Tobiqne Kiver. ^Nearly 
opposite is a lax*ge and picturesque Indian village, cv^ntaining about 150 
persons of the Milicete tribe, and situated on the blutVat the continence of 
the ri^-ers. They have a valuable reser\-j\tion hoiv, and the men of the 
tribe engage in lun\bering and bojiting. 

Fort Fairfield (Fi>rt Fiurji.U HoM<fe^ is 7 M. N. W. of Tobiquo, and is »n 
Attiorioan bowloi^tovfii, with iXX^ iuhabUants, o chvuvho*. and s^^vvral .>^maU ti»o- 
tories. This town was settUxi hv won of New Kruuswu-k u\ ISIO, at which time it 
XN-*? suppostxi to tv inside the Yhwinoialline. A ivad initis tnnu Kort KaivtieUl S, AV. 
to PTt>stiiie Isle ( FVc'.-fij'K!' IsU Wsf!^, a villagv of about 1 aXX^ inhabitants, with -4 
ohnrehes, an academy, s*n-eral feotom\<, and a newsivH^x^r ^^the '• Ihw-svine Isle Sun- 
rise "">. This town is 42 M. N. of Uouiton, w\ the V'. S. militai-y rosul which i-uus 
to the XIada\N-5»ska district, and is one of the lYuti-es of the rich terming Uwds of thd 
Arvxvstook Vallev , parts of which are now oceupitxl bv J?we\.lish colonists. 

Fivni Tcbique to Bathursit. Tht\>u(!h the WiUcmess. 

Gxiides and canoes can b*-* obtaincvl at the Indian village ne(vr Tobiv\ue. About 
1 M. aK>Ye Tobiqne the voyagt^rs asivnd thn^ngh the .\»ir/i>e<\<, wheiv the rapid cur- 
rent of the Tobiqnc Kiver is contincvl in a winding cafun\ (1 M. KMig, 150 ft wivle, 
and 50-100 ft. dtvp) Wtween high Umestoite cUt^ Then the river biwndens out 
into a pvetty lake-like ivach, with ivunded and forest -coveiwl hills on cither side. 
The first iiight-camp is nsuallx- made high up on this reach. Two mojv i-apids aix> 
next pj\ssevl, and tlien comnunvces a stivtch of clear, deep water 70 M. long, Nt^r 
the foot of the r>:\»ch is the settlemei\t of J'-.'Ajfrt'fff', with about 4i.H^ inhjibitants. 
The Rtrd Rapids aiv 11 M ttviu the mouth of the river, and dtv^'ctnid bt»t>\tvn high 
shores- Occasional KwntifuUy woo^led islands aiv \\Hsst\l in the stn^am ; and by 
the evening of the secc>nd day the vvnagx^rs sliould rcjich the high rt\\ clitic at the 
mouth of the brvwd Wapskehegan Kiver. This Indian name signifies " a river with 
a w^U at its mouth," and the'sti-eam may Iv aswud^nl for IX^ M., tlirvnigh a ivgion 
of limestone Ixills and alluvial intervales'. The WajK-skeheg-an is 81 M.' above' tho 
mouth of the Tobique. 

Infrequent clearings, re^I cliffs vSlong the sliore, and blue hills more rtnnote, en- 
gage the attention as the canoe ascends still farther, ^xHSsing the hamlet of J>\K.<rfr*« 
Cov:r on the N. Kink, and ruuinng along the shows of Piiunoud and Long Island, 
44 M. up river is the Agnlquac Kiver, coming in fivm the E.. and n,HvJgable by 
canoes for 25 M. As the intei-valcs Ivyond this conrtuenct> aiv ixHSStxi, Uvasiional 
glimpses are gaincvi (on the r.) of the Blue Mts. and other tall ridgt^s. At 8l> M. 
fix>m the mouth of th« river, the canoe i'«j\ches The Fork-4: (4-5 davs h-om Tobi<iue^ 



NJCTOIt LAKE. lir/ule 13. 55 

The Campbell River hrrr« comefl In from th« E. and 8. E., from the great Tobiqne 
IjuMf, and other n-jnoU; wi)d«Trn;«ft-waU,-r« : the Momozeket (lhHcert<lH frrnn tim N. 
and from f,h'; N. W, cor/i/;H the Nict^/r, or Little 'J'obique River. It la a jroo'l 'lay's 
journey from the Fork« tx> (>j<lar ilrook, on the SlcU/r; and another (bxy c/,u(\ni;tM 
to the •Nlct«»r f^ake, *' p'/KW?«mng more U^auty of winery than any other I'x^ality 
/ have w;en In the I'rovinee, exwpt, ]>*;rhA]m. the Hay of ('Autlcur. CJ'^e to iUj 
Houthern ♦s'lge a (ifranit<! mountain ri«e« to a height of nrsarly 3/XXj ft., clotYn-A with 
wofKi t/i it« Hurnmit ex'rept where it hr<»ik« lnt/> pre^;iplc<:» of <lark r^xik or long gray 
Hhlngly f.lopeH. Other mountains of JexH height, hut in «ome caKeH of more pietur- 
ewjue fonn«, are on other f.hicn; and in the lake ltw;lf, in the «ha/low of the rnoun- 
fcfiin, 1« a little rwky i/ilet of moftt inviting apf^^^rance." It Uikf/A 2 - H houns to 
ajM;end the mountain (Bald, or Hagarn'Kjkj, whencfj " the view I.h very fine. The lake 
lle« right at our feet, — millions of acren of for*;Kt are uprea/l out h>efore uh like a 
map, Kinking and Kwelling in one <iark mantle over hillx and valieyH, whilst Katah- 
din and .MarH Hill in .Maine, Tr;u;adiega«h in Cana/ia, the H^juaw'H Cap on the 
Jt<;Htigouche. and (irccn .Mountain in Victoria, are all distinctly vi>-ihle." (Goedo.v.) 
From the hesi/J of .Victor f^ake a portage Ji M. ioni^ lea^lii t^> the NeplHlfnxit Lake, 
on whow! K. «hore iM the remarlbihle fKjak called .Mount Teneriffe, N<;ar the outlet 
1m a famouH camping-ground, where the fiHhing i« good and in wfaoBe vicinity deer 
and duckH are found 

Jt f.akeH ahout Hix days to descend the Nf.pixi(;uit River to the Great Falla, the 
larger part of the way heing through fon^ta of fir and between distant rarjges of 
hare granit*; hill«. 

Theie \n a J'rovincial highway which follow« the W. ohore of the Tobique River, 
and trjuche« the lower end of Mctor f.Jike, whence it run« N. and N. E. acro«s the 
iininhahitf^l valley of the L'psaifiuitch tu Campl>ellton, on the Be8tigouche. (See 
RfjuU; 14.) 



6 M. above Tobique i.s the moutb of the Aroostook River, which trav- 
erses a great area of northern Maine, and for the last 5 M. of its course is 
in Nevv'lJrunswick. It is not easily navigable on account of several rapids 
and the falls near Fort Fairfield; yet great quantities of lumber are floated 
down its current. There is a thriving village near the mouth of the river. 
7 M. farther N. the hamlet of Grand Falls Portage is jjassed, and the road 
leaves the St. John, which here begins a broad bend to the W. About 10 
M. above the Portage the steamboat or stage reaches Grand Folk (2 inns), 
otherwise known as Colebrooke. This town has about 700 inhabitants, 
and is picturesquely situated on a narrow peninsula near the cataract. It 
was formerly a fortified post of the British army, and is now the capital of 
Victoria County. It is hoped that large manufacturing interests will be 
developed here when the railway is completed from Woodstock to liivi^re 
du Loijp. Daily stages leave for Woodstock and for Pilviere du Loup; 
and steamboats descend the river during the brief seasons of navigation, 
'i'he environs of the village are remarkable for their picturesque beauty, 
and the view from the Suspension Bridge over the gorge of the St. John is 
worthy of notice. 

'i'he ** Grand Falls are near the village, and form the most imposing 
cataract in the Maritime Provinces. The river expands into a broad ba.sin 
above, affording a landing-place for descending canoes; then hurries its 
massive current into a narrow rock-bound gorge, in which it slants down 
an incline of G ft., and then plunges over a precipice of calcareous slate 



00 AV;..vi3. OKAXP FAIJA 

dS ft, high. The ?h5\pt> of the tall i? singular. j^ii\oe the water leaps firam 
the fr\nic and fivui bv^th sivle?, Avith minor and detjichevl oas^n^des over the 
onter ledges. Below the catai-act the river Avhirls and -whitens ibr j M. 
thrvnigh a rugg^l gorge 250 it. wide, Avhose walls of dark nx^k aiv fivm 
100 to 240 It. high. "It is a nai-row and frightful chasm, laslied by the 
troubled water, and excavated by boiling eddies and whirljxxvls always 
in motion; at last the water plunges in an immense fivthy sheet into a 
basin K'low, whex^ it becomes tranquil, and the stivam resumes its origi- 
nal featm-es.'* Within the goi"ge the xnver falls 5S tt. more, and the rug- 
ired shvnvs ai'e strewn with the wrecks of lumbei-ratts which have become 
entangled hei-^. The traveller slunild try to visit the Falls Avhen a raft is 
alx^ut j^asc^ing over. S-4 M. below the Falls is the dangeivus JRapkie d« 
Femme. Small steamers have been placeil on the river above the Falls, 
and have run as tar as the mouth of the St. Francis, Co M. distant. 

It is a tradition of tht> Micmacs that in a wnioto aj:«> two fitnulies of thdr tribe 
wejv on tho uvnvr St. John hvintinjj. and wtnv s^ni-vris^xt by a ^^■^^J^-v^'*»*^^■ '^t' th«» 
strai^w and diwndtxl Northern Indians. Tho lattor wow vU'sJooudinsj the rivor to at- 
tack tho lowor Miomao viUajivs, and t^rvt^l tho oaptniwl women to v^lot then* down. 
A tVw miles aK>Ye the tails they askevl tl\eir \iuwiUing gnidt\< if tho strt>am was all 
snxivth Wlow. and on iwoivin^i an atRrvnative answer, la*ht\l tho eanvxvs ti^wther 
into a raft, and wei\t to skv\\ exhausttxt with their nunn^h. When nt>ar the Oraud 
rails tho wonunx qnietly dropvH\l overboai>t and swam ashore, while the h^xstile wjup- 
riors. w\-avH^Ht in slmnbor, wviv swept vlown into the rapids, only to awaken when 
osoav>o was impossible. Their Kxiies weiv stripptxt by the Miomaos (.\u the river be- 
low, and the brave women weiv ever alterwvrvi held in t\igh honor by the tribe. 

Classing the St. John at Gi-and Falls, the stage ascends the E, bank of 
the stream, and soon enters the Acadian-Fivnch settlements and farming- 
districts. S-10 M. up the ivad is the village of *S^ Zcomi/x?, nearly all of 
Avhose people ai-e French; and on the American shoix? (f^^r the St. John 
Kiver is for many leagues the fivntier between the nations) is the simi- 
larly constitutCvl village of Van Bhiyh vtwo inns). This district is largely 
peopled by the Cyr. Yiolette, and Michaud families. 

The Hon. Arthnr Gorvioix thns describe* one of tht\<o Acadian hosaes ti««r Grand 
River (,iu 1S^>: " The whole .HsvHCt of the fju-m w.-us that of a metairit in Nor- 
mani^v ; the onter d<.x>x-s of the honse gandily v^'»lutt\l. the v^uxels of a ditfewnt 
color fivm the frame, — the hu-gv\ o^hhu nnoarjvftxl x\xun, with its bart> shiniuj* 
floor, — the lasses at the spiixning-whet'l. — the Fn^neh coc^tnme and app«.'«rauce of 
Madsune Violet and her sons and daughters, — all carrioil me back to the other sivlo 
ofthe AtLantio.'- 

Grand i?/iYr (Tarditrs inn) is a hamlet about 4 M. bevond St. Leonard, 
at the mouth of the river of the same name. 

The St. John Hivtr to thi JRestigouche, 

A rxiggxxl wilderness-jonrney may ht^ made on this line, bv ensxasjinsr Acadian 
gnides and oan^vs at tho Madawaska sottlemouts. ;w 4 wivks w'ill W snthoient time 
to ivaoh the Rhy ofOhalouv, with plenty ottishinj;' on the wav. On h\Hving the St. 
John the voyag^n-s ascend the Ouand Kiver to its tribntary . theWaapuisis." A ^HU't- 
.age of r>-t> M. fivui this snvam lends to the W,Hag:in. down wh(.\<e'nariv\v cnnvut 
the cjxnws tlixat thivngh the t\n\\<t nutil thelnwad Kt\>!ti^ciniche isentciwl (stH>Konte 
15 ; see .also Hon. Arthnr Gouiou in " Vacation Tonrists " for l^t52 - 1^. p. 477), 



MAD AW ASK A. Route 13. 57 

6 M. above Grand River is St. Basil (two inns), which, with its back 
settlements, has over 1,400 inhabitants. A few miles beyond are some 
islands in the St. John River, over which is seen the American village of 
Grant Isle (Levecque's inn), a place of 700 inhabitants, all of whom are 
Acndians. This village was incorporated in 1869, and is on the U. S. mail- 
route from Van Buren to Fox't Kent. Beyond the populous village of 
Green River the road continues around the great bend of the St. John to 
the Acadian settlement which is variously known as Madawaska, Ed- 
mundston, and Little Falls. There are about 400 inhabitants here, most 
of whom are engaged in lumbering and in agriculture. The town occupies 
a favorable position at the confluence of the Madawaska and St. John 
Rivers, and it is to be the objective point of the New Brunswick Railway 
(see page 50) during the year 1875. This is the centre of the Acadian- 
French settlements which extend from the Grand Falls to the mouth of 
the St. Francis, and up the Madawaska to Temiscouata Lake. This dis- 
trict is studded with Roman Catholic chapels, and is divided into narrow 
farms, on which are quaint little houses. There are rich tracts of intervale 
along the rivers, and the people are generally in a prosperous and happy 
condition. The visitor should ascend to the top of the loftily situated old 
block-house tower, over Edmundston, for the sake of the wide prospect over 
the district. 

This people is descemlod from the French colonists who lived on the shores of the 
Bay of Fundy and the Basin of Minas at the middle of the 18th century. When 
the cruel edict of exile was carried into effect in 1755 (see Route 21), many of the 
Acadians fled from the Anglo-American troops and took refuge in the forest. A por- 
tion of them ascended the St. John to the present site of Fredericton, and founded 
a new home ; but they were ejected 30 years later, in order that the land might be 
given to the refugee American Loyalists. Then they advanced into the trackless 
forest, and settled in the Madawaska region, where they have been permitted to re- 
main undisturbed. When the American frontier was pushed forward to the St. 
John River, by the sharp diplomacy of Mr. AVebster, the Acadians found themselves 
divided by a national boundary ; and so they still remain, nearly half of the villages 
being on the side of the United States. It is estimated that there are now about 
8,000 persons in these settlements. 

" It was pleasant to drive along the wide flat intervale which formed the Mada- 
waska Valley ; to see the rich crops of oats, buckwlieat, and potatoes ; the large, 
often handsome, and externally clean and comfortable-looking houses of the inhab- 
itants, with the wooded high grounds at a distance on our right, and the river on 
our left, — on which an occasional boat, laden with stores for the lumberers, with 
the help of stout horses, toiled against the current towards the rarely visited head- 
waters of the tributary streams, where the virgin forests still stood unconscious of 
the axe. This beautiful valley, with the rich lands which border the river above 
the mouth of the Madawaska, as far almost as that of the river St. Francis, is the 
peculiar seat of the old Acadian-French." (Prof. Johnston.) 

The American village of Madawaslca (two inns) is opposite Edmundston, and 
has over 1,000 inhabitants. The U.S. mail-stages run from this point up the val- 
ley of the St. John for 10 M. to another Acadian village, which was first named 
Dionne (in honor of Father Dionne, who founded here the Church of St. Luce) ; in 
1869 was incorporated as Dickeyville, in honor of some local statesman ; and in 1871 
received the name of Frenchville, " as describing the nationality of its settlers." 
From near Frenchville a portage 5 M. long leads to the shores of Lake Clevelandl, 
a fine sheet of water 9 M. long, connected by Second Lake and Lake Preble with 
Lake Sedgwick, which is nearly 10 M. long. 
3=^ 



58 Route 13. TEMISCOUATA LAKE. 

16 M. S. W. of Madawaska is Fort Kent, an old border-post of the U. S. Army. It 
has two inns and about 1,000 inhabitants (including the adjacent farming settle- 
ments), and is the terminus of the mail-route from Yan Buren. From this point 
stages run W. 20 M. to the Acadian Tillage of St. Francis, near the mouth of the St. 
Francis River. The latter stream, flowing from the N. "W., is the boundary of the 
United States for the next 40 M., descending through the long lakes called Wela- 
stookwaagamis, Pechtaweekaagomic, and Pohenegamook. Above the mouth of 
the St. Francis, the St. JohnEiyer is included in the State of Maine, and flows 
through that immense and trackless forest which covers " an extent seven times that 
of the famous Black Forest of Germany at its largest expanse in modern times. The 
States of Rhode Island, Connecticut, and Delaware could be lost together in ovir 
northern forests, and still leave about each a margin of wilderness sufiiciently wide 
to make the exploration without a compass a work of desperate adventure." Its 
chief tributary in the woods is the AUagash, which descends from the great Lakes 
Pemgockwahen and Chamberlain, near the Chesuncook and Moosehead Lakes and 
the head-waters of the Penobscot. 

The U. S. mail-stages also run S. from Fort Kent to Patten, about 100 M. S., near 
Mount Katahdin : whence another stage-line runs out to Mattaicamkeag, on the 
E. & N. A. Railway (see page S9), in 3S M. 8-10 M. S. of Fort Kent, by this road, 
is Lake TTinthrop (15 M. long by 1-3 M. wide), the westernmost of the great Eagle 
liakes, femous for their white-fish and burbot. 

At Edmundston the Eoyal mail-route leaves the St. John Elver, and 
ascends the "W. shore of the Madawaska. But few settlements are passed, 
and at 12 M. from Edmundston the Province of Quebec is entered. 
About 25 M. from Edmundston the road reaches the foot of the picturesque 
Temisconata Lake, where thei-e is a small village. The road is parallel 
with the water, but at a considerable distance from it, until near the 
U-pper part, and pretty views are afforded from various points where it 
overlooks the lake. 

Temisconata is an Indian word meaning " Winding Water," and the lake 
is 30 M. long by 2 - 3 ]M. wide. The scenery' is very pretty, and the clear 
deep waters contain many fish, the best of which are the tuladi, or great 
gray ti'out, which sometimes weighs over 12 pounds. There are also white- 
fish and burbot. Visitors to the lake usually stop at Foumier's old inn, 
where canoes may be obtained. From the W., Temisconata receives the 
Cabineau Eiver, the outlet of Long Lake (15 by 2 M.); and on the E. is 
the Tuladi Eiver, which rises in the highlands of Eimouski and flows down 
through a chain of secluded and rarely visited lakelets. The chief settle- 
ment on Temisconata Lake is the French Catholic hamlet of Notre Dame 
du Lac, which was founded since 1861 and has ISO inhabitants. The mili- 
tary works of Fort Ingalls formerly commanded the lake, and had a gar- 
rison of 200 men as late as 1850. 

" Temiscouata Lake is a fine large sheet of water, 20 M. long; it is 
deep, contains plenty of fish, and there are hills about it, down the valleys 
and ravines of which rush winds which occasion sudden and dangerous 
agitation in the dark waters." 

The road from Temiscouata Lake to Eiviere du Loup is 40-50 M. long, 
and descends through a wild region into Avhich a few settlers have advanced 
within fifteen years. 



SHEDIAC. Route U. 59 

14. St. John to Shediac. 

Distances. — St. John to Moncton, 89 M. : Painsec Junction, 97; Dorchester 
Road, 102 ; Shediac, 106 ; Point du Chene, 108. ' 

St. John to Painsec Junction, see Route 16. 

Passengers for Shediac and Point du Chene change cars at Painsec 
Junction, and pass to the N. E. over a level and unproductive country. 

Shediac {Kirh Hotel) is a marine village of 600 inhabitants, with 3 
churches, — Baptist, the Catholic St. Joseph de Shediac, and St. Andrew's, 
the head of a rural deanery of the Anglican church. The town is well 
situated on a broad harbor, which is sheltered by Shediac Island, but its 
commerce is inconsiderable, being limited to a few cargoes of lumber and 
deals sent annually to Great Britain. The small oysters ( Ostrea canadensis) 
of the adjacent waters are also exported to the provincial cities. Shediac 
was occupied by a French garrison in 1750, to protect the borders of 
Acadia, and in 1757 there were 2,000 French and Acadian troops and 
settlers here. The French element is still predominant in this vicinity, 
and its interests ai-e represented by a weekly paper called "Ze Moniteur 
Acadien.''^ 

Faint du Chene (Schurman's Point du Chene House) is 2 M. N. E. of 
Shediac, and is the E. terminus of the railway and the St. Lawrence port 
nearest to St. John. It has a village of about 200 inhabitants, with long 
piers reaching out to the deep-water channels. From this point passen- 
gers embark on the steamers for Prince Edward Island, the N. shore of 
New Brunswick (see Route 15), and Quebec and the Gulf Ports. Daily 
steamers run from Shediac to Summerside, P. E. I., where they make 
connections with the trains of the P. E. I. Railway (see Route 43). The 
Gulf Ports steamers ply between Point du Chene and Pictou, the time of 
transit being about 12 hours, and the route being down the Northumber- 
land Strait, with the red shores of Prince Edward Island on the 1. In the 
time-tables and circulars of the steamships and railways, the term Shediac 
is generally used for Point du Chene. 



The Westmorland Coast. Infrequent mail-stages run E. from Shediac by Point 
du Chene to Barachois, 8 M. ; Tedi3h,17; Great Shemogue (Avard's Hotel), 22; 
and Little Shemogue, 24. These settlements contain about 1,500 inhabitants, most 
of whom are Acadians. Capes Jourimain (fixed white light, visible 14 M.) and Tor- 
mentine are respectively 15 M. and 20 M. E. of Little Shemogue. 

10-12M. N. of Shediac (mail-stage daily) are the large and prosperous Acadian settle- 
ments of the Cocagnes (three inns), having about 1,500 inhabitants, seven eighths of 
whom are of French descent. These people are nearly all farmers, engaged in tilling 
the level plains of Dundas, although a good harbor opens between the villa2;es. 21 M. 
from Shediac is Buclouche (two inns), a prosperous Acadian village of 400 inhab- 
itants, engaged in shipbuilding and in the exportation of lumber and oysters. 



60 Route 15. RICHIBUCTO. 

15. The Bay of Chaleur and the North Shore of New 
Brunswick. 

The vessels of the Quebec and Gulf Ports Steamship Line, the Secret and the 
Mtramichi, leave Pictou every Tuesday morning at 7 o'clock, and Shediac (Point du 
Chene) every Tuesday evening at 7 (after the arrival of the St. John train). They 
then ascend the coast, leaving Chatham at 7 a. m. on TS'ednesday, XeTvcastle at 8 
A M. on Wednesday, and Dalhousie at 4 a.m. on Thursday (for Quebec). Returning, 
they leave Dalhousie at 9 p.m. on Thursday, Chatham at 4 p. m. on Friday, New- 
castle at 6 P.M. on Friday, Shediac at 3 a.m. on Saturday (connecting with the 
morning train to St. John), and arrive at Pictou at 1 p. m. on Saturday (connecting 
with the afternoon train to Halifax). These hours are liable to variation ou account 
of the weather, or if heavy freights are landed or taken at any port. The Gulf Ports 
vessels are larger and more commodious than that of the Xorth Shore Line, but they 
do not visit Ri'chibucto, Bathurst, or Campbellton. (See also Route .) 

The North Shore steamer City of St. John leaves Shediac (Point du Chene) every 
Thursday, on the arrival of the morning train from St. John, and calls at Richi- 
bucto, Chatham, Newcastle, Bathurst, Dalhousie, and Campbellton. Chatham is 
reached on Thursday evening, the Bay-of-Chaleur ports on Friday. The steamer 
leaves the Bay-of-Chaleur ports on Monday, and the Miramichi ports on Tuesday, 
arriving at Shediac Tuesday evening, and connecting with a late train for St John. 

Fares (North Shore LiueV — St. John (bv railwav and steamship) to Richibucto, 
S5; to Chatham and Newcastle, S6.50; to'Bathurst, 8 9 50; to Dalhousie, §10; 
to Campbellton, S 10.50. 

Distances from Shediac along the N. shore: To Richibucto, by sea, 38 M., 
bv land, 34 M. : to Chatham, by sea, 80 M., by land, 74 M. ; to Bathurst, by land, 
122 M. ; to Dalhousie, by sea, 220 M., by land, 175 M. Daily mail-stages run N. by 
Cocagne and Buctouche to Richibucto, Chatham, and Newcastle. 

The steamship leaves the long railway wharf at Point du Chene, and 
passes the low shores of Shediac Island on the 1. The course is laid well 
out into the Northumberland Strait. Between Shediac Point and Cape 
Egmont (on Prince Edward Island) the strait is nearly 20 M. wide. On the 
1. the harbors of Cocagne and Buctouche (see page 59) are soon passed. 
14^ M. X. of Buctouche are the low clitfs and lighthouse of Jtichibucto 
Head, beyond which (if the weather permits) the steamer takes a more 
westerly course, and enters the great Eichibucto Eiver, which empties its 
stream through a broad lagoon enclosed by sand-bars. 

RicMbucto {Kent Hotel) is the capital of Kent County, and occupies a 
favorable position for commerce and shipbuilding, near the mouth of the 
Eichibucto Eiver. It has about 800 inhabitants and 3 churches, and is 
engaged in the exportation of fish and lumber. The river is navigable for 
20 M., and has been a gi-eat highway for lumber-vessel?, although now tho 
supplv of the forests is wellnigh exhausted. The rubbish of the saw- 
mills has destroyed the once valuable fisheries in this river. In the region 
about Eichibucto are many Acadian farmers, and the hamlet of Aldouin 
Elver, 4 M. from the town, pertains to this people. Daily stages iiiu from 
Eichibucto to Shediac and to Chatham (see page 61). A road leads S. ^Y. 
through the wilderness to the Grand Lake district (Eoute 10). 

The name Richibucto signifies "the River of Fire," and the shores of the river 
and bay were formerly inhabited by a ferocious and bloodthirsty tribe of Indians. 
So late as 1787, when the American Loyalist Powell settled here, there were but four 
Christian fomihes (and they were Acadians) in all this region (the present county of 
Kent). The power of the Richibuctos was broken in 1724, when all their warriors, 



CHATHAM. Route 15. 61 

under command of Argimoosh (" the Great Wizard "), attacked Canso and captured 
17 Massachusetts vessels. Two well-manned vessels of Boston and Cape Ana were 
sent after them, and overtook the Indian fleet on the coast. A desperate naval battle 
ensued between the Massachusetts sloops and the Indian prize-ships. The Richi- 
buctos fought with great valor, but were finally disconcerted by showers of hand- 
grenades from the Americans, and nearly every warrior was either killed or drowned. 

After emerging from Richibucto harbor, the steamer runs N. across the 
opening of the shallow Kouchibouguac Bay, whose shores are low sand- 
bars and beaches which enclose shoal lagoons. 5 M. above Point Sapin is 
Escuminac Pointy on which is a powerful white light, visible for 25 M. 
The course is now laid more to the W., across the Miramichi Bay, and on 
the 1. are seen the pilots' village and the lighthouses on Preston's Beach. 
The entrance to the Inner Bay of Miramichi is between Fox Island and 
Portage Island, the latter of which bears a lighthouse. The Inner Bay is 
13 M. long and 7-8 M. wide, and on the S. is seen Vin Island, back of 
which is the Bay du Vin. Two centuries ago all this shore was occupied 
by French settlements, whose only remnant now is the hamlet of Portage 
Road, in a remote corner of the bay. 

When about 9 M. from the entrance, the steamer passes between Point 
Quart and Grand Dune Island (on the r.), which are 3| M. apart. 3-4 
M. farther on, the course is between Oak Point, with its two lighthouses 
(on the r.), and Cheval Point, beyond which is the populous valley of the 
Napan River, on the S. The hamlet of Black Brook is visible on the 1., 
and off Point Napan is Sheldrake Island, a low and swampy land lying 
across the mouth of the river. The vessel now enters the Miramichi 
River, and on the r, is the estuary of the Great Bartibog, with the beacon- 
lights on Malcolm Point. The Miramichi is here a noble stream, fully 
1 M. Avide, but flowing between low and uninteresting shores. 

Chatham ( Canada Hotel; Bowser's Hotel) is the chief town on the North 
Shore, and has a population of nearly 3,000, with 5 churches, a weekly 
newspaper, and a Masonic hall. It is 24 M. from the sea, and is built 
along the S. shore of the river for a distance of 1^ M, On the summit of 
the hill along which the town is built is seen a great pile of Catholic in- 
stitutions, among which are the Cathedral of St. Michael, the convent and 
hospital of the Hotel Dieu de Chatham, and St. Michael's College. These 
buildings, like all the rest of the town, are of wood. The chief industries 
of Chatham are shipbuilding and the exportation of fish and lumber, and 
the river here usually contains several large ships, which can anchor off 
the wharves in 6 - 8 fathoms. 

Daily stages run N. from Chatham to Bathurst, in 45 M., over a road which trav- 
erses one of the dreariest regions imaginable. About 22 M. beyond Chatham it 
crosses the head-waters of the Tabusintac River, " the sportsman's paradise," 
a narrow and shallow stream in which an abundance of trout is found. 

Semi-weekly stages run from Chatham N. E. to Oak Point, 11 M. ; Burnt Church, 
20 ; Neguac, 25 ; Tabusintac, 37 ; Tracadie, 52 ; Pockmouche, 64 ; Shippigan, 70 ; 
and Caraquette (Lower), 73. The first 80 M. of this road are along (or near) the N. 
shore of the Miramichi River and the Inner Bay, by the hamlets of Oak Point and 
Burnt Church. 



62 -P-:-f.- i5. THE MIRAMICHI. 

Burnt Clmrcli :? ?tn tho cspital of the Mwn^o IndJans of the PrPTinfe, a&d 
bei« thev cstbe r ir. jrrt^.: iiiimKTS on St, Anne's IVst ai-.d engspf in rel^'cwus rites 
smd athletic sycr:< sr.d dance*. Hon. Anhxir Gordon sa>-s:""I \v»s surprised by 
the curious resen-it^anoe K^tween thes^f dsiices snd tho^^of the Greek peasuitrT. 
Eren the costumes -were in sonie diKree simiisr. iuid 1 uotieed more thjui c«ie shcart 
colosred-siik jpscket and handkeiv-hfef-K->und he&d that carried me back to Ithaca 
and Paxo." (Vacation Torsisrs. IS^^ ) 

Tattusuitar vsniail inn"* is n«ir the mouth of the Tabusintac RiTer. and is a 
PresbTterian TiBace of aK-vut 400 inhabitants, most of vrhc«a are enptged in the 
fisheries. Many ^rge sea-tK>ut aiv caught ntxir the mouth of the river, and in 
October immense nxunbers of xrild geese and ducks ai>? shot in the adjacent lagoons. 

Tra«»die is a settioment -which contains 1.2C0 French Aoadians. and is situated 
n«ar a bmad ia4^.x>n ■which Eos inside a line of sand-bars. Sv%imon, cod, and herring 
ai^ found in the adjacent asters, and mo5t of the people ane engagevl in the fish- 
eries. The Th:.'-^,:!.' iL<::iT-:r:i-' is deroted to theiwepticsa of persons afflicted with 
the leprosy, whioh prevails to scaiie extent in this disuict, but has diminished since 
the gv?vernment secluded the leper? in this lemote hospital There is an old tradi- 
tionthat the leprosy -was introduced into this region during the last century, when 
a French vessel was" -wxvx-ked on the coast, some of whost^sailors were front Mar- 
seilles and had conrraored the true <r.V;v4dMr!a.jjV firtrniiri?: iFastern leprosy^ in the 
Levant. Irs perivtuaticn and hereditary tiansmission is attributovi to the clos»fness 
of the relation in which intermarriage is sanctioned among the Acadians ^sometimes 
by dispensation? from the Chuieh") 

' Poci-f^.ci.\'-.^ is a settlement of SCO Acadian fitrmers, and here the mail-route 
forks. — one road mnnirg M. N. E- to Shippigan (see page 64), the other run- 
ning 9 M. X. to Lower Caraquetre ,^see page 66*. 

r^y stages run iivni Chatham to Shediac (see page o9V also twice we^ly to 
Fredericton ."uid to Bathnrst. There aie two steamers weekly to Shediac. and one to 
Quebec. The river-steamer JN>fr Era runs up the river fovir tin^s daily to New- 
castle (6 M-K touching at IVuglastown. a dingy village on the X. bank, where much 
lumber is loaded on the ships which take it hence to" Europe. This village contains 
about 400 inhaJbituits, and has a marine hospital, bxiilt of stone. 

Kewcastle ( Wacerhii Hotel) i$ the capinil of Xortliumberland County, 
and is situated at the head of deep-water navigation on the Miramiohi 
Biver. It has about 1,500 inhabitants, and is engag^ed in shipbiiilding 
and the exportation of fish and lumber, oysters, and preserved lobsters. 
One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Kailvray -will be located here, 
and a branch line is to be built to Chatham, 

A short distance above Xewcastle, and beyond tlie Irish village of Nel- 
son, is the confluence of the great rivers kno>vn as the X. W. Minunichi 
and the S. W. Miramiehi. These streams are crossed by the lai^st and 
most costly bridges on the line of the Inteicoloni;\l Railway. The name 
Jfircunichi signifies "Happy Eetreat." and signifies the lore that tlie In- 
dians entertained for these fine hunting and fishing grounds. The upper 
waters of the rivers traverse wide districts of unsettled countn", and are 
visited by hardy and adventurous sportsmen, who capture large numbers 
of trout and salmon. This system of waters is connected by portages with 
the Xepisiguit, the Eestigouche, the Upsalquitch, tlie Tobique, and the 
Kashwaak Kivers. The best salmon-pools are on the S. W. Miramiehi, 
beyond Boiestowu, at the mouths of the Salmon, Kockv. Clearwater, and 
Burnt Hill Brooks. A tri-weekly stage runs from Xewcastle to Boies- 
town and Fredericton (see page 46), travei-^iug 105 M. of a rude and 
sparsely settled country. 



SHIPPIGAN ISLAND. Route 15. G3 

Beaubair^s Island is off upper Nelson, and was formerly occupied by a prosperous 
French town , but few relics of which are now to be seen. It was destroyed by a 
British naval attack in 1759. A colony was planted here in 1722, under Cardinal 
Fleury's administration, and was provided with 200 houses, a church, and a 16-gua 
battery. 

In 1642-44 the Miramichi district was occupied by Jean Jaques Enaud, a Basque 
gentleman, who founded trading-posts on the islands and entered also upon the 
walrus fisheries. But a contention soon aro.«e between Enaud's men and the In- 
dians, by reason of which the Basque establishments were destroyed, and their peo- 
ple were forced to flee to Nepisiguit. In 1G72, after the Treaty of Breda, several 
families from St. Malo landed on this coast and founded a village at Bay du Vin. 
From 1740 to 1757 a flourishing trade was carried on between the Miramichi country 
and France, great quantities of furs being exported. But the crops failed in 1757, 
and the relief-ships from France were captured by the British. In the winter of 
1758 the transport L'/nc/(enne, of Morlaix, was wrecked in the bay, and the dis- 
heartened colonists, famished and pestilence-stricken, were rapidly depleted by 
death. Many of the French settlers died during the winter, and were buried on 
Beaubair's Point. Those who survived fled from the scene of such bitter suffering, 
and by the arrival of spring there were not threescore inhabitants about the bay. 

In 1759 a British war-vessel entered the bay for wood and water, and the first 
boat's-crew which landed was cut off and exterminated by the Indians. The frigate 
bombarded the French Fort batteries, and annihilated the town at Canadian Cove. 
Then sailing to the N. E., the commander landed a force at Neguac, and burnt the 
Catholic chapel, the inhabitants having fled to the woods. Neguac is known to this 
day only by the name of Burnt Church. After this fierce foray all the N. coast of 
New Brunswick was deserted and relap.sed into a wilderness state. 

In 1775 there was an insignificant Scotch trading-post on the S. W. Miramichi, 
■where 1 ,500 - 1 ,800 tierces of salmon were caught annually. This was once surprised 
and plundered by the Indians in sympathy with the Americans, but in 1777 the 
river was visited by the sloop-of-war Viper and the captured American privateer 
Lafayette. The American flag was displayed on the latter vessel, and it was given 
out that her crew were Bostonians, by which means 35 Indians from the great coun- 
cil at Bartibog were decoyed on board and carried captive to Quebec. 

In 1786 the Scottish settlers opened large saw-mills on the N. W. Miramichi, and 
several families of American Loyalists settled along the shore. Vast numbers of 
masts and spars were sent hence to the British dock-yards, and the growth of the 
Miramichi was rapid and satisfactory. In 1793 the Indians of the hills gathered 
secretly and concerted plans to exterminate the settlers (who had mostly taken 
refuge in Chatham), but the danger was averted by the interposition of the French 
Catholic priests, who caused the Indians to disperse. 

In October, 1825, this district was desolated by the great Miramichi Fire, -which 
swept over 3,000,000 acres of forest, and destroyed $ 1,000,000 worth of property and 
160 human lives. The town of Newcastle was laid in ashes, and all the lower Mi- 
ramichi Valley became a blackened wilderness. The only escape for life was by 
rushing into the rivers while the storm of fire passed overhead ; and here, nearly 
covered by the hissing waters, were men and women, the wild animals of the woods, 
and the domestic beasts of the farm. 

On leaving the Miramichi Eiver and Bay the vessel steams out into the 
Gulf, leaving on the N. W. the low shores of Tabusintac and Tracadie, in- 
dented by wide and shallow lagoons (see page 62). After running about 
35 M. the low red cliffs of Shippigan Island are seen on the W. This 
island is 12 M. long by 8 M. wide, and is inhabited by Acadian fishermen. 
On the S. W. shore is the hamlet of Alexander Point, on Alemek Bay, 
opposite the populous village and magnificent harbor of Shippigan. There 
are valuable fisheries of herring, cod, and mackerel off these shores, and 
the deep triple harbor is well sheltered by the islands of Shippigan and 
Pocksuedie, forming a secure haven of refuge for the American and Cana- 
dian fleets. 



64 Route 15. BAY OF CHALEUR. 

Sliippigan Harbor, though still surrounded by forests, has occupied a prom- 
inent place in the calcvilations of commerce and travel. It has been proposed that 
the Intercolonial Railway shall connect here with a transatlantic steamship line, 
thus Avithdrawing a large portion of the summer travel from Halifax and New York. 
The distance from Shippigan to Liverpool by the Straits of Belleisle is 148 M. less 
than the distance from Halifax to Liverpool, and Shippigan is 271 M. nearer Montreal 
than is Halifax. 

The Ocean Ferry. — The following plan is ingeniously elaborated and pow- 
erfully supported, and 'is perhaps destined to reduce the transatlantic passage to 
100 hours. It is to be carried out with strong, swift express-steamers on the Ocean 
and the Gulf, and through trains on the railways. The itinerary is as follows : 
London to Valentia, 640 M., 16 hours ; Valentia to St. John's, N. F., 1,640 M., 100 
hours ; St. John's to St. George's Bay (across Newfoundland by railway), 250 M., 
8J hours; St. George's Bay to Shippigan (across the Gulf), 250 M., 15^ hours; 
Shippigan to New York, 906 M., 31 hours ; London to New York, 171 hours, or H 
days. It is claimed that this route would escape the dangers between Cape Race 
and New l''ork ; would give usually quiet passages across the Gulf ; would diversify 
the monotony of the long voyage by three transfers, and would save 4-6 days on 
the recorded averages of the steamships between New York and Liverpool (see maps 
and details in Sandford Fleming's " Intercolonial Railway Survey"). 

The steamer now crosses the Miscou Banks, and approaches Miscou 
Island, which is 20 M. in circumference and contains about 300 inhab- 
itants. On its S. shore is a fine and spacious harbor, which is much used 
as a place of refuge in stormy weather by the American fishing-fleets. 

Settlements were formed here early in the 17th century by the French, for the 
purpose of hunting the walrus, or sea-cow. Such an exterminating war was waged 
upon this valviable aquatic animal that it soon became extinct in the Gulf, and was 
followed into the Arctic Zone. Within five years a few walruses have been seen in 
the Gulf, and it is hoped that they may once more enter these waters in droves. At 
an early date the Jesuits established the mission of St. Charles de Miscou, but the 
priests were soon killed by the climate, and no impression had been made on the 
Indians. It is claimed that there may still be seen the ruins of the post of the Royal 
Company of Miscou, which was founded in 1635 for the pursuit offish and walruses, 
and for a time derived a great reveniie from this district. Fortifications were also 
erected here by M. Denys, Sieur de Fronsac. 

The steamer alters her com-se gradually to the W. and passes the 
fixed red light on Birch Point, and Point Miscou, with its high green 
knoll. Between Point Miscou and Cape Despair, 25 M. N., is the en- 
trance to the Bay of Chaleur. 

The Bay of Chaleur was known to the Indians by the name of Echetuam 
NemaacJie, signifying " a Sea of Fish," and that name is still applicable, 
since the bay contains every variety of fish known on these coasts. It is 
90 M. long and from 10 to 25 M. wide, and is nearly free from shoals or 
dangerous reefs. The waters are comparatively ti-anquil, and the air is 
clear and bracing and usually free from fog, affording a marked contrast 
to the climate of the adjacent Gulf coasts. The tides are regular and have 
but little velocity. The length of the bay, from Point Miscou to Camp- 
bellton, is about 110 M. These waters are visited every year by great 
American fleets, manned by the hardy seamen of Cape Cod and Glouces- 
ter, and valuable cargoes of fish are usually carried back to the Massa- 
chusetts ports. 



BATHURST. 



Route 15. Q^ 



- This bay was discovered by Jaques Cartier in the summer of 1535, and, from the 
fact that the heated season was at its height at that time, he named it La Baie des 
Chaleurs (the Bay of Heats). On the earliest maps it is also called La Baie des 
Espag7iols, indicating that it was frequented by Spanish vessels, probably for the 
purposes of fishing. 

In these waters is located the scene of the old legend of the Massachusetts coast, 
relative to Skipper Ireson's misdeed, which, with the record of its punishment, has 
been commemorated in the poetry of Whittier : — 



' Small pity for him ! — He sailed away 
From a leaking ship in Chaleur Bay, — 
Sailed away from a sinking wreck, 
With his own town's-people on her deck I 
' Lay by ! lay by ! ' they called to him ; 
Back he answered, ' Sink or swim ! 
Brag of your catch of fish again ! ' 
And oif he sailed through the fog and rain. 
Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart, 
Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart 
By the women of Marblehead. 



" Fathoms deep in dark Chaleur 
That wreck shall lie forevermore. 
Mother and sister, wife and maid, 
Looked from the rocks of Marblehead 
Over the moaning and rainy sea, — 
Looked for the coming that might not be ! 
What did the winds and the sea-birds say 
Of the cruel captain who sailed away ? — 
Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart, 
Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart 
By the women of Marblehead." 

When well within the bay the steamer assumes a course nearly S. W., 
leaving Miscou and Shippigan Islands astern. The broad Caraquette Bay 
is on the S., and the New-Bandon shores (see page 66) are followed into 
Nepisiguit Bay. The harbor of Bathurst is entered by a strait two cables 
wide, between Alston Point and Carron Point, on the former of which 
there are red and white beacon-lights. 

Bathurst {Bay Vieiv Hotel) is the capital of Gloucester County, and has 
about 600 inhabitants. It is favorably situated on a peninsula in the har- 
bor, 2^ M. from the bay, and is connected by a bridge with the village of 
St. Peter's. Large quantities of fish are sent hence to the American cities 
during the summer; and the exportation of frozen salmon has become an 
important business. The Intercolonial Railway has a station near Bathurst, 
which will probably be one of its chief ports on this bay. The beautiful 
Basin of Bathurst receives the waters of four rivers, and its shores are 
already well populated by farmers. 

The Basin of Bathurst was called by the Indians WinkapiguwicJc, or Nepisiguit, 
signifying the " Foaming Waters." It was occupied in 1638 by M. Enaud, a wealthy 
Basque gentleman, and his retainers, forming a town called St. Pierre. Enaud mar- 
ried a Mohawk princess, founded mills , and established an extensive fur-trade, erect- 
ing a commodious mansion at Abshaboo (Coal Point), at the mouth of the Nepisiguit, 
But some family troubles ensued, and Madame Enaud's brother slew her husband, 
after which the French settlements were plundered by the Indians, and such of the 
inhabitants as could not escape by way of the sea were massacred. 

By 1670 the Chaleur shores were again studded with French hamlets, and occu- 
pied by an industrious farming population. In 1692 the Micmacs confederated 
against them, and, under the command of the sagamore Halion, completely devas- 
tated the whole district and compelled the settlers to fly to Canada. Thenceforward 
for 74 years this country was unvisited by Europeans, In 1764: a Scotch trading- 
post and fort was erected at Alston Point, on the N. shore of Bathurst harbor, and 
thence were exported great quantities of furs, mpose-skins, walrus hides and tusks, 
and salmon. In 1776 this flourishing settlement was destroyed by American priva- 
teers, which also devastated the othgr shores of Chaleur. The present town was 
founded in 1818 by Sir Howard Douglas, and was named in honor of the Earl of 
Bathurst. 

The Nepisiguit River empties into Bathurst harbor, and is famous for 
its fine fishing (it is now leased). A road ascends thp "^^ bank for about 



GG Ec::tcl5. CAEAQUEITE, 

So M^ passing the Kotigh Waters, the brilliant rapids of the Pabineaw Falls 

(? M. \ip\ the darkxHx^ls of the Botjiboo ivach, the Chain of EoclvS, and 
the Xarrvnvs. The * Grand Falls of the ^Nopisiguit ai\^ 20 M. above 
Bathurst, and oonsii^t of 4 distinct and stoi>-liko clirtV, with a total height 
of 140 rt, Thoy aro at the head of the Xarixnv!?, Avhovo the river flows for 
S - 4 M. thixnigh a canon between high clitVs of slaty rock. The river boldly 
takes the leap over this Titanic stairway, and the ensuing ro:\r is deafen- 
ing, while the base of the clitV is shrvnided in Avhite spn\y. Fivm the pro- 
fonnd depths at the foot the river whirls aAvay in a black and foani-tlecked 
course for 2 M. The descent of timber over the Falls attbrvls an exciting 
speoti\cle, and the logs aiv souietimes sliot out clear beyond the lower 
terraces and alight in the pool below. 

" Good by, lovely Nopisigiut, stiwuit cvf the beaiitiftil pools, the fishomian's 
olT^iiui\; fiCiv-woU to tl\.Y merry, noisy ourwnt, thj- Ions: nuiet stK?tohes. thy high 
blutYs, thy woovltxl and thy rvvk>- shoivs. Long may thy mnsio lull tho iuno^vxit 
:mgler into day-«.iivjuus of happiuoss. Long may thy nmiantio stvnory charm the 
eyo and gladdou tho heart of the artist, and welev>me the angler to a happy sylvau 
home." iKoosKVKLT."^ 

Tho * Grtiiiti Falls of the Tete-A-gonohe Kiver are abont S M. W. of Bjithnrst, and 
may be visited by carriage. The river here MLs about 80 ft., amid a wild confusion 
of rocks and cliffis. 

Tri-weekly stages run F. from Bathurst to Salmon Beach, S M. ; James- 
ville, 12: Clitton, 15: Xew Bandon, 20: Pockshaw, 23: Grand Anse, 2S; 
Upper Caraqnette, SO: Lower Caraqnette, 43: Shippipm, 60. Faiv to 
Oaraquette, S 3.50. This ivad follows the shores of the Xepisiguit Bay and 
the Bay of Clvidenr for nearly SO M. The hamlets of Cliffoti ^small inn) 
and Xitc Bi^ndon woi-e settled by Irish imniigr;\nts, and are now engaged 
in making grindstones. PockshaAv has tni inn and about 000 inhabitants. 
Grand Anse is an Acadian settlen\ent, and has 700 inhabitants, who are 
engtiged in tanning :md tishiug. Thence the ivad runs 8 M. S. F, to Upper 
Cai^tiuttt^, Avlwre there are about 000 Acadians. Loictr Coraqu^tte (two 
inns) is a Ftvnch village of 1,500 inhabitants, and is tamons for its strong, 
swit\ boats and skilful mariikrs. 

Caraquette vras founded in 170S by a colony of Bretons, and owed a pjirt of its 
early growth to intermarriages with the Miomacs. It is a long stivet of farms iu the 
old Acadian style, and is situated in a fruitful and welU'ultivatovl country. The 
view from the hills orer the village, and espei'ially from the still vcncraU\l spot 
whore the old cha^vl stood, is very pU-asjuit, and includes Miscou and S^hippigim, 
the Gaspe ports, and tho bold QvioKv shores. The .lei-sev house of Kobiu & Co, 
h;vs one of its fishing-establishments here, and does a larsre business. 

Caraquette is ouo of the chief stations of the N. shore fishei-ies. In tho year 1S7S 
the tish product of tho thivo lower Maritime Provinces amouut*Hi to tho >-alue of 
S9.lHV.342. Nov:\ Scotia caught $0.r>77.lV^0 worth of fish; and Now Brunswick 
caught S 2.2S5.Gik> worth, of which ?! 527.312 worv of salmon. S500,aX^ of herrinsr. 
S34o.i>2o of lobsters. § o;^,(.W of civlfish. S10S.-514 of alewivcs. SiX\lXvJ of hake, 
;? 1^.300 of poUcvk. 5^ 45.4S0 of oysters. 8 41.S51 of smelt, and 8 35.477 of mackerel. 

P.uly stages run S. fixnu Bathurst to Chatham (see p:\ire 01). Tri-woeklv stages 
follow tho coast of tho l^ty of Chaloitr to tho N. W. to XUxliseo ; R(.x>hette", 12 M. ; 
Bellevlmie. 2i.>; Belledune River. 24: Armstrvnvg's Brook. 28: Kiver Louison. SS; 
Now Mills. SS: River Charlo. 44: and Palhousie. 52. Mo^list>o and Rivhotto an> 
French villages ; the others {u>? of British origin, and none of them have as many 



DALHOUSIE. nnutelO. 67 

as 500 inhabitants. Many small streams en tor the bay from this coast and tho 
whole diHtnct 18 tamous for its fishing and hunting (water-fowl). The 1 ne of this 
shore is lollowed by the Intercolonial Railway. i "- "u^- oi inis 

Off Bathurst the Bay of Chaleur is over 25 M. wide, and the steamer 
passes out and takes a course to the N. W., passing the hamlet of Rochette, 
and soon rounding Belledune Point. The imposing highlands of the Gas- 
pesian peninsula are seen on the N. with the peak of Tracadiegash. The 
passage between Tracadiegash Point and Heron Island is about'r M. wide; 
and 6-8 M. beyond the steamer pa.sses Maguacha Point {Mayuacha, In- 
dian for "Always Red") on the r., and enters the liestlgouche Harbor. 

"To the person approaching by steamer from the sea, is presented one of the 
most superb and fascinating panoramic views in Canada. The whole recion is 
mountainous and almost precipitous enough to be alpine ; but its grandeur is 
derived e.ss from cliffs, chasms, and peaks, than from far-reaching sweeps of out- 
line, and continually rising domes that mingle with the clouds. On the Gasn^ 
Bide precipitous cliffs of brick-red sandstone fl;ink the shore,' so loftv that thev 
seem to cast their gloomy shadows half-way across the Bay, and yawninir with 
ritts and gullies, through which fretful torrents tumble into the sea. Behind 
them the mountains rise and fall in long undulations of ultramarine and tow- 
ering above thom all, is the famous peak of Tracadiegash flashing in the sunlicht 
hke a pale blue amethyst." (IIallock.) Huniignc 

Dalhousie {Fraser's Hold) is a village of 600 inhabitants, situated at 
the mouth of the long estuary of the liestigouche, and is the capital of 
Restigouche County. It ftices on the harbor from three sides, and has 
great facilities for commerce and for handling lumber. The manufacture 
and exportation of lumber are here carried on on a large scale; and the 
town is also famous for its shipments of lobsters and salmon. The salmon 
fisheries in this vicinity are of great value and productiveness. The line 
of the Intercolonial Railway is about 4 M. S. of Dalhousie. The site of 
this port was called Sickadomec by the Indians. 50 years ago there were 
but two log-houses here, but the district was soon occupied by hardy 
Highlanders from Arran, whose new port and metropolis was "located in 
an alpine wilderness." Directly back of the village is ML Dalhousie, 
and the harbor is protected by the high shores of Dalhousie Island. Bol 
nami Point is at the entrance of the harbor, and has a fixed white light; 
and Fleurant Point is opposite the town, across the estuary. 

S l^^^^y ^i Chaleur preserves a river-like character for some distance from the 
point where the river may strictly be said to terminate, and certainly offers the 

most beautiful scenery to be seen in the Province From Mr Fraser's to fho 

sea a distance of some 20 M. by water, or 14 by land, the course of the river is ' 
really beautiful. Swollen to dimensions of majestic breadth, it flows calmly on 
among picturesque and lofty hills, undisturbed by rapids, and studded with in^ 
numerable is ands covered with the richest growtli of elm and maple. The 

whole of the distance from Campbellton to Dalhousie, a drive of 20 M. along the coast 
vLJ ..?Zo H^^^^"""' *f '^^.«^^?l^?t high-road, presents a succession of beautiful 
views across the narrow bay, in which Tracadiegash, one of the highest of the Gasn^ 
Sro^noSe dSu?"*"" ,-,,-°«I--us object: jutting forward aVit does in^otEe 
sea opposite Dalhousie." (Hon. Arthur Gordox.) 

the KiinL'L" ''^ T^*"*^ the grandeur and beauty of the approach to the estuary of 
snSw^fnf ,m;u- f-P^'°*'^l^^^ *^« background, the deep green forest with 

Its patches of cultivation, and the clear blue of the distant mountams, form a pic- 
ture of the most exquisite kind." (Sir R. Bonnycastle ) ' ^ 



GS Tunde 15. CAMPBELLTOX. 

"The expanse of three miles across the month of the Kestigouche, the dreamy 
alpiue laud beyond, and the bro;id plain of the Bay of Ohalenr, pivseut one of the 
most splendid and fasoinarinir panorauiio pvospivts to be found on the continent of 
America, and has alone ivwarded ns for the pilgrimage we have made." (Charles 
Lanm.vx.) 

The estuary of the Ke?tigonohe is 2-4 M. Avide, and extends from Dal- 
housie to Cauipbellton, about 16 M. Point a la Garde is 9 M. above Dal- 
liousie on the X. shore, and isaboki perpendicular promoutory overlooking 
the harbor. On this and Batterif Point (the next to the W.) Avere the 
extensive Fivnch fortifications which "were destroyed by Admiral Byron's 
British squadi-on in 17S0. Several pieces of artillery and other relics have 
been obtained from the water off these points. Battery Point is a rocky 
pivmontory SO ft. high, with a plain on the top, and a deep channel around 
its shores. Point Pleasant is 4 M. distant, and 1 M. back is a spii-al mass 
of granite 700 t^. -high, which is accessible by natural steps on the E. 1^ 
M. from this peak is a pretty forest-lake, in which red trout are abundant. 
5 M. X. of Point a la Garde is the main peak of the Scauuieuac 3Its., Avhich 
attains an altitude of 1,745 tt. 

Campbellton (.three hotels) is situated in a diversified region of hills at 
the head of deep-water navigation on the Kestigouche, which is hei-e 1 M. 
wide. It has about 600 inhabitants and deals chiefly in the exportation 
of lumber and fish. One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Railway 
is located here. The acljacent country is highly picturesque, and is studded 
with conical hills, the chief of Avhich is Sugar Loaf, SOO tT:. high. 

Jfission Point is nearly opposite Campbellton, and is surrounded by fine 
hill-scenery, which has been likened to that of Wales. The river is rapid 
otf these shores, and abounds in salmon. This place is also known as 
Point-ii-la-Croix, and is one of the chief villages and reservations of the 
Micmac Indians. It has about 500 inhabitants, with a Catholic church. 

The Micmac language is said to be a dialect of the Huron tongue : while the Mili- 
cetes, on the St. John River, speak a dialect of Delaware origin. These two tribes 
have an annual council at Mission Point, at which delegates from the Penobscot 
Indians are in attendance. The Micmac nation occiipies the waste places of the 
Maritime Provinces, from Newfoundland to Gaspe. and numbers over 6.000 souls. 
These Indians ai-e daring and tireless hunters and fishermen, and lead a life of con- 
stant i\->ving. g-athering" annually at the local capitals, — Chapel Island, in Cape 
Bi-eton: Ponheok Li^ke.in Nova Scotia : and Mission Point, in Quebec. They are 
increasing steadily in nimibers. and are becoming more valuable members of the 
Canadian" nation." They have hardly yet recovered from the terrible defeat which 
was intlictevi on them by an invading army of Mohawks, in It^oi*. The flower of the 
Maritime tribes hastened to the border to repel the enemy, but they were met by 
the Mohawks in the Kestigouche country, and were annihilated on the field of 
battle. 

The chief of the Micmacs at Mission Point visited Queen Victoria in ISoO.and was 
kindly welcomed and receive^.! many presents. When Lord Aylmer, Governor-Gen- 
enU of Canada, visited Gaspe. he wss wtxited on by 50O Indians, whose chief made 
him a long harangue. But the tribe had recently recovered from a wreck (among 
other things'! a bos of decanter-labels, marked Kitm^ Branpt. Gix.etc, and the noble 
chief, not "knowing their purport, had adorned his ears and nose with them, and 
Siurrounded his head with a crown of the Sixnie materials. AVhen the British officers 
recognized the famiUar names, they burst into such a peal of laughter as drove the 
astonished and incensed chief from their presence forever. 



RESTIGOUCHE EIVER. Route 15. 69 

3 M. above Mission Point is Point au Bourdo, the ancient site of La 
Petite Rochelle, deriving its present name from Capt. Bourdo, of the French 
frigate Marchault, who was killed in the battle off this point and was 
buried here. Fragments of the French vessels, old artilleiy, camp equip- 
ments, and shells have been found in great numbers in this vicinity. 

In 1760 Restigouche was defended by 2 batteries, garrisoned by 250 French regu- 
lars, 700 Acadians, and 700 Indians ; and in the harbor lay the French \Yar-Tessel3 
Marchault, 32, Bie7ifaisant , 22, and Marquis Marloye, 18, with 19 prize-ships wJiich 
had been captured from the English. The place was attacked by a powerful British 
fleet, consisting of the Fame, 74, Dorsetshire, Scarborough, Achilles, and Repulse, all 
under the command of Commodore John Byron (grandfather of the poet. Lord By- 
ron). But little resistance was attempted; and the French fleet and batteries sur- 
rendered to their formidable antagonist. The captured ships were carried to Louis- 
bourg, and the batteries and the 200 houses of Restigouche were destroyed. 

The Restigouche River is a stately stream which is navigable for 135 
M. above Campbellton. It runs through level lands for several miles above 
its mouth, and then is enclosed between bold and rugged shores. There 
are hundreds of low and level islands of a rich and yearly replenished soil; 
and above the Tomkedgwick are wide belts of intervale. 30 M. from its 
mouth it receives the waters of the Metapedia River, flowing down from 
the Metis Mts. ; and 35 M. from the mouth is the confluence of the trout- 
abounding Upsalquitch. 21 M. farther up is the mouth of the Patapedia; 
and 20 M. beyond this point the Tomkedgwick comes in from the N. "W. 
This system of waters drains over 6,000 square miles of territory'', and is 
connected by portages with the streams which lead into the Bay of Fundy 
and the River St. Lawrence. 

Campbeliton to the St. Lawrence River. 

The Metapedia Road leaves the N. shore of the Restigouche a few miles 
above Campbellton, and strikes through the forest to the N. W. for the St. 
Lawrence River. This is the route of the new Intercolonial Railway, 
■which passes up through the wilderness to St. Flavie. The distance from 
Campbellton to St. Flavie is 111 M., and the fare by stage is $ 9. This 
road leads across the barren highlands of Gaspe, and through one of the 
most thinly settled portions of Canada. 

The French hamlet of 8t. Alexis is near the mouth of the Metapedia 
River. Metapedia is 15 M. above Campbellton, and is situated amid the 
pretty scenery at the confluence of the Metapedia and Restigouche Rivers. 
The salmon-fisheries in this vicinity attract a few enthusiastic sportsmen 
every year. Near the confluence is the old Fraser mansion, famous among 
the travellers of earlier days. The Intercolonial Railway crosses the Resti- 
gouche in this vicinity, and has a station at Metapedia. 60 M. beyond this 
village is the Metapedia Lake. 

The Metapedia Lake is 12 M. long by 2 M. wide, and is surrounded by 
low shores of limestone, above and beyond which are distant ranges of 
highlands. Its waters abound in tuladi (gray trout), trout, and white-fish, 



70 Route 16. ST. JOHN TO HALIFAX. 

and afford good sporting. The lake contains a large island, -whicli is a 
favorite breeding-place of loons. 

St. Flavie (two inns) is a village of 450 French people, situated on the 
S. shore of tiie Eiver St. Lawrence, and is the. point whei-e the Intercolonial 
Eaihvay reaches the river and turns to the S. W. towards Quebec. It is 
distant from Campbellton, 111 ]M. ; from Father Point, 15 M. ; from Eiviere 
du Loup, 76 M. ; and from Quebec, 201 M. 

16. St. John to Amherst and Halifax. 

Tlie TntercolouLd Railway. 

This route traverses the S. E. coiuities of New Brunswick, passes the isthmus at 
the head of the Bay of Fundy, and after crossing the Oobeqiiid Mts. and rounding 
the head of Cobequid Bay. runs S. W. to the cityof Ilahfax. It traverses some in- 
teresting districts and has a few glimpses of attractive scenery, but the views are 
generally monotonous and without any strildug beauties. During calm and pleasant 
■weather the traveller will find the Annapohs route (^ste Koute 18) much the pleas- 
anter way to go from St. John to Hahfax. 

There is no change of cars between St. John and Halifax, and baggage is checked 
through During the summer there is a day express-train, leaving St. John at 7 
A. M. , and due at Halifax at 7.40 p. M. ; and a night express, leaving St. John at 8.30 
P. M., and due at Halifax at 9 a. m. Pullman-c:ao have i-ecently been introduced on 
this line. 

Stations. — St. John ; Moosepath, 3 M. ; Brookville, 5; Torryburn, 6 ; River- 
side, 7 ; Rothesay, 9 ; Quispamsis, 12 ; Nauwigewauk,17 ; Hampton, 22; Passekeag, 
26; Bloomfield, 27; Norton, 33; Apohaqui, 39; Sussex, 44; Plumweseep, 47; 
Penobsquis, 51; Anagance, 60 ; Petitcodiac, 66; Pollet River, 71; Salisbury, 76; 
Boundary Creek, 79 ; Moncton, 89 : Humphrey. 91 ; Painsec Junction, 97 (Dorches- 
ter Road", 102 ; Shediac, 106 ; Point du Chene, 108) ; Meadow Brook, 101 ; Memram- 
cook, 108 ; Dorchester, 116: Sackville, 127; Aulac, 131; Amherst, 138 ; Nappan, 
144; Maccan, 147: Athol, 151 ; Spring Hill, 156 : Salt Springs, 164; River Phihp, 
167 ; Thompson, 174 ; Greenville. 181 : Wentworth, 187 ; PoUy Lake, 191 ; Loudon- 
derrv, 199; Debert, 204 ; Ishgonish, 208; Truro, 216; Johnson, 220: Brookfield, 
224 ;" PoUv Bos, 229 : Stewiacke, 233 ; Shubenacadie, 238; Milford, 242; Elmsdale, 
247; Enfi'eld, 249; Grand Lake, 254; Wellington, 256: Windsor Junction, 264; 
Rocky Lake, 266 ; Bedford, 269 ; roiu--Mile House, 273 ; HaUfax, 276. 

Fares from St. John. — To Sussex, 1st class, $ 1.32, — 2d class, 88c. ; to Moncton, 
1st class, 3 2 67, — 2d class, $1.78 ; to Shediac, 1st class, S3, — 2d class, § 2 ; to 
Amherst, 1st class, S 3 78, —2d class, S 2.52 ; to Truro, 1st class, § 5.06, — 2d class, 
S 3.37 ; to Halifax, 1st class, 8 6, — 2d class, S 4. 

Fares from Halifax. — 1o Truro, 1st class, S 1.83, — 2d class, $1.22; to Pictou, 
1st class; 8 3.15, —2d class, $ 2.10 ; to Amherst, 1st class, $ 3.78, — 2d class, $ 2.52 ; 
to Shediac, 1st class, $ 4.55, — 2d class, ;?o.03; to Sussex, 1st class, S 5.31, —2d 
class, $ 3.54 : to St. John, 1st class, S 6, — 2d class, S 4. _ 

Way-passengers can estimate their expenses easily on the basis of 3c. per mile for 
1st class, and 2c. per mile for 2d class tickets, which is the tariff fixed by the 
Canadian Government for siU distances of less than 100 M. on its national rail- 
ways. 

On leaving the Valley station, in the city of St. John (see page 19), the 
train passes out into the ]Marsh Valley, which is ascended for several miles 
(see page 22). A short distance beyond Moosepath Park the line crosses 
Lawlor's Lal-e on an embankment which cost heavily, on account of the 
great depth to which the ballasting sunk. The Kennebecasis Bay is soon 
seen, on the 1., and is skirted for 5 M., passing the villas of Eothesay (see 
page 22), and giving pleasant views over the broad waters. Quispam- 



SUSSEX VALE. Route 16. 71 

sis station is 3 M. S. of Gondola Point, whence a ferry crosses the Ken- 
nebecasis to the pretty hamlet of Clifton. The narrowing valley is now 
followed to the N. E., with occasional glimpses of the river on the 1. 
Hampton (two hotels) is the shire-town of Kings County, whose new pub- 
lic buildings are seen to the r. of the track. It is a thriving village of re- 
cent origin, and is visited in summer by the people of St. John, on account 
of the hill-scenery in the vicinity. 

St. Martin's, or QuacOj is about 20 M. S. E., on the Bay of Fundy, and is to be 
connected with Hampton by a new railway. (It is now visited by tri-weekly stage 
from St. John in 32 M., fare $ 1 50 ; a rugged road.) This is one of the chief ship- 
building towns in the province, and has over 1,000 inhabitants, with several churches 
and other public buildings. It was originally settled by the King's Orange Rangers, 
and has recently become a favorite point for summer excursions from St. John. 
The hotel accommodation is inferior. S. of the village is the tall lighthouse on 
Quaco Head, sustaining a revolving white light. The name Qitaco is a contraction 
of the Indian words Crulwahgahgee , meaning " the Home of the Sea-cow." 

The shores about Quaco are bold and picturesque, fronting the Bay with lofty 
iron-bound cliffs, among which are small strips of stony beaches. The strata are 
highly inclined and in some cases are strangely contorted, while their shelves and 
crevices are adorned with pine-trees. Quaco Head is 2 M. from St. Martin's, and 
is 350 ft. high, surrounded by cliffs of red sandstone 250 ft. in height. This bold 
promontory rises directly from the sea, and is crowned by forests. The harbor of 
Quaco is rather pretty, whence it has been likened to the Bay of Naples. Tracy'' s 
Lake is about 5 M. from Quaco, on the Loch Lomond road, and is noted for an 
abundance of trout. 10-12 M. N. of the village is the Mount Theobald Lake, a 
small round forest-pool in which trout are found in great numbers. 

Hampton station is 1 M. from the village of Hampton Ferry, and beyond 
Bloomfield the train reaches Norton, whence a road runs 7 M. N. W. to 
Springfield, at the head of Belleisle Bay. Apohaqui (Apohaqui Hotel) is 
a village of 300 inhabitants, on the upper Kennebecasis, and at the mouth 
of the Mill-stream Valley. 

The train now reaches Sussex {Exchange Hotel), a pleasant little vil- 
lage of 400 inhabitants, whence the famous farm-lands of the Sussex Vale 
stretch off to the S. E. along the course of Trout Brook. There are sev- 
eral hamlets (with inns) amid the pleasant rural scenery of the Vale, and 
good trout-fishing is found on the smaller streams. 8 M. up is the pros- 
perous settlement of Seeley's Mills, with 650 inhabitants. 

The Sussex Yale was settled by the military corps of the New Jersey Loyalists 
(most of whom were Germans), soon after the Revolutionary War, and it is now 
occupied, for the most part, by their descendants. "Good roads, well-executed 
bridges, cleared land, excellent crops, comfortable houses, high-bred cattle and 
horses, good conveyances pubUc and private, commodious churches, weU-taught 
schools, well-provided inns, and an intelligent, industrious people, aU in the midst; 
of scenery lofty, soft, rounded, beautifully varied with hill and valley, mountain 
and meadow, forest and flood, have taken the place of the pathless wilderness, the 
endless trees, the untaught Indian, and the savage moose." (Prof. Johnston.) 

Beyond Plumweseep occasional glimpses of the long low ridge of Picca- 
dilly Mt. are obtained on the r., and Mt. Pisgah is just N. of Penobsquis 
station (small inn), which is the seat of the New Brunswick Paper Manu- 
facturing Co. and of several salt-works. Tri-weekly stages run hence 32 
M. S. E. to the maritime village of Salmon River, on Chignecto Bay, 4 M. 
N. W. of the obscure shipping-port oi Point Wolfe (Stevens's Hotel). 



72 Route 16. MONCTON. 

Petitcodiac {Mansard House; Central Hotel) is 15 M. beyond Penob- 
squis, and is a busy village of 400 inhabitants, many of whom are con- 
nected with the lumber-trade. 5 M. S. E. is the Pollett River village, near 
which there is good trouting. In this vicinity are the Pollett Falls, where 
the river, after flowing through a narrow defile between lofty and rugged 
hills, falls over a line of sandstone ledges, and then whirls away down a 
dark gorge below. The caverns, crags, and eroded fronts of the sand- 
stone cliffs form picturesque bits of scenery. 

15-18 M. N. of Petitcodiac are the famous fishing-grounds of the 

Canaan River. The railway now descends the valley of the Petitcodiac 

Elver, which was settled after the Eevolutionary War by Germans from 

Pennsylvania who remained loyal to Great Britain. Salisbury (two inns) 

is a pleasant village of 300 inhabitants. 

Stages run from Salisbury, or Moncton, to Hillsborougli (two hotels), a busy- 
village of 900 inhabitants, whence are shipped the abundant products of the mines 
of Albert County. The Albert Coal-mines are connected with Hillsborough by a 
railway bh M. long, and produce large quantities of valuable bituminous coal, much, 
of which^is sent by sea to Portland and Boston. 2\ M. from the village are exten- 
sive plaster-quarries, whose products are shipped to the American ports. S. E. of 
Hillsborough, down the Petitcodiac River, are the villages of the parish of Hopewell, 
of which Hopewell Cape is the capital of the county. W. of Hopewell Corner is 
Harvey Corner, whence a pleasant road leads to Rocher. To the S. are the Shepody 
Lakes and River, beyond which (and 8 M. from Harvey Corner) is Little Rocher, 
near Cape Enrage on Chignecto Bay (with a fixed light, visible for 15 M.). Off these 
bold shores are the Albert Quarries and the rocky cliffs of Grindstone Island. The 
mines and villages of Albert County are being joined with the Intercolonial Rail- 
way system by a line called the Albert Railway, which intersects the former road 
and runs down through the lower parishes, meeting with fine scenery in its passage 
between Shepody Mt. (1,050 ft. high) and the Bay. 

Beyond Salisbury station the Halifax train runs 13 M. N. E. to Moncton 
(King''s Hotel), the headquarters of the Intercolonial Eailway and the site 
of its extensive machine-shops. It is well laid out, and has 4 churches, a 
weekly paper, and some manufacturing works. Its situation at the head 
of navigation on the Petitcodiac gives certain commercial advantages, and 
afibrds opportunity for the visitor to see the great " Bore," or tide-wave, 
of the Bay of Fundy. At the beginning of the flood-tide a wall of water 
4-6 ft. high sweeps up the river, and within 6 hours the stream rises over 
70 ft. On account of the sharp curve in the river at this point, Moncton 
was known only as "the Bend" for over a century, when it was named 
in honor of an early English officer of the Acadian Avars. This bend also 
gave rise to the name of the river, which was hence called by the French 
Petit Coude (" Little Elbow"). 

The new division of the Intercolonial Railway runs N. from Moncton, and is 
designed to meet the Canadian railway system at Riviere du Loup. It passes 
through or near the chief towns of the North Shore, and follows the Bayof Chal- 
eur for many miles. A considerable portion of the line will probably be open to 
travel in the summer of 1875, but the officers of the road cannot yet give precise 
information. The towns on this hne are described in Route 15. 

The Halifax train runs out to the N. E. from Moncton, and after passing 
Painsec Junction (see page 59) deflects to the S. E. into the Memramcook 



SACKVILLE. Route 16. 73 

Valley. It soon reaches the connected villages of Memramcook and St. 
Joseph (three inns), occupying the centre of a prosperous farming district 
which is inhabited by over 1,000 Acadians, — a pious and simple-hearted 
Catholic peasantry, — a large portion of whom belong to the prolific fami- 
lies of Leblanc, Cormier, Gaudet, and Bouque. On the opposite shore is 
the College of St. Joseph de Memramcook, where about 100 students 
(mostly from Canada and the United States) are conducted through a 
high-school curriculum by 12 friars and ecclesiastics. Near the college 
is the handsome stone building of the Church of St. Joseph de Memram- 
cook. 

The scenery is of a bold character as the train descends the r. bank of 
the Memramcook Elver, and crosses to Dorchester {Dorchester Hotel), a 
prosperous village of 800 inhabitants, situated near the mouth of the river 
and among the finest wheat-lands in New Brunswick. In this vicinity 
(and at EocJcland, 4 M. W.) are large quarries of olive-colored sandstone, 
most of which is sent to Boston and New York. Dorchester has 3 churches, 
the public buildings of Westmoreland County, and numerous pleasant 
residences. Shipbuilding is carried on to some extent. 

A ferry crosses Shepody Bay to Hopewell Cape (see page 72) ; and 6-8 M. "W. of 
Dorchester is Belliveau village, nine tenths of whose inhabitants belong to the fami- 
lies of Belhveau, Gautreault, and Melan^on. This settlement was named in honor 
of the venerable M. Belliveau, whose long life extended from 1730 to 1840. In 1776 
many of the Acadians of this vicinity joined the New England forces under Col. 
Eddy, who occupied Sackville and attacked Fort Cumberland (see page 78). 

The train now runs E. 12 M. from Dorchester to Sackville {Brunsioick 
House), a rising and prosperous village of about 1,500 inhabitants, situated 
on a red sandstone slope at the mouth of the Tantramar i Eiver, near the 
head of the Bay of Fundy. It has ship-yards, a stove foundry, a news- 
paper, and 8 churches. Sackville is the seat of the Mount Allison Wes- 
leyan College, an institution which was founded by Mr. C. F. Allison, and 
is conducted by the Wesleyan Conference of Eastern British America. It 
includes a small college, a theological hall, and academies for boys and 
girls. A road leads from Sackville S. E. down the nagged headland be- 
tween Cumberland Basin and Shepody Bay, passing the marine hamlets 
of Woodpoint (5 M.), Eockport (12 M.), and N. Joggins, 14 M. from Sack- 
ville, and near the highlands of Cape Marangouin. 

Sackville is the point established for the outlet of the projected Bale Terte 
Canal, a useful work 18 M. long, which would allow vessels to pass from the Bay 
of Fundy to the Gulf of St. Lawrence without having to round the iron-bound pe- 
ninsula of Nova Scotia. This canal has been planned and desired for over a cen- 
tury, but nothing has yet been done, except the surveying of the isthmus. Tri- 
weekly stages run N. E. along the telegraph-road from Sackville to Jolicoeur (10 M ), 
Bale Verte Road (14 M.), Bale A^erte (18 M., small inn), and Port Elgin (20 M. • inn). 
About 16 M. N. E. of Port Elgin is Cape Tormentine, " the great headland 
which forms the E. extremity of New Brunswick within the Gulf Indian Point 
may be said to form the southern, and Cape Jourimain the northern points of this 
\ieadland, which is a place of importance in a nautical point of view, not only from 

1 Tantramar, from the French word Tintamarre, meaning " a thundering noise." 

4 



7-1: HouUlC. TAXTRAMAK MAESH. 



1 



its position, but frvaw its dan^^roii? aiiil oxtor.sivo shivils," The sulvmarine tft<v 
graph to Priuoo FAi«"tvr\l Island OTvv«i*'S fn^m Oajx" Jouriiuaiu : and it is from tliis 
ix^iut that the wiutv^r miul-s«.^rviiv is oonduottxi. when the mails, ivassengors. \ud 
Knggajre arv snbjoottxl to an oxoiting and perilous transit in iiv-Kv4ts to Capo Trav- 
eriv 'Baio Verto is M. wide and 11 M. doop. hut affords no gvxxi sholtor. It iv- 
tvives the Tiguish and Oaspeiv>au Kivers, and at the mouth of the latter are tho 
ancient ruins of Fort Monoton. 

At SaokA-ille the Halifax train crosses the Tantrani:ir River, nxid runs 
out over the wide Tantramar Marsh to Aulao, or Cole's Ishuid (stas^' to 
Cape Tormeiitine\ near wliioh ir oivsses the Aulao Kiver. Trains ar« 
sometimes blocked in ou these plains during the snow-storms of winter, 
and tlie passeu£^>rs arv^ subjected to great hardships. The Missiguash 
El vex is next crossed, with the niius of Fort Beausejour (Cnmberhmd) ou 
the X., and of Fort Beanbassin (Lawrence) ou the S. These forts are best 
visited from Amherst, Avhich is 4-5 M. distant, and is reached alter trav- 
ersing the J/kW<7MasA Jdatsh. The Missiguash Kiver is the boundary 
between New Bnmswick and Xova Scotia, and Amlierst is the first town 
reached in the latter Province. 

Amherst to Halifax, see Route 17. 



IfOYA SCOTIA. 



The Province of Nova Scotia is peninsular in location, and is connected 
with the mainland by an isthmus 8 M. wide. It is bounded on the N. by 
the Bay of Fundy, the Strait of Northumberland, and the Gulf of St. Law- 
rence; on the E. and S. by the Atlantic Ocean; and on the W. by the 
ocean, the Bay of Fundy, and the Province of New Brunswick. Its length, 
fi'om Cape Canso to Cape St. Mary, is 383 M., and its breadth varies from 
60 M. to 104 M. The area of the peninsular portion of the Province is 
about 16,000 square miles. (The island of Cape Breton is connected with 
this Province, politically, but its description is reserved for another sec- 
tion of this book.) 

*' Acadie is much warmer in summer and much colder in winter than 
the countries in Europe lying under the same parallels of latitude" 
(Southern France, Sardinia, Lombard}^, Genoa, Venice, Northern Tur- 
key, the Crimea, and Circassia). "The spring season is colder and the 
autumn more agreeable than those on the opposite side of the Atlantic. 
Its climate is favorable to agriculture, its soil generally fertile. The land 
is well watered by rivers, brooks, and lakes. The supply of timber for 
use and for exportation may be considered as inexhaustible. The fish- 
eries on the coasts are abundant. The harbors are numerous and excel- 
lent. Wild animals are abundant, among which are remarkable the moose, 
caribou, and red deer. Wild fowl also are plenty. Extensive tracts of 
alluvial land of great value are found on the Bay of Fundy. These lands 
have a natural richness that dispenses with all manuring; all that is 
wanted to keep them in order is spade-work. As to cereals, — wheat, 
rye, oats, buckwheat, maize, all prosper. The potato, the hop, flax, and 
hemp are everywhere prolific. The vegetables of the kitchen garden are 
successfully raised. Of fruit there are many wild kinds, and the apple, 
pear, plum, and cherry seem almost indigenous. The vine thrives ; good 
grapes are often raised in the open air. It was said by a French writer 
that Acadie produced readily everything that grew in Old France, except 
the olive. 

"In the peninsula, or Acadie- proper, there is an abundance of mineral 
wealth. Coal is found in Cumberland and Pictou ; iron ore, in Colchester 
and Annapolis Counties ; gypsum, in Hants ; marble and limestone, in dif- 
ferent localities; freestone, for building, at Eemsheg (Port Wallace) and 



76 NOVA SCOTIA. 

Pictou; granite, near Halifax, Shelburne, etc.; brick clay, in the counties 
of Halifax and Annapolis. The amethysts of Parrsborough and its vicin- 
ity have been long celebrated, and pearls have been found lately in the 
Annapolis Eiver. The discovery of gold along the whole Atlantic shore of 
the peninsula of Nova Scotia has taken place since 1860, and it now gives 
steady remunerative employment to about 800 or 1,000 laborers, with 
every expectation of its expansion." (Beamish Murdoch.) The pro- 
duction of gold from the Nova-Scotia mines now amounts to about $ 400,000 
a year. 

In 1873 the Nova-Scotians caught $6,577,086 worth of fish, of which 
$2,531,159 worth were of codfish, $1,411,676 of mackerel, $717,861 of 
herring, and $ 865,574 of lobsters. 

The territory now occupied by the Maritime Provinces was known for 
nearly two centuries by the name of Acadie^'^ and was the scene of fre- 
quent wars between Britain and France, Its first discoverers were the 
Northmen, about the year 1000 A. d., and Sebastian Cabot rediscovered 
it in 1498. In 1518 and 1598 futile attempts were made by French nobles 
to found colonies here, and French fishermen, fur-traders, and explorers 
frequented these shores for over a century. In 1605 a settlement was 
founded at Port Eoyal, after the discoveries of De Monts and Champlain, 
but it was broken up in 1618 by the Virginians, who claimed that Acadie 
belonged to Britain by virtue of Cabot's discovery. In 1621 James I. 
of England granted to Sir William Alexander the domain called NovA 
Scotia, including all the lands E. of a line drawn from Passamoquoddy 
Bay N. to the St. Lawrence ; but this claim was renounced in 1632, and 
the rival French nobles. La Tour and D' Aulnay, commenced their fratri- 
cidal wars, each striving to be sole lord of Acadie. In 1654 the Province 
was captured by a force sent out by Cromwell, but the French interest 
soon regained its former position. 

The order of the Baronets of Nova Scotia was founded by King Charles 
I., in 1625, and consisted of 150 well-born gentlemen of Scotland, who re- 
ceived, with their titles and insignia, grants of 18 square miles each, in the 
wide domains of Acadia. These manors were to be settled by the baronets 
at their own expense, and were expected in time to yield handsome 
revenues. But little was ever accomplished by this order. Meantime 
Cardinal Richelieu founded and became grand master of a more powerful 
French association called the Company of New France (1627). It con- 

1 Acadia is the Anglicized (or Latinized) form of Acadie, an Indian -word signifying 
" the place," or " the region." It is a part of the compound words Segeebeji-acaaie (Hhu- 
benacadie), meaning " place of wild potatoes "; TuHuk-cadie (Tracadie), meaning " dwelling- 
place " ; Sun-acadie, or "place of cranberries"; Kitpoo-acadie, or "place of eagles," and 
others of similar form. The Milicete tribes pronounced this word " Quoddy," whence 
restumoo-quoddy (Passamoquoddy), meaning "place of pollocks ' ; JS'oodi-quoddy, or 
" place of seals," etc. When a British officer was descending the Shubenacadie with a Mic- 
mac guide, he inquired how the name originated ; the Indian answered, "Because plenty 
wild potatoes — scgeeben — once grew here.'' " Well, ' acadie,' Paul, what does that mean ? " 
" Means — where you find 'em," rejoined the Micmac. 



NOVA SCOTIA. 77 

sisted of 100 members, who received Acadia, Quebec, Florida, and New- 
foundland " in simple homage," and had power to erect duchies, marquis- 
ates, and seigniories, subject to the royal approval. They allowed French 
Catholics only to settle on these lands, and were protected by national 
frigates. This order continued for 40 years, and was instrumental in 
founding numerous villages along the Nova-Scotian coast. 

In 1690 the New-Englanders overran the Province and seized the for- 
tresses, but it was restored to France in 1697. In 1703 and 1707 unsuc- 
cessful expeditions were sent from Massachusetts against the Acadian 
strongholds, but they were finally captured in 1710 ; and in 1713 Nova 
Scotia was ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of Utrecht. The Prov- 
ince was kept in a condition of disorder for the next 40 years, by the dis- 
affection of its French population and the lawlessness of the Indians, and 
the British fortresses were often menaced and attacked. After the founda- 
tion of Halifax, in 1749, a slow tide of Immigration set in and sti'engthened 
the government. In 1755 the French people in the Province (7,000 in num- 
ber) were suddenly seized and transported to the remote American colo- 
nies, and the French forts on the Baie-Verte frontier were captured. 

In 1758 the first House of Assembly met at Halifax, and in 1763 the 
French power in America was finally and totally crushed. At the close 
of the Eevolution, 20,000 self-exiled Americans settled in Nova Scotia; 
and in 1784 New Brunswick and Cape Bi'eton were withdrawn and made 
into separate provinces (Cape Breton was reunited to Nova Scotia in 1820). 
During the Eevolution and the War of 1812 Halifax was the chief station 
of the British navy, and the shores of the Province were continually 
harassed by American privateers. 

In 1864 a convention was held at Charlottetown, P. E. L, to consider 
measures for forming a federal imion of the Maritime Provinces. During 
the session Canadian delegates were admitted, on the request of the St. 
Lawrence Provinces ; and a subsequent congress of all the Provinces was 
held at Quebec, at which the plan of the Dominion of Canada was elabo- 
rated. It is now thought that this quasi-national government does not fulfil 
all the original wishes of the seaboard regions, and that it may be well to 
unite (or reunite) the Maritime Provinces into one powerful province 
called Acadia, by which the expense of three local legislatures and cabi- 
nets could be saved, their homogeneous commercial interests could be 
favored by uniform laws, and the populotis and wealthy Provinces of Que- 
bec and Ontario could be balanced in the Dominion Parliament. 



" There are perhaps no Provinces in the world possessing finer harbors, 
or furnishing in greater abundance all the conveniences of life. The climate 
is quite mild and very healthy, and no lands have been found that are not 

of surpassing fertility Finally, nowhere are there to be seen forests 

more beautiful or with wood better fitted for buildings and masts. There 



78 Route 17, AMHERST. 

are in some places copper mines, and in others of coal The fish most 

commonly canght on the coast are the cod, salmon, mackerel, herring, 
sardine, shad, tront, gotte, gaparot, barbel, sturgeon, goberge, — all fish 
that can be salted and exported. Seals, walruses, and Avhales are found 

in great numbers The rivers, too, are full of fresh-water fish, and the 

banks teem with countless game." (Father Charlevoix, 1765.) 

"Hei'ewith I enter the lists as the champion of Xova Scotia "Were 

I to give a fii-st-class certificate of its general character, I would aflirm that 
it yields a gi'eater variety' of products for export than any ten-itory on the 
globe of the same superficial area. This is saying a gi-eat deal. Let lis 
see : she has ice, lumber, ships, salt-fish, salmon and lobsters, coal, iron, 
gold, copper, plaster, slate, grindstones, fat cattle, wool, potatoes, apples, 
large game, and furs." (Charles Hallock, 1S73.) 



17. St. John to Amherst and Halifax. 

St. John to Amherst, see preceding route. 

Amherst {Acadia Hotel ; Amherst Hotel) is a flourishing town midway 
between St. John and Halifax (138 M. from each). It is the capital of 
Cumberland County, Nova Scotia, and is pleasantly situated at the head 
of the Cumberland Basin, one of the great arms of the Bay of Fundy. It 
has 3,606 inhabitants, and is engaged in the lumber trade; while the im- 
mense area of fertile meadows about the town furnishes profitable employ- 
ment for a large rural population. Bi-weekly stages run N. E. up the 
valley of the La Planche to Tldnish (two inns), a village of 300 inhabitants 
on Baie Yei'te. Tri-weekly stages run N. E. to Shinimicas and the large 
farming district called the Head of Amherst, which has over 2,000 in- 
habitants. 

The present domain of Xova Scotia was ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of 
XJtrecht, in 1713, hut its boundaries were not defined, and the French determined to 
limit it on the X. to the Missignash River. To this end Got. La Jonquit^re sent M. 
La Come, with 600 soldiers, to erect forts on the hne of the Missiguash. The war- 
rior-priest, the Abbe Laloutre (Ticar-General of Acadie~), led many Acadians to this 
vicinity, where the flourishing settlement of Bcaiibassin was founded. At the same 
time La Corne established a chain of military posts from the Bay of Fundy to Baie 
Verte, the chief fort being located on the present site of Fort Cumberland, and bear- 
ing the name of Ecausejour. The gorei-nor of Xova Scotia sent out a British force 
under Major Lawi-ence, who captured and destroyed Beanbassin, and erected Fort 
Lawrence near its site. The Acadians were industriously laboring in the peaceful 
pursuits of agi-iculture about Beausejour; and the King of France had granted 
80,000 livres for the great aboideau across the Aulac River. The British complained, 
however, that the priests were endeavoring to array the Acadians against them, 
and to entice them away from the Xova-Scotian shores. It was resolved that the 
Fx-ench forces should be driven froni their position, and a powerful expedition was 
fitted out at Boston. Thi-ee frigates and a number of ti-ansports conveying the Xew- 
England levies sailed up the Bay of Fundy in May, 1755, and debarked a strong 



FOET CUMBERLAND. Route 17. 79 

land force afFort Lawrence. Meantime 1,200-1,500 Acadians had been gathered 
about Beausejour, by the influence of the Abbe Laloutre, and a sharp skirmish was 
fought on L'Isle de la VaUiere. On the 4th of June the Anglo-American forces left 
their camps on the glacis of Fort Lawrence, routed the Acadians at the fords of the 
Missiguash, and advanced by parallels and siege-lines against the hostile works. 
When the British batteries reached Butte-a-Charles the fort was Tigorously shelled, 
and with such disastrous effect that it capitulated on June 16th, the garrison march- 
ing out with arms, baggage, and banners. The French troops were paroled and 
sent to Louisbourg, and the Acadians were suffered to remain. Laloutre, escaping 
to Quebec, there received an ecclesiastical censure, and was afterwards remanded to 
France. 

In November, 1776, Col. Eddy led a force of Massachusetts troops, men of Mau- 
gerviUe, Acadians, and Indians, against Fort Cumberland. He first cut out a store- 
vessel from under the guns of the fort, and captured several detachments of the gar- 
rison (the Royal Fencibles). The commandant refused to surrender, and repulsed 
the Americans in a night-attack, by means of a furious cannonade. Eddy then 
blockaded the fort for several days, but was finally driven off by the arrival of a 
man-of-war from Halifax, bringing a reinforcement of 400 men. The Massachusetts 
camp was broken up by a sortie, and all its stores were destroyed. The Americans 
fled to the forest, and fell back on the St. John River. A large proportion of the 
men of Cumberland County went to Maine after this campaign, despairing of the 
success of Republicanism in the Maritime Provinces. Among them were a consid- 
erable number of Acadians. 

The ruins of Fort Cumberland are a few miles N. W. of Amherst, beyond the 
Aulac River, and on a high bluff at the S. end of the Point de Bute range of hills. 
It was kept in repair by the Imperial Government for many years after its capture, 
and still presents an appearance of strength and solidity, though it has been long 
deserted. The remains of the besiegers' parallels are also visible near the works. 
On a bold bluff within cannon-shot, on the farther bank of the Missiguash River, 
are the scanty remains of the British Fort Lawrence. Numerous rehcs of the old 
Acadians may still be traced in this vicinity. 5 M. above the fort, on the Bale Verte 
road, is Bloody Bridge, where a British foraging party under Col. Dixon was sur- 
prised and massacred by the Indians (under French officers). 

The * view from the bastions of Fort Cumberland is famous for its extent and 
beauty. It includes Sackville and its colleges on the N. W., Amherst and the 
Nova-Scotian shores on the S. E., and the bluff and hamlet of Fort Lawrence. The 
wide and blooming expanse of the Tantramar and Missiguash Marshes is over- 
looked, — the view including over 50,000 acres of rich marine intervale, — and on 
the S. the eye travels for many leagues down the blue sheet of the Bay of Fundy 
(Cumberland Basin). 

The great Tantramar Marsh, is S. of Sackville, and is 9 M. long by 4 M. wide, 
being also traversed by the Tantramar and Aulac Rivers. It is composed of fine 
siUcious matter deposited as marine alluvium, and is called "red marsh," in dis- 
tinction from the " blue marsh " of the uplands. The low shores around the head 
of the Bay of Fundy for a distance of 20 M. have been reclaimed by the erection of 
dikes, with aboideaux at the mouths of the rivers to exclude the flow of the tides. 
The land thus gained is very rich, and produces fine crops of English hay, averag- 
ing from 1% to 2 tons to the acre. The land seems inexhaustible, having been cul- 
tivated now for nearly a century without rotation or fertilization. 

The Chignecto Peninsula. 

Minudie is 8 M. S. W. of Amherst, with which it is connected by a ferry across 
the estuaries of the Maccan and Hebert Rivers. It has 600 inhabitants, and is near 
the rich meadows called the Elysian Fields. In the vicinity are profitable quarries 
of grindstones, and there are shad-fisheries to the S. AV. 6-8 M. S. are the Joggins 
Mines, pertaining to the General Mining Association of London ; and the Victoria 
Mines, on the river Hebert. Coal has been obtained thence for 25 years. This dis- 
trict is reached by stages from Maccan station. About the year 1730 the coal-mines 
at Chignecto were leased to a Boston company, which was to pay a quit-rent of one 
penny an acre (on 4,000 acres), and a royalty of 18 pence per chaldron on the coal 
raised. But this enterprise was broken up in 1732. when the warehouses and ma- 
chinery were destroyed by the Indians (probably incited by the French at Louis- 
bourg). 



so i::ut< r. COBEQUID MTS. 

The Jo§:^«si Slioro oxtonds to tho S. W. aloiisr tho Ohismeoto Chaunel. and is 
n?markiiblo Vi.>r it;s gtvlogioal poouliarities. vrhioh hsvo beT>n visiUHi and studied by 
E\iropeaa savsns. The local oxplanstion of tho name is that the cliffs here *' jc>^ in '* 
juiJ on: in an imexampUxl iiianuer. Tho height of the oliflfe is from 130 to 400 ft. ; and 
the width of the Ohijrnccto Ba.<iu is from 5 to S M. oo - 40 M . frvun Amherst is .i/'/Vf 
Ricirr, a soqiiej^teRxi hamlet on the estnary of the Apple "River, amidst fine marine 
scenery. Apple Head is just W. of this place, and is 413 ft. high. OA-erUx>kius: the 
Chignecto Channel and the Nevr-Brunsvrick shores. There is a fixevl vrhito light on 
its outer point. To the E. . Apple Kirer traverses the Caribou Plains, and on its 
upper waters afR>ri.ls the K\<t of trout-fishing, with anahuudiinco of salmon between 
february and .Inly. 15-:iX^ M. S. W. of Apple River, by a road which crosses the 
Cobev^uid Mrs^ E. of Cape Chiguect<\ is JJciXtJ^V Harbor (see Kouto 21). 

* • Tho road frv>m Amherst to l^JTrsN^ro" is tedious and uninteresting. In places 
it is made so straight that you can see several miles of it Wfore you. which pr^xiutvs 
an appearance of interminable length, while the stimtovl growth of the spruce and 
birch trees bespeaks a cold, thiti soil, and invests the scene with a melancholy and 
sterile jispect." ^^.1^DGK H.ujBrRTOX.> This road is Si> M. long, ascending the val- 
ley of the Maccaa River, and passing the hamlet of Cauuan, near the Cobequid Mts. 

The Halimx traiu nins S. from Amherst to Jfaccan (stages to Miuudie 
andJoggius), in the great coal-tield of Cumberland County. Daily stages run 
from Athoi station to Parrsboro*. From Athol the line passes to Sprinp HUl, 
a ooal-mining district, whence a railway is being constructed to Parrsboro' 
<,see Koute 21^. 11 M. beyond is tlie station at JiU'ir Philij) (small hotel), 
a pleasant stream in which goovl fishing is found. The salmon are espe- 
cially abundant during the springtime. Oxfoni station (two inns^ has two 
small woollen factories, and is 14 M. S. W. of Pugwash, on the Xorthumber- 
land Strait, 

The train now passes through extensive forests, in which many sup\r- 
maples are seen, aiid begins the ascent of the Cobequid Mts., with the 
W:illace Valley below on the 1. The Cobequid nxngo runs almost due E. 
and W. from Truro, and is 100 M. long, with an aver:\ge breadth of 10 - 12 
M. It consists of a sticcession of rounded hills, SOO - 1,000 feet high, cov- 
ered with tall and luxitriant forests of beech and sugar-maple. From 
Thomson, Greenville, and Wentworth stations stages run to Wallace and 
Pugwash (see page Sl>. tUso to "Westchester. The railway traverses the 
hill-country by the FoUi/ Pass, and has its heavies^t grades between FoUy 
Lake and Londonderry : where are also 2 - S M. of snoAv-sheds, to protect 
the deep ciittings from the drit\ing in of snow from the hills. Fine views 
of the Wallace Valley are afforded from the open levels of the line. Faim 
Lotidondcrry a bianch-railway runs to the Londonderry Iron-mines, which 
have been worked for nearly 40 years. The ores are magnetic, specular, 
and hematite, and occur in a wedge-shaped vein 7 M. long and 120 ft. 
thick. The iron is of fine quality, but is difticult to work. 

The tr;iin descends from the Pass along the line of the Folly River, which 
it crosses on a bridge 200 feet above the w-ater. Beyond the farming set- 
tlement of Dthirt (stages to Economy and Five Islands') tlie descent is con- 
tinued, and occasional views of the Cobequid Bay are given as the train 
passes across OusIoav to Truro. The landscape now becomes more pleas- 
ing and thickly settled. 



TRURO. Route 17. 81 

Truro {Somerset ITouse; Pr-ince of Wales JTofel; Victoria) is a wealthy 
and prosperous town of over 4,000 inhabitants, and occupies a pleasant 
situation 2 M. from the head of Cobequid Bay (an arm of the Basin of 
Minas). The level site of the town is nearh^ surrounded by an amphi- 
theatre of gracefully rounded hills, and on the W. are the old diked 
meadows of the Acadian era. Truro is the capital of Colchester County 
and the seat of the Provincial Normal School. Fishing and shipbuilding 
are carried on here, and there are large and growing manufactures, in- 
cluding boots and shoes, Avoollens, and iron-wares. The neighboring 
county has valuable farming-lands, and contains several iron-mines. 

Truro was settled at an early date by the Acadian French, and after their expul- 
sion from Nova Scotia was occui>ied by Scotch-Irish from New Hampshire. In 
1761 a large number of disbanded Irish troops settled here, and engaged in the 
peaceful pursuits of agriculture. 

A road runs W. from Truro between the Cobequid Mts. and the Basin of Minas, 
passing Masstown (10 M.) ; Folly Village (14 M.), at the mouth of the Folly River; 
Great Village (18 M.), a place of (300 inhabitants ; Highland Village (21 M.) ; Port 
au Pique (23 M.) ; Bass River (27 M.); Upper Economy (28 M.) ; and Five Islands 
(45 M.). (See Route 22.) The stages run from Debert station. 

Stages also run S. W. to Old Barns, on the S. shore of Cobequid Bay, and S. E. 15 
M. to Middle Stewiacke, on the Stewiacke River. 

Truro is the point of departure for the Pictou Branch of the Intercolonial Rail- 
way (see Route 31). 

The North Shore of Nova Scotia. 

Blair's express-stages leave Truro on the arrival of the morning trains from Hali- 
fax, on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, returning on the alternate days. Truro 
to Tatamagouche, 29 M. ; to Wallace, 42; to Pugwash, 52. Stages also run from 
Wentworth, Greenville, and Thomson to the N. Shore (according to the Intercolonial 
Railway circular for 1874) , and a tri- weekly line runs between Pictou and Amherst 
by way of the N. shore. 

In passing from Truro to Tatamagouche the road crosses the Cobequid 
Mts. and descends through a thinly settled region to the N. Tatamagouche 
(two inns) is situated at the head of a large harbor which opens on the 
Northumberland Strait, and has about 1,500 inhabitants. Some ship- 
building is done here, and there are freestone quarries in the vicinity. 
6 M. to the E. is the large village of Brule Harhor, and 6 M. farther E., 
also on the Tatamagouche Bay, and at the mouth of the River John, is 
tlie shipbuilding settlement of River John, which was founded by Swiss 
Protestants in 1763. It is 20 M. from this point to Pictou, and the inter- 
vening coast is occupied by colonists from the Hebrides. 

Blair's stage runs W. from Tatamagouche to Wallace (two inns), a town 
of 2,600 inhabitants, situated on the deep waters of Wallace Harbor (for- 
merly called Remsheg). Plaster, lime, and freestone are found here in 
large quantities, and the latter is being quarried by several companies. 
The Provincial Building at Halifax was made of Wallace stone. To the 
N. E., beyond the lighthouse on Mullin Point, is the marine hamlet oi Fox 
Harbor, whose original settlers came from the Hebrides. Pugwash (small 
inn) is 10 M. beyond Wallace, and is a flourishing port with about 3,300 
4* p 



82 Rcmteir. GOLD MINES. 

inhabitants. The harbor, though difficult of access, is deep and well shel- 
tered, and has several ship-yards on its shores. The chief exports of Pug- 
wash are deals and lumber, freestone, lime, and plaster. 



The Halifax train runs S. from Truro to Broohfteld, -whence hay and 
liimber are exported, and then to StetoiacJce, Avhich is 3 M. from the pretty 
farming village of the same name, on the Stewiacke Eiver. The next sta- 
tion is Shubenacadie (International Hotel), a busy little manufacturing 
village on the river of the same name. 

Daily stages descend the valley of the Shubenacadie for 18 M. to the N. to the 
town of Maitland (two inns), at the mouth of the river (see Route 22). Stages also 
run S. E. (Tuesday and Thursday) to Gay's River (7 M.), Gay's River Road (14 M ), 
Middle Musquodoboit (21 M.), Upper Musquodoboit (25 M.), Melrose, Guysborough, 
and Port Mulgrave, on the Strait of Canso. Gold was discovered near Gay's River 
in 1862, in the conglomerate rock of the great ridge called the Boar's Back, which 
extends for 60 M. through the inland towns. It nearly resembles the alluvial de- 
posits found in the placer-diggings of Cahfornia, and the stream-washings have 
yielded as high as an ounce per man daily. Scientific mining was begun in 1863, 
but has given only light returns. Middle Musquodoboit is a farming-town with 
about 1,000 inhabitants, situated on the S. of the Boar's Back ridge, 42 M. from 
Halifax. Upper Musquodoboit is about the same size, and beyond that point the 
stages traverse a dreary and thinly settled district for several leagues, to Melrose. 

The Halifax train runs S. W. to Elmsdale, a village near the Shuben- 
acadie Eiver, engaged in making leather and can-iages. Enfield is the 
seat of a large pottery. 7 M. N. W. are the Renfrew Gold-Mines, where 
gold-bearing quartz was discovered in 1861. Much money and labor were 
at first wasted by inexperienced miners, but of late years the lodes have 
been worked systematically, and are considered among the most valuable 
in Nova Scotia. The average yield is 16 pennyweights of gold to a ton of 
quartz, and in 1869 these mines yielded 3,097 ounces of the precious metal, 
valued at $ 61,490. The Oldham Mines are 3J M. S. of Enfield, and are 
in a deep narrow valley, along whose bottom shafts have been sunk to 
reach the auriferous quartz. Between 1861 and 1869, 9,254 ounces of gold 
were sent from the Oldham diggings, and it is thought that yet richer 
lodes may be found at a greater depth. 

Soon after leaving Enfield the train passes along the S. E. shore of Grand 
Lake, which is 8 M. long by 1-2 M. wide. It crosses the outlet stream, 
runs around Long Lake, and intersects the Windsor Branch Kailway at 
Windsor J^mction. Station, Eocl:y Lake, on the lake of the same name, 
where large quantities of ice are cut by the Nova-Scotia Ice Company, for 
exportation to the United States. 3 M. N. E. of this station are the Waver- 
ley Gold-Mines, where the gold is found in ban-el-quartz, so named because 
it appears in cylindrical masses like barrels laid side by side, or like a 
corduroy-road. At its first discovery all the floating population of Halifax 
flocked out here, but they failed to better their condition, and the total 
yield between 1861 and 1869 was only about 1,600 ounces. Waverley vil- 
lage is pictm-esquely situated in a narrow valley between two lakes, and 
has about 600 inhabitants. 



ANNAPOLIS ROUTE. Route IS. 83 

After crossing Eocky Lake the train soon reaches the shores of the 
beautiful Bedford Basin, and foUows their graceful curves for several 
miles. On the 1. are fine views of the villas and hiUs beyond the blue 
water. 

Halifax, see page 93. 

18. St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis Valley. 

This is the pleasantest route, during calm weather, between the chief cities of the 
Slantime Provinces. After a passage of about 5 hours in the steamer, across the Bay 
ot iund}^, the pretty scenery of the AnnapoUs Basin is traversed, and at Annapolis 
the passenger takes the train of the VFindsor & AnnapolL. Railway, which runs 
tnrough to Hahfax. The hne traverses a comparatively rich and picturesque coun- 
try, aboundmg m historic and poetic associations of the deepest interest 

The distance between St. John and Halifax by this route is 86 M. less than by the 
Intercolomal Railway ; but the time on both routes is about the same on account 
of the delay in crossing the Bay of Fundy. The Annapolis-Halifax line is only prac- 
ticable 4 times a week. The steamer leaves St. John at 8 a. m. , on Monday, Wednes- 
day, j^riday, and Saturday, connecting with the express trains which leave Annapolis 
at z p. M. and arrive at Halifax at about 8 p. m. Express,trains leave Halifax at 8 15 a M 
on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, connecting with the steamer which 
leaves Annapohs at 2.33 p. m. and arrives at St. John at 8 p. m. (Time-table of 1874 \ 
f. A ^•"T-^^.i.o'^^S *° Halifax, 1st class, $5; 2d class, S3.50; to Digby, $150; 
to Annapohs S 2 Passengers for Halifax dine on the steamer and take te^ kt Kent! 
I' !rV'"?"*ml' *^°^'^ ^°'' ^*- •^^^^ '^^ ^* KentviUe (18 minutes) and take tea 
on the boat. There are two through trains each way daily between Halifax and 
Annapolis. Special rates are made for excursions (Umited tune) by the agents of 
thisroute. Small & Hathaway, 39 Dock St., St. John s » "^ 

.'^^^tf'^^^^'-^^-^^^J^^o-DighyA^^l.- AnnapoUs, 61; Round Hill, 68 ; Bridge- 
Sr A'f'^i ^^^^^'^r^a^.'^' fa^encetown, 83; Middleton, 89; Wilmot, 92 ; Kingston, 
lli Onlth'^.n ^^^\^^W'^^^•f?''^'^^ WaterviUe, ill; Cambridge 

pS'iqn w °^ ^T^' .^^""^'o^ P' ^°^^ Williams, 125; Wolfville, 127; Grand 
f^' F^^^S/h'^i'"'^^^,' ^'^^'.^^^^f^'*' ^^'^5 Hantsport, 138; Mount Benson, 
hm/JlS*^ i^i,^^?' ^^ed\o^> 145 ;Three-Mile Plains, 148; Newport, 151 ; Ellers' 
r-'^"*®'!?*! S*^'li^ater,15v; Mount Uniacke, 164 ; Beaver Bank, 174; Windsor Junc- 
tion, In ; Rocky Lake, 179 ; Bedford, 182 ; Four-Mile House, 186 ; HaliStx, 190 

The steamer Empress leaves her wharf at Eeed's Point, St. John, and 
soon passes the heights and spires of Carleton on the r. and the lighthouse 
on Partridge Island on the 1., beyond which Mispeck Point is seen. Cape 
Spencer is then opened to the E., on the New Brunswick coast, and the 
steamer sweeps out into the open bay. Travellers who are subject to sea- 
sickness would do well to avoid this passage during or immediately after 
a breeze from the N. E. or S. W., or durmg a gale from any direction. At 
such times very rough water is found on the bay. It will be remembered 
that the ocean-steamships Pactolus and Connaught were lost in these 
waters. But in ordinary summer weather the bay is quiet, except for a 
light tidal swell, and wiU not affect the traveller whose mind is properly 
fixed on something outside of himself. 

Soon after passing Partridge Island, the dark ridge of the North Mt is 
seen in advance, cleft by the gap called the * Digby Gut, which in the 
earlier days, was known as St. George's Channel. The course' is laid 
straight for this pass, and the steamer runs in hj Prim Point, with its fog- 
whistle and fixed light (visible 13 M.), and enters the tide-swept defile 



84 Route IS. ANNAPOLIS BASIN. 

■with bold and mountainous bluffs rising on either side. The shores on 

the 1. are 610 ft. high, and on the r. 400-560 ft., between which the tide 

rushes -with a velocity of 5 knots an hour, making broad and powerful 

swirls and eddies over 12 - 25 fathoms of water. Aftier running for about 

2 M. through this passage, the steamer enters the Annapolis Basin, and 

runs S. by E. 3 M. to Digby. 

" The white houses of Digby, scattered over the downs like a flock of washed sheep, 
had a somewhat chilly aspect, it is true, and made us long for the sun on them. 
But as I think of it now, I prefer to have the town and the pretty hillsides that 
stand about the basia in the light we saw them : and especially do' I like to recall 
the high wooden pier at Digby, deserted by the tide and so blown by the wind that 
the passengers who came out on it, with their tossing drapery, brought to mind the 
^indy Dutch harbors that Backhiiysen painted." (Wakxee's Baddeck.) 

Digby {Daley's Hotel) is a maritime village of about 1,000 inhabitants, 
situated on the S. W. shore of the Annapolis Basin, and engaged in ship- 
building and the fisheries of haddock, mackerel, and herring. The Digby 
herring are famous for their delicacy, and are known in the Provinces as 
'•Digby chickens." Porpoises, also, are caught in the swift currents of 
the Digby Gut. The village is visited by summer voyagers on account of 
its picturesque environs and the opportunities for fishing and sporting in 
the vicinity; and attempts have been made to erect a large hotel. There 
was a French fort here in the early days; and in 17S3 the township was 
granted to the ex- American Loyalists, who founded the village of Conway 
on these shores. Stages run between Digby and Annapolis, and also from 
Digby to Yarmouth (see Eoute 25). 

It is called 18 M. from Digby to Annapolis (though this distance seems 
over-estimated when compared with the charts and the course run by the 
steamer). The * Annapolis Basin gradually decreases from a width of 
nearly 5 M. to 1 M., and is hemmed in between the converging ridges of the 
North Jit. and the South Mt. The former range has a height of 6 - 700 ft., 
and is bold and mountainous in its outlines. The South ^It. is from 300 
to 500 ft. high, and its lines of ascent are more gradual. The North Mt. 
is composed of trap, resting upon red sandstone ; and the South ]Mt. is of 
granite and metamorphic slates. The geologic theory is that the North 
Mt. was once completely insulated, and that the tides flowed through the 
whole valley, until a shoal at the confluence of the Blomidon and Digby 
currents became a bar, and this in time became dryland and a water-shed. 

Between the head of Argyle Bay and the slopes of the Annapolis Basin 
are the rarely visited and sequestered hill-ranges called the Blue Moun- 
tains. '"The Indians are said to have formerly resorted periodically to 
groves among these wilds, which they considered as consecrated places, 
in order to offer sacrifices to their gods." 

" We were sailing along the gracefully moulded and tree-covered bills of the An- 
napolis Basin, and up the mildly picturesque river of that name, and we were about 
to enter what the provincials all enthusiastically call the Garden of Nova Scotia. 
.... It is, — this valley of Annapolis, — in the be'lief of provincials, the most beau- 
tiful and blooming placie in the world, with a soil and climate kind to the husband- 



AXXAPOLIS EOYAL. Route 18. 85 

man, a land of fair meadows, orchards, and vines It was not untU we had 

trarelled over the rest of the country that we saw the appropriateness of the 
designation. The explanation is, that not so much is required of a garden here as 
in some other parts of the world."' 

Soon after leaving Digbr, Bear Island is seen in-shore on the r. , in front 
of the little port oi Bear River (inn), which has a foundry, tanneries, and 
saw-miUs. Iron and gold are found in the vicinity, and lumber and cord- 
Avood are exported hence to the United States and the West Indies. A few 
miles beyond, and also on the S. shore, is the hamlet of ChmenUport (two 
inns), where large iron-works were formerly established, in connection 
with the ore-beds to the S. Eoads lead thence to the S. W. in 10-12 M. 
to the romantic districts of the Blue Mts. and the upper Liverpool Lakes 
(see Route 27), at whose entrance is the rural village of Chmentsvah. 

8-10 M. beyond Digby the steamer passes Goat Island, of which 
Lescarbot writes, in Les Muses de la Xouvelle France (1609) : 

" Adieu mon doux plaisir fonteines et ruisseaux, 
Qui les vaux et les monts arrousez de vos eaux. 
Pourray-je t'oublier, belle ile foretiere 
Riche houneur de ce lieu et de cette riviere ?" 

In 1707 the British frigate Annibal and two brigautines were saiUng up the Basin to 
attack Annapolis, when they met such a sharp volley from the lie aus Chevres that 
they were forced to retire in confusion. The French name of the island wa^; Angli- 
cized by translation. On the point near this island was the first settlement of the 
French in Nova Scotia. A fort was erected here by the Scottish pioneers, and was 
restored to France by the Treaty of St. Germain, after which it was garrisoned by 
French troops. In 1827 a stone block was found on the point, inscribed with a 
square and compass and the date " 1606."' In May, 1782, there was a naval combat 
off Goat Island, in which an American war-brig of 8 guns was captured by H. M. S. 
Buckram . 

Above the island the Basin is about 1 M. wide, and is bordered by farm- 
streets. To the N. E., across a low alluvial point, are seen the spires and 
ramparts of Annapolis Royal, where the steamer soon reaches her wharf, 
after passing under the massive walls of the old forti-ess. There are sev- 
eral inns here, of which the American House is perhaps the best. The 
Grange is about 1 M. from the pier, and is an old country mansion, in 
broad and shadj^ grounds, now used as a summer hotel. There is also a 
restaurant near the railway-station. Stages run from Annapolis to Digby 
(Annapolis to Clementsport, 8^ M. ; Victoria Bridge, 13^; Smith's Cove, 
16 ; Digby, 20^ ; — Yarmouth, 87.^). Stages also run S. E. 78 M. (semi- 
vreekly) to Liverpool (see Eoute 27). 

Annapolis Royal, the capital of Annapolis County, is a maritime and 
agricultural village, situated at the head of the Annapolis Basin, and con- 
tains 5 - 600 inhabitants. It is frequented by summer visitors on account 
of its pleasant environs and tempered sea-air, and the opportunities for salt- 
water fishing in the Basin, and fronting among the hills to the S. The 
chief object of interest to the passing traveller is the * old fortress which 
fronts the Basin and covers 28 acres with its ramparts and outworks. It 
is entered by the way of the fields opposite Perkins's Hotel. The works 
are disarmed, and have remained unoccupied for many years. One of the 



86 Houte IS. AXXAPOLIS EOYAL. 

last occtipations was that of the Eifle Brigade, in ISoO; but the post was 
abandoned soon after, on account of the numerous and successful deser- 
tions -which thinned the ranks of the garrison. But when Canada passed 
into a state of semi-independence in 1S67, this fortress was one of the few 
domains reserved to the British Crown. The inner fort is entered by an 
ancient archway Avhich fronts towards the Basin, giving passage to the 
parade-ground, on which are the quaint old English barracks, with steep 
roofs and great chimneys. In the S. E. bastion is the magazine, with a 
vaulted roof of masoniy, near which are the foundations of the French 
barracks. From the parapet on this side are overlooked the landward out- 
works and the lines of the old Hessian and Waldecker settlements towards 
Clementsport. On the hillside beyond the marsh is seen an ancient house 
of the era of the French occupation, the only one now standing in the val- 
ley. In the bastion towards the river is a vaulted room, whence a passage 
leads down to the French garrison-wharf; but the arched way has fallen 
in, and the wharf is now but a shapeless pile of stones. The * view from 
this angle of the works is very beautiful, including the villages of Annapo- 
lis Eoyal and Granville, the sombre heights of the North and South Mts., 
and the Basin for many miles, with Goat Island in the distance. 

The road which leads by the fortress passes the old garrison cemetery, 
St. Luke's Church, the court-house and county academy, and many 
quaint and antiqiiated mansions. A ferry ci-osses the Annapolis Eiver to 
Granville (two inns), a busy little shipbuilding village, with 3-400 
inhabitants and three churches. A road leads hence across the Xorth 
Mt. in 4-5 M., to the hamlets of RiUsburn and Leitchfidd, on the Bay of 
Fundy. 

" Without the historic light of French adventure upon this town and basin of 
Annapolis .... I confess that I should have no londng to sta.v here for a -week ; 
notwithstanding the guide-book distinctly says that this harbor has ' a striking re- 
semblance to the beautiful Bay of Naples." t am not offended at this remark, for it 
is the one always made about "a harbor, and I am siu-e the passing traveller can stand 
it, if the Bay of Naples can." ( Waknek's Baddeck.) 

The Basin of Annapolis was first entered in 1604 by De Monts's fleet, exploring the 
shores of Acadie ; and the beauty of the scene so impressed the Baron de Pou- 
trincourt that he secured a grant here, and named it Port Royal. After the failure 
of the colony at St. Croix Island, the people moved to this point, bringing all 
their stores and supplies, and settled on the N. side of the river. In July, 1606, 
Lescarbot and another company of Frenchmen joined the new settlement, and 
conducted improvements of the land, while Poutrincourt and Champlain explored 
the Massachusetts coast. 400 Indians had been gathered by the sagamore Member- 
tou in a stockaded village near the fort, and all went on well and favorably until Be 
Monts's grant was annulled by the King of France, and then the colony was aban- 
doned. Lescarbot says of this expedition, and of Port Royal itself: " I must needs 
be so bold as to tell in this occuiTence, that if ever that country be inhabited 
with Christians and civil people , the first praise thereof must of right be due to 

the authors of this voyage Finally, being in the port, it was unto us a 

thing marvellous to see the fair distance and the largeness of it, and the moun- 
tains and hills that environed it. and I wondered how so fair a place did remain 
desert, being all filled with woods, seeing that so many pine away in the world 
which might make good of this land, if only they had a chief governor to conduct 
them thither.'- 



ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. Route 18. 87 

Four years later the brave Baron de Poutrincourt left his estates in Champagne 
with a deep cargo of supplies, descended the rivers Aube and Seine, and sailed out 
from Dieppe (Feb. 26, 1610) On arriving at Port Royal, everything was found as 
when left ; and the work of proselyting the Indians was at once entered on. Mem- 
bertou and his tribe were converted, baptized, and feasted, amid salutes from the 
cannon and the chanting of the Te Deum ; and numerous other forest-clans soon 
followed the same course. 

Poutrincourt was a Gallican Catholic, and hated the Jesuits, but was forced to 
take out two of them to his new domain. They assumed a high authority there 
but were sternly rebuked by the Baron, who said, " It is my part to rule you oii 
earth, and yours only to guide me to heaven." They threatened to lay Port Royal 
under interdict ; and Poutrincourt's son and successor so greatly resented this that 
they left the colony on a mission ship sent out by the Marchioness de (ruercheville 
and founded St. Sauveur, on the island of Mount Desert. In 1613, after the Vir- 
ginians under Capt. Argall had destroyed St. Sauveur, the vengeful Jesuits piloted 
their fleet to Port Royal, which was completely demolished. Poutrincourt came 
out in 1614 only to find his colony in ruins, and the remnant of the people wandering 
in the forest ; and was so disheartened that he retiu-ned to France, where he was 
killed, the next year, in the battle of Mery-sur-Seine. 

It is a memorable fact that these attacks of the Tirginians on Mount Desert and 
Port Royal were the very commencement of the wars between Great Britain and 
France in North America, " which scarcely ever entirely ceased until, at the cost of 
infinite blood and treasure, France was stripped of all her possessions in America by 
the peace of 1763." 

Between 1620 and 1630 an ephemeral Scottish colony was located at Port Royal, 
and was succeeded by the French. In 1628 the place was captured by Sir David 
Kirk, with an English fleet, and was left in ruins. In 1634 it was granted to Claude 
de Razilly, " Seigneur de Razilly, des Eaux Mesles et Cuon, en Anjou," who after- 
wards became commandant of Oleron and vice-admiral of France. He was a bold 
naval oSicer, related to Cardinal Richelieu ; and his brother Isaac commanded at 
Lahave (see Route 25). His lieutenants were D'Aulnay Charnisay and Charles de la 
Tour, and he transferred all his Acadian estates to the former, in 1642, after which 
began the feudal wars between those two nobles (see page 19). Several fleets sailed 
from Port Royal to attack La Tour, at St. John ; and a Boston fleet, in aUiance with 
La Tour, assailed Port Royal. 

In 1654 the town was under the rule of Emmanuel le Borgne, a merchant of La 
Rochelle, who had succeeded to D'Aulnay's estates, by the aid of Cesar, Duke of 
Vendome, on account of debts due to him from the Acadian lord. Later in the 
same year the fortress was taken by a fleet sent out by Oliver CromweU, but the in- 
habitants of the valley were not disturbed. 

By the census of 1671 there were 361 souls at Port Royal, with over 1,000 head of 
live-stock and 364 acres of cultivated land. In 1684 the fishing-fleet of the port was 
captured by English " corsairs " ; and in 1686 there were 622 souls in the town. In 
1690 the fort contained 18 cannon and 86 soldiers, and was taken and pillaged by- 
Sir William Phipps, who sailed from Boston with 3 war-vessels and 700 men. A 
few months later it was plundered by corsairs from the West Indies, and in 1691 
the Chevalier de Villebon took the fort in the name of France. Baron La Hontan 
wrote : " Port Royal, the capital, or the only city of Acadia, is in eff'ect no more 
than a little paltry town that is somewhat enlarged since the war broke out in 1689 
by the accession of the inhabitants that lived near Boston, the metropolitan of New 
England. It subsists upon the traffic of the skins which the savages bring thither 
to truck for European goods." In the summer of 1707 the fortress was attacked by 
2 regiments and a small fleet, from Boston, and siege operations were commenced. 
An attempt at storming the works by night was frustrated by M. de Subercase's 
vigilance and the brisk fire of the French artillery, and the besiegers were finally 
forced to retire with severe loss. A few weeks later a second expedition from Massa- 
chusetts attacked the works, but after a siege of 15 days their camps were stormed 
by the Baron de St. Castin and the Chevalier de la Boularderie, and the feebly led 
Americans were driven on board their ships. Subercase then enlarged the fortress, 
made arrangements to run off slaves from Boston ,. and planned to capture Rhode 
Island, "which is inhabited by rich Quakers, and is the resort of rascals and even 
pirates." 

In the autumn of 1710 the frigates Dragon, Chester, Falmouth, Leostaffe, Fevers- 
ham, Star, and Province, with 20 transports, left Boston and sailed to Port Royal. 



88 Route IS. THE ANNAPOLIS VALLEY. 

There -were 2 regiments from Massachusetts, 2 from the rest of New England, and 1 
of Royal Marines. After the erection of mortar-batteries, several days were spent 
in bombarding the fort from the fleet and the siege-hnes, but the fire from the ram- 
parts was kept up steadily until the garrison were on the ver^e of starvation ; Suber- 
case then surrendered his forces (258 men), who were shipped off to France, and 
Gen. Nicholson changed the name of Port Royal to Annapolis Royal, in honor of 
Queen Anne, then sovereign of Great Britain. 

In 1711, 80 New-Englanders from the garrison were cut to pieces at Bloody Brook, 
12 M. up the river, and the fortress was then invested by the Acadians and Micmacs. 
For nearly 40 years afterwards Annapolis was almost always in a state of siege, being 
menaced "from" time to time by the disaffected Acadians and their savage allies. In 
1744 the non-combatants were sent to Boston for safety , and in July of that year the 
fort was beleaguered by a force of fanatic Catholics under the Abb6 Laloutre. Five 
companies of Massachusetts troops soon joined the garrison, and the besiegers were 
reinforced by French regulars from Louisbourg. The siege was continued for nearly 
three months, but Gov. Mascarene showed a bold front, and provisions and men 
came in from Boston. The town was destroyed by the artillery of the fort and by 
incendiary sorties, since it served to shelter the hostile riflemen. Soon after Duvivier 
and Laloutre had retired, two French frigates entered the Basin and captured some 
ships of Massachusetts, but left four days before Tyng"s Boston squadron arrived. 
A year later, De Ramezay menaced the fort with 700 men, but was easily beaten off 
by the garrison, aided by the frigates Chester, 50, and Shirley, 20, whicli were lying 
in the Basin. After the deportation of the Acadians, Annapolis remained in peace 
until 1781, when two American war- vessels ascended the Basin by night, surprised 
and captured the fortress and spiked its guns, and plundered every house in the 
town, after locking the citizens up in the oM block-house. 

The Annapolis Valley. 

This pretty district has suffered, like the St. John River, from the absurdly ex- 
travagant descriptions of its local admirers, and its depreciation by Mr. Warner (see 
page 84) expresses the natural reaction which must be felt bj' travellers (unless they 
are from Newfoundland or Labrador) after comparing the actual valley with these 
high-flown panegyrics. A recent Provincial writer says: " The route of the Wind- 
sor & Annapolis Railway lies through a magnificent farming-country whose beauty 
is so great that we exhaust the English language of its adjectives, and are compelled 
to revert to the quaint old French which was spoken by the early settlers of this 
Garden of Canada, in our efforts to describe it." In point of fact the Annapolis 
region is far inferior either in beauty or fertility to the valleys of the Nashua, the 
Schuylkill, the Shenandoah, and scores of other familiar streams which have been 
described without effusion and without impressing the service of alien languages. 
The Editor walked through a considerable portion of this valley , in the process of a 
closer analysis of its features, and found a tranquil and commonplace farming- 
district, devoid of salient points of interest, and occupied by an insuflacient popula- 
tion, among M'hose hamlets he found unvarying and honest hospitality and kind- 
ness. It is a peaceful rural land, hemmed in between high and monotonous ridges, 
blooming during its brief summer, and will afford a series of pretty views and pleas- 
ing suggestions to the traveller whose expectations have not been raised beyond 
bounds by the exaggerated praises of well-meaning, but injudicious authors. 

It is claimed that the apples of the Annapolis Talley are the best in America, and 
50,000 barrels are exported yearly, — many of which are sold in the cities of Great 
Britain. The chief productions of the district are hay, cheese, and live-stock, a large 
proportion of which is exported. 

The Halifax train runs out from Annapolis over the lowlands, and takes 
a course to the N. E., near the old highway. Bridgetown {Granville 
House) is the first important station, and is 14 M. from Annapolis, at the 
head of navigation on the river. It has about 1,000 inhabitants, 4 churches, 
and a weekly newspaper, and is situated in a district of apple orchards 
and rich pastures. Some manufacturing is done on the water-power of 



WILMOT SPEINGS. Route 18. 89 

the Annapolis River ; and the surrounding country is well populated, and 
is reputed to be one of the healthiest districts in Nova Scotia. To the 
S. is Bloody Brook, where a detachment of New-England troops was mas- 
sacred by the French and Indians ; and roads lead up over the South Mt. 
into the howling wilderness of the interior. 5 M. from Bridgetown, over 
the North Mt., is the obscure marine hamlet of Hampton. 

Paradise (small inn) is a pleasantly situated village of about 400 inhab- 
itants, with several saw and grist mills and tanneries. The principal ex- 
ports ai-e lumber and cheese, though there are also large deposits of mer- 
chantable granite in the vicinity. A road crosses the North Mt. to Port 
Williams, 7 M. distant, a fishing-village of about 300 inhabitants, situated 
on the Bay of Fundy. The coast is illuminated here, at night, by two 
white lights. Farther down the shore is the hamlet of St. Croix Cove. 

Lawrencetown is a prosperous village of about 600 inhabitants, whence 
much lumber is exported. In 1754, 20,000 acres in this vicinity were 
granted to 20 gentlemen, who named their new domain in honor of Gov. 
Lawrence. 8 M. distant, on the summit of the North Mt., is the hamlet 
of Havelock, beyond Avhich is the farming settlement of Mt. Hawley, near 
the Bay of Fundy. New Albany (small inn) is a forest-village 8-10 M. 
S. E. of Lawrencetown ; and about 10 M. farther into the great central 
wilderness is the farming district of Springfield, beyond the South Mt. 

JfiWZe^ore( Mid die ton Hotel) is a small village near the old iron-mines on 
the South Mt. A few miles S. of Middleton are the Nictau Falls, a pretty 
cascade on a small mountain-stream. 1\ M, from Middleton is the ham- 
let of Lower Middleton, surrounded by orchards, with an Anglican church, 
and a seminary for young ladies. Wilmot station is ^ M. from Farming- 
ton (two inns), a pleasant little Presbyterian village. Margaretsville (Har- 
ris's Hotel) is 7 M. distant, across the North Mt., and is a shipbuilding and 
fishing settlement of 300 inhabitants, situated on the Bay of Fundy. Fruit 
and lumber are exported hence to the United States. Near this point is a 
fixed red light of high power. 

The TV^ilmot Springs are about 3 M. from Fannington, and have, for many 
years, enjoyed a local celebrity for their efficacy in healing cutaneous diseases and 
wounds. They were formerly much resorted to, but are now nearly abandoned, 
though bathing-houses and other accommodations are kept here. The springs are 
situated in a grove of tall trees near the road, filling two large basins ; and the water 
is cold, clear, and nearly tasteless. The principal ingredients are, in each gallon : 
78 grains of sulphuric acid, 54.| grains of lime, 6 grains of soda and potash, and 3 
grains of magnesia. A few visitors pass the summer at Wilmot every year, on ac- 
count of the benefits resulting from the use of these waters. 

Kingston station is 1^ M. from Kingston, 2 M. from Melvern Square, 2^ 
M, from Tremont, and 4 M. from Prince William Street, rural hamlets in 
the valley. From Morden Eoad station a highway runs N. W. 7 M. across 
the North Mt. to the little port of Morden, or French Cross (Balcomb's 
Hotel), on the Bay of Fundy. Station Aylesford (Patterson's Hotel), a 
small hamlet from which a road runs S. E. to Factory Dale (4 ]\I.), a man- 



90 F.out-: IS. KEXTVILLE. 

utaomring hamlet whence the valley is overlooked : and the farming towns 
otJack^vi vlUt and Morristoicn are 5 - 7 M. away, on the top of the South Mt. 

Hake George i^Ha::'s inn) is 12 M. distant, whence the great forest-bound chain 
cf the Aylesford Lakes may be risited. The chief of these is Kfmpt Lake, 
■svhich is about 7 M- loug. A road runs S. from the L;ike George settlement by Lake 
Paul and Owl Lake to Fa:k-Iand (32 M. from Aylesford). vrhich is on the great Lake 
Sherbrooke. in Lunenburg County, near the head-waters of the Gold River. 

'■ The great Aylesfonl Wid-pLain folks call it. in a ginral way, the Devil's Goose 
Pasture. " It is IS M. long and 7 M. wide : it ain"t just drifting sands, but it "s aU 
but that, it "s so barren. It "s uneven, or wavy, like the sweU of the sea in a calm, 
and is covered with short, thin, dry, coarse grass, and dotted here and there with a 
half-starved birch and a stimted misshapen spruce. It is jest about as silent and 

lonesome and desolate a place a* you would wish to see All that country 

thereabouts, as I have heard tell when I was a boy. was once owned by the Lord, 
the king, and the devil. The glebe-lands belonged to the first, the ungranted wil- 
demess^lands to the second, and the sand-plain fell to the share of the last (and 
people do say the old gentleman was rather done in the division, but that is neither 
here nor there), and so it is called to this day the DeviFs Goose Pasture." 

Station, BeriricJ: (two inns), a prosperous village of 400 inhabitants, 
where the manufacture of shoes is carried on. A road leads to the X. "W. 
7 M. across Pleasant Valley and the Black Rock Mt. to Harborville, a ship- 
building village on the Bay of Fundy, whence large quantities of cordwood 
and potatoes are shipped to the United States. Several miles farther up 
the bay-shore is the village of Canada Creel; near which is a lighthouse. 

At Berwick the line enters the * Comwallis Valley, which is shorter 
but much more picturesque than that of Annapolis. Following the course 
of the Comwallis River, the line approaches the base of the South Mt., 
while the Xorth Mt. trends away to the X. E. at an ever-increasing angle. 
Beyond the rural stations of AVaterville, Cambridge, and Coldbrook, the 
train reaches Zentville ( Websitr Eoiise ; restaurant in the station), the 
headquarters of the railway and the capital of Kings County-. This town 
has 1,000 inhabitants, 4 churches, and a weekly newspaper; and there are 
several mills and quarries in the vicinity. Raw umber and manganese 
have been found here. The roads to the X. across the moimtain lead to 
the maritime hamlets of Hall's Harbor (10 M.), Chipman's Brook (1-t M.), 
and Baxter's Harbor (12 M."); also to Sheffield Mills (7 M.), Canning 
(S M.), Steam MiUs (2 M.\, and Billtown (6 M.). 

KentviUe to Chester. 

The Royal mail-stage? leave KentviUe at 6 A. sr. on Monday and Thursday, reach- 
ing Chester in the afternoon. The return trip is made on Tuesday aud Friday. The 
distance between KentviUe and Chester is 40 M.. and the intervening country is 
wild and picturesque. After passing the South Mt. by the Miil-Brook YaUey, at 
8-10 M. from Kenrrille, the road runs near the Gaspereaux Laki , a beautiful 
forest-loch about 5 M. long, with many islands and highly diversitied shores. This 
water is connected by short straits with the island-studded Two-Mile Lake and the 
Four-Mile Lake, near which are the romantic Aylesford Lakes. E. and S. E. of 
the Gaspereaux Lake are the trackless solitudes of the far-spreading Blue Mts., 
amid whose recesses are the lakelets where the Gold River takes its rise. At 20 M. 
from KentviUe the stage enters the Episcopal viUage of Xeic Ross (Turner's Hotel), 
at the crossing of the Dalhousie Road from HaUfix to Annapolis. From this point 
the stage descends the valley of the Gold River to Chester (see Route 24). 



WINDSOR. Route 18. 91 

The Halifax train runs E. from Kentville down the Cornwallis Valley to 
Port Williams, which is 1^ M. from the village of that name, whence daily- 
stages run to Canning. The next station is Wolfville, from which the Land 
of Evangeline may most easily be visited (see Eoute 22). The buildings 
of Acadia College are seen on the hill to the r. of the track. 

The Halifax train runs out from Wolfville with the wide expanse of the 

reclaimed meadows on the L, beyond which is Cape Blomidon, looming 

leagues away. In a few minutes the train reaches Grand Pre, and as it 

slows up before stopping, the tree is seen (on the 1. about 300 ft. from the 

track) which marks the site of the ancient Acadian chapel. Beyond Hor- 

ton Landing the Gaspereaux Eiver is crossed, and the line begins to swing 

around toward the S. E. At Avovport the line reaches the broad Avon 

River, and runs along its 1. bank to Eanisport (two inns). This is a 

large manufacturing and shipbuilding village, where numerous vessels 

are owned. In the vicinity are productive quarries of freestone. Mount 

Benson station is near the hill whose off-look Judge Haliburton so highly 

extols : — 

" I have seen at dififerent periods of my life a good deal of Europe and much of 
America ; but I have seldom seen anything to be compared with the view of the 
Basin of Minas and its adjacent landscape, as it presents itself to you on your ascent 

of Mount Denson He who travels on this continent, and does not spend a few 

days on the shores of this beautiful and extraordinary basin, may be said to have 
missed one of the greatest attractions on this side of the water.-' 

The next station is Falmouth, in a region which abounds in gypsum. 
Back toward Central Falmouth thei-e are prolific orchards of apples. The 
line now crosses the Avon River on the most costly bridge in the Mari- 
time Provinces, over the singular tides of this system of waters. 

The traveller who passes from Annapolis to Windsor at the hours of low-tide will 
sympathize with the author of " Baddeck," who says that the Avon " would have 
been a charming river if there had been a drop of water in it. I never knew before 
how much water adds to a river. Its slimy bottom was quite a ghastly spectacle, 
an ugly rent in the land that nothing could heal but the friendly returning tide. 
I should think it would be confusing to dwell by a river that runs first one way and 
then the other and then vanishes altogether." 

The remarkable tides of this river are also described by Mr. Noble, as follows : 
The tide was out, " leaving miles of black " (red) " river-bottom entirely bare, with 
only a small stream coursing through in a serpentine manner. A line of blue water 
was visible on the northern horizon. After an absence of an hour or so, I loitered 
back, when, to my surprise, there was a river like the Hudson at Catskill, running 
up with a powerful current. The high wharf, upon which but a short time before 
I had stood and surveyed the black, unsightly fields of mud, was now up to its mid- 
dle in the turbid and whirUng stream.' ' 

Windsor ( Clifton House, large and comfortable; Avon House) is a cul- 
tured and prosperous village of 2,715 inhabitants, occupying the promon- 
tory at the intersection of the Avon and St. Croix Rivers. The adjacent 
districts of Falmouth and St. Croix have about 3,300 inhabitants. There 
are in Windsor 7 churches, a bank, and several manufactories; there are 
also several busy shipyards. The chief exportation of Windsor is plaster 
of Paris and gypsum, large quantities of which are used in the United 



92 Boute IS. WINDSOR. 

States for fertilizing the soil. Kear the end of the railway bridge, on a 
projecting hill, is the Clifton mansion, formerly the home of the genial 
and witty Thomas C. Halibiirton (born at Windsor in 1797, 13 years a 
Judge iu Xova Scotia, 6 years an M. P. at London, and died in 1865), the 
author of the "Sam Shck" books. 

On the knoll over the village are the crumbling block-houses and earth- 
works of Fort Edicard, whence is obtained a pretty view down the widen- 
ing Avon and out over the distant Basin of Minas. About 1 M. from the 
station, on a hill which overlooks the fine valley of the Avon and its lui- 
cleared mountain-rim, are the plain buildings of King's College, the old- 
est college now existing in Canada. 

It -was founded in 17S7. and chartewd by King George III. in 1S02. It is under 
the control and patronage of the Anglican Church, and" is well endowed with schol- 
arship?!, honoi-s, etc., but has only 5 professors and a limiteil number of students. 
The Nova-Scotians have not hitherto sought to qualify themselves by culture and 
study for public honors and preferments, because they knew that all the offices ia 
the Province would be fiUeil by British carpet-baggers. King's College has also a 
divinity school for Episcopjihan students. 

The "Province of Xova Scotia is occupied by 36 Christian sects. Of its inhabitants. 
6-3,124 belong to the AngUcan Church, and tu-e ministered to by a lord bishop, i 
canons, S rur:\l deans, and 6S clergymen. There are 102.001 Cathohcs. lOS.oSi* Pres- 
byterians, 73,430 Bixptists, 41.751 "Methodists, and 4,95S Lutherans (census of 1S71). 

The site of ATindsor was called by the Indians Pisiquid, " the Junction of the 
"Waters, ■■ and the adjacent lowlands were settled at an early day by the French, who 
raised large quantities of wheat and exported it to Boston, the French settled in 
this vicinity about the middle of the 17th century, but retired tar into the interior 
at the time of the British conquest. Gov. Lawrence issued a proclamation inviting 
settlers to come in from New England, stating that " 100,000 aci-es of land had been 
cultivated and had borne wheat, rye. barleyToats. hemp, flax, etc., for the last cen- 
tury without failure." The deserted French hamlets were occupied in 1759-60 by 
fi\milies fivm Massachusetts and Rhode Island, and their descendants still possess 
the land. The Rhode-Islanders erected the township of Newport, Massachusetts 
formed Fahuouth. and Windsor w:\s granted to British officers and was fortified in 
1759. The broad rich mtirshes near Windsor had attracted a large Acadian popula- 
tion, and here was their principal church, whose site is still venerated by the Mic- 
mac Indians. 

" I cannot recall a prettier village than this. If you doubt my word, come and 
see it. Yonder we discern a portion of the Basin of Minas ; around us are the rich 
meadows of Nova Scotia. Intellect has here placed a crowning coUege upon a hill ; 
opulence has surrounded it with picturesque villas.'" (CozziNS.) Another writer 
h;is spoken with enthusiasm of AViudsor's '* wide and beautiful environing mead- 
ows and the hanging-gardens of mountain-forests on the S. and W." 

The Halifax ti-ain sweeps along the St. Croix Kiver around Windsor, 
passing (on the r.) the dark buildings of King's College, on a hilltop, with 
the new chapel iu fi-ont of their line. The character of the landscape be- 
gins to change, and to present a striking contrast with the agricultural 
regions just traversed. 

*' Indeed, if a man can live on rocks, like a goat, he may settle anywhere between 
Windsor and Halifax. With the exception of a wild pond or two, we saw nothing 
but rocks and stxinted fire for forty-five miles, a monotony unrelieved by one pic- 
tui-esque feature. Then we longed for the " Gai\ien of Nova Scotia,' and understood 
what is meant by the name." ( »\"akser's Baiideck:) 

Eeycud Three-Mile Plains the train reaches X<:irj)ort, near which large 



HALIFAX. Route 19. 93 

quantities of gypsum are quarried from the veins in the soft marly sand- 
stone. Nearly 3,000 tons of this fine fibrous mineral are shipped yearly 
from Newport to the United States. To the N. are the villages of 
Brooklyn (5 M.), devoted to manufacturing; Scotch Village (9 M.), a 
farming settlement; and Burlington, on the Kennetcook Eiver (10 M.). 
Chivirie and Walton, 20-22 M. N., on the Basin of Minas, are accessible 
from Newport by a tri-weekly conveyance. The train passes on to Ellers- 
house (small inn), a hamlet clustered around a furniture-factory and 
lumber-mills. 2i M. distant is the settlement at the foot of the Ardoise 
3ft., which is the highest point of land in the Province, and overlooks 
Falmouth, Windsor, and the Basin of Minas. The train now crosses the 
Five-Island Lake, skirts Uniacke Lake, with Mt. Uniacke on the N., and 
stops at the Mt. Uniacke station (small inn). The Mt. Uniacke estate and 
mansion were founded more than 50 years ago by Richard John Uniacke, 
then Attorney-General of Nova Scotia. The house, occupies a picturesque 
position between two rock-bound lakes, and the domain has a hard- 
working tenantry. The 3Tt. Uniacke Gold-Mines are 3 il. from the sta- 
tion, and were opened in 1865. In 1869 the mines yielded $37,340, or 
$ 345 to each workman, being 6 ounces and 4 pennyweights from each 
ton of ore. For the next 10 M. the line traverses an irredeemable wil- 
derness, and then reaches Beaver Bank, whence lumber and slate are 
exported. At Windsor Junction, the train runs on to the rails of the 
Intercolonial Railway (see page 82), which it follows to Halifax. 

19. Halifax. 

Arrival from tlie Sea. — Cape Sambro is usually seen first by the passenger 
on the transatlantic steamers, and Halifax Harbor is soon entered between the light- 
houses on Chebucto Head and Devil Island. These lights are 7^ ^J- apart, Chebucto 
(on the 1.) having a revolving light visible for 18 M., and Devil Island a fixed red 
light on a brown tower. On the W. shore the fishing-hamlets of Portuguese Cove, 
Bear Cove, and Herring Cove are passed in succession. 4 M. S. E. of Herring Cove 
is the dangerous Thrumcap Shoal, where H. B. M. frigate La Tribune, 44, was 
■wrecked in 1797, and nearly all her people were lost, partly by reason of an absurd 
stretch of naval punctilio. Between this shoal and McNab's Island on one side, and 
the mainland on the other, is the long and narrow strait called the Eastern Passage. 
In 1862 the Confederate cruiser Tallahassee was blockaded in Halifax Harbor by a 
squadron of United-States frigates. The shallow and tortuous Eastern Passage was 
not watched, since nothing but small fishing-craft had ever traversed it, and it was 
considered impassable for a steamer like the Tallahassee. But Capt. Wood took ad- 
vantage of the high tide, on a dark night, and crept cautiously out behind McNab's 
Island. By daylight he was far out of sight of the outwitted blockading fleet. 

2 M. from Herring Cove the steamer passes Salisbury Head, and runs between the 
Martello Tower and lighthouse on Maugher Beach (r. side) and the York Redoubt 
{\X M. apart) Near the Redoubt is a Catholic church, and a little above is the 
hamlet of Falkland, with its Episcopal church, beyond which the N. W. Arm opens 
on the 1. Passing between the batteries on McNab's Island and Fort Ogilvie, on 
Point Pleasant, the steamship soon runs by Fort Clarence and the fortress on George 
Island, and reaches her wharf at Halifax, with the town of Dartmouth and the great 
Insane Asylum on the opposite shore. 

Arrival by Railway. — The station is at Richmond, some distance from the 
city, but passengers can go in either by carriage, hotel-omnibus, or horse-car. The 
railway is now being prolonged by a system of costly works, and will soon reach a 
terminus within the city. 



94 Route 19. HALIFAX. 



Hotels. — The * Halifax, 107 Hollis St., $ 2 a day ; the * International, on Hoi- 
lis St., S 1.75-2 a day ; Carlton House, 57 Argyle St., small but aristocratic ; Man- 
sion House, li9 Barrington St. ; Warerley, 8 Barrington St. ; and numerous small 
second-class houses, of which the Arlington and the Cambridge, nearly opposite the 
International, are the best situated (g?l- 1.25 a day). An attempt is now being 
made to provide for Halifax a first-class modern hotel, like the Victoria at St. John. 

Restaurants. — One of the best is that connected with the Acadian Hotel, 64 
Granville St. Ices, pastrj', and confectionery may be obtained at the shops on Hol- 
lis St. American beverages are compounded at the bar in the Halifax House. 

Keadiiig-Kooms. — The Young INIen's Christian Association, corner of Gran- 
ville and Prince Sts. ; the Provincial Library, in the Parliament Buildings ; and in 
the two chief hotels. The Halifax Library is at 197 Hollis St . : and the Citizens' 
Free Library (founded by Chief Justice Sir Wilham Young) is at 265 Barrington St., 
and is open from 3 to 6 p. M. The Merchants' Exchange and Reading-Room is at 
158 Hollis St. 

Clubs. — The Halifax Club has an elegant house at 155 HoUis St. ; the Albion is 
at 87 HoUis St. ; the Catholic l^oung Men's Club, 1 Grafton St. (open from 2 to 10 
P. M.); the Highland, North British, St. George's, Charitable Irish, and Germania 
Societies. The Royal Halifax Yacht Club has a house at Richmond, with billiard 
and reading rooms, and a line of piers and boat-houses for the vessels of their fleet. 

Amusements of various kinds are afforded, at different times, in the Temper- 
ance Hall, on Starr St. During the winter some fine skating is enjoyed at the Rink, 
in the Public Gardens. Good games of cricket and indifferent base-baU playing may 
be seen on the Garrison Cricket-ground. But Halifax is chiefly iamous for the in- 
terest it takes in trials of skill between yachtsmen and oarsmen, and exciting aquatic 
contests occur frequently during the svunmer. 

Horse-cars run every 15 minutes, from 6 A. M. to 10 p. m., from the Richmond 
Station to the Fresh- Water Bridge, ti-aversing the Campbell Road, Upper Water St., 
GranvUle St., Holhs, Morris, and Pleasant Sts. Also on Barrington St. and the 
Spring Garden Road to the Poor Asylum. 

Rail-vvays. — The Intercolonial, running to St. John, N. B., in 276 M. (see 
Routes 16 and 17), and to Pictou in 113 M. (see Route 31); the Windsor & Annap- 
olis, prolonged by a steamship connection to St. John (see Route 18). 

Steamsliips. — The Allan Line, fortnightly, for St. John's, N. F., Queenstown, 
and Liverpool, Norfolk, and Baltimore. Fares, Hahfax to Liverpool, $75 and 
$25; to Norfolk or Baltimore, ^20 and S12. The Anchor Line, for St. John's, 
N. F., and Glasgow. The Royal Mail Steamers Alpha and Delta (Cunard Line) leave 
Halifax for Bermuda and St. Thomas every fourth Monday, connecting at St. Thomas 
with steamships for all parts of the West Indies, Panama, and the Spanish Main. 

The Carroll and Alhambra leave Esson's "Wharf for Boston on alternate Satur- 
days. Fare, $8; with state-room, $9. The Falmouth leaves Dominion Wharf 
for Portland every Tuesday at 4 p. m. This vessel is nearly new, and is handsomely 
fitted up for passenger-trafl5c. Fares, Halifax to Portland, $ 7 and S 5 ; to Boston, 
§ 8 and $ 6.50 ; to New York (by the Sound boats), $ 12 and S 10.50. 

The Carroll or the Alhambra leaves Esson's Wharf every Monday noon for the 
Strait of Canso and Charlotte town, P. E. I. Fares to Charlottetown, cabin, $4; 
cabin state-room, $5; saloon state-room, $6. The George Shattvck leaves Boak's 
Wharf, fortnightly, for N. Sydney, C. B., and St. Pierre Miq. (see Route 50). The 
steamship Virgo leaves for Sydney, C B., and St. John's, N. F. , every alternate Tues- 
day (see Routes 36 and 51). Fares, to Sydney, § 8 ; to St. John's, % 15 ; steerage to 
either port, § 5. 

The Micmac cruises in the harbor during the summer, running from the South 
Ferry Wharf to McNab's Island and up the N. W. Arm (fare, 25c.). The steam- 
ferry from Dartmouth has its point of departure near the foot of George St. The 
Goliah makes frequent trips up the Bedford Basin. 

Stages leave Halifax daily for Chester, Lunenburg, Liverpool, Shelbume, and 
Yarmouth (see Route 24), departing at 6 a. m. Stages leave at 6 a. m. on Monday, 
Wednesday, and Friday for Musquodoboit Harbor, Jeddore, Ship Harbor, Tangier, 
Sheet Harbor, Beaver Harbor, and Salmon River (see Route 29). 

Halifax, the capital of the Province of Nova Scotia, and the chief 
naval station of the British Empire in the \Yestern Hemisphere, occupies a 
commanding position on one of the finest harbors of the Atlantic coast. It 






HALIFAX. Route 19. 95 

has 29,582 inhabitants (census of 1871), with 7 banks, 4 daily papers and 
several tri-weeklies and weeklies, and 24 churches (7 Anglican, 5 Presby- 
terian, 3 each of Catholic, Wesleyan, and Baptist). The c'lij occupies a 
picturesque position on the E, slope of the peninsula (of 3,000 acres), be- 
tween the bay, the N. W. Arm, and the Bedford Basin; and looks out 
upon a noble harbor, deep, completely sheltered, easily accessible, and 
large enough " to contain all the navies of Europe." In 1869 the imports 
amounted to $7,202,504, and the exports to $3,169,548; and in 1870 the 
assessed valuation of the city was $16,753,812. The city has a copious 
supply of water, which is drawn from the Chain Lakes, about 12 M. dis- 
tant, and so high above Halifax that it can force jets over the highest 
houses by its own pressure. There is a fire-alarm telegraph, and an effi- 
cient fire department, 'with several steam-engines. 

The city lies along the shore of the harbor for 2^ M., and is about | M. 
wide. Its plan is regular, and some of the business streets are well built ; 
but the general character of the houses is that of poor construction and 
dingy colors. It has, however, been much bettered of late years, owing to 
the improvements after two great fires, and to the wealth which flowed in 
during the American civil war, and hardly deserves the severe criticism 
of a recent traveller: "Probably there is not anywhere a more rusty, for- 
lorn town, and this in spite of its magnificent situation." 

Hollis and Granville Streets, in the vicinity of the Parliament Buildings, 
contain the most attractive shops and the headquarters of the great import- 
ing houses. Many of the buildings in this section are of solid and elegant 
construction, though the prevalence of dark colors gives a sombre hue to 
the street lines. 

The Parliament Building occupies the square between HoIHs, George, 
Granville, and Prince Streets, and is surrounded with trees. In 1830 this 
plain structure of gray stone was called the finest building in North 
America, but American architecture has advanced very far since that 
time. Opposite the Granville-St. entrance is the Library, occupying a 
very cosey little hall, and supplied with British and Canadian works on 
law, history, and science. In the N. part of the building is the plain and 
commodious hall of the House of Assembly ; and on the S. is the chamber 
of the Legislative Council, in which are some fine portraits. On the r. and 
1. of the vice-regal throne are full-length * portraits of King George III. 
and Queen Charlotte; on the N. wall are Chief Justice Blowers, King 
Wilham IV., Judge Haliburton (see page 92), * Sir Thomas Strange (by 
Benjamin West), and Sir Brenton Haliburton. Opposite the throne are 
Nova Scotia's military heroes. Sir John Inglis (the defender of Lucknow) 
and Sir W. Fenwick Williams of Kars. On the S. wall are full-length por- 
traits of King George II. and Queen Caroline. 

The new Provincial Building is E. of the Parliament Building, on 
Hollis St., and is 140 by 70 ft in area. It is built of brown freestone, in 



96 Boutc 19. HALIFAX. 

an omate style of architectnre, and cost §120,000. The lower storj- is 
occnpied by tlie Post-Otfice ; and the third floor contains the * Provincial 
Museum, which exhibits preserved birds, animals, reptiles, fossils, min- 
erals, shells, coins, and specimens of the stones, minerals, coals, and gold 
ores of Xova Scotia. There are also numerous Indian relics, curiosities 
from Japan aud China, naval models, and old portraits. Opposite the en- 
trance is a gilt pyramid, which represents the amount of gold produced 
in the Province between 1SG2 and 1S70, — 5 tons, 8 cwt., valued at 
S 3,373,4:31. Most of this gold has been coined at the U. S. Mint in Phila- 
delphia, and is purer and finer than that of California and Jlontana. 

On the corner of GnmviUe and Prince Streets, near the Parliament 
Bnilding, is the new and stately stone building of the Young Men's Chris- 
tian Association, with its reading-rooms and other departments. The 
massive brownstone house of the Halifax Club is to the S.. on HoUis St. 

The * Citadel covers the summit of the hill upon whose slopes the city is 
built, and is 250 ft. above the level of the sea. Visitors are adriiitted and 
allowed to pass around the ramparts under escort of a soldier, at\er regis- 
tering their names at the gate. The attendant soldier will point out all 
the objects of interest, and (if he be an artillerist) will give instructive 
discourse on the armament, though his language may sometimes become 
hopelessly technical. The Citadel is a fortress of the first class, according 
to the standards of tlie old school ; though of late years the government 
has bestowed much attention on the works at George's Island, which are 
more important in a naval point of view. 

The -works were commenced bv Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent, and the father 
of Queen Tictoria. who was then Commander of the Forces on this station. He em- 
ployed in the service a large number of the Maroons, who had been conquered by 
the" British, and were banished from Jamaica, and subsequently deported to Sierra 
Leone. Changes and additions have been made nearly every year since, until the 
present immense stronghold has been completed. It is separated fivrn the glacis by 
a deep moat, over which are the guns on the numerous bastions. The massire ma- 
sonry of the walls seems to defy assault, and the extensive barracks witMn are said 
to be bomb-proof. During the years lS7o-7i the artUlery has been changed, and 
the previous mixed armament lias been to a great degree replaced by muzzle-load- 
ing "Woolwich guns of heavy calibre, adapted for firing the conical Palliser shot with 
points of chill«?d iron. The" visitor is allowed to walk around the circtut of the ram- 
parts, and this elevated station affords a broad view on either side. Perhaps the 
l-est prospect is that from the S. E. bastion, overlooking the crowded city on the 
slopes below: the narrow harbor with its shipping: Dartmouth, sweeping up to- 
ward Bedford Basin; Fort Clarence, below Dartmouth, with its dark casemates; 
McXab's Island, crowned with batteries and shutting in the Eastern Passage : the 
outer harbor, with its fortified points, and the ocean beyond. 

Near the portal of the citadel is an outer battery of antiquated guns ; and at the 
S. end of the glacis are the extensive barracks of the Royal Artillery. Other mili- 
t:iry quarters are seen on the opposite side of the Citadel. 

"But if you cast your eyes over yonder magnificent bay, where vessels bearing 
flags of all nations are at anchor, and then let your vision sweep past and over the 
islands to the outlets beyond, where the quiet ocean lies, bordered with fog-banks 
that loom ominously at the boundary -line of the horizon, you will see a picture of 
marvellous beauty: for the coast scenery here transcends our own sea-shores, both 
in color and outline. And behind us again stretch large green plains, dotted with 
cottages, and bounded with undulating hills, with now and then glimpses of blue 



HALIFAX. . Route 19. 97 

■water ; and as we walk down Citadel Hill, we feel half reconciled to Halifax, its 
quaint mouldy old gables, its soldiers and sailors, its fogs, cabs, penny and half- 
penny tokens, and all its little, odd, outlandish peculiarities."' (Cozzcns.) 

Lower Water St. borders the harbor-front, and gives access to the 
wharves of the various steamship and packet lines. It runs from the 
Ordnance Yai-d, at the foot of Buckingham St., to the Government reser- 
vation near George Island, and presents a remarkably dingy and dilapi^ 
dated appearance throughout its entire length. 

The Queen's Dockyard occupies ^ M. of the shore of the upper harbor, 
and is surrounded on the landward side by a high stone-wall. It contains 
the usual paraphernalia of a first-class navy-yard, — storehouses, machine- 
shops, docks, arsenals, a hospital, and a line of officers' quarters. It is 
much used by the frigates of the British navy, both to repair and to refit, 
and the visitor may generally see here two or three vessels of Her Britan- 
nic Majesty. 

The Dockyard was founded in 1758, and received great additions (including the 
present wall) in 1770. During the two great wars with the United States it was 
invaluable as a station for the royal navy, whose fleets thence descended upon the 
American coast. Many trophies of the war of 1812 were kept here (as similar marine 
mementos of another nation are kept in the Brooklyn and Washington Navy- Yards), 
including the figure-head of the unfortunate American frigate, the Chesapeake, 
which was captured in 1813, off Boston Harbor, by the British frigate Shannon, and 
was brought into Halifax with great rejoicing. It is , perhaps, in kindly recognition 
of the new fraternity of the Anglo-American nations, that the Imperial Government 
has lately caused these invidious emblems of strife to be removed. 

The Dockyard is not open to the public, but the superintendent wiU generally 
admit visitors upon presentation of their cards. 

In the N. W. part of the city, near the foot of Citadel Hill, is the 
Military Hospital, before which is the Garrison Chapel, a plain wooden 
building on whose inner walls are man}^ mural tablets in memory of ofll- 
cers who have died on this station. Beyond this point, Brunswick St. 
runs N. W. by the Church of the Redeemer to St. George's Church, a sin- 
gular wooden building of a circular form. At the corner of Brunswick 
and Gerrish Sts. is a cemetery, in which stands a quaint little church 
dating from 1761, having been erected by one of the first companies of 
German immigrants. 

On Gottingen St. is the Church of St. Joseph, where the Catholic seamen 
of the fleet attend mass on Sunday at 9^ A. m. Near this building is the 
Orphan Asylum of the Sisters of Charity. 

Farther N. on Gottingen St. is the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, beyond 
which, on North St., is the Roman Catholic College of St. Mary, at Belle 
Air. This institution is under the charge of the Christian Brothers, and 
has the same line of studies as an American high-school. Farther out on 
Gottingen St. is the Admiralty House, the official residence of the com- 
mander-in-chief of the North-American and WestJpdian Squadrons, be- 
yond which are the Wellington Barracks, over the Richmond railway- 
station. From the plateau on which the secluded AdmJralty House is 
5 '■■■■■ ' ■■ ■' '■■ ■■ ^- " 



9S Fu^ut; 19. HALIFAX. 

located, the visitor can look down en the Queen's Dockyard, the fleet, 
and the inner harbor. 

The Eomon Carhohc Cathedral of St. Mary is on the Spring Garden 
Eoad. near its intersection with Pleasant St. It has recently been much 
enlarged and improved by the addition of an elegant granite facade and 
spire, in florid Ok>thic architectnre. The Cathedral fronts on an old and 
honored cemetery, on -whose E. side is a finely conceived *monnment to 
Welsford and Parker, the Xova-Scotian heroes of the Crimean War. 
(Major Welsford was killed in the storming of the Eedan.) It consists of 
a small bnt massive arch of browustone. standing on a broad gnmite base, 
and supporting a statue of the British lion. Opposite the cemetery, on 
Pleasant St., is the Presbyterian Chnrch of St. Matthew (under the care 
of Rev. George M. Grant). Above the Cathedral, on the Spring Garden 
Eoad. is the handsome building of the Court House, well situated amid 
open grounds, near the jail and the capacious drill-sheds. 

The fforficultural Gardtus are on the Spring G:irden Eoad, and are weU 
arranged and cared, for. They were purchased by the city in September, 
1S74. and were then tmited with the Public Gardens, which are just S. of 
Citadel Hill. MiUtary music is given here by the garrison bands during 
the summer. Xear the Gardens is the Convent of the Sacred Heart, a 
stately building situated in pleasant groimds. The Pix^testant Cemetet^ 
adioins the Horticulrural Gardens on the W., and contains a great num- 
ber of monuments. In the same quarter of the city, below Morris St., are 
the new Blind Asylum, the City Hospital, and the immense and stately 
buildini: of the Poor Asyltmi, lately completed at a cost of $260,000. 

The Government House is a short distance beyond St. ^Matthew's 
Church, on Pleasant St., and is the official residence of the Lieutenant- 
Governor of Xova Scotia. It is a plain and massive old stone building, 
w::h projecting wings, and is nearly surrounded by trees. Farther S , on 
3I:rris St., is the Anglican Cathedral of St. Luke, a plain and homely 
wooden building. Beyond this point are the pretty wooden churches and 
villas which extend toward Point Pleasant. 

At the foot of South St. are the Ordnance Grounds, from whos^ -wharf the lower 
harbor i? overlooked. About l.SO«-"* ft. distant is Georse's Island, on -which is 
a po-s^erfiil modem fortress, 'beaxing a heavy armament from -svhioh unmense chilled- 
iron or steel-pointed shot could be hurled' agtunst a hostile fleet. This position is 
the kev to the harbor, and converges its fire vdzh that of Fort Carina, a low but 
massive easemated work. 1 M. S.~E. on the Dartmouth shore, -whose guns could 
sweep the Eastern Passage and the inner harbor. The passage from the outer har- 
bor is defended fcv the York Redoubt, near Sandwich Point, by a new line of bat- 
teries on the X. W. sh<^e of McNab's Island, and by the forts on Point Pleasant. 

At the comer of Prince and Barrington Sts. is St. Paul's Episcopal 
Church, a plain and spacious old building (built in 1750). with numerous 
mural tablets on the inner walls. Dalhousie Colkge and University is at 
the comer of Duke and BaiTiugton Sts.. and was fotmded by the Earl of 
Dalhousie while he was Governor-General of Canada. Its design was to 



HALIFAX. Route 19. 99 

provide means for the liberal education of young men who did not wish to 
go (or Avere debarred from going) to King's College, at Windsor. There 
are 7 professors in the academic department, and the medical school has 
13 professoi-s. 

In the summer of 1746 the great French Armada sailed from Brest to conquer the 
British North-American coast from Virginia to Newfoundland. It was commanded 
by the Duke d'Anville,aud was composed of the line-of-battle ships Trident, Ardent, 
Mars, and Alcide, 64 guns each ; the Nortlnmiherland , Carillon, Tigre, Leopard, and 
Rfiiionunce, GO guns each; the Diamant, 50; Megere, 30; Argonaute , 26 ; Prince 
d'' Orange , 2Q ; the Par/ait, Mercure, Palme, Girous, Perle, and 22 other frigates, 
with 30 transports, carrying an army of 3,150 soldiers. D'Anville's orders were to 
" occupy Louishourg, to reduce Nova Scotia, to destroy Boston, and ravage the 
coast of New England." The Armada was dispersed, however, by a succession of 
unparalleled and disastrous storms, and D'Anville reached Chebucto Bay (Halifax) 
on Sept. 10, with only 2 ships of the line and a few transports. Six days later the 
unfortunate Duke died of apoplexy, induced by grief and distress on account of the 
disasters which his enterprise had suffered. The Tice-Admiral D'Estournelle com- 
mitted suicide a few days later. Some other vesfcli now arrived here, and immense 
barracks were erected along the Bedford Basin. 1 ,'200 men had died from scurvy on 
the outward voyage, and the camps were soon turned into hospitals. Over 1,000 
French soldiers and 2 - 300 Micmac Indians died around the Basin and were buried 
near its quiet waters. Oct. 13, the French fleet, numbering 5 ships of the line 
and 25 frigates and transports, sailed from Halifax, intending to attack Annapolis 
Royal; but another terrible storm arose, while the vessels were off Cape Sable, and 
scattered the remains of the Armada in such wide confusion that they were obliged 
to retire from the American waters. 

The Indians called Halifax harbor Chebucto, meaning "the chief haven," and the 
French named it La Baie Saine, "on account of the salubrity of the air." 

In the year 1748 the British Lords of Trade, incited by the people of Massachu- 
setts, determined to found a city on the coast of Nova Scot?' partly in prospect of 
commercial advantages, and partly to keep the Acadians in check. Parliament 
voted £40,000 for this purpose; and on June 21, 1749, a fleet of 13 transports 
and the sloop-of-w'ar Sphinx arrived in the designated harbor, bearing 2,370 colo- 
nists (of whom over 1,500 were men). The city was laid out in July, and was named 
in honor of George Montagu, Earl of Halifax, the head of the Lords of Trade. The 
Acadians and the Indians soon sent in their submission ; but in 1751 the suburb of 
Dartmouth was attacked at night by the latter, and many of its citizens were massacred. 
500 Germans settled here in 1751-52, but it was found diiScult to preserve the col- 
ony, since so many of its citizens passed over to the New-England Provinces. The great 
fleets and armies of Loudon and Wolfe concentrated here before advancing against 
Louishourg and Quebec ; and the city afterwards grew in importance as a naval sta- 
tion. Representative government was established in 1758, and the Parliament of 
1770 remained in session for 14 years, while Halifax was made one of the chief sta- 
tions whence the royal forces were directed upon the insurgent American colonies. 
After the close of the Revolutionary ^Yar, many thousands of exiled Loyalists took 
refuge here ; and the wooden walls and towers with which the city had been forti- 
fied were replaced with more formidable defences by Prince Edsvard. 

The ancient palisade-wall included the space between the present Salter, Barring- 
ton, and Jacob Streets, and the harbor ; and its citadel was the small Government 
House, on the site of the present Parliament Building, which was surrounded with 
hogsheads filled with sand, over which light cannons were displayed. 

The growth of Halifax during the present century has been very slow, in view of 
its great commercial advantages and possibilities. The presence of large bodies of 
troops, and the semi-military regime of a garrison-town, have had a certain effect in 
deadening the energy of the citizens. Great sums of money were, however, made 
here during the American civil war, when the sympathies of the Haligonians were 
•warmly enlisted in favor of the revolted States, and many blockade-runners sailed 
hence to reap rich harvests in the Southern ports. The cessation of the war put a 
stop to this lucrative trade ; but it is now hoped that the completion of the Inter- 
colonial Railway to St. John and Quebec will greatly benefit Hahfax. There is a 
rivalry between St. John and Halifax which resembles that between Chicago and St. 
Louis, and leads to similar journalistic tournaments. St. John claims that she has 



100 F.outcCO. THE EXYIKOXS OF HALIFAX. 

a first-olaj^s hotel and a theatre, which Halifax has not ; and the Nova-Scotian citv 
answers, in rvtiirn,that she ha^ the b<?st cricket-olnb and the champion oarsman of 
America. 

Sir William Fen wick Williams, of Kars. Bart., K. C. B., D. C L.. was horn at Hali- 
fox in ISliO. Alter serving iu Ceylon, Tnrkey, and Persia, he instructed the Moslem 
artillery, and fortiued the city of Kars. Herx? he was besieged by the Bnssiaus, imdcr 
OJ^n. Mouravieff. He defeated the enemy near the city, bnt was force^l to surrender 
after a heroic defence of six months, being a sacrifice to British diplomacy. He was 
atterwarvls Commander of the Forces in Canada. 

Ailmiral Sir rn.>T0 WaUis w:\s born at Halifiix in 1791, and was early engaged in 
the great battle between the Chopatra, 32. and the French YiUf df An?an,"4;tv He 
atterwards served on the Curienx. the Gloire. and the Siiannon, to whose command 
he succeeded after the battle with the Chesapeake. 

20. The Environs of Halifax. 

The favorite drive from H;\lifax is to the Four-JIilc House, and along 
the shores of the * Bedford Easin. This noble sheet of water is 5 ^l. long 
and 1-3 M. wide, with from S to 3G lathoms of depth. It is enteivd by 
way of the JVarrojrs, a passage 2A-3 M. long and ^ ]M. wide, leading from 
Halifax Harbor. It is bordered on all sides by bold hills 200 -SSO ft. in 
height, between which are 10 square miles of secnre anchoring-gromid. 
The A-iUage of Bedford is on the AV. shore, and has several summer hotels 
(. Belle vue, Bedford, etc.). The steamer Goliah leaves Halifax for Bedford 
at 11 A. M. and 2 p. m. daily. During the summer the light vessels of the 
Boyal Halifax Yacht Club are seen in the Basin daily : and exciting rowing- 
matches sometimes come otf near the Four-Mile House. 

Along the shores of the Bedford Basin were the mournful camps and horpitals cf 
the French Armada, in 174o, and 1,300 men were buried there. Their remaic-r. were 
found by subsequent settlers. The first permanent colonies along these shores were 
made by Massachusetts Loyalists in 17SA. 

I£::}7:n:cnJ's Piaiiis are 7 M. W. of Bedford, and were settled in 1S15 by slaves 
brouglit away from the shores of Mrjyland and Yirginia by the Eritisli fieet:. This 
is, like the other vfllages of freed blacks throughout the Province, dirty and dilnri- 
dated to the last degive. To the N. V.". is the Poctir acX- Lalx, 4. M. long, with di- 
versified shores, and abounding in trout. 

'* The road to Point Pleasant is a favorite promenade in the long Acadirai 
twilights. Midway between the cir\- and the Point lies 'Kissing Bridge,' 
which the Halifax maidens sometimes pass over. "Who gathers tell nobody 
knows, bu: — " 

Point Pleasant projects between the harbor and the X. Vr. Arm. r.nd is 
covered with pretty groves of evergreen trees, threaded by narroAv roads, 
and now being laid out for a public park. The principal fortification is 
Fori OffUcie. a gan-isoned post, whose artillerA- commands the channel. 
A short distance to the W. is the antiquated strucrure colled the Prince of 
Waks's Toicer, from which fine views are afibrded. The Point Pitasant 
Battery is near the water's edge, and is intended to sweep the outer 
passage. 

The Northwest Arm is 4 M. long and ^ M. wide, and is a river-like 
inlet, which nms X. \V. from the harbor to within 2 ^M. of the Bedford Basin. 



DARTMOUTH. Route 21. 101 

Its shores are high and picturesque, and on the Halifax side are several 
fine mansions, surrounded by crnamental grounds. In the upper part of 
the Arm is Melville Island, where American prisoners were kept during 
the War of 1812. Ferguson's Cove is a picturesque village on the N. W. 
Arm, inhabited chicly by fishermen and pilots. 

The steamer Micmac makes regular trips during the summer up the 
N. W. Arm, and to McNab''s Island, which is 3 M. long, and has a sum- 
mer hotel and some heavy military works. The Micmac leaves the South 
Ferry Wharf at 10 A. M. and 12, and 2 and 3 p. m. 

Dartmouth {Acadian House) is situated on the harbor, opposite the city 
of Halifax, to which a steam ferry-boat makes frequent trips. It has sev- 
eral pretty villas belonging to Hahfax merchants ; and at about ^ M. from 
the village is the spacious and imposing building of the Mount Hope Asylum 
for the Insane, a long, castellated granite building which overlooks the 
harbor. Dartmouth has 4,358 inhabitants and 5 churches, and derives 
prosperity from the working of several foundries and steam-tanneries. It 
is also the seat of the Chebucto Marine Railway. This town was founded 
in 1750, but was soon afterwai'ds destroyed, with some of its people, by the 
Indians. In 1784 it was reoccupied by men of Nantucket who preferred 
royalism to republicanism. The Montague Gold-Mlnes are 4 M. from 
Dartmouth, and have yielded in paying quantities. Cow Bay is a few miles 
S. E. of Dartmouth, and is much visited in summer, on account of its fine 
marine scenery and the facilities for bathing. The Dartmouth LaJces com- 
mence within 1 M. of the town, and were formerly a favorite resort of 
sportsmen, but are now nearly fished out. 

21. The Basin of Miu as.— Halifax to St. John. 

Halifax to Windsor, see Route 18 (in reverse). 

The steamer leaves Windsor every Wednesday at high, -water, touching at Parrs- 
boro', and thence running down the Bay to St. John. 

Ttie steamer leaves St. John (Keed's Point) every Tuesday evening at high -water, 
for Parrsboro' and Windsor. Fares, St. John to Parrsboro' or Windsor, ^3; to 
Londonderry, Maitland, or Halifax, $ 4. 

As the steamer moves out from her wharf at Windsor, a pleasant view 
is afforded of the old college town astern, with the farming village of Fal- 
mouth on the 1., and shipbuilding Newport on the r., beyond the mouth of 
the St. Croix River. The shores are high and ridgy, and the mouth of 
the Kennetcook River is passed (on the r.) about 5 M. below Windsor. 
2-3 M. below is ffantsport (1. bank), a thriving marine village opposite 
the mouth of the Cockmigon River. On Horton Bluff (1. bank) is a hght- 
house which sustains a powerful fixed white light, visible for 20 M., and 
beyond this point the steamer enters the * Basin of Minas. On the 1. are 
the low ridges of Long Island and Boot Island, rising on the margin of a 
wide and verdant meadoAv. The meadov.' is Grand Pre, the land of 
Evangeline (see Route 22), Wile after mile the fertile plains of Cornwallis 



102 Routed. CAPE BLOMIDON. 

open on the 1., bounded by the Horton hills and the dark line of the North 
Mt. In advance is the bold and clear-cut outline of Cape Blomidon, 
brooding over the water, and on the r. are the Ioav but well-defined bluffs 
of Chivirie, rich in gypsum and limestone. It is about 22 M. from the 
mouth of the Avon to Parrsboro', and the course of the steamer continu- 
ally approaches Blomidon. 

Cape Blomidon is a vast precipice of red sandstone of the Triassic era, with 
strong marks of volcanic action. " The dark basaltic wall, covered with thick 
■woods, the terrace of amygdaloid, with a luxuriant growth of light-green shrubs 
and young trees that rapidly spring up on its rich and moist surface, the precipice 
of bright red sandstone, always clean and fresh, and contrasting strongly with the 
trap above, .... constitute a combination of forms and colors equally striking, if 
seen in the distance from the hills of Hoi ton or Parrsboro', or more nearly from 
the sea or the stony beach at its base. I lomidon is a scene never to be forgotten by 
a traveller who has wandered a^-ound its shores or clambered on its giddy preci- 
pices." The cape is about 570 ft. high, and presents an interesting sight when its 
dark-red summit is peering above the white sea-fogs. Sir William Lyell, the emi- 
nent British geologist, made a careful study of the phenomena of this vicinity. 

The Indian legend says that Blomidon was made hy the divine Glooscap, who 
broke the great beaver-dam off this shore and swung its end around into its present 
position. Afterwards he crossed to the nev-made cape and strewed its slopes with 
the gems that are found there to-day, carrying tLcnce a set of rare ornaments for 
his ancient and mysterious female companion. The beneficent chief broke away the 
beaver-dam because it was flooding all the Corn\ ; ^"is Valley, and in his conflict with 
the Great Beaver he threw at him huge masses of rock and earth, which are the 
present Five Islands. W. of Utkogunrheech (Blomidon) the end of the dam swept 
around and became Fleegim (Cape Spht). 

As Blomidon is left on the port beam, the steamer hurries across the 
rapid currents of the outlet of the Basin. In front is seen the white vil- 
lage of Parrsboro', backed by the dark undulations of the Cobequid Mts. 
Just before reaching Parrsboro' the vessel approaches and passes Par- 
tridge Island (on the 1.), a singular insulated hill 250 ft. high, and con- 
nected with the mainland at low tide by a narrow beach. 

Partridge Island was the Pidowech Munegoo of the Micmacs, and was a favorite 
location for legends of Glooscap. On his last great journey from Newfoundland by 
Pictou through -Acadia and into the unknown West, he l^uilt a grand road from 
Fort Cumberland to this shore for the use of his weary companions. This miracu- 
lously formed ridge is now occupied by the post-road to the N. W., and is called by 
the Indians Oivwokun (the causeway). At Partridge Island Glooscap had his cel- 
ebrated revel with the supernatural Kit-poos-e-ag-unow, the deliverer of all op- 
pressed, who was taken out alive from his mother (slain by a giant), was" thrown 
into a well, and, being miraculously preserved there, came forth in due time to fulfil 
his high duty to men. These marvellous friends went out on the Basin in a stone 
canoe to fish by torchlight, and, after cruising over the dark waters for some time, 
speared a monstrous whale. They tossed him into the canoe "as though he were a 
trout," and made for the shore, where, in their brotherly feast, the whale was en- 
tirely devoured. 

Parrsboro' (two inns) is prettily situated at the mouth of a small river, 
and under the shelter of Partridge Island. It has about 900 inhabitants, 
with three churches, and is engaged in the lumber-trade. The beauty of 
the situation and the views, together with the sporting facilities in the 
back-country, have made Parrsboro' a pleasure resort of considerable re- 
pute, and the neat hotel called the Summer House is well patronized. This 
is one of the best points from which to enter the fine hunting and fishing 



PARRSBORO'. Route 21. 103 

districts of Cumberland County, and guides and outfits may be secured 
here. Amlierst (see page 78) is 36 M. distant, by highways following the 
valleys of the Parrsboro' and Maccau Rivers. 

"Parrsboro' enjoys more than its share of broad, gravelly beach, overhung -with 
clifted and woody bluffs. One fresh from the dead walls of a great city would be de- 
lighted with the sylvan shores of Parrsboro'. The beach, with all its breadth a 
miracle of pebbly beauty, slants steeply to the surf, which is now rolling up in curl- 
ing clouds of green and white. Here we turn westward into the great bay itself 
going with a tide that rushes like a mighty river toward a cataract, whirling boil- 
ing, breaking in half-moons of crispy foam." (L.L.Noble.) ' 

" Pleasant Parrsboro', with its green hills, neat cottages, and sloping shores laved 
by the ?ea when the tide is full, but wearing quite a different aspect when the tide 
goes out ; for then it is left perched thirty feet high upon a red clay bluff, and the 
fishing-boats which were afloat before are careened upon their beam ends, high and 
dry out of Avater. The long massive pier at which the steamboat lately landed, 
lifts up its naked bulk of tree-nailed logs, reeking with green ooze and sea-weed ; and 
a high conical island which constitutes the chief feature of tho landscape is trans- 
formed into a bold promontory, connected with the mainland by a huge ridge of 
brick-red clay." (Hallock.) 

Gentlemen who are interested in geological studies will have a rare chance to make 
collections about Parrsboro' and the shores of Minas. The most favorable time is 
when the bluffs have been cracked and scaled by recent frosts ; or just after the close 
of the winter, when much fresh debris is found at the foot of the cliffs. Among the 
minerals on Partridge Island are: analcime, apophyllite, amethyst, agate, apatite, 
caleite (abundant, in yellow crystals), chabazite, chalcedony, cat's-eye, gypsum, 
hematite, heulandite, magnetite, stilbite (very abundant), jasper, cacholong, opal, 
semi-opal, and gold-bearing quartz. About Cape Blomidon are found analcime, 
agate,_ amethyst, _apophyllite._ caleite, chalcedony, chabazite-gmelinite, faroelite, 
hematite, magnetite, heulandite, laumonite, fibrous gypsum, malachite, mesolite, 
native copper, natrohte, stilbite, psilomelane, and quartz. Obsidian, malachite, gold, 
and copper are found at Cape d'Or ; jasper and fine quartz crystals, on Spencer's 
Island ; augite, amianthus, pyrites, and wad, at Parrsboro' ; and both at Five Islands 
and Scotsman's Bay there are beautiful specimens of moss agate. At Cornwallis 
is found the rare mineral called Wichtisite (resembhng obsidian, in gray and deep 
blue colors), which is only known in one other place on earth, at Wichtis, in Fin- 
land. The purple and violet quartz, or amethyst, of the Minas shores, is of great 
beauty and value. A BlomJdon amethyst is in the crown of France, and it is now 
270 years since the Sieur de Monts carried several large amethysts from Partridge 
Island to Henri IV. of France. These gems *are generally found in geodes, or after 
fresh falls of trap-rock. 

Advocate Harbor and Cape cZ' Or. 

A bi-weekly stage runs W. from Parrsboro' through grand coast scenery, 
for 28 M., passing the hamlets of Fox Harbor and Port Greville, and stop- 
ping at Advocate Harbor. This is a sequestered marine hamlet, devoted 
to shipbuilding and the deep-sea fisheries, and has about 600 inhabitants. 
It is about 60 M. from Amherst, by a road leading across the Cobequid 
Mts. and through Apple River (see page 80). Some of the finest marine 
scenery in the Provinces is in this vicinity. 3-4 M. S. is the immense 
rocky peninsula of * Cape d'Or, almost cut off from the mainland by a deep 
ravine, in whose bottom the salt tides flow. Cape d'Or is 500 ft. high, and 
has recently become noted for its rich copper deposits. Off" this point there 
is a heavy rip on the flood-tide, which flows with a velocity of 6 knots an 
hour, and rises 33 - 39 ft. 8 M. W. of Advocate Harbor, and visible across 



lOi R:::^ 2L BASIX OF MIXAS. 

tie :ren bav, is * Cape CMgneeto. a wonderftd headland of rock. 730 - SOO 

ft. higb, mnning down sheer inro the deep waters. This moiintain-prom- 

ontoiy marks the diTision of the currents of the ^linas and Chignecto 

Channels. 

Cape d'Or is sometimes called Cap Dori on the ancient maps, and received its 
name on account of the copper ore which -wus found here hj the earlv French ex- 
ploras, and ^ra5 supposed to he goM. The Acadians afterwards opened mines here, 
and the name. L£S iEn(s. originaily applied to a r-art cf this shore, was given to the 
noble salt-warer lake to the^E. 3l!::a^ is either an English modification or the 
Spanish equi-raient thereof Cape dOr was granrel to the Duke of Chandos many 
jeais ago, but he did not continue the mining operations. 



After leaving Parrsboro' the sreamer runs "VT. through the passage be- 
tween Cape Blomidon and Cape Sharp, which is 3.^ M. wide, and is swept 
by the tide at the rate of 6-8 knots an hour. On the r. the ravines of 
Diligent Eiver and Fox Eiver break the iron-bound coasts of Cumberland 
Countv; and on the 1. is a remarkable promonton.-. 7 M. long and 1 ^f. 
wide, with an altitude of 400 feet, mnning W. from Blomidon between 
the channel and the semicircular bight of Scotsman's Bay. Cape Split 
is the end of this sea-dividing mountain, beyond which the S. shores 
fall suddenly away, and the steamer enters the Minas Channel. 12 31. 
beyond Cape Split, Spencer's Island and Cape Spencer are passed on the 
X., beyond which are the massive cliffs of Cape d'Or. On the 1. are the 
unvarying ridges of the Xorth Mt., with obscure fishiog-hamlets along 
the shore. To the X. the frowning mass of Cape Chicnecto is seen; and 
the course passes within sight of the lofty and lonely rock of Isle Haute, 
which is 7 M. from the nearest shore. It is Ih ^I. long and 350 ft. high, 
and is exactly intersected by the parallel of 65' W. from Greenwich. 

The steamer now passes down over the open waters of the Bay of Fundy. 
St. John is about 62 nautical milesfrom Isle Haute, in a straight line, and 
is a little X. of W. fix)m that point, but the exigencies of navigation re- 
quire a course considerably longer and more southerly. This portion of 
the route is usually traversed at night, and scon after passing the p>owerful 
first-class red revolving-light on Cape Spencer {'Se-^ Brunswick), the steamer 
runs in by the Partridge-Island light, and enters the harbor of St. John 
about the break, of day. 

St. John, see page 15. 

The Basin of Minas. 

The steamer WiUiam Strcud leaves Parrsboro" several times weekly, for the vil- 
lages on the > . and E. shores of the Ba^in of Minas. As the times of her departure 
are very irregular, owing to the necessity of following the tide , and her landings vary 
according to circimistances, the foiiowing account relates to the line of the coast 
rather tnan to her i^ate. She is announced to call at Parrsboro", Londonderry, 
ilaitland, Kingsport, Summerville, and Windsor. 

Soon after leaving Parrsboro', Frazers Head is passed on the 1., with 
its chffs elevated nearlv 400 feet above the water. About 15 31. E. of 



EASIX OF MIXAS. Route 21. 105 

Parrsboro' are the remarkable insulated peaks of the *Five Islands, the 
chief of which is 350 ft. high, rising from the -waters of the Basin. On the 
adjacent shore is the village of Five Islands, occupying a very picturesque 
position, and containing 600 inhabitants. In this vicinity are found iron, 
copper, and plumbago, and wliite-lead is extracted in considerable quan- 
tities from minerals mined among the hills. Marble was formerly produced 
here, but the quarries are now abandoned. The massive ridge variously 
known as Mt. Gerrish, St. Peters Mt., and Red Head, looms over the vil- 
lage to a height of 500 ft., having a singularly bold and alpine character 
for so small an elevation. On its lower slopes are found pockets containing 
fine barytes, of which large quantities are sent to the United States. A 
mass of over 150 pounds' weight was sent from this place to the Paris Ex- 
position of 1867. A few miles W. of the village are the falls on the North 
River, which are 90 ft. high ; and to the N. is the wild and picturesque 
scenery of the Cobequid Mts. Five Islands may be visited by the road 
from Parrsboro' (16-18 M.), which also passes near the Xorth River Falls. 
The mDst direct route to the ^-illage is by the mail-stage from Debert station, 
on the Intercolonial Railway (see page 80). 

" Before them lay the outlines of Fire Islands, rising beautifully out of the water 

between them and the mainland The two more distant were rounded and 

well wooded ; the third, which was midway among the group, had lofty, precipitous 
sides, and the summit was dome-shaped; the fourth was like a table, rising with 
perpendicular sides to the height of 200 ft., with a flat, level surface aboTC, which 
was all overgrown with forest trees. The last, and ne;irest of the group, was by far 
the most singular. It was a bare rock which rose irregularly from the sea, termi- 
nating at one end in a peak which rose about 200 ft. in the air It resembled, 

more than anything else, a vast cathedral rising out of the sea, the chief mass of the 
rock corresponding with the main part of the cathedral, while the tower and spire 
were there in all their majesty. For this cause the rock has received the name of 

Pinnacle Island At its base they saw the white foam of breaking surf: while 

far on high around its lofty, tempest-beaten summit, they saw myriads of sea-gulls. 
Gathering in great white clouds about this place, they sported and chased one an- 
other ; they screamed and uttered their shrill yells, which sounded afar over the 
sea." (DeJIclle.) 

10 M. beyond these islands the steamer passes the lofty and far-pi'oject- 
ing peninsula oi Economy'^ Point, and enters the Cobequid Bay (which 
ascends to Truro, a distance of 36 M.). After touching at Londonderry, 
on the N. shore, the steamer crosses the bay to Maitlcnid (two inns), a 
busy and prosperous shipbuilding village at the mouth of the Shubenacadie 
River (see page 82). 

The S. shore of the Basin of Minas is lined with bluffs 100-180 ft. high, 
but is far less imposing than the N. shore. Noel is about 15 il. W. of 
Maitland, and is situated on a pretty little bay between Noel Head and 
Burnt-Coat Head. It has 300 inhabitants, and produces the mineral called 
terra alba, used in bleaching cottons. It is not found elsewhere in Amer- 
ica. After leaving Noel Bay and passing the lighthouse on Burnt-Coat 

1 Economy is dei-ired from the Indian name Kenomee, which was applied to the same 
place, and means " Sandy Point." 

5 * 



106 Route 21. BASIN OF MINA3. 

Head, the trend of the coast is followed to the S. W. for about 20 !M. to 
Walt07i, a vilhige of 600 inhabitants, at the mouth of the La Tete River. 
;Manv thousand tons of gypsum and plaster of Paris (calcined gypsum) are 
annually shipped from this port to the United States. Immense quantities 
ai*e exported also from the coasts of Chivirie, which extend from Walton 
S. W. to the mouth of the Avon Eiver. The whole back countr}' is com- 
posed of limestone soil and gypsum-beds, whose mining and shipment 
form an industry of increasing importance. Beyond the Chivirie coast the 
steamer ascends the Avon River to Windsor. 

The Basin of Minas was the favorite home of Glooscap, the Hiawatha of the Mic- 
macs, ■\yhofo traditions describe him as an envoy from the Great Spirit, who had the 
form and habits of humanity, but was exalted above all peril and sickness and death. 
He dwelt apart and above, in a great wigwam, and was attended by an old woman 
and a beautiful youth, and " was never verj- far from anj' one of them," who re- 
ceived his counsels. His power was unbounded and supernatural, and was wielded 
against the enchantments of the magicians, while his wisdom taught the Indians 
how to hunt and fish, to heal diseases, and to build wigwams and canoes. He 
named the constellations in the heavens, and many of the chief points on the Acadian 
shores. The Basin of Minas was his beaver-pond ; Cape Split was the bulwark of 
the dam ; and Spencer's Island is his overturned kettle. He controlled the ele- 
ments, and by his magic wand led the caribou and the bear to his throne. The 
allied powers of evil advanced with immense hosts to overthrow his great wigwam 
and break his power ; but he extinguished their camp-fires by night and summoned 
the spirits of the frost, by whose endeavors the land was visited by an intense cold, 
and the hostile armies were frozen in the forest. On the approach of the English he 
turned his huge hunting-dogs into stone and then passed away ; but will return 
again, right Spencer's Island, call the dogs to life, and once more dispense his royal 
hospitality on the Minas shores. 

" Now the ways of beasts and men waxed evil, and they greatly vexed Glooscap, 
and at length he could no longer endure them ; and he made arich feast by the 
shore of the great lake (Minasl All the beasts came to it ; and Avhen the feast was 
over, he got into a big canoe, he and his uncle, the Great Turtle, and they went 
away over the big lake, and the beasts looked after them till they saw them no 
more. And after they ceased to see them, they still heard their voices as they sang, 
but the sounds grew tainter and fainter in the distance, and at last they wholly died 
away ; and then deep silence fell on them all, and a great marvel came to pass, 
and the beasts who had till now spoken but one language no longer were able to 
understand each other, and they all fled away, each his own way, and never again 
have they met together in council. Until the day when Glooscap shall return to 
restore the Golden Age, and make men and animals dwell once more together in 
amity and peace, all Nature mourns. The tradition states that on his departure 
from Acadia the great snowy owl retired to the deep forests to return no more until 
he could come to welcome Glooscap ; and in those sylvan depths tlie owls, even yet, 
repeat to the night, ' Koo koo skoos I Koo koo skoos I ' which is to say, in the In- 
dian tongue, ' 0, I am sorry I 0, I am sorry ! ■ And the loons, who had been the 
huntsmen of Glooscap, go restlessly up and down through the world, seeking vainly 
for their master, whom they cannot find, and wailing sadly because they find him 
not." 



l*il«S'f*^ 



1 




THE BlSrV OF MINAS 



THE OLD ACADIAN LAND 



mmmm 









..\yi^^ 



of j^ rXj^/- 




THE LAND OF EVANGELINE. Route 22. 107 

22. The Land of Evangeline. 

This beautiful and deeply interesting district is visited with the greatest 
ease from the academic town of Wolfville ( Village Hotel; Acadia Hotel), 
which is 127 M. from St. John and 63 M. from Halifax (by Route 18). 
This quiet settlement is situated on the Cornwallis River, and is engaged 
in shipbuilding and farming. It has 800 inhabitants, four churches, a 
ladies' seminary, and the Hoi'ton Academy (4 teachers, 60 students). 
The Acadia College is a Baptist institution, with 5 professors, 40 students, 
and 150 alumni (in 18 years of existence). The college buildings occupy 
a fine situation on a hill which overlooks " those meadows on the Basin of 
Mioas which Mr. Longfellow has made more sadly poetical than any other 
spot on the Western Continent." The * view from the belfry of the college 
is the most beautiful in this vicinity, or even, perhaps, in the Maritime 
Provinces. Far across the Cornwallis Valley to the N. is the North Mt., 
which terminates, 15 M. away (21 M. by road), in the majestic bluff of Cape 
Blomidon, di-opping into the Basin of Minas, whose bright Avaters occupy 
a broad section of the field of vision. (See Route 21, for Cape Blomidon 
and the Indian traditions of the Basin of Minas.) To the N. E. is the 
"great meadow" Avhich gave name and site to the village of Grand Prd. . 

A good road leads E. (ha 3 M.) from Wolfville to Lower Horton, a scat- 
tered hamlet among the hills. By passing down from this point to the 
meadows just beyond the railway-station .of Grand Pre, the traveller 
reaches the site of the ancient village. Standing on the platform of the 
station, he sees a large tree at the comer of the field on the left front. 
Near that point are the faint remains of the foundations of the Acadian 
church. The tradition of the country-side claims that the aged willow- 
tree near by grows on the site of the shop of Basil the Blacksmith, and 
that cinders have been dug up at its foot. The destruction effected by 
the British troops was complete, and there are now no relics of the an- 
cient settlement, except the gnarled and knotty trees of the orchards, the 
lines of willows along the old roads, and the sunken hollows which indi- 
cate the sites of former cellars. Near the shore is shown the place where 
the exiles were put on shipboard. A road leads across the rich diked 
marsh in 2-3 M. to Long Island, a slight elevation fronting on the Basin 
of Minas, and on which dwells a farming population of about 120 persons. 
To the N. E. is the mouth of the Gaspereaux River, and on the W. the 
Cornwallis River is discharged. The early Acadians reclaimed these rich 
meadows from the sweep of the tides by building light dikes to turn the 
water. There were 2,100 acres of this gained land in their Grand Pre, 
but the successive advancing of other lines of aggression has driven back 
the sea from a much larger area, all of which is very productive and val- 
uable. In 1810 the broad meadow between Grand Pr6 and Wolfville was 
enclosed by new dikes and added to the reclaimed domain. 



102 lioutcCl. CAPE BLOMIDON. 

open on the 1., bounded by the Horton hills nnd the dark line of the North 
Mt. In advance is the bold and clear-out outline of Cape Blomidon, 
brooding; over the Avater, and on the r. are the low but -vvell-defined blutl's 
of Chiriric, rich in gypsum and limestone. It is about 22 ^l. from the 
mouth of the Avon to Parrsboro', and the course of the steamer continu- 
ally approaches Blomidon. 

Cape Blomidon is a vast precipice of nnl ?aiul!>toiio of the Triassic era, with 
gtvouii- marks of volcauic action. " The dark Vasaltio wall, covorod with thick 
voods, the terrace of aiuyirdaloid. with a luxuriant growth of light-given shrubs 
and yoviug trees that rapidly spring up on its rich and moist surf;ice. the precipice 
of bright red sandstone, always clean and fivsh, and contrasting strongly with the 
trap above, .... constitute a combination of forms and colors equally striking, if 
seen in the distance from the hills of lloiion or Parrsboro", or more nearly from 
the sea or the stony beach at its base. 1 lomidon is a scene never to be foi-gotteu by 
a traveller who has waudeiwl a'ouud its shores or ckunVered on its giddy preci- 
pices."' The cape is about oTO ft. high, and pirsents an interesting sight when its 
dark-ivtl summit is pctning above the white sea-fogs. Sir William Lyell, the emi- 
nent British geologist, made a careful study of the phenomena of this vicinity. 

The Indian legend says that BKniidouVas made by the divine Olooscap, -who 
Invke the great beavcr-dam olf this ^hol•o and swung its end around iuto its present 
position. Afterwards he crossed to the nev -made cape and strewed its slopes with 
the gems that are found there lo-day, cari-ying tl.cnce a set of rare ornaments for 
his imcient and mysterious female companion. The ber.cficent chief broke away the 
beaver-daui because it was flooding all the Conn ^ 'is Valley, and in his conflict with 
tlie Great Beaver he threw at him huge massc^ of rock and earth, which are the 
present Five Islands. W. of rtkogmtr/ifech (Blomidon) the cud of the dam swept 
around and lKX\inie Fltcsun (Cape Split). 

As Blomidon is left on the port beam, the steamer hurries across the 
rapid currents of the outlet of the Basin. In front is seen the white vil- 
lage of Parrsboro', backed by the dai-k undulations of the Cobequid ^Its. 
Just befoi-e reaching Parrsboro' the vessel approaches and passes Far- 
indpe Islam^ (on the 1.), a singular insulated hill 250 ft. high, and con- 
nected with the mainland at low tide by a narrow beach. 

Partridge Island was the Piiloiccch Miiiics:ofl of the Micmacs, and wjis a favoi-ite 
location for legends of Glooscap. On his last great journey from Newfoundland by 
Pictou through -Acadia and into the unknown West, he linilt a grand road from 
Fort Cumberland to this shore for the use of his weary companions. This mii-acu- 
lously t\>rmed ridge is now occupied by the post-rtvtd to the >.". W., and is called by 
the Indians Oicwok-i/n (^the causeway). At Partridge Island C.looscap had his cel- 
ebrated ivvel with the sujun-natural Kit-poos-e-^\g-unow, the dehvei-er of all op- 
pressed, who was taken out alive from his mother (slain by a giants, was* thrown 
iuto a well, and, being miraculouslv preserved there, came forth in due time to fulfil 
his high duty to ment These marvellous friends went out on the Basin in a stone 
canoe to fish by torchlight, and, after cruising over the dark watci-s for some time, 
spearoii a monstrous whale. They tossed him iuto the canoe " as though he were a 
tixnit,"' atid made for the shore, where, in tJieir brotherly feast, the whale was en- 
tirely devoured. 

Parrsboro' (tAvo iims) is prettily situated at the month of a small river, 
and under the shelter of Partridge Island. It has about 900 inhabitants, 
with three churches, and is engaged in the lumber-trade. The beauty of 
the situation and the views, together with the sporting facilities in the 
back-country, have made Parrsboro' a pleasure resort of considerable re- 
pute, and the neat hotel called the Summer House is well patronized. This 
is one of the best points from which to enter tlio fine hunting and iishing 



PARRSBORO'. Route 21. 103 

districts of Cumberland County, and guides and outfits may be secured 
here. Amherst (see page 78) is 36 M. distant, by highways following the 
valleys of the Parrsboro' and Maccau Rivers. 

" Parrsboro' enjoys more than its share of broad, gravelly beach, overhung with 
cliftcd and woody bluffs. One fresh froai the dead walls of a great city would be de- 
hghted with the sylvan shores of Parrsboro'. The beach, with all its breadth, a 
miracle of pebbly beauty, slants steeply to the surf, which is now roUing up in curl- 
ing clouds of green and white. Here we turn westward into the great bay itself 
going with a tide that rushes like a mighty river toward a cataract, whirling, boil- 
ing, breaking in half-moons of crispy foam." (L. L. Noble.) 

" Pleasant Parrsboro', with its green hills, neat cottages, and sloping shores laved 
by the sea when the tide is full, but wearing quite a difterent aspect when the tide 
goes out ; for then it is left perched thirty feet liigh upon a red clay bluff, and the 
fishing-boats which were afloat before are careened upon their beam ends, high and 
dry out of water. The long massive pier at which the steamboat lately landed, 
lifts up its naked bulk of tree-nailed logs, reeking with green ooze and sea-weed ; and 
a high conical island which constitutes the chief feature of the landscape is trans- 
formed into a bold promontory, connected with the mainland by a huge ridge of 
brick-red clay." (H.vllock.) 

Gentlemen who are interested in geological studies will have a rare chance to make 
collections about Parrsboro' and the shores of Minas. The most favorable time is 
when the bluffs have been cracked and scaled by recent frosts ; or just after the close 
of the winter, when much fresh debris is found at the foot of the cliffs. Among the 
minerals on Partridge Island are: analcime, apophyllite, amethyst, agate, apatite, 
calcitc (abundant, in yellow crystals), chabazite, chalcedony, cat's-eye, gypsum, 
hematite, heulandite, magnetite, stilbite (very abundant), jasper, cacholong, opal, 
semi-opal, and gold-bearing quartz. About Cape Blomidon are found analcime, 
agate, amethyst, apophyllite. calcite, chalcedony, chabazite-gmelinite, faroelite, 
hematite, magnetite, heulandite, l:iumonite, fibrous gypsum, malachite, mesolite, 
native copper, natrolite, stilbite, psilomelane, and quartz. Obsidian, malachite, gold, 
and copper are found at Cape d'Or ; jasper and fine quartz crystals, on Spencer's 
Island ; augite, amianthus, pyrites, and wad, at Parrsboro' ; and both at Five Islands 
and Scotsman's Bay there are beautiful specimens of moss agate. At Cornwallis 
is found the rare mineral called Wichtisite (resembling obsidian, in gray and deep 
blue colors), which is only known in one other place on earth, at Wichtis, in Fin- 
land. The purple and violet quartz, or amethyst, of the Minas shores, is of great 
beauty and value. A Blomidon amethyst is in the crown of France, and it is now 
270 years since the Sieur de Monts carried several large amethysts from Partridge 
Island to Henri IV. of France. These gems are generally found in geodes, or after 
fresh falls of trap-rock. 

Advocate. Harbor and Cape d' Or. 

A bi-weekly stage runs W. from Parrsboro' through grand coast scenery, 
for 28 M., passing the hamlets of Fox Harbor and Port Greville, and stop- 
ping at Advocate Harbor. This is a sequestered marine hamlet, devoted 
to shipbuilding and the deep-sea fisheries, and has about 600 inhabitants. 
It is about 60 M. from Amherst, by a road leading across the Cobequid 
Mts. and through Apple River (see page 80). Some of the finest marine 
scenery in the Provinces is in tliis vicinity. 3-4 M. S. is the immense 
rocky peninsula of * Cape d'Or, almost cut off from the mainland by a deep 
ravine, in whose bottom the salt tides flow. Cape d'Or is 500 ft. high, and 
has recently become noted for its rich copper deposits. Off this point there 
is a heavy rip on the flood-tide, which flows with a velocity of 6 knots an 
hour, and rises 33-39 ft. 8 M. W. of Advocate Harbor, and visible across 



110 RoidefS. GKAXD PER 

Sdenmly down the street came the parish priest, ard the children 
Paused, in their play to kiss the hand he. extended to bless them. 
Rererend "walked he among them : and up rose matrons and maidens, 
Hailing his slow approach Vith vorvis of affectionate Trelcome. 
Then came the lalwrers home from the field, and serenely the sun sank 
Down to his rest, and r«ilight preyaiied. Anon from the tjelfry 
SofUy the Angeltis sounded, an 1 CTcr the rocfe of the Tillage 
Columns of pale blue smoke, like clouds of incense ascending. 
Rose from a hundre-l hearths, the homes of peace and contentment. 
Thus dwelt tc^ther in love these simple Acadian farmers, — 
Dwelt in the love of Go<d and of man. Alike were they free from 
Fear, that reigns wiih the tyrant, and envy, the vice of republics. 
Neither locks had they to their doers, nor bars to their windows ; 
But their dwellings were open as day and the hearts of the owners ; 
There the richest was poor, and the poorest lired in abtmdance." 

The poet then describes " the gentle Evangeline, the pride of the vil- 
lage." 

" Fair was she to behold, that maiden of seventeen stunmers, 
Black were her eyes as the b'erry that grows on the thorn by the wayside, 
Black, yet how softly they gleamed beneath the brown shade of her tresses ! 
Sweet was her breath as the breath of kine that fee^i in the meadows. 
"When in the harvest heat she bore to the reaj-ers at noontide 
Flasons of home-brewcl ale, ah I feir in sooth was the maiden. 
Fairer was she when, on Sunday mom. while the bell from its turret 
Sprinkled with holy sounds the air. as the priest with his hyssop 
Sprinkles the congregation, and scatters blessings upon them. 
Down the long street she passel. with her chaplet of beads and her missal, 
Wearing her Norman cap, and her kirtle of blue, and the ear-rings, — 
Brought in the olden time from France, and since, as an heirloom, 
Handed down from mother to child, through long generations. 
But a celestial brightness — a more ethereal beauty — 
Shone on her fice and encircled her form, when, ailer confession, 
Homeward serenely she walke-i, with God"s b>enediction upon her. 
When she had passed, it seemed like the ceasing of exqtiisite music.'' 

After a beautiful description of the peaceful social life of the Acadian.^, 

and the betrothal of Evangeline, the poet teUs of the arrival of the English 

fleet, the convocation of the people, the roval mandate, the destruction of 

Grand Pre. and the weary exUe of the villagers. 

" So passed the morning away. And lo I with a stimmons sonorotis 
Sounded the bell from its tower, and over the meadow a drum beat. 
Thronzed erelong was the chureh with men. Without, in the churchyard, 
Waited the women. They stood by the graves, and hung on the headstones 
Garlands of autumn-leaves and evergreens fresh from the forest. 
Then c^me the guar<I from the ships, and marching proudly among them 
Entered the sacred portal. With loud and dissonant clangor 
Echoed the sotmd of their brazen drums from ceiling and casement, — 
Echoed a moment only, and slowly the ponderous portal 
Close<i, and in silence the crowd aw3ite<i the will of the soldiers. 
Then uprose their commander, and sp>ake fi^m the steps of the altar. 
Holding aloft in his hands, with its seals, the royal commission. 
' Ye are convened this day," he said. ' by his ^lajesty"s orders. 
Clement and kind has he been : but how have you answered his kindnesa, 
Let your own hearts reply : To my natural make and my temper 
Painful the task is I do. which to you I know must be grievous. 
Yet must I bow and oL>ey, and deliver the will of our monarch ; 
Namely, that all your lands, and dwellings, and cattle of aU kinds 
Forfeited be to the crown ; and that you jourselves from this province 
Be transporte<i to other lands. God grant you may dwell there 
Ever as fidthfol subjects, a happy and peaceable people ! 
Prisoners now I declare you ; for such is his 3Iajesty"s pleasure.' 



GRAXD PRE. RouU22. Ill 

There disorder prevailed, and the tumult and stir of embarking. 

Busily plied the freighted boats : and in the confusion 

Wives were torn from their husbands, and mothers, too late, saw their children 

Left on the land, extending their arms, with wildest entreaties. 

Suddenly rose from the south a light, as in autumn the blood-red 

Moon climbs the crystal walls of heaven, and o'er the horizon 

Titan-like stretches its hundred hands upon mountain and meadow, 

Seizing the rocks and the rivers, and piling huge shadows together. 

Broader and ever broader it gleamed on the roofs of the village, 

Gleamed on the sky and the sea, and the ships that lay in the roadstead. 

Columns of shining smoke uprose, and flashes of flame were 

Thrust through their folds and withdrawn, like the quivering hands of a martyr. 

Then as the wind seized the gleeds and the burning thatch, and uphfting, 

Whirled them aloft through the air, at once from a hundred house-tops 

Started the sheeted smoke, with flashes of flame intermingled. 

Many a weary year had passed since the burning of Grand Pr^, 

When on the falling tide the freighted vessels departed. 

Bearing a nation, with all its household gods, into exile, 

Exile without an end, and without an example in story. 

Far asunder, on separate coasts, the Acadiaus landed ; 

Scattered were they, like flakes of snow, when the wind from the northeast 

Strikes aslant through the fogs that darken the Banks of Newfoundland. 

Friendless, homeless, hopeless, they wandered from city to city. 

From the cold lakes of the North to sultry Southern savannas,' — 

From the bleak shores of the sea to the lands where the Father of Waters 

Seizes the hills in his hands, and drags them down to the ocean. 

Deep in their sands to bury the scattered bones of the mammoth. 

Friends they sought and homes ; and many, despairing, heart-broken, 

Asked of the earth but a grave, and no longer a friend or a fireside. 

Written their history stands on tablets of stone in the churchyards." 

LoKGFELLOw's Evangeliiie. 

" Much as we may admire the various bays and lakes, the inlets, promontories, 
and straits, the mountains and woodlands of this rarely visited corner of creation, — 
and, compared with it, we can boast of no coast scenery so beautiful, — the valley of 
Grand Pre transcends all the rest in the Province. Only our valley of Wyoming, 
as an inland picture, may match it, both in beauty and tradition. One had'its Ger- 
trude, the other its Evangeline." (Cozzens.) 

" Beyond is a lofty and extended chain of hills, presenting a vast chasm, appar- 
ently burst out by the waters of 19 rivers that empty iato the Basin of Minas, and here 
escape into the Bay of Fundy. The varietj- and extent of this pi-cspect, the beauti- 
ful verdant vale of the Gaspereaux ; the extended township of Horton interspersed 
with groves of wood and cultured fields, and the cloud-capped summit of the lofty 
cape that terminates the chain of the North Mt.,form an assemblage of objects 
rarely united with so striking an effe.ct." 

" It would be difficult to point out another landscape at all equal to that which is 
beheld from the hill that overlooks the site of the ancient village of Minas. On 
either hand extend undulating hills richly cultivated, and intermingled with farm- 
houses and orchards. From the base of these highlands extend the alluvial mead- 
ows which add so much to the appearance and wealth of Horton. The Grand 
Prairie is skirted by Boot and Long Islands, whose fertile and well-tilled fields are 
sheltered from the north by evergreen forests of dark foUage. Beyond are the wide 
expanse of waters of the Basin of Minas, the lower part of Cornwallis, and the isles 
and blue highlands of the opposite shores. The charm of this prospect consists in 
the unusual combination of hill, dale, woods, and cultivated fields ; in the calm 
beauty of agricultural scenery ; and in the romantic wildness of the distant forests. 
During the summer and autumnal months immense herds of cattle are seen quietly 
cropping the herbage of the Grand Prairie ; while numerous vessels plying on the 
Basin convey a pleasing evidence of the prosperity and resources of this fertile dis- 
trict." (H.A.LIBURTON.) 



112 Route 23. ST. MARY'S BAY. 



23. Annapolis Eoyal to Clare and Yarmouth. — The Tus- 
ket Lakes. 

From St. John or Halifax to Annapolis Royal, see Route 18. 

The Western- Counties Railway was begun in September, 1874, and is to be finished 
from Yarmouth to Meteghau (30 M.) by the summer of 1875. It will not reach An- 
napolis before the latter part of the year 1S76. 

The Roval mail-stage leaves AnnapoUs daily on arrival of the morning train from 
Hahfax, and runs S. W. to Clementsport and Digby (distance, 20^ M. ; fare, § 1.50). 
A pleasanter route is to go from Annapohs to Digby by the steamboat (7oc. ; see 
page 85), which makes four trips weekly. On boat-days the stage leaves Digby for 
Yarmouth about one hour after her arrival ; on other days it leaves at 6 P. M. Digby 
to Yarmouth, 70 M. : fare, S 4. 

Itiiierarv. — Annapolis Royal; Clementsport, Si M. : Tictoria Bridge, 13^; 
Smith's Cove, 16; Digby, 20=V : St. Mary's Bay, 27^ f Weymouth Road 32 ; Wey- 
mouth Bridge, 38 ; Belliveau Cove, 43 ; Clare, 50; Meteghan Cove, 59; Cheticamp, 
63 ; Bear River, 74 ; Yarmouth Lakes, 81 ; Yarmouth, 90. 

The traveller will fee from the tin.e-table that this is a night-journey, and the return 
from Yarmouth to Digby is also effected by night. The ensuing descriptions, there- 
fore, will be useful only to such as stop off at some of the roadside villages, or make 
the journey in their own carriages, by daylight. 

Annapolis Royal to Digby, see pages £4, S5 (reversed). 

On leaving Digby the stage follows the highway to the S. W., traversing 
the farming settlement of 3IarshaUtoicn, and crosses the isthmus between 
the Annapolis Basin and St. Mary's Bay, a distance of about 7 M. Thence- 
forward, for over 30 M., the highway lies near the beautiful * St. Mary's 
Bay, which is about 35 M. long, with a width of from 3 to 10 M. On the 
opposite shore are the highlands of Digby Neck (see Route 24), a continu- 
ation of the North Mt. range. On this shore a wide belt of level land has 
been left between the receding range of the South Mt. (or Blue Mts.) and 
the bay, and the water-front is occupied by numerous farms. 

In St. Mary's Bay the fleet of the Sieur de IMonts lay for two weeks, in 1604, while 
the shores were being explored by boat's-crcws. The mariners were greatly rejoiced 
in finding what they supposed to be valuable deposits of iron and silver. The 
Parisian priest Aubry was lost on one of these excursions, and roamed through the 
woods for 16 days, eating nothing but berries, until another vessel took him off. 
The name Baie de Ste. Marie was given by Champlain. 

Briglito7i is at the head of the bay, and is a pleasant agricultural village 
with a small inn. The hamlets of Barton {ov Specht's Gove) and GilberVs 
Cove are soon passed, and the stage enters the pretty village of Weymouth 
(two inns), a seaport which builds some handsome vessels, and has a snug 
little trade with the United States and the "West Indies. It is at the mouth 
of the Sissiboo River, on whose opposite shore is the Acadian hamlet of 
New Edinburgh. Across St. Mary's Bay is the maritime village of Sandy 
Cove. 

The stage now ascends the r. bank of the Sissiboo River to Weymouth 
Bridge (Jones's Hotel), a maritime village of about the same size as Wey- 
mouth. It is 4 M. from the mouth of the river; and 2-3 M. to the E. 
are the Sissiboo Falls. The shore of St. i\Iary's Bay is regained at Belli- 
veau Cove (small inn), an Acadian hamlet chiefly devoted to agriculture 



i. 



CLAEE. Route 23. 113 

and shipbuilding. From this point down to Beaver Eiver, and beyond 
through the Tusket and Pubnico regions, the shore is occupied by a range 
of hamlets which are inhabited by the descendants of the old Acadian- 
French. 

The Clare Settlements were founded about 1763 by the descendants of the 
Acadians who had been exiled to New England. After the conquest of Canada these 
unfortunate wanderers were suffered to return to Nova Scotia, but they found their 
former domains about the Basin of Minas already occupied by the New-Englanders. 
So they removed to the less fertile but still pleasant shores of Clare, and founded new 
homes, alternating their farm labors with fishing-voyages on St. Mary's Bay or the 
outer sea. This little commonwealth of 4 - 5,000 people was for many years governed 
and directed by "the amiable and venerated Abbe Segoigne,"a patrician priest who 
had fled from France during the Revolution of 1793. His power and influence were 
unlimited, and were exerted only for the peace and well-being of his people. Under 
this benign guidance the colony flourished amain ; new hamlets arose along the 
shores of the beautiful bay ; and an Acadian village was founded in the oak -groves 
of Tusket. M. Segoigne also conciliated the Micmacs, learned their language, and 
was highly venerated by all their tribe. 

" When the traveller enters Clare, the houses, the household utensils, the foreign 
language, and the uniform costume of the inhabitants excite his surprise ; because 
no parish of Nova Scotia has such a distinctive character. The Acadians are far 
behind their neighbors in modes of agriculture : they show a great reluctance to 
enter the forest, and in place of advancing upon the highlands, they subdivide their 
lands along the shore and keep their children about them. They preserve their 
language and customs with a singular tenacity, and though commerce places them 
in constant communication with the English, they never contract marriage with 
them, nor adopt their manners, nor dwell in their villages. This conduct is not due 
to dislike of the English government ; it must be attributed rather to ancient usage, 
to the national character, and to their systems of education. But if they are infe- 
rior to the English colonists in the arts which strengthen and extend the influence 
of society, they can proudly challenge comparison in their social and domestic vir- 
tues. Without ambition, living with frugality, they regulate their life according to 
their means; devoted to their ancient worship, they are not divided by rehgious 
discord ; in fine, contented with their lot and moral in their habits of life, they en- 
joy perhaps as much of happiness and goodness as is possible in the frailty of human 
nature." (Haliburton.) 

*' Still stands the forest primeval ; but under the shade of its branches 
Dwells another race, with other customs and language. 
Only along the shore of the mournful and misty Atlantic 
Linger a few Acadian peasants, whose fathers from exile 
Wandered back to their native laud to die in its bosom. 
In the fisherman's cot the wheel and the loom are still busy ; 
Maidens still wear their Norman caps and their kirtles of homespun, 
And by the evening fire repeat Evangeline's story, 
While from its rocky caverns the deep-voiced neighboring ocean 
Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of the forest." 

Longfellow's Evangeline. 

The road runs S. W. from Belliveau Cove to Grosses Coques (300 inhabi- 
tants) and Port Acadie, Clare, and Saulnierville, a line of hamlets whose 
inhabitants ai-e engaged in farming and the fisheries. A road runs 7 M. 
E. to New Tusket, an Anglo-Acadian village in the interior, near the 
island-studded Lake Wentworth. Meteghan (German's Hotel) is a bay- 
side village of 500 inhabitants, nearly all of whom are Acadians and farm- 
ers. It is thought that the Western-Counties Eailway will be completed 
from Yarmouth to this point by the summer of 1875. Meteghan is the 
last vUlage on St. Mary's Bay, and the road now turns to the S. and passes 

H 



114 Route 23. YAKMOUTH. 

the inland hamlet of Cheticamp. Cape Cove is an Acadian settlement, 
and is finely situated on a headland which faces the Atlantic. The stage 
next passes Salmon River (small inn), and descends thence (by Brookville) 
to Beaver River (inn), the first English settlement. It is a village of 400 
inliabitants on the Atlantic coast, near the pi-omontory of High Head. 
The road now leaves the vicinity of the sea and strikes inland through a 
region of forests and lakes ; reaching Yarmouth about 13 M. S. of Beaver 
Eiver. 

Yarmouth. {United States Hotel, $6-8 a week; American Hotel) is a 
wealthy and prosperous seaport on the S. W, coast of Nova Scotia, and 
is situated on a narrow harbor 3 M. from the Atlantic. It has 5,335 in- 
habitants, with 9 churches, 2 banks, 4 local marine-insurance companies, 
and 2 weekly newspapers. It has a public library and a small museum 
of natural history. The schools are said to be the best in the Province, 
and occupy conspicuous buildings on the ridge back of the town. The 
Court-House is in the upper part of the town; near which is the spacious 
Baptist church, built in Novanglian architecture. The Episcopal church 
is a new building, and is one of the best in Nova Scotia. 1 M. out is a 
rural cemetery of 40 acres. Yarmouth is built along a line of low rocky 
heights, over a harbor which is nearly drained at low tide. It receives a 
goodly number of smumer visitors, most of whom pass into the Tusket 
Lakes or along the coast to the E., in search of sport. 

Yarmouth has been called the most American of all the Provincial towns, and is 
endowed with the energy and pertinacit}- of New England. Though occupjing a 
remote situation on an indifferent harbor, with a barren and incapable back coun- 
trj-, this town has risen to opulence and distinction by the indomitable industry of 
its citizens. In 1761 the shipping of the country was confined to one 25-ton fishing- 
boat ; in 1869 it amounted to 284 vessels, measuring 98,896 tons, and is now far in 
advance even of that figure. It is claimed that Yarmouth, for her population, is 
the largest ship-owning port in the world. In addition to these great commercial 
fleets, the town has estabUshed a steamship-line to St. John and Boston, and is 
building, almost alone, the Western-Counties Railway to Annapolis. It is expected 
that great benefit will accrue from the timber-districts which will be opened by this 
new line of travel. " Yarmouth's financial success is due largely to the practical 
judgment and sagacity of her mariners. She has reared an army of shipmasters of 
whom any country might be proud," and it is claimed that a large proportion of 
the Cape-Ann fishing-captains are natives of this country. On the adjacent coast, 
and within 12 M. of Yarmouth, are the marine hamlets of Jegoggin, Sandford 
(Cranberry Head), Arcadia, Hebron, Hartford, Kelley's Cove, Jebogue, Darhng's 
Lake (Short Beach), and Deerfield. These settlements have over 6,000 inhabitants 
in the aggregate. The coast was occupied by the French during the 17th century, 
but was" afterwards abandoned. About the middle of the last century these de- 
serted shores were taken possession of by colonies of fishermen from Massachusetts 
and Connecticut, who wished to be nearer then- fishing-grounds ; and the present 
population is descended from these hai-dy men and the Loyalists of 1783. The an- 
cient Indian name of Yarmouth was Keespoogicitk, which means '"' Land's End." 

The steamship Linda leaves Yarmouth for Boston every Saturday, and for St. 
John, N. B., every Thursday. 



TUSKET LAKES. Route 23. 115 

Tlie TusJcet Lakes and ArchiiJelago. 

The township of Yarmouth contams 80 lakes, and to a bird flying overhead it 
must seem like a patchwork of blue and green, in which the blue predominates. 
They are nearly all connected with the Tusket River, and are generally small, very 
iiTegular, and surrounded by young forests. They rarely attain the width of 1 M., 
and are strung along the course of the river and its tributaries, joined by narrow 
aisles of water, and breaking off into bays which the unguided voyager would often 
ascend in mistake for the main channel. In the lower lakes, where the tide flows, 
near Argyle Bay, are profitable eel-fisheries. The remoter waters, towards the Blue 
Mts., afford good trout-fishing. 

The westerly line of lakes are visited from Yarmouth by riding 5 M. out 
on the Digby road and then turning off to Deerjield, near the Salmon-Eiver 
Lakes, or passing over to the settlement at Lake George (12-14 M. from 
Yarmouth), which is 1^ M. wide and 3-4 M. long, and is the largest lake in 
the township. A little farther N. is the Acadian settlement at Cedar Lake. 

The best route for the sportsman is to follow the Barrington telegraph- 
road 10 M. N. E. to Tusket (two inns), a large and prosperous shipbuild- 
ing village, with three churches, near the head of ship-navigation on the 
Tusket Eiver. The scenery in this vicinity is picturesque, its chief feature 
being the many gi-een islands off the shores ; and the river has been famous 
for fisheries of salmon and gaspereaux, now impaired by the lumber-mills 
above. From this point a chain of lakes ascends to the N. for 20 M., in- 
cluding the central group of the Tuskets, and terminating at the island- 
strewn Lake Wentworth. The best place is found by following the road 
which runs N. E. 15-18 M., between Vaughan Lake and Butler's Lake, 
and by many lesser ponds, to the remote settlement of Kempt (small hotel), 
near the head-waters of the central and western groups. To the N. and E. 
of this point are the trackless forests and savage ridges of the Blue Mts., 
and the hunter can traverse these wilds for 40 M. to the N. E. (to the Liv- 
erpool Lakes), or for 30 M. to the S. E. (to the Shelburne settlements), 
without meeting any permanent evidences of civilization. 

The ancient Indian tradition tells that squirrels were once very numerous in this 
region, and grew to an enormous size, endangering the lives of men. But the Great 
Spirit once appeared to a blameless patriarch of the Micmacs, and offered to reward 
his virtue by granting his utmost desire. After long meditation the chief asked the 
Divine Visitor to bless the land by taking the power from the mighty squirrels, upon 
which the mandate was issued and the dreaded animals shrank to their present in- 
significant size. And hence it is known that ever since that day the squirrel has 
been querulous at the sight of man. 

This great forest was formerly the paradise of moose-hunters, but is now closed 
to that sport by the recent Provincial law which forbids the killing of moose for the 
next tliree years. Poaching is, of course, quite possible, since the forest cannot be 
studded with game-keepers ; but men of culture and foresight will doubtless approve 
the action of the government, and will abstain from illegally pursuing this noble 
game, which must become extinct in a very few years unless carefully protected. 



S. of Tusket village are the beautiful groups of the Tusket Isles, stud- 
ding the waters of Argyle Bay and the Abuptic Harbor. Like most other 
collections of islands on this continent, they are popularly supposed to be 



116 Route 24. DIGBY XECK. 

365 in number, though they do not claim to possess an intercalary islet 
like that on Lake George (New York), -n-hich appears only even,- fourth 
year. The Tuskets vary in size from ;Morris Island, which is 3 M. long, 
down to the smallest tuft-crowned rocks, and afford a great diversity of 
scenery. The outer fringe of the archipelago is threaded by the Hahfax 
and Yarmouth steamship (see page 125), 

"The scenery of Argyle Bav is extremely beautiful of its kind; innumerable 
islands and peninsulas enclose the water in every direction Cottages and cul- 
tivated land break the masses of forest, and the masts of small fishing- vessels peep- 
ing up from every little cove attest the mtdtiplied resources which Nature has pro- 
vided for the supply of the inhabitants. ■• (Capt. Moorsox.) 

Among these narrow passes hundreds of Acadians took refuge during the persecu- 
tions of 1758 - 60. A British frigate was sent down to hunt them out, but one of her 
boats' crews was destroyed by the fugitives among the islands, and they were not 
dislodged. There are now two or three hamlets of Acadians in the region of the 
upper lakes. 

[The Editor deprecates the meagreness of the foregoing account of the Tusket 
Lakes. It was too late in the season, when he arrived at Yarmouth, to make the 
tour of this district, and the landlord of the United States Hotel, the best authority 
on the sporting facilities of the lake-country, was then attending a party of Boston 
sportsmen among the Blue Mts. The foregoing statements about the district, 
though obtained from the best accessible sources of information, are therefore given 
under reserve ; and it would be best for gentlemen who wish to stmimer among the 
Tuskets to make inquiries by letter of the proprietor of the United States Hotel, 
Tarmouth, N. S.] 

24. Digby Neck. 

Tri-weeklv stages leave Disbv for this remote corner of Nova Scotia. Tare to 
Sandv Cove'. S 1.50 : to West^ort, S 2. 

Distances. —Digbv to Rosswav, 8^ -M- : Waterford, 12 ; Centreville, 15 ; Lake- 
side, 17 ; Sandy Cove, 20 ; Little River, 25 ; Petite Passage, 30 ; Free Port ; West 
Port, 40. 

The stage runs S. W. from Digby, leaving the settlements of Marshall- 
town and Brighton on the 1., across the Smelt Eiver. The first hamlet 
reached is Eossicay, whence a road crosses to Gulliver's Cove on the Bay 
of Fundy. For over 20 IM. the road descends the remarkable peninsula 
of Digby Neck, whose average width, from bay to bay, is about li M. 
On the 1. is the continuous range of dark hills which marks the W. end 
of the Xorth ^It. range, where it is sinking towards the sea. Among these 
hills are found fine specimens of agate and jasper, and the views from their 
summits (when not hidden by trees) reveal broad and brilliant stretches 
of blue water on either side. Fogs are, however, verv' prevalent here, and 
are locally supposed to be rather healthy than otherwise. On the 1. of the 
road are the broad waters of St. Mary's Bay, far beyond which are the 
low and rugged Blue ^Its. 

Sandy Cove (small inn) is the metropolis of Digby Neck, and has 400 
inhabitants and two churches. Its people live by farming and fishing, 
and support a fortnightly packet-boat to St. John, N. B. 4 M. S. E.,- 
across St. Mary's Bay, is the port of \Yeymouth (see page 112). Beyond 
Little Eiver village the stage crosses the ridge, and the passenger passes 



NOVA-SCOTIA COAST. Route 25. 117 

the Petite Passage, which separates Digby Neck from Long Island. This 
strait is quite deep and 1 M. wide, and has a red-and-white flashing hght 
on its N. W. point (Boar's Head). On the opposite shore of the passage 
IS a village of 390 inhabitants (mostly fishermen), and the stage now runs 
down Long Island on the Bay of Fundy side. If there is no fog the vieAv 
across the bay is pleasing, and is usually enlivened by the sails of passing 
vessels. Long Island is about 10 M. long, and 2 M. wide, and its village 
of Free Port has 700 inhabitants. 

Near the end of Long Island another ferry-boat is taken, and the trav- 
eller crosses the Grand Passage to West Port {Denton'' s Hotel), a village 
of 600 inhabitants, most of whom are fishermen, shipbiiilders, or sea- 
captains. This town is on Brier Island, the S. E. portal of the Baj^ of 
Fundy, and is 5 M. long by 2 M. wide. On its E. side are two fixed white 
lights, and on the W. are a fog-whistle and a powerful white light visible 
for 15 M. 

25. Halifax to Yarmouth. — The Atlantic Coast of Nova 
Scotia. 

The steamers M. A. Starr and Edgar Stuart, of Fishwick's Express 
Line, ply along the coast of Nova Scotia. One of them leaves Halifax for 
Yarmouth on Tuesday, at 6 A. m. ; leaving Yarmouth on Thursday, at 
9 A, M. (There is also a possibility that a vessel of this line will ply dur- 
ing the present summer between Halifax, Cape Canso, Guysborough, 
Port Hastings, Port Mulgrave, and Antigonish.) 

Fares. — Halifax to Lunenburg, S2 ; to LlTerpool, $3.50 ; to Shelbume, $4.50 ; 
to Yarmouth, ^6. Lunenburg to Liverpool, $ 3 ; to Shelburne, $3.50; to Yar- 
mouth, $4.50. Liverpool to Shelburne, $ 2 ; to Yarmouth, $3.50. Shelburne to 
Yarmouth, $2,50. Berths are included in these prices, but the meals are extra. 

"The Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia, from Cape Canso to Cape Sable, is pierced 
•with innumerable small bays, harbors, and rivers. The shores are lined with rocks 
and thousands of islands ; and although no part of the country can properly be con- 
sidered mountainous, and there are but few steep high cliffs, yet the aspect of the 
whole, if not romantically sublime, is exceedingly pictui'esque ; and the scenery, in 
many places, is richly beautiful.. The landscape which the head of Mahone Bay, in 
particular, presents can scarcely be svirpassed." (M'Gregor's British America.) 

" The jagged outline of this coast, as seen upon the map, reminds us of the equally 
indented Atlantic shores of Scandinavia ; and the character of the coast as he sails 
along it — the rocky surface, the scanty herbage, and the endless pine forests — re- 
call to the traveller the appearance and natural productions of the same European 
country." (Prof. Johnston.) 

The steamer passes down Halifax Harbor (see page 93), and gains the 
open sea beyond Chebucto Head and the lighthouse on Sambro Island. 
She usually makes a good offing before turning down the coast, in order to 
avoid the far-reaching and dangerous Sambro Ledges. W. of the open 
light of Pennant Bay is Mars Head, on whose fatal rocks the ocean steam- 
ship Atlantic was wrecked. 



118 Routers. LUNENBURG. 

This line of coast has been famous for its marine disasters. In 1779 the British 
war-vessels North and Helena were wrecked near Sambro, and 170 men were drowned. 
Mars Head derives its name from the fact that the British line-of-battle ship Mars, 
70 guns, was wrecked vipon its black ledges. In 1779 the American war-vessel Viper, 
22, attacked H. M. S. Resolution, just off Sambro, and captured her after a long and 
desperate battle, in which both ships were badly cut to pieces. Cape Sambro was 
named by the mariners of St. Malo early in the 17th century ; and it is thought that 
the present form of the name is a corruption of St. Cendre, the original designation. 
The ancient Latin book called the Noviis Orbis (published by Elzevir; Amsterdam, 
1633) says that the islands between Cape Sambro (Sesa?7ibre) and Mahone Bay were 
called the Martyrs' Isles, on account of the Frenchmen who had there been mas- 
sacred by the heathen Indians. 

Beyond Cape Prospect the deep indentations of St. Margaret's Bay and 
Mahone Bay make in on the N., and 

" breezy Aspotogon 
Lifts high its summit blue." 

The roughest water of the voyage is usually found while crossing the 

openings of these bays. The course is laid for Cross Island, where there 

are two lights, one of which is visible for 14 M. Passing close in by this 

island, the steamer enters that pretty bay which was formerly known to 

the Indians as Malagash, or "Milky," on account of the whiteness of its 

stormy surf At the head of this bay the white and compact town of 

Lunenburg is seen between two round green hills. The steamer passes 

around the outermost of these, and enters the snug little harbor. 

" The town of Lunenburg is situated at the innermost extremity of a peninsula, 
and to a military traveller presents a more formidable aspect than any other in Nova 
Scotia, the upper houses being placed on the crests of steep glacis slopes, so as to 
bear upon all approaches." (Capt. Mooeson.) 

Lunenburg {King^s Hotel) is a thriving little seaport, situated on a se- 
cure and spacious harbor, and enjoying a lucrative West-India trade. 
Together with its immediate environs, it has 3,231 inhabitants, of whom 
over half are in the port itself. The German character of the citizens is 
still retained, though not so completely as in their i-ural settlements ; and 
the principal churches are Lutheran. The public buildings of Lunenburg 
County are located here. A large trade in lumber and fish is carried on, in 
addition to the southern exports. There are numerous farming communi- 
ties of Germanic origin in the vicinity; and the shore-roads exhibit at- 
tractive phases of marine scenery. 7 M. distant is the beaixtifully situated 
village of Mahone Bay (see Eoute 26) ; 4 M. distant are the remarkable sea- 
side ledges called the Blue EocJcs ; to the S. E. is the rural settlement of 
Lunenburg Peninsula, off which are the sea-girt farms of Heckman's 
Island ; and 12 M. distant is the gold district of The Ovens. 

This site was anciently occupied by the Indian village of Malagash. In 1745 the 
British government issued a proclamation inviting German Protestants to emigrate 
to Nova Scotia and take up its unoccupied lands. In 1753, 200 famiUes of Germans 
and Swiss settled at Lunenburg, and were provided with farming implements and 
three years' provisions by the government. They fortified their new domains as 
well as possible, but many of the people were killed by Indians lurking in the woods. 
The settlement was thus held in check until after the Conquest of Canada, when the 
Indians ceased hostiUties. In 1777 the town was attacked by two American priva- 



IKONBOUND ISLAND. Route 25. 119 

teers, -who landed detachments of armed men and occupied the principal buildings. 
After plundering the place and securing a valuable booty, these unwelcome visitors 
sailed away rejoicing, leaving Lunenburg to put on the robes of war and anxiously 
yearn for another naval attack, for whose reception spirited provisions were made. 

Among the people throughout this county German customs are still preserved, as 
at weddings and funerals ; the German language is spoken ; and sermons are deliv- 
ered oftentimes in the same tongue. The cows are made to do service in ploughing, 
and the farming implements are of a primitive pattern. A large portion of the out- 
door work in the fields is done by the women, who are generally strong and muscular. 

The steamer leaves Lunenburg Harbor, passes Battery Point and its 
lighthouse on the 1., and descends between the knob-like hills of the outer 
harbor. On the r. are the shores of the remarkable peninsula of The 
Ovens (distant from Lunenbui'g, by road, 10 - 12 M.). The low cliffs along 
this shore are pierced by numerous caverns, three of which are 70 ft. wide 
at their mouths and over 200 ft. deep. The sea dashes into these dark 
recesses during a heavy swell with an amazing roar, broken by deep 
booming reverberations. Certain features in the formation of these caves 
have led to the supposition that they were made by human labor, though 
the theorists do not state the probable object for which they were exca- 
vated. In 1861 gold was discovered on the Ovens peninsula, and 2,000 
ounces were obtained during that autumn, since which the mining fever 
has subsided, and no earnest work has been done here. The precious metal 
was obtained chiefly by washing, and but little was effected in the way 
of quartz-crushing. 

Beyond Ovens Head the pretty circular indentation of Rose Bay is seen 
on the r., on whose shores is a settlement of 250 German farmers. The 
steamer now passes between Cross Island (1.) and Rose Head, which are 
about 2 M. apart, and enters the Atlantic. When a suflacient offing has 
been made, the course is laid S. W. ^ W. for 8| M. Point Enrag^ is soon 
passed, and then the vessel approaches * Ironbound Island. This re- 
markable rock is about | M. long, and rises from the sea on all sides in 
smooth curves of dark and iron-like rock, on which the mighty surges 
of the Atlantic are broken into great sheets of white and hissing foam. 
Upon this dangerous outpost of Nova Scotia there is a revolving light, 
which is visible for 13 M. Beyond Ironbound, on the r., is seen the deep 
estuary of the Lahave River, which is navigable to Bridgewater, a distance 
of 13 M., passing for 12 M. through the hamlets of New Dublin, and thence 
through a valley between high and knob-like hills. 

At Fort La Heve in 1636-7, died Isaac de Razilly, " Knight Commander of the 
Order of St. John of Jerusalem, Lieutenant-General of Acadie, and Captain of the 
West." He was a relative of Cardinal RicheUeu, and had fought in the campaigns 
of La Rochelle and the coast of Morocco. In 1642 D'Aulnay purchased these do- 
mains from Claude de Razilly, but soon evacuated the place, removing the people to 
Port Royal. By 1654 the colony had recovered itself, having "undoubtedly the 
best port and the best soil in the whole country." It was then attacked by the 
Sieur le Borgne, who burned all its houses and the chapel. At a later day the new- 
Fort La Heve was attacked by a strong force of New-England troops, who were 
beaten off several times with the loss of some of their best men. But the brave 
Frenchmen were finally forced to surrender, and the place was reduced to ruins. 
In 1705 the settlement was again destroyed by Boston privateers. 



1'20 EouU^d. LmiKPOOL. 

T\tien off Cape Lahave the steamer takes a course W. by S., which is 
follovred for 1d§ M. The fishing hamlet of Broad Cove is on the shore 
S. W. of Cape Lahave; and when about 9 M. fi\->m the cape, the entrance 
of Port Medway is seen. This harbor is 4 M. long and 1^ M. wide, and 
receives the Avaters of the Port Medway and Pedley Kivers. Port Med- 
way (Dnuphy's Hotel) is on its W. shore, and has 600 inhabitants, who 
are engaged in shipbuilding and lumbering. 

The steamer soon rounds the revolving red light (visible 16 M.) on Cof- 
fin's Island, and turns to the X. W. up Liverpool Bay. The shores are 
well inhabited, with the settlement of Moose Eai-bor on the 1., and Brool- 
lyn (or Herring Cove) on the r. The lighthouse on Fort Point is rounded 
and the vessel enters the mouth of the Liverpool Eiver, with a line of 
wharves on the 1., and the bridge in advance. 

Liverpool (, Milage Green Hotel, a comfortable summer-house; and two 
other inns) is a flourishing seaport with 3,102 inhabitants, 5 churches, a 
weekly paper, and a bank. Its principal industries are Imnbering, fish- 
ing, and shipbuilding. The town occupies the rocky shore at the mouth 
of the Liverpool River, and its streets are adorned with numerous large 
shade trees. Many summer visitors come to this place, either on account 
of its own attractions, or to seek the trout on the adjacent streams and 
lakes (see Route 27). There are pleasant drives also on the Mill- Village 
Road, and aroimd the shores of the bay. 

Liverpool occupies the site of the ancient Indian domain of O^tmJcfgfck-, made 
classic in the traditions of the Micmacs by the celebrated encounter -which took 
place here between the divine Glooscap ^see pag^-- lOo"" and the great sorceress of the 
Atlantic coast. The struggle of craft and maleroleuce ag;unst superior power are 
quaintly narrated, though taking forms not pleasing to refined minds, and the con- 
test ends in the defeat of the hag of Og^umkeseok, who is rent in pieces by the 
hunting-dogs of Glooscap. 

In May. loOi, the harbor of Liverpool -was entered by Pierre du Guast, '' Sieur de 
Monts of Saintong-e. Gentleman in Ordinary of the Chamter, and Governor of Pons ." 
who had secured a monopoly of the fur-trade between :iCi^ and chi-"' N. latitude- He 
found a ship here trading -without authority, and confiscated her. naming the har- 
bor Port Rossignol. after her captain. '" as though M. de Monts had wished to make 
some compensation to the man for the loss he intiicted on him. by immortalizirg 
Ms name." This designation did not hold to the harbor, but has been transferred 
to the large and beaiittful lake near the head-waters of the Liverpool Kiver. 

About 1634 a shore-fishery -was established here by M Penys and Gov. Eazilly. 
This enterprise was for a long time suci-^-ssful, but was finally crippled by the cap- 
ture of its heavily laden freigh ting-ship by the Portuguese. Soon afterward Denys 
was forced to leave Port Rossignol on account of the machinations of P'Aulnay 
Charnisay. and the settlement was broken up. By the year 1760 a thriving Tillage 
stood on this site, and in the War of 1S12 many active pri-rateers -were fitted out here. 
In lSo2 the port owned 2o,lKX> tons of shipping. 

On leaving Liverpool Bay the steamer rounds "Western Head and runs 
S. W. :| S. 14 M. On the r. is the deep embayment of Port Mouton, 
partly sheltered by Mouton Island, and lighted by a fixed red light on 
Spectacle Island. At its head is the farming and fishing settlement of 
Port Mouton, with 350 inhabitants. This inlet was visited by the ex- 
ploring ship of the Sieur de Monts in 1604, and received the name which 



SHELBURNE. Route 25. 121 

it still bears because a sheep here leaped from the deck into the bay and 

was drowned. The shores Avere settled in 1783 by the disbanded veterans 

of Tarleton's Legion, who had done such valiant service in the Carolinas. 

In July, 1622, Sir William Alexander's pioneer-ship entered Port Mouton, "and 
discovered three very pleasant harbors and went ashore in one of them, which, after 
the ship's name, they called Luke's Bay, where they found, a great way up, a very 
pleasant river, being three fathoms deep at the entry thereof, and on every side of 
the same they did see very delicate meadows, having Roses white and red growing 
thereon, with a kind of white Lily, which had a dainty smell." These shores, which 
■were hardly so fair as the old mariner painted them, were soon occupied by a French 
post, after whose destruction they remained in solitude for over a century. 

On Little Hope Island is a revolving red light, beyond which the steamer 
runs W. S. W. 15 M. ; then Port Joli opens to the N. W., on which is a 
fishing-village of 200 inhabitants. About 3 M. beyond is Port Herbert, a 
deep and narrow estuary with another maritime hamlet. Farther W. is 
the mouth of Sable River ; but the steamer holds a course too far out to 
distinguish much of these low shores. 3^ M. N. is Ram Island, W. of 
which are the ledges off Ragged Island Harbor, at whose head is a village 
of 350 inhabitants. On the W. side of the harbor is Locke's Island (two 
inns), a prosperous little port of 400 inhabitants, whence the West-India 
trade and the Bank fisheries are carried on. During the season of 1874 
70,000 quintals offish (valued at $250,000) were exported from this point. 
On Carter's Island is a fixed red light, and the sea-swept ledge of Gull 
Rock lies outside of the harbor, and has a powerful white light. Bevond 
Western Head the steamer runs across the wide estuaries of Green Harbor 
and the Jordan River, on whose shores are four maritime hamlets. The 
course is changed to N. W. ^ N., and Bony's and Government Points are 
passed on the r. On the 1. Cape Roseway is approached, on which are 
two fixed white lights, visible for 10 and 18 M., standing in a black-and- 
white striped tower. Passing between Surf Point and Sand Point the ves- 
sel turns N. by E., leaving Birchtown Bay on the 1., and runs up to Shel- 
burne. The last few miles are traversed between the picturesque shores 
of a bay which an enthusiastic mariner has called " the best in the world, 
except the harbor of Sydney, in Australia." 

Shelhurne {Port Roseioay Rouse ; English and American Hotel) is the cap- 
ital of Shelburne County, and has over 1,000 inhabitants and 5 churches. 
It is engaged chiefly in fishing and shipbuilding, and excels in the latter 
branch of business. The harbor is 9 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, and has 
5-7 fathoms of water, Avithout any shoals or flats. It is completely land- 
locked, but can never attain any commercial importance, owing to the 
fact that it is frozen solid during the Avinter, there being no river currents 
or strong tides to agitate the Avater. There are granite-ledges near the 
village, and the RoscAvay River empties into the bay 1 M. distant. Birch- 
town is 5 M. from Shelburne, and is at the head of a branch of the bay. It 
is inhabited by the descendants of the negro slaves brought from Mary- 
land and Virginia by the Loyalist refugees, in 1783. The country back 
6 



122 Houtc £5. FORT LATOUR 

of Sholbunio i? unimprv>vod. and the ivad? ?oon torminato in the great for- 
05tji about the Blue Mtt^. Stagos run fivm this town E. and W. Fare?, 
Shelburno to Liverpool, $2.50; to Barrington, $1.50; to Yarmouth, $4. 

'* Thf> to\n\ of Shelburno is situated at the N. extremity of a beautiful inlet, 10 M. 
in leugth and 2-^ M. iu breadth, iu which the whole rv\val navy of Great Britain 
might lie v\>mplotel>- landUvkevi. " " In ITSS lai-gv uuuibors of American Loyalists 
settled here, hoping to erei't a great city on this unriviilkxl harbor. They brought 
their serv^mtsand «.\\u\vv4ges. and establishevi a cultuivd uietroix^litan society. Shel- 
Inirne soon nm ahead of IhUifiix, and measures vrerv taken to transter the seat of 
government her<>. ^Vithiu one yetir the pi-mievjU forest was n^placixi by a city of 
12,000 inhabitants (,of whom 1.2iX> were uegnx^sV The obscure h.-uulet which had 
lieen fbuudevl herv (, under the utuue of New .lerusalem't iu 17^>t was replacevi by a 
metn^polis : and Oov. Tarr soon enteiwi the bju- on the frigate La St^j-hif, .amid the 
rv>ariug of saluting batteries, and n.amet.i the new city Slielbiirue. Biit the place 
had no rural Kack -country to supply and be enriche\l by ; and the colonists, mc^stly 
patxicians frv>m the Atlantic cities, could not and would not engiige iu the fisheries. 
The money which they had brvnight from their old homes was at Itjst exhausted, and 
theiv '* Shelburno dwiudkxl into insignificance almost as rapidly as it had risen to 
notoriety." Many of its i^eople rvturmni contritely to the United States ; and the 
population herv soon ssuik to 400. " It is only the sight of a few large storehouses, 
with doi'ayovl timlvrs and window-frames, standing near the wharves, that will lead 
huu to conclude that those wharves must once ha>-e teomt\i with shipurasters and 
sailors. The strv^t*; of the towni are change^l into avenues boundtHl by stoue fences 
on either side, in which srn\ss plants coutest the palm of supremacy ^Tith stones." 
ivitliiu two years over 6^,5lX\000 were sunk in the founding of Shelburne. 

The steamer leaves Shelburne by the same course ou which she entered, 
■with the stunted forests; of McXutt's Island ou the r. Eouudiug Cape 
iiiVcjnit/ within 1 M. of the lights, she runs down by Gray's Isljuid, pass- 
ing Kound Bay and the hamlet of Black Foint, ou the bold headland of 
the same name. Xftjro Island is then seen ou the r., and is occupied by 
a population of fishermen ; while its X. E. point has a powerful red-and- 
white ilashing light. Inside of this island is die broad estuary of the Clyde 
Fiver, and near by is the large and picturesque fishing-village of Cape 
JVr(7/v. Cape Negro w-as so named by Champlain, in 1604, " on account 
of a rock which at a distai\ce resembles one." The steamer tlien passes 
the Salvage Focks, otT Blanche Island v Foint JetYreys), and opens the 
brv^ad bay of Port Latour on the X. W. This haven was the scene of 
stirring events diiring the 17th century, and the i-emains of the fort of 
Claude de la Tour are still visible here. 

*' Cl!\ude Turgis de St. Estienno, Sieur de la Toirr. of the province of Champagne, 
quitted Paris, takiug with him his son Charles Amador, then 14 years old. to settle 
iu Acadia, near Voutrincourt. who was then eugagvsi iu founding Port Kox-jU." 17 
years afterwards, Charles succeevlcil to the gvwernmeut on the death of Biencourt, 
Pourrincourt"s sou, and for 4 years held Fort St. Louis, iu the pn?sent Port Latour. 
Me.aiitime Claude had Kvn capturevl by the Yhiglish and carried to L<>ndon. where 
he was knightevi, and thou m.arried one of the Queen's maids-of-honor. Being a 
Huguenot, he wa^ the more easily soilncovi from his allegiance to France, suid he 
otftrevl to the King to prwure the surrender of Fort St. Louis (the only French post 
then held in Acadia) to the English So he sailevi to Nova Scotia with two frigates, 
and asketi his son to yield up the stronghold, otferiug him high honors at London 
,and the supreme command in Acadia, onbehalf of the English" power. ''Claude at 
once told his f;\ther that he w;\s mistaken in suppo.<ing him capable of giving up the 
place to the euennes of the state. That he would prei^rve it for the king his m,aster 
■while he had a breath of life. That he esteemed highly the dignities offered him by 



CAPE SABLE. Route 25. 123 

the English king, but should not buy thorn at the price of treason. That the prince 
he served was able to requite him ; and if not, that fidelity was its own best recom- 
pense." The fother employed affectionate intercession and bold menace, alike in 
vain ; and the English naval commander then landed his forces, but was severely 
repulsed from the fort, and finally gave up the siege. A traitor to France and a 
cause of disaster to England, the unfortunate La Tour dared not return to Europe, 
but advised his patrician wife to go back with the fleet, since naught now remained 
for him but penury and misery. The noble lady replied, " that she had not married 
him to abandon him. That wherever he should take her, and in whatever condi- 
tion he might be placed, she would always be his faithful companion, and that all 
her happiness would consist in softening his grief." He then threw himself on the 
clemency of his son, who tempered filial affection with military vigilance, and wel- 
comed the elder La Tour, with his family, servants, and equipage, giving him a house 
and liberal subsistence, but making and enforcing the condition that neither himself 
nor his wife should ever enter Fort St. Louis. There they lived in happiness and 
comfort for many years. (>See also page 19.) 

The hamlet of Port Latour is seen on the inner shore, and the 
vessel rounds the long low promontory of Baccaro Point, on which is a 
small village and a fixed red light (visible 12 M.). On the W. is Cape 
Sable Island, which is 7 M. long and 2 - 3 M. wide, and has a population 
of 1,636, with three churches. Its first settlers were the French Acadians, 
who had prosperous little hamlets on the shores. In August, 1758, 400 
soldiers of the 35th British Regiment landed here and destroyed the settle- 
ments, and carried priest and people away to Halifax. About 1784 the 
island was occupied by Loyalists from the New-England coasts, whose de- 
scendants are daring and adventurous mariners. Cape Sable is on an 
outer islet at the extreme S. point of the island and of Nova Scotia, and is 
8- 9 M. S. W. of Baccaro Point. 

It is supposed that Cape Sable and the adjacent shores were the ancient lands of 
the Norse discoverers, " flat, and covered with wood, and where white sands were 
far around where they went, and the shore was low." In the year 994 this point was 
visited by Leif, the son of Eric the Red, of BrattahUd, in Greenland. He anchored 
his ship off shore and landed in a boat ; and when he returned on board he said : 
" This land shall be named after its qualities, and called Markland " (woodland). 
Thence he sailed southward, and discovered Vinland the Good, on the S. shores of 
Massachusetts and Rhode Island, where for many years the bold Norsemen main- 
tained colonies. In the year 1007 Markland was again visited by Thorfinn Karlsefne, 
who, with 160 men, was sailing south to Vinland. These events are narrated in the 
ancient Icelandic epics of the Saga of Eric the Red and the Saga of Thorfinn Karlsefne. 

In 1347 a ship arrived at Iceland from the shores of Markland, which is de- 
scribed by the Annales Skalholthii and the Codex Flateyensis as having been 
smaller than any Icelandic coasting-vessel. In such tiny craft did the fearless 
Norsemen visit these iron-bound shores. 

In the autumn of 1750 there was a sharp naval action off the cape between 
II. M. S. Albany and the French war-vessel St. Francis. The engagement lasted 
four hours, and ended in the surrender of the St. Francis, whose convoy, however, 
escaped and reached its destination. 

_ In .July, 1812, the Salem privateer Polly was cruising off Cape Sable, when she 
sighted two strange sail, and bore down on them, supposing them to be merchant- 
men ; but one was a British sloop-of-war, which opened a hot fire upon the incau- 
tious Polly, and a sharp chase ensued. A calm commenced, during which the frig- 
ate's boats and launch attacked the privateer, but were repulsed by heavy dis- 
charges of musketry and langrage. The Polly made her escape, and during the 
chase and action the convoy of the frigate had been captured by the privateer Mad- 
ison, and was sent into Salem. 

In the same vicinity (Aug. 1, 1812) the Rhode-Island privateer Yankee captured 
the British ship Royal Bounty, 10 guns, after a battle of one hour's duration. The 



124 Route 25. BARRINGTON. 

privateer's broadsides were delivered with great precision, and 150 of her shot struck 
the enemy, while the fire of the Royal Bounty, though rapid and heavy, was nearly 
ineffective. The shattered Briton became unmanageable, and while in that condi- 
tion was raked from stem to stern by the Yankee's batteries. 

Cape Sable has long been dreaded by seamen , and has caught up and destroyed 
many vessels. It is one of the most dangerous prongs of that iron-bound Province 
for which Edmund Burke could find no better words than " that hard-visaged, ill- 
favored brat " Probably the most- destructive wreck on this shore was that of the 
ocean steamship Hungarian. 

The steamer is now running to the N. W. up the Barrington Pas- 
sage, between Cape Sable Island and the populous Baccaro peninsula. In 
about 12 M. it lies to off Barrington, a thriving maritime village of 1,000 
inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the fishei'ies and the coasting 
trade. Clyde River is about 9 M. N. E., and is a lumbering district origi- 
nally settled by Welshmen. 10-12 M. N. are the Sabimm and Great 
Pubnico Lakes. Barrington was settled at an early date by the French, 
but they were crowded off in 1763 by the arrival of 160 families from Cape 
Cod, who brought hither their household effects on their own vessels. 
After the Revolution, a colony of Loyalists from Nantucket settled here 
with their whilom neighbors. 

The course is now to the S. W., through a naiTOw and tide-swept pas- 
sage between Clement Point and N. E. Point, and thence out through the 
Barrington West Passage, passing the Baptist church near Clarke's Har- 
bor, and emerging on the open sea between Bear Point and Newell Head. 
(It is to be noted that, under certain adverse conditions of wind and tide, 
the steamer does not call at Barrington, but rounds Cape Sable on the 
outside.) On the 1. is Green Island, hiding Cape Sable, and the inlet of 
Shag Harbor is seen on the r. On Bon Portage Island (whose original 
French name was Bon Potage) is a new lighthouse, to warn vessels from 
the rugged shores on which the Viceroy was wrecked. The course soon 
changes toward the N. W., and Seal Island, "the elbow of the Bay of 
Fundy," is seen on the 1., far out at sea, with the tower of its lighthouse 
(fixed white light, visible 18 M., and fog- whistle) looming above its low 
shores. On this island the ocean-steamship Columbia was lost. The 
Blonde Rock is 3| M. S. by W. from the lighthouse, and marks the point 
where H. B. M. frigate Blonde went to pieces, in 1782. Her crew was res- 
cued from the island and was given liberty by the American privateers 
Lively and Scammell, which were prowling about Cape Sable at the time 
of the wreck. 

When the Seal Island lighthouse is just abeam, on the other side is seen 
Cockerwhit and the Mutton Islands ; N. of Seal Island the Noddy, Llud, 
and Round Islands are seen, lying well out at sea. The early French 
maps (Chaubert's) gave these lonely islands the significant name of Lea 
Isles aux Loiq)s 3farins. 

From Cape Sable " one goes to the Isle aux Cormorants, a league distant, so called 
on account of the infinite number there of those birds, with whose eggs we filled a 



TU3KET ISLANDS. Route 25, 125 

capk ; and from this bay making W. about 6 leagues , crossing a bay wbich runs in 
2-3 leagues to the N., we meet several islands, 2-3 leagues out to sea, which may 
contain, some 2, others 8 leagues, and others less, according to my judgment. They 
are mostly very dangerous for vessels to come close to, on account of the great tides 
and rocks level with the water. These islands are filled with pine-trees, firs, birches, 
and aspens. A httle further on are 4 others. In one there is so great a quantity of 
birds called tangueux that they may be easily knocked doyn with a stick. In 
another there are seals. In two others there is such an abundance of birds of dif- 
ferent kinds that, without having seen them, could not be imagined, such as cor- 
morants, ducks of three kinds, geese, marmettes, bustards, perrogweis de rner, snipes, 
vultures, and other birds of prey, maunes, sea-larks of two or three kinds, herons, 
goillants, curlews, sea-gulls, divers, kites, appoils, crows, cranes, and other sorts, 
which make their nests here." (Champlain. ) 

" Here are many islands extending into the sea, 4- 5 M. distant from the main- 
land, and many rocks with breaking seas. Some of these islands, on account of the 
multitude of birds, are called Isles aux Tangueux ; others are called Isles aux Loups 
Marms (Seal Islands)." (Novus Orbis.) 

N. of St. John's Island (on the r.) is seen the deep inlet of Pubnico Har- 
bor, on whose shores is the great fishing-village of Pubnico ( Garland's 
ffotel), with 1,900 inhabitants, of whom 186 families are Acadian-French, 
the greater portion belonging to the families of Amiro and D'Entremont. 
There are valuable eel-fisheries off this coast, and the Acadians own 65 
schooners in the Banks fisheries. 5 M. N. is Argyle, a settlement of 800 
inhabitants, near the island-strewn Abuptic Harbor. 

The steamer now crosses the mouth of.Argyle Bay and the estuary of 
the Tusket Eiver (see page 116), and enters the archipelago of the * Tusket 
Islands. In favorable conditions of wind and tide she traverses the Ellen- 
wood Passage, passing the Bald Tuskets, Ellenwood, Allen, and Murder 
Islands, and a multitude of others. The islands ai'e of great variety of size 
and shape, and are usually thickly covered with low and sturdy trees ; 
and the channels between them are naiTow and very deep. The frequent 
kaleidoscopic changes in the views on either side, and the fascinating 
commingling and contrast of forest, rock, and water, recall the scenery of 
the Thousand Islands or the Narrows of Lake George. But the Tuskets 
are not even embayed ; they stand off one of the sharpest angles of the 
continent, and the deep lanes between them are traversed by the strongest 
tides of the ocean. 

Soon after passing the last Tusket the steamer runs in near the white 
village on Jebogue Point, and enters Yarmouth Sound. On the 1. is Cape 
Fourchu, with its fog-whistle and a lofty revolving light which is visible 
for 18 M. The narrow channel is ascended, with a plain of mud on either 
side, if the tide is out; and the vessel reaches the end of her journey at the 
wharves of Yarmouth. 

Yarmouth, see page 114. 



Houte Ce. ST. MAECtAKET'S BAY, 



23. Halifax to Yarmouth, by the Shore Route. ~ Chester 
and Mahone Bay. 

The easiest route to the chief ports on this coast is by the steamship line (see 
Boute2o); and the new 'Western-Connties Railway, from Yarmouth to Annapolis, 
will. Avhen completed, fiiruish a still more expeditious line of trarel. But many 
points on the Atlantic ft-ont of the Province are. and -will be, accessible only by 
stages. Thi* mode of trarel is fully as arduous here as in other remote districts," and 
the accommodations for Tvayiarers are indifferent. 

Distances. — Halitax to St. Margaret? Bay, 21 M. ; Hubbard's Core (McLean's), 
S2 ; Chester. 4o ; Mahone Bav, 62 (branch to Lunenburg in 7 M.") ; Bridgevrater, 70 ; 
Mill Tillage, SS : Liverpool, " 97 ; Port Mouton. 107: Port JoU. 112: Sable River, 
122; Jordan River. ISO; Shelbiurne, 137: Barrington. 157 : Pubnico, 175 ; Tusket, 
191: Yarmolith, 201. (Certain facts ascertaineil vrhile travelling over this route 
have levl the Editor to state the distance between Bridgewater and Chester as 4 M. 
less than that given in the official itinerary.) 

Fares. — Haliftix to Chester, S2.50; Mahone Bay, 83.50 (Lunenburg, §4); 
Bridgewater, S 4; : Liverpool, § 6 ; Shelburne, 8 S.50 ; Barrington, §10 ; Yarmouth, 
812.- 

The stage rattles up the hilly streets of Halifax at early momiijg, and 
traverses the wide commons X. of the Citadel, "with formal lines of trees 
on either side. Beyond the ensuing line of suburban villas it descends to 
the level of the Northwest Arm (see page 100), along whose head it passes. 
The road then leads along the shores of the lakes whence Halifax draws 
its water-supply, and enters a dreary and thinly settled region. Dauphi- 
ney's Cove is at the head of * St. Margaret's Bay, one of the most beauti- 
ful bays on all this remarkable coast. It is 12 M. long by 6 M. wide, and 
is entered by a passage 2 M. wide ; and is supposed to have been named 
(Baie de Ste. Jlaiyuerite) by Champlain, who visited it in May, 1603. 
There are several small maritime villages on its shores, and the dark blue 
waters, boimded by rugged hills, are deep enough for the passage of large 
ships. The stage runs S. "W. along the shore for 11 M., sotuetimes rolling 
alongside of beaches of dazzling white sand, then by shingly and stony 
strands on which the embayed surf breaks lightly, and then by the huts 
of fishermen's hamlets, with their boats, nets, and kettles by the road- 
side. Eubbai'd's Cove has a small inn, where passengers get their midday 
meals. 

There was an ancient watCT-route from this point to the Basin of Minas. 2 M. 
from the Cove is Daitphineu's Lake, which is i M. long, whence a carry of li M. leads 
into the Ponhook Lake, a river-Uke expanse S M. long, and nowhere so much as 1 
M. wide. A short outlet leads to the Bhnd Lake, which winds for 7 M. through the 
forests W. of the Ardoise Mt., and is drained by the St. Croix River, emptying into 
the Avon at Windsor. 

7 M. S. "W. of Hubbard's Cove the stage crosses the Fast Hiver, "a 
glorious runway for salmon, with splendid falls and cold brooks tumbling 
into it at intervals, at the mouth of which large trout can be caught two 
at a time, if the angler be skilful enough to land them when hooked." 
Frequent and beautiful views of Mahone Bay are now gained (on the 1.), 
as the stage sweeps around its head and descends to 



CHESTER. Route 26. 127 

Chester (two good inns), a village of about 900 inhabitants, finely situ- 
ated on a hill-slope which overlooks the Chester Basin and Llahone Bay. 
It has three churches, and a pleasant summer society. This town was 
settled about the year 1760 by 144 New-Englanders, who brought an outfit 
of cattle and farming-tools. In 1784 they were joined by a large number 
of Loyalist refugees, but these were from the American cities, and soon 
wearied of farming and returned out of exile. In the woods near the vil- 
lage is a thermal spring 8 ft. around, whence a soft alkaline water is dis- 
charged; and on the shores of Sabbatee Lake are found deposits of kaolin, 
or white pipe-clay. 

Mr. Hallock is an enthusiastic admirer of this town, and says : " Three pleasant 
seasons have I spent at Chester. I idolize its very name. Just below my window a 
lawn slopes down to a little bay with a jetty, where an occasional schooner lands 
some stores. There is a large tree, under wliich I have placed some seats ; and off 
the end of the pier the ladies can catch flounders, tomcods, and cunners, in any 
quantity. There are beautiful drives in the vicinity, and innumerable islands in 
the bay, where one can bathe and picnic to heart'S-content. There are saihng-boats 
for lobster-spearing and deep-sea fishing, and row-boats too. From the top of a 
neighboring hill is a wonderful panorama of forest, stream, and cultivated shore, of 
bays and distant sea, filled with islands of every size and shape. And if one wUl go 
to Gold River he may perchance see, as I have done, caribou quietly feeding on the 
natural meadows along the upper stream. Beyond Beech Hill is a trackless forest, 
filled with moose, with which two old hunters hving near oft hold familiar inter- 
course." {The Fishing Tourist.) 

One of the pleasantest excursions in this district is to Deep Cove and 
Blandford, 16 M. from Chester, by a road which follows the shores of 
Mahone Bay. From Blandford the ascent of Mt. Aspotogon is easily ac- 
complished, and rewards the visitor by a superb marine * view, including 
the great archipelago of Mahone Bay, the deep, calm waters of St. Mar- 
garet's Bay on the E., the broken and picturesque shores towards Cape 
Sarabro, and a wide sweep of the blue Atlantic. Visitors at Chester also 
drive down the Lunenburg and Lahave road, which affords pretty sea- 
views. 

A rugged road leads across the Province to Windsor, about 40 M. N. , passing 
through an almost unbroken wilderness of hUls, and following the course of the 
Avon Lakes and River. Semi-weekly stages run from Chester to Kentville (see 
page 90). 

* Mahone Bay opens to the S., E. and "W". from Chester, and may be 
explored by boats or yachts from that village. It is studded with beau- 
tiful islands, popularly supposed to be 365 in number, the largest of which 
are occupied by cosey little farms, while the smaller ones are covered with 
bits of forest. The mainland shores are nearly all occupied by prosperous 
farms, which are under the care of the laborious Germans of the county. 
The fogs prevail in these waters to a far less extent than on the outer 
deep, and it is not infrequently that vessels round the point in a dense 
white mist and enter the sunshine on the Bay. Boats and boatmen may 
be obtained at the villages along the shore, and pleasant excursions may 
be made among the islands, in pursuit of fish. " The unrivaUed beauty 



128 Route ^6. MAHONE BAY. 

of JIahone Bar" has been the theme of praise from all who have" visited 
this district. In June, 1S13, the line-of-battle-ship La Hague and the 
frigate Orpheus chased the American privateer l\ning Teazer in among 
these islands. Though completely overpowered, the Yankee vessel re- 
fused to surrender, and she was blown up by one of her officers. The 
whole crew, 94 in number, was destroyed in this catastrophe. 

Oak Island is celebrated as one of the places -where it is alleged that Capt. 
Kidd's treasure is hidden. About 80 years ago 3 New-Euglanders churned to have 
found here evidences of a buried mystery, coinciding with a tradition to the same 
elfect. Digging down, they passed regultu- layers of tiag-stoues and cut logs, and 
their successor^ penetrated the earth over 100 tl:. farther, finding layers of timber, 
charcoal, putty, West-Indian grass, sawed planks, and other curious substances, 
togt^ther with a quaintly cai-ved stone. The pit became flooded with water, and was 
pumped out steadily. Halifax and Truro merchants invested iu the enterprise, and 
great stone drains were discovered leading from the sea into the pit. After much 
mouey and labor was spent iu the excavation, it was given up about 10 years ago, 
and tiie object of the great drains and concealed pit still remains a profound mys- 
tery. 

JBig Tancook is the chief of the islands in this bay, and is about 2 M. long. It 
contains 5lX> inhabitants, who are engaged in forming and fishing. Between this 
point and Mt. Aspotogon is Little Tancook Island, "with 00 inhabitants. These 
islands were devastixted, in 1750, by the Indians, who killed several of the settlers. 

" This bay, the scenery of which, for picturesque grandeur, is not surpassed by 
any landscape in America, is about lO M. broad and 12 deep, and contains within it 
a multitude of beautiful wooded islands, which were probably never counted, but 
are said to exceed 200.'- 

Soon after the Yarmouth stage leaves Chester " we come to Chester 
Basin, island-gemmed and indented with many a little cove ; and far out 
to ?ea, looming up in solitary grandeur, is Aspotogon, a mountain head- 
land said to be the highest land in Xova Scotia ( V ). The road follows the 
shore for many a mile, and then turns abruptly up the beautiful valley of 
Gold Eiver, the finest of all the salmon streams of this grand locality. In 
it there are eleven glorious pools, all within 2 M. of each other, and others - 
for several miles above at longer intervals." 

Malione Bay (Victoria Hotel) is a village of SOO inhabitants, situated on 
a pretty cove about 17 ls\. from Chester. It has 4 chnrches, and its inhab- 
itants are mostly engaged in fishing and the lumber-trade. In the vicinity 
ai-e several other populous German settlements, and 7 M. S. is Lunenburg 
(see page US). This point was known to the Indians by the name of 
Mushamush, and was fortified by the British in 1754. 

The stage now traverses a dreary inland region, inhabited by Germans, 
and soon reaches Bridgewater (two inns), a thriving village on the Lahave 
Eiver, 13 M. from the sea. It has 1,000 inhabitants and 4 churches, and 
is largely engaged in the lumber-trade, exporting staves to the United 
States and the "West Indies. The scenery of the Lahave Kiver is at- 
tractive and picturesque, but the saw-mills on its upper waters have 
proved fatal to the fish (see page 119). The road now ti-averses a dismal 
region for IS M,, when it reaches Mill Ullage (small hotel), on the Port 
Medway Kiver. This place has several large saw-mills and a match- 



LIVERPOOL LAKES. Route 27. 129 

factory, and its population numbers about 400. It is near the Doran and 
Herringcove Lakes, and is 6 M. from the Third Falls of the Lahave. 9 M. 
S. W. is Liverpool (see page 120). 

From Liverpool to Yarmouth the road runs along the heads of the bays 
and across the intervening strips of land. The chief stations and their 
distances are given in the itinerary on page 126 ; the descriptions of the 
towns may be found in Route 25. 

27. The Liverpool Lakes. 

This system of inland waters is most easily reached from Halifax or St. John 
by passing to Annapolis Royal and there taking the stage which leaves at 6 A. M. 
daily. 

Distances. — Annapolis ; Milford,14 M. ; Maitland, 27; Northfield,30 ; Kempt, 
35; Brookfield, 41; Caledonia Corner; Greenfield (Ponhook), 50; Middlefield, 56; 
Liverpool, 70. 

Soon after leaving Annapolis the stage enters the valley of Allen's River, 
which is followed toward the long low range of the South Mt. At Milford 
(small inn) the upper reservoirs of the Liverpool River are met, and from 
this point it is possible to descend in canoes or flat-bottomed boats to the 
town of Liverpool, 60 M. distant. If a competent guide can be secured 
at Milford this trip can be made with safety, and will open up rare fishing- 
grounds. The lakes are nearly all bordered by low and rocky shores, with 
hill-ranges in the distance ; and flow througli regions which are as yet but 
little vexed by the Avorks of man. The trout in these waters are abundant 
and not too coy; though better fishing is found in proportion to the dis- 
tance to which the southern forest is entered. Mr. McClelland has been 
the best guide from Milford, but it is uncertain whether he will be avail- 
able this summer. 

Queen's and Lunenburg Counties form "the lake region of Nova Scotia. 
All that it lacks is the grand old mountains to make it physically as at- 
tractive as the Adirondacks, while as for game and fish it is in every way 
infinitely superior. Its rivers are short, but they flow with full volume 
to the sea, and yield abundantly of salmon, trout, and sea-trout. Its lakes 
swarm with trout, and into many of them the salmon ascend to spawn, 
and are dipped and speared by the Indians in large numbers." (Hal- 
lock.) 

' ' In the hollows of the highlands are likewise embosomed lakes of every variety 
of form, and often quite isolated. Deep and intensely blue, their shores fringed 
with rock bowlders, and generally containing several islands, they do much to di- 
versify the monotony of the forest by their frequency and picturesque scenery." 
(Capt. Hardt.) 

The Liverpool road is rugged, and leads through a region of almost un- 
broken forests. Beyond Milford it runs S. E. down the valleys of the 
Boot Lake and Fisher's Lake, with dark forests and ragged clearings on 
either side. Maitland is a settlement of about 400 inhabitants, and a few 
miles beyond is Northfield, whence a forest-road leads S. W. 6 M. to the 
6* I 



130 Ecuti^:. LIYEKPOOL LAEXS. 

shore of Fairy Lake, or the Frozen Ocean, a beantiM island-stre-^vn sheet 
of water 4 M. long. 

The road now enters Broc-kndd. the centre of the new fanning settle- 
ments of the North District of Queen's Connty. Several roads diverge 
hence, and in the vicinity the lakes and tributaries of the Liverpool and 
Port Medway Rivers are curiously interlaced. 5-6 M. S. E. is ihe Alalaga 
Lal-e, which is 5 M. long and has several pretty islands. The road passes 
on to Greenjreld, a busy lumbering-village at the outlet of Port Medway 
Great Lake. This long-drawn-out sheet of water is also skirted by the 
other roadj which runs S. from Brookfield through Cahdtynia Corner 
(small inn"). The Ponhook Eoad is S. W. of Greenfield and runs down 
through the forest to the outlet of Ponliook Lake, '" the headquarters of 
the Micmacs and of all the salmon of the Liverpool Eiver." This Indian 
village is the place to get guides who are tireless and are famihar with 
every rod of the lake-district. From this point a canoe voyage of about 
8 M. across the Ponhook Lakes leads the voyager into the great * Lake 
Eossignol, which is 12 M. long by 8 M. wide, and affords one of the most 
picturesque sights in Kova Scotia. 

" A glorious -dew -was nnfolded as we left the run and entered the still -water of 
the lake. The breeze fell rapidly Tvith. the sun and enabled us to steer towards the 
centre, from -wliich alone the size of the lake could be appreciated, o^ving to the 
number of the islands. These -were of every imagtuabie shape and size, — from the 
grizzly rock bearing a soUtary stunted pine, shaggy -with Z'snea, to those of a mile 
in length, thickly wooded with maple, beech, and birches. . . . . Here and there a 
bright" spot of white sand formed a beach tempting for a disembai-kation ; and fre- 
quent sylvan scenes of an almost fairy-land character opened up as we coasted along 
the shores, — little harbors almost closed in from the lake, oTergrown with water- 
lilies, arrow-heads, and other aquatic plants, with mossy banks backed by bosky 
groves of hemlocks." (Capt. Hardy.) 

At the foot of Lake Eossignol is a wide oak-opening, with a fine greensward under 
groves of white oaks. Xear this point the Liverpoof Eiver flows out. passing several 
islets, and affording good trout-fishing. In and about this oak-opening was the 
chief village of the ancient Micmacs of "this region : and here are their nearly obht- 
erated burying-grounds. The site is now a fovorite resort for hunting and fishing 
parties. The name Ponhook means '• the first lake in a chain " : and the«e shores 
are one of the few districts of the vast domains of JMisguvidhghee, or " Micmac 
Land,"" that remain in the possession of the aborigines. From Ponhook 12 lakes 
may be entered by canoes without making a single portage. 

From Lake Eossignol the sportsman may visit the long chain of the 
Segum-Sega Lal'ts, entered from a sti-eam on the X. W. shore (several 
portages), and may thence ascend to the region of the Blue Mts. and into 
Shelbume County. The Indiaji Gardens may also be visited thence, af- 
fording many attractions for riflemen. The Micmacs of Ponhook are the 
best guides to the remoter parts of the forest. There are several gentle- 
men in the town of Liverpool who have traversed these pleasant solitudes, 
and they will aid fellow-sportsmen loyally. The Lidian village is only 
about 15 M. from Liverpool, by a road on the 1. bank of the river. 

Liverpool, see page 120. 



CHEZZETCOOK. Route 28. 131 

28. Halifax to Tangier. 

The Royal mail-stage leaves Halifax at 6 a. m. on Monday, "Wednesday, and Fri- 
day (returning tlie alternate days ) , for the villages along the Atlantic shore to the 
E. The conveyance is not good, and the roads are sometimes in bad condition, but 
there is pretty coast-scenery along the route. 

Distances. — Halifax; Dartmouth; Porter's Lake (Innis's), IG^a M. ; Chezzet- 
cook. Road (Ormon's), 18>^ ; Musquodoboit Harbor, 283^ ; Lakeville (Webber's), 40 ; 
Ship Harbor, 48; Tangier, 56 ; Sheet Harbor, 74 ; Beaver Harbor, 84. 

After leaving Dartmouth, the stage runs E. through a lake-strewn coun- 
try, and passes near the gold-mines of Montague. Beyond the Little 
Salmon Eiver it traverses Preston, with the gold-bearing district of 
Lawrencetown on the S. The mines and placer-washings at this point 
drew large and enthusiastic crowds of adventurers in 1861-62, but they 
are now nearly abandoned. The road rounds the N. end of Echo Lake 
and ascends a ridge beyond, after which it crosses the long and river-like 
expanse of Porter''s Lake, and runs through the post-village of the same 
name. 3-4 M. to the S. E. is ChezzetcooJc Harbor, with its long shores 
lined with settlements of the Acadian French, whereof Cozzens writes: — 

" But we are again in the Acadian forest ; let us enjoy the scenery. The road we 
are on is but a few miles from the sea-shoi-e, but the ocean is hidden from view by 
the thick woods. As we ride along, however, we skirt the edges of coves and inlets 
that frequently break in upon the landscape. There is a chain of fresh-water lakes 
also along this road. Sometimes we cross a bridge over a rushing torrent ; some- 
times a calm expanse of water, doubling the evergreens at its margin, comes into 
view ; anon a gleam of sapphire strikes through the verdure, and an ocean-bay with 
its shingly beach curves in and out between the piny slopes." 

Here " the water of the harbor has an intensity of color rarely seen, except in 
the pictures of the most ultramarine painters. Here and there a green is] and or a 
fishing-boat rested upon the surface of the tranquil blue. For miles and miles the 
eye followed indented grassy slopes that rolled away on either side of the harbor, 
and the most delicate pencil could scarcely portray the exquisite line of creamy sand 
that skirted their edges and melted off in the clear margin of the water. Occasional 
little cottages nestle among these green banks, — not the Acadian houses of the 
poem, 'with thatched roofs and dormer-windows projecting,' but comfortable, 

homely-looking buildings of modern shapes, shingled and un-weathercocked 

The women of Chezzetcook appear at daylight in the city of Halifax, and as soon as 
the sun is up vanish like the dew. They have usually a basket of fresh eggs, a brace 
or two of worsted socks, a bottle of fir balsam, to sell. These comprise their simple 
commerce." 

Chezzetcook was founded by the French in 1740, but was abandoned during the 
long subsequent wars. After the British conquest and pacification of Acadia, many 
of the old families returned to their former homes, and Chezzetcook was re-occupied 
by its early settlers. They formed an agricultural community, and grew rapidly 
in prosperity and in numbers. There are about 250 families now resident about the 
bay, preserving the names and language and many of the primitive customs of the 
Acadians of the Basin of Minas. (See pages 108 and 113. ) 

The road passes near the head of Chezzetcook Harbor, on the r., and 
then turns N. E. between the blue waters of Chezzetcook Great Lake ( 1.) 
and Pepiswick Lake (r.). The deep inlet of Musquodoioit Harbor is soon 
reached, and its head is crossed. This is the harbor where Capt. Hardy 
made his pen-picture of this romantic coast : — 

" Nothing can exceed the beauty of scenery in some of the Atlantic harbors of 
Nova Scotia, — their innumerable islands and heavily-wooded shores fringed with 



132 Route 28. TANGIER. 

the golden kelp, the wild undulating hills of maple rising in the background, the 
patches of meadow, and neat little white shanties of the iishermen's clearings, .... 
the fir woods of the western shores bathed in the morning sunbeams, the perfect 
reflection of the islands and of the Uttle fishing-schooners, the wreaths of blue 
smoke rising from their cabin stores, and the roar of the distant rapids, where the 
river joins the harbor, borne in cadence on the ear, mingled with the cheerful 
sounds of awakening life from the clearings. • ' 

Xear ]\Iusqiiodoboit are some valuable gold-mines, with two powerful 
quartz-crushing mills, and several moderately rich lodes of auriferous 
quartz. The stage soon reaches the W. arm oi J eddore Harbor, and then 
crosses the Le Marchant Bridge. The district of Jeddore has 1,623 in- 
habitants, most of whom ai-e engaged in the fisheries or the coasting trade, 
alternating these employments with lumbering and shipbuilding. A long 
tract of wilderness is now traversed, and Ship Harbor is reached. A few 
miles X. W. is the broad expanse of Ship Harbor Lake, reaching nearly 
to the Boar's Back Eidge, and having a length of 12-14 M. and a width 
of 2-4 ]\I. To the N. are the hills whence falls the Tangier River, to 
which the Indians gave the onomatopoetic name of Ahmagopakegeek, 
which signifies " tumbling over the rocks." The post-road now enters 
the once tamous gold-bearing district of Tangier. 

These mines were opened in 1S60, and speedily became widely renowned, attract- 
ing thousands of adventurers from all parts of the Atlantic coast. For miles the 
ground was honej"combed with pits and shafts, and the excited men worked with- 
out intermission. But the gold was not found in masses, and only patience and 
hard w-ork could extract a limited quantity from the quartz, so the crowd became 
discontented and went to the new fields. Lucrative shore-washings were engaged in 
for some time, and a stray nugget of Tangier gold weighing 27 ounces was shown in 
the Dubhn Exposition. This district covers about 30 square miles, and has 12 lodes 
of auriferous quartz. The South Lode is the most valuable, and appears to grow 
richer as it descends. The mines are now being worked by two small companies, 
and their average yield is § 400 - 500 per miner each year. 

Beyond Tangier and Pope's Bay the post-road passes the head of Spry 
Bay, and then the head of IMushaboon Harbor, and reaches Sheet Harbor 
(Farnal's Hotel). This is a small shipbuilding village, at the head of the 
long harbor of the same name, and is at the outlets of the Middle and 
Korth Rivers, famous for their fine salmon fisheries. 

From this point a road follows the shore to the N. E. to Sherbrooke, about 50 M. 
distant, passing the obscure maritime hamlets of Beaver Harbor, Necum Tench, 
Ekum Sekum, Marie Joseph, and Liscomb Harbor. The back-country on all this 
route is yet desolate and unsettled. There are so many islands off the shore that 
this portion of the Atlantic is called the Bay of Islands (old French, Bate de Toutes 
les Isles), although it is not embayed. 

Slierbrooke, see page 133. 



GUYSBOROUGH. Route 29. 133 



29. The Northeast Coast of Nova Scotia. 

This district is reached by passing on the Intercolonial Railway (see Routes 16 
and 17) from St. John or Halifax to New Glasgow, and thence taking the Royal 
mail-stage to Antigonish (see Route 32). 

From Antigonish a stage departs on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday 
mornings, running 40 M. S. (fare, $ 2) to Sherbrooke (two inns). Tliis is 
a village on the 1. bank of the St. Mary's Kiver, the largest river in Nova 
Scotia, and is at the head of navigation on that stream. It is engaged in 
shipbuilding and in the exportation of deals and lumber. The town de- 
rives considerable interest Irom the fact that in the vicinity is one of the 
broadest and most prolific gold-fields in the Province. Goldenville is 3 M. 
from Sherbrooke, by a road which crosses the St. Mary's on a long bridge. 
This district covers 18 square miles, and is the richest in the Province, 
having yielded as high as $2,000 per man per year, or about three times 
the average production of the best of the Australian mines. The aurifer- 
ous lodes are operated at Goldenville only, where there are several quartz- 
crushers on a large scale. These mines were discovered in 1861, and on 
the first day over $ 500 worth of gold Avas found here. Systematic mining 
operations were soon commenced, and the yield of the precious metal has 
since been very satisfactory. 

The Wine-Harbor Gold-field is several miles S. E. of Sherbrooke, near the mouth 
of the St. Mary's River. The average yield per ton is small, yet the breadth and 
continuity of the lodes renders the work easy and certain. This district is seamed 
with abandoned shafts and tunnels, one of which is 700 ft. long. The first discovery 
of gold was made in 1860 in the sands of the sea-shore, and the quartz lodes on the 
N. E. side of the harbor were soon opened. Of later years the Wine-Harbor district 
has greatly declined in popularity and productiveness. 

The Stormont Gold-fields are 38 M. N. E. of Sherbrooke, and are most easily 
reached by direct conveyance from Antigonish. Gold was discovered here by the 
Indians in 1861, and occurs in thick layers of quartz. Owing to its remoteness, 
this region has remained undeveloped, and its total yield in 1869 was but 227 ounces 
(1 4,-540). The chief village in the district is at the head of Country Harbor, a pic- 
turesque arm of the sea, 8 M. long and 2-3 M. wide. There are fine opportunities 
for shooting and fishing among the adjacent bays and highlands. All this shore 
was settled in 1783 - 4 by Loyalists from North and South Carolina. 

Guysborough and Cape Canso. 

Guysborough ( Grant's Hotel) is reached by daily mail-stages from An- 
tigonish, from which it is 31 M. distant (fare, $2.50). After leaving the 
valley of the South River, the road passes through a rough and hilly region, 
and descends through the Intei-vale Settlement and Manchester to Guys- 
borough, a marine village at the head of Chedabucto Bay. It has about 
1,500 inhabitants, with a prosperous academy, and is the capital of Guys- 
borough County (named in honor of Sir Guy Carleton). It is engaged in 
shipbuilding and the fisheries, and has a good and spacious harbor. The 
noble anchorage of Milford Haven lies between the town and the bay. 



131 Route 30. SABLE ISLAND. 

A strong post was established at Chedabucto, on the site of Guysborongh in 1636, 
bvM. Denys, who had spacious warehouses and a strong fort here, together with 
120 men. Here he received and supported the exiled children of D'Aulnay Char- 
nisay : and here also he was rainly besieged for sereral days by La Giraudiere and 
100 men from Canso. In 169t3 the works were held by I>e Montorgueuil. and were 
bravely defended against the attacks of the New-England army under sir Wdliam 
Phipps. Finally, when the buildings of the fort were all in flames about him, the 
gallant Prenchman surrendered, and was sent to Placentia with his soldiers. The 
ruins of the ancient fort are now to be traced near the mouth of the harbor. 

A bold ridge runs 31 ^I. E. from Guvsborough along the S. shore of Ched- 
abucto Bay to Cape Canso, the most easterly point of Xova Scotia. A 
road follows the course of the bay to the fishing-village of Cape Canso, 
-which has over 1,000 inhabitants and enjoys a profitable little export 
trade. Several islands lie ofi" this extreme point of Xova Scotia, one of 
which bears two powerful white lights and a fog-whistle. Canso Harbor 
is marked by a fixed red light which is visible for 12 M. 

TThite Haven is on the S. side of the great i)eninsnla of Wilmot, 3i) M. from 
Guysborough, and is a small fishing settlement situated on one of the finest bays on 
the American coast. It was originally intended to have the Intercolonial Railway 
terminate here, and connect with the transatlantic steamships. The harbor is easy 
of access, of capacious breadth, and free from ice in winter. Its E. point is White 
Head, usually the first land seen by vessels crossing from Europe in this upper lati- 
tude, on which is a fixed white light. Just W . i ^Vhite Haven is the fishermen's 
hamlet of Molasses Harbor, near the broad bight of Tor Bay. 

30. Sable Island. 

The Eiitor inserts the following sketch of this remotest outpost of the Maritime 
Provinces, hoping that its quaint character may make amends for its uselessness to 
the summer tourist. It may also be of service to voyagers on these coasts who should 
chance to be cast away on the island, since no one likes to be landed suddenly in a 
strange country without having some previous knowledge of the reception he may 
get. 

A regular line of communication has recently been established between Sable 
Island and Halifax. The boats run once a year, and are chartered by the Canadian 
government to carry provisions and stores to the hghthouse people and patrols, 
and to bring back the persons who may have been wrecked there during the pre- 
vious year. 

Sable Island is about 90 M. S. E. of Cape Canso. It is a barren ex- 
panse of sand, without trees or thickets, and is constantly swept by stonns, 
under whose powerful pressure the whole aspect of the land changes, by 
the shifting of the low dunes. The only products of this arid shore are 
cranberries, immense quantities of which are found on the lowlands. 

" Should any one be visiting the island now, he might see, about 10 M. distance, 
looking seaward, half a dozen low dark hummocks on the horizon. As he ap- 
proaches , they gradually resolve themselves into hills fringed by breakers, and by 
and by the white sea-beach with its continued surf, — the sand-hills, part naked, 
part waving in grass of the deepest green, unfold themselves, — a house and a barn 
dot the western extremity, — here and there along the wild beach lie the ribs of un- 
lucky traders half buried in the shifting sand Nearly the first thing the vis- 
itor does is to mount the flag-staff, and, climbing into the crow's-nest, scan the scene. 
The ocean bounds him everywhere. Spread east and west, he views the narrow 
island in form of a bow, as if the great Atlantic waves had bent it around, nowhere 
much above I M. wide, 26 M. long, including the dry bars, and holding a shallow 
lake 13 M. long in its centre. There it aU. hes spread like a map at his feet, — grassy 



SABLE ISLAND. Route 30. 135 

hill and sandy valley fading away into the distance. On the foreground the outpost 
men galloping their rough ponies into headquarters, recalled by the flag flying oyer 
his head; the West-end house of refuge, with bread and matches, firewood and 
kettle, and directions to find water, and headquarters with flag-staff on the adjoin- 
ing hill. Every sand\' peak or grassy knoll with a dead man"s name or old ship's 
tradition, — Baker's Hill, Trott's Cove, Scotchman's Head, French Gardens, — tra- 
ditionary spot where the poor convicts expiated their social crimes, — the little 
burial-ground nesthng in the long grass of a high hill, and consecrated to the re- 
pose of many a sea-tossed limb ; and 2-3 M. down the shallow lake, the South-side 
house and barn, and staff and boats lying on the lake beside the door. 9 M. farther 
down, by the aid of a glass, he may view the flag-staff at the foot of the lake, and 5 
M. farther the East-end lookout, with its staff and watch-house. Herds of wild 
ponies dot the hills, and black-duck and sheldrakes are heading their young broods 
on the mirror-like ponds. Seals innumerable are basking on the warm sands, or 
piled like ledges of rock along the shores. The Glasgow's bow, the Maskonemet''s 
stern, the East Boston''s hulk, and the grinning ribs of the well-fastened Guide, are 
spotting the sands, each with its tale of last adventure, hardships passed, and toil 
endured. The whole picture is set in a silver-frosted frame of rolhng surf and sea- 
ribbed sand." 

"Mounted upon his hardy pony, the solitary patrol starts upon his lonely way. 
He rides up the centre valleys, ever and anon mounting a grassy hill to look sea- 
ward, reaches the West-end bar, speculates upon perchance a broken spar, an empty 
bottle, or a cask of beef struggling in the land-wash, — now fords the shallow lake, 
looking well for his land-range, to escape the hole where Baker was drowned ; and 
coming on the breeding-ground of the countless birds, his pony's hoof v.'ith a reck- 
less smash goes crunching through a dozen eggs or callow young. He fairly puts 
his pony to her mettle to escape the cloud of angry birds which, arising in countless 
numbers, dent his weather-beaten tai-pauhn with their sharp bills, and snap his 
pony's ears, and confuse Mm with their sharp, shrill cries. Ten minutes more, and 
he is holding hard to count the seals. There they lay, old ocean's flocks, resting 
their wave -tossed hmbs, — great ocean bulls, and cows, and calves." (Dr. J. B. 
Gilpin. ) 

For over a century Sable Island has been famous for its wild horses. They num- 
ber perhaps 400, and are divided into gangs which are under the leadership of the 
old males. They resemble the Mexican or Ukraine wild horses, in their large heads, 
shaggy necks, sloping quarters, paddhng gait, and chestnut or piebald colors. Once 
a year the droves are all her led by daring horsemen into a large pound, where 20 or 30 
of the best are taken out to be sent to Nova Scotia. After the horses chosen for ex- 
portation are lassoed and secured, the remainder are turned loose again. 



Since Sable Island was first sighted by Cabot, in 1497, it has been an object of 
terror to mariners. Several vessels of D'Anville's French Armada were lost here ; 
and among the many wi-ecks in later days, the chief have been those of the ocean 
steamship Georgia and the French frigate V Africaine. 

In the year 1583, when Sir Humphrey Gilbert was returning from Newfoundland 
(of which he had taken possession in the name of the EngUsh Crown), his little fleet 
became entangled among the shoals about Sable Island. On one of these outlying 
bars the ship Delight struck heavily and dashed her stern and quarters to pieces. 
The officers and over 100 men were lost, and 14 of the crew, after drifting about in a 
pinnace for many days, were finally rescued. The other vessels, the Squirrel and the 
Golden Hind, bore off to sea and set their course for England. But when off the 
Azores the Squirrel was sorely tossed by a tempest (being of only 10 tons' burden), 
and upon her deck was seen Sir Humphrey Gilbert reading a book. As she swept 
past the Golden Hind, the brave knight cried out to the captain of the latter : 
" Courage, my lads, we are as near heaven by sea as by land." About midnight the 
Squirrel plunged heavily forward into the trough of the sea, and went down with 
all on board. Thus perished this " resolute soldier of Jesus Christ, .... one of the 
noblest and best of men in an age of great men." 

In 1508 a futile attempt at colonizing Sable Island was made by " Le Sieur Baron 
de Leri et de St. Just, Vicmte de Gueu." But he left some live-stock here that 
afterwards saved many lives. 

In the year 1598 the Marquis de la Roche was sent by Henri TV. to America, car- 
rying 200 convicts from the French prisons. He determined to found a settlement 



136 BoutcSI. XEW GLASGOW. 

on Sable Island, and left iO of Ms men tliere to commence the work. Soon after, 
Pe la Koche was forced by stress of storm to return to France, abandoning these 
iinfortituate colonists. \Vithout food, clothing, or wood, they suffered intensely, 
until partial relief was brought by the wrecking of a French ship on the island. For 
seven years they dwelt in huts built of wrecked timber, di-essed in seal-skins, and 
living on fish. Then King Henri IV. sent oiit a ship under Chedotel, and the 12 
survivors, g-aunt, squalid, and long-bearded, were carried back to France, where they 
were pardoned and rewarded. 

An attempt was made about the middle of the 16th century to colonize Cape Bre- 
ton in the interests of Spain, but the fleet that was ti-ausportiug the Spaniards and 
their property was dashed to pieces on Sable Island. 

31. St. John and Halifax to Pictou. 

By the Pictou Branch Railway, which diverges from the Intercolonial Eailwav at 
Trui-o. 

Stations. — St. John to Pictou. St. John to Truro, 215 M. : Tallev, 219 ; 
Union, ±Ii : Eiversdale, 228; West River, 236; Glengarry, 243; Hopewell, 250; 
Stellarcon. 255 ; New Glasgow, 258 ; Pictou Landing, 266 ; Steamboat Wharf, 267. 

Stations. — Halifax to Pictou. Halifax to Truro, 61 M. ; Tallev, 65 ; Union, 
70 ; Kiversdale, 74 ; SVest River, 82 ; Glengarry, 89 : Hopewell. 96 ; Stellartou, 101 ; 
New Glasgow, 104 ; Pictou Landing, 112 ; Steamboat Wharf, ll3. 

St. Johu to Truro, see Routes 16 and 17. 

Halitax to Truro, see Eoute 17 (i-eversed). 

The ti-ain runs E. from Truro, and soon after leaving the envh'ons, enters 
a comparatively broken and uninteresting region. On the 1. are the roll- 
ing foot-hills of the Cobequid Eange, and the valley of the Salmon Eiver 
is followed by several insignificant forest stations. Jiiversdale is surrounded 
by a pleasant diversity of hill-scenery, and has a spool-factory and a con- 
siderable lumber trade. 14 ^I. to the N. is the thriving Scottish settlement 
of £arltoicn. Beyond "West Eiver the train reaches Glengarry^ -u-hich is 
the station for the Scottish villages of New Lairg and Gairloch. Hopewtll 
(Hopewell Hotel) has small woollen and spool factories; and a short dis- 
tance beyond the line approaches the banks of the East River, 

SttUa}'ton is the station for the great Albion Mines, which are con- 
trolled (for the most part) by the General Mining Association, of London. 
There is a populous village here, most of whose inhabitants are connected 
with the mines. The coal-seams extend over several miles of area, and 
are of remarkable thickness. They are being worked in several pits, and 
would doubtless retiirn a great revenue in case of the removal of the re- 
strictive trade regulations of the United States. In the year 1864 over 
200,000 tons of coal were raised from these mines. 

New Glasgow (three inns) is a town of 2,500 inhabitants, largely en- 
gaged in shipbuilding and having other manufactures, including foimdries 
and tanneries. It is favorably situated on the East Eiver, and derives 
considerable importance from being the point of departure for the Eoyal 
mail-stages for Antigonish, the Strait of Canso, and Cape Breton; also for 
Guysborough, Wine Harbor, and Sherbrooke. 

The train now descends by the East Eiver to Fisher's Grant, opposite 
the town of Pictou, to which the passengers are conveyed by a steam 



PICTOU. Uoute 31. 137 

ferry-boat. If the traveller is about to take the steamship he must remain 
on the train, which runs down 1 M. farther to her whai'f. 

Pictou {St. Laiorence Hall) is a wealthy and flourishing town on the 
Gulf shore of Nova Scotia. It has about 3,500 inhabitants, with several 
churches, a masonic hall, and a weekly paper. The public buildings of 
Pictou County are also located here, and the academj^ is the chief educa- 
tional establishment. The harbor is the finest on the S. shores of the Gulf 
of St. Lawrence, and can accommodate ships of any burden, havino- a 
depth of 5-7 fathoms. The town occupies a commanding position on a 
hillside over a small cove on the N. side of the harbor, and nearly oppo- 
site, the basin is divided into three arms, into which flow the East, Middle, 
and West Rivers. On the East River are the shipping whar^^es of the 
Albion and the International Coal Companies, Avhence immense quantities 
of coal Avere exported in the palmy daj^s before the United States punished 
Canada for aiding her rebel States, by repealing the Reciprocity Treaty. 

Pictou has a large coasting trade ; is engaged in shipbuilding; and has 
a marine-railway. It has also tobacco-factories, carding-mills, several 
saw and grist mills, a foundry, and three or four tanneries. But the chief 
business is connected with the adjacent mines and the exportation of coal, 
and with, the large freestone quarries in the vicinity. 

Stages leave Pictou several times weekly, for River John, Tatamagouche, Wallace, 
Pugwash, and Amherst (see page 81). Steamships leave (opposite) Pictou for Char- 
lottetown, Summerside, and Shediac, on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, on the 
arrival of the Halifax train (see Route 44) ; also for the Gulf ports and Quebec, every 
Tuesday at 7 a. m. , and alternate Fridays at 1 p. m. (see Route 63) ; also for Port Hood 
and the Magdalen Islands (see Route 49) ; and for Hawkesbury and the Strait of 
Canso. 

After the divine Glooscap (see page 108) had left Newfoundland, where he conferred 
upon the loons the power of weirdly crying when they needed his aid, he landed at 
Pictou (from Piktook, an Indian word meaning " Bubbling," or " Gas-exploding " 
and referred to the ebullitions of the water near the great coal-beds). Here he 
created the tortoise tribe, in this wise : Great festivals and games were made in his 
honor by the Indians of Pictook,but he chose to dwell with a homely, lazy and 
despised old bachelor named Mikchickh, whom, after clothing in his own' robe' and 
giving him victory in the games, he initiated as the progenitor and kmg of all the 
tortoises, smoking him till his coat became brown and as hard as bone, and then re- 
ducing his size by a rude surgical operation. 

The site of Pictou was occupied in ancient times by a populous Indian village, 
and in 1763 the French made futile preparations to found a colony here. In 1765, 
200,000 acres of land in this vicinity were granted to a company'in Philadelphia, 
whence bands of settlers came in 1767 - 71. Meantime the site of the town had been 
given to an army officer, who in turn sold it for a horse and saddle. The Pennsyl- 
vanians were disheartened at the severity of the climate and the infertility of the 
soil, and no progress was made in the new colony until 1773, when the ship Hector 
arrived with ISO persons from the Scottish Highlands. They were brought over by 
the Philadelphia company, but when they found that the shore lands were ail 
taken, they refused to settle on the company's territory, and hence the agent cut 
off their supply of provisions. They subsisted on fish and venison, with a little 
flour from Truro, until the next spring, when they sent a ship-load of pine-timber 
to Britain, and planted wheat and potatoes. Soon afterwards they were joined by 
15 destitute families from Dumfriesshire ; and at the close of the Revolutionary War 
many disbanded soldiers settled here with their families. In 1786 the Rev. James 
McGregor came to Pictou and made a home, and as he was a powerful preacher in 



13S HotiteSS. AXTIGOXISH. 

the Gaelic Iv^ngiiap?. many Highlanders frcan the other parts of the TroTinco mored 
here, and new inmuirrations arriYe<,i fivm Scotland. In 17SS the town was com- 
mencovi on its pn^sent site by IVacon Patterson, and in 171*2 it w?»s made a shire- 
town. GK>at quantities of lumber were exportoii to Britain Ivtween ISOo and 1S20, 
durinsr the period of European couTulsion, when the Baltic ports were closed, and 
while the British nary w^is the main hope of the nation. The place was capturtxi in 
ITi I by an American privatcr^r. Coal Avas discovered here in ITV^S. but the exporta- 
tion was small until 1S27, when the General Mining Association of London begsm 
operations. 

J. W. Dawson. LL. P. . F. K. S.. was born at Pictou in 1$*20. and graduated at the 
ruiversity of IkUnburgh in 1S40. He studied and travelled with Sir Charles Lyell, 
and has become one of the leadei-s among the Christian scientists. His greatest work 
wss the " Acadian Goolog,v." For the past 20 years he has been Principal of the 
McGill College, at ilonti^. 

32. St John and Halifax to the Strait of Canso and Cape 
Breton. 

Bi/ tkc iray of the land, tlinntgh Antiponi:^. 

(Compare also page r2.') The Koyal mail-stj\ge leaves New Glasgow (see page 136) 
daily, on arrival of the morning train from Halifax, — at about 1230 P.M., — and 
runs E. to the Strait of Canso^ connecting with other stages for Sherbrooke, Guys- 
borough, and all ptrts of Cajv Bivton. 'This route is servevi by a hne of stage- 
coaches which aiv said to N? '* second to none on the continent." though these ex- 
cellent convej-ances are exchangevl at Antigonish for less comfortable vehicles. 
Passengers take supper at Antigonish. ride on all night, and ivach the Strait of 
Canso before dawn. Gtmtlemen who arv plannitig a sunmier trip will see that this 
mode of travel is utterly imsnitcd for an element in a pleasure- tour, and that it is 
n«»rly impracticable for ladies, at least, to endure stich a night-journey. The at- 
tractions and discomforts of this route are admirably drawn in Charles Dudley War- 
ner's •• R<iddeck : and that Sort of Thing '" ^Chapter III.). 

Fares. — Halifivx to Antigonish, 85; Guysborough, S6; Port Hawkesbury, 
8 7 25 vcxolusive of ferriage acr.^ss the Strait of Canso) TSt. Peter's, $ 9^25 : Sydnev, 
8 12. - 

Distances. — Xew Glasgow to French River, 15 M. : Marshy Hope, 25 ; Antigo- 
nish. So; Tracadie, 5S : Port Mulirrave, 74:; Port Hawkesburv , 75|^; St. Peter's, 
Hi : Sydney, 179. - 

Oa reaching the open ooiiutrv beyond Xew Ghisgo-w, the road passes on 
for several miles throngh an iininrerestuig region of small larms and recent 
cleiiriugs. At the crossing of the Sutherland Elver, a road diverges to the 
X. E.. leading to MtngoHiish, a shipbuilding hamlet on the coast, with a safe 
and well-sheltered harbor. In this vicinity are iron and coal deposits, the 
latter of which are worked by the Merigomish Coal Mining Company, with 
a capital of $ 400,000. Beyond the hamlet at the crossing of French Eiver, 
— •• which may have seen better days, and will probably see worse," — 
the road ascends a long ridge which overlooks the Piedmont Valley to the 
X. E. Thence it descends through a sufficiently drears* country to the 
relay-house at Jfar^it/ ffope. 

'• The ?\iu has set when we come thtmdering down into the pretty Catholic village 
of Aiitisronisli, the most home-like place we have seen on the island. The twin 
stone towers of the unfinished cathedral loom tip l:\rge in the fiiding light, and the 
bishop's palace on the hill, the home of the Bishop of Arichat, appears to be an im- 
posing white barn with many staring windows People were loitering in the 

street ; the young beaux going np and down with the belles, after the leisurely 
manner in youth and summer. Perhaps they were students from St. Xavier Col- 



ANTIGONISH. Route 32. 139 

lege, or Tisitinj? gallants from Guysborough. They look into the post-office and the 
fancy store. They stroll and take their Uttle provincial pleasure, and make love 
for all we can see, as if Antigonish were a part of the world. How they must look 
down on Marshy Hope and Addington Forks and Tracadie ! What a charming nlace 
to live in is this ! " (Baddeck.) 

Antigonish 1 (two good inns), the capital of the county of the same 
name, is situated at the head of a long and shoal harbor, near St. 
George's Bay. Some shipbuilding is done here, and many cargoes of 
cattle and butter are sent hence to Newfoundland. On the E. shore of the 
harbor are valuable deposits of gypsum, which are sent away on coasting- 
vessels. The inhabitants of the village and the adjacent country are of 
Scottish descent, and their unwavering industiy has made Antigonish a 
prosperous and pleasant town. The College of St. Francis Xavier is the 
Diocesan Seminary of the Franco-Scottish Diocese of Arichat, and is the 
residence of the Bishop. It is a Catholic institution, and has six teachers. 
The Cathedral of St. Ninian was begun in 1867, and was consecrated Sep- 
tember 13, 1874, by a Pontifical High Mass, at which 7 bishops and 30 
priests assisted. It is in the Eoman Basilica stjde, 170 by 70 ft. in area 
and is built of blue limestone and brick. On the fa9ade, between the tall 
square towers, is the Gaelic inscription, Tighe Dhe ("the House of God"). 
The arched roof is supported by 14 Corinthian columns, and the interior 
has numerous windows of stained glass. The costly chancel-window rep- 
resents Christ, the Virgin Mary, and St. Joseph. There is a large organ, 
and also a chime of bells named in honor of St. Joseph and the Scottish 
saints, Ninian, Columba, and Margaret, Queen of Scotland. 

Stages run from Antigonish S. to Sherbrooke and S. E. to Guysborough (see 
Route 29). N, W. of the village are the bold and picturesque highlands known as 
the Aiitigonisli Mts., projecting from the general line of the coast about 15 M. 
N. into the Gulf. They are, in some places, 1,000 ft. high, and have a strong and 
well-marked mountainous character. Semi-weekly stages run N. from Antigonish 
to Morristown and Cape George, respectively 10 and 18 M. distant. 8-10 M N of 
the latter is the bold promontory of Cape St. George, on whioh, 400 ft. above 
the sea, is a powerful revolving white light, which is visible for 25 M. at sea From 
this point a road runs S. W. to Malignant Cove, which is also acces.sible by a roman- 
tic road through the hills from Antigonish. This is a small seaside hamlet which 
derives its name from the fact that H. B. M. frigate Malignant was once caught in 
these narrow waters during a heavy storm, and was run ashore here in order to 
avoid being dashed to pieces on the iron-bound coast beyond. 4-5 M beyond the 
Cove is Arisaig, a romantically situated settlement of Scottish Catholics who 
named their new home in memory of Arisaig, in the Western Highlands. It'has a 
long wooden pier, under whose lee is the only harbor and shelter against east-winds 
between Antigonish and Merigonish, 

The Canso stage leaves Antigonish after dark, and after running 9 M. 
out and crossing the South River, reaches Pomquet Fo7'ks, a Franco- 
Scottish Catholic village of 400 inhabitants. 4-5 M. N. is another seaside 
hamlet. The new Catholic Church of the Holy Cross was consecrated at 
Pomquet in 1874. The next station is Tracadie, a French village of 1,800 
inhabitants, situated on a small harbor near St. George's Bay. There is a 
^.l^^nhgronfsA,— accent on the last syHable. It is an Indian word, meaning "the Eiver of 



liO Route 32. TKACADIE. 

^vealthy monastery here, pertaining to the austere order of the Trappists. 
ilost of the monks are from Belgium. There is also a Convent of Sisters 
of Charity. The people of Tracadie belong to the old Acadian race, whose 
sad and romantic history is alluded to on pages 108 and 113. "And now 
Tve passed through another French settlement, Tracadie, and again the 
Norman kirtle and petticoat of the pastoral, black-eyed Evangeline ap- 
pear, and then pass like a day-dream." (CozzExs.) 

The road is now narrowed between the hills and St. George's Bay, and 
it is beyond midnight. But the exhausted traveller cannot sleep on this 
rugged track, and can onl}" watch the stars or the moon and think how 
"these splendors burn and this panorama passes night after night down 
at the end of Xova Scotia, and all for the stage-driver, dozing along on his 
box, from Antigonish to the Strait." 

At Port Mulgrave the Strait of Canso is reached, and passengers bound 
for Cape Breton are here ferried across. 

The Strait of Canso, see page 142. 



CAPE BEETON. 



The island of Cape Breton is about 100 ]\I. long by 80 M. wide, and has 
an area of 2,000,000 acres, of which 800,000 acres consist of lakes and 
swamps. The S. part is low and generalh^ level, but the N. portion is 
very irregular, and leads off into unexplored highlands. The chief natural 
peculiarities of the island are the Sydney coal-fields, which cover 250 
square miles on the E. coast, and the Bras d'Or, a' great lake of salt water, 
ramifying through the centre of the island, and communicating with the 
sea by narrow channels. The exterior coast line is 275 M. long, and is 
provided with good harbors on the E. and S. shores. 

The chief exports of Cape Breton are coal and fish, to the United States; 
timber, to England; and faiTn-produce and live-stock to Xewfoundland. 
The commanding position of the island makes it the key to the Canadas, 
and the naval power holding these shores could control or crush the com- 
merce of the Gulf. The upland soils are of good quality, and produce 
valuable crops of cereals, potatoes, and smaller A'egetables. 

The Editor trusts that the following extract from Brown's " History of 
the Island of Cape Breton" (London : 1869) will be of interest to the 
tourist : " The summers of Cape Breton, say from May to October, may 
challenge comparison .with those of any country within the temperate 
regions of the world. During all that time there are perhaps not more 
than ten foggy days in any part of the island, except along the southern 
coast, between the Gut of Canso and Scatari. Bright sunny days, with 
balmy westerly winds, follow each other in succession, week after week, 
while the midday heats are often tempered by cool, refreshing sea-breezes. 
Of rain there is seldom enough; the growing crops more often sufier from 
too little than too much." 

" To the tourist that loves nature, and Avho, for the manifold beauties by 
hill and shore, by woods and waters, is happy to make small sacrifices of 
personal comfort, I would commend Cape Breton. Your fashionable, 
whose main object is company, dress, and frivolous pleasure with the gay, 
and whose only tolerable stopping-place is the grand hotel, had better 
content himself with reading of this island." (Noble. ) 

The name of the island is derived from that of its E. cape, which was 
given in honor of its discovery by Breton mariners. In 1713 the French 
authorities bestowed upon it the new name of L'lsh Boyale, during the 



112 Houte 33. THE STEAIT OF CAXSO. 

reign of Louis XIV. At this time, after the cession of Acadia to the Brit- 
ish Crown, many of its inhabitants emigrated to Cape Breton ; and in 
August, 1714, the fortress of Louisbourg was founded. During the next 
half-century occurred the terrible wars between France and Great Britain, 
whose chief incidents were the sieges of Louisbourg and the final demoli- 
tion of that redoubtable fortress. In 1765 this island was annexed to the 
Province of Xova Scotia. In 1784 it was erected into a separate Province, 
and continued as such until 1S20, when it was reannexed to Xova Scotia. 
In 1S15 Cape Breton had about 10,000 inhabitants, but in 1871 its popula- 
tion amounted to 75,503, a large proportion of whom were from the Scot- 
tish Highlands. 

33. The Strait of Canso. 

The Gut of Canso, or (as it is now more generally called) the Strait of 
Canso, is a picturesque passage which connects the Atlantic Ocean with 
the Gulf of St. Lawi-ence, and separates the island of Cape Breton from 
the shores of Xova Scotia. The banks are high and mountainous, covered 
with spruce and other evergreens, and a succession of small white ham- 
lets lines the coves on either side. This grand avenue of commerce 
seems worthy of its poetic appellation of " The Golden Gate of the St. 
La-wi-euce Gulf." It is claimed that more keels pass through this channel 
every year than through any other in the world except the Strait of Gib- 
raltar. It is not only the shortest passage between the Atlantic and the 
Gulf, but has the advantage of anchorage in case of conti-ary winds and bad 
weather. The shores are bold-to and free from dangers, and there are sev- 
eral good anchorages, out of the current and in a moderate depth of water. 
The stream of the tide usually sets from the S., and runs in gi-eat swirling 
eddies, but is much influenced by the winds. The strait is described by 
Dawson as "a narrow transverse valley, excavated by the currents of the 
drift period," and portions of its shores are of the carboniferous epoch. 

The Strait of Canso is traversed by several thousand sailing-vessels every year, and 
also by the l:u-ge steamers of the Boston and Colonial Steamship Company, and (as 
far as Port Hawkesbury) by the vessels of the P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company. 

'' So Tvith renewed anticipations -we ride on to^vard the strait ' of imrivalled 
beauty," that travellers say ' surpasses anything in America." And, indeed, Canseau 
can have my feeble testimony in confirmation. " It is a grand marine highway, hav- 
ing steep hills on the Cape Breton Island side, and lofty mountains on the other 
shore : a full, broad, mile-wide space between them ; and reaching, from end to end, 
fifteen miles, from the Atlantic to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. "" (CozzE>"S.) 

Vessels from the S., bound for the Strait of Canso, first approach the 
Xova-Scotian shores near Cape Canso (see page 134), whose lights and 
islands are rounded, and the course lies between X. W. and "W. X. "W. 
towards Eddy Point. If a fog prevails, the steam-whistle on Cranberry 
Island will be heard giving out its notes of warning, sounding for S seconds 
in each minute, and heard for 20 M. with the wind, for 15 M. in calm 



PORT HASTINGS. Route 33. 143 

weather, and 5 - 8 M. in stormy weather and against the wind. On the 1. 
is Chedabucto Bay, stretching in to Guj^sborough, lined along its S. shore 
by hills 3-700 ft. high; and on the r. the Isle Madame is soon approached. 
28-30 M. beyond Cape Canso the vessel passes Eddy Point, on Avhich are 
two fixed white lights (visible 8 M.)- On the starboard beam is Janvriu 
Island, beyond which is the broad estuary of Habitants Bay. On the 
Cape-Breton shore is the hamlet of Bear Point, and on the 1. are Melford 
Creek (with its church), Steep Creek, and Pirate's Cove. The hamlets of 
Port Mulgrave and Port Hawkesbury are now seen, nearly opposite each 
other, and half-way up the strait. 

Port Mulgrave (two inns) is a village of about 400 inhabitants, on the 
Nova-Scotia side of the strait. It is engaged in the fisheries, and has a 
harbor which remains open all the year round. Gold-bearing quartz is 
found in the vicinity; and bold hills tower above the shore for a long dis- 
tance. A steam ferry-boat plies between this point and Port Hawkesbury, 
1^ M. distant. 

Port Hawkesbury {Hawkesbury Hotel, comfortable; Acadia Hotel) is a 
village of about 700 inhabitants, on the Cape-Breton side of the strait. It 
is situated on Ship Harbor, a snug haven for vessels of 10-ft. draught, 
marked by a fixed red light on Stapleton Point. This is the best harbor 
on the strait, and has very good holding-ground. The village is of a scat- 
tered and half-finished appearance, and has two small churches. There 
are several Avharves here, which are visited by the Boston and the Prince 
Edward Island steamers, and other lines. Stages run hence to Sydney, 
Arichat, and West Bay, on the Bras d'Or; and a railway has been sur- 
veyed to the latter point. The fare from Port Hawkesbury to Charlotte- 
town, by the vessels of the P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company, is $3.50. 

Port Hastings (more generally known as Plaster Cove) is about 4 M. 
above Port Hawkesbury, on the Cape-Breton shore, and is built on the 
bluffs over a small harbor in which is a Government wharf. From this 
point the Cape-Breton mails are distributed through the island by means 
of the stage-lines. The village is about the size of Port Hawkesbury, and 
has a lucrative country-trade, besides a large exportation of fish and cat- 
tle to Newfoundland and the United States. It derives its chief interest 
from being the point where the Atlantic-Cable Company transfers its mes- 
sages, received from all parts of Europe and delivered under the sea, to 
the Western Union Telegraph Company, by which the tidings are sent 
away through the Dominion and the United States. The telegraph-ofiice 
is in a long two-story building near the strait, and 20 - 30 men are em- 
ployed therein. The hotel at this village has been justly execrated in sev- 
eral books of travel, but occupies a noble situation, overlooking, from a 
high bluflf, the Strait of Canso for several miles to the S. E. Near this 
building is the consulate of the United States, over which floats the flag 
of the Eepublic. 



152 Route 37. THE SYDNEY COAL-FIELDS. 

Totiiisque Americce Septentrionalis Bomina, Fidei Defensor, etc. In Cujus hanim 
insulanim vitlgo Cape Breton, Prcprietatis et Dominii Testimonium, Hoc Erexit 
Monmnentum, Sues Majestatis Servus, et Subditus Jidelissimiis, D. Hovenden 
Walker, Egues Auratiis, Omnium in America Naviujn Regalium, Prcefectits et 
Thalassiarcha. Blonte Septembris, Anno Salutis'bniQQ'Si:- 

The first civil governor of Cape Breton after its severance from Nova Scotia (1784) 
•was Major Desbarres, a veteran of the campaigns of the Moha-svk Valley, Lake George, 
Ticonderoga, Lomsbourg, and Quebec. One of his chief steps -svas to select a site for 
the new capital of the island, and the location chosen was the peninsula on the S. 
arm of the capacious harbor caUed Spanish River. The seat of government thus 
estabUshed was named Sydney, in honor of Lord Sydney, Secretaiw of State for the 
Colonies, who had erected Cape Breton into a separate Province, 'in the spring of 
1785 the Loyalists under Abraham Cuyler (ex-Mayor of Albany, N. T.) came from 
Louisbourg to Sydney, cut down the forests, and erected buildings. 

In 1781 a sharp naval battle was fought off Sydney Harbor, between the French 
frigates VAstiee and L'Hermwne (of 44 guns each) and a British squadron consist- 
ing of the Charlestoicn, 28, Allegiance, 16, Vulture, 16, Little Jack, 6, and the armed 
transport Vernon. 16 coal-ships which were under convoy of the British fleet fled 
into Sydney harbor, whUe the frigates rapidly overhauled the escort and brought on 
a general engagement. After a long and stubborn action, the Little Jhc^- surren- 
dered, and the remainder of the fleet would have shared the same fate, had it not 
been for the approach of night, under whose shelter the shattered British vessels 
bore away to the eastward and escaped. They had lost 18 men killed and 28 
"wounded. The senior captain of the victorious French vessels was La Perouse, who 
started in 1788, with two frigates, on a voyage of discovery around the world, but 
was lost, with all his equipage, on the Isle" of Yanikoro. 



37. The East Coast of Cape Breton.— The Sydney Coal- 
Fields. 

The Sydney Mines are on the N. side of Sydney Harbor, and are con- 
nected -with N. Sydney by a coal-railway and also by a daily stage (fare, 
75c.). They are on the level land included between the Little Bras d'Or 
and the harbor of Sydney, and are worked by the General Mining Asso- 
ciation of London. Nearly 500 men are employed in the pits, and the vil- 
lage has a population of 2,500. 

The International Mines are at Bridgeport, 13 M. N. E. of Sydney, and 
are connected with that harbor by a railway that cost $ 500,000. The sen- 
shore is here lined with rich coal-deposits, extending from Lingan Harbor 
to Sydney. It is probable that the submarine mining, which has already 
been commenced, will follow the carboniferous sti-ata far beneath the sea. 

The Victoria Mines are "W. of this disti-ict, and near Low Point, 9 ^l. 
from Sydney, The company has a railway which extends to their freight- 
ing station on S^-dney Harbor, and is at present doing a prosperous busi- 
ness. 

The Lingan Mines are near Bridgeport, and are reached by a tri-weekly 
stage from Sydney (15 M. ; fare, 31-50). Lingan is derived from the 
French word LTndiemie, applying to the same place. It was occupied 
and fortified by the British early in the ISth century, and a garrison of 
50 men was stationed here to guard the coal-mines. At a later day the 
French army at Louisbourg was supplied with large quantities of coal 
from this point, and several cargoes were sent away. During the summer 



THE SYDNEY COAL-FIELDS. Route 37. 153 

of 1752 the mine was set on fire, and the fort and buildings were all 
destroyed. 

The Little Glace Bay Mines are 18 M. from Sydney, and ai*e reached 
by a tri-weekly stage (fare, $1). They are situated on Glace Bay and 
Glace Cove, and about Table Head, and are carried on by a Halifax com- 
pany, which employs 300 miners. The deposits are very rich along this 
shore, and extend far out beneath the sea. 

The Gowrie and Block-House Mines are on Cow Bay, and are among the 
most extensive on this coast. They are 22 M. from Sydney, and are 
reached by a tri-weekly stage. They employ over 600 men, and have 
formed a town of 2,000 inhabitants. Large fleets gather in the bay for 
the transportation of the coal to the S., and while lying here are in con- 
siderable peril during the prevalence of easterly gales, which have a full 
sweep into the roadstead. Nearly 70 vessels were wrecked here durino- 
the Lord's-Daj^ Gale, and the shores were strewn with broken hulks and 
many yet sadder relics of disaster. The S. portal of the bay is Cape 
Morien, and on the N. is Cape Perry, off which is the sea-surrounded Flint 
Island, bearing a revolving white light. 

The coal-beds of Cape Breton were first described by Denys, in 1672 , and from 
1677 to 1690 he had a royalty of 20 sous per ton on all the coal that was exported. 
Some of it was taken to France, and great quantities were sent into New England. 
In 1720 a mine was opened at Cow Bay, whence the French army at Louisbourg 
was supplied, and numerous cargoes were shipped to Boston. Between 1745 and 
1749 the British garrison at Louisbourg was abundantly supplied with fuel from 
mines at Burnt Head and Little Bras d'Or, which were pi'otected against the Indians 
by fortified outposts. The Abb^ Raynal says that there was " a prodigious demand 
for Cape-Breton coal from New England from the year 1745 to 1749.-' But this trade 
was soon stopped by the British government, and only enough mining was done to 
supply the troops at Louisbourg and Halifax. The " coal-smugglers" still carried 
on a lucrative business, slipping quietly into the harbors and mining from the great 
seams in the face of the cliffs. In 1785 the Sydney vein was opened by Gov. Des- 
barres, but its profitable working was prevented by heavy royalties. The Imperial 
Government then assumed the control, and its vessels captured many of the light 
craft of the smugglers. In 1828 the General Mining Association was formed in Lon- 
don, and secured the privilege of the mines and minerals of Nova Scotia and Cape 
Breton from the Duke of York, to whom they had been granted by King George IV. 
Under the energetic management of the Association the business increased ra'pidly, 
and became profitable. Between 1827 and 1857 (inclusive), 1,931,634 tons of coal 
were mined in Cape Breton, of which 605,008 tons were sent to the United States. 
Between 1857 and 1870 there were sold at the mines 3,323,981 tons. By far the 
greater part of these products came from the Sydney field, but of late years consid- 
erable exportations are being made from the mines at Glace Bay, Cow Bay (Block- 
House), Gowrie, and Lingan. The Caledonia, Glace Bay, and Block-House coals are 
used for making gas at Boston and Cambridge, and the gas of New York is made 
from International, Glace Bay, Caledonia, and Block-House coals. 



146 Route 35. ST. PETEE'S. 

35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney, C. B. 

Bn the irai/ of the land, through St. Peter's. 

The Eoyal mail-stage loaves Port Hawkesbury every morning, some time after the 
arrival of the Autigouish stage, and runs E. and N. E. to Sydney. Fare, $ 5. This 
is one of the most arduous routes hy which Sydney can he approached, and leads 
through a thinly settled and unintoi-esting country until St. Peter's is reached. 
Beyond that point there isji series of atti-active views of the Givat Bras d'Or and St. 
Andivw's Channel, continuing almost to Sydney. 

Distances. — (Port Hastings to Port llawkesbury, 4-5 M.) Port Ilawkeshury 
to Gitmd Anse, 21 M. ; St. Peter's, 35 : Bed Island", 52; Irish Cove, 04 ; Sydney, 
100. ' ' . 

There is but little to interest the traveller during tlie first part of the 
journey. After leaving Port llawkesbury, the stage enters a rugged and 
unpromising country, leaving the populous shores of Canso and pushing 
P. to the Eiver Inhabitants. Ci'ossing that stream -where it begins to nar- 
row, the I'oad continues through a region of low bleak hills, with occasional 
views, to the r., of the deeper coves of the Lennox Passage. Before noon 
it reaches the naiTOw Haulover Isthmus, which sepai'ates St. Peter's Bay, 
on the Atlantic side, from St. Peter's Inlet, on the Bras d'Or side. At this 
point is situated the village of St. Peter's (two inns), a Scottish settlement 
near the bay. The canal Avhich has been constructed here to open com- 
munication between the Atlantic and the Bras d'Or is ^ M. long, 26 ft. 
wide, and 13 ft. deep, and is expected to be of much benefit to the Bras 
d'Or villages. It has been finished within a few years, and pertains to the 
Government, which takes a small toll from the vessels passing through. 
S. E. of St. Peter's are the blutr heights of ^It. Granville, and to the N. W. 
are the uninhabited highlands which are called on the maps the Sporting 
Mts. 

St. Peter's was founded by M. Penys, about the year 1636, to command the lower 
end of the Bras d'Or, as his post at St. Anne's commanded the upper end. lie built 
a portage-road here, opened farm-lands, and erected a fort which mounted several 
cannon. The Indians i-esiding on the most ixnnote arms of the Bras d'Or were thus 
enabled to visit and carry their furs and fish to either one of Denys's forts. Den3-s 
himself, together with the fort, the ship, and all other property hei-e, was captured 
soon after by a naval foiTO sent out by 31. le Borgue. But in liioO Denys retook his 
posts, guarded by a charter from King Louis. A few years later St. Peter's vras 
captui-ed by La (lira udiere, but was afterwards i-estored to Penys, who, however, 
abandoned the island about 1670, when all his buildings at this post were destroyed 
by fire. In 1737 St. Peter's was fortified by M. do St. Ovide, the commandant at 
Louisbourg ; but during the New-England crusade against the latter city, in 1745, 
it was eaptiu-ed and plundered by CoL Moulton's 3Iassaclmsctts regiment. In 1752 
St. Peter's was the chief depot of the fur-tnule with the Micmacs, and was sur- 
rounded with ii-uitfnl farms. It was then called Port Touloiu^e, and was connected 
with Louisbourg by a militaiy road IS leagues in length, constructed by the Count 
de Raymond. Besides the gtirrison of French troops, there was a civil population 
of 230 souls ; and in 1760 Port Toulouse had grown to be a larger town than even 
Louisbourg itself. The King of France afterwards reprimanded" the Count de Ray- 
mond for constructing his mihtary road, saying that it would afford the English an 
opportunity to attack Louisbourg "on the landward side. 

From the Strait of Canso to Grand River the coast is occupied by a line of humble 
and retired villages, inhabited by Acadian-Fremh fishermen. 7-8 M. S. E. of St. 
Peter's ai-e the L\-lr(/oi,<i- settlements (so named because a slate-quarry was once 
worked here). In 1750 there was a lai-ge French village here, with a giirrison of 



THE BRAS D'OR. Route 85. 147 

troops, and L'Ardoise was the chief depot of the fur-trade with the Indians. At 
Grand River the character of the population changes, though the names of the set- 
tlement would iudicate, were history silent, that the towns bejond that point were 
originally founded hy the French. They are now occupied exclusively by the Scotch, 
whose light vessels put out from the harbors of Grand River, L'Archeveque, St. 
Esprit, Blancherotte, Framboise, and Fourchu, on which are fishing-villages. 

A few miles N. E. of St. Peter's the stage crosses the Indian Reserva- 
tion near Louis Cove. Chapel Island is a little way off shore, and is the 
largest of the group of islets at the mouth of St. Peter's Inlet. These 
islands were granted by the government, in 1792, to the Micmac chiefs 
Bask and Tomma, for the use of their tribe, and have ever since been re- 
tained by their descendants. On the largest island is a Catholic chapel 
where all the Micmacs of Cape Breton gather, on the festival of St. Anne, 
every year, and pass several days in religious ceremonies and aboriginal 
games. Beyond this point the road runs N. E. between Soldier's Cove and 
the bold highlands on the r. and traverses the Red-Island Settlement, oflf 
which are the Red Islands. 

" The road that skirts the Arm of Gold is about 100 M. in length. After leaving 
Sydney you ride beside the Spanish River a short distance, until you come to the 
portage, which separates it from the lake, and then you follow the delicious curve 

of the great beach until you arrive at St. Peter's There is not a lovelier ride 

by white-pebbled beach and wide stretch of wave. Now we roll along amidst pri- 
meval trees, — not the evergreens of the sea-coast, but familiar growths of maple, 
beech, birch, and larches, juniper, or hackmatack, — imperishable for shipcraft ; 

now we cross bridges, over sparkling brooks alive with trout and salmon To 

hang now in our curricle, upon this wooded hill-top, overlooking the clear surface 
of the lake, with leafy island, and peninsula dotted in its depths, in all its native 
grace, without a touch or trace of handiwork, far or near, save and except a single 
spot of sail in the far-off, is holy and sublime." (Cozzens.) 

About 10 ]\I. beyond the Red Island Settlement is the way-office and vil- 
lage at Irish Cove, whence a road runs 10 - 12 M. S. E. across the highlands 
to the Grand-River Lake, or Loch Lomond, a picturesque sheet of water 
5-6 M. long, studded Avith islets and abounding in trout. The Scottish 
hamlets of Loch Lomond and Lochside are on its shores; and on the N., 
and connected by a narrow strait, is Loch Uist. The road crosses the 
lake and descends to Framboise Harbor, on the Atlantic coast. 

N. of Loch Uist, and about 7 M. from the Bras d"Or, is a remarkable saline spring, 
containing in each gallon 3i3 grains of chloride of sodium, 308 of chloride of cal- 
cium, and 9 of the chlorides of magnesium and potassium. This water is singularly 
free from sulphurous contamination, and has been found very efficient in cases of 
asthma, rheumatism, and chronic headache. There are no accommodations for 
visitors. 

About 6 M. N. W. of Irish Cove is seen Benacadie Point, at the entrance 
to the East Bay, a picturesque inlet of the Bras d'Or, which ascends for 
18-20 M. to the N. E., and is bordered by lines of bold heights. Near its 
N. shore are several groups of islands, and the depth of the bay is from 
8 to 32 fathoms. The stage follows its shore to the upper end. Above 
Irish Cove the road lies between the bay and a mountain 600 ft. high, be- 
yond which is Cape Rhumore. 3-4 M. farther on is Loch an Fad, beyond 
•which a roadside chapel is seen, and the road passes on to EdoobeJcuJc, 



US i: :-.- THE BKAS P"OE, 

botwoon the height? and the bhie water. The opposite shore (4 M. dis- 
tant) is oceupied by the Indians, \Yhose prineipal villago is called /.Viv^oni, 
and is situated near the group of islands in Crane Cove. The bay now 
diminishes to 2 M. in width, :md is followed to its source in the lagvxMi of 
Tweednogie. Tlie aggregate number of inhabitants, Scottish and Indian, 
along the shores of the East Bay, is a little over 2,000. The stage crv^sses 
the narwAv isthmus (4-5 M.\ and then follows the line of the Forks 
Lake and the Spanish Eiver, to the town of Sydney. 
Sydney, see page 150. 

S6. Halifax to Sydney, Cape Breton. 

By the Sea. 

Tliore is an indiivot nnito by the Boston v^ Colonial stoamshiivs to Port Ila'wkes- 
bnrv, tlunuv by stac^^ to West R\y, and up the Bnis d'Or to Sydney. 

The Aujrlo-Vivnoli Steamship Ooniiv\ny"s vesA^l. the (?ri"-o-c ^hat.'uck., leaves Ilal- 
it";vx ot\ alternate Sj\tui\lays at 3 r. M.. lor Sydney and St. Pierro (set^ Koute 50). 
Fares (inohiding meals^, llalitax to Sydney, cabin, !?10 ; stivragv\ SO- 

The Ejistern Steamship Com^viny's vessel, the T7ro-,\ leaves Halifax on alternate 
Tuesdays for Sydney and St. .lolni's, N. F. (^seo also Route 511. Fan^s to Sydney, S S 
and Sd (.ineludins: state-Txx>ms, but not meals): or lor ai\ excursion to Sydney and 
n^tnrn. 812. For further particulars, or to make certain of the days of startinsr, 
address AVilkinson, Wixvl. & Co., llalifex, N. S. The Virgo is much better adapte\.i 
for carrying ptisseugers than is the Georgf ShattufJ:. 

Halifax Harbor, see page 93. 

The course of the steamship is almost always within sight of land, a 
cold, dark, and rock-bound coast, otf which are submerged ledges on 
which the sea breaks into white foam. This coast is described in Routes 
2S and 29; but of its aspect fivm the sea the Editor can say nothing, as 
lie was obliged to traverse the wute as far as Canso by night. 

After passing the bold headland of Cape Canso, the deep bight of Ched- 
abticto Bay is seen on the W., running in to Guysboi-ough and the Strait 
of Canso. Between Cape Canso and Red Point, on Cape Breton, the open- 
ing is about SO M. wide, inside of which are Isle jNladame (Route 34) and 
St. Peter's Bay. The course of the vessel, atter crossing this wide open- 
ing, converges toward the Breton coast, which is, however, low and with- 
out character, and is studded with white tishing-hamlets. ;S^ £$pnt is 
visible, with its little harbor indetiting the coast. 

About the middle of the last century the British frigate TUburv. G4, was caught 
on this shore during a heavy gale of wind, and was unable to work otY. in spite of 
the utm.ost exertioiis of her" g'lvat civw. The Tilbury Kocks, olY St Esprit, still 
commemorate the place where she finally struck and went to pieces. 200 s^iilors 
were either drowntxl or killed by being dashed on the sharp nvks, and 20*.^ men and 
15 officers wei-e saved ft-om the waves by the Fivnch ^Hx^ple of St. F/?prit, who nour- 
ishtHl and shelten\l them with tender care. England and France being then at war, 
the snrvivoi-s of the Tilbitrii's cif w weiv despatched to Fratu-e as prisonei-s, on the 
Fivuch frigjite H<-r»uone. This vessel wjvs, however, capturvi.1 in the English Ohau- 
nel, and the sailors werv itleased. 

Beyond St. Esprit the coves of Framboise and Fourchu make in from 



CAPE BEETON. Route 36. 149 

the sea, and above the deep inlet of Gabarus Bay the lighthouse of Louis- 
bourg (see Route 38) may perhaps be seen. 

Ill 1744 the French ships Notre Dame de la Delivrance, Louis ^rasme, and Marquis 
d''Antin sailed from Oallao (Peru), with a vast amount of treasure on board, con- 
cealed under a surface-cargo of cocoa. The two latter were captured off the Azores 
by the British privateers Prince Frederick and Duke, but during the 3 hours' action 
the Notre Dame escaped. Not daring to approach the French coast while so many- 
hostile privateers were cruising about, she crowded all sail and bore away for Louis- 
bourg. 20 days later she sighted Scatari,and it seemed that her valuable cargo, 
was already safe. But she was met, a short distance to the S., by a British fleet, 
and became a prize. Among the people captured on ths Notre Dame was Doia 
Antonio d'Ulloa, the famous Spanish scientist, who was kept here in light captivity 
for two months, and who afterwards wrote an interesting book about Cape Breton. 
The lucky vessels that made the capture were the Sunderland, Boston, and Chester, 
and their crews had great prize-money, — for over $4,000,000 was found on the 
Notre Dame, in bars and ingots of gold and silver. 

In 1756 the French frigate Arc-m-Ciel, 50, and the Amitii were captured in these 
waters by 11. B. M. ships Centurion a,\\(\. Success. In July, 1756, the French vessels 
Heros, 74, llluslre, 64, and two 36-gun frigates met 11. B. M. ships Grafton, 70, Not- 
tingham, 70, and the Jamaica sloop, and fought from mid-afternoon till dark. The 
action was indecisive, and each fleet claimed that the other stole away at night. 
The loss of men on both sides was considerable. 

In May, 1745, a gallant naval action was fought hereabouts between the French 
ship-of-the-line Vigilant and Com. ^\'arren's fleet, consisting of the Superb (60-gua 
ship), and the Lamiceston, 3Iermaid,and ii'/</iam(40-gun frigates). The Vigilant was 
carrying a supply of military goods from Brest to Louisbourg, and met the Mer- 
maid, standing off and on in the fog. The latter made sail and fled toward the 
squadron, and the Vigilant swept on in the fog and ran into the midst of the 
Briti.sh fleet. AVarreu's ships opened fire on every side, but the French captain, 
the Marquis de Maisonforte, refused to surrender, though his decks were covered 
with stores and his lower batteries were below the water-line by reason of the heavy 
cargo. The battle was terrific, and lasted for 7 hours, while Maisonforte kept his 
colors flying and his cannon roaring until all his rigging was cut away by the British 
shot, the rudder was broken, the forecastle battered to pieces, and great numbers 
of the crew wounded or dead. 

The steamship now runs out to round Scatari, traversing waters which 
maintain a uniform depth of over 80 fathoms. On the W. is the promon- 
tory of Cape Breton, from Avhich the island receives its name. It is a low 
headland, off which is the dark rock of Porto Nuevo Island. 

There is an old French tradition to the effect that Yerazzano, the eminent Floren- 
tine navigator, landed near Cape Breton on his last voyage, and attempted to found 
a fortified settlement. But being suddenly attacked and overpowered by the Indians, 
himself and all his crew were put to death in a cruel manner. It is known to his- 
tory that this discoverer was never heard from after leaving France on his last voy- 
age" (in 1525). 

It is believed that Cape Breton was first visited by the Marigold (70 tons), in 
1593 ; whereof it is written : " Here diners of our men went on land vpon the very 
cape, where, at their arriuall they found the spittes of oke of the Sauages which had 
roasted meate a little before. And as they viewed the countrey they saw diuers 
beastes and foules, as blacke foxes, deeres, otters, great foules with redde legges, pen- 
guines, and certaine others." Thence the Marigold sailed to the site of Louisbourg, 
where her crew landed to get water, but were driven offshore by the Indians. 

The cape probably owes its name to the fact of its being visited by the Breton and 
Basque fishermen, who in those days frequented these seas. Cape Breton was at 
that time a prosperous commercial city, near Bayonne, in the South of France. It 
was frequented by the Huguenots about this time, and had large fleets engaged in 
the fisheries. By the changing of the course of the Adour River, and the drifting of 
sand into its harbor, its maritime importance was taken away, and in 1841 it had but 
920 inhabitants. (Dictionnaire Ency doped icpte.) 

In 1629 Lord Ochiltree, the son of the Earl of Arran, came out with 60 colonists, 



158 JiouteSO. ST. ANNE'S BAY. 

39. The North Shore of Cape Breton. — St, Anne's Bay and 
St. Paul's Island. 

Conveyances may be hired at Baddeck (see page 162) by -VN-hich to visii 
St. Anne's. The distance is about 10 M. to the head of the harbor. Th« 
first part of the Avay leads along the shores of Baddeck Bay, with th< 
promontory of Red Head over the water to the r. The road then crosses j 
cold district of denuded highlands, and descends to the * Vallei/ of St. Anne. 
As the harbor is appi-oached, the traveller can see the amphithcatrical 
glens in Avhich the great Holy Fairs or annual religious communions of 
tlie people are held. These quaint Presbyterian camp-meeting-s are said 
to be a relic of the ancient churches in the Scottish Highlands. The 
shores of the harbor were occupied in 1S20 by immigrants from the High 
lands, who are noAv well located on comfortable farms. The road follows 
tlie S. Arm, and to the 1. is seen the N. Arm, winding away among th 
tall mountains. Just E. of the N. Amn is St. Anne's Mt., which is 1,070 ft, 
high, and pushes forward cliffs 960 ft. high nearly to the water's edge. 

" There is no ride on the continent, of the kind, so full of picturesqui 
beauty and constant surprises as this around the indentations of St. Anne' 
harbor. High bluffs, bold shores, exquisite sea-views, mountainous ranges, 
delicious air," are found here in abundance. About opposite the light- 
house on the bar, at the mouth of the harbor, is Old Fort Point, on which 
the French batteries wei'e established. Near this point is the hamlet of 
EngJishiown, chiefly interesting as containing the grave of the once famous 
*' Nova-Scotia Giant." The mountains back of Englishtown are over 
1,000 ft. high, and run N. E. to Cape Dauphin, whence they repel the sea. 
Imi-Ax^s Sailing Directions states that " on the N. side the land is very 
high, and ships-of-war may lie so near the shore that a water-hose may 
reach the fresh Avater." As to the harbor, the ancient description of 
Chai-levoix still holds g-ood: — 

" Port Ste. Anne, as ah-cady statetl, has before it a very sure roadstead between 
the Oibou Islands. The port is almost complotoly closed by a tougue of land, leav- 
ing passage for only a single ship. This port, thus closed, is nearly t\Yo leagues in 
circuit, and is oval in form. Ships can everywhere approach the land, and scarcely 
perceive the vrinds, on account of its high hanks and the surrounding mountains. 
.... The lishing is very abundant ; great quantities of good wood are found there, 
such as maple, hoech, "wild cherry, and especially oaks very suitable for building 
and masts, being 2S-oS ft. high ; marble is common ; most of the land good, — in 
Great and Little Labrador, which are only a league and a half off, the soil is very 
fertile, aud it can contain a very large number of settlers." 

In St. Anne's Bay the English ship CliaucewcU was wrecked in 1597, and while 
she lay agi-ound '" ttiei-o came aboord many shallops with store of French men, who 
i-obbed and spoyled all they could lay their hands on, pillaging the poore meu euen 
to their very shirts, and vsing them in Si\uage manner ; wheivas they should rather 
as Christians haue aided them iu that distresse."' In 1629 this harbor was occupied 
by the Gmrt St. Amfitir aud the ]\[(j)g^iterite. armed vessels of France, whose crews, 
together with their Enghsh prisonei*s, constructed a fort to command the entrance 
It was armed with S cannon, 1,800 pounds of powder, pikes, and muskets, and was 
gixrrisoned by 40 meu. The commander of the tieet raised the arms of the King aud 
of Cardinal Richehou over its wiUls, and erected a chapel, for whose care he left two 



INGONISH. Route 39. 159 

Jesuits. He then named the harbor St. Anne's. Before the close of that -winter 
more than one third of the troops died of the scurvy, and the commandant assas- 
sinated his lieutenant on the parade-ground. In 1634 the Jesuits founded an In- 
dian mission here, but both this and the garrison were afterwards withdrawn. Some 
years later a new battery and settlement were erected here by Nicholas Denys,Sieur 
de Fronsac, who traded hence with the Indians of the N. of Cape Breton. 

The valley of the N. Arm of St. Anne's was granted, in 1713, to M. de Rouville, 
a captain in the infantry of France, and brother of that Hertel de Rouville who led 
the forces that destroyed Schenectady, Deerfield, and Haverhill. The N. Arm was 
long called Rouville's River. At a later day Costabelle, Beaucourt, Soubras, and 
other French officers had fishing-stations on the bay. In 1745 a frigate from Com. 
AVarren's fleet (then blockading Louisbourg) entered the harbor, and destroyed all 
the property on its shores. St. Anne's Bay was afterwards called Port Dauphin by 
the French, and the government long hesitated as to whether the chief fortress of 
Cape Breton should be located here or at Louisbourg. The perfect security of the 
harbor afforded a strong argument in favor of St. Anne's, and it seemed capable of 
being made impregnable at slight expense. After the foundation of Louisbourg 1,000 
cords of wood were sent to that place annually from St. Anne's. 

The road from the Bras d'Or to the N. shore of Cape Breton diverges 
from the St. Anne road before reaching the harbor, and bears to the N. E., 
along the W. Branch. It rounds the North-Eiver Valley by a great curve, 
and then sweeps up the harbor-shore, under the imposing cliffs of St. 
Anne's Mt. From St. Anne's to Ingonish the distance is about 40 M., by 
a remarkably picturesque road between the mountains and the Atlantic, 
on a narrow plain, which recalls Byron's lines: — 

" The mountains look on Marathon, 
And Marathon looks on the sea." 

" Grand and very beautiful are the rocky gorges and ravines which furrow the 
hills and precipices between St. Anne's and Ingonish Equally grand and pic- 
turesque is the red syenitic escarpment of Smoky Cape, capped with the cloud 
from which it derives its name, with many a lofty headland in the background, 
and the peak of the Sugar-loaf Mountain just peeping above the far-distant hori- 
zon." (Brown.) 

The proud headland of Cape Smoky (the Cap Enfume of the French) is 
950 ft. high, and runs sheer down into the sea. To the "W. there are peaks 
1,200-1,300 ft. high; and as the road bends around the deep bights to the 
N., it passes under summits more than 1,400 ft. high. Among these mas- 
sive hills, and facing Cape Smoky, is the village of Ingonisli, inhabited by 
Scottish Catholic fishermen, 800 of whom are found in this district. On 
the island that shelters the harbor is a fixed white light, 237 ft. above the 
sea, and visible for 15 M. 

Ingonish was one of the early stations of the French. In 1729 a great church was 
built here, whose foundations only remain now ; and in 1849 a church-bell, marked 
St. Malo, 1729, and weighing 200 pounds, was found buried in the sands of the 
beach. The settlement here was probably ruined by the drawing away of its people 
to aid in holding Louisbourg against the Anglo-American forces. In 1740 Ingonish 
was the second town on the island, and its fleet caught 1-3,560 quintals of fish. It 
was destroyed, in 1745, by men-of-war from Com. AYarren's fleet. 

The highland region bade of Ingonish has always been famous for its abundance 
of game, especially of moose and caribou. In the winter of 1789 over 9,000 moose 
were killed here for the sake of their skins, which brought ten shillings each ; and 
for many )^ears this wholesale slaughter went on, and vessels knew when they were 
approaching the N. shore of Cape Breton by the odor of decaying carcasses which 
came from the shore. Finally the outraged laws of the Province were vindicated by 
the occupation of Ingonish by a body of troops, whose duty it was to restrain the 



152 Route 37. THE SYDXEY COAL-FIELDS. 

Tothisq-ue Americce Septentrionalis Domina, Fidei Defensor, etc. In Cvjus harum 
insularinn vulgo Cape Breton, Proprietatis et Dominii Testimonium, Hoc Erexit 
Monumentum, Sucf Majestatis Servus, et Subditus Jidelissimus, D. Hovendtn 
Walker, Eques Auratus, Qjnnium in America Navium Regalium, PtCEfectus et 
Thalassiarcha. Monte Septunbris, Anno 5a/«?f,s MDCCXI."' 

The first ciril governor of Cape Breton after its sevemnce from Nora Scotia (1784) 
-was Major Desbarres, a yeteran of the campaigns of the Mohawk Valley, Lake George, 
Ticondero^a, Louisbourg, ami Quebec. One of his chief steps -was to select a site for 
the new capital of the island, and the location chosen was the peninsula on the S. 
arm of the capacious harbor called Spanish River. The seat of government thus 
estabhshed was named Sydney, in honor of Lord Sydney, Secretary of State for the 
Colonies, who had erected Cape Breton into a separate Province. In the spring of 
17S5 the Loyalists under Abraham Cuyler (ex-Mayor of Albany, N. Y.) came from 
Louisbourg to Svdnev, cut down the forests, and erected buildings. 

In 1781 a sha'rp naval battle was fought off Sydney Harbor, between the French 
frigates L'Ast;ee and L'Herm>one (of 44 guns each) and a British squadron consist- 
ing of the Charlestoicn, 28, Allegiance, 16, Vulture,!^, Little Jack. (3. and the armed 
transport Vernon. 16 coal-ships which were under convoy of the British fleet fled 
into Sydney harbor, while the frigates rapidly overhauled the escort and brought on 
a general engagement. After a long and stubborn action, the Little Jack surren- 
dered, and the^remainder of the fleet would have shared the same fate, had it not 
been for the approach of night, under whose shelter the shattered British vessels 
bore away to the eastward^and escaped. They had lost 18 men killed and 28 
wounded.' The senior captain of the victorious French vessels was La Perouse, who 
started in 178S, with two frigates, on a voyage of discovery around the world, but 
was lost, with all his equipage, on the Isle of Yanikoro. 



37. The East Coast of Cape Breton.— The Sydney Coal- 
Fields. 

The Sydney Mines are on the N. side of Sydney Harbor, and are con- 
nected -with N. Sydney by a coal-railway and also by a daily stage (fare, 
7oc.). They are on the level land included between the Little Bras d'Or 
and the harbor of Sydney, and are worked by the General Mining Asso- 
ciation of London. Nearly 500 men are employed in the pits, and the vil- 
lage has a population of 2,500. 

The International Mines are at Bridgeport, 13 M. N. E. of Sydney, and 
are connected with that harbor by a railway that cost S 500,000. The sen- 
shore is here lined with rich coal-deposits, extending from Liugan Harbor 
to Sydney. It is probable that the submarine mining, which has already 
been commenced, will follow the carboniferous strata far beneath the sea. 

The Victoria Mines are "\V. of this disti-ict, and near Low Point, 9 M. 
from Sydney. The company has a railway which extends to their freight- 
ing station on Sydney Harbor, and is at present doing a prosperous busi- 
ness. 

The Lingan Mines are near Bridgeport, and are reached by a tri-weekly 
stage from Sydney (15 M. ; fare, $1.50). Lingan is derived from the 
French word L'Indienne, applying to the same place. It ■v\-as occupied 
and fortified by the British early in the ISth century, and a garrison of 
50 men was stationed here to guard the coal-mines. At a later day the 
French army at Louisbourg -was supplied Avith large quantities of coal 
from this point, and several cargoes were sent away. During the summer 



THE SYDNEY COAL-FIELDS. Route 37. 153 

of 1752 the mine was set on fire, and the fort and buildings were all 
destroyed. 

The Little Glace Bay Mines are 18 M. from Sydney, and are reached 
by a tri-weeldy stage (fare, Si). They are situated on Glace Bay and 
Glace Cove, and about Table Head, and are carried on by a Halifax com- 
pany, which employs 300 miners. The deposits are very rich along this 
shore, and extend far out beneath the sea. 

The Gowrie and Block-House Klines are on Cow Bay, and ai-e among the 
most extensive on this coast. They are 22 M. from Sydney, and are 
reached by a tri-weekly stage. They employ over 600 men, and have 
formed a town of 2,000 inhabitants. Large fleets gather in the bay for 
the transpoi-tation of the coal to the S., and while lying here are in con- 
siderable peril during the prevalence of easterly gales, which have a full 
sweep into the roadstead. Nearly 70 vessels were wi-ecked here during 
the Lord's-Day Gale, and the shores were strewn with broken hulks and 
many yet sadder relics of disaster. The S. portal of the bay is Cape 
Morien, and on the N. is Cape Perry, off which is the sea-surrounded Flint 
Island, beai-ing a revolving white light. 

The coal-beds of Cape Bretoa were first described by Denys, in 1672, and from 
1677 to 1690 he had a royalty of 20 sous per ton on all the coal that was exported. 
Some of it was taken to France, and great quantities were sent into New Englandl 
In 1720 a mine was opened at Cow Bay, whence the French army at Louisbourg 
■was supplied, and numerous cargoes were shipped to Boston. Between 1745 and 
1749 the British garrison at Louisbourg was abundantly supplied with fuel from 
mines at Burnt Head and Little Bras d"Or, which were protected against the Indians 
by fortified outposts. The Abb6 Raynal .says that there was " a prodigious demand 
for Cape-Breton coal from New England from the year 1745 to 1749.-' But this trade 
was soon stopped by the British government, and only enough mining was done to 
supply the troops at Louisbourg and Halifax. The " coal-smugglers ■' still carried 
on a lucrative business, slipping quietly into the harbors and mining from the great 
seams in the face of the cliffs. In 1785 the Sydney vein was opened by Gov. Des- 
barres, but its profitable working was prevented by heavy royalties. The Imperial 
Government then assumed the control, and its vessels captured many of the light 
craft of the smugglers. In 1828 the General Mining Association was formed in Lon- 
don, and secured the privilege of the mines and minerals of Nova Scotia and Cape 
Breton from the Duke of York, to whom they had been granted by King George IV. 
Under the energetic management of the Association the business increased rapidly, 
and became profitable. Between 1827 and 1857 (inclusive), 1,931,634 tons of coal 
were mined in Cape Breton, of which 605,008 tons were sent to the United States. 
Between 1857 and 1870 there were sold at the mines 3,323,981 tons. By far the 
greater part of these products came from the Sydney field, but of late years consid- 
erable exportations are being made from the mines at Glace Bay, Cow Bay (Block- 
House), Gowrie, and Lingan. The Caledonia, Glace Bay, and Block-House coals are 
used for making gas at Boston and Cambridge, and the gas of New York is made 
from International, Glace Bay, Caledonia, and Block-House coals. 



154 HouteSS. LOUISBOUEG. 

38. The Fortress of Louisbourg. 

Louisbourg is reached (until the railway is finished) by a weekly stage 
from Sydney, iu 24 ]\r. A road runs hence 15 - IS ^I. N. E. along an in- 
teresting coast, to Cope Breton (see page 149), passing tlie hamlets of Big 
and Little Loran, "named in honor of the haughty house of Lorraine." 
Cape Breton itself is nearly uisulated by the deep haven of Baleine Cove, 
and just off its S. point is the rock of Porto Nuevo, rising boldly from 
the sea. Beyond the cape and the hamlet of Main-a-Dieu the ]Mira Bay 
road passes the hamlet of Catalogne (IS iL fi-om Sydney), at the outlet of 
the broad lagoon of the Catalogne Lake, and follows the !Mira River from 
the village of !Mira Gut to the drawbridge on the Louisbourg road, where 
the farming hamlet of Albert Bridge has been established (12 M. from 
Sydney). A road runs hence S. W. 12 - 1-1 ^L to Marion Bridge, a Scot- 
tish settlement near the long and narrow ilim Lake. The road ascends 
thence along the valley of the Salmon Kiver to the vicinity of Loch L'ist 
and Loch Lomond (see page 147). 

Gabarus Bay is S-10 M. S. W. of Louisbourg, and is a deep and spa- 
cious but poorly sheltered roadstead. It has a large and straggling fishing- 
settlement, near the Gabarus, Belfry, and ^lira Lakes. 

Louisbourg at present consists of a small hamlet occupied by fisher- 
men, whose vessels sail hence to the stormy Grand Banks. The adjacent 
country is hilly and unproductive, and contains no settlements. The har- 
bor is entered through a passage 10 fathoms deep, with a powerful white 
light on the X. E. headland, and is a capacious basin with 5-7 fathoms 
of water, well sheltered from any wind. On Poiat Eochfort, at the S. "W. 
side of the harbor, are the ruins of the ancient French fortress and city. 

" The ruins of the ouce formidable batteries, with wide broken s:aps (blown up 
by gunpowder^, present a nielaneholy piotui-e of past energy The strong and capa- 
cious magazine, once the deposit of immense quantities of munitions of war, is still 
nearlv entire, but. hidden by tiieaeeumxilation of earth and turf, now atfords a com- 
modious shelter for tlocks of peaceful sheep, which feed aroxmd the burial-ground 
where the remains of many a g-allant Fivnchman and patriotic Briton are deposited; 
while beneath the clear cold wave may be seen the rast sunken ships of war. whose 
very bxxlk indicates the power enjoyed b.v the GaUic nation ei-e England became 
mistress of her colonies on the shores of the AVestern Atlantic. Desolation now sits 
with a ghastly smile ai'ound the once formidable bastions. All is silent except the 
loud i-everberating ocean, as it rolls its tremendous surges along the rocky beach, or 
the bleating of the scattered sheep, as with tinkling bells they return iu the dusky 
solitude of eve to their singular folds." (Montgomkkt Martin.) 

" If you ever visit Louisbourg, you will observe a piatch of dark greensward on 
Point Eochfort, — the site of the old burying-ground. Beneath it lie the ashes of 
hundivds of bitwe New-Englanders. No monument marks the sacivd spot, but the 
waves of the restless ocean, iu calm or storm, sing an everlasting requiem over the 
graves of the departed hei-oes." (R. Brown.) 

The port of Loxiisbourg was called fi-om the earliest times Havre d !' Anglais, but 
no important settlements were made here until after the surrender of Newfoundland 
and Acadia to Great Britain, by tlie Treaty of Utrecht. Then the Fi-ench troops and 
inhabitants evacuated Placentia (X. F.) and came to this place. In 1714 31. de St. 
Ovi le de Brouillan was made Governor of Louisbourg ; and the work of building the 
fortress was beiruu about 1720. 



THE FOKTKESS OF LOUISBOURG. Route 38. 155 

The powerful defences of" the Dunkirk of America" were hurried to completion 
and the people of New England " looked with awe upon the sombre walls of Louis- 
bourg, whose towers rose like giants above the northern seas." Over 30,000,000 
livres were drawn from the French roj'al treasury, and were expended on the forti- 
fications of Louisbourg ; and numerous cargoes of building-stone were sent hither 
from France (as if Cape Breton had not enough , and little else). Fleets of New- 
England vessels bore lumber and bricks to the new fortress ; and the Acadians sent 
in supplies and cattle. For more than 20 years the French government devoted 
all its energy and resources to one object, — the completion of these fortifications. 
Inhabitants were drawn to the place by bounties ; and Louisbourg soon had a large 
trade with France, New England, and the West Indies. 

The harbor was guarded by a battery of 30 28-pounders, on Goat Island ; and by 
the Grand (or Royal) Battery, which carried 30 heavy guns and raked the entrance. 
On the landward side was a deep moat and projecting bastions ; and the great 
careening-dock was opposite. The land and harbor sides of the town were defended 
by lines of ramparts and bastions, on which 80 guns were mounted; and the West 
Gate was overlooked by a battery of 16 24-pounders. The Citadel was in the gorge 
of the King's Bastion. In the centre of the city were the stately stone church, 
nunnery, and hospital of St. Jean de Dieu. The streets crossed each other at 
right angles, and communicated with the wharves by five gates in the harbor- 
ward wall. The fortress was in the first system of Vauban, and required a large 
garrison. 

Early in 1745 the Massachusetts Legislature determined to attack Louisbourg with 
all the forces of the Province ; and Gov. Shirley, the originator of the enterprise, 
gave the military command to Col: Wm. Pepperell. Massachusetts furnished 3,250 
men ; New Hampshire, 300 ; and Connecticut, 500 ; and George Whitefield gave the 
motto for the army, " Nil desperandian, Cliristo duce^'' thus making the enterprise 
a sort of Puritan crusade. The forces were joined at Canso by Commodore Warren's 
West-India fleet, and a lauding was soon effected in Gabarus Bay. The garrison con- 
sisted of 750 French veterans and 1,500 militia, and the assailants were " 4,000 un- 
disciplined militia or volunteers, officered by men who had, with one or two excep- 
tions, never seen a shot fired in anger all their lives, encamped in an open country, 
. . . . and sadly deficient in suitable artillery." The storehouses up the harbor 
were set on fire by Vaughan's New-Hampshire men ; and the black smoke drove down 
on the Grand Battery, so greatly alarming its garrison that they spiked their gung 
and fled. The fort was occupied by the Americans and soon opened on the city. 
Fascine batteries were erected at 1,550 and 950 yards from the West Gate, and a 
breaching battery was reared at night within 250 yards of the walls. Amid the roar 
of a continual bombardment, the garrison made sorties by sea and land; and 1,500 
of the Americans were sick or wounded, 600 were kept out in the country watching 
the hostile Indians, and 200 had been lost in a disastrous attempt at storming the 
Island Battery. Early in June, the guns of the Circular Battery were all dis- 
mounted, the King's Bastion had a breach 24 feet deep, the town had been ruined 
by a rain of bombs and red-hot balls, and the Island Battery had been rendered un- 
tenable by the American cannonade. On the 15th the fleet (consisting of the Superb, 
Sunderland, Canterbury , and Princess Mary, 60 guns each ; and the Launceston, 
Chester, Lark, Mermaid, Hector, and Ettliam, of 40 guns each) was drawn up off 
the harbor ; and the army was arrayed " to march with drums beating and colours 
flying to the assault of the West Gate." But Gov. Duchambon saw these ominous 
preparations and surrendered the works, to avoid unnecessary carnage. " As the 
troops, entering the fortress, beheld the strength of the place, their hearts for the 
first time sank within them. ' God has gone out of his way,' said they, 'in a re- 
markable and most miraculous manner, to incline the hearts of the French to give 
up and deliver this strong city into our hand.' " Pepperell attributed his success, 
not to his artillery or the fleet of line-of-battle ships, but to the prayers of New Eng- 
land, daily arising from every village in behalf of the absent army. " The news of 
this important victory filled New England with joy and Europe with astonishment." 
Boston and London and the chief towns of America and England were illuminated ; 
the batteries of London Tower fired salutes; and King George II. made Pepperell a 
baronet, and Warren a rear-admiral. (For the naval exploits, see page 149.) 

4,130 French people were sent home on a fleet of transports ; the siege-batteries 
were levelled, and 266 guns were mounted on the repaired walls ; and in the follow- 
ing April the New-England troops were relieved by two regiments from Gibraltar, 
and went home, having lost nearly 1,000 men. The historian SmoUet designated 



156 Route 3S. THE FOETRESS OF LOUISBOURG. 

the capture of Louisbourg, " the most important achievement of the -war of 1745 " ; 
and the authors of the " Unirersal History *" considered it " an equivalent for all 1 
the successes of the French upon the Continent." The siege is minutely described 
(with maps) in Brown's " History of the Island of Cape Breton," pages 16S -24S. 

" That a colony like Massachusetts, at that time far from being rich or populous, 
should display such remarkable military spirit and enterprise, aided only by the 
smaller Province of Xew Hampshire : that tliey should equip both land and sea forces 
to attack a redoubtable fortress called by British officers impregnable, and on which 
the French Crown had expended immense sums ; . . . . that 4,000 rustic militia, 
whose officers were as inexperienced in war as their men, although supported by 
naval forces, should conquer the regular troops of the greatest military power of the 
age, and wrest from their hands a palace of unusual strength, all appear little short 
of miracle." (Be-oiish Murdoch.) 

So keenly did the French government feel the loss of Louisbourg that the great 
French Armada was sent out in 1746 to retake it and to destroy Boston. After the 
disastrous failure of this expedition (see page 99), La Jonquiere was despatched with 
16 men-of-war and 2S other vessels, on the same errand, but was attacked by the fleets 
of Anson and Warren off Cape Finisterre, and lost 9 ships of war, 4,000 men, and 
S 8,000,000 worth of the convoyed cargoes. In 1749 the war was ended, Louisbourg 
and Cape Breton were restored to France, and "' after four years of warfare in all 
parts of the world, after all the waste of blood and treasure, the war ended just 
where it began." 

When war broke out again between England and France, in 1755, Louisbourg was 
blockaded by the fleet of Admiral Boscawen. England soon sent 11 line-of-battle 
ships, a squadron of frigates, and 50 transports, bearing 6,000 soldiers, to reduce the 
fortress ; but France was too prompt to be surprised, and held it with 17 sail of the 
line and 10,000 men. The vast English fleet got within 2 M. of Louisbourg and 
then recoiled, sailed to Halifax, and "soon broke up, sending the army to New York 
and the ships to England. France then equipped fleets at Toulon and Rochfort, to 
reinforce Louisbourg ; but the Foiidroyant, Si, the Orpheus, 64, and other vessels 
were captured. Six men-of-war and sixteen transports reached Louisbourg, with a 
great amount of militai\v supplies. 

Great Britain new fitted out an immense fleet at Spithead, consisting of the 
Namur, 90 guns ; Royal William, 80 ; Princess Amelia, 80 ; Terrible, 74; the North- 
umberland, Oxford, Burford, Vanguard, So7)ierset, and Lancaster, 70 guns each ; 
the Devonshire, Bedford, Captain, and Prince Frederick, 64: each; the Pembroke, 
Ki7igston, York, Prince of Orange, Defiance, sxnd Nottingha??!, 60 guns each; the 
Centurion and Sutherland, 50 each; the fi'igates Juno, Grammont, Nightingale, 
Hunter, Boreas, Hind, Trent, Port Mahon, Diana, Shannon, Eennington, Scar- 
borough, Squirrel, Hau-k, Beaver, Tyloe, and Halifax; and the fire-ships Etna and 
Lightning. There were also 118 transports, carrying 13.600 men, in 17 regiments. 
Boscawen commanded the fleet, Amherst the army, and Wolfe was one of the briga- 
diers. 

This powerful annament soon appeared off Louisbourg, and at dawn on the 8th of 
June, 1758, the British troops landed at Gabarus Bay, and pushed through the fatal 
surf of Freshwater Cove, amid the hot fire of the French shore-batteries. After losing 
110 men they carried the entrenchments at the point of the bayonet, and the French 
fell back on "Louisbourg. The fortress had been greatly strengthened since the siege 
of 1745, and was defended by 3,400 men of the Artillery and the regiments of Yolon- 
taires Etrangers, Artois, Bourgogne, and Cambise, besides large bodies of miUtia and 
Indians. In the harbor were the ships-of-war, Prudent, 74 ; Entreprenant, 74 ; 
Capricieux, 64; Celebre,6\\ Bienfaisant, Gi: Apollon, 50; Diane, Z6; Arethuse, 
86 ; Fidele, 86 ;' Echo, 32 ; Biche, 16 ; and Chevre, 16. 

Wolfe's brigade then occupied the old Lighthouse Battery, and opened fire on the 
city, the French fleet, and the Island Battery. The latter was soon completely de- 
stroyed bj' Wolfe's tremendous cannonade ; and since the harbor was thus left 
unguarded, Gov. Drucour sank the frigates Diane, Apollon, Biche, Fidcle, and 
Chevre at its entrance. Meantime the main army was erecting works on Green Hill 
and opposite the Queen's and Princess's Bastions, under the fire of the French 
ramparts and ships, and annoyed on the rear by the Indians. During a bloody 
sortie by the French, the Earl of Dundonald and many of the Grenadiers v,-ere 
killed. The heavy siege-batteries were advanced rapidly, and poured in a crushing 
fire on the doomed city, destroying the Citadel, the AVest Gate, and the barracks. 
The magazine of the Entreprenant, 74, blew up, and the Capricieux and Celcbre, 



THE FORTEESS OF LOUISBOURG. Route S8. 157 

catching the fire in their sails, were burned at their moorings. The Arethuse and 
Echo ran out of the harbor in foggy weather, but the latter was captured. Only- 
two French frigates remained, and these were both captured by boats from the fleet, 
after a daring attack. On the 26th of July the Chevalier de Drucour surrendered 
the city, with 5,637 men, 236 pieces of artillery, and immense amounts of stores and 
supplies. The French had lost about 1,000 men, the British nearly 600, during the 
siege. 

All England rang with the tidings of the fall of" the Dunkirk of America," special 
prayers and thanksgivings were read in all the churches of the kingdom ; and 11 
sets of colors from Louisbourg were presented to the King at Kensington Palace, 
whence they were borne with great pomp to St. Paul's Cathedral. Marine insurance 
on Anglo-American vessels fell at once from 30 to 12 per cent, because the French 
privateers were driven from the western seas by the closing of their port of refuge. 

In 1759 the great fleet and army of Gen. Wolfe gathered at Louisbourg and sailed 
away to the Conquest of Canada. Halifax was a fine naval station, and it was 
deemed inexpedient to maintain a costly garrison at Louisbourg ; so sappers and 
miners were sent there in the summer of 1760, and " in the short space of six months 
all the fortifications and public buildings, which had cost France 25 years of labor 
and a vast amount of money, were utterly demolished, — the walls and glacis levelled 
into the ditch, — leaving, in fact, nothing to mark their former situation but heaps 
of stones and rubbish. Nothing was left standing but the private houses, which 
had been rent and shattered during the siege, the hospital, and a barrack capable 

of lodging 300 men All the artillery, ammunition, stores, implements, — in 

short, everything of the slightest value, even the hewn stones which had decorated 
the public buildings, were transported to Halifax." 

The British garrison was withdrawn in 1768, and after the foundation of Sydney 
" the most splendid town of La Nouvelle France " was completely deserted by its 
people. 

During a year or two past a scheme has been agitated whose fulfilment would 
restore Louisbourg to more than its former importance. It is proposed to construct 
a first-class railway from this point to some station on the Pictou Branch of the 
Intercolonial Railway, crossing the Strait of Canso either by a lofty suspension- 
bridge or a steam ferry-boat on which the trains would be carried. It is thought 
that the freight and passenger receipts from the coal-mines and the settlements on 
the territory traversed would more than defray the cost of construction and mainte- 
nance. The projectors then intend to make Louisbourg a port of call for the ocean- 
steamships, for whose use this safe and accessible harbor is peculiarlv adapted. This 
port is on the 60th parallel of W. longitude, and is 11 degrees E. of Boston and 14 de- 
grees E. of New York, or so much farther advanced on the route to Europe. When 
the through railway is completed to Boston, Montreal, and New York, it is thought 
that most of the better class, at least, of transatlantic travellers would prefer to save 
time and nearly 1,000 M. of ocean-voyaging, by leaving or taking the steamship 
here. Extensive surveys have already been made in tMs vicinity, and real estate 
in Louisbourg has rapidly advanced in value. 



158 Route 39. ST. AXXE'S BAY. 



39. The North Shore of Cape Breton. — St. Anne's Bay and 
St. Paul's Island. 

Conveyances may be hired at Baddeck (see page 162) b}- -sN-hich to visit 
St. Anne's. The distance is about 10 M. to the head of the harbor. The 
first part of the way leads along the shores of Baddeck Bay, with the 
promontoiy of Eed Head over the -water to the r. The road then crosses a 
cold district of denuded highlands, and descends to the * Valley of St. AniiCt 
As the harbor is approached, the traveller can see the amphitheatrica] 
glens in which the great Holy Fairs or annual religious communions of 
the people are held. These quaint Presbj-terian camp-meetings are said 
to be a relic of the ancient churches in the Scottish Highlands. The 
shores of the harbor Avere occupied in 1820 by immigrants from the High- 
lands, who are now well located on comfortable farms. The road follows 
the S. Arm, and to the 1. is seen the N. Arm, winding away among th 
tall mountains. Just E. of the N. Arm is St. Anne's Mt., which is 1,070 ft 
high, and pushes forward clifls 960 ft. high nearly to the water's edge. 

" There is no ride on the continent, of the kind, so full of picturesque 
beauty and constant surprises as this around the indentations of St. Anne' 
harbor. High bluffs, bold shores, exquisite sea-views, mountainous ranges, 
delicious air," are found here in abundance. About opposite the light- 
house on the bar, at the mouth of the harbor, is Old Fort Point, on whicl 
the French batteries were established. Near this point is the hamlet of 
Englishtown, chiefly interesting as containing the grave of the once famous 
"Nova-Scotia Giant." The mountains back of Englishtown are over 
1,000 ft. high, and run N. E. to Cape Dauphin, whence they repel the sea. 
ImYaj's Sailing JDii-ections states that " on the N. side the land is very 
high, and ships-of-war may lie so near the shore that a Avater-hose may 
reach the fresh water." As to the harbor, the ancient description of 
Charlevoix still holds good : — 

" Port Ste. Anne, as already stated, has before it a very sure roadstead between 
the Cibou Islands. The port is almost completely closed by a tongue of land, leav- 
hig passage for only a single ship. This port, thus closed, is nearly two leagues in 
circuit, and is oval in form. Ships can ererywhere approach the land, and scarcely 
perceive the winds, on account of its high banks and the surrounding mountains. 
.... The fishing is very abundant ; great quantities of good wood are found there, 
such as maple, beech, wild cherry, and especially oaks very suitable for building 
and masts, being 28-38 ft. high ; marble is common : most of the land good, — in 
Great and Little Labrador, which are only a league and a half off, the soil is very 
fertile, and it can contain a very large number of settlers." 

In St. Anne"s Bay the English ship Chanceivell was wrecked in 1597, and while 
she lay aground " there came aboord many shallops with store of French men, who 
robbed and spoyled all they could lay their hands on, pillaging the poore men euen 
to their very shirts, and vsing them in sauage manner ; whereas they should rather 
as Christians haue aided them in that distresse."' In 1629 this harbor was occupied 
by the Great St. Andreiv and the Marguerite, armed vessels of France, whose crews, 
together with their English prisoners, constructed a fort to command the entrance 
It was armed with 8 cannon, 1,800 pounds of powder, pikes, and muskets, and was 
garrisoned by 40 men. The commander of the fleet raised the arms of the King and 
of Cardinal Richelieu over its walls, and erected a chapel, for whose care he left two 



INGONISH. Route 39. 159 

Jesuits. He then named the harbor St. Anne's. Before the close of that -winter 
more than one third of the troops died of the scurvy, and the commandant assas- 
sinated tiis lieutenant on the parade-ground. In 1634 the Jesuits founded an In- 
dian mission here, but both this and the garrison were afterwards -withdrawn. Some 
years later a new battery and settlement were erected here by Nicholas Denys,Sieur 
de Fronsac, who traded hence with the Indians of the N. of Cape Breton. 

The valley of the N. Arm of St. Anne's was granted, in 1713, to M. de Rou-ville, 
a captain in the infantry of France, and brother of that Hertel de Rou-ville who led 
the forces that destroyed Schenectady, Deerfield, and Haverhill. The X. Arm was 
long called Rouville's River. At a later day Costabelle, Beaucourt, Soubras, and 
other French officers had fishing-stations on the bay. In 1745 a frigate from Com. 
"Warren's fleet (then blockading Louisbourg) entered the harbor, and destroyed all 
the property on its shores. St. Aune"s Bay was afterwards called Port Dauphin by 
the French, and the government long hesitated as to whether the chief fortress of 
Cape Breton should be located here or at Louisbourg. The perfect security of the 
harbor afforded a strong argument in favor of St. Anne's, and it seemed capable of 
being made impregnable at slight expense. After the foundation of Louisbourg 1,000 
cords of wood were sent to that place annually from St. Anne's. 

The road from the Bras d'Or to the N. shore of Cape Breton diverges 
from the St. Anne road befoi-e reaching the harboi', and bears to the N. E., 
along the W. Branch. It rounds the North -Eiver Valley by a great curve, 
and then s-weeps up the harbor-shore, under the imposing cliffs of St. 
Anne's Mt. From St. Anne's to Ingonish the distance is about 40 M., by 
a remarkably picturesque road between the mountains and the Atlantic, 
on a narrow plain, -which recalls Byron's lines: — 

" The mountains look on Marathon, 
And Marathon looks on the sea." 

" Grand and very beautiful are the rocky gorges and ra-vines which furrow the 
hills and precipices between St. Anne's and Ingonish Equally grand and pic- 
turesque is the red syenitic escarpment of Smoky Cape, capped -with the cloud 
from which it derives its name, with many a lofty headland in the background, 
and the peak of the Sugar-loaf Mountain just peeping above the far-distant hori- 
zon." (Brown.) 

The proud headland of Cape Smoky (the Cop Enfume of the French) is 
950 ft. high, and runs sheer down into the sea. To the W. there are peaks 
1,200-1,300 ft. high; and as the road bends around the deep bights to the 
N., it passes under summits more than 1,400 ft. high. Among these mas- 
sive hills, and facing Cape Smoky, is the village of Ingonish, inhabited by 
Scottish Catholic fishermen, 800 of whom are found in this district. On 
the island that shelters the hai-bor is a fixed white light, 237 ft. above the 
sea, and visible for 15 M. 

Ingonish was one of the early stations of the French. In 1729 a great church was 
built here, whose foundations only remain now ; and in 1849 a church-bell, marked 
St. Mcdo, 1729, and weighing 200 pounds, was found buried in the sands of the 
beach. The settlement here was probably ruined by the drawing away of its people 
to aid in holding Louisbourg against the Anglo-American forces. In i740 Ingonish 
-was the second town on the island, and its fleet caught 13,560 quintals of fish. It 
was destroyed, in 1745, by men-of-war from Com. Warren's fleet. 

The highland region back of Ingonish has always l:)een famous for its abundance 
of game, especially of moose and caribou. In the winter of 1789 over 9,000 moose 
•were killed here for the sake of their skins, which brought ten shillings each ; and 
for many years this wholesale slaughter went on, and vessels knew when they were 
approaching the N. shore of Cape Breton by the odor of decaying carcasses which 
came from the shore. Finally the outraged laws of the Province were vindicated by 
the occupation of Ingonish by a body of troops, whose duty it was to restrain the 



168 Route 4-2. WHYCOCOMAGH. 

•whence small cargoes of produce are annually shipped to Newfoundland. 

Near this point is a marble cave, with several chambers 6 - 8 ft. high; and 

foxes are ofreu seen among the hills. It is claimed that valuable deposits 

of magnetic and hematitic iron-ore have been found m this vicinity. 

Stages run SO M. S. W. from Whycocomagh to Port Hastings, on the tame 

and uninteresting road known as the Victoria Line, 

«' What we first saw was an inlet of the Bras d"Or, called by the driver Hogamah 
Bay. At its entrance were long, wooded islands, beyond wliich we saw thebacks 

of "graceful hills, Hke the capes of some poetic sea-coast A peaceful place, this 

Whycocomagh. The lapsing waters of the Bras d"Or made a summer music all 
along the qiiiet street ; the bay lay smiling with its islands in front, and an amphi- 
theatre of hUis rose beyond." (Wakxek's Baddeck.) 

On leaving Whycocomagh the quaint double peaks of Salt ^Mt. are seen 
in retrospective views, and the road soon enters the Shye Glen, a long, 
narrow valley, which is occupied by the Highlanders. The wagon soon 
reaches the picturesque gorge of the Mabou Valley, with the mountainous 
mass of Cape ]\Iabou in front. The Mull River is seen on the 1,, glitter- 
ing far below in the valley, and erelong the widenings of the sea are 
reached, and the traveller arrives at the wretched inn of Mahou. The 
stage for Port Hood (10 31. S.) leaves about midnight, reaching Port Has- 
tings at 9 A. M. (see Eoute 42). 



The steamer Neptune ascends St. Patrick's Channel to "VMiycocomagh 
every week, on its alternate ti'ips passing around from Sydney to the 
Channel by way of the Great Bras d'Or (Sydney to Whycocomagh, §2). 
This route is much easier for the traveller than that by the stage, and 
reveals as much natural beauty, if made during the hours of daylight. 
The passage of the Little Narrows and the approach to Whycocomagh are 
its most striking phases. 

42. The West Coast of Cape Breton.— Port Hood and Mar- 
garee. 

The Royal mail-stage leaves Port Hastings (Plaster Cove) every morning, after 
the arrival of the Hahfax mail. Fare to Port Hood, S 3. 

Distances. —Port Hastings ; Low Point, 7 M. : Creignish, 9 : Long Point, 14 ; 
Judique, IS; Little Jutlique, 24; Port Hood, 2S ; Mabou, 3S ; Broad "Cove Inter- 
vale, 56 ; Margaree Forks, 6S : Margaree, 76 ; Cheticamp, 88. 

The first portion of this route is interesting, as it afibrds frequent pleas- 
ant views of the Sti*ait of Canso and its bright maritime processions. The 
ti-end of the coast is followed from Port Hastings to the N. W., and a suc- 
cession of small hamlets is seen along the bases of the highlands. Just 
beyond Low Point is the Catholic village of the same name, looking out 
over the sea. The road now skirts the wider waters of St, George's Bay, 
over which the dark Antigonish Mts. are visible. Beyond the settlements 
of Creignish and Long Point is the populous district of Judique, inhab- 



POET HOOD. Route ItZ. 169 

ited by Scottish Catholics, who are devoted to the sea and to agriculture. 
The Judiquers are famous throughout the Province for their great stature, 
and are well known to the American fishermen on account of their pug- 
nacity. Yankee crews landing on this coast are frequently assailed by 
these pugilistic Gaels, and the stalwart men of Judique usually come off 
victorious in the fistic encounters. The district has about 2,000 inhab- 
itants. 

Port Hood (two inns) is the capital of Inverness County, and is a pic- 
turesque little seaport of about 800 inhabitants. The American fishermen 
in the Gulf frequently take shelter here during rough weather, and 400 
sail have been seen in the port at one time. There are large coal-deposits 
in the vicinitj'-, which, however, have not yet been developed to any 
extent. The town was founded by Capt. Smith and a party of New- 
Englanders, in 1790. "This port affords the only safe anchorage on the 
W. coast of Cape Breton to the N. of the Gut of Canso," and is marked 
by a red-and-white light, near the highway, on the S. Off shore is Smith's 
Island, which is 2 M. long and 210 ft. high, beyond which are the high 
shores of Henry Island. The Magdalen-Islands steamer touches at Port 
Hood (see Route 49) and a stage-road runs N. E. to Hillsborough, where 
it meets the road from Mabou, and thence passes E. to Whycocomagh (see 
page 16T). 

Mabou (uncomfortable inn) is 10 M. N. E. of Port Hood, and is reached 
by a daily stage passing along the shore-road. It is at the mouth of the 
broad estuary of the Mabou Eiver, amid bold and attractive scenerv, and 
contains about 800 inhabitants. To the N. E. is the highland district of 
Cape Mabou, averaging 1,000 ft. in height, and thickly wooded. The 
Gulf-shore road to Margaree runs between this range and the sea, passing 
the marine hamlets of Cape Mabou and Sight Point. There is an inland 
road, behind the hills, which is entered by following the Whycocomagh 
road to the head of the estuary of the Mabou and then diverging to the 
N. E. This road is traversed by a tri-weekly stage, and leads up by the 
large farming-settlement at Broad Cove Intervale, to the W. shores of 
Lake Ainslie (see page 167), which has several small Scottish hamlets 
among the glens. 

"The angler -who has once driven through Ainslie Glen to the shores of the 
lake, launched his canoe upon its broad waters, and entered its swiftly running 
stream, will never be content to return untU he has fished its successive pools to its 
very mouth." 

A road leads out from near the W. shore of the lake to the village of 
Brocid Cove Chapel, on the Gulf coast, traversing a pass in the highlands. 
The stage runs N. between the hills and the valley of the ]\Iargaree (S. AV. 
Branch), "one of the most romantic and best stocked salmon-rivers in the 
world." Beyond the settlement of Broad Cove Marsh, a road runs out to 
the Gulf abreast of Sea -Wolf Island, on whose chflfs is a fixed light, 300 ft. 
8 



1G2 Jioufc40. BADDECK. 

S. W. tor nearly SO M., between the inonntain? of St. Anne and the high- 
lands of Boulardevie. 

The Xeptunf soon traverses the narrow channel of the Little Bras d'Or 
and entei-s a broader bay. Beyond Gi-ove Point it roaches a beautiful 
sound Avhich is followed for 25 M., and is S-4 M. wide. (It is called St. 
Andreir"$ Channd on the Admiralty charts, but that name is elsewhere ap- 
plied to the East Bay.) Xear George Mt., on the 1., aix> the low shores of 
Long Island ; and the steamer sometimes stops otV Beaver Harbor, or Bois- 
dale. The coni-se is now laid towards the W. shore, rounds Kempt Head, 
the S. extremity of Boularderie Island, and passes CotVm Island on the r., 
beyond which is seen the long channel of the Great Bras d'Or. The course 
is nearly N. W., and lies between Bed Point {v. side) and Mackay Point (1. 
side), which are about 3 M. apart. In front is seen the village of Baddeck, 
while inside of the points Baddeck Bay extends to the r. and St. Patrick's 
Channel to the 1. 

Baddeck I, Jt/tv/ro/)/! /fo»csc, comfortable; Bras d" Or Hot c J) is the capi- 
tal of Victoria County, and the chief village on the Bras d'Or. It has 
tln-ee churches, a court-house, and a quaint little jail, and is the centre of 
a giv>up of farming-settlements Avhose aggregate population is 1,749, The 
harbor can accommodate vessels of 500 tons, and fivm this point several 
carg^^es of pivduce ai-e ammally sent to Newfoundland. Gold has been 
found in the vicinity, and there is a saline spring farther down the shoi-e. 
This localiry was tirst visited by the French, from whom it received the 
name JStrfcc^Mt', since Scotticized to Baddccl- {accent on the last syllable). 
It was tirst settled by the disbanded soldiers of the Koyal Kangers, and in 
1703 there were 10 inhabitants here. 

" Althoiisrh it \vas Sunday, I could not but notice that Baddook wav* a cloan- 
leokiiiir villasro of whito wooilou houses, of i.x>rhaps 7 SOO inhabitautv^; ; that it 
stroti-hod alon-r the shoiv for a mile or more, strajrghn;: otY iuto farm-housos at each 
eud. hiug foi- the luost jvnrt on the slopiug ouvvo of the bay. Thoi-o wew a few 
co\iutry -looking: stoivs and shops, and on the shore three or four rather decayed 
and shaky wharves ran into the vrsiter, and a few schooners lay at anchor near 
them ; and the usual decaying ^v;nvhouses leaned about the- docks. A peaceful and 
jvrhaps a thriviuir place, but not a bustling place 

" Having attributed the quiet of Baddook on Sunday to ivligion, we did not know 
to what to lay the quiot on Monday. l>ut its poacefulness contiiiued. I have no 
doubt that thefavuioi-s bopiu to farm, and the tradci-s to trade, and the siulors to 
sail ; but the touvijit felt that he had come into a place of rest. The promise of the 
red sky the evening before wis fultilled in another n\val day. There was an inspira- 
tion in the air that one looks for rather in the mountain.* than on the sea-cwi^t, it 
seemed like some new and gentle compound of sea-air and land-^vir, which was the 
perfection of bivathiug material. In this atmosphere, which stvms to tiow over all 
these Atlantic isles at this season, one enduivs a givat deal of exeivise with little 
fatigue ; or he is content to sit still and has no filling of sluggishness, Mciv living 
is a kind of happiness, and the ea.-jy-gciing ti-aveller is satistied with little to do and 
less to see. Ix?t the ivader not imderstand that we are nn-ommetiding him to go to 

Baddeck. Far fi-om it Tlunv ai-e few whom it would pay to'go a thousand 

miles for the sake of sitting on the dock at Baddeck when the snn goes down, and 
watching the purple lights on the islands and the distant hills, the ivd flush on the 
horizon and on the lake, and the civeping on of gray twilight. You can sei^ all this 
as well elsewhei"e .' 1 aiu not so sure. There is a harmony of beauty about the 



BADDECK. Route 40. 163 

Bras d'Or at Ba/ldeck which is lacking in many Fcenes of more pretension." 
(CuAELES Dddley Waexee'S Boddtck ; and that Sort of Thing.) 

The tourist who stops at Baddeck should visit the Indian village which 
occupies a gi*assy point near the town. It pertains to one of the clans of 
the Micmac tribe, and usually has 12 - 15 wigwams. Visitors are received 
with a not unkindly indifference, and may here study Indian domestic 
life, the curious manner of carrying babies, and the architecture of the 
wigwam. Some of the people can talk English. The visitor should en- 
deavor to see one of the Micmac Catholic prayer-books, printed (at Vienna) 
in a singular hieroglyphic, and bought by the Indians at the Trappist mon- 
astery in Tracadie. The camp at Baddeck is broken up in the autumn 
and the people retire to their reservations near the hunting-grounds. 

The Micmacs of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton still retain many of their ancient 
customs, and are of purer blood than any other tribe on the Atlantic coast. They 
number about 1,600 (and 1,400 in New Brunswick), and occupy several reservations 
in the Province, where they are cared for and protected by the Dominion govern- 
ment. Under this paternal care (strongly contrasting with the Indian policy of the 
United States) the aborigines are steadily increasing in numbers and approaching a 
better standard of civilization, and are loyal and useful subjects of their " great 
mother," Queen Victoria. The discipline of families is well preserved by the use of 
corporeal punishment. Warm parental affection is a strongly marked feature, and 
the subordination of the women is still maintained, though ameliorated by*the in- 
fluences of civilization. The Micmacs have exchanged their former belief in and 
worship of the hostile principles of good and evil for the creed of the Roman Cath- 
olic Church, of which they are devout communicants. 

Their language has many curious verbal coincidences with that of the Gaelic race, 
and is said to be " copious, flexible, and expressive." Philologists have also traced 
a marked analogy between the Greek and Micmac languages, basing thereon a sharp 
rebuke to Kenan's flippant attack on the aboriginal tongues of America, 

Baddeck to Whycocomagh, see Eoute 41. Baddeck to St. Anne's Bay, 
see Route 39. A road runs from this point nearly N. for 10 M. to the 
forks of the Big Baddeck River, where trout are found. To the N. are 
the Baddeck Mts., an unexplored and savage highland region which ex- 
tends for 60 M. to the N., as far as Cape North, with a breadth of 15-25 
M. This mountain-region has been the favorite hunting-ground for the 
moose and caribou (none of which can be shot between 1874 and 1877, 
according to the Provincial game-law), and it also contains bears, wolves 
and foxes, rabbits and hares, beaver, mink, and muskrats. 

The Margaree River may be reached from Baddeck (in 28 M.) by a 
picturesque road, ascending the long valley, and crossing the Hunter's 
Mt., with fine views over the Bras d'Or. The pleasant rural district of 
the Middle Valley is then traversed, and the road leads through a remark- 
able pass of the hills and enters the rich valley of the Margaree, famous 
for its fishing (see Route 42). Visitors to this district usually board in 
the farm-houses, where plain and substantial fare is given. 

The Middle River lies to the W. of Baddeck, and is approached by the Whyco- 
comagh road (Route 41). The valley has over 1,000 inhabitants, of the Gaelic High- 
land race, many of whom are unacquainted with the English language. Near their 
Bettlements are prolific trout-streams, where fine sport may be enjoyed in the early 
summer. The chief settlements are respectively 12, 13, and 16 M. from Baddeck, 
and near the head of the river is an undeveloped gold district. A few miles up this 



PEII^CE EDWAED ISLAK^D. 



Prince Edward Island is situated in the southern portion of the 
Gulf of St. Lawrence, and is bounded on the S. by the Northumberland 
Strait. It is 30 M. from Cape Breton Island, 15 M. from Nova Scotia, and 
9 M. from New Brunswick, and is surrounded by deep and navigable 
waters. The extreme length is 130 J\I. ; the extreme breadth, 34 M. ; and 
the area is 2,133 square miles. The surface is low or gently undulating, 
with small hills in the central parts, and the soil is mostly derived from 
red sandstone, and is very fertile. The air is balmy and bracing, less 
foggy than the adjacent shores, and milder than that of New Brunswick. 
The most abundant trees are the evergreens, besides which the oak and 
maple are found. The shores are deeply indented by harbors, of which 
those toward the Gulf are obstructed by sand, but those on the S. are com- 
modious and accessible. 

The island is divided into 3 counties, including 13 districts, or 67 town- 
ships and 3 royalties. It has 94,021 inhabitants, of whom 40,765 are Cath- 
olics, 29,579 are Presb^'terians, 8,361 Methodists, and 7,220 Episcopalians. 
The majority of the people are Gaelic, and there ate 300-400 IMicmac 
Indians. The local government is conducted by the Legislative Council 
(13 members) and the House of Assembly (28 members), and the political 
parties which form about the petty questions of the island display a par- 
tisan acrimony and employ a caustic journalism such as are not seen even 
in the United States. The Province is provided with governor and cab- 
inet, supreme and vice-admiralty courts, a public debt and a public do- 
main, on the same plan as those of the great Provinces of Quebec and 
Ontario. The laud is in a high state of cultivation, and nearly all the 
population is rural. Manufactories can scarcel}' be said to exist, but the 
fisheries are carried on to some extent, and shipbuilding receives consid- 
erable attention. The roads are good in dry weather, and lead through 
quiet rural scenery, broken ever}^ few miles by the blue expanses of the 
broad bays and salt-water lagoons. The chief exports consist of oats, 
wheat, barley, hay, potatoes, fish, live-stock, and lumbei-. 

It has been claimed that Prince Edward Island was discovered by 
Cabot, in 1497, but thei-e is no certainty on this subject. It was visited 
by Champlain on St. John's Day, 1608, and received from him the name 
of L' Isle St. Jean. The whole countrv was then covered with statelv for- 



PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 173 

ests, abounding in game, and was inhabited by a clan of the Micmac 
Indians, who called it Epayguit ("Anchored on the Wave"). It was 
included in the broad domain of Acadia, over which France and England 
waged such disastrous wars, but was not settled for over two centuries 
after Cabot's voyage. In 1663 this and the Magdalen Islands were granted 
to M. Doublet, a captain in the French navy, who erected summer fishing- 
stations here, but abandoned them every autumn. After England had 
Avrested Nova Scotia from France, a few Acadians crossed over to L'Isle 
St. Jean and became its first settlers. In 1728 there were 60 French fam- 
ilies here; in 1745 there were about 800 inhabitants; and during her death- 
struggles with the Anglo- AzTierican armies, the Province of Quebec drew 
large supplies of grain and cattle from these shores. The capital was at 
Portia Joie (near Charlottetown), where there was a battery and garrison, 
dependent on the military commandant of Louisbourg. It is claimed by 
Haliburton that the island was captured by the New-Englanders in 1745, 
but it is known only that Gen. Pepperell ordered 400 of his soldiers to sail 
from Louisbourg and occupy L'Isle St. Jean. It does not appear whether 
or not this was done. After the expulsion of the Acadians.from Nova 
Scotia, many of them fled to this island, which contained 4,100 inhab- 
itants in 1758. In that year Loi'd Eollo took possession of it, according to 
the capitulation of Louisbourg, with a small military force. 

In 1763 the island was ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of Fon- 
tainebleau, and became a part of the Province of Nova Scotia. It was 
surveyed in 1764-6, and was granted to about 100 English and Scottish 
gentlemen, who were to pay quitrents and to settle their lands with 1 per- 
son to every 200 acres, within 10 years, the colonists to be Protestants 
from the continent of Europe. When the 10 years had elapsed, many of 
the estates were forfeited or sold to other parties, and only 19 of the 67 
townships had any settlers. In 1770 the island was made a separate Prov- 
ince, and in 1773 the first House of Assembly met. In 1775 the Americans 
captured the capital, and in 1778 four Canadian companies were, stationed 
there. In 1780 the Province was called New Ireland, but the King vetoed 
this name, and in 1800 it was entitled Prince Edward Island, in honor of 
His Royal Highness Prince Edward, Duke of Kent, then Commander of the 
Forces in British North America (afterwards father of Queen Victoria). In 
1803 the Earl of Selkirk sent over 800 Highlanders, and other proprietors set- 
tled colonies on their domains. The complicated questions arising from the 
old proprietary estates have engrossed most of the legislation of the island 
for 70 years, and are being slowly settled by the purchase of the lands by 
the government. Prince Edward Island long refused to enter the Dominion 
of Canada, but yielded at last on very favorable terms, one of the condi- 
tions being that the Confederacy should build a railway throughout the 
Province. 



IGG Boufe 40. THE BEAS D'OK. 

Ponys Basin by a range of massive highlands on the X. The N. shore 
hills are 700-770 ft. high, and those on the S. shore are 250 - 620 ft. high. 
The shores are thinly inhabited, and the only hamlets are at the head of 
the channel. (For the rest, the Editor has all these shoi-es minntely ont- 
lined on the Admii-alty chart uom- before him; bnt Avhat shall it profit the 
traveller to know the precise locality of the Crammond Isles, or Ciilder 
Hill, or Ballam Head?) 

" The only other thing of note the Bras d'Or offered us before we reacheil West 
Buy wai! the finest sbow'of medusiv or jeily-fish that could he produced. At first 
there M-ere dozens of the.-e ditk-shaped transparent creatures, aud then hundiviis, 
starring the water hke mai-guerites sprinkled on a meadow, and of sizes from that 
of a teacup to a dinner-plate. We soon ran into a school of them, a couventiou, a 
herd a*: extensive as the vast buffalo droves on the plains, a collection as thick as 
clover-blossoms in a field in June, miles of them apparently ; and at length the boat 
had to push its way through a m;.5S of them which covered the water like the leaves 
of the pond-lily, and filk\r the deeps fiir down with their beautiful contracting and 
expandius: forms. I did not suppose there were so many jelly-fishes iu all the world." 
(Wakxek's Rithhck.) 

'•The scenery of the lakes is exceedingly striking and diversified. Long rooky- 
cliffs and escarpments rise iu some places abruptly from the water's edge ; in others, 
undulating or rolUug hills predominate, fringed on the shores by low white cliffs of 
gypsum or ivd conglomerate ; whilst the deep basins and channels, which branch 
oil iu all directions from the central ex^vinse of waters, studdett with innumerable 
islets covered with a rich growth of spruce aud hemlock, present views the most 
picturesque and diversified imaginable."' (Browx.) 

" The scenery of this vast inlet is iu some places beautifully picturesque, and ia 
some others monotonous and uninteresting, but in many parts of a sublime charac- 
ter, which exhibits the sombre gloom of pine forests, the luxuriant verdure of broad 
valleys aud wooded mountaius. and the wild features of lofty promontories frowning 
iu stubborn ruggedness over the waters of the rivers and inlets." (,^1'Gregor.) 

"So wide is it, and so indented by broad bays and deep coves, that a cojisting 
journey around it is equal in extent to a voyage across the Atlantic. Besides the 
distant mountains that rise proudly from the remote shoivs, there are many noble 
islauds in its expanse, and forest-coveivd peninsulas, bordered with beaches of glit- 
tering white pebbles. But over all this Avide landscape there broods a spirit of 
primeval solitude For, strange as it may seem, the Golden Arm is a very use- 
less piece of water in this part of the world ; highly fiivored as it is by nature, land- 
looked, deep enough for vessels of all burden, easy of access on the Gulf side, free 
from fogs, aud only separated from the ocean at its southern end by a narrow strip of 
land, about f M. wide ; abounding in timber, co;\l, aud gypsum, and valuable for its 
fisheries, especially in winter, ye\ the Bras d'Or is undeveloped for want of that 
element which seems to be alien to the Colonies, namely, enterprise.'^ (Cozzexs.) 

The Bras cV Or to Eallfax. 
"\Mien the steamer an-ives at West Bay, a collection of singularly as- 
sorted vehicles is seen waiting by the wharf, and the passengers are con- 
veyed on this motley train over 13 M. of uninteresting country to Port 
Hawkesbury (see page 143). The morning mail-stage may be taken from 
the opposite side of the Strait of Canso to Antigonish and New Glasgow 
(see Eoute 32); thence by railway to Halifax. But a pleasauter I'oute (In 
calm weather) is to go on board the P. E. Island steamboat, which arrives 
during the evening, and pass to Pictou, through St. George's Bay and the 
Xor thumb erland Strait. Pictou to Halifax, see Koute 31. 



ST. PATRICK'S CHANXEL. Route 4I. 167 

41. Baddeck to Mabou and Port Hood. — St Patrick's 
Channel and Whycocomagh. 

This route is traversed by the Royal mail-stage on Monday and "Wednesday, leav- 
ing Baddeck at noon, and reaching Whycocomagh after 4 o'clock, and Mabou at 9 
p. M. The distance is about 50 M. ; the'fare is § 2.50. The Royal mail-stage on this 
route is a one-horse wagon with a single seat, so that the accommodations for travel 
are limited. 

Mr. Warner thus describes the road between "Whycocomagh and Baddeck: " From 
the time we first struck the Bras d'Or for thirty miles we rode in constant sight of 
its magnificent water. Now we were two hundred feet above the water, on the hiU- 
side skirting a point or following an indentation ; and now we were diving into a 
narrow valley, crossing a stream, or turning a sharp corner, but always with the 
Bras d'Or.in view, the afternoon sun shining on it, softening the outlines of its em- 
"bracing hills, casting a shadow from its wooded islands. Sometimes we opened upon 
a broad water plain bounded by the Watchabaktchkt hills, and again we looked over 
hill after hill receding into the soft and hazy blue of the land beyond the great mass 
of the Bras d'Or. The reader can compare the view and the ride to the Bay of 
Naples and the Cornice Road ; we did nothing of the sort ; we held on to the seat, 
prayed that the harness of the pony might not break, and gave constant expression 
to our wonder and delight." 

St. Patrick's Channel is 20 M. long by 1-3 M. wide, and is made 
highly picturesque by its deep coves, wooded points, and lofty shores. Its 
general course is followed by the highway, affording rich views from some 
of the higher grades. After leaving Baddeck the road strikes across the 
country for about 5 M. to the Baddeck River, in whose upper waters are 
large trout. Beyond this point the road swings around the blue expanse 
of Indian Bay, approaching a bold hill-range 650 ft. high, and crosses the 
Middle River, at whose mouth is an Indian reservation. Frequent glimpses 
are afforded of St. Patrick's Channel, well to the 1. across the green mead- 
ows. A range of lofty heights now forces the road nearer to the water, 
and it passes within 2 M. of the remarkable strait known as the Little 
Narrows, about which there are 150 inhabitants. 

A road leads N. "W. 5 M. into Ainslie Glen, and to the great Ainslie ILake, 
which covers 25 square miles, and is the source of the Margaree River. Its shores 
are broken and rugged, and are occupied by a hardy population of Highlanders. 
Petroleum springs have been found in this vicinity (see page 169), 

Beyond the Little Narrows is a magnificent basin, 15 M. long and 3-5 
M. wide, into whose sequestered and forest-bound waters large ships make 
their way, and are here laden with timber for Europe. On his second trip 
up this Basin, the Editor was startled, on rounding a promontory, at seeing 
a large Liverpool ship lying here, at anchor, with her yard-arms almost 
among the trees. The road runs around the successive spurs of the Salt 
Mt., a massive ridge on the N. shore of the Basin, and many very attractive 
views are gained from its upper reaches. The water is of a rich blue, 
partly owing to its depth, which is from 3 to 20 fathoms. 

Whycocomagh. {Inverness House) is a Scottish Presbyterian hamlet, 
situated at the N. W. angle of the Basin, and surrounded by pretty Trosach- 
like scenery. There are about 400 inhabitants in this neighborhood, 



loS :: - AVHYCOCOMAGH. 

whoroo ?:r.a".". o;-...:\\^> of pivduoe are annualh* shippovi to Newfoundland. 
Near till? point ii^ a marbio oavo, witli sovonU chambers 6 - S t\. high ; and 
foxo^ are oiten jeen among the hills. It is claimed that \-aluable deposits 
01 magnetic and hematitic iron-ore have been found in this vicinity. 
Stain's run SO M. S. W. fann Whycocomagh to Tort Hastings, on the tamo 
and uninteresting road known as the Victoria Line. 

*• "WTiat -wv first saw was an inlet of the Bras d*Or, called by the driver Uosranish 
Bav. At its entrance wvre loug. wvHxied islauds. Ivy cud which we saw the' Ivicks 
of 'irracet\il hills, hke the csjvs of s<>me jHVtic sivi-c^xist .... A ixMuvful pl.nce. this 
■\Vhrcoconiajrh. The lav^ing waters i^' the Bras d'Or made a sunu«er music all 
along the tjuiet street ; thelvty l.-»y smiling with its islands iu Croat, and an aniphi- 
tieatre of hills roA- Ivyoud." O^-*-^)^"* Ba<Uifck^) 

On leavmg M'hycocomagh tlie quaint double peaks of Salt Mt. ar? seen 
in retrospective views, and the ro:td soon eutei-s the (Si-ytf GUn, a long, 
narrow \-alley, which is occupied by the Higlilander^. The wagv)n soon 
re^iches the pictmvsque gorge of the Mabott Valktf, with the mountainous 
ma^s of Cape Mabou in fivnt. The Mull Kiver is seen on the 1., glitter- 
ing far below iu the vaJley, and erelong the widenings of the se^i are 
reached, and the traveller arrives at tlie wn>tched inn of Mabou, The 
stage for Port Hood (10 M. S.) leaves about midnight, reaching Port Has- 
tinsrs at 9 a. m. (see Route i'l). 



The steamer Xcptune ascends St. Patrick's Chatmel to ^^1n-cocomagh 
every week, on its alternate trips passing awund from Sydney to the 
Channel by way of the Great Bras d'Or (Sydney to Whycocomagh, $2). 
This route is much easier for tlie traveller than that by the stage, and 
reveals as much natural beauty, if made during the hoin-s of daylight. 
The passage of the Little Narrows and the approach to WhycocomJigh are 
its most striking phases. 

42. The West Coast of Cape Breton. — Port Hood and Mar- 
g'aree. 

The Koyal mail-stasre leaves Tort llastinsrs (Pl:\st<^r Cove'* oYovy uiorniua:. .nfter 
the .nrrival of the Haliiax mail. Fair to Port lloixl, S3. 

Distances. —Port Hastintrs ; Low Point, 7 M. : Otvisrnish, ; Loixg Point, li ; 
Juduino, IS; Little .Uulivino, 124; Port IUhxI, -S ; ALihou, SS ; Brx>ad Cove luter- 
T:\le, 5(5 ; Marcaree Forks, 6S ; M;vrg:vree, 7C : Ohotiosmip, SS. 

The first portion of this route is intei-esting, as it aft'onls frequent pleas- 
ant views of the Strait of Causo and its bright maritime pixvessions. The 
trend of the coast is followed from Port Hastings to the N. W,, and a suc- 
cession of small hamlets is seen along the bases of the highlands. Just 
beyond Low Point is the Catholic villagv of the same name, looking out 
over the sea. The road now skirts the wider waters of St. George's Bay, 
over which the dark Antigonish Mts. aiv visible. Beyond the settlements 
of Creignish and Long Point is the populous district of Jtuiujue, inhab- 



PORT HOOD. Route 42. 169 

ited by Scottish Catholics, who are devoted to the sea and to agriculture. 
The Judiquers are famous throughout the Province for their great stature, 
and are well known to the American fishermen on account of their pug- 
nacity. Yankee crews landing on this coast are frequently assailed by 
these pugilistic Gaels, and the stalwart men of Judique usually come off 
victorious in the fistic encounters. The district has about 2,000 inhab- 
itants. 

Port Hood (two inns) is the capital of Inverness County, and is a pic- 
turesque little seaport of about 800 inhabitants. The American fishermen 
in the Gulf frequently take shelter here during rough weather, and 400 
sail have been seen in the port at one time. There are large coal-deposits 
in the vicinity, which, however, have not yet been developed to any 
extent. The town was founded by Capt. Smith and a party of New- 
Knglanders, in 1790. "This port affords the only safe anchorage on the 
W. coast of Cape Breton to the N. of the Gut of Canso," and is marked 
by a red-and-white light, near the highway, on the S. Off shore is Smith's 
Island, which is 2 M. long and 210 ft. high, beyond which are the high 
shores of Henry Island. The Magdalen-Islands steamer touches at Port 
Hood (see Route 49) and a stage-road runs N. E. to Hillsborough, where 
it meets the road from Mabou, and thence passes E. to Whycocomagh (see 
page 1G7). 

Mabou (uncomfortable inn) is 10 M. N. E. of Port Hood, and is reached 
by a daily stage passing along the shore-road. It is at the mouth of the 
broad estuary of the Mabou River, amid bold and attractive scenery, and 
contains about 800 inhabitants. To the N. E. is the highland district of 
Cape Mabou, averaging 1,000 ft. in height, and thickly wooded. The 
Gulf-shore road to Margaree runs between this range and the sea, passing 
the marine hamlets of Cape Mabou and Sight Point. There is an inland 
road, behind the hills, which is entered by following the Whycocomagh 
road to the head of the estuary of the Mabou and then diverging to the 
N. E. This road is traversed by a tri-weckly stage, and leads up by the 
large farming-settlement at Broad Cove Intervale, to the W. shores of 
Lake Ainslie (see page 167), which has several small Scottish hamlets 
among the glens. 

"Tho angler -who has once driven through Ainslie Glen to the shores of the 
lake, launched his canoe upon its broad waters, and entered its swiftly running 
stream, will never be content to return until he has fished its successive pools to its 
■vei'y mouth." 

A road leads out from near the W. shore of the lake to the village of 
Broad Cove Chapel, on the Gulf coast, traversing a pass in the highlands. 
Tlic stage runs N. between the hills and the valley of the Margaree (S. W. 
Branch), "one of the most romantic and best stocked salmon-rivers in the 
world." Beyond the settlement of Broad Cove Marsh, a road runs out to 
the Gulf abreast of Sea -Wolf Island, on whose cliffs is a fixed light, 300 ft. 
8 



1 70 Boutc 42. 



MARGAKEE. 



high. Margaree Forks is a rural village at the junction of the N. E. snd 
S. W. Branches of tlie famous Margaree River, -where salmon abound 
from June 15 until July 15. 

" In Cape Breton the beautiful Margaree is one of the most noted streams for sea- 
trout, and its clear water and picturesijue scenery, winding through intervale mead- 
ows dotted with groups of witch-elm, and backed by wooded hills over a thousand 
feet in height, entitle it to pre-eminence amongst the rivers of the Gulf." 

There are several smaU hamlets in this region, with a total population 
of over 4,000. ^Margaree is on the harbor of the same name, near the 
Chimney-Corner coal-mines, 48 M. from Port Hood, and has a small fleet 
of fishiug-vessels. A shore-road runs X. E. 12 M. to Cheticamp, a district 
containing about 2,000 inhabitants, most of whom are of the old Acadian 
race. It is a fishing station of Robin & Co., an ancient and powerful 
commercial house on the Isle of Jersey; and was founded by them in 1784, 
and settled by Acadian refugees from Prince Edward Island. The harbor 
is suitable for small vessels, and is fonned by Cheticamp Island, sheltering 
the mouth of the Cheticamp River. There is a powerful revolving white 
light on the S. point of the island, 150 ft. high, and visible for 20 M. 
at sea. 

X. E. and E. of Cheticamp extends the great highland-wilderness of 
the X. part of Cape Breton (see page 163), an unexplored and trackless 
land of forests and mountains. There are no roads above Cheticamp, and 
the most northerly point of the Province, Cope St. Lawrence (see page 
159), is 30 M. X. E. by E. 1^ E. from the X. part of Cheticamp Island. 



The terrible storm which swept the Gulf of St. Lawrence in August, 1873, and 
■wrecked hundreds of vessels, attained its greatest force around the island of Cape 
Breton and in the narrow seas to the W. , towards Prince Edward's Island and the 
Magdalen Island. It lasted only a few hours, but was fearfully destructive in its 
efifeets, and strewed all these coasts with drowned mariners The following spirited 
poem is inserted here, by the kind permission of its author, Mr. Edmund C. Sted- 
man. 

Tlie Iiord's-Day Gale. 



In Gloucester port lie fishing craft,— 
More staunch and trim were never seen : 

They are sharp before and sheer abaft. 
And true their lines the masts between. 

Alons the wharves of Gloucester Town 

Their fares are lishtly landed down. 
And the laden flakes to sunward lean. 

"Well know the men each cruising-CTOund, 
And where the cod and mackerel be : 

Old Eastern Point the schooners round 
And leave Cape Ann on the larboard lee ; 

Sound are the planks, the hearts are bold. 

That brave Decembers surges cold 
On George's shoals in the" outer sea. 

And some must sail to the banks far north 
And set their trawls for the hungry cod,- 

In the ghostly fog creep back and lorth 
By shrouded paths no foot hath trod ; 

ITpon the crews the ice-winds blow, 

The bitter sleet, the frozen snow, — 
Their lives are in the hand of God ; 



New England ! New England ! 

Needs stiii they must, so brave and poor, 
Or June be warm or Winter storm. 

Lest a wolf gnaw through the cottage-door I 
Three weeks at home, three long months gone. 
While tlie patient good-wives sleep alone. 

And wake to hear the breakers roar. 

The Grand Bank gathers in its dead, — 
The deep sea-sand is their winding-sheet ; 

Who does not Georges billows dread 
That dash together the drifting fleet ? 

Who does not Ion? to hear, in May, 

The pleasant wash of Saint Lawrence Bay, 
The fairest ground where tishermeu meet ? 

There the west wave holds the red sunlight 
Till the bells at home are rung for nine : 

Short, short the watch, and caliii the night ; 
The fiery northern streamers shine ; 

The eastern sky anon is gold, 

And winds froin piny forests old. 
Scatter the white mists off the brine. 



THE LORD'S-DAY GALE. Route 42. 171 



The Province craft with ours at mom 
Are mingled when the vapors shift ; 

All day, bv breeze and current borne, 
Across the bay the sailors drift ; 

With toll and seine its wealth the/ win, — 

The dappled, silvery spoil come in 
Fast as their hands can haul and lift 

New England : New England ! 

Thou lovest well thine ocean main 1 
It spreadeth its locks ainons thy rocks. 

And long against thy heart hath lain ; 
Thy ships upon its bosom ride 
And feel the heaving of its tide ; 

To thee its secret speech is plain. 

Cape Breton and Edward Isle between, 
In strait and gulf the schooners lay ; 

The sea was all at peace, I ween. 
The night before that August day ; 

Was never a Gloucester skipper there. 

But thought erelong, with a right good fare. 
To sail for home from Saint Lawrence Bay. 

New England ! New England ! 

Thy giant's love was turned to hate I 
The winds control his fickle soul, 

And in his wrath he hath no mate. 
Thy shores his angry scourges tear, 
And for thy children in his care 

The sudden tempests lie in wait. 

The East Wind gathered all unknown, — 
A thick sea cloud his course before ; 

lie left by night the frozen zone 
And smote the cliffs of Labrador ; 

He lashed the coasts on either hand. 

And betwixt the Cape and Newfoundland 
Into the Bay his armies pour. 

He caught our helpless cruisers there 
As a gray wolf harries the huddling fold ; 

A sleet — a darkness — filled the air, 
A shuddering wave before it rolled : 

That Lord s-Day morn it was a breeze,— 

At noon, a blast'that shook the seas, — 
At night — a wind of Death took hold ! 

It leaped across the Breton bar, 
A death-wind from the stormy East I 

It scarred the land, and whirled afar 
The sheltering thatch of man and beast ; 

It mingled rick and roof and tree. 

And like a besom swept the sea. 
And churned the waters into yeast. 

From Saint Paul's Light to Edward's Isle 
A thousand craft it smote amain ; 

And some against it strove the while. 
And more to make a port were fain : 

The mackerel-gulls flew screaming past. 

And the stick that bent to the noonday blast 
Was split by the sundown hurricane. 



Woe, woe to those whom the islands pen 1 
In vain they shun the double capes ; 

Cruel are the reefs of Magdalen : 
The Wolf 6 white fang what prey escapes? 

The Grin stone grinds the bones of some, 

And Coffin Isle is craped with foam ; — 
On Deadman B shore are fearful shapes ! 

O, what can live on the open sea. 
Or moored in port the gale outride? 

The very craft that at anchor be 
Are dragged along by the swollen tidel 

The great storm-wave came rolling west. 

And tossed the vessels on its crest : 
The ancient bounds its might defied 1 

The ebb to check it had no power ; 

The surf ran up to an untold height ; 
It rose, nor yielded, hour by hour, 

A night and day, a day and night ; 
Far up the seething shores it cast 
The wreck of hull and spar and mast. 

The strangled crews, — a woful sight 1 

There were twenty and more of Breton sail 

Fast anchored oh one mooring-ground ; 
Each lay within his neighbor s hail. 
When the thick of the tempest closed them 
round : 
All sank at once in the gaping sea, — 
Somewhere on the shoals their corses be, 
Tne foundered hulks, and the seamen 
drowned. 

On reef and bar our schooners drove 
Before the wind, before the swell ; 

By the steep sand-clift's their ribs were stove, — 
Long, long their crews the tale shall tell ! 

Of the Gloucester fleet are wrecka threescore; 

Of the Province sail two hundred more 
Were stranded in that tempest fell. 

The bedtime bells in Gloucester Town 
That Sabbath night ran^ soft and clear ; 

The sailors' children laid them down,— 
Dear Lordl their sweet prayers couldst thou 
hear '/ 

'T is said that gently blew the winds ; 

The good-wives, through the seaward blinds. 
Looked down the bay and had no fear. 

New England ! New England ! 

Thy ports their dauntless seamen mourn ; 
The twin capes yearn for their return 

Who never shall be thither borne ; 
Their orphans whisper as they meet ; 
The homes are dark in many a street. 

And women move in weeds forlorn. 

And wilt thou fail, and dost thou fear ? 

Ah, no : though widows' cheeks are pale, 
The lads shall say : " Another year, 

And we shall be of age to sail ! " 
And the mothers' hearts shall fill with pride, 
Though tears drop fast for them who died 

When the fleet was wrecked in the Lord's- 
Day gale. 



PEINCE EDWAED ISLAM). 



Prince Edward Isla>t) is situated in the southern portion of the 
Gulf of St. Lawrence, and is bounded on the S. by the Northumberland 
Strait. It is 30 M. from Cape Breton Island, 15 M. fi-om Nova Scotia, and 
9 M. from New Brunswick, and is surrounded by deep and navigable 
waters. The extreme length is 130 M.; the extreme breadth, 34 M.; and 
the area is 2,133 square miles. The surface is low or gently undulating, 
with small hills in the central parts, and the soil is mostly derived from 
red sandstone, and is very fertile. The air is balmy and bracing, less 
foggy than the adjacent shores, and milder than that of New Brunswick. 
The most abundant trees are the evergreens, besides which the oak and 
maple are found. The shores are deeply indented by harbors, of which 
those toward the Gulf are obstructed by sand, but those on the S. are com- 
modious and accessible. 

The island is divided into 3 counties, including 13 districts, or 67 town- 
ships and 3 royalties. It has 94,021 inhabitants, of whom 40,765 are Cath- 
olics, 29,579 are Presbyterians, 8,361 Methodists, and 7,220 Episcopalians. 
The majority of the people are Gaelic, and there aTe 300-400 ]\Iicmac 
Indians. The local government is conducted by the Legislative Council 
(13 members) and the House of Assembly (28 members), and the political 
parties which form about the petty questions of the island display a par- 
tisan acrimony and employ a caustic journalism such as are not seen even 
in the United States. The Province is provided with governor and cab- 
inet, supreme and vice-admiralty courts, a public debt and a public do- 
main, on the same plan as those of the great Provinces of Quebec and 
Ontario. The land is in a high state of cultivation, and nearly all the 
population is rural. Manufactories can scarcely be said to exist, but the 
fisheries are carried on to some extent, and shipbuilding receives consid- 
erable attention. The roads are good in dry weather, and lead through 
quiet rural scenery, broken every few miles by the blue expanses of the 
broad bays and salt-water lagoons. The chief exports consist of oats, 
wheat, barle}'', hay, potatoes, fish, live-stock, and lumber. 

It has been claimed that Prince Edward Island was discovered by 
Cabot, in 1497, but there is no certainty on this subject. It was visited 
by Champlain on St. John's Day, 1608, and received from him the name 
of L^ Isle St. Jean. The whole country was then covered with stately for- 



PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 173 

ests, abounding in game, and was inhabited by a clan of the Micmac 
Indians, who called it Epayguit ("Anchored on the AVave"). It Avas 
included in the broad domain of Acadia, over Avhich France and England 
waged such disastrous wars, but was not settled for over two centuries 
after Cabot's voj-age. In 1663 this and the Magdalen Islands were granted 
to M. Doublet, a captain in the French navy, who erected summer fishing- 
stations here, but abandoned them every autumn. After England had 
wrested Nova Scotia from France, a few Acadians crossed over to L'Isle 
St. Jean and became its first settlers. In 1728 there were 60 French fam- 
ilies here; in 1745 there Avere about 800 inhabitants; and during her death- 
struggles with the Anglo- American armies, the Province of Quebec drew 
large supplies of grain and cattle from these shores. The capital was at 
Port la Joie (near Charlottetown), where there was a battery and garrison, 
dependent on the military commandant of Louisbourg. It is claimed by 
Haliburton that the island Avas captured by the New-Englanders in 1745, 
but it is known only that Gen. Pepperell ordered 400 of his soldiers to sail 
from Louisbourg and occupy L'Isle St. Jean. It does not appear Avhether 
or not this was done. After the expulsion of the Acadians, from Nova 
Scotia, many of them fled to this island, Avhich contained 4,100 inhab- 
itants in 1758. In that year Lord Eollo took possession of it, according to 
the capitulation of Louisbom-g, Avith a small military force. 

In 1763 the island Avas ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of Fon- 
tainebleau, and became a part of the Province of No\-a Scotia. It Avas 
surveyed in 1764-6, and Avas granted to about 100 English and Scottish 
gentlemen, who Avere to pay quitrents and to settle their lands Avith 1 per- 
son to every 200 acres, Avithin 10 years, the colonists to be Protestants 
from the continent of Europe. When the 10 years had elapsed, many of 
the estates Avere forfeited or sold to other parties, and only 19 of the 67 
townships had any settlers. In 1770 the island was made a separate Prov- 
ince, and in 1773 the first House of Assembly met. In 1775 the Americans 
captured the capital, and in 1778 four Canadian companies were. stationed 
there. In 1780 the Province was called New Ireland, but the King vetoed 
this name, and in 1800 it Avas entitled Prince Edward Island, in honor of 
His Royal Highness Prince EdAvard, Duke of Kent, then Commander of the 
Forces in British North America (afterAvards father of Queen Victoria). In 
1803 the Earl of Selkirk sent over 800 Highlanders, and other proprietors set- 
tled colonies on their domains. The complicated questions arising from the 
old proprietary estates have engrossed most of the legislation of the island 
for 70 years, and are being sloAvly settled by the purchase of the lands by 
the government. Prince Edward Island long refused to enter the Dominion 
of Canada, but yielded at last on very favorable terms, one of the condi- 
tions being that the Confederacy should build a railway throughout the 
Province. 



174 Route 4^. CAPE TRAVERSE. 

43. Shediac to Summerside and Charlottetown. — The 
Northumberland Strait. 

St. John to Shediac, see Routes 14 and 16. 

It is probable that steamers of the P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company 
will leave Shediac (Point du Chene) every day during the summer season, 
on arrival of the morning train from St. John. The fare from Shediac to 
Summerside is Sl-SO ; and from Summerside to Charlottetown, 3 1-50. 

The distance from Shediac to Summerside is 35 M. Soon after leaving 
the wharf at Point du Chene the steamer passes out through Shediac Bay, 
find enters the Northumberland Strait. The course is a little N. of E., and 
the first point of the island to come into sight is Cape Egmont, with its 
lines of low sandstone cliffs. The traveller now sees the significance 
of the ancient Indian name of this sea-girt land, £payguit, signifying 
"Anchored on the Wave." 

After passing Cape Egmont on the 1., the steamer enters Bedeque, or 
Halifax, Bay, and i-uns in toward the low shores on the N. E. After pass- 
ing Indian Point and Island it enters the harbor of Summerside, with the 
estuary of the Dunk Kiver on the r. 

Summerside, see page 179. 

Upon leaving Summerside the steamer passes Indian Point on the 1., 
and, after running by Salutation Point, enters the Northumberland Strait. 
The course is nearly S. E. 9 M. from Salutation Point is Cape Traverse, 
and on the S. shore is Cape Tormentine. At this, the narrowest part of 
the strait, the mails are carried across by ice-boats in winter, and passen- 
gers are transported by the same perilous route. A submarine cable un- 
derlies the strait at this point. It is 20 j\I. from Cape Traverse to St. 
Peter's Island, and along the island shores are the villages of Tryon, Cra- 
paud, De Sable, and Bonshaw. On passing St. Peter's Island, the steamer 
enters Hillsborough Bay and runs N-, with Orwell and Pownal Bays open- 
ing on the E. 

" Charlottetown Harbor, at its entrance between the cliffs of Blockhouse 
and Sea-Trout Point, is 450 fathoms wide, and, in sailing in, York River 
running northward, the Hillsborough Eiver eastwardly, and the Elliot to the 
westward, suiTound the visitor with beautiful effects, and as he glides 
smoothly over their confluence, or what is called the Three Tides, he Avill 
feel, perhaps, that he has seen for the fii-st time, should a setting sun gild 
the horizon, a combination of color and effect which no artist could ade- 
quately represent." 

Charlottetown, see page 175. 



CHAKLOTTETOWN. Route 44. 175 

44. Picton to Prince Edward Island. 

To Charlotleioicn. 

The steamships of the P. E. I. Steam Xavigation Company leave Pictou 
for Charlottetown every Wednesday and Saturday (hours not yet regu- 
lated). Fare, $ 2. The distance is a little over 50 M. 

Soon after leaving the safe and pleasant harbor of Pictou, the steamer 
approaches Pictou Island^ a hilly and well-wooded land 4 j\I. long, with a 
lighthouse and some farms. On the W. is Caribou Island, consisting of 
several islets united by sand-bars, and guarded by a lighthouse. There are 
pleasant views of the receding highlands of Nova Scotia ; and the vessel 
moves easily through the quiet waters of the Northumberland Strait. 
"Prince Edward Island, as we approached it, had a pleasing aspect, and 
none of that remote friendlessness which its appearance on the map con- 
veys to one ; a warm and sandy land, in a genial climate, without fogs, 
we are informed." 

After passing (on the r.) the long low Point Prim, the steamer sweeps 
around to the N. into Hillsborough Bay, and enters the harbor of Char- 
lottetown. 



Pictou to Georgetown. 

The P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company's steamships leave Pictou for 
Georgetown every Tuesday and Friday; leaving Georgetown for Pictou 
on the same days. Fare from port to port, $ 2. The distance is nearly 
70 M. 

The chief incidents of this short voyage are the views of Pictou Island ; 
the approach to Cape Bear, the S. E. point of P. E. Island, backed by 
hills 200 ft. high ; and the ascent of the noble sheet of Cardigan Bay, be- 
tween Boughton and Panmure Islands. 

Georgetown, see page 181. 



45. Charlottetown. 

Arrival. — The steamer passes between St. Peter's Island (1.) and Governor's 
Island (r.) and ascends Hillsborough Bay for about 6 M. It then passes between 
Blockhouse Point (on the 1., with a lighthouse) and Sea-Trout Point, and enters the 
harbor of Charlottetown, where there are 7-10 fathoms of water. Powerful cur- 
rents are formed here by the tides of the Hillsborough, York, and Elliot Rivers (or 
East, North, and West Rivers), which empty into this basin. 

Hotels. — St. Lawrence Hotel, Water St. ; Revere House, near the steamboat 
■wharf; City Hotel. The hotels of Charlottetown are only boarding-houses of aver- 
age grade, and will hardly satisfy American gentlemen. Attempts are being made 
to erect a large summer-hotel here, though there seems to be but little to warrant 
such an enterprise. 

Steamsliips. — The Alhambra and the Carroll leave Charlottetown every 
Thursday for the Strait of Canso, Halifax, and Boston. Fares to Halifax, saloon 
state-room, ^ 6 ; cabin state-room, §5 ; cabin, § 4 ; Halifax to Boston, $ 9, § 7.50, 



176 Route 45. CHARLOTTETOWN. 

and $ 5.50. The P. E. I. Steam Navigation Companj-'S vessels St. Laiorence and 
Princess of Wales run between Charlottetown, Shediac, and Pictou (see Routes 43 
and 44). Tlie Heatlnr Belle plies about the baj^ and up the Hillsborough River, 
making also trips to Crapaud and Orwell. She runs up the Hillsborough River 
to Mount Stewart on Monday, Tuesday, Fridaj' and Saturday; to Crapaud on 
Wednesday ; and to Orwell on ^Vednesday, Thursday and Friday (time-table of 
1S74). 

Charlottetown, the capital of Prince Edward Island, is situated on 
gently rising ground on the N. side of the Hillsborough River, and fronts 
on a good harbor. It has about 8,000 inhabitants, -svith 6 weekly news- 
papers, 2 banks, and 10 churches. The plan of the city is ver}^ regular, 
and consists of 6 streets, each 100 ft. wide, running E. and W., intersect- 
ing 9 streets running from N. to S. There are four large public squares. 

The Colonial Building is the only fine structure in the city. It stands 
on Queen's Square, at the head of Great George St., and is built of Nova- 
Scotia freestone (at a cost of $ 85,000). The halls of the Legislative Coun- 
cil and House of Assembly are on the second floor, and are handsomely 
furnished and adorned with portraits of the statesmen of Prince Edward 
Island. On the same floor is the Colonial Library, containing a good col- 
lection of books relating to the history, laws, and physical characteristics 
of Canada and the British Empire. A pleasant view of the city and the 
rivers may be obtained from the cupola of the building. The Post Office 
is also on Queen's Square, and is a new and handsome stone building. 
Just be3'ond is the JMarket House, a great wooden structure covered with 
shingles. The principal shops of Charlottetown are about Queen's Square, 
and offer but little to be desired. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. 
Dunstan is a spacious wooden edifice on Great George St., near the Square. 

The extensive Convent of Notre Dame is on Hillsborough Square, and 
occupies a modern brick biiilding. The Prince of Wales College and the 
Normal School are on Weymouth St., in this vicinity. 

The old barracks and drill-shed are W. of Queen's Square, between 
Pownal and Sydney Sts., and are fronted by a parade-ground. The Gov- 
ernment House is on a point of land W. of the city, and overlooks the 
harbor. 

In 174S the government of the island was vested in civil and military officers, 
•whose residence was established at the W. entrance to the harbor of Port la Joie 
(Charlottetown), where they had a battery and a small garrison. It is said that the 
first French sailors who entered the inner harbor were so pleased with its tranquil 
beauty that thej* named it Port la Joie. There were no houses on the site of the 
city in 1752. The harbor was held by three British frigates in 1746, but was ravaged 
by"200 Micmacs under the French Ensign Moutesson. All the English found on the 
shore were captured, but the Indians refused to attack the war-vessels. 

In 1768 Morris and Deschamps arrived here with a small colony, and erected huts. 
They laid out the streets of Charlottetown, which was soon established as the capi- 
tal of the island. In 1775 it was captured by two American war-vessels, which had 
been cruising in the Gulf to carry otf the Quebec storeships. The sailors plundered 
the town, ami led away several local dignitaries as prisoners, but "Washington Ub- 
erated the captives, and reprimanded the predatory cruisers. 

Charlottetown " has the appearance of a place from which something has de- 
parted; a wooden town, with wide and vacant streets, and the air of waiting for 



ENVIRONS OF CHARLOTTETOWN. Route 46. 177 

Bometliing That the productive island, with its system of free schools, is about 

to enter upon a prosperous career, and that Oharlottetown is soon to become a place 
of great activity, no one who converses with the natives can doubt, and I think 
that even now no traveller will regret spending an hour or two there ; but it is 
necessary to say that the rosy inducements for tourists to spend the summer there 
exist only in the guide-books." 

Environs of Charlottetown. 

The Wesleyan College is on an eminence back of the city, and overlooks 
the harbor and the rivers. It has 10 instructors and about 300 students. 
St. Dunstmi's College is a Catholic institution, which occupies the crest 
of a hill 1 M. from the city, and has 4 professors. There are several pretty 
villas in the vicinity of Chai'lottetown ; and the roads are very good during 
dry weather. Some travellers have greatly admired the rural scenery of 
these suburban roads, but others have reported them as tame and uninter- 
esting. The same conflict of opinion exists with regard to the scenery of 
the whole island. 

Southport is a village opposite Charlottetown, in a pretty situation on the 
S. shore of the Hillsborough River. It is reached by a steam ferry-boat, 
which crosses every hour. 3 M. from this place is the eminence called 
Tea Hill, whence a pleasing view of the parish and the bay may be ob- 
tained. A few miles beyond is the village of Poional, at the head of 
Pownal Bay, and in a region prolific in oats and potatoes. 

46. Charlottetown to Summerside and Tignish. — The 
Western Shores of Prince Edward Island. 

This region is traversed by the Prince Edward Island Railway, a narrow-gauge 
road which has recently been built by the Canadian government. This line was 
opened late in 1874, and its stations are not yet fully established, many of them 
being merely platforms, at which the trains do not stop unless there are passengers 
to be put down or taken up. During the winter of 1874-5 this line ran three trains 
a week, " weather permitting." 

Stations. — Charlottetown; Royalty Junction, 5 M. ; N. "Wiltshire, 17; Hunter 
River, 21 ; Kensington, 41 ; Summerside, 49 ; Wellington, 61 ; Tyne, or Port Hill, 
71 ; O'Leary Road, 89 ; Alberton, 104 ; Tignish, 117. 

After leaving the commodious station-building, in the E. part of Char- 
lottetown, the train SAveeps around the city, turning to the N. from the 
bank of the Hillsborough River. The suburban villas are soon passed, and 
the line traverses a level country to RoyalUj Junction, where the tracks 
to Souris and Georgetown (see Route 47) diverge to the N. E. The train 
now enters the main line, and runs W. thi-ough a fertile farming country, 
— "a sort of Arcadia, in which Shenstone would have delighted." The 
hamlets are small and the dwellings are very plain, but it is expected that 
the stations of the new railway will become the nuclei of future villages. 
The train soon crosses the head-waters of the York River, and reaches N. 
Wiltshire, beyond which is a line of low hills, extending across the island. 
4 ]VI. beyond this point is the station of Hunter River, whence a much- 
8* L 



178 Iiou(e46, EUSTICO. 

travelled road leads to the N. to XeAv Glasgow and Kustioo, locally famous 
tor pleasant marine scenery. 

Rustico is a quiet marine settlement, with tAvo churches and a bank, 
and about 300 inhabitants. It is near Grand Eustico Harbor, and is one 
of the chief tishing stations of the N. shore. The original settlers "were 
Acadiaus (in the year 1710), many of whose descendants remain in the 
township, and are peaceful and unprogressive citizens. The Ocean House 
(40 guests) is a small summer hotel near the sand-hills of the beach; and 
the lacilities for boating, bathing, fishing, and gunning are said to be ex- 
cellent. The great fleets of the Gulf fishermen are sometimes seen oflf 
these shores. There is a pleasant drive np the Hunter Kiver to Xeic Glas- 
gow (Eockem's inn), which Avas settled by men of Glasgow, under Alex- 
ander Cormack. the Newfoundland exploi-er, in 1S29. The Hunter Eiver 
affords good trouting. 

Grand Eustico Harbor is rendered unsafe by shitting bars of sand, and 
it was otf this port that the Government steamer iiOitc was lost. On the 
coast to the X. W. are the hamlets of N. Eustico and Cavendish, the lat- 
ter of which is a Presbyterian farming settlement of 200 inhabitants. 

Kcnsinpion station is about 41 SI. from Charlottetown, and is near the petty 
hamlet of the same name. To the X. E. is Grenville Harbor, with the estu- 
aries of three rivers, the chief of which is the Stanley. There are several 
maritime hamlets on these shores, and on the W. is Xew London, a neat 
Scottish settlement with two churches. A road also leads X. "W. from 
Kensington to Prhcttoirn^ a village of 400 inhabitants, situated on the 
peninsula between Eichmond Bay, March AVater, and the Darnley Basin. 
This tcnvn was laid out (in 1760) with broad streets and squares, and Wivs 
intended for the metropolis of the X. coast, but the expectations of the 
government were never realized, and " the ploughshare still turns up the 
sod, where it was intended the busy thoroughfare should be." ^Malpeqne 
Harbor is the finest and safest on the X. shoi-e of Prince Edward Island. 
A few miles E. ai-e the lofty sandstone cliffs of Cape Tryon, near Xew Lon- 
don harbor. Princetown fronts on Hichmond Bay, a capacious haven 
which runs in to the S. W. for 10 M., and contains 7 islands. Traveller 
have praised the beauty of the road fivm Princetown to Port Hill, which 
affords many pleasant views over the bay. 

Beyond Kensington the train runs S. W. across the rni-al plains of St. 
David's Parish, and passes out on the isthmus between Eichmond Bay and 
Bedeque Bay, where the island is only 3-4 ^L wide. 9 iM. from Kensing- 
ton it reaches Snmmei-side. 

Summerside (two inns) is situated on the X. side of Bedeque Hai-bor, and 
is a town of about 2,000 inhabitants, with S churches, 5 schools. 2 weekly 
newspapei-s, and 2 banks. It is the port Avhence most of the products of 
the "\V. part of the island are sent out. and has grown rapidly of late years. 
The chief exports in 1S70 Avei-e 2GS,000 bushels of oats, 37,393 bushels of 



SUMMERSIDE. Route 4G. 179 

potatoes, 10,300 bushels of barley, 86,450 dozen of eggs, and 4,337 barrels 
of the famous Bedequc oysters. The wharves are long, in order to reach 
the deep water of the channel; and the houses of the town are mostly 
small wooden buildings. Considerable shipbuilding is done here. 

The * Island Park Hotel is a summer resort on an islet off the harbor, 
and is patronized by American toui'ists. There are accommodations for 
fishing and bathing, and a steam ferry-boat plies between the island and 
the town. The hotel commands a pleasant view of the Bedeque shores 
and the Strait of Northumberland. 

"This little seaport is intended to be attractive, and it -would give these travellers 
great pleasure to descriVjc it if they could at all remember how it looks. But it is a 
place that, like some faces, makes no sort of impression on the memory. M'c went 
ashore there, and tried to take an interest in the shipbuilding, and in the little 
oysters -which the harbor yields ; but -whether -we did take an interest or not has 
passed out of memory. A small, unpicturesque, -wooden town, in the languor of a 
provincial summer; -why should we pretend an interest in it -which we did not feel? 
It did not disturb our reposeful frame of mind, nor much interfere with our enjoy- 
ment of the day." ( Warner's Baddeck.) 

On leaving Summerside, the train runs out to the W., over a level region. 
To the N. is the hamlet of St. Eleanors (Ellison's Hotel), a place of 400 in- 
habitants, situated in a rich farming country. It enjoys the honor of being 
the shire-town of Prince County, and is about 2\ M. from Summerside. 
3 M. from St. Eleanors is the rural vihage of Miscouche, inhabited by 
French Acadians. Wellington (Western Hotel) is a small hamlet and 
station 12 M. beyond Summerside, near the head of the Grand Eiver, which 
flows into Richmond Bay. The Acadian settlements about Cape Egmont 
are a few miles to the S. W. 

The line passes on to Port Ilill, a prosperous shipbuilding village on 
Richmond Bay. Near this place is Lennox Island, which is reserved for 
the Micmac Indians, and is inhabited by about 150 persons of that tribe. 
Between the bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence is George Island, which is 
composed of trap-rock and amygdaloid, and is regarded as a curious geo- 
logical intrusion in the red sandstone formations of the Prince-Edward 
shores. The train runs N. W. over the isthmus between the Cavendish 
Inlet and the Percival and Enmore Rivers, and soon enters the North 
Parish. This region is thinly inhabited by French and British settlers, 
and is one of the least prosperous portions of the island. The line passes 
near Brae, a settlement of 300 Scotch farmers, near the trout-abounding 
streams of the Parish of Halifax. To the S. W. is the sequestered marine 
hamlet of West Point, whei'e a town has been laid out and preparations 
made for a commeixe which does not come. The coast trends N. by E. 
6 M. from West Point to Cape Wolfe, whence it runs N. E. by E. 27 M. to 
North Point, in a long unbroken strand of red clay and sandstone cliffs. 

Alberton (two inns) is one of the northern termini of the railway, and 
is a prosperous village of 700 inhabitants, with two churches and an 



ISO Route jpi. TIGXISH. 

American consular agency. It is situated on Cascumpeci harbor, and is 
engaged in shipbuilding and the fisheries. The American fishing-schooners 
often take refuge in this harbor. The neighboring rural districts are fer- 
tile and thickly populated, and produce large quantities of oats and pota- 
toes. This town was the birthplace of the Gordons, the heroic mission- 
aries at Eromanga, one of whom was martyred in 1861, the other in 
1S72. S. of Alberton is Holland Bay, which was named in honor of him- 
self by ^Major Holland, the English surTeyor of the island; and 6-8 j\I. N. 
is Cape Kildare. 

Tignish {Ei/an's Hotel) is the extreme northern point reached by the 
railwar, and is 117 31. from Charlottetown. It has about 200 inhabitants, 
and is one of the most important fishing-stations on the island. The m- 
habitants are mostly French and Scotch, and support a Catholic church 
and convent. There are several other French villages in this vicinity, 
concerning which the historian of the island says: "They are all old set- 
tlements. The nationality of the people has kept them together, until 
their farms are subdivided into small portions, and their dwellings are 
numerous and close together. Few are skilful farmers. Many prefer to 
obtain a living by fishing rather than farming. They are simple and in- 
offensive in their manners ; quiet and uncomplaining, and easil}" satisfied. 
The peculiarities of their race are not yet extinct; and under generous 
treatment and superior training, the national enterprise and energy, poHte- 
ness and refinement, would gradually be restored." 

Ko7^th Point is about 8 jM. N. of Tignish, and is reached by a sea-view- 
ing road among the sand-dunes. It has a lighthouse, which sustains a 
powerful light, and is an important point in the navigation of the Gulf. 

47. Charlottetown to Georgetown. 

By the Prince Edward Island Railway. 

Stations. — Charlottetown ; Royalty Junction, 5 M. ; Mount Stewart, 22 ; Car- 
digan, 40 ; Georgetown, 46. 

Beyond Eoyalty Junction the ti-ain diverges to the N. E., and follows the 
course of the Hillsborough Eiver, though generally at some distance from 
the shore. The banks of this stream are the most favored part of that 
prosperous land of which Dr. Cm-ler says: "It is one rich, rolling, arable 
f\u-m, from Cape East clear up to Cape North." As early as 1758 there were 
2.000 French colonists about this river. The Hillsborough is 30 M. long, 
and the tide ascends for 20 M. Much produce is shipped from these shores 
during the autumnal months. About 8 M. beyond the Junction the line 
crosses French Fort Creek, on whose banks the French troops erected a 
fortification to protect the short portage (Ij M.) across the island, from 
the river to Tracadie Harbor. Here the military domination was surren- 
1 Cascumpec, an Indian word, meaning " Flowing through. Sand." 



GEOEGETOWN. Route 47. 181 

dered to the British expeditionary forces. To the N, W. are the Gaelic 
villages of Govehead and Tracadie, now over a century old ; near which 
is the sandy lagoon of Tracadie Harbor. At the place called Scotch Fort 
the French built the first church on the island, and in this vicinity the 
earliest British settlers located. From the French Catholic church on the 
lofty hill at St. Andrews, a few miles to the N. E., a beautiful view is 
obtained over a rich rural country. 

Mount Stewart (two inns) is a prosperous little shipbuilding village, 
whence the steamer Heather Belle runs to Charlottetown. The train 
crosses the river at this point, and at Mount Stewart Junction it turns 
to the S. E., while the Souris Railway divei'ges to the N. E. The country 
which is now traversed is thinly settled, and lies about the liead-waters of 
the Morrell and Pisquid Rivers. There are several small lakes in this 
region, and forests are seen on either hand. At Cardigan (small inn) the 
line reaches the head-waters of the eastern rivers. A road leads hence to 
the populous settlements on the Vernon River and Pownal Bay. 

Georgetown {Comviercial Hotel) is the capital of King's County, and 
has about 800 inhabitants. It is situated on the long peninsula between 
the Cardigan and Brudenelle Rivers, and its harbor is one of the best on 
the island, being deep and secure, and the last to be closed by ice. The 
county buildings, academy, and Episcopal church are on Kent Square. 
The chief business of the town is in the exportation of produce, and ship- 
building is carried on to some extent. The town is well laid out, but its 
growth has been very slow. Steamers ply between this port, Pictou, ani 
the Magdalen Islands (see Routes 44 and 49). The harbor is reached by 
ascending Cardigan Bay and passing the lighthouses on Panmure Head 
and St. Andrew's Point. 

Montague Bridge (Montague House) is reached from Georgetown by a 
feiTy of 6 M. and 11 M. ot' staging. It has 350 inhabitants and several 
mills. To the S. E. is St. Mary's Bay. About 20 M. S. of Georgetown is 
Murray Harbor, on which there are several Scottish villages. From Cape 
Bear the coast trends W. for 27 M. to Point Prim. 



" No land can boast more rich supply, 
That e'er was found beneath the sky ; 
No purer streams have ever flowed, 
Since Heaven that bounteous gift bestowed. 

And herring, like a mighty host. 

And cod and mackerel, crowd the coast." 



■ In this fine island, long neglected, 
Much, it is thought, might be effected 
By industry and application, — 
Sources of wealth with every nation." 



182 IlouU4S. ST. FETEE'S. 



48. Charlottetown to Souris. 

By the Prince Edward Island Railway. 

Stations. — Charlottetown: Royalty Jnnction. 5 M. ; Mount Stewart, 22 ; Mor- 
rell. &) ; St. Peter's, oSi^ ; Harmony, 55 ; Soiuis, 60^. 

CliarlottetOAvu to Mount Stewart, see page ISl. 

At Mount Stewart Junction the train diverges to the N. E., and soon 
reaches Morrell, a fishing-station on the Morrell Kiver, near St. Peter's 
Bay. 

St. Peter's {Frairie Hotel) was from the first the most important port 

on the X. shore of the island, on account of its rich salmon-fisheries. 

About the year 1750 the French government endeavored to restrict tlie 

fishing of the island, and to stimulate its agriculture, by closing all the 

ports except St. Peter's and Tracadie. The village is now quite small. 

though the salmou-fisheiy is valuable. St. Peter's Bay runs 7 M. into 

the land, but it is of little use. since there is only 5 ft. of water on its 

sandy bar. From this inlet to East Point the shore is unbroken, and is 

formed of a line of red sandstone clifts, 33 M. long. 

" The sea-trout fishing, in the bays and harbors of Prince Edward Island, espe- 
cially in June, when thefish first rush in from the gulf, is really magnificent. They 
average fi:om 3 to 5 pounds each- I found the best fishing at St. Peter's Riy, on 
the N. side of the island, about 2S M. tVom Charlottetown. I there killed in one 
morning 16 trout, which weighed SO pounds. In the bays and along the coasts of 
the islajttd they are taken with the scarlet fly. fi-om a boat xmder easy Siiil, with a 
' mackerel breeze.' and sometimes a heavy ' ground swell.' The fly skips from wave 
to W5\ve at the end of o"."* yards of liue, and there should be at least 70 yards more on 
the reel. It is splendid sport, as a strong fish wUl make sometimes a long run, and 
give a good chase down the wind." (,Peklet.) 

Hannony station is near Eollo Bay, which was named in honor of Lord 
Eollo, who occupied the island with British troops in 175S. There is a 
small hamlet on this bay; and to the S. W. are the Gaelic settlements of 
Dundas, Bridgetown, and Annandale, situated on the Grand Eiver. 

Souris (three inns) is a village of Catholic Highlanders, pleasantly 
situated on the X. side of Colville Bay, and divided into two portions by 
the Souris Eiver. The harbor is shallow, but is being improved by a break- 
water. The shore-fishing is pursued in fleets of dories, and most of the 
produce of the adjacent country is shipped from Souris to the French Isle 
of St. Pierre (see page 1S5). There is a long sandy beach on the W. of the 
village, and on the S. and E. is a bold headland. Souris was settled bv 
the Acadians in 174S; and now contains about 500 inhabitants. 

The East Parish extends for several leagues E. of Souris, and includes 
the sea-shore hamlets of Eed Point, Bothwell, East Point, North Lake, and 
Fairfield. The East and Xorth Lakes are long and shallow lagoons on the 
coast. East Point is provided with a first-class fixed light, which is 130 
ft. above the sea and is visible for IS M. 



MAGDALEN ISLANDS. Route 49. 183 



49. The Magdalen Islands. 

These remote islands are sometimes visited, during ttie summer, by fishing-par- 
ties who find rare sport in catching the white sea-trout that abound m the Ticmity. 
The accommodations for visitors are of the most prunitive kind, but many defects 
are atoned for by the hospitaUty of the people. ,„ -,, -r . ^ xu ht ^ , 

The mail-steamer Albert leaves Pictou for Georgetown (P. E. I.) and the Magdalen 
Islands every alternate Wednesday. She also leaves Pictou for Port Hood (Cape 
Breton) every Monday evening, returning on the following morning. (Tune- table 

° Fares. — Halifax to Port Hood, $ 4.60 ; to Georgetown, $ 4.10 ; to the Magdalen 
Islands, $ 8. Further particulars may be obtained by addressing James Kmg, mail- 
contractor, Halifax. 

The Magdalen Islands are thirteen in number, and are situated at the 
entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 50 M. from East Point (P. E. I.), 
60 M. from Cape North (C. B.), 120 M.from Cape Ray (N. F.), and 150 M. 
from Gasp^. When they are first seen from the sea, they present the ap- 
pearance of well-detached islets, but on a nearer approach several of them 
are seen to be connected with each other by double lines of sandy beaches, 
forming broad and quiet salt-water lagoons. The inhabitants are mostly 
Acadian fishermen (speaking French only), devoted to the pursuit of the 
immense schools of cod and mackerel that visit the neighboring waters. 
At certain seasons of the year the harbors and lagoons are filled with 
hundreds of sail of fishing-vessels, most of which are American and Pro- 
vincial. Seal-hunting is carried on here with much success, as extensive 
fields of ice drift down against the shores, bearing rajnriads of seals. On 
one occasion over 6,000 seals were killed here in less than a fortnight by 
parties going out over the ice from the shore. This is also said to be the 
best place in America for the lobster fishery, and a Portland company has 
recently founded a canning establishment here. On account of their 
abundant returns in these regards the ]\Iagdalen Islands have received the 
fitting title of " The Kingdom of Fish." In order to protect these interests 
the Dominion armed cutter La Canadienne usually spends the summer in 
these waters, to prevent encroachments by Americans and Frenchmen. 

Amherst Island is the chief of the group, and is the seat of the prmcipal 
village, the custom-house, and the public buildings. On its S. point is a 
red-and-white revolving light which is visible for 20 M. ; and the hills in the 
interior, 550 ft. high, are seen from a great distance by day. The village has 
3 churches and the court-house, and is situated on a small harbor which 
opens on the S. of Pleasant Bay, a broad and secure roadstead where hun- 
dreds of vessels sometimes weather heavy storms in safety. 1 M. N. W. 
of the village is the singular conical hill called the Demoiselle (280 ft. high), 
whence the bay and a great part of the islands may be seen. 

Grindstone Island is 5-6 M. N. of Amherst, and is connected with it 
by a double line of sand-beaches, which enclose the wide lagoon called 
Basque Harbor. It. is 5 M. long, and has a central hill 550 ft. high, while 
on the W. shore is the lofty conical promontory of sandstone which the 



1S4 Route 49. MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 

Acadians call Cap de Jleitle. On the same side is the thriving hamlet of 
L'iltang du Xord. On the E., and containing 7 square miles, is Alright 
Island, terminated by the grayish-white dirts of Capo Alright, over 400 
ft. higli. A sand-beach runs N. E. 10 M. from Grindstone to Wolf Island, 
a sandstone rock | M. long: and another beach runs thence 9 JL farther 
to the N. E. to (.rn\«st> Island, on the Grand Lagx^on. This island has another 
line of lofty clitVs of sandstone. To the E. is Cojin Island^ and 4 M. N. is 
Bnjon hland, beyond which are the Bird Isles. 

Entry Island lies to the E. of Amherst Island, off the entrance to 
Pleasant Bay, and is the most picturesque of the group. Near the centre 
is a hill oSO ft. high, visible for 25 JL, and from whose summit the 
whole Magdalen group can be overlooked. The wonderful clitVs of red 
sandstone which line the shores of this island are very picturesque in their 
eftect, and roach a height of 400 ft. 

Deadman's Isle is a rugged rock 8 M. W. of Amherst, and derives its 
name irom the fancied resemblance of its contour to that of a corpse laid 
out for burial. While passing this rock, in 1S04, Tom ]Moore wrote the 
poem which closes : 



" There lieth a wreck on the dismal shore 
Of cold and pitiless Labrador. 
"Where, under the moon, upon mounts of 

fn\<t. 
Full many a m:iriner"s bones are tossed. 

"Yon shadowv bark hath been to that wreck. 

And the dim blue tire that lights her deck 



Doth play on as nale and livid a crew 
As ever yet drank the churchyard dew. 

" To Deadman's Isle in the eve of the blast. 
To Deadman's Isle she speeds her fast : 
By skeleton shapes her sails are furled. 
And the hand tliat steers is not of this 
world." 



The Bird Isles are two bare rocks of i-ed sandstone, | ]M. apart, the chief 
of which is known as Gannet Kock, and is 1,300 ft. long and 100-140 ft. 
high, lined with vertical dirts. These isles are haunted by immense num- 
bers of sea-birds, gannets, guillemots, puflins, kittiwakes, and razor-billed 
auks. "No other breeding-place on our shore is so remarkable at once 
for the mimber and variety of the species occupying it." Immense quan- 
tities of eggs are carried thence by the islanders, but to a less extent than 
formerly. 

This great natural ciu-iosity 'wn? visited in 1032 by the .Tcsiiits (who called the rocks 
Les Colofnbiers), by Iloriot iu 1S07. by Avidubou, and iu ISOO by Dr. Bryan. The 
Dominion has recently oroctod a lighthouse hero at givat expon.*o,aud to the immineut 
peril^of those ong-agcd iu the wo\-k, since there is no landing-place, and in breezy 
weather the surf dnshes violently against the ehfts all around. The tower bears a 
fixed white ligh: of the first class, which is visible for 21 M. 

CbarlevoixVisited these islands iu 1720, and wondered how, " iu sxich a Multitude 
of Nests, every Bird immediately finds her own. We fired a Gun. which gave the 
Alarm thro" all this flying Commonwealth, and there was formed above the two 
Islands, a thick Cloud of those Bii\ls, which wt\s at least two or three Leagues 
around." 

The Magdalen Islands were visited by Cartier in lo34, but the first permanent sta- 
tion was founded heiv in IGt'o by a company of lloufleur mariners, to whom the 
islands were conceded by the Company of New France In 1720 the Duchess of 
Orleans granted them to the Count de St. ricrro. In 1703 they weiv inhabited by 
10 Acadian famiUes, and in 1707 a Bostoniau named Ciridley founded on Amherst 



ST. PIERRE AND MIQUELON. Route 50. 185 

Island an establishment for trading and for the seal and walrus fisheries. During 
the Revolution American privateers visited the islands, and destroyed everything 
accessible. Gridley returned after the war, but the walrus soon became extinct, 
and the islanders turned their attention to the cod and herring fisheries. When 
Admiral CoiTin received his grant there were 100 families here; in 1831 there were 
1,000 inhabitants; and the present population is about .3,500. In the mean time 
three colonics have been founded and populated from these islands, on Labrador and 
the N. shore. The Lord's-Day Gale (see page 170) wi'ought sad havoc among the 
fleets in these waters. 

Tradition tells that when Capt. Coffin was conveying Governor-General Lord Dor- 
chester to Canada in his frigate, a furious storm arose in the Gulf, and the skilful 
mariner saved his vessel by gaining shelter under the lee of these islands. Dorches- 
ter, grateful for his preservation , secured for the captain the grant of the islands 
"in free and common soccage," with the rights of building roads and fortifications 
reserved to the Crown. The grantee was a native of Boston and a benefactor of 
Nantucket, and subsequently became Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin. The grant now 
belongs to his nephew, Admiral Coffin, of Bath, and is an entailed estate of the 
family. In 1873, 75 years after the grant, the legislature of Quebec (in whose juris- 
diction the islands lie) made extensive investigations with a view to buy out the pro- 
prietor's claim, since many of the islanders had emigrated to Labrador and the 
Mingan Isles, dissatisfied with their uncertain tenure of the land. 

50. St. Pierre and Miquelon. 

The Anglo-French Steamship Company dispatches the steamer George Shattuck 
from Halifax to Sydney and St. Pierre every alternate Saturday during the season 
of navigation. She leaves St. Pierre every alternate Friday. The voyage to Sydney 
has recently been made by way of St. Peter's Canal and the Bras d'Or, but it is not 
likely that that route will be adopted in preference to the outside course. 

Fares from Ilahfax to Sydney, cabin, ^ 10, steerage, $G ; to St. Pierre, cabin, 
$15, steerage, i^%; Sydney to St. Pierre, cabin, $9, steerage, $6. The price of 
meals is included in the cabin-fares. Further information may be obtained by ad- 
dressing .Joseph S. Belcher, Boak's Wharf, Halifax. 

St. Pierre may also be visited by the Western Coastal steamer from. St. John's, 
N. F. (see Route 60). 

There are several French cafes a,n(\. pensions in the village of St. Pierre, at which 
the traveller can find indifferent accommodations. The best of these is that at which 
the telegraph-operators stop. 

On entering the harbor of St. Pierre, the steamer passes Galantry Head, on which 
is a red-and-white flash-light which is visible for 20 M., and also two fog-guns. 
Within the harbor are two fixed lights, one white and one red, which are visible for 
6 M. ; and the Isle aux Chiens contains a scattered fishing- village. 

The island of St. Pierre is about 12 M. from Point May, on the New- 
foundland coast, and is 12 M. in circumference. It is mostly composed of 
rugged porpliyritic ridges, utterly arid and barren, and the scenery is of 
a striking and singular character. Bacli of the village is the hill of Cal- 
vaire, surmounted by a tall cross; and to the S. W., beyond Ravenel Bay, 
is the lakelet called DEtang du Savoyard. The town is compactly built on 
the harbor at the E. of the island, and most of its houses are of stone. It 
is guarded by about 50 French soldiers, whose presence is necessary to 
keep the multitudes of fearless and pugnacious sailors from incessant riot- 
ing. There is a large force of telegraph-operators here, in charge of the 
two cables from America to Great Britain by way of Newfoundland, and 
of the Franco-American cable, which runs E. to Brest and S. W. to Dux- 
bury, in Massachusetts. 

The only good house in the town is that of the Governor; and the Cath- 



ISo ^ PIERRE AND MIQUELON. 

oUc church and ccaivent r < .ntty over the low houses of tiie fisli«i«> 

meu. XeAT tho sea is a b:.:rovy ot auoiont guns, which ar« used only for 
wanung in season of togs. The buikiings atv nearly all of ^trood, and in- 
clude many shops, where ewry variety of goods may be obtsuned. The 
merchants aiv connected with French and American linns. Then? are 
numerous oa*«7rcr^,<s or drinking-sivloons : and the anhcrgfs^ or small ta\T(»ms, 
are thoroughly Fwnch. Tho citixens are famed for their hospitality to 
properly accredited stranger? ; and the hterary culture of the commxmity 
is served by a diminutive -vveekly pajver callcvl Zrt Fcmik Oj^cidU^ printed 
on a sheet of foolscajv and contiiining its serial Parisian ffmlhtcm. 

The street of St- Pierre presents a ven- interesting siglu during the 
spring and liill. It is crowded with many thous:\nds of hardy tvshennen, 
arraj-ed in the quaint costumes of their native shoress — Xonnans, Bretons, 
Basques, Provincials, and Xew-Englanders^ — :Ul aoti\-e and sUert; while 
the implements of the tisheries are seen on e\-ery side. The envia-ms of 
the town are rocky and utterly unproducti\-e, so that tlie provisions used 
here aiv importcvi fivm the Provinces. 

The resident population is S,\J7 (of whom 24 are Protestant), and the 
government is conductevl by a Commandaiit, a Police }klagistn\te, IXvetor, 
Apostolic Prefect, and Engineer, with a foAv artillerists and gens-vPannes, 
There is usually one or more French frigtttes in the haibor, looking afh^r 
the vast fislieries which employ 15,000 sailors of Friuice, and return 
80,000,000 franco' m>rth of fish. 

St. Tiexre is tho chiof wndoirvMis of tho Fronch ti^honiion. aiid \mtMon.*o fl»vts aiv 
SdMetimo? gathorod horv. 0>Yr l.lW sail of :<qxian^rij::j^\l ■n^sANls frt^ui Frautv aw 
cngaiRxl in" thoi^^ tishorios. and on tho ii^th of Jvino. 1ST4. tho i\\>il.<n\>»d noar tho 
islaiui ci>nramovl ;>50 s»il of st^uaro-ri^c^Hi ■nvssi.-ls auvl a.!* fi.Mv.aiiii..'»tt voSx*t\ls. They 
aw hore t\jnu&ho\i with siippUo^. vrhioh ai\^ v\ra\vu from tho av\jao«.-nt lVM-inc»\<. anli 
in Toturu loavo nw«\- of tho hixurios of Old V^uco. It is olain\»\i that tho braiu^v 
of St. riorro is tho K\*t it\ Amorica, Tho tishornion loaw thoir lish hort> to l>o cunxl, 
and from this point thoy aro s<>nt $. to tho Vuitovl Statos and tho Wost Indies. 

Uttff Mii^MriOH Is}>t»d. or Laivsrloy Island. IK\< 8 M. N. W. of St, lVrn\ and is 
about 24 M. aiv>\ind. It is >>im\rto"Grtn»t j^liqiielon Island by a long and 
narrow saml^v isthmus, Tho lattor island is 12 M. lone, and Uv>ks out on Vortuno 
Bay. Xoar its X. end aro tho singular hills known as Mt. Ohaivau and Mt. Cal- 
Tairo. On this island, duriuir tho snuunor of 1ST4. was wnvki\i 11. R M. ft-igato 
Niohf. tho bravo ship that trainovi hor jruus on S*ntia^i do Oul^a, and pro^Tnttnl a 
total massaotv of tho T7n?»Mi«x< prisv^nors. 

St. Piorro was oapturvd by a l^iti-sh tloot in 1T\X^. and all its inhabitant*. 1.502 in 
numbor, woro oarriovi aw-ay to Halifax, whonoo thoy \wiv soon at>orwar\ls sont to 
Franoo. In 1TIX> a Fronoh Ropublioan tloot \indor.\dmiral Kiohory visitixi tho do- 
sorrod island, and oomploroly dostn\vo\l its buildings and wharros. It was. how- 
ovor. restoTwl to Franco in 1S14. tiWthor with hor anciont privi\'^\< in those 
wators. "All tho island is only a srnvu laKiratory for tho pn^iv-^rafvon. curinjr, 
and oxportatiou of covifish. For the rost. not a tiw, not a bush, aKivo 25 oonti- 
moties." 



JSTEWFOUNDLAND 



Is bounded on the W. by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the N. by the 
Stniit of Belle Isle, and on the E. and S. by the Atlantic Ocean. From 
N. to S. It IS 350 M. long, and the average breadth is 130 M., ffiving an 
estimated area of 40,200 square miles. The coast is steep and bold and 
IS indented with numerous deep bays and fiords. Mines of lead and' cop 
per are being worked with much success, and there are large undeveloped 
deposits of coal on the W coast. 

Th'lV^ ^*'- ^^'^ f"*"^^^ T *^^ ''^'''^* ^^ Newfoundland, and down amin into the rp-, 
The huKc island . stands, with its sheer, beetling cliffs, out of the oJcan a mnn' 
Ptrous niassot rock and gravel, almost without soil like k str^nrrp f h,^?^ / '"fu " 
hottou. of the great deep, lifted 'up suddenly into sunshine anJst^on^'^S^t^'eTon/ 
H,g to the watery darkness out of which it has been reared. The ey^ccustompHT 

Us boVrtrrf ' Tr""' '"^t ^«V''"""^' '' ^ ^*^^"^'« ^"'i almost stTthngbSy in 
Its bold, hard outlines, cut out on every side aerainst the kU-v t^i„! i ^ 

rounded by a fringe of small forests on the coastsf t a vast w Jerne^s' of moss' ?'," 
rock, and lake, and dwarf firs about breast-high. These Ittrtrw^nLL^r' ^*^ 
stiff and flat-topped that one can almost walk Sn them.'^Of cou'^c theyl e vtfhard 

things to make way through and among In March or Anril olmLTn-^, f, 

tTkilfthe s ^", ""T. '° ""^^ ""' ''' ^^^* «-*^^ ^«-" S. the no Irn'eg oS" and 

Two of the most remarkable features of the natural history of the island 
are thus quaintly set forth by Whitbourne (anno 1622) : " Neither are there 
any Snakes, Toads, Serpents, or any other venomous Wormes that ever 
were knowne to hurt any man in tliat country, but only a very little nim- 
ble fly (the least of all other flies), which is called a Miskieto; those flies 
seem to have a great power and authority upon all loytering and idle peo- 
ple that come to tlie Newfoundland." Instances have been known where 
the flies have attacked men with such venom and multitudes that fatal 
results 1-^ve followed. In the interior of the island are vast unexplored 
regions, studded with large lakes and mountain-ranges. Through these 
solitudes roam 'countless thousands of deer, which are pursued by the Mic- 
mac hunters. 

Newfoundland was discovered by the Norsemen in the tenth century, 
but they merely observed the coast and made no further explorations. 



ISS F^.-^-.U 51. N'EWFOrXPLAXD. 

There is good reason for supposing that it vras frequented by Breton and 
Xonnaii fishermen during the fourteenth century. In 1497 the island vras 
formally discv^vered by John Cabot, who Tra^ vo\-aging under the patron- 
age of Henry VII. of England. The explorations of Cortereal (1501), Ve- 
razzano U52i), and Cartier (1534), all touched here, and great fishing- 
fleets began to visit the siirrounding seas. Sir Humphrey Gilbert took 
pos.session of Newfoundland in the name of England, in 15;?3, making 
this the most ancient colony of the British Empire. The settlements 
of Guy, ^^^litbou^ne, Calvert, and others were soon established on the 
coast. 

The fishermen were terribly persecuted by pirates during the earlier 
part of the 17th century. Peter Easton alone had 10 sail of corsairs on the 
coast, claiming that he was "master of the seas," and lev%-ing heavy 
taxes on all the vessels in these waters. Between 1612 and 1660 alone, 
tiie pirates captured ISO pieces of ordnance, 1,0S0 fishermen, and large 
fleets of vessels. 

Between 1692 and 1713 the French made vigorous attempts to conquer 
the island, and the struggle raged with varying fortunes on the E. and S. 
shores. By the Treat}- of Utrecht the French received permission to catch 
and cure fish along the W. coast (see Koute 61). In 172S Xewfoundljmd 
was formed into a Province, and courts were established. The French made 
determined attacks in 1761 and 1796, and the people were reduced to 
great extremity by the Xon-Iutercourse Act passed by the American Con- 
gress in 1776 and again in 1512 -1-i. In 1S17 thei-e were 80,000 inhab- 
itants, and SOO vessels were engaged in the fisheries, whose product was 
valued at $10,000,000 a year. In lSo2 the first Legislative Assembly was 
convened: in ISSS a geological survey was made; and in 1S5S the Atlan- 
tic telegraph-cable was landed on tliese shores, Newfoundland has re- 
fused to enter the Dominion of Canada, and is still governed directly by 
the British Crown. 



51. Halifax to St John's, Newfoundland. 

The oc^an ?te:im?hips between II;\lifA5: andLirerpeoI c.iU at St John's fortnightly. 
Their eoui^e alter leaving Halitiix is din?ctly to the X. E. aeross the open sea, giving 
Cape Rice a wide berth. The tare on these vessels is higher than it is on the Vtrgo, 
and the accommodations are superior ; but the vovager does not get the interesting 
views of the Causo and Cape-Breton shon?s. 

The Eastern Steamship Company's vessel, the TTrc-fl, leaves Halifax on alternate 
Tiiesda>-s. for Sydney and St. John's, carrying the^Koyal mails. The fere is §15 
^_stee^\ge, $5). This steamship is large, and is" well arranged for pa&senger-tiaffic. 

Hahfax to Sydney, see page 14S. 

Atter leaving the harbor of Sydney, Flint Island is seen on the r., and the 
blue ranges of the St. Anne Mts. on the 1. The course is but little N. of 
E., and the horizon soon becomes level and landless. Sometimes the dim 
blue hills of St. Pierre are the first land seen after the Cape-Breton coast 



ST. JOHN'S. Route 52. 189 

sinks below the horizon ; but generally the bold mountain-promontory of 
Cape Chapeau Rouge is the first recognizable shore. Then the deep bight 
of Placentia Bay opens away on the N. After rounding Cape Race (see 
Route 22), tlie steamship stretches away up the Strait Shore past a line 
of fisliing hamlets, deep fiords, and rocky capes. 

" When the mists dispersed, the rocky shores of Newfoundland were close upon 
our left, — lofty cliffs, red and gray , terribly beaten by the waves of the broad ocean. 
We amused ourselves, as we passed abreast the bays and headlands and rugged 
islands, with gazing at the wild scene, and searching out the beauty timidly reposing 
among the bleak and desolate. On the whole, Newfoundland, to the voyager from 
the States, is a lean and bony land, in thin, ragged clothes, with the smallest amount 
of adornment. Along the sides of the dull, brown mountains there is a suspicion 
of verdure, spotted and striped here and there with meagre woods of birch and fir. 
The glory of this hard region is its coast : a wonderful perplexity of fiords, bays and 
creeks, islands, peninsulas and capes, endlessly picturesque, and very often magnifi- 
cently grand. Nothing can well exceed the headlands and precipices, honeycombed, 
shattered, and hollowed out into vast caverns, and given up to the thunders and the 

fury of the deep-sea billows The brooks that flow from the highlands, and fall 

over cliffs of great elevation into the very surf, and that would be counted features 
of grandeur in some countries, are here the merest trifles, a kind of jewelry on the 
hcin of the landscape." (Noble.) 

" The first view of the harbor of St. John's is very striking. Lofty precipitous 
clitf.-i,of hard dark-red sandstone and conglomerate, range along the coast, with deep 
water close at their feet. Their beds plunge from a height of 400 - 700 ft. , at an angle 
of 70°, right into the sea, where they are ceaselessly dashed against by the unbroken 
swell of the Atlantic waves." (Jukes.) 

52. St. John's, Newfoundland. 

Arrival from the Sea. — " The harbor of St. John's is certainly one of the 

most remarkable for bold and effective scenery on the Atlantic shore We were 

moving spiritedly forward over a bright and lively sea, watching the stern headlands 
receding in the south, and starting out to view in the north, when we passed Capo 
Spear, a lofty promontory, crowned with a lighthouse and a signal-staff, upon which 
was floating the meteor flag of Eugland, and at once found ourselves abreast the 
bay in front of St. John's. Not a vestige, though, of anything like a city was in 
sight, except another flag flitting on a distant pinnacle of rock. Like a mighty 
Coliseum, the sea-wall half encircled the deep water of this outer bay, into which 
the full power of the ocean let itself under every wind except the westerly. Right 
towards the coast where it gathered itself up into the greatest massiveness, and tied 
itself into a very Gordian knot, we cut across, curious to behold when and where the 
rugged adamant was going to split and let us through. At length it opened, and we 
looked through, and presently glided through a kind of mountain-pass, with all the 
lonely grandeur of the Franconia Notch. Above us, and close above, the rugged, 
brown cliffs rose to a fine height, armed at certain points with cannon, and before 
us, to all appearance, opened out a most beautiful mountain lake, with a little city 
looking down from the mountain-side, and a swamp of shipping along its shores. We 
were in the harbor, and before St. John's." (Noble.) 

Hotels. — The Union House, 379 Water St. (nearly 1 M. from the Custom House), 
is the best ; Atlantic House, Water St. There are also two or three boarding- 
houses, which are preferable to the hotels, if a long stay is to be made. Mrs. 
Simms's, 353 Water St. , is one of the best of these ; and Knight's Home, 173 Water St., 
is tolerable. The accommodations for visitors to St. John's are not such as might 
be de.sired or expected in a city of so much importance. 

Carriages may be engaged at the stands on Water St. (near the Post-Ofiace). 
The rate per hour is 80c. 

Amusements, generally of merely local interest, are prepared in Temper- 
ance Hall or the Avalon (Victoria) Rink. Boat-racing is frequently carried on at 
Quiddy-Viddy Pond. Cricket-matches are also played on the outskirts of the city. 

Post-office, at the Market House, on Water St. Telegraph, New York, New- 
foundland, and London Co., at the Market House. 



190 Route 52. ST. JOHN'S. 

Consulates. — American, 149 "Water St. ; French, Signal-Hill Road ; German, 
227 Water St. : Spanish, 116 Cochrane St. ; Portuguese, 385 Water St. 

Mail-tvagons leave St. John's for Portugal Cove, daily ; for Topsail, Holvrood, 
Harbor Main, Brigus, Bay Roberts, and Harbor Grace, Mondays and Thursdays (or 
after arrival of mail from Halifax) in -winter, and once weekly in summer ; to Bay 
Bulls and Ferry land, -weekly ; to Sahnonier and Placentia, on the day of arrival of 
the Halifax mail. 

Steaiiisliips. — For Bay Terd, Old Perlican, Trinit}-, Catalina, Bonavisfca, 
Greenspond, Togo, Twillingate, Exploits Island, Tilt Cove, Little Bay Island, Nip- 
per's Harbor, and the Labrador coast, fortnightly, on Monday ; to Ferryland, Re- 
newse, Trepassey, Burin, St. Pierre, Harbor Briton, Burgeo, Little Bay (La Poile), 
and Channel, fortnightly, on Thursday or Friday (passing on to Sydney, C. B.,each 
alternate trip) ; to the ports on Conception Bay several times a -week, from Portugal 
Cove (see Route 56) ; to HaUfax, fortnightly, "by the Eastern Steamship Co.'s ves- 
sel, the Virgo ; to Halifax, fortnightly, by steamships of the Allan Line; to London- 
derry and Liverpool, fortnightly, by the Allan Line. 

St. John's, the capital of the Province of Ne-wfoundland, is situated in 
latitude 47" 33' 6" N., and longitude 52° 44' 7" W., and is built on the 
slope of a long hill Avhich rises from the shore of a deep and secure har- 
bor. At the time of the census of 1S69 there ■s\-ere 22,555 inhabitants in 
the city (there are now over 25,000): but the population, OAving to the 
peculiar character of its chief industry, is liable at any time to be in- 
creased or diminished by several thousand men. The greater part of the 
citizens are connected with the fisheries, directly or indirectly, and large 
fleets are despatched from the port throughout the season. Their return, 
or the arrival of the sealing-steamers, with their great crews, brings new 
life to the streets, and oftentimes results in such general "rows" as re- 
quire the attendance of a large police-force. The intei'ests of the city are 
all with the sea, from which are drawn its revenues, and over which pass 
the fleets which bring in provisions from the Provinces and States to the 
S. W. The manufactures of St. John's are insignificant, and consist, for 
the most part, of biscuit-bakeries and oil-refineries (on the opposite side 
of the harbor). An immense business is done by the mercantile houses 
on Water St. in furnishing supplies to the outports (a term applied to all 
the other ports of Newfoundland except St. John's); and one firm alone 
has a trade amounting to $ 12,000,000 a year. For about one month, 
during the busy season, the streets are absolutely crowded Avith the people 
from the N. and "W. coasts, selling their fish and oil, and laying in pro- 
visions and other supplies for the ensuing year. The commercial interests 
are served by three banks and a chamber of commerce ; and the literary 
standard of society is maintained by the St. John's Athenaum and the 
Catholic Institute. The city is supplied with gas, and Avater is brought 
in from a lake 4^ j\I, distant, by works which cost $ 360,000. 

" In trying to describe St. John's, there is some difficulty in applying an adjec- 
tive to it sufficiently distinctive and appropriate. We find other cities coupled with 
-words which at once give their predominant characteristic ; London the richest, 
Paris the gayest, St. Petersburg the coldest. In one respect the chief town of New- 
foundland has, 1 believe, no rival ; "we may, therefore, call it the fishiest of modern 
capitals. Round a great part of the harbor are sheds, acres in extent, roofed with 
cod split in half, laid on like slates, drying in the sun, or rather the air, for there is 



ST. JOHN'S. Route 52. 191 

not much of the former to depend upon The town is irregular and dirty, built 

chiefly of wood, the dampness of the chmate rendering stone unsuitable." (Eliot 
Warburton.) 

The harbor is small, but deep, and is so thoroughly landlocked that the 
water is always smooth. Here may generally be seen two or three British 
and French frigates, and at the close of the season these narrow waters are 
well filled with the vessels of the fishing-fleets and the powerful sealing- 
steamers. Along the shores are the fish-stages, where immense quantities 
of cod, heri'ing, and salmon are cured and made ready for exportation. 
On the S. shore are several wharves right under the cliffs, and also a float- 
ing dock which takes up vessels of 800 tons' burden. The entrance to the 
harbor is called the * Narrows, and is a stupendous cleft in the massive 
ridge which lines the coast. It is about 1,800 ft. long, and at its narrow- 
est point is but 660 ft. wide. On either side rise precipitous walls of sand- 
stone and conglomerate, of which Signal Hill (on the N. side) reaches an 
altitude of 520 ft., and the southern ridge is nearly 700 ft. high. Vessels 
coming in from the ocean are unable to see the Narrows ixntil close upon 
it, and steer for the lofty block-house on Signal Hill. The points at the 
entrance were formerly well fortified, and during war-time the harbor was 
closed by a chain drawn across the Narrows, but the batteries are now in 
a neglected condition, and are nearly disarmed. 

The city occupies the rugged hill on the N. of the harbor, and is built 
on three parallel streets, connected by steep side-streets. The houses are 
mostly low and unpainted Avooden buildings, crowding out on the side- 
walks, and the general appearance is that of poverty and thriftlessness. 
Even the wealthy merchants generally occupy houses far beneath their 
station, since they seem to regard Newfoundland as a place to get for- 
tunes in and then retire to England to make their homes. This prin- 
ciple was universally acted on in former years, but latterly pleasant villas 
are being erected in the suburbs, and a worthier architectural appearance 
is desired and expected for the ancient capital. Water Street is the main 
business thoroughfare, and follows the curves of the harbor- shore for about 
1^ M. Its lower side is occupied by the great mercantile houses which 
supply " fish-and-fog-land " with provisions, clothing, and household re- 
quirements; and the upper side is lined with an alternation of cheap shops 
and liquor-saloons. In the N. part is the Custom House, and near the cen- 
tre is the spacious building of the Market-Hall and the Post-Office. To the 
S., Water Street connects with the causeway and bridge of boats which 
crosses the head of the harbor. Admonished by several disastrous fires, 
the city has caused Water St. to be built upon in a substantial manner, 
and the stores, though very plain, are solidly and massively constructed. 

The Anglican Cathedral stands about midway up the hill, over the 
old burying-ground. It was planned by Sir Gilbert Scott, the most emi- 
nent British architect of the present era, and is in the early English Gothic 



192 Route 5-2. ST. JOHX'S. 

architecture. Owing to the inability of the Church to raise sufficient funds 
(for the missions at the outports demand all her revenues), the cathedral 
is but partly finished, the end of the nare being boarded up and furnished 
Avith a cheap temporary altar. The lofty proportions of the interior and 
the fine Gothic colonnades of stone between the nave and aisles, together 
■with the high lancet-windows, form a pleasant picture. 

The * Eoman Catholic Cathedral is the most stately building in New- 
foundland, and occupies the crest of the ridge, commanding a noble * view 
over the city and harbor and adjacent country-, and looking through the 
Narrows on to the open sea. The prospect from the cathedral terrace on 
a moonlight night or at the time of a clear sunrise or sunset is especially 
to be commended. In the front part of the grounds is a colossal statue of 
St. Peter, and other large statues are seen near the building. The cathe- 
dral is an immense stone structure, with twin towers on the front, and is 
sun-ounded with a long internal corridor, or cloister. There are no aisles, 
but the whole building is thrown into a broad nave, from which the tran- 
septs diverge to X. and S. The stone of which it is constructed was 
brought from Conception Bay and from Dunleary, Ireland, and the .walls 
were raised by the free and voluntary labors of the people. Clustered 
about the cathedral are the Bishojfs Palace, the convent and its schools, 
and St. Bonaventure' s College (5 professors), where the missionaries are 
disciplined and the Catholic youth are taught in the higher branches of 
learning. 

Catholicism was founded on the island by Sir George Calvert (see Route 54) and 
liT the Bishop of Quebec ; suffered persecution from 1762 to ITS-i, when all priests 
were banished (though some returned in disguise) : and afterwards gained the chief 
power as a consequence of Irish immigration, upon which the bishops became arro- 
gant and autocratic, and the Province was, practically, governed from Cathedral 
HiU. The great pile of religious buildings then erected on this commanding height 
cost over S5C0.0C0, and the'present revenues of the diocese are princely in amount, 
being collected by the priests, who board the arriving fishing-vessels and assess their 
people. The Irish CathoUcs form a great majority of the citizens of St. John's. 

Near the cathedral are the old barracks of the Eoyal Newfoundland 
Companies and the garrisons from the British army. The Miliiary Road 
runs along the crest of the heights, and afibrds pleasant views over the 
harbor. On this road is the Colonial Building", a substantial structiire 
of gray stone, well retired from the carriage-way, and adorned with a 
massive portico of Doric columns upholding a pediment which is occupied 
by the Eoyal Arms of Great Britain and Ireland. The colonial legislature 
meets in this building, and occupies plain but comfortable halls. The 
Government House is N. of the Colonial Building, and is the ofiicial man- 
sion of the governor of the Province (Col. S. J. Hill, C. B.). It was built 
in 1828-30, and cost 8 240,000. The surrounding grounds are pleasantly 
diversified with groves, flower-beds, and walks, and are much visited by 
the aristocracy of St. John's, during the short but brilliant summer 
season. 



ST. JOHN'S. Route 52. 193 

Passing out through the poor suburb called "Maggotty Cove," a -walk 
of about 20 minutes leads to the top of * Signal Hill. 

" Higli above, on our r., a ruined monolith, on a mountain-peak (Crow's Nest), 
marks the site oif an old battery, while to the 1., sunk in a hollow, a black bog lies 
sheltered amid the bare bones of mother earth, here mainly composed of dark red 
sandstones and conglomerate, passing down by regular gradations to the slate below. 
A sudden turn of the road reveals a deep solitary tarn, some 350 ft. above the sea, 
in which the guardian rocks reflect their purple foces, and where the ripple of the 
muskrat, hurrying across, alone disturbs the placid surface. We pass a hideous- 
lookiag barrack, and, crossing the soft velvety sward on the crest, reach a little bat- 
tery, from the parapets of which we look down, down, almost 500 ft. perpendicu- 
larly, right into ' the Narrows,' the strait or creek between the hills connecting the 
broad Atlantic with the oval harbor within. The great south-side hills, covered 
with luxuriant wild vegetation, and skeined with twisting torrents, loom across the 
strait so close that one might fancy it almost possible a stone could fly from the 
hand to the opposite shore. On our left the vast ocean, with nothing — not a rock 
— between us and Galway ; on our right, at the other end of the narrow neck of 
water directly beneath, the inner basin, expanding towards the city, with the back- 
ground of blue hills as a setting to the picture, broken only in their continuous out- 
line by the twin towers of the Catholic cathedral, ever thus from all points perform- 
ing their mission of conspicuity. Right below us, 400 ft. perpendicular, we lean 
over the grass parapet and look carefully down into the little battery guarding the 
narrowest part of the entering-strait, where, in the old wars, heavy chains stretched 

from shore to shore The Narrows are full of fishing-boats returning with the 

silver spoils of the day glistening in the hold of the smacks, which, to the number 
of forty or fifty at a time, tack and fill like a fleet of white swans against the western 
evening breeze. Even as we look down on the decks, they come, and still they come, 
round the bluff point of Fort Amherst, from the bay outside." (Lt.-CoL. McCrea.) 

"After dinner we set off for Signal Hill, the grand observatory of the countrj^, 

both by nature and art Little rills rattled by ; paths wound among rocky 

notches and grassy chasms, and led out to dizzy ' over-looks ' and ' short-ofiFs.' The 
town with its thousand smokes sat in a kind of amphitheatre, and seemed to enjoy 

the spectacle of sails a:.d colors in the harbor We struck into a fine military 

road, and passed spacious stone barracks, soldiers and soldiers' families, goats and 
little gardens. From the observatory, situated on the craggy peninsula, both the 
rugged interior and the expanse of ocean were before us." (Noble.) 



" Britones et Nonnani anno a Christo nato MCCCCCIIII. has terras invenere " ; 
and in August, 1527, 14 sail of Norman, Breton, and Portuguese vessels were sh'el- 
tered in the harbor of St. John's. In 1542 the Sieur de Roberval, Viceroy of New 
France, entered here with 3 ships and 200 colonists bound for Quebec. He found 17 
vessels at anchor in the harbor, and soon afterward there arrived Jacques Cartier 
and the Quebec colonists, discouraged, and returning to France. Roberval ordered 
him back, but he stole out of the harbor during the darkness of night and returned 
to France. A few years later the harbor was visited by the exploring ship Marij of 
Guiiford, and the reverend Canon of St Paul, who had undertaken the unpriestly 
function of a discoverer, sent hence a chronicle of the voyage to Cardinal Wolsey. 

In August, 1583, Sir Humphrey Gilbert (see page 135) entered the harbor of St. 
John's, with a fleet consisting of the Delight, Golden Hind, Swalloiv, and Squirrel. 
He took formal possession of the port and of the island of Newfoundland, receiving 
the obedience of 36 ship-masters then in the harbor. But the adventurous mari- 
ners were discontented with the rudeness of the country, and the learned Parme- 
nius wrote back to Hakluyt : " My good Hakluyt, of the manner of this country 
what shall I say, when I see nothing but a very wildernesse." In view of the date 
of Gilbert's occupation, Newfoundland claims the proud distinction of being the 
most ancient colony of the British Empire. In 1584 St. John's was visited by the 
fleet of Sir Francis Drake, which had swept the adjacent seas and left a line of burn- 
ing wrecks behind. 

In 1698 the rown was so strongly guarded that it easily repulsed the Chevalier 
Nesmond, who attacked it with ten French men-of-war. The expedition ofJ;he 
daring Iberville was more successful, and occupied the place. In November, 1704, 
9 M 



194: Route 52. ST. JOHN'S. 

a fleet from Quebec landed a French and Indian force at Placentia, whence they 
advanced about the middle of January. They veere about 400 strong, and crossed 
the Peninsula of Avalon on snow-shoes. The town of Bay Bulls (Btboulle) surren- 
dered on their approach, and a long and painful midwinter march ensued, orer the 
mountains and through the deep snows. The French militia of Placentia were sent 
in at dawn to surprise the fort at St. John's, but could not enter the works for lack 
of scaling-ladders ; so they contented themselTcs with occupying the town and 
Quiddy Yiddy. The fort was now besieged for 33 days, in a season of intense cold, 
when even the harbor was frozen over ; but the English held out valiantly, and 
showered balls and bombs upon the town, finally succeeding in dislodging the en- 
emy and putting them in full retreat. 

In June, 1762, the Count d'Hausonville entered the Bay Bulls with a powerful 
French fleet, consisting of the Robuste, 74; L'Eveille, 64; La Garonne, 44; and 
La Licorne, 30. He escorted several transports, whence 1,500 soldiers were landed. 
This force marched on St. John's, which surrendered on summons, together with 
the English frigate Gravimont. Lord Colville's fleet hastened up from Halifax and 
blockaded Admiral De Ternay in the harbor of St. John, while land forces were de- 
barked at Torbay and Quiddy Viddy. The last-named detachment (Royal Ameri- 
cans and Highlanders) proceeded to storm the works on Signal Hill, but the French 
fought desperately, and held them at bay until the English forces from Torbay came 
in and succeeded in carrying the entire line of heights. In the mean time, a dense 
fog had settled over the coast, under whose protection De Ternay led his squadron 
through the British line of blockade, and gained the open sea. In 1796 a formidable 
French fleet, under Admiral Richery (consisting of 7 line-of-battle ships and several 
frigates), menaced St. John's, then commanded by Admiral Sir James WaUace. 
Strong batteries were erected along the Narrows ; fire-ships were drawn up in the 
harbor ; a chain was stretched across the entrance ; and the entire body of the 
people was called vinder arms. The hostile fleet blockaded the port for many days, 
but was kept at bay by the batteries on Signal Hill ; and after an ineffectual attempt 
at attack, sailed away to the S. Feb. 12, 1816, a disastrous fire occurred at St. 
John's, by which 1,500 persons were left homeless ; and great suffering would have 
ensued had it not been for the citizens of Boston, who despatched a ship loaded with 
provisions and clothing for gratuitous distribution among the impoverished people. 
Nov. 7, 1817, another terrible fire occurred here, by which § 2,000,000 worth of 
property was destroyed; and this was followed, within 2 weeks, by a third dis- 
astrous conflagration. This succession of calamities came near resulting in the 
abandonment of the colon}', and the people were goaded by hunger to a succession 
of deeds of crime and to organized violations of the laws. In 1825 the first highway 
was built (from St. John's to Portugal Cove) ; in 1833 the first session of the Colonial 
Parliament was held ; and the first steamship in the Newfoundland waters arrived 
here in 1840. 

In 1860 the city was convulsed by a terrible riot, arising from politico-rehgious 
causes, and threatening wide ruin. An immense mob of armed Irishmen attacked 
and pillaged the stores on Water St., and filled the lower town with rapine and rob- 
bery. The ancient organization called the Royal Newfoundland Companies was 
ordered out and posted near the Market House, where the troops suffered for hours 
the gibes of the plunderers, until they were fired upon in the twilight, when 
they returned a point-blank volley, which caused a sad carnage in the insurgent 
crowd. Then the great Cathedral bells rang out wildly, and summoned all the 
rioters to that building, where the Bishop exhorted them to peace and forbearance, 
under pain of excommunication. After a remarkable interview, the next day, be- 
tween the Bishop and Gov. Sir Alexander Bannei-man, this tragical revolt was 
ended. 

In 1870 St. John's had 21 sailing-vessels and 6 steamers engaged in the sealing 
business, and their crews amounted to 1,584 men. In 1869 (the latest accessible 
statistics) 688 vessels, with a tonnage of 109,043 tons, and employing 5,466 men, en- 
tered this port ; and in the same year there were cleared hence 577 vessels, with 
4,937 men. 



PORTUGAL COVE. Route 53. 195 



53. The Environs of St. John's. 

" On either side of the city of St. John's, stretching in a semicircle along the rug- 
ged coast, at an average radius from the centre of 7 or 8 M., a number of little fish- 
ing-coves or bays attract, during the sweet and enjoyable summer, all persons who 
can command the use of a horse to revel in their beauties. Each little bay is but a 
slice of the high cliffs scooped out by the friction of the mighty pressure of the At- 
lantic waves ; and leading down to its shingled beach, each boasts of a lovely green 
valley through which infallibly a tumbling noisy trout-burn pours back the waters 
evaporated from the parent surface." (Lt.-Col. McCrea.) 

The country about the capital is not naturally productive, but has been made to 
bring forth fruit and vegetables by careful labor, and now supports a considerable 
farming population. The roads are fine, being for the most part macadamized and 
free from mud. 3 M. beyond the city is the Lunatic Asylum, pleasantly situated in 
a small forest. 

Quiddy-Viddy Lake is frequently visited by the people of St. John's. 
The favorite drive is to Portugal Cove, over a road that has been de- 
scribed as possessing a " sad and desolate beauty." This road passes the 
Windsor Lake, or Twenty-Mile Pond, " a large picturesque sheet of water, 
with some pretty, lonely-looking islands." The inn at Portugal Cove 
looks out on a handsome cascade, and is a favorite goal for wedding-tours 
from St. John's. 

" The scenery about Portugal Cove well repays the ride of nearly 10 M. on a good 
road from St. John's. It is wildly romantic, and just before entering the village is 
very beautiful. A succession of lofty hills on each side tower over the road, and 
shut out everything but their conical or mammillated peaks, covered with wild 
stunted forest and bold masses of rock, breaking through with a tiny waterfall from 
the highest, which in winter hangs down in perpendicular ridges of yellow ice. 
Turning suddenly out of one of the wildest scenes, you cross a little bridge, and the 
romantic scattered village is hanging over the abrupt rocky shore, with its fish-flakes 
and busy little anchorage open to the sight, closed in the distance by the shores of 
Conception Bay, lofty and blue, part of which are concealed by the picturesque Belle 
Isle." (Sir R. Boxntcastl3.) 

" On approaching Portugal Cove, the eye is struck by the serrated and picturesque 
outline of the hills which run along the coast from it towards Cape St. Francis, 
and presently delighted with the wild beauty of the little valley or glen at the mouth 
of which the cove is situated. The road winds with several turns down the side of 
the valley, into which some small brooks hurry their waters, flashing in the sun- 
shine as they leap over the rocks and down the ledges, through the dark green of 
the woods. On turning the shoulder of one of the hill-slopes, the view opens upoa 
Conception Bay, with the rocky points of the cove immediately below." (Prop. 
Jukes.) 

Another favorite excursion is to Virginia Water, the former summer 
residence of the governors of Newfoundland. It is reached by way of 
the King's Bridge and the pretty little Quiddy-Viddy Lake, beyond which 
the Ballyhaly Bog is crossed, and the carriage reaches the secluded domain 
of Virginia Water. It is situated on a beautiful lake of deep water, 3 M. 
in circumference, "indented with little grass-edged bays, fringed and 
feathered to the limpid edge with dark dense woods." Beyond this point 
the drive may be protracted to Logie Bay, a small cove between projecting 
cliffs, with bold and striking shore scenery. Logie Bay is 4 M., and Tor- 
bay is 8 - 9 M. from St. John's, by a fine road which crosses the high and 
mossy barrens, and affords broad sea-views from the cliffs. The country 
is thinly settled, and is crossed by several trout-brooks. 



196 HouteSl TOEBAY. 

Logic Bay is remarkable for the ■vrildness of ite rook and cliff scenery. " Nothing 
like a beach is to be found any^vhere on this coast, the descent to the sea being 
alw'ays difficult aud generally impracticable. In Logic Bay the thick-bedded dark 
s;indstoues and conglomerates stand bold and bare in round-topped hills and preci- 
pices 3-4CH) tl:. in" height, with occasional fissures traversing their jagged clifis, 
and the boiling waves of the Atlantic curling around their feet in white eddies or 
leaping against their sides with huge spouts of foam and spray." (Fkof. Jikes.) 

"Torbay is an arm of the sea. — a short, strong arm with a slim hand and finger, 
reaching into the rocky land and touching the waterfiills and rapids of a pretty 
brook. " Here is a little village, with Romish and Protestant steeples, and the dwell- 
ings of fishermen, with the univei-sal appendages of fishing-houses, boats, and Hakes. 
One seldom looks upon a hamlet so picturesque and wild." On the N. shore of the 
bay is a long line of cliffs, 3 -400 tl:. high, surf-beaten and majestic, and finely 
observed by taking a boat out from Torbay and coasting to the N. "At one point, 
where the rocks recede from the main front aud form a kind of headland, the strata, 
6-S ft. thick, assume the form of a pyramid, from a broad base of a hundred yards 
or more running up to meet in a point. The heart of this vast cave has partly 
fiillen out, and left the resemblance of an enormous tent with cavernous recesses 
and halls, in which the shades of evening were already lurking, and the surf was 
sounding mournfully. Occasionally it was musical, pealing forth like the low tones 
of a great oi-gan with awful solemnity. Now and then, the gloomy silence of a min- 
ute was broken by the crash of a billow far withiu, when "the revert era tioiis were 
like the slamming of great doors." 

" After p;\ssing this grand specimen of the architecture of the sea, there appeared 
long rocky reaches, hke Eg,vptian temples, old dead cliffs of yellowish gray checked 
off by hues and seams into squares, and having the resemblance, where they have 
fallen out into the ocean, of doors and windows opening in upon the fresher stone."' 
(.Noble.) 

54. The Strait Shore of Avalon. — St. John's to Cape Race. 

That portion of the Penitusula of Avalon which fronts to the eastward on the 
Atlantic has been termed the Strait Shore, on account of its generally undeviating 
line of direction. Its outports may be visited either by the Friday mail-con- 
veyance, through Petty Harbor, Bay Bulls, Ferryland, and Kenewse, or by the 
"Western Coastal steamer (,see Route 60). 

Dis^taiices Ijv Koad. — St. John's to Blackhead, i M. ; Pettv Harbor, 10; 
Bay Bulls. 19 : Witless Bay. 22 ; Mobile, 24 ; Toad Cove, 26 : La Manche, 32 ; 
Brigus, 34; Cape Broyle,3S: Caplin Cove, 42; Ferryland, 44 ; Aquafort,4S; Fer- 
meuse, 51 ; Renewse, 54 ; Cape Race, ti4. 

" The road, one of the finest I ever saw, — an old-fashioned English gravel-road, 
smooth and hard almost as iron, a very luxury for the wheels of a springless wagon, 
— keeps up the bed of a small river, a good-sized trout-stream, flowing from the in- 
land valley into the harbor of St John's. Contrasted with the bold regions that 
front the ocean, these valleys are soft and fertile. We passed smooth meadows, and 
sloping plough-lands, and green pastures, and houses peeping out of pretty groves. 
One might have called it a Canadian or New-Hampshire vale." The road passes 
several lakelets and trout-streams, and gives fine views of the ocean on the 1. , being 
also one of the most smooth and firmly built of highways. '" No nation makes such 
roads as these, in a land bristling with rugged difficulties, that has not wound its 
way up to the siunmit of power and cultivation." The hills along the coast closely 
resemble the Cordillera peaks ; and from the bald summits on the W., Trinity Bay 
may be seen. 

The miiil-road running S. from St. John's pusses Waterford Bridge and 
soon approaches Blackhead, a Catholic village near an iron-bound shore 
whose great clifis have been worn into fantastic shapes by the crash and 
attrition of the Atlantic surges. Near this place is Cape Spear, the most 
easterly point of Xorth America, 1,656 ^I. fi-om Valentia Bay, in Ireland. 
On the summit of the cape, 264 ft. above the sea, is a red-and- white striped 
tower sustaining a revolving light which is visible for 22 M. 



BAY BULLS. Route 51 197 

The road now passes between " woody banks running through an un- 
dulating country but half reclaimed on the r., while on the 1. the slopes 
stretch up to the breezy headlands, beyond which there is nothing but sea 
and cloud from this to Europe." Petty Harbor is 4 M. S. AV. of Cape 
Spear and 10 M. from St. John's, and is a village of 900 inhabitants, with 
a refinery of cod-liver oil and long lines of evergreen fish-flakes. Oflf this 
point H. B. M. frigate Tweed was wrecked in 1814, and 60 men were 
drowned. The houses of Petty Harbor are situated in a narrow glen at 
the foot of frowning and barren ridges. The hai'bor at the foot of this 
ravine is small and insecure. The dark hills to the W. attain a height of 
700 ft. along the unbroken shore which leads S. to Bay Bulls ; and at 
about 4 ]\I. from Petty Harbor is the * Spout, a deep cavern in the sea- 
ward cliffs, in whose top is a hole, through which, at high tide and in a 
heavy sea, the Avater shoots up every half-minute in a roaring fountain 
which is seen 3 M. off at sea. The road now approaches lonclay Hill (810 
ft. high), the chief elevation on this coast, and reaches Bay Bulls, a village 
of 700 inhabitants. This is one of the most important of the outports, and 
affords a refuge to vessels that are unable, on account of storms or ice, to 
make the harbor of St. John's. There are several farms near the bay, but 
most of the inhabitants are engaged in the cod-fishery, which is carried 
on from large open boats. This ancient settlement was exposed to great 
vicissitudes during the conflicts between the French and the English for 
the possession of Newfoundland, and was totally destroyed by Admiral 
Richery (French) in 1796. Fine sporting is found in this vicinity, all along 
shore, and shooting-parties leave St. John's during the season for several 
days' adventure hereabouts. 

In 1696 the French frigates Pelican, Diamant, Count de Toulouse, Vendange, 
Philippe^ and Harcourt met the British man-of-war Sap-phire off Cape Spear, and 
chased it into Bay Bulls. A naval battle of several hours' duration was closed by 
the complete discomfiture of the British, who set fire to the shattered Sapphire and 
abandoned her. The French sailors boarded her immediately, but were destroyed 
by the explosion of the magazine. 

Witless Bay is the next village, and has nearly 1,000 inhabitants, with a 
large and prominent Catholic church. Cod-fishing is carried on to a great 
extent off this shore, also off Mobile, the next settlement to the S. Beyond 
the rock-bound hamlets of Toad Cove, La Manche, and Brigus, the road 
reaches Cape Broyle. 

In 1628 Cape Broyle was captured by Admiral de la Rade, with three French vrar- 
vessels, who also took the fishing-fleet then in the harbor. But Sir George Calvert 
sent from the capital of Avalon two frigates (one of which carried 24 guns) and sev- 
eral hundred men, on whose approach " the French let slip their cables, and made 
to sea as fast as they could." Calvert's men retaliated by harrying the French 
stations at Trepassey, where they captured six ships of Bayonne and St. Jean 
de Luz. 

Cape Broyle is a prosperous fishing-settlement on Broyle Harbor, near 

the mountainous headland of Cape Broyle (552 ft. high). There is good 

salmon-fishing on the river which runs S. E. to the harbor from the foot 

ofPIellHill. 



lOS ^01^(54, FEREYLAXD. 

Ferryland is 2 M. bevond the Caplin-Cove settlement, and is the capi- 
tal of tUo district ot" Fem-land. It has about 700 inhabitants, and is well 
located on level ground near the head of the hai"bor. In the immediate 
vicinity are several prosperous tarms, and picturesque scenery surrounds 
the harbor on all sides. To the S. E. is Ferryland Head, on -which is a 
fixed white light, 200 ft. above the sea, and visible for 16 M. Otf this point 
are the slender spires of rock called the Hare's £ar$, projecting from the 
sea to the height of 50 tt. 

In 161-1 (lti22^ Kiu^c James I. grmtjted the great jn^ninsula between Trinitr and 
riaiH^ntia Bays to Sir Gtorg<? Calvert, then Seoi-^t;iry of State. The grantee uauievl 
his new domain Avaloii, in honor of the district wherv Ohristisui tnidiuon claims 
that the Gospel ^n^s fii-st preachevl in Bi-itain ^the present Glastonbury). It was de- 
signed to found here a Christian colony, with the broadest principles of toleration 
and charity. Calvert sent out a considerable comivuiy of settlers, under the gorern- 
ment of Capt. Wyuue, and a colony was pUinted at I'errkiand. The reports sent 
back to England concerning the soil and pnxiuctious of the new country were so 
favorable that Sir George Ctvlvert and his family soon joined the colonists. Under 
his administration an equitable government was established, fortitictvtions were 
erected, and other improvements instituted. Lord Baitimt re had but little pleasure 
of his settlement in Araion. He found that he had K^en greatly deceived about the 
climate and the nature of the soil. The Pnritivns also began to harass him ; and 
Erasmus Stourton,one of their ministers, not only preached dissent under his eyes 
at Ferryland. but went to England and reported to the Privy Council that Balti- 
more's priests Siiid mass and had "all the other ceirmonies of the Church of Rome, 
in the ample manner as "t is used in Spain." Finally, after trials by storm and by 
schismatics, Lord Baltimore died (in 11=32), leaving to his son Cecil. 2d Loni Btilti- 
more. the honor of founding Maryland, on the grant lUready secured from the king. 
In that more fovonxi southern clime afterwards arose the great city which com- 
memorates and honors the nan^e of BaltdiIORE. 

In lt>o7 Sir David Kirke wi\s appointed Count Palatine of Newfoundland, and estab- 
lished himself at Ferry lami He hoisted the royal standard on the forts, and main- 
taiueil a strong (and sometin\os harsh^i rxile over the island. At the outbreak of the 
English Revolution ("lt'42'». Rirke"s brothers joined King Charles's forces and fought 
bravely through tlie war. while Sir David strengthened his Newfoundland forts and 
established a powerful and well-finned fleet. He offered the King a safe asylum in 
his domain : and the fiery Prince Rupert, with the roytil Channel fleet, was sjuling 
to Newfoundland to join Kirke's forces, when he wiis headed off by the fleet of the 
Commonwealth, under Sir George Ayscue. After the fivll of the Stuarts, Sir David 
\>-as carrievl to liig'.and in a vessel of the Republic (in li^l). to be tried on various 
charges ; but he bribed Cromwell's son in-law, and was releasevi. returning to Forry- 
landr where he dievi in 1i5ck3. after having governed the islivnd for over 20 years. At 
a later dav this town became a port ot^some importance, and was the scene of re- 
Tix-ated naviU attacks dvuring the French wars. In 1(373 it was taken and plundered 
bv -i Dutch frigates. 

In lo94 Ferryland was attacked by 2 large French frigates, carrying 90 guns, 
which opened a furious cannonade on the town. But the If'iHiavi and yiarti, 16, 
wiis lying in the harbor, with 9 merchant-ships, and their crews built batteries at 
the harbor-mo\ith. whence, ■with the guns of the privateer, they inflictevi stich dam- 
age on the enemy that they ■withdrew, after a 5 hours' cannonade, having lost 
alKiut 90 men. In 1762 the powerful French fleet of Admiral de Ternay was driven 
off by a battery on Bois Island. 

AquaTort lies S. W. of Ferryland, and is a sm.all hamlet situated on a 
long, deep, and narrow harbor embosomed in lofty hills. The next settle- 
ment isFtrr/jtwst. Avith 600 inhabitants and a Catholic church and convent. 
It is on the shore of Admiral's Cove, in the deep and secure harbor of 
Fenneuse, and the people are engaged in the cod and salmon fisheries. 
iitntirsc is an ancient and decadent port 16 M. S. of Ferryland, situated on 



CAPE RACE. Route 54. 199 

an indifferent harbor which lies between Burnt Point and Eenewse Head. 
3-4 M. inland are the rugged hummocks called the Red Hills, whence 
the eastern hill range runs 30 M. N. across Avalon to Holyrood. 

6 - 8 M. from Renewse are the tall and shaggy hills called the Butterpots 
which command broad views over Avalon, and from Bay Bulls to the W. shore of 
Trepassey Bay. The Butterpots of Holyrood are also seen from this point ; andPro£ 
Jukes counted 80 lakes in sight from the main peak (which is 955 ft. high). 

S. of this point extends a fatal iron-bound coast, on which scores of vessels veiled 
in impenetrable fog or swept inward by resistless storms, have been dashed in'pieces 
A very slight error in reckoning will throw vessels bound S. of Cape Race upon this 
shore, and then, if the Cape Race and Ferry land lights are wrapped in the dense 
black fog peculiar to these waters, the chances of disaster are great. The erection 
of a fog-whistle on the cape has greatly lessened the perils of navigation here. The 
ocean steamships Ansilo- Saxon, Argo, and City of Philadelphia were lost on Cane 
Race. *^ 

Cape Kace is the S. E. point of Newfoundland, and is a rugged head- 
land of black slaty rock thi'own up in vertical strata. It is provided with 
a powerful light, 180 ft. above the sea, and visible for 19 M. The great 
polar current sweeps in close by the cape and turns around it to the 
W. N. W., forming, together with the ordinary tides and the bay-currents, 
a complexity of streams that causes many wrecks. 

Icebergs are to be seen off this shore at almost all seasons, and the dense fogs are 
often illumined by the peculiar white glare which precedes them. Field-ice is also 
common here during the spring and early summer, but is easily avoided by the 
warning of the "ice blink." Throughout the summer and autumn the fog broods 
over this shore almost incessantly, and vessels are navigated by casting the lead and 
following the soundings which are marked out with such precision on the Admi- 
ralty charts. 6 M. E. of Cape Race is the Ballard Bank, which is 18 M. long and 
2-12 M. wide, with a depth of water of 15 - 26 fathoms. 

Cape Race is distant, by great-circle sailing, from New York, 1,010 M. ; Boston, 
820; Portland, 779 ; St. John, N. B., 715; Halifax, 463; Miramichi, 492; Quebec, 
836 ; Cape Clear, 1,713 ; Galway, 1,721 ; Liverpool, 1,970. 

The Grand Banks of Newfoundland are about 50 M. E. of Cape Race. 
They extend for 4 degrees N. and S. and 5 degrees E. and W. (at 45° N. 
latitude) running S. to a point. They consist of vast submerged sand- 
banks, on which the water is from 30 to 60 fathoms deep, and are strewn 
with shells. Here are found innumerable codfish, generally occupying 
the shallower waters over the sandy bottoms, and feeding on the shoals of 
smaller fish below. They pass out into the deeper waters late in Novem- 
ber, but return to the Banks in February, and fatten rapidly. Immense 
fleets are engaged in the fisheries here, and it is estimated that over 
100,000 men are dependent on this industry. 

Throughout a great part of the spring, summer, and fall, the Grand Banks are 
covered by rarely broken fogs, through which falls an almost incessant slow rain. 
Sometimes these fogs are so dense that objects within GO ft. are totally invisible, at 
which times the fishing-vessels at anchor are liable to be run down by the great 
Atlantic steamers. The dangerous proximity of icebergs (which drift across and 
ground on the Banks) is indicated by the sudden and intense coldness which they 
send through even a midsummer day, by the peculiar white glare in the air about 
them, and by the roaring of the breakers on their sides. 

Tt was on the Grand Banks, not far from Cape Race, that the first battle of the 
Seven Years' War was fought. June 8, 1755, the British 60-gun frigates Dunkirk 



200 -Route 00. THE GKAXD BAXKS. 

and Dfnance ^ere cruisins: aboivt in a dense fog, when they met the French rcen-of- 
war -l.Vi./f and Li.s. For" five hours the battle continued, and a continual can- 
nonade was kept up between the hostile ships. The French were overmatched, but 
fousht valiantlv. iuflictins hearr losses ou the assailants (the Dunkirk alone lost 90 
meu^. When they finally" surrendered, the Ltjs was foimd to contain §400,000 in 
specie and S compiuiies of infantry. 

The vicinity of Cape Race wis for some time the cruising-eround of the U. S. 
frigate Coustitittioiu in 1S12, and in these waters she captui-ed the Adioiia, the Adt- 
linf, and other vessels. 

Xear the edg\^ of the Grand Bank (in lat. 41'"' 41' N.. long 55^ IS' W.') occurred 
the famous sea-fiirht between the Con:>titution and the Giierricrt. whose result filled 
the United States with rejoicing, and impaired the prestige of the British navy. Ou 
the afternoon of Aug. 19. ISlii. the Coustitution sighted the Gucrricre, and bore 
down upon her with double-shottovl batteries. The British ship was somewhat in- 
ferior in force, but attacked the American with the confidence of victory. The Con- 
stitution received several broadsides in silence, but when within half pistol-shot dis- 
charged her tremendous batteries, and followed with such a fire of deadly precision 
that the Gii<rrricrc was soon left a dismasted and shattered wreck. The British ship 
then surrendered, having lost 101 men in the action, while her antagonist lost but 
14. The Guerricrc had 3S guns, and the Constitution had 44. 

Among the American privateers that cruised about the Grand Banks in 1S12 - 14, 
none was more successful than the Marn7ncth. of Baltimore. She captured the 
ships Ann and E^iza, Urania, Anisbu, Dobscn. SaHust, Uniza, Sarah, Sir Home 
Fqpham^ Champion , Mmtor, and many other rich prizes. 



" Far off by stormy Labrador — 

Far off'the Banks of Newfoundland, 
A\ here angry seas incessant roar. 

And fo^y mists their wings expand, 
The fishinp-schooners, black and low, 
For weary mouths sail to and fro." 

65. St. Jolin's to Labrador. — The Northern Coast of New- 
foimdland. 

The mail-steamer Leopard leaves St. John's. X. F.. every alternate Monday during 
the season of navigation, and visits the chief outports on the X. coast (so called). 
The fares are as follows: St. John's to Old Perlican or Bay Yerd, §2, — steer- 
age. 81-50: to Trinity, 8 4.40. — steerage. 82: to Bonavista, 85 50, — steerage, 
§"2.80: to Greenspond, 8 6, — steerage, 83: to Fogo, 8 6-50: to Twillingate, 8 7; 
to Exploits Island. 8 7-50 : to TUt Cove, Little Bay Island, or Nipper's Harbor, 8 8, 
— steerage, 8 4.:^.0: to Battle Harbor, 812. At Battle Harbor the Leopard meets 
the Hfrcules, the Labrador mail-steamer. 

The fare on the Labrador steamer is 8 2 a day, which includes both passage and 
meals. The northern boats are powerful and seaworthy, but the fare at their tables 
is necessarily of the plainest kind . The time which will be required for the Labrador 
trip is nearly four weeks (.from St. John's back to St. John's again). The expense 
is about 850. The journey should be begun before the middle of July, in order 
to avail of the short summer in these high latitudes. It would be prudent for gen- 
tlemen who desire to make this tour to write early in the season to the agents of the 
steamship lines, to assure themselves of due connections and to learn other particu- 
lars. Mr. J. Taylor TVood is the agent at Halifax for the steamer from that port to 
St. John's: and Walter Grieve & Co., St. John's, X. F., are the agents for the 
Northern Coastal Line. 

Passing out betrreen the stem and frowning portals of tlie harbor of St. 
John's, the steamer soon takes a northerly course, and opens the indenta- 
tion of LoQie Bay on the W. (see page 196). After running by the tall 
cliffs of Sugar Loaf and Eed Head (700 ft. high), Torhay is seen opening 
to the W., within which is the village of the same name. 



TRINITY. Route 55. 201 

About 8 M. beyond Torbay, the white shore of Cape St. Francis is seea 
on the port bow, and, if the Avater is rough, the great breakers may be 
seen Avhitening over the rocks whicla are called the Brandies. The course 
is now laid across the mouth of Conception Bay, which is seen extending 
to the S. W. for 30 M. 18 M. from Cape St. Francis, and about 40 M. from 
St. John's, the steamer passes between Bay Verd Head and Split Point, 
and stops oE Bay Verd, a village of about 600 inhabitants, situated on a 
broad and unsheltered bight of the sea. The fishing-grounds in this vicin- 
ity are among the best on the American coast, and attract large fleets of 
boats and schooners. The attention of the villagers is divided between 
fanning and fishing, the latter industry being by far the most lucrative. 
Roads lead out from Bay Verd S. to Carbonear and Harbor Grace (see 
Koute 56), and N. W. to the settlements on Trinity Bay. Soon after 
leaving Bay Verd, the steamer passes Baccalieu Island, a high and ridgy 
land 3^ M. long, and nearly 2 M. from the main. On its N. end is a pow- 
erful flashing light, elevated 380 ft. above the sea, and visible for 28 M. 

Although Cabot was the first professional discoverer (if the term may be used) to 
visit and explore the shores of Newfoundland, there is no doubt that these waters 
had long been the resort of the fishing-fleets of the Normans, Bretons, and Basques. 
Lescarbot claims that they had fished off these shores "for many centuries," and 
Cabot applied the name "Baccalaos" to the country because "in the seas there- 
about he found so great multitude.? of certain bigge fishes, much like unto Tunnies 
(which the inhabitants call Baccalaos), that they sometimes stayed his shippes." 
Baccalaos is the ancient Basque name for codfish, and its extensive use by the 
natives in place of their own word Apege, meaning the same thing, is held as con- 
clusive proof that they had been much in communication with Basque fishermen 
before the arrival of Cabot. Cabot gave this name to the continent as far as he 
explored it, but in the map of 1640 it is appUed only to the islet which now re- 
tains it. 

On her alternate trips the vessel rounds in about Grates Point, and stops 
at Old Perlican (see Route 57). Otherwise, it runs across the mouth of 
Trinity Bay for about 20 M., on a X. W. course, and enters the harbor of 
Trinity, 115 M. from St. John's. The entrance is bold and imposing, and 
the harbor is one of the best on the island, affording a land-locked anchor- 
age for the largest fleets. It is divided into two ai-ms by a high rocky 
peninsula (380 ft. high), on whose S. side are the wharves and houses of 
the town. Tiinity has about 1,500 inhabitants, and is a port of entry and 
the capital of the district of Trinity. Considerable farming is done in the 
coves near the head of the harbor. Roads lead out to the S. shore (see 
Route 57), and also to Salmon Cove, 5 M ; English Harbor, 7; Ragged 
Harbor, 16; and Catalina, 20. 

On leaving Trinity Harbor, the course is S. E until Green Bay Head 
and the Horse Chops are passed, when it turns to the N. E., and runs along 
Avithin sight of a high and cliffy shore. Beyond the Ragged Isles is seen 
Green Island, where there is a fixed white light, visible for 15 M., around 
Avhich (through rough water if the wind is E.) the vessel passes, threading 
a labyrinth of shoals and rocks, and enters the harbor of Catalina, re- 
9* 



202 Roide 55. BONAVISTA. 

mai-kable for its sudden and frequent intermittent tides. The town of 
Catalina has 1,300 inhabitants, with 2 churches, of which that of the Epis- 
copalians is a fine piece of architecture, tliough built of wood. The main 
part of the settlement is on the W. side of the harbor, and has a consider- 
able maritime trade. The adjacent waters abound in salmon, and deli- 
cious edible whelks are found on the rocks. Besides the highway to 
Trinity (20 M.), a rugged road leads N. to Bonavista in 10 M. Catalina 
was visited in 1534 by Cartier, who named it St. Catherine. 

On leaving Catalina Harbor, North Head is passed, and after running 
N. E. by N. 3 M. Flowers Head is left on the port bow. About 2 M. be- 
yond, the Bird Islets are seen on the 1., near which is the fishing-settlement 
oi Bird Island Cove (670 inhabitants), with its long and handsome beach. 
A short distance inland is seen the Burnt Ridge, a line of dark bleak hills 
rising to a height of 500 ft. The Dollarman Bank, fomous for codfish, is 
now crossed, and on the 1. is seen Cape Largent and Spiller Point, oflf which 
are the precipitous and tower-like * Spiller EocJcs, surrounded by the sea. 
The steamer now passes Cape Bonavista, on which is a red-and-white 
flashing-light, 150 ft. above the sea, and visible for 15 M. 

The re-discovery of Newfoundland (after the Northmen''s voyages 5 centuries be- 
fore) was effected in June, 1497, by Cabot, a Venetian in the service of Henry 
VII. of England, sailing in the ship Mattheic, of Bristol. He gave the name of Bona 
Vista (" Fair View "), or Prima Vista (" First View "), to the first point of the coast 
■which he saw, and that name has since been attached to this northerly cape, since 
it is believed that this was the location of the new-found shore. (The reader of Bid- 
die's "Memoirs of Sebastian Cabot " will, however, be much puzzled to know what 
point, if any, Cabot actually saw on these coasts.) The rocks and shoals to the N. 
are prolific in fish, and are visited by great flotillas of boats. 

After rounding the light, the steamer enters Bonavista Bay, a great 
bight of the sea extending between Capes Bonavista and P'reels, a dis- 
tance of 37 M. About 4 M. S. W. of the cape, the steamer enters the har- 
bor of Bonavista, an ancient marine town with 2,600 inhabitants and 3 
churches. It is the capital of the district of the same name, and is also a 
port of entry, having a large and increasing commerce. The harbor is 
not secure, and during long N. W. gales the sea breaks heavily across the 
entrance. The Episcopal church is a fine building in EngHsh Gothic 
architecture, but the houses of the town are generally mean and small. 
Considerable farming is done on the comparatively fertile lands in the 
vicinity, and it is claimed that the climate is much more genial and the 
air more clear than on the S. shores of the island. The town is 146 M. 
from St. John's, and is 30 M. by road from Trinity and 10 M. from Catalina. 
It is one of the most ancient settlements on the coast, and signalized itself 
in 1696 by beating off the French fleet which had captured St. John's and 
ravaged the S. coasts. 



BONA VISTA BAY. Route 55. 203 

Bonansta Bay. 

A road leads S. W. from Bonavista to Birchy Cove, 9 M. ; Amherst Cove, 12; 
King's Cove, 20 ; Keels Cove, 26 ; Tickle Cove, 33 ; Open Hole, 33 ; Plate Cove, 38 ; 
and Indian Arm, 43. 

Kuig''s Cove is a village of Labrador fishermen, with 550 inhabitants and 2 
churches. It is on a narrow harbor between the lofty cliffs of the coast range, 
through whose passes a road runs S. to Trinity in 13 M. 3 M. from King's Cove is 
Broad Cove village, under the shadow of the peak of Southern Head. Keels is 6 
M. from King's Cove, and does a considerable lumber business. Thence the road 
descends through Tickle Cove (2 M. from the picturesque Red Cliff Island) to the 
three villages on the S., each of which has 2-300 inhabitants. To the W. are the 
deep estuaries of Sweet Harbor, Clode Sound (20 M. long), and Newman Sound (11 
M. long), penetrating the hill-country and exhibiting a succession of views of ro- 
mantic scenery and total desolation. Boats may be taken from Open Hole to Bar- 
row Harbor, a fishing settlement 10 M. N. W., at the mouth of Newman Sound, and 
to Salvage, 16 M. distant, a village of 500 inhabitants. 6 M. N. W., beyond the Bay 
of Fair and False, is Bloody Bay, a deep and narrow inlet with picturesque forest 
scenery, extending for several miles among the hills. The name was given on ac- 
count of the frequent conflicts which here ensued between the Ked Indians and the 
fishermen. At the head of the bay is the Terra Nova River, descending from the 
Terra Nova Lake, which is 15 M. distant, and is 12 M. long. 

The N. shore of Bonavista Bay is visited most easily from the port of Greens- 
pond. The communication is exclusively by boats, which may be engaged at the 
village. Nearly all the islands in the vicinity and for 10 M. to the S. W. and S. are 
occupied by small communities of hardy fishermen, and the shores of the main- 
land are indented with deep and narrow bays and sounds. To the N. are Pool's 
Island, 3 M. ; Pincher's Island, 9 ; Cobbler's Island, 10 ; and Middle Bill Cove (near 
Cape Freels), 15. To the S. and W. are the Fair Island, 7 M. ; Deer Island, 11 ; 
Cottel's Island (three settlements), 15 ; the Gooseberry Isles, 12 ; and Hare Bay, 23. 
The last-named place is at the entrance of Fres/iivater Bay, which runs in for about 
15 M., with deep water and bold shores. The great northern mail-road is being 
built along the head of this bay ; a short distance from which (by the river) are the 
Gambo Fonds, large lakes in the desolate interior, 23 M. long, abounding in fish. 
One of the best salmon-fisheries on the island is at the head of Indian Bay, 12 M. 
W. of Greenspond. 



On leaving Bonavista, the steamer runs N. by W. across Bonavista Bay, 
passing the Gooseberry Isles on the port bow. After over 3 hours' run, 
the N. shore is approached, and the harbor of Greenspond is entered. 
This town contains over 1,000 inhabitants, and is situated on an island 
1 M. square, so rugged that soil for house-gardens had to be broiight from 
the mainland. A large business is done here in the fisheries and the seal- 
trade, and most of the inhabitants are connected with either the one or the 
other. The entrance to the harbor is difficult, and is marked by a fixed 
red light, visible for 12 M. 

The steamer now runs N. E. and N. for about 18 M. to Cape Freels, 
passing great numbers of islands, some of which are inhabited by fisher- 
men, while others are the resort of myriads of sea-birds, who are seen 
hovering over the rocks in great flocks. Soon after passing the arid high- 
lands of Cape Freels, the course is laid to the N. W. across the opening of 
Sir Charles Hamilton's Sound, a broad and deep arm of the sea which is 
studded with many islands. Leaving the Cape Eidge and Windmill Hill 
astern, the Penguin Islands are seen, 15^ M. from Cape Freels; and 6 M. 
farther N. W. the Wadham Isles are passed, where, on a lonely and surf- 



204 Route 55. FOGO. 

beaten rock, is the Offer Wadham lighthouse, a circular brick tower 100 
ft. high, exhibiting a fixed white light, which is visible for 12 M. To the 
N. E., and well out at sea, is Funk Island, near which are good sealing- 
grounds. 

Funk Island was visited by Cartier in 1534, who named it (and the adjacent rocks) 
Les Isles des Oyseaux. Here he saw a white bear '' as large as a cow,"' which had 
swum 14 leagues from Newfoundland. "He then coasted along all the northern 
part of that great island, and he says that you meet nowhere else better ports or a 
more wretched country ; on every side it is nothing but frightful rocks, sterile lands 
covered with a scanty moss; no trees, but only some bushes half dried up; that 
nevertheless he found men there well made, who wore their hair tied on the top of 
the head." The isles were again visited by Cartier in July, 1535, in the ship Grand 
Hermine. " If the soyle were as good as the harboroughes are, it were a great com- 
moditie ; but it is not to be called the new found land, but rather stones and cragges 

and a place fit for wilde beastes In short, I believe this was the land allotted 

to Caine." Such was the unfavorable description given by Jaques Cartier of the 
land between Cape Bonavista and the Strait of Belle Isle. 

It is supposed that either the Baccalieu or the Penguin Islands were the " Feather 
Islands,'" which the Annales Skalholtini and Lvgmann's state were discovered by 
the Northmen in the year 1285. The Saga of Eric the Red tells that Leif, son of the 
Earl of Norway, visited the Labrador and Newfoundland shores in 994. "Then 
sailed they to the land, and cast anchor, and put off boats, and went ashore, and 
saw there no grass. Great icebergs were over all up the country, but like a plain of 
flat stones was all from the sea to the mountains, and it appeared to them that this 
land had no good qualities." Leif named this country Helluland (from Hella, a flat 
stone), distinguishing Labrador as Helluland it Mikla. In 1288 King Eric sent the 
mariner Rolf to Iceland to call out men for a voyage to these shores ; and the name 
Nyj'a Land, or Nyj'a Fiindu Land, was then applied to the great island to the S., 
and was probably adopted by the Enghsh (in the Anglicized form of Newfoundland) 
during the commercial intercourse between England and Iceland in the 15th cen- 
tury. 

9^ M. N. W. by N., Cape Fogo is approached, and is a bold promontory 
214 ft. high, terminating Fogo Island on the S. E. The course continues 
to the N. W. off the rugged shores of the island, and at 6^ M. from Cape 
Fogo, Round Head is passed, and the steamer assumes a course more to 
the westward. 6-8 M. from Round Head she enters the harbor of Fogo, 
a port of entry and post-town 216 M, from St. John's. The population is 
740, with 2 churches ; and the town is of great local importance, being the 
depot of supplies for the fishing-stations of the N. shore. (See also Route 
58 for this and other ports in the Bay of Notre Dame.) 

"The western headlands of Fogo are exceedingly attractive, lofty, finely broken, 

of a red and purplish brown, tinted here and there with pale green As wo pass 

the bold prominences and deep, narrow bays or fiords, they are continually changing 
and surprising us with a new scenery. And now the great sea-wall, on our right, 
opens and discloses the harbor and village of Fogo, the chief place of the island, 
gleaming in the setting sun as if there were flames shining through the windows. 
Looking to the left, all the western region is one fine ^gean, a sea filled with a mul- 
titude of isles, of manifold forms and sizes, and of every height, from mountain pyra- 
mids and crested ridges dowu to rounded knolls and tables, rocky ruins split and 
shattered, giant slabs sliding edgewise into the deep, columns and grotesque masses 
rufiied with curling surf, — the Cyclades of the west. I climb the shrouds, and be- 
hold fields and lanes of water, an endless and beautiful network, a little Switzerland 
with her vales and gorges filled with the purple sea." (Noble.) • 

In passing out of Fogo Harbor, the bold bluff of Fogo Head (345 ft. high) 
is seen on the 1., back of which is Brimstone Head. The vessel steams 



TWILLINGATE. Route 55. 205 

in to the W., up the Bay of Notre Dame, soon passmg Fogo Head, and 
opening the Change Island Tickles on the S. Change Island is then seen 
on the 1., and the course is laid across to the lofty and arid hills of Bacca- 
lieu Island. At 22 M. from Fogo the steamer enters the hai'bor of Twil- 
lingate (the Anglicized form of TouUnguet, the ancient French name of 
the port). The town of Twillingate is the capital of the district of Twil- 
lingate and Fogo, the most northerly political and legal division of New- 
foundland, and has a population of 2,790, with 3 churches. It is situated 
on two islands, and the sections axe connected by a bridge. Farming is 
carried on to a considerable extent in the vicinity, but with varying suc- 
cess, owing to the short and uncertain summers. The houses in the town 
are (as usually in the coast settlements) very inferior in appearance, 
snugness and warmth being the chief objects sought after in their archi- 
tecture. 

The finest breed of Newfoundland dogs were formerly found about the Twillingate 
Isles, and were generally distinguished by their deep black color, with a white cross 
on the breast. They were smaller than the so-called Newfoundland dogs of America 
and Britain ; were almost amphibious ; and lived on fish, salted, fresh, or decayed. 
Like the great mahogany-colored dogs of Labrador, these animals were distinguished 
for rare intelligence and unbounded affection (especially for children) ; and were 
exempt from hydrophobia. A Newfoundland dog of pure blood is now worth from 
$75 to #100. 

The steamer passes out of Twillingate Harbor and runs by Gull Island. 
The course is to the S. W., off the rugged shores of the Black Islets, and 
the N. promontory of the great New World Island. 14 M. from Twillingate 
she reaches the post-town of Exploits Island, a place of 530 inhabitants, 
with a large fleet of fishing-boats. (See also Eoute 58.) 

From Exploits Island the Bay of Notre Dame is crossed, and the harbor 
of Tilt Cove is entered. This village has 770 inhabitants, and is prettily 
situated on the border of a picturesque lake. The vicinity is famous for 
its copper-mines, which were discovered in 1857 and opened in 1865. Be- 
tween 1865 and 1870, 45,000 tons of ore, valued at $1,180,810, were 
extracted and shipped away. It is found in pockets or blanches 3-4 ft. 
thick, scattered through the heai't of the hills, and is secured by level tun- 
nels several thousand feet long, connected with three perpendicular main 
shafts, 216 ft. deep. There is also a valuable nickel-mine here, with a lode 
10 inches thick, worked by costly machinery, and producing ore worth 
$ 332 a ton. A superior quality of marble is found in the vicinity, but is 
too far from a market to make it worth while to quarry. The male inhab- 
itants of Tilt Cove are all miners. 

The next stopping-place is at Nipper's Harbor, a small fishing-village 
10 M. S. W. of Tilt Cove. The harbor is the best on the N. shore of the 
Bay of Notre Dame, and lies between the Nipper's Isles and the mainland. 
On alternate trips the mail-steamer calls also at Little Bay Island, 6 - 8 M. 
S. of Nipper's harbor. 



206 Route 56. CONCEPTION BAY. 

Tilt Cove was the terminus of the Northern Coast Postal Route until the estalK 
lishment of the mail-service on the Labrador coast, and it is not probable that the 
steamers will go N. of that point if the Labrador line is discontinued. It is but a 
short distance from Tilt Cove to the Frencli Sliore (see Route 61). 

In running from Tilt Cove to tlie Labrador, tlie steamer first passes out 
around Cape St. Jolin, and tlien tal^es a course almost due N., and far out 
from the land. Belle Isle, Quirpon, and the other points which may be 
distantly visible from the ship, are described in Route 61, adfinem. 

At Battle Harbor (see Route 62) the new route of the Northern Coastal 
steamer ends, and the freight, mails, and passengers bound for other ports 
are transferred to another vessel. 

The Labrador Coast, see Routes 62 and 63. 

56. St John's to Conception Bay. 

Mail-stages leave St. John's every morning for Portugal Cove, distant 9^ M. At 
this point the ti'aveller meets the steamer Lizzie, whose route was as follows, during 
the navigable season of 1874 : Tuesday, leaves Harbor Grace for Carbonear, Portu- 
gal Cove, and Bay Roberts ; Wednesday, leaves Bay Roberts for Brigus, Portugal 
Cove, Carbonear, and Harbor Grace ; Thursday, leaves Harbor Grace for Carbonear, 
Portugal Cove, and Brigus; Friday, leaves Brigus for Portugal Cove and Harbor 
Grace; Saturday, leaves Harbor Grace for Portugal Cove, Brigus, Carbonear, and 
Harbor Grace. 

Fares. — Portugal Cove to Brigus, 18 M., fare $1.40 ; to Carbonear, 20 M. ; to 
Bay Roberts, 20 M. ; to Harbor Grace, 20 M., fare, $1.50. 

There is also a road extending ai-ound Conception Bay. It is 20 M. from St. 
John's to Topsail, by way of Portugal Cove, passing Beachy, Broad, and Horse 
Coves. The more direct route leads directly across the N. part of Avalon from St. 
John's to Topsail. The chief villages and the distances on this road are as follows : 
St. John's to Topsail, 12 M. ; Killigrews, 18 ; Holyrood, 28 ; Chapel's Cove, 33 ; 
Harbor Main, 34^ ; Salmon Cove, 37 ; Colliers, 40 ; Brigus, 46 ; Port de Grave, 51 ; 
Spaniard's Bay, 56 ; Harbor Grace, 63 ; Carbonear, 67^ ; Salmon Cove, 72 ; Spout 
Cove, 76i; "Western Bay, 82; Northern Bay, 87; Island Cove, 93J ; Caplin Cove, 
97 ; Bay^Verd, 105. 

The stage-road, after leaving St. John's, traverses a singular farming 
country for several miles, and then enters a rugged region of hills. Portu- 
gal Cove is soon reached, and is picturesquely situated on the ledges near 
the foot of a range of highlands. It contains over 700 inhabitants, with 
2 churches, and has a few small farms adjacent (see page 195). 

Caspar Cortereal explored this coast in the year 1500, and named Conception 
Bay. He carried home such a favorable account that a Portuguese colony was es- 
tablished at the Cove, and 50 ships were sent out to the fisheries. In 1578, 400 sail 
of vessels were seen in the bay at one time, prosecuting the fisheries under all flags. 
The colony was broken up by the English fleet under Sir Francis Drake, who also 
drove the French and Portuguese fishermen from the coast. 

Belle Isle lies off shore 3 M. from the Cove, whence it may be visited by ferry- 
boats (also from Topsail). This interesting island is 9 M. long and 3 M. wide, and 
is traversed by a line of bold hills. It is famous for the richness of its deep black 
soil, and produces wheat, oats, potatoes, and hay, with the best of butter. The 
lower Silurian geological formation is here finely displayed in long parallel strata, 
amid which iron ore is found. The cliffs which front on the shore are very bold, 
and sometimes overhang the water or else are cut into strange and fantastic shapes 
by the action of the sea. Two or three brilliant little waterfalls are seen leaping 
from the upper levels. Belle Isle has 600 inhabitants, located in two villageSj Lance 
Cove, at the W. end, and the Beach, on the S. 



HAEBOR GRACE. Route 56. 207 

The steamer runs out to the S. W. between Belle Isle and the bold 
heights about Portugal Cove and Broad Cove, and passes up Conception 
Bay for 18 M., with the lofty Blue Hills on the S. It then enters the nai- 
row harbor of Brigus {Sullivan's Hotel), a port of entry and the capital 
of the district of Brigus. It has 2,000 inhabitants, with Wesley an, Eoman, 
and Anglican churches, and a convent of the Order of Mercy. The town 
is built on the shores of a small lake between two rugged hills, and pre- 
sents a picturesque appearance. It has over 800 boats engaged in the 
cod-fishery, and about 30 larger vessels in trading and fishing. There are 
a few farms in the vicinity, producing fair crops in return for great 
labor. The best of these are on the bright meadows near Clark's Beach, 
4 M. from the town; and several prosperous villages are found in the 
vicinity. Near the town is the singular double peak called the Twins, 
and a short distance S. W. is the sharp and conical Thumb Peah (598 ft. 
high). 

The steamer passes out from the rock-bound harbor and runs N. by the 
bold hill of Brigus Lookout (400 ft. high). Beyond Burnt Head, Bay de 
Grave is seen opening on the 1., with several hamlets, aggregating 2,600 in- 
habitants. Cupids and Bareneed are the chief of these villages, the latter 
being on the narrow neck of land betAveen Bay de Grave and Bay Roberts, 
2^ M. from Blow-me-down Head. Green Point is now rounded, and the 
course is laid S. W. up Bay Roberts, passing Coldeast Point on the port 
bow and stopping at the village of Bay Roberts {Moore's Hotel). This 
place consists of one long street, with 2 churches and several wharves, 
and has 1,000 inhabitants, most of whom spend the summer on the Lab- 
rador coast. 

Passing out from Bay Roberts, Mad Point is soon left abeam, and Sx>an- 
iai'd's Bay is seen on the 1., entering the land for 83 M., and dotted with 
fishing-establishments. The bay is surrounded by a line of high hills, 
on whose promontories are two or three chapels. The hamlet and church 
of BryanVs Cove ai*e next seen, in a narrow glen at the base of the hills, 
and the steamer passes on around the dangerous and surf-beaten Harbor- 
Grace Islands (off Feather Point), on one of which is a revolving white- 
and-red flash light, 151 ft. above the sea, and visible for 18 M. 

Harbor Grace (two inferior inns) is the second city of Newfoundland, 
and is the capital of the district of Harbor Grace. It has 6,770 inhab- 
itants, with several churches, a weekly newspaper, and fire and police 
departments. The town is built on level land, near the shelter of the 
Point of Beach, with its wharves well protected by a long sand-strip. 
The bay is in the form of a wedge, decreasing from 1^ M. in width to J 
M., and is insecure except in the sheltered place before the city. The 
trade' of this port is very large, and about 200 ships enter the harbor 
yearly. There is a stone court-house and a strong prison, and the Con- 
vent of the Presentation is on the Carbonear road. The Roman Catholic 



208 Route 57. CARBOXEAE. 

cathedral is the finest bnilding in the citj-, and its high and s^nnmetrical 
dome is a landmark for vessels entering the port. The interior of the 
cathedral is profusely ornamented, having been recently enlarged and 
newly adorned. Most of the houses in the city are mean and unprepos- 
sessing, being rudely constructed of -svood, and but little improved by 
painting. 

A rugged road runs X. 'VT. 15 M. across the peninsula to Heart's Content 
(see Route 57). A road to the X. reaches (in 1^ M. ) the farming Tillage of Mosquito 
CoL-e, snugly embosomed in a pretty glen near the cultivated meadows. About the 
year 1610 a colony was planted here by the agents of that English company in which 
■were Sir Francis Bacon, the Earl of Southampton, and other knights and nobles. 
King James I. granted to this company all the coast between Capes Bonavista and 
St. Mary, but their enterprise brought no pecuniary rettims. 

Carbonear is 1^ M. by road from Mosquito Cove (3 M. from Harbor 
Grace), and is reached by the steamer after passing Old Sow Point and 
rounding Carbonear Island. This town has 2,000 inhabitants, with Z 
churches, and "Wesleyan and Catholic schools. Several wharves are built 
out to furnish winter-quarters for the vessels and to accommodate the 
large fish-trade of the place. It is-21 M. by boat to Portugal Cove, across 
Conception Bay. This town was settled by the French early in the 17th 
century, under the name of Cai-boniere, but was soon occupied by the 
British. In 1696 it was one of the two Newfoundland towns that re- 
mained in the hands of the Enghsh, all the rest having been captured by 
Iberville's French fleet. Other marauding French squadrons wei'e beaten 
ofl' by the men of Carbonear in 1705-6, though the adjacent coast was 
devastated ; and in 1762 Carbonear Island was fortified and garrisoned by 
the citizens. 

The mail-road runs X. from Carbonear to Bay Terd, passing the villages of Cro- 
ker"s Core, 1 M. ; Freshwater, 2 ; Salmon Cove, 5 : Perry's Cove, 8 : Broad Cove, 
15: Western Bay, 17 : Xorthern Bay, 20 : Job's Cove, 25: Island Cove, 27; Low 
Point. So : Bay Terd, 3S. There is no harbor along this shore, the " coves "" being 
mere open bights, swept by sea-winds and affording insecure anchorage. The in- 
habitants are engaged in the fisheries, and have made some attempts at farming, in 
defiance of the early and biting frosts of this high latitude. Salmon Cove is near 
the black and frowning cliffs of Salmon Cove Head, and is famous for its great num- 
bers of salmon. Xear Ochre Pit Cove are beds of a reddish clay which is used for 
paint, and it is claimed that the ancient Bceothic tribes obtained their name of 
" Eed Indians "" from their custom of staining themselves with this clay. 

Ha J A'erd, see page 201. 

57. Trinity Bay. 

This district may be visited by taking the Xorthern Coastal steamer (see Route 55) 
to Bay Terd, Old Perlican, or Trinity ; or by passing from St. John's to Harbor 
Grace by Route 56, and thence by the" road to Heart's Content (,15 M.). The latter 
Tillage is about SO M. from St. John's by the road around Conception Bay. 

Heart's Content is situated on a fine harbor about half-way up Trinity 
Bay, and has 850 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the Labrador 
fisheries or in shipbuilding. The scenery in the vicinity is very striking, 
partaking cf the boldness and startling contrast which seems peculiar to 
this sea-drt Province. Just back of the viUase is a small lake, over 



TRIXITY BAY. Route 57. 209 

which rises the dark mass of Mizzen Hill, 601 ft. high. Heart's Content 
derives its chief importance and a -world-wide fame, from the fact that 
here is the W. terminus of the old Atlantic telegraph-cable. The office of 
the company is near the Episcopal Church, and is the only good building 
in the town. 

" Throb on, strong pulse of thunder ! beat 
From answering beach to beach. ; 
Fuse nations in thy kindlv heat. 
And melt the chains of each ! 

" V^i\(\ terror of the sky above. 
Glide tamed and dumb below ! 
Bear gently. Ocean's carrier-dove, 
Thy errands to and fro. 

" Weave on, swift shuttle of the Lord, 
Beneath the deep so far, 
The bridal robe of earth's accord, 
The funeral shroud of war ! 

" For lo : the fall of Ocean's wall 
Space mocked and time outrun ; 
And round the world the thought of all 
Is as the thousht of one." 
JoHX G. Whittier 8 CableHymn. 

The road running N. from Heart's Content leads to Xe'n^ Perlican, 3 M. ; Sillee 
Cove, 6 M. ; Hants Harbor, 12 ; Seal Cove, 19 ; Lance Cove, 24 ; Old Perlican, 28; 
and Grate's Cove, 3i. 

New Perlican is on the safe harbor of the same name, and has about 
420 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the cod-fisherj'- and in ship- 
building. A packet-boat runs from this point across the Bay to Trinity. 
Near the village is a large table-rock on which several score of names have 
been inscribed, some of them over two centuries old. 

Old Perlican is about tlie size of Heart's Content, and is scattered along 
the embayed shores inside of Perlican Island. It is overlooked by a 
crescent-shaped range of dark and baiTen hiUs. The Northern Coastal 
steamer calls at this port once a month during the season of navigation. 



" O lonely Bay of Trinity, 
O dreary shores, give ear ! 
Lean down into tlie white-lipped sea. 
The voice of God to hear f 

" From world to world His couriers flv. 
Thought-winged and shod with fire 
The angel of His stormy sky 
Rides down the sunken wire. 

" What saith the herald of the Lord ? 
* The world s long strife is done : 
Close wedded l)y that mystic cord, 
Its continents are one. 

*' ' And one in heart, as one in blood, 
Shall all her peoples be : 
The hands of human brotherhood 
Are clasped beneath the sea.' 



The southern road from Heart's Content leads to Heart's Desire, 6 M. ; Heart's 
DeUght, 9 ; Shoal Bay, 14 ; Witless Bay, 19 ; Green Harbor, 23; Hope All, 28 ; New 
Harbor, .32 ; and Dildo Cove, 35. The villages on this road are all small, and are 
mostly inhabited by the toilers of the sea. The country about Green Harbor and 
Hope All is milder and more pastoral than are the chff-bound regions on either side. 
From New Harbor a roud runs E by Spaniard's Bay (Conception Bay) to St. John's, 
in (j8 M. To the S. and W. lie the fishing-hamlets on the narrow isthmus of Avalon, 
which separates Placentia Bay from Trinity Bay by a strip of land 7 M. long, joining 
the peninsula of Avalon to the main island. The deep estuary called Bull Armmns 
up amid the mountains to within 2 M. of the Come-by-chance River of Placentia 
Bay, and here it is proposed to make a canal joining the two bays. 

Heart's JEase is 15 M. from Heart's Content (by boat), and is at the S. entrance 
of Random Sound. It is a fishing-village with 200 inhabitants and a church. To 
the S. is the grand cliff-scenery around St. Jones Harbor, and the long and river- 
like Deer Harbor, filled with islands, at whose head is Centre Hill, an isolated cone 
over 1,000 ft. high. From the summit of Centre Hill or of Crown Hili may be seen 
nearly the whole extent of the Placentia and Trinity Bays, with their capes and 
islands, villages and harbors. Just above Heart's Ease is Jiandom Island, covering 
a large area, and separated from the main by the deep and narrow watercourses 
called Random Sound and Smith's Sound. There is much fine scenpry in the sounds 
and their deep arms, and salmon-fishing is here carried on to a cfin^iderable extent. 
'Lhere are immense quantities of slate oa the shores, ^omo of which has been quar- 

N 



210 Route 58. EIVER OF EXPLOITS. 

ried (at "Wilton Grove). The two sounds are about 30 M. long, forming three sides 
of a square around Random Island, and have a width of from % M. to 2 M. " The 
sail up Smith's Sound was very beautiful. It is a fine river-like arm of the sea, 1-2 
M. wide, with lofty, and in many places precipitous, rocky banks, covered with wood. 
.... The character of the scenery of Random Sound is wild and beautiful, and con- 
veying, from its stillness and silence, the feehng of utter solitude and seclusion." 

Trinity is the most convenient point from which to visit the N. shore of 
the Bay (see page 201). The southern road runs to Troirty, 7 M. ; New 
Bonaventure, 12 M. ; and Old Bonaventnre, 18 M. Beyond these settle- 
ments is the N. entrance to Eandom Sound. 

58. The Bay of Notre Dame. 

Passengers are landed from the Northern Coastal steamer at Togo, Twillingate, 
Little Bay Island, Nipper's Harbor, or Tilt Cove, — all ports on this bay (see 
pages 204, 205). 

Fogo is situated on Fogo Island, which lies between Sir Charles Ham- 
ilton's Sound and the Bay of Notre Dame. It is 13 M. long from E. to W., 
and 8 M. wide, and its shores are bold and rugged. There are 10 fishing- 
villages on the island, with nearly 2,000 inhabitants (exclusive of Fogo), 
and roads lead across the hills from cove to cove. 

It is 9 M. by road from Togo to Cape Fogo; 7 M. to Shoal Bay; 5 to Joe Batt's 
Arm (400 inhabitants) ; 7 to Little Seldom -come-by ; and 9 to Seldom-come-by, a 
considerable village on a fine safe harbor, which is often filled with fleets of schoon- 
ers and brigs. If ice on the coast or contrary winds prevent the fishermen from 
reaching Labrador in the early summer, hundreds of sail bear away for this harbor, 
and wait here until the northern voyage is practicable. There is no other secure 
anchorage for over 50 M. down the coast. Tilton Harbor is on the E. coast of the 
island, and is a Catholic village of about 400 inhabitants. The principal settlements 
reached by boat from Fogo are Apsey Cove, 14 M. : Indian Islands, 14; Blackhead 
Cove, 14 ; Rocky Bay, 25 ; Barr'd Islands, 4 ; and Change Islands, 8. 20 M. S. W. 
is Gander Bay, the outlet of the great Gander-Bay Ponds, which bathe the slopes of 
the Blue Hills and the Heart Ridge, a chain of mountains 30 M. long. 

From Exploits Island (see page 205) boats pass S. 12 M. through a great 
archipelago to the mouth of the River of Exploits. This noble river de- 
scends from Eed-Indian Pond, about 90 M. to the S. W., and has a strong 
current with frequent rapids. The Grand Falls are 145 ft. high, where 
the stream breaks through the Chute-Brook Hills. An Indian trail leads 
from near the mouth of the river S. W. across the vast barrens of the in- 
terior, to the Bay of Despair, on the S. coast of Newfoundland, The Elver 
of Exploits flows for the greater part of its course through level lowlands, 
covered with evergreen forests. It may be ascended in steamers for 12 
M., to the first rapid, and from thence to the Red-Indian Pond by boats 
(making frequent portages). 

The river was first ascended by Lieut. Buchan, R. N., in 1810, under orders to find 
and conciliate the Red Indians, who had fled to the interior after being nearly ex- 
terminated by the whites. He met a party of them, and left hostages in their hands 
■while he carried some of their number to the coast. But his guests decamped, and 
he returned only to find that the hostages had been cruelly murdered, and the tribe 
had fled to the remote interior. In 1823 three squaws were captured, taken to St. 
John, loaded with presents, and released ; since which time no Red Indians have 
been seen, and it is not known whether the tribe is extinct, or has fled to Labrador, 



RED-INDIAN POND. Route 58. 211 

or is secluded in some more remote part of the interior. They were very numerous 
at the time of the advent "of the Europeans, and received the new-comers with con- 
fidence ; but thereafter for two centuries they were hunted down for the sake of the 
rich furs in their possession, and gradually retired to the distant inland lakes. 

In 1827 the Boeothic Society of St. John-s sent out envoys to find the Red Indians 
and open friendly intercourse with them. But they were unable to get sight of a 
single Indian during long weeks of rambling through the interior, and it is con- 
cluded that the race is extinct. On the shoi-es of the broad and beautiful Red-Indian 
Pond Mr. Cormack found several long-deserted villages of wigwams, with canoes, 
and curious aboriginal cemeteries. This was evidently the favorite seat of the tribe, 
and from this point their deer-fences were seen for over 30 M. (see also page 218). 

Little Bay Island (250 inhabitants), 15 M. from Tilt Cove, is the most 
favorable point from which to visit Hall's Bay. 8 M. S. W. are the settle- 
ments at the mouth of Hall's Bay, of which Ward's Harbor is the chief, 
having 200 inhabitants and a factory for canning salmon. There are valu- 
able salmon-fisheries near the head of the bay. From Hall's Bay to the N. 
and W., and towards White Bay, are the favorite summer feeding-grounds 
of the immense herds of deer which range, almost unmolested, over the in- 
terior of the island. The hunting-grounds are usually entered from this 
point, and sportsmen should secure two or three well-certified Micmac 
guides. 

A veteran British sportsman has written of this region : " I know of no country 
so near England which offers the same amount of inducement to the explorer, natu- 
ralist, or sportsman." It is to be hoped, however, that no future visitors will imi- 
tate the atrocious conduct of a party of London sportsmen, who recently entered 
t'lcse hunting-grounds and massacred nearly 2,000 deer during the short season, 
leaving the forests filled with decaying game. Public opinion will sustain the Mic- 
mac Indians, who are dependent on the deer for their living, and who have declared 
tiiat they will prevent a repetition of such carnage, or punish its perpetrators in a 
summary manner. 

The Indians and the half-breed hunters frequently cross the island from Hall's 
Bay by ascending Indian Brook in boats for about 25 M., and then making a port- 
age to the chain of ponds emptying into Grand Pond, and descending by Deer Pond 
and the Humber River (skirting the Long Range) to the Bay of Islands. The transit 
is both arduous and perilous. 20 M. inland are the mountains called the Three 
Towers, from whose summit may be seen the Grand Pond, the Bay of Exploits, and 
the Strait of Belle Isle. 

The deer migrate to the S. W. in the autumn, and pass the winter near St. George's 
B ly and Cape Ray The Red Indians constructed many leagues of fence, from the 
Bay of Notre Dame to Red-Indian Pond, by which they intercepted the herds during 
their passage to the S., and laid in supplies of provisions for the winter. 

Ked-Indian Pond is about 30 M. S. W. of IlaU's Bay. It is 40 ?I. long by 
5-6 M. wide, and contains many islands. To the S. lie the great interior lakes, i i 
an unexplored and trackless region. The chief of these are Croaker's Lake (10 M. 
distant), filled with islets ; Jameson's Lake, 20 M. long, between Serpentine Mt. and 
Mt. Misery ; Lake Bathurst, 17 by 5 M. ; and George IV. Lake, 18 by 6 M. 15 31. 
"W. of Red-Indian Pond is Grand Pond, which is 60 M. long. (See page 218.) 

From Nipper^s Harbor the sportsman may pass up Green Bay, to the S. W., and 
enter the hunting-grounds (having first taken care to secure trusty guides). On the 
N. side of the bay is a copper-mine that was opened in 1869, and has yielded well. 

Tilt Cove is 23 M. from Hall's Bay, 30 M. from New Bay, and 24 M. from Nim- 
rod. 7 M. distant is Burying Place, a small fishing-village, near which have been 
found numerous birch-bark coffins and other memorials of the Red Indians. A road 
runs N. E from Tilt Cove, passing in 3 M. Round Harbor, which is prolific in cop- 
per ; and in 4 M Slion Cove, famous for trout, and the station of a government boat 
which here watches the French fisheries. A road runs N. 7 M. from Shoe Cove to 
La Scie, on the French Shore (see Route 61). 



'2V2 JRi.n{teol\ riACEXTIA BAY. 

59, Placentia Bay 

Is included between Capo St. Mary and Cape Chapean Rouj;:?, and is 4S 

>L wide. Placentia is the capital of the eastern shore, and is a port of 

entry ;uid post-town, SO M. from St. John's by road. It is built along a 

level strtuid, overshadowed by round detached hills, and maintains a large 

fleet of lishiug-boats. There are remarkable clitls on Point Verde and 

Dixon Ishmd, near the town: and the views from Signal Hill and Castle 

Hill extend far out over the bay. There is much ivmantie scenery along 

the narrow channels of the X. E. and S. E. Arms,, which extend Irom the 

harbor in among the mountains. 

lu tho y\>ar lt3A"^ Tlawntia Bj»y -was cnteKni by t\ro Pwnch frigates, •which sailed «p 
ioto the harbor and landixl a strong tont^ of soldiers, with heavy artillery and other 
lauuitions. Here they erectevl a strong: fort, ocenpying a ixvint "so near the channel 
that the Bdrv^u La lloutau ^who was detached for duty here) said that " shijv< going 
in graxe i:^o to sjvak"» u{.h^u the angle ot the IvAstiou." The French held this" jn^st 
until ITlo, when it was surrenderevl. accoi\liug to the terms of the ti-eaty of Vtivcht. 
The port became fiunous as the ivsort of the Fr\,>ueh privtiteers which wei-e destroy- 
ing the English fisheries, and Commotion? Warreu was sent out (.iu li^) with thre« 
ClHrvin frigates and two smaller ves^^ls to destivy the town. AVarrvn ran in close 
to riaoeutia and opemxi firt", hut was warmly receivcvl by the l^atteries at the en- 
trance and by Fort St. Louis, At^er a heavy cannonade of six hours* duration, the 
English tieet was forced to draw otf. In lt^> Iberville gathered 14 w^r-vessels at 
Placentia, and having wcelvevl 4iX^ u.eu of Quebec, sailtxl to the E. and overran all 
the Atlantic coast of Newtoundland, ivtnrniug with 40-50 priie-ships and COO 
parisouers. In lOi'T the gi-eat French tleet, which (under Iberville) destroyevl all 
the Kritish posts on Hudson's Rny. gathei-evl heiv. So much did the British dread 
the batteries of Placentia and the wjirlike enthusiasm of M- de Oostabelle, its com- 
mander, that Admiral Walker, auchoivd at Sydney, with a splendid fleet carrying 
4.000 land-soldiers and VW camion, refused to obt^y his orviers to reduce this little 
F^ncU fortress, and sjuleii back to Erit;\iu iu disgrace. When France sturvudored 
Newfoundland, iu 17"lo, the soKlioi-s and citirens of PL'iceutia migratevl to C»i>e Bre- 
ton; and iu 1744 a Fivnch na\-;il expevlitiou under M. de Bivtz fiiikxl to recapture 
it from the British. This town alterwarvis Ivcame one of the chief ports of the 
Province ; but has of late years lost m.uch of its relative imjKirtance. A roiid runs 
hence to St. John's" in SOM. ; also through the settlements on the S. to Distress 
Cove in 2t5 M. ; also S. W. SS ii. to Branch, on St. Mary's Bay. 

Littk Placentia is on a narrow harbor 5 ^f. N. of Placentia, and has SSS 
inhabitants. Near this point is a bold peak of the western range in 
Avalou, from which 67 ponds are visible. The islands in the bay are 
visited tVom this point. Kam's Islands (133 inhabitants) are 10 M. dis- 
tant; Eedlshmd (227 inhabitants) is 12 M. W.; and about IS M. distant is 
^dorasheen Island, which is 21 M. long, and has on its W. coast tlie Kagged 
Islands^ 365 in number. The great lead-mines at La Manche are 12 M. X. 
of Little Placentia, on the Isthmus of A\-alon, 7 M. fix>m Trinity Bay. At 
the head of the bay, S3 M. from Little Placentia, is the village of North 
Harbor, near the great Powder-Hoi-n Hills, and 7 M. beyond is Black 
Elver, famous for its wild-fowl and other game. 

Harior Bii_fet is 16 M. from Little Tlacentia, en the lofty and indented Long 
Island, and has Soo inhabitants. Near tho S. W. part of Placentia Bay is the town 
and port of Bivriii, a station of the Westeru Coastal steamers (set? page 214). 



ST. MARY'S BAY. Route GO. 213 

60. The Western Outports of Newfoundland.— St. John's 
to Cape Eay. 

On alternate Thursdays or Fridays after the arrival of the mails from Europe, the 
Western Coastal steamer leaves St. John's for the outports on the S. shore of New- 
foundland. 

Fares. — St, John's to Ferryland, $2; Renewse, §2; Trepassey,.S3 50 ; Burin, 
S 5 ; St. Pierre, % 6 50 ; Harbor Briton, % 7.50 ; Bur^'eo, § 9 ; La Poile, -S 9.50 : Rose 
Blanche, % 10 ; Channel (Port au Basque), $ 11 ; Sydney, 8 14. The fares for steer- 
age passengers are about half the above prices. MeaLs are included in the price of 
the tickets. The trip out and back takes 10 to 12 days. 

St. John's to Cape Kace, see Eoute 54. 

Passing through the rocky portals of the harbor of St. John's, the 
steamer directs her course to the S. along the iron-bound Strait Shore. 
After visiting Ferryland and Renewse (see page 198), the Eed Hills are 
seen in the W. ; and beyond the lofty bare summit of Cape Ballard, the 
dreaded cliffs of Cape Eace (page 199) are rounded well off shore. Off 
Freshwater Point the course is changed to N. W., and Trepassey Bay is 
entered. The shores are lofty and bare, and open to the sweep of the 
sea. 8^- M. from Freshwater Point is Powles Head, on whose W. side the 
harbor of Trepassey is sheltered. The town contains 514 inhabitants, most 
of whom are engaged in the fisheries, and fronts on a secure harbor which 
is never closed by ice. Eoads lead hence to Salmonier (31 M. ) and Renewse. 

In 1G28 Lord Baltimore's ships of Avalon, the Benediction a^nd the y/cio?-^/, entered 
Trepassey Bay under full sail, bent on attacking the French settlement. The Bene- 
diction first greeted the fleet with several cannon-shot, after which she sent a terrific 
broad-side among the vessels. The Basque sailors fled to the shore, and the Victory, 
lowering her boats, took possession of all the vessels in the harbor and bore them 
away as prizes. The town of Trepassey was destroyed by a British naval attack in 1702. 

The steamer now runs S. W. to and around Cape Pine, on which is a 
tall circular tower which upholds a fixed light 314 ft. above the sea, visible 
at a distance of 24 M. 1 M. W. N. W. is Cape Freels, a little beyond 
which is St. ShoVs Bay. 

This narrow shore between Cape Pine and St. Shot's is said to be the most danger- 
ous and destructive district on the North American coast, and has been the scene of 
hundreds of shipwrecks. The conflicting and variable currents in these waters set 
toward the shore with great force, and draw vessels inward upon the ragged ledges. 
In former years disasters were frequent here, but at present mariners are warned 
off by the Admiralty charts and the lights and whistles. St. Shot's is as dreaded a 
name on the N. coast as Capellatteras is in the southern sea. In 1816 the transport 
Harpooner was wrecked on Cape Pine, and 200 people were lost. 

St. Mary's Bay is bounded by Cape Freels and Lance Point, and extends for 28 
M. into the Peninsula of Avalon. On the E. shore is St. Mary\s, a court-house town 
and port of entry, situated on a deep land-locked harbor, and largely engaged in 
fishing. To the S. is the mountainous Cape English, near which a narrow sandy 
beach separates the bay from Holyrood Pond, a remarkable body of fresh water over 
12 M. long. It is 65 M. by road from St. Mary's to St. John's ; and at 16 M. dis- 
tance the village of Salmonier is reached. This is a fishing and farming town near 
the outlet of the broad Salmonier River, famous for its great salmon. To the N. W., 
at the head of the bay, is some striking scenery, near Colinet Bay, where empties 
the Hodge-Water River, descending from the Quemo-Gospen Ponds, in the interior 
of Avalon. There are several small hamlets in this vicinity ; and Colinet is accessible 
by land from St. John's in 56 M. The \Y. shore of St. Mary's Bay is mountainous 
and rugged, and has no settlements of any consequence. 



2U jRouteOO. FOKTUXE BAY. 

Beyond the bold Cape St. !Man' the steamer runs to the N. "\Y. across the 
■wide entrance to Placentia Bay (see page 212). At about 20 M. from Cape 
St. Mary the sharply defined headh^nd of Cape Chapeau Rouge becomes 
visible ; and the harbor of Burin is entered at about 42 ^I. from Cape St. 
Mary. This harbor is the finest in Newfoundland, and is sheltered by 
islands -whose clift-bound shores are nearly 200 ft. high. On DoddingHead 
is a lighthouse 430 ft. above the sea, bearing a revolving light ■which is 
visible for 27 iNI. Still fiirther up, and almost entirely land-locked, is the 
Burin Inlet, The town of Burin has 1,S50 inhabitants, and is an important 
trading-station, supplying a great pai-t of Placentia Bay. The adjacent 
scenex'y is of the boldest and most rugged character, the lofty islands vying 
■with the inland mountains. 

On leaving Burin the course is laid to the S. "\V., passing the lofty prom- 
ontories of Corbin Head, ililler Head, and Bed Head. Beyond the tall 
sugar-loaf on Sculpin Point the deep harbors of Little and Great St. LaAv- 
rence are seen opening to the r. ; and the sea-resisting rock of Cape Chapeau 
Houfje is next passed. This great landmark resembles in shape the crowa 
of a hat, and is 748 ft. high, ■with sheer precipices over 300 ft. high. From 
this point the course is neai-ly straight for 33 ^I., to St. Pierre, running well 
off, but always in sight of a bold and elevated shore. 

St. Pierre, see page 1S5. 

On leaving St. Pierre the course is to the N., passing, in 5 M., the lew 

shores of Green Island, and then running for a long distance between the 

Miquelon Islands and May and Dantzic Points (on the mainland), which 

are about 12 M. apart. When about half-way across Fortune Bay, Brunet 

Island (5 M. long) is passed, and on its E. point is seen a lighthouse 408 ft, 

above the sea, showing a flashing light for 25 M. at sea. 6 M. beyond this 

point is Sagona Island, with its village of fishermen; and 5 M. farther X. 

the steamer enters Harbor Briton. Here is an Anglican village of about 

350 inhabitants, with an extensive local trade along the shores of Fortune 

Bay. The harbor is very secure and spacious, and runs far into the 

land. This to^wn -was settled in 1616 by Welshmen, and -was then named 

Cambnol. 

Fortune Bay 

is included bet^veen Point Mar and Pass Island, and is So M. ■vvide and 66 M. long. 
rortiiiie is a town of over SCO iuhabitauts, situated near the entrance of the bay, 
and on the Lamaliue road. Its energies are chiefly devoted to the fisheries and "to 
trading with St. Pierre. 3 M. E. N. E. are the highlands of Cape Grand Bank, fi-om 
which the shore trends N. E. by the hamlets of Garnish and Frenchman's Cove to 
Point Enragee. The E. and X. shores are broken by deep estuaries, in which are 
small fishing-settlements ; and in the X. W. corner are the North and East Bays, 
famous for herring-fisheries, which attract large fleets of American vessels. On the 
W. shore is the pi-osperous village of Belleoreni, engaged in the cod and herring 
fisheries, and distant 15 M. froni Harbor Britou. Koads fead from this point to the 
villages of Barrow, Blue Pinion, Corbin, English Harbor West, Coombs" Cove, and 
St. jliques. The other settlements on tlie W. shore are mere fishing-stations, closely 
hemmed in between the moiuitains and the sea, and are visited by boats from Harbor 
Britnn. 



BUKGEO. Route GO. 215 

Hermitage Bay is an extensive bight of the sea to the N. of Pass Island. Its 
principal town is Hermitage Cove, an Anglican settlement 9 M. from Harbor Briton. 
N. of the bay is Long Island, which is 25 M. around, and shelters the Bay of De- 
spair, famous for its prolific salmon-fisheries. From the head of this bay Indian 
trails lead inland to Long Pond, Round Pond, and a great cluster of unvisited lakes 
situated in a land of forests and mountains. From the farther end of these inland 
waters diverge the great trails to the River of Exploits and Hall's Bay. 

After running out to the S. W. between Sagona Island and Connaigre 
Head, the course is laid along the comparatively straight coast called the 
Western Shore, extending from Fortune Bay to Cape Hay. Crossing the 
wide estuary of Hermitage Bay, the bold highlands of Cape La Hune are 
approached, 12 M. N. of the Penguin Islands. About 25 M. W. of Cape 
La Hune the steamer passes the Ramea Islands, of which the isle called 
Columbe is remarkable for its height and boldness. There is a fishing- 
community located here ; and the August herrings are held as very 
choice. 

The old marine records report of the Ramea Isles : " In which isles are so great 
abundance of the huge and mightie sea-oxen with great teeth in the moneths of 
April, May, and June, that there haue been fifteene hundreth killed there by one 
small barke in the yeere 1591." 

In 1597 the English ship Hopewell entered the harbor of Ramea and tried to 
plunder the French vessels there of their stores and powder, but was forced by a 
shore-battery to leave incontinently. 

About 9 M. W. N. W. of Ramea Columbe, the steamer enters the har- 
bor of Burgeo, a port of entry and traduig-station of 650 inhabitants, sit- 
uated on one of the Burgeo Isles, which here form several small, snug 
harbors. This town is the most important on the Western Shore, and 
is a favorite resort for vessels seeking supplies. 3 M. distant is Upper 
Burgeo, built on the grassy sand-banks of a small islet; and 7 M. N. is 
the salmon-fishery at Grandy's Brook, on the line of the N. Y., N. F. and 
London Telegraph. 

Beyond the Burgeo Isles the course is laid along the Western Shore, and 
at about 25 M. the massive heights at the head of Grand Bruit Bay are 
seen. 5 M. farther on, after passing Ireland Island, the steamer turns into 
La Poile Bay, a narrow arm of the sea which cleaves the hills for 10 M. 
The vessel ascends 3 M. to La Poile (Little Bay), a small and decadent 
fishing-village on the W. shore. 

The distance from La Poile to Channel, the last port of call, is 30 M., 
and the coast is studded with small hamlets. Garia Bay is 5 - 6 M. W. 
of La Poile, and has two or three villages, situated amid picturesque 
scenery and surrounded by forests. Eose Blanche is midway between 
La Poile and Channel, and is a port of entry with nearly 500 inhabitants, 
situated on a small and snug harbor among the mountains. It has a con- 
siderable trade with the adjacent fishing-settlements. 8 M. beyond Rose 
Blanche are the Burnt Islands, and 3 M. farther on are the Dead Islands. 
At 8-10 M. inland are seen the dai'k and desolate crests of the Long- 
Range Mountains, sheltering the CoJroy Valley. 



216 Ecuteei. POET AU BASQUE. 



The Dead Islands (French, Les Isles avx Morts) are so named on account of 
the many fatal wrecks which hare occurred on their dark rocks. The name was 
given al'ter the losc> of an emigrant-ship, when the islands were so ftinged with 
human corpses that it took a giujg of men five days to bury them. George Harvey 
formerly lived on one of the islands, and saved hundreds of lives by boldly putting 
out to the wrecked ships. About 1S30 the Dispatch struck on one of the isles. She 
was full of immigrants, and her boats could not live in the heavy gale which was 
rapidly breaking her up. But Harvey pushed out in his row-boat, attended only 
by his' daughter (17 years old) and a boy 12 years old. He landed every one of the 
passengers "and crew\lt3o in number) safely, and fed them for three weeks, inso- 
much Ihat his family had nothing but fish to eat ail winter after. In ISoS the 
Glasgow ship Rank-ni' svruQk a rock off the isles, and went to pieces, the crew cling- 
ing to the stern-rail. In spite of the heavy sea, Harvey rescued them all (25 in 
number), by making four trips in his pvmt.' '" The whole coast between La Pci.e 
and Cape Ray seems" to have been at one time or other strewed Avith wrecks. Every 
house is surrounded with old rigging, spars, masts, sails, ships" bells, rudders, 
wheels, and other matters. The housed too contain telescopes, compasses, and por- 
tions of ships" furniture. •• (PSOF. JUEXS.) 

Clianiiel (or Port au Basque) is 3-4 M. W. of the Dead Isles, and 30 
M. from La Poiie. It is a port of entry and a transfer-station of the X. Y., 
X. F. and London Telegraph Company, and has nearly 600 inhabitants, 
with an Anglican chm-ch and several mercantile establishments. The 
fisheries are of much importance, and large quantities of halibut are 
caught in the vicinity. A few miles to the AV. is the great Table Jit., 
over Cape Pay, beyond which the French Shore turns to the N. A 
schooner leaves Port au Basque every fortnight, on the arrival of the 
steamer from St. John's, and carries the mails X. to St. George's Bay, the 
Bay of Islands, and Bonne Bay (see Koute 61). 

The steamer, on every alternate trip, runs S. W. from Channel to Syd- 
ney, Cape Breton. The course is across the open sea, and no land is seen, 
after the mountains about Cape Ray sink below the horizon, until the 
shores of Cape Breton are approached. 

Sydney, see page 150. 

6L The French Shore of Newfoundland. — Cape Eay to 
Cape St. John- 
It is not likely that any tourists, except, perhaps, a few adventurous yachtsmen, 
will vi.sit this district. It is destitute of hotels and roads, and has only one short 
and infrequent mail-packet route. The only settlements are a few widely scattered 
fishing-viUages, inhabited by a rude and hardy class of mariners ; and no form of 
local government has ever been established on any part of the shore. But the Editor 
is reluctant to pass over such a vast extent of the coast of the Maritime Provinces 
"without some brief notice, especiaUy since this district is in many of its features so 
tmique. The Editor was unable, owing to the lateness of the season, to visit the 
French Shore in person, but has been aided in the preparation of the following 
notes, both by gentlemen who have traversed the coast and the inland lakes, and 
by various statistics of the Province. It is therefore believed that the ensuing 
itinerary is correct in all its main features. The distances have been verified by 
comparison with the British Admiralty charts. 

The French Shore may be visited by the ti-ading-schooners which run from port 
to port throughout its vrhole extent during the summer season. The most interest- 
ing parts of it may also be seen by taking the mail-packet which leaves Port au 
Basque (Channel) fortnightlv, and runs N.'to Bonne Bay, touching ah. along the 
coast. 



1 



CAPE RAY. Route 61. 217 

The French Shore extends from Cape St. John (N. of Notre Dame Bay) 
around the N. and AV. coasts of the island to Cape Ray, including the richest val- 
leys and fairest soil of Newfoundland. It is nearly exempt from fogs, borders on 
the most prolific fishing-grounds, and is called the " Garden of Newfoundland." 
By the treaties of 1713, 1763, and 1783, the French received the right to catch and 
cure fish, and to erect huts and stages along this entire coast, — a concession of 
which they have availed themselves to the fullest extent. There are several British 
colonies along the shore, but they live without law or magistrates, since the home 
government believes that such appointments would be against the spirit of the 
treaties with France (which practically neutralized the coast). The only authority 
is that which is given by courtesy to Ihe resident clergymen of the settlements. 

It is 9 M. from Channel to Cape Bay, where the French Shore begins. The dis- 
tances from this point are given as between harbor and harbor, aud do not represent 
the straight course from one outport to another at a great distance. 

Cape Kay to Codroy,13M. ; Cape Anguille, 18 (Crabb's Brook, 45; Middle Branch , 
60 ; Robinson's Point, 55 ; Flat Bay, 57 ; Sandy Point, 65 ; Indian Head, 75) ; Cape 
St. George, 54 ; Port an Port (Long Point), 84 ; Bay of Islands, 108 : Cape Gregory, 
125; Bonne Bay, 140 ; Green Cove, 147 ; Cow Harbor, 1-58 ; Portland Bill, 176; Bay 
of Ingornachoix (Point Rich), 206 ; Portau Choix, 208 ; Point Ferolle, 220 : Flower 
Cove, 245 ; Savage Cove, 249 ; Sandy Bay, 250; Green Island. 255 ; Cape Norman, 
285 ; Pistolet Island, 292 ; Noddy Harbor, 306 ; Quirpon (Cape Bauld), 310 : Griguet 
Bay, 321; St. Lunaire, 326; Braha Bay, 33) ; St. Anthony, 336; Goose Harbor 
(Hare Bay), 340 ; Harbor deVeau, 343 ; St. Julien, 3-53 ; Croque,3.58; Conche, 373 ; 
Canada Bay, 387; Great Harbor Deep, 410 ; La Fleur de Lis, 432 ; LaScie, 455; Cape 
St. John, 460. 

* Cape Ray is the S. W. point of Newfoundland, and is strikingly pic- 
turesque in its outlines. 3 M. from the shore rises a great table-moun- 
tain, with sides 1,700 ft. high and an extensive plateau on the summit. 
Nearer the sea is the Sugar Loaf, a sj^mmetrical conical peak 600 ft. high, 
N. of which is the Tolt Peak, 1,280 ft. high. These heights may be seen 
for 50 M. at sea, and the flashing light on the cape is visible at night for 20 
M. From this point St. Paul's Island bears S. W. 42 ]\I., and Cape North 
is W. by S. 57 M. (see page 160). 

Soon after passing out to the W. of Cape Ear, Cape Anguille is seen on 
the N., — a bold promontory nearly 1,200 ft. high. Between these cape.s 
is the valley of the Great Codroy J2«rer, with a farming population of 
several hundred souls ; and along its course is the mountain-wall called 
the Long Range, stretching obliquely across the island to the shores of 
White Bay. 

St. George's Bay extends for about 50 M. inland, and its shores are 
said to be very rich and fertile, abounding also in coal. The scenery 
about the hamlet of Crabb's Brook "forms a most lovely and most Eng- 
lish picture." There are several small hamlets around the bay, of which 
Sandy Point is the chief, having 400 inhabitants and 2 churches. The 
people are rude and tmcultured, fond of roaming and adventure; but the 
moral condition of these communities ranks high in excellence, and great 
deference is paid to the clergy. The Micmac Indians are often seen in 
this vicinity, and are partially civilized, and devout members of the Catholic 
Church. The country to the E. is mountainous, merging into Avide grassy 
plains, on which the deer pass the winter season, roaming about the icy 
levels of the great interior lakes. 
10 



218 HoufeGl. GKAXD FOXD. 

Grand. Pond, is usually (and rarely) visited from St. George's Bay. After as- 

ceudiug tlic broad sound at the head of "the hay for about 10 M." a blind forest-path 
is enteivd, and the Indian guides lead the -way to the X. E. over a vast expanse of 
mo^s (Tery uncomfortable travelliug). The Hare-Head Hills are passed, and after 
about 15 M. of arduous marching, the traveller reaches the Grand Pond. '* And a 
beautiful sight it was. A narrow strip of blue water. Mideniug, as it proceeded, to 
about 2 M. . lay between bold reeky precipices covered with wood, and risiug ivhnost 
dnectly from "the water to a height of 5-600 ft., having bare tops a little farther 
back at a still greater elevation."' The Bay Indians keep canoes on tlie pond, and 
there are several wigwams on the shores. Game and fish are abundant in these 
woods and waters, since it is but once in years that the all-slayiug white man 
reaches the pond, and the prudent Indians kill only enough for their own actual 
needs. There is a lofly island 20 M. long, on each side of which are the narrow and 
ravine-hke channels of the pond, with an enonuous depth of water. The route to 
Hall's Bay (see j>age 211) leads up the river from the X. E. corner of the pond 
for about S5 M.. ptissiug through four lakes. From the uppermost pond the canoe 
is carried for i M. and put into the stream which empties into Hall's Bay. 3 M. W. 
of the inlet of this river into Grand Pond is the outlet of Junction Brook, a rapid 
stream which leads to the Humber Kiver and Deer Pond in S - 10 M., and is passable 
by canoes, with frequent portages. 

Near the X. end of Grand Pond, about the year 1770, occurred a terrible battle 
between the Micmacs and the Red Indians, wliich resulted in the extermination of 
the latter nation. The Micmacs were a Catholic tribe from Xova Scotia, who had 
moved over to > ewfoundland , and were displacing the aboriginal inhabitants, the 
Red Indians, or Bceothics. In the great battle on Grand Pond the utmost deter- 
mination and spirit were shown by the Bo;othics, invaded here in their innermost 
retreats. But they had only bows and ai-rows, while the Micmacs were armed with 
guns, and at the close of the battle not a man, woman, or child of the Red Indians 
of this section was left aUve. 

This region is densely covered with forests of large trees (chiefly fir and spruce), 
alternating with "• the barrens," — vast tracts which are covered with thick moss. 
Gov Sir John Harvey, after careful inspection, claims that the barrens are under- 
laid ^vith luxuriant soil, while for the cultivation of grasses, oats, barley, and pota- 
toes there is "no country out of England or Egypt superior to it." The intense 
and protracted cold of the winter seasons will preclude agriculture on a large scale. 

These inland solitudes jire adorned, during the short hot summer, with many 
brilliant flowers. Among these are great numbers of wild roses, violets, irises, 
pitcher-plants, heather, maiden-hair, and vividly colored Hchens ; while (says Sir 
1\. Bonnycastle) " in the tribe of hlies, Solomon in all his glory exceeded not the 
beauty of those produced in this unheeded wilderness." The only white man who 
ever yet crossed these lonely lands from shore to shore was a Scotchman named 
Cormack, who walked from Trinity Bay to St. George's Bay. in 1S22. He was ac- 
companied by a Micmac Indian, and "the trip took several weeks. The maps of 
Xewfoundland cover this vast unexplored region with conjectural mountains and 
hypothetical lakes. The British Adinir.\lty chart of Newfoundland (.Southern Por- 
tion^ omits most of these, but gives minute and valuable topographical outlines of 
the lakes and hills X. of the Bay of Despair, the Red-Indian Pcnd. and River of Ex- 
ploits, and the region of the Grand Pond and Deer Pond, with their approaches. 

Cape St. George thrusts a huge line of precipices into the se.a, and 5 M. 
beyond is Eed Island, surrounded by dark red cliff's. 25 M. farther to the 
X. E. is the enti-ance to Port au Port, a gi-eat double harbor of noble 
capacity. It is separated from St. George's Bay by an isthmus but 1 M. 
wide, at the W. base of the great Table Mt. 

The * Bay of Islands affords some of the finest scenery in the Province, 
and is sheltered by several small but lofty islands. The soil along the 
shores is said to be deep and productive, and adapted to raising grain and 
produce. Limestone, g^-psum, and fine marble are found here in large 
quantities. There are about 1,000 inhabitants about the bay, most of 



HUMBEE EIVER. Route 61. 219 

At the head of the bay is the mouth of the Humber River, the largest river 
in Newfoundland. In the last 18 M. of its course it is known as the Humber Sound, 
and is 1 -2 M. wide and 50 - 60 fathoms deep, with lofty and rugged hills on either 
sjJe. Great quantities of timber are found on these shores, and the trout and sal- 
mon fisheries are of considerable value. The river flows into the head of the sound 
in a narrow and swift current, and is ascended by boats to the Deer Pond. Occa- 
Bional cabins and clearings are seen along the shores, inhabited by bold and hardy 
pioneers. 3 M. above the head of the sound there is a rapid 1 M. long, up which 
boats are drawn by lines. Here " the scenery is highly striking and picturesque, — 
lofty cliffs of pure white limestone rising abruptly out of the woods to a height of 
3-400 ft , and being themselves clothed with thick wood round their sides and 
over their summits." Above the rapids the river traverses a valley 2 M. wide, filled 
with birch-groves and hemmed in by high hills. The stream is broad and shaUow 
for 6 M. above the rapids, where another series of rapids is met, above which are the 
broad waters of *Beer Pond, 2-3 M. wide and 15 M. long. Here is the undis- 
turbed home of deer and smaller game, loons, gulls, and kingfishers. A few Micmac 
Indians still visit these solitudes, and their wigwams are seen on the low savannas 
of the shore. (See also pages 211 and 218 ) 

" Beyond the forest-covered hills which surround it are lakes as beautiful, and 
larger than Lake George, the cold clear waters of which flow to the bay under the 
name of the river Humber. It has a valley like Wyoming, and more romantic 
scenery than the Susquehanna. The Bay of Islands is also a bay of streams and in- 
lets, an endless labyrinth of chCFs and woods and watei'S, where the summer voyager 
would delight to wander, and which is worth a volume sparkUng with pictures." 

Bonne Bay is 23 M. N. E. of the Bay of Islands, and is a favorite resort 
of American and Provincial fishermen. Great quantities of herring are 
caught in this vicinity. The mountains of the coast-range closely ap- 
proach the sea, forming a bold and striking prospect; and the rivers which 
empty into the bay may be followed to the vicinity of the Long Range. 

The coast to the N. N. W. for nearly 70 M. is straight, with the slight 
indentations of the Bay of St. Paul and Cow Bay. The Bay of Ingorna- 
choix has comparatively low and level shores, with two excellent har- 
bors. On its N. point (Point Rich) is a lighthouse containing a white 
flashing-light which is visible for 18 M.; and 2 M. E. is the fishing-station 
of Port au Choix, whence considerable quantities of codfish and herring 
are exported. The Bay of St. John is dotted with islands, and receives 
the River of Castors, flowing from an unknown point in the interior, and 
abounding in salmon. 

" What a region for romantic excursions ! Yonder are wooded mountains with a 
sleepy atmosphere, and attractive vales, and a fine river, the River Castor, flowing 
from a country almost unexplored ; and here are green isles spotting the sea, — the 
islands of St. John. Behind them is an expanse of water, alive with fish and fowl, 
the extremes of which are lost in the deep, untroubled wilderness. A month would 
not sufiice to find out and enjoy its manifold and picturesque beauties, through 
•which wind the deserted trails of the Red Indians, now extinct or banished." 

The Bay of St. John is separated by a narrow isthmus from St. Mar- 
garet's Bay (on the N.), on which are the stations of Nezo Ferolle and Old 
Ferolle. Beyond the Bays of St. Genevieve and St. Barbe, with their few 
score of inhabitants, is Flower Cove, containing a small hamlet and an 
Episcopal church. The great sealing-grounds of the N. shore are next 
traversed; and the adjacent coast loses its mountainous character, and 
sinks into wide plains covered with grass and wild gi'ain. 



220 Route 61. STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. 

The Strait of Belle Isle. 

The Strait of Belle Isle is now entered, and on the N. is the lofty and 
barren shore of Labrador (or, if it be night, the fixed light on Point 
Amour). As Green Island is passed, the Red Cliffs, on the Labrador shore, 
are seen at about 10 M. distance. The low limestone cliffs of the New- 
foundland shore are now followed to the N. E., and at SO M. beyond Green 
Island, Cape Norman is reached, Avith its revolving light upheld on the 
bleak dreariness of the spray-swept hill. This cape is the most northerly 
point of Newfoundland. 

The Sacred Islands are 12 M. S. E. by E. from Cape Xorman, and soon 
after passing them the hamlet of Quirpon is approached. This place is 
situated on Quirpon Island, 4 degrees X. of St. John's, and is devoted to 
the sealing business. It has an Episcopal church and cemetery. Multi- 
tudes of seals are caught off this point, in the great current which sets 
from the I'emote X. into the Strait of Belle Isle. Hundreds of icebergs 
may sometimes be seen hence, moving in stately procession up the strait. 
In front of Quirpon are the cold highlands of Jaques-Cartier Island. Cajie 
Bauld is the X. point of the island of Quirpon, and the most northerly 
point of the Province. 

14 M. N. of Cape Bauld, and midway to the Labrador shore, is Belle Isle, in the 
entrance of the strait. It is O^a M. long and 3 M. broad, and is utterlj- barren and 
unprofitable. On its S. point is a lonely lighthouse, 4TU ft. above the sea, sustain- 
ing a fixed white light which is visible for 28 M. During the dense and blinding 
snow-storms that often sweep over the strait, a cannon is fired at regular intervals ; 
and large deposits of provisions are kept here for the use of shipwrecked mariners, 
lietween Dec. 15 and April 1 there is no light exhibited, for the:-e northern seas are 
then deserted, save by a few daring seal-hunters. There is but one point where the 
island can be approached, which is \}^ M. from the lighthouse, and here the stores 
are landed. There is not a tree or even a bush on the island, and coal is imported 
from Quebec to warm the house of the keeper, — who, though visited but twice a 
year, is happy and contented. The path from the landing is cut through the moss- 
covered rock, and leads up a long and steep ascent. 

In the year 1527 "a Canon of St. Paul in London, which was a great mathemati- 
cian, and a man indued with wealth," sailed for the New World with two ships, 
which were fitted out by King Henry YIII. After they had gone to the westward 
for many days, and had passed " great Hands of Ice,"" they reached " the mayne 
land, all wildernesse and mountaines and woodes, and no naturall ground but all 
mosse, and no habitation nor no people in these parts."' They entered the Strait of 
Belle Isle, and then " there arose a great and a maruailous great storme, and much 
foul weather," during which the ships vrere separated. The captain of the Mary of 
Guilford wrote home concerning his c onsort-ship : " I trust in Almightie Jesu to heare 
good newes of her" ; but no tidings ever came, and she was probably lost in the 
strait, with all on board. 

The islands of Belle Isle and Quirpon were called the Isles of Demons in the 
remote past, and the ancient maps represent them as covered with " devils ram- 
pant, with wings, horns, and tails."" They were said to be fascinating but malicious, 
and Andre Thevet exorcised them from a band of stricken Indians by repeating a 
part of the Gospel of St. John. The mariners feared to land on these haunted 
shores, and '' when they passed this way, they heard in the air, on the tops and 
about the masts, a great clamor of men"s voices, confused and inarticulate, such as 
} ou may hear from the crowd at a fair or market-place ; whereupon they well knew 
that the Isle of Demons was not far off." The brave but superstitious Normans 
dared not land on the Labrador without the crucifix in hand, beUeving that those 
gloomy shores were guarded by great and terrible grifians. These quaint legends 



STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. Route 61. 221 

undoubtedly had a good foundation. In July, 1873, the coasts of the Strait of Belle 
Isle were ravaged by bands of immense wolves, who devoured several human beings 
and besieged the settlements for weeks. 

An ancient MS. of 1586 relates a curious legend of Belle Isle. Among the com- 
pany on the fleet which was conducted through the Straits to Quebec in 1542, were 
the Lady Marguerite, niece of the Viceroy of New France, and her lover. Their 
conduct was such as to have scandalized the fleet, and when they reached the Isle 
of Demons, Roberval, enraged at her shamelessne.ss, put her on shore, with her old 
nur.se. The lover leaped from the ship and joined tlie women, and the fleet sailed 
away. Then the demons and the hosts of hell began their assaults on the forsaken 
trio, tearing about their hut at night, menacing them on the shore, and assaulting 
them in the forest. But the penitent sinners were guarded by invisible bands of 
s.tints, and Icept from peril. After many months, wearied by these fiendish assaults, 
the lover died, and was soon followed by the nurse and the child. Long thereafter 
lived Marguerite alone, until finally a fishing-vessel ran in warily toward the smoke 
of her fire, and rescued her, after two years of life among demons. 

From Cape Bauld the coast runs S. by the French sealing-.stations of 
Griguet, St. Lunaire, Braha, and St. Anthony, to the deep indentation of 
Ilare Bay, which is 18 M. long and 6 M. wide. A short distance to the S. 
is the fine harbor of Croque, a favorite resort for tlie French fleets and a 
coaling-station for the steamers. The back country is dismal to the last 
degree. 

To the S. E. are the large islands of Groais (7 X ^ M. in area) and Belle Isle (9 X 6 
M.). Running now to the S. W. by Cape Rouge and Botitot, Conche Harbor is seen 
oil the starboard bow, and Canada Bay is opened on the W. This great bay is 
12 M. long, and is entered through an intricate passage called the Narrows, beyond 
which it widens into a safe and capacious basin. 'I'he shores are .solitary and de- 
serted, and far inland are seen the great hill-ranges called The Clouds. 7 M. to the 
S. W. is the entrance to Hooping Harbor, and 5 M. farther S. is Fourchette, 12 M. 
beyond which is Great Harbor Deep, a long and narrow estuary with such a depth 
f>f water that vessels cannot anchor in it. This is at the W. entrance of White 
Bay, and is 16 M. from Partridge Point, the E. entrance. 

White Bay is a fine sheet of water 45 M. long and 10-15 M. wide. It is very 
deep, and has no islands except such as are close in shore. The fisheries are car- 
ried on here to a considerable extent, and at Cat Cove, Jackson's Arm, Chouse 
Brook, Wiseman's Cove, Seal Cove, and Lobster Harbor are small settlements of 
resident fishermen. Chouse Brook is situated amid noble scenery near the head 
of the bay, 60 M. by boat from La Scie. On the highlands to the W. and S. of 
W'hite Bay are the haunts of the deer, which are usually entered from Hall's Bay or 
Green Bay. 

3 M. S. E. of Partridge Point is La Fleur de Lis harbor, so named from 
the simulation of the royal flower by a group of three hills near its head. 
Running thence to the E., the entrances of Little Bay and Ming's Bight 
open on the starboard side, and on the port bow are the St. Barbe, or Horse 
Islands. About 20 M. from La Fleur de Lis is La Scie, the last settle 
ment on the French Shore, with its three resident families. A road leads S. 
7 M. from this point to Shoe Cove, on the Bay of Notre Dame (see page 
211); and5M. E. of La Scie is * Cape St. John, the boundary of the 
French Shore on the Atlantic. 

" The Cape is in full view, a promontory of shaggy precipices, suggestive of all the 
fiends of Pandemonium, rather than the lovely Apostle whose name has been gib- 
beted on the black and dismal crags As wc bear down toward the Cape, we 

pass Gull Isle, a mere pile of naked rocks delicately wreathed with lace-like mists. 
Imagine the last hundred feet of Conway Peak, the very finest of the New-Hampshire 
mountain-tops, pricking above the waves, and you will see thii little outpost and 



222 HiVdcei. CArE ST. JOHN. 

bi'eakwater of Cape St. John."' (Xocle.) The Cape presents by far the grandest 
scenery on the E. coast of Newfouudhxud,aud is an unbroken wall of black rock, 
4-500" ft. high and 5 M. long, agtunst whose immediate base the deep sea sweeps. 



' ' Of the laxdes of Labrador axd Baccalaos, ltisg West and North-west from 
Englaxde, and beinge parte of the firme lande of the West Indies. 
" Many haue tranalyed to seaixh the coast of the lande of Laborador, as well to 
the iutente to knowe howo farre or whyther it reaehethe, as also whether there bee 
any passage by sea thronghe the same into the Sea of Sur and the Islaudes of 31aiuca, 
which areliudVr the Equiuoctiall line : thiukyuge that the wave thy thor sluiKle greatly 
bee shortened by this vyage. The Spanyardes, as to whose ryght the sayde islandes of 
spices perteyne, dyd fyrst seeke to tyude the same by this way. The Portugales 
also hauynge the trade of spites in theyr haudes, dyd tranayle to fynde the same: 
although hethorto ueyther anye snche passage is fouude or the ende of that lande. 
In the yeare a thousaude and tine hundredth, Gaspar Cortesreales made a vyage 
thythcr with two carauelles : but found not the streyght or passage he sought. .*. . . 
He gi-eatly maruayled to beholde the houge quantitie of snowe and ise. For the 
sea "is there fi-oseu excedyngly. Thinhabitauntes are men of good corpoi-ature, al- 
though tawny hke the Indiess, and laborious. They paynte theyr hodyes, and weare 
bi-aselettes aiid hoopes of syluer and copper. Theyr apparel is made of the skynnes 
of marternes and dyvers other beastes, whiche they weare with the heare iuwarde in 
wyuter, and outwarde in soommer. This appareU they gyrde to theyr bodyes with 
gyi-dels made of cotton or the synewes of fysshes and beastes. They cate fysshe 
more than any otlier thynge, and especially salmons, althoughe they have foules 
and frute. They make theyr houses of timber, whereof they haue great plentie : 
and in the steade of tyles, couer them with the skynnes of fysshes and beastes. It 
is said also that there are grifes in this land : and that the beares and many other 
beastes and foules are white. To this and the islaudes aboute the Siime, the Britous 
are accustomed to resortc : as men of nature agreeable vnto them, and born vndor 
the same altitude and tempei-atui-e. The Norways also sayUd thyther with the 
pylot cauled John Seoluo : and the Euglyshe men with Sebastian Cabot. 

"" The coaste of the lande of Baccalaos is a greate titicte, and the altitude thereof 
is xlviii degrees and a halfe. Sebastian Cabot was the fyrst that browght any kuowl- 
eage of this land. For being in Euglaude in the dayes of Kyng Henry the Seuenth, 
he furnyshed two shippes athis owiie charges or (,as sonic say) at the kyuges, whom 
be persuaded that a passagi^ might bee found to Cathay by the North Seas, and that 
spices myght bee browght front theuse soner by that way, then by the vyage the 
rortug-ales vse by the Sea of Sur. He went also to knowe what maner of landes 
those Indies were to iuhabite. He had withe hym 300 men, and directed his course 
by the tracte of islande nppon the Cape of LaboiTalor at Iviii degrees : affirmynge 
that in the mouethe of .Inly there was such could and heapes of ise that he durst 
passe no further : also that"the dayes were very longe, aud in mauer withowt nyght, 
and the nyghtes very cleare. Cerfeyne it is, that at the Ix degrees, the longest day 
is of xviiihoures. But consyderynge the coulde and the strauugeuess of the uu- 
knowne lande, he turned his" course from theuse to the West, foknvyuge the coast 
of the land of Baccalaos vnto the xxxviii degrees, from whense he returned to Eng- 
lande. To conclude, the Brytons aud Banes have sayled to the Baccalaos ; aud 
Jacques Cartier. a Frenchman, was there twyse with three gtileoiis. 

" Of these lauds .bicobus Uastaldus wrytetu thus: " The Newe land of Baccalaos 
is a coulde region, whose inhabytauntes are idolatours, and praye to the scone aud 
luoone and d\ vers idoles. They are whyte people, and very rustical. For they eate 
flesshe and fysshe and all other thynges niwe. Sumtyuics also they eate maus 
flesshe priuilye, so that theyr Caciqui have no knowleage thereof The appin-ell of 
both the men and women is made of beares skynnes, although they have sables and 
marternes, not greatly esteemed because they are lyttle. Some of them go naked in 

Boomer, and weare apparell only in wynter Northwarde from the region of 

Baccalaos is the laud of Laborador, all fiill of movmt;iynes and great woodes. iu whiche 
are manye beares and wylde boares. Thinhabitauntes are idolatoures aud warlike 
people, apparelled as are they of Baccalaos. In all this Jiewe lande is neyther citie 
or castell, but they lyve iu c'ompauies lyke hcardes of beastes.' "' 



LABRADOE 



Is the great peninsular portion of North America which lies to the N. and 
N. W. of Newfoundland, and is limited by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the 
ocean, and Hudson's Bay. It extends from about 50° N. latitude to 60^", 
and the climate is extremely rigorous, the mean temperature at Nain 
being 32" 6'. The land is covered with low mountains and barren plateaus, 
on which are vast plains of moss interspersed with rocks and bowlder?. 
There are no forests, and the inland region is dotted with lakes and 
swamps. There are reindeer, bears, foxes, wolves, and smaller game; 
but their number is small and decreasing. The rivers and lakes swarm 
with fish, and the whole coast is famous for its valuable fisheries of cod 
and salmon. At least 1,000 decked vessels are engaged in the Labra- 
dor fisheries, and other fleets are devoted to the pursuit of seals. The 
commercial establishments here are connected with the great firms of 
England and the Channel Islands. The Esquimaux population is steadily 
dwindling away, and probably consists of 4,000 souls. 

"The coast of Labrador is the edge of a vast solitude of rocky hills, split and 
blasted by the frosts, and beaten by the waves of the Atlantic, for unknown ages. 
Every form into which rocks can be washed and broken is visible along its almost 
interminable shores. A grand headland, yellow, brown, and black, in its horrid 
nakedness, is ever in sight, one to the north of you, one to the south. Here and there 
upon them are stripes and patches of pale green, — mosses, lean grasses, and dwarf 
shrubbery. Occasionally, miles of precipice front the sea, in which the fancy may 
roughly shape all the structures of human art, — castles, palaces, and temples. Im- 
agine an entire side of Broadway piled up solidly, one, two, three hundred feet in 
height, often more, and exposed to the charge of the great Atlantic rollers, rush- 
ing into tbe churches, halls, and spacious buildings, thundering through the door- 
ways, dashing in at the windows, sweeping up the lofty fronts, twisting the very 
cornices with silvery spray, falling back in bright green scrolls and cascades of sil- 
very foam ; and yet, all this imagined, can never reach the sentiment of these 
precipices. More frequent than headlands and perpendicular sea-fronts are the 
fea-slopes, often bald, tame, and wearisome to the eye, now and then the perfection 
of all that is picturesque and rough, —a precipice gone to pieces, its softer por- 
tions dissolved down to its roots, its flinty bones left standing, a savage scene that 

scares away all thoughts of order and design in nature This is the rosy time 

of Labrador (July). The blue interior hills, and the stony vales that wind up 
among them from the sea, have a summer-like and pleasant air. I find myself 
peopling these regions, and dotting their hills, valleys, and wild shores with human 
habitations. A second thought — and a mournful one it is — tells me that no men 
toil in the fields away there ; no women keep the house off there ; there no children 
play by the brooks or shout around the country school-house ; no bees come home 
to the hive ; no smoke curls from the farm-house chimney ; no orchard blooms ; 
no bleating sheep fleck the mountain-sides with whiteness, and no heifer lows in 
the twilight. There is nobody there ; there never was but a miserable and scat- 



ill!-ir FiOuteO-:. BATTLE HAEBOR. 

tered few, and there never will be. It is a great and terrible wilderness of a thou- 
sand miles, and lonesome to the very Avild animals and birds. Left to the still tIs- 
itation of the liaht froui the sun, moon, and stars, and the auroral fires, it is only 
fir to look upon^aud thou be given over to its primeviil solitariness. But for the 
living things of its waters, — the cod, the s^ilmon, and the seal, — which bring thou- 
sands of adventurous tishermen and tradei-s to its bleak shores, Labrador would be 
as desolate as Giveuland. 

" For a few days the woolly flocks of New England would thrive in Labrador. 
During these few days there are thousands of her tair daughters who would love to 
tend them. I pi-opliesy the time is coming when the invalid and tourist fi-om the 
States will be often found spending the brief but lovely summer here, notwithstiuid- 
iiig its ruggedness and desolation." (Rev. L. L. Noble) 

" Wild are the waves which lash the reefs along St. George's bank ; 
Cold on the coast of Labrador the fog lies white and dauk ; 
Through storm, and wave, and blinding mist, stout are the hearts which man 
The fishing-smacks of Marblehead, the sea-boats of Cape Ann. 

" The cold north light and wintry sun glare on their icy forms, 

Bent grimly o'er their stitiining lines, or wrestling with the storms ; 
Free as the winds they drive before, rough as the waves they roan>, 
They laugh to scorn the slaver's threat against their rocky home."- 

Joax G. Whittier. 

62. The Atlantic Coast of Labrador, to the Moravian Mis- 
sions and Greenland. 

The mail-steamer Hercules leaves Battle Harbor fortnightly during the sum- 
mer. 

Battle Harbor is a sheltered roadstead between the Battle Islands and 
Great Caribou Island, .^ ^I. long and quite narrow. It is a great resort for 
fishermen, whose vessels crowd the harbor and are moored to the bold 
rocky shores. Small houses and stages occupy every point along the 
sides of the roadstead, and the place is vei*y lively during the fishing sea- 
son. On the "\V. is Great Caribou Island, which is 9 !M. around, and the 
steep-shored S. E. Battle Island is the easternmost land of the Labrador 
coast. The water is of great depth in this vicinity, and is noted for its 
wonderful gi-ound-swell, which sometimes sweeps into St. Lewis Sound in. 
lines of immense waves during the calmest days of atitumn, dashing high 
over the islets and ledges. An Episcopal church and cemetery Avere con- 
secrated here by Bishop Field in 1S50, and the nephew of Wordsworth 
(the poet) Avas for some yeai-s its rector. The first Esquimaux convert 
was baptized in 1S57. 

Fox Harbor is 3-4 hours' sail from Battle Island, across St, Lewis 

Sound, and is an Esquimaux village v.-ith igloes, kayaks, and other curious 

things pertaining to this unique people There is a wharf, projecting into 

the narrow harbor (which resembles a mountain-lake); and the houses ai'e 

clustered about a humble little Episcopal church. 

" Caribou Tslaiid fronts to the N. on the bay 5 -6 M .1 should think, and is 
a nigged mountain-pi'.e of dark gray rook, rounded in its upper masses, and slashed 
along its shoi-es with abrupt chasms. It drops short off, at its eastern extremity, 
into a narrow gulf of deep water. This is Battle Harbor. The billowy pile of igneous 
rock, perhaps 250 ft. high, lying between this quiet water and the bi-CKid Atlantic, is 
Battle Island, and the site of the town At this moment (July) the rocky isle. 



SANDWICH BAY. Route 03. 225 

bombarded by the ocean, and flayed by the sword of the blast for months in the 
year, is a little paradise of beauty. There are fields of mossy carpet that sinks be- 
neath the foot, with beds of such delicate flowers as one seldom sees I have 

never seen such fairy loveliness as I find here upon this bleak islet, where nature 
seems to have been playing at Switzerland. Green and yellow mosses, ankle-deep 
and spotted with blood- red stains, carpet the crags and little vales and cradle-like 
hollows. Wonderful to behold I flowers pink and white, yellow, red, and blue, are 
countless as dew-drops, and breathe out upon the pure air their odor, so spirit-like. 
. . . , Little gorges and chasms, overhung with miniature precipices, wind gracefully 
from the summits down to meet the waves, and are filled, where the sun can warm 
them, with all bloom and sweetness, a kind of wild greenhouse." 

The course is laid from Battle Harbor N. across St. Lewis Sound, -which 
is 4 M. wide and 10 M. deep (to Fly Island, beyond which is the St. Lewis 
River, which contains myriads of salmon). Passing the dark and rugged 
lulls (500 ft. high) of Cape St. Lewis, the steamer soon reaches the small 
but secure haven of Spear Harbor, where a short stop is made. The next 
port is at St. Francis Harbor, which is on Granby Island, in the estuary 
of the deep and navigable Alexis River. An Episcopal church is located 
here. In this vicinity are several precipitous insulated rocks, rising from 
the deep sea. The harbor is i M. W. of Cape St. Francis, and is deep and 
well protected, being also a favorite resort for the fishing fleets. 

Cape St. Michael is next seen on the W., 11 M. above Cape St. Francis, 
with its mountainous promontory sheltering an island-studded bay. Be- 
yond the dark and rugged Square Island is the mail-port of Dead Island. 
Crossing now the mouth of St. Michael's Bay, and passing Cape Bluflf 
(which may be seen for 50 M. at sea), the steamer next stops between 
Venison Island and the gloomy cliffs beyond. Running next to the N., 
on the outside of a great archipelago, the highlands of Partridge Bay are 
slowly passed. 

The Seal Islands are 24 M. N. E. of Cape St. Michael, and 18 M. beyond 
is Spotted Island, distinguished by several white spots on its lofty dark 
cliffs. To the E. is the great Island of Ponds, near which is Batteau Har- 
bor, a mail-port at Avhich a call is made. The next station is at Indian - 
Tickle, which is a narrow roadstead between Indian Island and the high- 
lands of Mulgrave Land. Stopping next at S. E. Cove, the course is laid 
from thence to Indian Harbor, on the W. side of Huntington Island. This 
island is 7 M. long, and shelters the entrance to Sandwich Bay (the Esqui- 
maux NetsbuctoTce), which is 6-9 M. wide and 54 M. deep, with 13-40 
fathoms of water. There are many picturesque islands in this bay, and on 
the N. shore are the Mealy Mts., reaching an altitude of 1,482 ft. On the 
W. side are Eagle and West Rivers, filled with salmon; and East River 
runs into the bottom of the bay, coming from a large lake where immense 
numbers of salmon, trout, and pike may be found. 4 M. from the mouth 
of East River is the small settlement o^ Paradise. 

At the head of this great bay are The Narrows, with Mount Nat and its bold 
foothills on the S. " On either side hills towered to the height of a thousand feet., 
wooded with spruce from base to summit, and these twin escarpments abutted ranges 



22G lioutc 6^^ MORAVIAN MISSIONS. 

of bold blnt^ whose shadows scorned almost to meet midway in the narrow channel 
that separated them. Throuirh this grand gloomy port;il theiv was an uubrokeu 
iristii for miles, until the eluuuiel made an abrupt turn that hid the water from 
■view ; but the u;reat gorge eoutiuued on beyond till it was lost in blue shadow." 
On the N. shore of the Narrows is the Hudson's Bay Company's post of Kigolette, 
OiX'upying the site of an older Vreuch trading-station. At the head of the Narrows 
is Melville Lake, a givat inland soa, all along whose !?. shore aiv the weird and won- 
derful volcanic peaks of the lofty Mealy Jlountains. 120 M. S. AV. of Kigolette, by 
this route, is the II. 1>. Company's post of NorAvest, situated a little way up the 
N. W. Kivor, near great spruce forests. This is the chief trading-post of tlie Moun- 
fcxiucers, a tribe of the givat Cree nation of the West, aud a tall, graceful, and spir- 
ited people. In 18-10 they first opened communication with the whit<»s. It was this 
tribe, which, issuing fiom the interior highlands in resistless forays, nearly exter- 
minated the Esquimaux of the coast. SCO M. from i'ort Norwest is Fort ?>ai:copie, 
situated on the Heights of L;ind, far in the dark and solitary interior. In thatvicia- 
ity are the Grand Falls, which the vo!/iii:eurs claim aiv l.lXHl ft. high, but Factor 
M'lAVin says are4i,Xl ft. liigh, — and below them the broad river hashes down through 
a caiion otH) ft. diH^p, for over 30 M. otX> ^1. from Fort Nascopie are the shon.>s of 
Uugava liiw. (The Esqnimaux-Bav district is well described in au article by Charles 
Hallock, lliirper's Magtiziue, Vol. XXII.) 



The Moravians st«te that the Esquimaux are a proud and enterprising people, low 
in stature, witli coarse features, small hands and feet, and black wiry hair. The 
men ai-e expert in tishing, catching seals, and managing the light and graceful bo;it 
called the kayak-, which outrides the rudest surges of the sea ; while the women are 
skilful in making garments from skins. Agriculture is impossible, because the 
country is covered with snow aud ice for a great jvirt of the year. They call them- 
selves Intiiiits O'meu"), the term Esquimaux (^moaning "eaters of raw flesh'') 
being appHed to them by the hostile tribes to the ^\^ On the 500 M. of the Atlantic 
coast of Labrador thciv are about 1,000 of these people, most of whom have btvn 
couverteii by the Moravians. They live about the missions in winter, and assemble 
fixim the ivmotcst points to celebrate the mysteries of the Passion Week in the 
churches. They weiv heathens and demon-worshippers until 1770, when the Mora- 
vian Brethnm occupied the coast under permission of the British Crown. They were 
formerly much more numerous, but have been reduced by long wars with the 
Mountaineers of the interior and by the iiivages of the suiall-pox. The practice of 
polygtimy has ceased auioug the tribes, and their marriages are eelcbi'iited by the 
Moravian ritual. The missionaries do considerable tradiug with the Indians, and 
keep mag-azines of pi'ovisious at their villages, from which the natives are freely fed 
during seasons of famine. At each station are a chuivh, a store, a mission-house, 
and shops and warm huts for the converted and civilized Esquimaux, who ai-e fiist 
learning the mechanic arts. The Moravian mission-ship makes a yearly visit to the 
Labrador station, ivplenishing the supplies and carrying away cargoes of furs. 

HopedsU© is 300 M. N. W. of the Strait of Belle Isle, and is one of the 
chief Moravian missions on the Labrador cotist. It \ras founded in 17S2 by the en- 
voys of the church, and has grown to be a centre of civilizing influences on this 
divary coast. Its last statistics claim for it 35 houses, with J:G families and 2iS per- 
sons ; 49 bojits and 40 kayaks ; and a church cout;\ining 74 communicants and So 
baptized childi-en. The mean annual temperature here is 27° 82'. The chuiTh is a 
neat plain building, where the men and women occupy opposite sides, and German 
liymns are sung to the accompaniment of the violin. 

Nain is about 80 M. N. W. of llopedale, aud has about 300 inhabitants, of whom 
95 are communicants and 94 are baptized children. It was founded by three Mora- 
vians in 1771, and occupies a beautit\il position, facing the ocean from the bottom 
of a narixnv haven. It is iu 57° N. latitude (same latitude as the Hebrides), and the 
thermometer sometimes marks 75' iu summer, while spirits fi-ecze in the intense cold 
of winter. Okkak- is about 120 M. N. W. of Naiu, towards Hudson Strait, and is a 
very successful mission which dates from 177G. The station oiHtbron is still farther 
up the coast, and has- about 300 inhabitants. 

Far away to the N. E., across the broad openings of Davis Stmit, is 
Cape Desolation, in Greenland, near the settlements of JuUanshaab. 



CHATEAU BAY. Route 63. 227 

63. The Labrador Coast of the Strait of Belle Isle. 

At Battle Harbor the Northern Coastal steamer connects with the 
Labrador mail-boat, which proceeds S. W. across the month of St. Charles 
Channel, and touches at Cape Charles, or St. Charles Hcn-hor^ entering be- 
tween Fishflake and Blackbill Islands. This harbor is deep and secure 
(though small), and is a favorite resort for the fishermen. As the steamer 
passes the Cape, the round hill of St. Charles may be seen about 1 M. 
inland, and is noticeable as the loftiest highland in this district. Niger 
Sound and the Camp Islands (250-300 ft. high) are next passed, and a 
landing is made at Chimney Tickle. 1^ M. S, W. of the Camp Islands is 
Torrent Point, beyond which the vessel passes Table Head, a very pic- 
turesque headland, well isolated, and with a level top and precipitous 
sides. It is 200 ft. high, and is chiefly composed of symmetrical columns 
of basalt. To the S. are the barren rocks of the Peterel Isles and St. 
Peter's Isles, giving shelter to St. Peter's Bay. In the S. E. may be seen 
the dim lines of the distant coast of Belle Isle. On the N. is the bold 
promontory of Sandwich Head. The deep and narrow Chateau Bay now 
opens to the N. W., guarded by the cliffs of York Point (1.) and Chateau 
Point (on Castle Island, to the r.), and the steamer ascends its tranquil 
sheet. Within is the noble fiord of Temple Bay, 5 M. long, and lined by 
lofty highlands, approached through the Temple Pass. On the r. is the 
ridge of the High Beacon (959 ft.). Chateau is a small permanent village, 
with a church and a large area of fish-stages. In the autumn and winter 
its inhabitants retire into the back country, for the sake of the fuel which 
is afforded by the distant forests. The port and harbor are named for the 
remarkable rocks at the entrance. There are fine trouting-streams up 
Temple Baj^; and vast numbers of curlews visit the islands in August. 

" This castle is a most remarkable pile of basaltic rock, rising in vertical columns 
from an insulated bed of granite. Its height from the level of the ocean is upward 
of 200 ft. It is composed of regular five-sided prisms, and on all sides the ground is 
Ftrewn with single blocks and clusters that have become detached and fallen from 

their places [It] seemed like some grim fortress of the feudal ages, from whose 

embrasures big-mouthed cannon were ready to belch forth flame and smoke. On the 
very verge of the parapet across stood out in bold relief in the gleaming moonlight, 
like a sentinel upon his watch-tower." (IIallock, describing Castle Island.) 

Chateau was formerly considered the key of the northern fisheries, and its pos- 
session was hotly contested by the English and French. At the time of the de- 
population of Acadia a number of its people fled hither and established a strong 
fortress. This work still remains, and consists of a bastioned star-fort in masonry, 
with gun -platforms, magazines, and block-houses, surrounded by a deep fosse, be- 
yond which were earthworks and lines of stockades. It was abandoned in 1753, 
and is now overgrown with thickets. In 1763 a British garrison was located at 
Chateau, in order to protect the fisheries, but the place was captured in 1778 by the 
American privateer Minerva, and 3 vessels and £70,000 worth of property were 
carried away as prizes. In 1796 the post was again attacked by a French fleet. A 
long bombardment ensued between the frigates and the shore-batteries, and it was 
not until their ammunition was exhausted that the British troops retreated into the 
lark country, after having burnt the village. In 1535 the French exploring fleet 
uuder the command of Jaques Cartier assembled here. 



22S HoutcGS. STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. 

After emerging from Chateau Bay, the course is laid around York 
Point, and the Strait of Belle Isle is entered (with Belle Isle itself 18 
M. E.). The Labrador coast is now followed for about 25 M., with the 
stem front of its frowning clifls slightly indented by the insecure havens 
of Wreck, Barge, and Greenish Bays. Saddle Island is now seen, with 
its two rounded hills, and the steamer glides into Bed Bay, an excellent 
refuge in whose inner harbor vessels sometimes winter. Large forests are 
seen at the head of the water, and scattering lines of huts and stages show- 
evidences of the occupation of the hardy northern fishermen. Starting 
once more on the vovage to the S. W., at T M. from Red Bay are seen the 
Little St. Modeste Islands, sheltering Black Bay, beyond which Cape 
Diable is passed, and Diable Bay (i M. W. S. W. of Black Bay). 3 M. 
farther to the "W. the steamer enters Loup Bay, rounding high red cliflfs, 
and touches at the fishing-establishment and hamlet of Lance-au-Lottp 
Vwhich views the Xewfoundland coast from Point Ferolle to Cape Xo]> 
man). Field-ice is sometimes seen oS" this shore in the month of Jtme. 
Capt. Bayfield saw 200 icebergs in the strait in August. 

The course is now laid to the S. W. for 3-i M., to round Point Amour, 
which is at the narrowest part of the strait, and has a fixed light, 155 ft. 
high, and visible for 18 M. From the Red CUtis, on the E. of Loup Bay, 
it is but 11 M. S. S. E. to the coast of Xewfoundland. 

'• The Battery, a? sailors call it, is a wall of red sandstone, 2-3 M. in extent, with 
horizontal lines extending from one extreme to the other, and perpendicular fissures 
resembling embrasures and gateways. Swelling out with grand proportions toward 
the sea, ithas a most military and picturesque appearance. At one point of this 
huge citadel of soUtude there is the resemblance of a giant portal, with stupendous 
piers 2CK) ft. or more in elevation. They are much broken by the yearly assaults of 
the frost, and the eye darts up the ruddy ruins in surprise. If there was anything 
to defend, here is a Gibraltar at hand, with comparatively small labor, whose guns 
could nearly cross the strait. Beneath its precipitous cUfTs the debris slopes like 
a glacis to "the beach, with both smooth and broken surfaces, and all very hand- 
somely decorated with rank herbage The red sandstone shore is exceedingly 

picturesque. It has a right royal presence along the deep. Lofty semicircular 
promontories descend in regular terraces nearly down, then sweep out gracefully 
with an ample lap to the margin. No art could produce better effect. The long 
terraced galleries are touched with a tender green, and the well-hollowed vales, now 
an I thenoccurring, and ascending to the distant horizon between ranks of rounded 
hills, look green and pasture-like Among the very pretty and refreshing fea- 
tures of the coast are its brooks, seen occasionally falling over the rocks in white 
cascades. Harbors are passed now and then, with small fishing-fleets and dweU- 
ings." (Noble.) 

The steamer enters Forteau Bay, and runs across to the W. shore, where 
are the white houses of a prosperous fishing-establishment, with an Epis- 
copal church and rectory. About the village are seen large Esquimaux 
dogs, homely, powerful, and intelligent. This bay is the best in the strait, 
and is much frequented by the French fishermen, for whose convenience 
one of the Jersey companies has established a station here. On the same 
side of the harbor a fine cascade (100 ft. high) is seen pouring over the 
cliffs, and the fresh-water stream which empties at the head of the bay 
contains larsre numbers of salmon. 



BLANC SABLON. Route 64. 229 

7 M. beyond Forteau, Wood Island is passed, and the harbor of Blanc 
Sablon is entered. To the W. are Bradore Bay and Bonne Esperance Bay, 
with their trading-stations ; and a few miles to the X. W. are the Bradore 
Hills, several rounded summits, of which the chief is 1,264 ft. high. 

Blanc Sablon is on the border-line between the sections of Labrador 
which belong, the one to the Province of Quebec, the other to Newfound- 
land. It is named from the white sands which are brought down the 
river at the head of the bay. Several of the great fishing-companies of 
the Isle of Jersey have stations here, and the harbor is much visited in 
summer. Blanc Sablon is at the W. entrance to the Strait of Belle Isle, 
and it is but 21 M. from the Isle-a-Bois (at the mouth of the bay) to the 
Newfoundland shore. The village is suiTounded by a line of remarkable 
terraced hills. On Greenly Island, just outside of the harbor, 32 sail of 
fishing-vessels were lost on the night of July 2, 1856. 

Following the trend of the N. coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Blanc 
Sablon is distant from Esquimaux Bay 20 M., from Quebec nearly 800 M., 
and (in a straight line) 218 M. from Anticosti (see Ptoute 65). 

From Blanc Sablon the steamer retraces her course through the Strait 
of Belle Isle to Battle Harbor. 



64. The Labrador Coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence.— The 
Mingan Islands. 

The ports along this coast may be reached by the American fishing-schooners, 
from Gloucester, although there can be no certainty when or where they will touch. 
Boats may be hired at Blanc Sablon to convey passengers to the W. 

Quebec to the Moisic River. 

The steamer Margaretta Stevenson leaves Quebec for the Moisic River every week, 
and may be hired to call at intermediate ports. The passage occupies 30 - 40 hours) 
and the cabin-fare is ^ 20 (including meals). The round trip to Moisic and back 
takes nearly a week. 

The N. shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence is a region which is unique in its dreari- 
ness and desolation. The scenery is wild and gloomy , and the shore is faced with 
barren and storm-beaten hills. The cUmate is rigorous in the extreme. This dis- 
trict is divided into three parts, — the King's Posts, with 270 M. of coast, from Port 
Neuf to Cape Cormorant ; the Seigniory of Mingan, from Cape Cormorant to the 
River Agwanus (135 M.) ; and the Labrador, extending from the Agwanus to Blanc 
Sablon (156 M.). Along this 561 M. of coast there are (census of 1861) but 5,413 in- 
habitants, of whom 2,612 are French Canadians and 833 are Indians. 1,754 are fish- 
ermen, and 1,038 hunters. In the 560 M. there are but 380 houses, 673^ arpents of 
cultivated land, and 12 horses. There are 3,841 Catholics, 570 Protestants, and 2 
Jews. 

The wide Bradore Bay is near Blanc Sablon, to the W., and has been 
called "the most picturesque spot on the Labrador." In the back coun- 
try are seen the sharp peaks of the Bradore Hills, rising from the wilder- 
ness (1,264 ft. high). The bay was formerly celebrated for its numerous 
humpbacked whales. The village is on Point Jones, on the E. side of 
the bay. 



230 F.oute 64. 



ESQUIMAUX BAY. 



Bradore Bar is of great extent, and is studded with clusters of islets, which 
make broad divisions of the roadstead. It was! known in ancient times as Di Bate 
des Lettfs, and was granted by France to the Sienr Le Gardeur de Courtemanche 
(who, according to ti-adition. married a Princess of France, the daughter of Hemi 
IT.). That nobleman sent out agents and officers, named the new port Fheiijptaux, 
and built at its entrance a bulwark cal'.ed Fort Pontchartrain. From him it de- 
scended to Sieur Foucher. who added the title *• de Labrador " " to his name : and there 
still exists a semi-noble fiunily in France, bearing the name of Foucher de Labrador. 

On this bay was the town of Brest, which, it is claimed, was founded by men 
of Brittany, in the year 1-508. If this statement is correct, Brest was the fii-st Euro- 
pean settlement in ..America, antei;lating by over thirty years the foundation of St. 
Augustine, in Florida. In 15-35 Jaques Cartier met French vessels searching for this 
poi-t. About the year 1600 Brest was at the height of its prosperity, and had 1,000 
permanent inhabitants. 200 houses, a governor and an almoner, and strong fortifica- 
tions. After the subjugation of the Esquimaux by the Montaignais, it was no longer 
dangerous to establish small fishing-stations along the coast, and Brest began to 
decline rapidly. Kuins of its ancient works may still be found here. 

The Bay of Bonne-Esperance is one of the most capacious on this coast, 
and is sheltered from the sea by a double line of islets. The port is called 
Bonny by the American fishermen, -nho resort here in great numbers 
during the herring-season. The islands before the harbor were passed by 
Jaques Cartier, who said that they Avere *'so numerous that it is not pos- 
sible to count them." They were formerly (and are sometimes now) called 
Les Isles de la Demoiselle; and Thevet locates here the tragedy of Eober- 
val's niece Marguerite (see page 221). 

Esquimaux Bay isX. of Bonne-Esperance, and is S M. in circumference. 

2 M. above Esquimaux Island is a small trading-post, above which is the 

mouth of the river, abounding in salmon. There is a gi-eat archipelago 

between the bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. On one of these islands 

an ancient fort was discovered in the year 1840. It was built of stone and 

turf, and was suiTOunded by great piles of human bones. It is supposed that 

the last great battle between the Erench and ^Montaigiiais and the Esquimaux 

took place here, and that the latter were exterminated in their own fort. 

13 ^r. W. of Whale Island are 3Iistanoque Island and Shecatica Bay, beyond Lob- 
ster and Rocky Harbors. Port St. Augustine is 15 M. W. of Mistanoque, beyond 
Shag Island and the castellated highlands of Cumberland Harbor. A line of high 
islands extends hence 21 M. W. by S. to Great Meccatina Islatid, a granite rock 2x3 
M. in area, and 5<>3 ft. high. The scenery in this vicinity is remarkable for its gran- 
deur and singular features. 58 M. from Great Meccatina Island is Cape Whittle ; and 
in the intervening course the Watagheistic Sound and Wapitagun Harbor are passed. 
A fringe of islands extends for 6-8 M. off this coast, of which the outermost are 
barren rocks, and the large inner ones are covered with moss-grown hills. 



" Now, brothers, for the icebergs 

Of frozen Labrador, 
Floating spectral in the moonsMne 

Along the low black shore : 
"Where^ike snow the gannet's feathers 

On Bradors rocks a're shed, 
And the noisy murr are flying, 

Like black scuds, overheadl 

" Where in mist the rock is hiding, 

And the sharp reef lurks below. 
And the white squall lurks in summer, 

And the autiimn tempests blow : 
Where, through gray and rolling vapor, 

From evening unto morn, 
A thousand boats are haihng, 

Hom answering unto horn. 



" Hurrah : for the Red Island, 

With the white cross on its crown ! 
Hurrah '. for Meccatina, 

And its mountains bare and brown I 
Where the Caribou's tall antlers 

O'er the dwarf-wood freely toss. 
And the footstep of the Mickmack 

Has no sound upon the moss. 

" Hurrah ! — hurrah ! — the west-wind 
Comes freshening down the bay, 
The rising sails are filling, — 

Give way, my lads, give way '. 
Leave the'coward landsmen clinging 

To the dull earth, like a weed, — 
The stars of heaven shall guide iis. 
The breath of heaven sliull speed ! " 
JOHX G. Whittieks So7ig oj the Fishermen. 



THE MINGAN ISLANDS. Route 64. 231 

From the quantity of wreck found among these islands, no doubt many melan- 
choly shipwrecks haTe taken place, which have never been heard of; even if the 
unfortunate crews landed on the barren rocks, they would perish of cold and hunger. 

The "eggers" carry on their illegal business along these shores, where niilli'ons 
of sea-birds have their breeding-places. They land on the islands and break all the 
eggs, and when the birds lay fresh ones they gather'them up, and load their boats. 
There are about 20 vessels engaged in this contraband trade, carrying the eggs to 
Halifax, Quebec, and Boston. " These men combine together, and form a strong com- 
pany. They suffer no one to interfere with their business, driving away the fisher- 
men or any one else that attempts to collect eggs near where they happen to be. 
Might makes right with them, if our information be true. They have arms, and 
are said by the fishermen not to be scrupulous in the use of them. As soon as they 
have filled one vessel with eggs, they send her to marliet ; others follow in succes- 
sion, so that the market is always supplied, but never overstocked. One vessel of 25 
tons is said to have cleared £ 200 by this ' egging ' business in a favorable season." 
(^Nautical Magazine.) 

To the W. of Cape Whittle are the Wolf, Coacocho, Olomanosheebo, 
Wash-shecootai, and Musquarro Elvers, on the last three of which are 
posts of the Hudson's Bay Company. Next come the Kegashka Bay and 
River, the cliffs of Mont Joli, the cod banks off Natashquan Point, and 
several obscure rivers. 

The Mingan Islands are 29 in number, and lie between the moun- 
tainous shores of lower Labrador and the island of Anticosti. They 
abound in geological phenomena, ancient beaches, denuded rocks, etc., 
and are of very picturesque contours. About their shores of limestone 
are thick forests of spruce, birch, and poplar; seals and codfish abound 
in the adjacent waters; and wild fowl are very plentiful in the proper sea- 
son. Large Island is 11 M. in circumference; and Mingan, Quarry, 
Niapisca, Esquimaux, and Charles Islands are 2-3 M, in length. They 
front the Labrador coast for a distance of 45 M. 

There are about 600 inhabitants near the islands, most of whom are In- 
dians and French Acadians, for whose spiritual guidance the Oblate Fathers 
have established a mission. The chief village is at Mingan Harbor, on 
the mainland, back of Harbor Island; and here is a post of the Hudson's 
Bay Company. The harbor is commodious and easy of access, and has 
been visited by large frigates. The salmon and trout fisheries of the 
Seigniory of Mingan are said to be the best in the world. Long Point is 
due N. of the Ferroquets, 6 M. from Mingan Harbor, and is a modern fish- 
ing-village fronting on a broad beach. The fish caught aiad cured here 
are sent to Spain and Brazil, and form an object of lucrative traffic. The 
fishermen are hardy and industrious men, generally quiet, but turbulent 
and desperate during their long drinking-bouts. 

The Seigniory of the Mingan Islands and the adjacent mainland was granted to 
the Sieur Francois Bissot in 1661, and the feudal rights thus conveyed and still main- 
tained by the owners have greatly retarded the progress of this district. The walrua 
fisheries were formerly of great value here, and their memory is preserved by Walrus 
Island, on whose shores the great sea-cows used to land. " In 1852 there was not a 
single establishment on the coast, between the Bay of Mingan and the Seven Isles, 
and not a quintal of codfish was taken , except on the banks of Mingan and at the 
River St. John, which the American fishermen have frequented for many years. 
Now, there is not a rivtr, a cove, a cieek, which is not occupied, and every ) ear there 



MmieCi. THE MINGAN ISLANDS. 



S9-S5,CIOO qiiittibtls of cod, without ctwnttio^ oitlior fish." " Tb« once 
d^nlalie cossts of Mmsau h»T« acquired, by imtu^mtioii, a >%i>n>a$, ukutU, aud 
txttty OklholR popofaitioa, Hm itteu aum seakaUy stio^ aitd n»has<> «ttd aboT«> all 

Oa tfie W. edge of tbe Mingan Idanvls are the P^rrogwete. a duster of 
low nvks vrhexe sresit numbers of puffins burrow and rear their young. 
On these islets the steamships Ofi« and ^VortJk Brittm were wrecked (in 
iSoT and 1S61). 

A beach of white sand extends W. from Long Point to tiie jSf, Jckm 
Hir^r, a distance of l$-20 M. The river is marked bv the tall adjacent 
peak of Mount St. Ji^n vl,-H6 t\. high); and furnishes very good fishing 
vsee G. <X Scott's ** Fishing in American Waters "). 

Th« llirNdtw £ievr is S4 M. W. of the St. John, and at 1^ M. ftvm its moath it 
sabesasiand kap oY«r a cliff US ft. h^h, :&»tmu$ the UH>$t u»$mfic«at calaniiet 
oa the ^t shCHM. The coaist Indiaiis still i«p«»t the kfextd of the inTssioa of th^ 
cottttt!?- bv the Mkmacs (from Acadia)^ ^)0 years a^\ aud its hei«ae end. The hos- 
tile -mar-paitr eneamiiied at the fitUs, mteiiniias: to attack the 3ilonta%nus at the 
porta$ei$„ for vhkh poipose forces tnat^ stattoned aK^xv and below. But the locad 
tribes detected Uieir presmce, and cat off the ?VRuds at the caujoesSs then surprised 
ttie detachment beiov the tdte, and finally attackt>i the main body aK<ve. After 
tiie Utts^arii^ eaxnaise of a kc^ u^ht-battle, the Mtnuacs w«e couqu^'iwl. all sare 
their great wimd^lndr, who stood on the t«s^ of tike £»lls, sio^ug soug^ ixf de- 
fiukcer A Montaiguais clu^' rushed foraaxd to take him, when the b«dd Miouv»e 
s«laed his opponent and k«iped with him into the foamins waters. Th*^ wew both 
bocne o'cvr the predate, and the Mis haT« ever since bei»i known as the Siuiitottsaa 
v^Oonj^u«r"s) JPfcUs. 

The Koisie Biirer is about -40 M. "W. of the Manirou River, and empties 
into a broad bay which receives also the Trout Ei\-er. At this point are 
the Mcttsic Iron "Works, near which there are about 700 inhabitants, most erf" 
whom are «winected with the mines. This company has its chief office 
in Montreal, and runs a weekly steamer between Moisic and Quebec (see 
page 2S1). There is a hotel here, where visitors can get plain fare at $5 
a week (no Hquors on the premises). Large quantities of codfish and sal- 
mon are exported ftom Moisic. 

The Seven. Islands are a group of barren ''mountair»-peaks, starting 
suddeiily nom the ocean,'" and situated several leagues AV. of the month 
of the Moisic Kiver. They were visited by Ciirtier (l->So). who reported 
that he saw sea-hois^ here; and in ITSl they were included in the 
Dtmame dm Rm, The trading-post which was established here by the 
French, 140 years ago, subsequently reverted to the Hudson^s Bay Com- 
pany, and is visited by 3— tOO Xasquapee Indians. Since the departure 
01 the H. B. Company, the post itself has lost its importance, but all ves- 
sels trading on the X. shore are now obliged to get their clearances here. 
The Montaignais Indians had a brxsad trail running thence up a vast and 
desolate valley to Lake St. John, SOO M. S. W.. and the Moisic Eiver was 
part of ti*e canoe-rv»ute to Hudson's Bay. The Montaignais were here 
secure from the attacks of the dreadevi Mohawks on the one side, and the 
maritime Esqi: ::.:;- ;ix :.: the ether, and here they received the Jesuit mis- 



THE SEVEN ISLANDS. Route €4. 233 

The scenery of the Bay of Scyen Islands is famed for its wild heauty and weird 
desolation. The bay is 7 M. long, and is sheltered by the islands and a mountainous 
promontory on the W. The immediate shore is a fine sandy beach, back of which 
are broad lowlands, and " the two parallel ranges nf mountains, which add so much 
to the beauty of the distant scenery of this bay, look like huge and impenetrable 
barriers Vjetwcen the coast and the howling wilderness beyond them.-' In the spring 
and autumn this bay is visited Vjy myriads of ducks, geese, brant, and other wild 
fowl, and the salmon-fishing in the adjacent streams i.s of great value. The Great 
Bou,e is the loftiest of the Keven Islands, reaching an altitude of 700 ft. above the 
sea, and commanding a broad and magnificent view. There are about 300 inhab- 
itants here, a large proportion of whom are Indians who are engaged in the fur- 
trade. On Carrousel hland is a fixed light, 195 ft. above the sea, which is visible 
for 20 M. 

From Carrousel Island to the St. Margaret River it is 8 M. ; to tlie 
Cawee Islands, 24; to Sproule Point, 28; and still farther W. are the 
Pentecost River and English Point, off which are the Egg Islands, bear- 
ing a revolving white light, which warns off mariners from one of the most 
dangerous points on the coast. 

In the spring of 1711 the British government sent against Quebec 15 men-of-war, 
under Admiral Sir Ilovenden Walker, and 40 transjjorts containing 5,000 veteran 
eoldiers. During a terrible August storm, while they were ascending the Gulf of 
St. Lawrence, the fleet drove down on the Egg Islands. The frigates were saved 
from the shoals, but 8 transports were wrecked, with 1,383 men on board, and 
"884 brave fellows, who had passed scathless through the sanguinary battles of 
Blenheim, Ramillies, and Oudenarde, perished miserably on the desolate shores 
of the St. Lawrence." This terrible loss was the cause of tbe total failure of the ex- 
pedition. The French vessels which visited the isles after Walker'.s disaster '' found 
the wrecks of 8 large vessels, from which the cannon and best articles had been re- 
moved, and nearly 3,000 persons drowned, and their bodies lying along the shore. 
They recognized among them two whole companies of the Queen's Guards, dis- 
tinguished by their red coats, and several Scotch families, intended as settlers in 
Canada," among them seven women, all clasping each others hands. The regi- 
ments of Kaine, Windresse, Seymour, and Clayton were nearly annihilated in this 
wreck. "The French colony could not but recognize a Providence which watched 
singularly over its preservation , and which, not satisfied with rescuing it from 
the greatest danger it had yet run, had enriched it with the spoils of an enemy 
whom it had not had the pains to conquer ; hence they rendered Him most heart- 
felt thanks." (Charlevoix.) 

Beyond the hamlet on Caribou Point and the deep bight of Trinity Bay 
is Point de Monts (or, as some say, Point aux Demons), 280 M. from Que- 
bec. There is a powerful fixed light on this promontory. 8 11. beyond is 
Godbout, with its fur-trading post ; and 9 ]\I. farther W. is Cape St. Nicho- 
las. 18 M, from the cape is Manicouagan Point, 20 M. W. of which is the 
great Indian trading-post at the Bersimis River, where 700 Indians have 
their headquarters; thence to Cape Colombier it is 11^ M.; and to the 
church and fort at Port Neuf'it is 12 M. Point Mille Vaches is opposite 
Biquette, on the S. shore of the St. Lawrence, and is near the Sault de 
Mouton, a fall of 80 ft. There are several settlements of French Catholic 
farmers along the shore. At Les Escoumains there are 500 inhabitants 
and considerable quantities of grain and lumber are shipped. The coast 
is of granite, steep and bold, and runs S. W. 16 M. to Petite Bergeronne, 
whence it is 6^ M. to the mouth of the Saguenay River. 



2 3 J: Houtc Go. ANTICGSTI. 

65. Anticosti. 

The island of Anticosti lies in the mouth of the St. Lawrence River, and 
is lis JM. long and 31 M. wide. In 1871 it had about 80 inhabitants, in 
charge of the government lights and stations, and also 50 acres of cleared 
land and 3 horses. Fox River is 60 II. distant; the Jlingan Islands, 30 M. ; 
and Quebec, about 450 M. The island has lately been the scene of the 
operations of the Anticosti Land Company, which designed to found here 
a new Prince Edward Island, covering these peat-plains with prosperous 
farms. The enterprise has as yet met with but a limited success. 

Anticosti has some woodlands, but is for the most part covered with 
black peaty bogs and ponds, Avith bi'oad lagoons near the sea. The bogs 
resemble those of Ireland, and the forests are composed of low and stunted 
trees. The shores are lined with great piles of driftwood and the frag- 
ments of wrecks. There ai-e many bears, otters, foxes, and martens ; also 
partridges, geese, brant, teal, and all manner of aquatic fowl. The months 
of July and August ai-e rendered miserable by the presence of immense 
swarms of black flies and mosquitoes, bred in the swamps and bogs. 
Large whales are seen off these shores, and the early codfish are also found 
here. Fine limestone and marble occur in several places ; and marl and 
peat are found in vast quantities. There are lighthouses at S. W. Point, 
S. Point (and a fog-whistle), W. Point (and an alarm-gim), and Heath's 
Point. The government has established supply-huts along the shores 
since the terrible wreck of the Gvaniciis, on the S. E. point, when the crew 
reached the shore, but could find nothing to eat, and wei-e obliged to devour 
each other. None were saved. 

In 1690 one of Sir TTilliam Phipps's troop-ships wns wreckecl on Anticosti, during 
the retreat from Quebec, and but 5 of its people survived the winter on the island. 
When the ice broke up, these brave fellows started in a row-boat for Boston, 900 M. 
distant ; and after a passage of 44: days they reached their old home in safety. The 
island was granted in 1691 to the Sieiir Joliet, who erected a fort here, but was soon 
plundered and ejected by the English. In 1814 H. B. M. frigate Leopard, 50, the 
same vessel which captivred the U. S. frigate Chesapeake was lost here. 

" The dangerous, desolate shores of Anticosti, rich in wrecks, accursed in human 
siifFering. This hideous wilderness has been the grave of hundreds ; by the slowest 
andghastliest of deaths they died, — starvation. Washed ashore fi-om maimed and 
sinking ships, saved to destruction, they drag their chilled and battered limbs up the 
rough rocks ; for a moment, warm with hope, they look around with eager, strain- 
ing eyes for shelter, — and there is none ; the foiling sight darkens on hill and forest, 
forest and hill, and black despair. Hours and days waste out the lamp of life, until 
at length the withered skeletons have only strength to die." (Eliox Warburton.) 



PEOYII^CE OF QUEBEC. 



Quebec is bounded on the W. by the Province of Ontario, on the N. by 
the wilderness towards Hudson's Bay, on the E. by Maine, Labrador, and 
the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and on the S. by New Brunswick, New Eng- 
land, and New York. It covers 210,020 square miles, and its scenery is 
highly diversified and often mountainous, contrasting strongly with the 
immense prairies of Ontario. The stately river St. Lawrence traverses the 
Province from S. W. to N. E., and receives as tributaries the large rivers 
Ottawa, Richelieu, St. Maurice, and Saguenay. The Eastern Townships 
are famed for their fine highland scenery, amid which are beautiful lakes 
and glens. 

The Province of Quebec has 1,191,516 inhabitants (census of 1871), the 
vast majority of whom are of French descent and language. 1,019,850 of 
the people are Pvoman Catholics, and the laws of education are modified to 
suit the system of parish-schools. 

The Dominion of Canada is niled by a Governor-General (appointed by 
the British sovereign) and Privy Council, and a Parliament consisting of 
81 senators (24 each from Ontario and Quebec, 12 each from Nova Scotia and 
New Brunswick, and 9 from P. E. Island, Manitoba, and British Columbia) 
and 207 members of the House of Commons. There is one member for each 
17,000 souls, or 88 for Ontario, 65 for Quebec, 21 for Nova Scotia, 16 for New 
Brunswick, 6 each for Prince Edward Island and British Columbia, and 5 
for Manitoba. In 1872 the debt of the Dominion was $ 122,400,179, most 
of which represents internal improvements. There are 30,144 Canadian 
militiamen, with a military school at Kingston; and the navy consists of 
8 armed screw-steamers (on the lakes and the Gulf). In 1800 Canada had 
240,000 inhabitants; in 1825, 681,920; in 1851,1,842,265; and in 1871, 
3,657,887, — a fifteen-fold increase in 70 years. Between 1842 and 1872, 
831,168 emigrants from Great Britain entered Canada; and in the same 
period, 4,338,086 persons, from the same kingdom, emigrated to the United 
States. In 1871 and 1872 the exports of Canada amounted to $ 156,813,281, 
and her imports to $ 194,656,594. Her chief trade is with Great Britain 
and the United States, and the main exports are breadstuflfs and tim- 
ber. In 1872 the Dominion had 2,928 M. of railways, which had cost 
$ 163,553,000; and there were then 3,943 post-offices. 

The first European explorer who visited this country was Jaques Car- 



236 rEOYIXCE OF QUECEC. 

tier, who landed at Gaspe in 1534. and ascended the St. Lawrence to the site 
of Montreal during the following year. Seventeen .vears later the ill-fated 
Eoberval founded an ephemeral colony near Quebec, and thereafter for 
over half a century Canada Avas unvisited. In 1603 Champlain ascended 
to the site of ^Montreal, and Quebec and Montreal were soon founded; while 
the labors of explorations, missions, and lighting the Iroquois were carried 
on without cessation. In 1629 Canada was taken by an English fleet under 
Sir David Kirke, but it was restored to France in 1632. The Company of 
the Hundred Associates was foimded by Cardinal Eichelieu in 1627, to 
erect settlements in La XouveUe France, but the daring and merciless in- 
cursions of the Iroquois Indians prevented the growth of the colonies, and 
in 1663 the company was dissolved. Finally, after they had exterminated 
the unfortunate Huron nation, the Iroquois destroyed a part of ^Mon- 
treal and many of its people (16S9). The long and bitter Avars between 
Canada and the Anglo- American colonies had now commenced, and New 
York and XeAv England Avere ravaged by the French troops and their allied 
Indians. 

Naval expeditious Avere sent from Boston against Quebec in 1690 and 
1711, but they both ended disastrously. ^Montreal and its environs were 
scA'eral times assailed by the foi-ces of New York, but most of the fighting 
AA-as done on the line of Lake Champlain and in the Maritime Provinces. 
At last these outposts fell, and poAverful British armies entered Canada on 
the E. and W. In 1759 Wolfe's army captured Quebec, after a pitched 
battle on the Plains of Abraham; and in the folloAving year :\Iontreal Avas 
occupied by Gen. Amherst, Avith 17,000 men. The French troops Avere 
sent home ;' and in 1763, by the Treaty of Paris, France ceded to Great 
Britain all her immense Canadian domains. There were then 67,000 
French people and 8,000 Indians in the Province. 

The resident population Avas conciliated by tolerance to their religion 
and other liberal measures, and refused to join the American Colonies 
Avhen they revolted in 1775. The army of Gen. :Moutgomery took ^Montreal 
and the adjacent country, but the Canadians declined either to aid or to 
oppose the' Americans; and Avhen Arnold Avas defeated in his attempt to 
storm Quebec, the Continental forces Avere soon driven back into the 
United States. In 1791 the Provinces of Upper Canada and Lower Canada 
Avere formed, in order to stop the discontent of the French population, who 
were thus separated from the English and Loyalist settlements to the W. 
In 1791 representative goA-ernment Avas established, and in 1793 slaA-ery 
was abolished. The War of 1S12 Avas Avaged beyond the boundaries of 
LoAver Canada, except during the abortiA-e attempt of the Americans to 
capture ^Montreal. In 1S37 revolutionary uprisings occurred in various 
parts of Canada, and AA-ere only put doAvn after much bloodshed. In 1840 
the two Provinces were united, after Avhich the seigniorial tenures Avere 
abolished, decimal currency was adopted, the laAvs Avere codified, and other 



PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. 237 

improvements took place. The capital, which had been shifted from 
Kingston to Montreal, and then to Toronto, was established by the Queen 
at Ottawa in 1860. The French and English deputies in Parliament were 
still at odds, and after a long wrangle in 1864, the attention of the country- 
was drawn to the old project of confederation, which was at last realized 
in 1867, and Canada (then divided into Ontario and Quebec) and the Mari- 
time Provinces were consolidated into the Dominion of Canada. Since 
that day the councils of the Imperial Government have manifested a de- 
sire to give independence to the new State; and the Dominion, endowed 
with autonomic powers, has made rapid advances, building great railways, 
bridges, and canals, and forwarding internal improvements. Meantime 
Ontario has gained a preponderating power in the national councils, and 
the statesmen of Quebec are now maturing plans for the repatriation of 
the 500,000 French-Canadians now in the United States, hoping thereby to 
restore the Province of Quebec to her former pre-eminence and to popu- 
late her waste places. 

" Like a virgin goddess in a primeval world, Canada still walks in unconscious 
beauty among her golden woods and along the margin of her trackless streams, 
catching but broken glances of her radiant majesty, as mirrored on their surface, 
and scarcely dreams as yet of the glorious future awaiting her in the Olympus of 
nations." (Earl of Dufferin.) 

"The beggared noble of the early time became a sturdy country gentleman; 
poor, but not wretched ; ignorant of books, except possibly a few scraps of rusty 
Latin picked up in a Jesuit school ; hardy as the hardiest woodsman, yet never for- 
getting his quality of gent il/iomme ; scrupulously wearing its badge, the sword, and 
copying as well as he could the fashions of the court, which glowed on his vision 
across the sea in all the effulgence of Versailles, and beamed with reflected ray from 
the chateau of Quebec. He was at home among his tenants, at home among the 
Indians, and never more at home than when, a gun in his hand and a crucifix on 
his breast, he took the war-path with a crew of painted savages and Frenchmen 
almost as wild, and pounced like a lynx from the forest on some lonely farm or out- 
Ijing hamlet of New England. How New England hated him, let her records tell. 
The reddest blood-streaks on her old annals mark the track of the Canadian gentil- 
homme.^'' (Parkmax.) 

•* To a traveller from the Old World, Canada East may appear like a new coun- 
try, and its inhabitants like colonists ; but to me, coming from New England, .... 
it appeared as old as Normandy itself, and realized much that 1 had heard of 
Europe and the Middle Ages. Even the names of humble Canadian villages affected 
me as if they had been those of the renowned cities of antiquity. To be told by a 
habitant, when I asked the name of a village in sight, that it is St. Fereole or St. 
Anne, the Guardian Angel or the Holy Josep/i^s ; or of a mountain, that it was 
Belange or St. Hyacinthe .' As soon as you leave the States, these saintly names 
begin. St. John is the first town you stop at, and thenceforward the names of the 
mountains and streams and villages reel, if I may so speak, with the intoxication 
of poetry, — Chambly, Longueiiil, Pointe aux Trembles, Barthalomy, etc., etc., — as 
if it needed only a little foreign accent, a few more liquids and vowels perchance in 
the language, to make us locate our ideals at once. I began to dream of Provence 
and the Troubadours, and of places and things which have no existence on the 
earth. They veiled the Indian and the primitive forest, and the woods toward Hud- 
son's Bay were only as the forests of France and Germany. I could not at once 
bring myself to believe that the inhabitants who pronounced daily those beautiful 
and, to me, significant names lead as prosaic lives as we of New England. 



238 Funite 66. PICTOU TO QUEBEC. 

" One of the tributaries of the St. Anne is named La Riviere fie la Rose, and far- 
ther east are La Riviere de la Bloiuietk and La Riviere de la Friponne. Their very 
riviere meanders more than our rivtr [It is] a more western and wilder Arca- 
dia, methiuks, than the world has ever seen ; for the Greeks, with all their wood 
and river gods, were not so qualified to name the natural features of a country as 
the ancestors of these Freuch Canadians ; and if any people had a right to substi- 
tute their own for the Indian names, it was they. They have preceded the pioneer 
on our own frontiers, and named the prairie for us.'" (Thoreau.) 



On the question as to whether the Canadians speak good French, Potheric savs 
that " they had no dialect, which, indeed, is generally lost in a colony."' Charle- 
voix observed i^ about 1720) : '' The Freuch language is nowhere spoken with greater 
purity, there being no accent perceptible." Bougainville adds: "They do not 
know how to write, but they speak with ease and with an accent as good as the 
Parisian."' Prof. SiUimau says that they speak as good French as the common 
Americans speak English. 

From the voluminous work of M. Eameau, entitled La France aux Colonies — 
Acadiens et Canadiens (Paris, 1S59), we learn that in the year 1920 the valleys of 
the Saguenay, Ottawa, and Lower St. Lawrence shall be occupied by a Franco- 
Canadiim nation of 5,000,000 souls ; that the mournful vices, " impoverishment of 
intelligence, and corruption of manners," which the Anglo-American race in the 
United States has suffered, shall be opposed and checked by the fecund genius of the 
French race, and the " scientific aud artistic aptitudes of the Canadians," emanating 
contiuent-enlightening radiauce from the walls of the Laval University : that the 
dissolute bai'barism of the Americans shall be ameliorated by the sweet influences 
of the "Greco-Latin idea" of the Franco-Canadians; and that that agricultural 
and intellectual people, " the general and essential principle of whose material and 
intellectual power is in their religious foith and in the simplicity of their manners,*' 
shall profit by the sad experience of Old France, — and under the conservative influ- 
ences of a social aristocracy shall erect a New France, to be foi'ever illustrious in its 
culture " de Vesprit, la ino'destie des maurs, la liberie et la religion.'' 

06. Pictou to Quebec. — The Coasts of Qaspe and the Lower 
St. Lawi'ence. 

This voyage is full of interest to the lover of fine scenery, and leads through some 
of the most attractive piirts of the Provinces. The vessels pass the lofty highlands 
of Nova Scotia, the Acadian districts on the sandy shores of New Brunswick, the 
stately mountains about the Bay of Chaleur , and the frowning ridges of Gaspe. Then 
comes the ascent of the majestic St. Lawrence, with its white French villages, its 
Alpine shores, and romantic history, terminated by the quaint mediieval towers of 
Quebec, " the Walled City of the North.'' The steamers are large and comfortable, 
and are quite steady in ordinary seasons. The cabin-tables are well supplied, aud 
the attendance is good. There is but little danger from sea-sickness, except in very 
breezy weather (see also page 3). 

This route is served by the vessels of the Quebec and Gulf Ports Steamship Com- 
pany, the Stcrtt and the 3lira)7iichi. The Gtorgia formerly plied between Pictou, 
Charlottetowu, Shediac, and Quebec, but she was wrecked on the coast of Maine in 
January, 1S75. The times of departure are hable to variations in case that heavy 
cargoes are to be landed or shipped at any of the ports. The following time-table is 
tha^ of the Q. & G. P. S. S. Co. for 1874 ; further particulars, and the details of 
changes (if there should be any) may be obtained from the company's agents. 

Passengers leave Halifax by railway Monday morning, and connect with the 
steamship, which leaves Pictou at 7 a. m. on Tuesday. By leaving St. John on 
the Tuesday -morning train, the boat is met at Shediac, which she entei-s at 5 p. m. 
on Tuesday, leaving at 7 P. m. She reaches Chatham at 6 a. m. on Wednesday, and 
leaves at 7 A. 5i. ; Newcastle at 7.30 a. m., Wednesday, leaving at 8 a. m. : Dalhousie 
at 1 A. M., Thursday, leaving at i a. m. : Paspebiac at 9 a. ai., Thursday, leaving at 
10 a.m.; Perc^ at 4 p.m., Thursday, leaving at 4.30 p.m.; Gaspe at 7 p.m., Thurs- 
day, leaving at S p. m. ; Father Point at 7 P. m., Friday, leaving at 8 p.m.; and ar- 
rives at Quebec ct 10 a. m., on Saturday. 



CAELETON. Route 66. 239 

Quebec to Pictou. — The steamship leaves Quebec at 2 p. M., on Tuesday ; Father 
Point, 6 A.M., Wednesday; Gasp6, 4 a.m., Thursday; Perce, 8 a.m., Thursday; 
Paspebiac, 3 p. M., Thursday ; Dalhousie, 9 p. M., Thursday ; Chatham, 4 p. m., Fri- 
day ; Newcastle, 6 P.M., Friday ; Shediac, 3 a.m., Saturday (morning train to St. 
John) ; and arrives at Pictou at 1 p.m., Saturday, connecting with the afternoon 
train to Halifax. 

Fares. — (Meals are included in the Ist-class fares, but the state-rooms are extra. 
The 2d-class fares are without meals.) Halifax to Shediac, ^ 5 or $3.50 ; to Chat- 
ham or Newcastle, f 8.50 or $ 4.50 ; to Dalhousie, f 11.50 or $6 ; to Paspebiac, S 12.50 
or « 6.50 ; to Perce or Gasp^, $ 12 or $ 7 ; to Father Point, $ 17 or $ 8 ; to Quebec, 
$17.50 or .^8.50. 

Quebec to Halifax. — Quebec to Father Point, | 4 or $2; to Gasp6, $ 10 or §? 4 ; 
to Perce, $ 11 or"$ 4.25 ; to Paspebiac, $ 13 or $ 5 ; to Dalhousie, $ 14 or $ 5.50 ; to 
Chatham or Newcastle, $ 14 or $ 5 ; to Shediac, $15 or $ 7 ; (to St. John by rail, 
$ 16 or 8? 8) ; to Pictou, $ 16 or $ 7.50 ; to Halifax, $ 17.50 or S 8.50. 

Distances. — Pictou to Shediac, 120 M. ; to Chatham, 225; Newcastle, 230; 
Dalhousie, 423; Paspebiac, 478; Perce, 549; Gasp6, 578 ; Father Point, 846 ; Que- 
bec, 1,028. 

Halifax to Pictou, see Route 31. St. John to Shediac, see Route 14. 

After leaving Pictou Harbor, the steamship passes out between Caribou 
Island and Pictou Island (see also page 175), and enters the Northumber- 
land Strait. On the S. are the dark highlands of Pictou County, among 
whose glens are scattered settlements of Scottish people. 10 - 12 M. N. are 
the low hills of Prince Edward Island. The deep bight of Tatamagouche 
Bay (see page 81) is passed about 35 M. W. of Pictou, and the blue and 
monotonous line of the Cobequid Mts. may be seen in the S., in very clear 
weather. Beyond Bale Verte the steamer passes through the narrow 
part of the Strait between Cape Traverse and Cape Tormentine, and the 
low red shores of Prince Edward Island are seen on the r. The coui-se is 
next laid along the level "Westmoreland coast (see page 59), and the har- 
bor of Shediac is entered. 

The general aspect of the N. Shore of New Brunswick is described in 
Route 15 (page 60). It is to be remembered, however, that the Gulf- 
Ports steamships do not stop at Richibucto, Bathurst, or Campbellton. 
Having, then, described the coast from Shediac to Dalhousie in Route 15, 
the present route will follow the shores of the great Gaspesian peninsula. 

As the steamship leaves the estuary of the Restigouche, the red sand- 
stone cliffs of Maguacha Point are passed, on the 1., beyond which is the 
broad lagoon of Carleton Road. The beautiful peak of * Tracadiegash 
is now approached, and after passing the lighthouse on Tracadiegash 
Point, the white village of Carleton is seen on the Quebec shore. This 
place has about 800 inhabitants and a convent, and is snugly situated 
under the lee of the mountains, near a bay which is secure during gales 
from the N. and E. Immense schools of herring visit these shores during 
the springtime, at the spawning season, and are caught, to be used as food 
and for fertilizing the grpund. The village is enterprising and active, and 
is inhabited chiefly by Acadians. The steamer stops off the port if there 
are any passengers or freight to be landed. 



240 Route 66. PASPEBIAC. 

" Carleton is a pretty town, to -which a little steamer sometiines runs firom Dal- 
housie, rendering the salmon streams in the Ticinity quite accessible. "When the 

sun shines, it? white cottages, nestling at the foot of the majestic Tracadiegash 
Mountain, glisten like snovv^-flakes against the sombre background, and gleam out 
in ioTeiy colitxast with the clouds that cap the summit of this outpost sentinel of 
the Alleghany range." (Halloc£.) 

The steamer now passes out upon "the undulating and voluptuous Bay 
of Chaleur, full of long folds, of languishing contours, which the vrind 
caresses with fan-like breath, and whose softened shores receive the flood- 
ing of the waves without a murmur." On the X. is Cascapediac Bay, on 
whose shores are the Acadian and Scottish hamlets of Maria and New 
Eichmond, devoted to farming and the fisheries. The rugged peaks of the 
Tracadiegash range are seen in fine retrospective views. 

Xeic Carlisle is near the mouth of the Grand Bonaventure Eiver, and is 
the capital of Bonaventure County. It has 400 inhabitants, and is en- 
gaged in the fisheries, having also a few summer visitors. The churches 
and court-house occupy a conspicuous position on the high bank which 
overlooks the bay. This town was founded in 1785 by American Loyal- 
ists, who received from the government one year's provisions, lands, seeds, 
and farming-implements. 8400,000 was expended in establishing this 
settlement and Douglastown. 

Paspebiac ( Clarke's Hotel) is a village of 250 inhabitants, situated on 
the X. shore of the Bay of Chaleur, 440 M. from Quebec. Its harbor is 
formed by a fine beach of sand 3 31. long, curving to the S., and forming 
a natural breakwater against the sea during easterly gales. The church 
and houses of the village are built above the red cliffs of the shore, and 
present the neat and orderly appearance of a military post. On the line 
of the beach are the great white (and red-trimmed) storehouses and ship- 
yards of Charles Eobin & Co. and Le Boutillier Brothers, the mercantile 
establishments which sustain the place. 

Robin & Co. is an ancient house which dates from 17&S. and has its headquarters 
at the Isle of Jersey, off the coast of France. Paspebiac was settled in 1766 by Charles 
Robin, who established here a large fishing-station. In June, 1778. the place was 
taken by two American privateers, which carried away the vessels Hope and Bee. 
The whole fleet was soon afterward captured by H. B. M. frigates Hunter and Piper, 
but Robin was forced to pay such heavy salvage that it ruined his business. In 
17Sj he came back here under French colors, and in 20 years accumolated a great 
fortune. The firm of Charles Robin & Co. is now the most powerful on all these 
coasts, and keeps large fleets employed, supporting numerous villages from 7 wealthy 
establishments. The heads of the" firm Uve in Jersey, and their officers and man- 
agers on this coa^t are forced by rule to lead a life of celibacy. This company em- 
ploys 750 men, besides 17 vessels and 151 sailors : and the LeBoutiUiers have 5S0 
men and 15 vessels. They export vast quantities of fish and oil to the "West Indies 
and the Mediterranean, supplying their Canadian posts, in return, with aU needed 
pro<iucts of other countries. Paspebiac receives S ICC' ,000 worth of goods yearly, 
and exports .S 3'X'.<>Xi worth of fish. The best fish is sent to the Mediterranean in 
bulk, the second grade goes in tube to Brazil, and the poorest is shipped in casks 
to the "West Indies. The Jersey fleet reaches Paspebiac early in May, spends the 
summer fishing in the bay and Gulf, and returns in December. The American mar- 
ket is supplied by the Cape- Ann fleet in these waters :, and the proceeds of the au- 
tumnal months are sold In Tpper Canada. The annual yield of the Bay of Chaleur 
is estimated at 26,00<j quintals of dry codfish, 6C«J quintals of haddock, 3,Ci00 bar- 



CAPE DESPAIR. Route 66. 241 

rels of herring, 300 barrels of salmon, and 15,000 gallons of cod-oil. The fisheries 
of the bay and Gulf are valued at § 800,000 a year, and employ 1,500 sail of vessels 
and 18,000 men. 

In January and February the thermometer sometimes sinks to 25° below zero, 
and the bay is overhung by dark masses of "frost smoke."' In this season the 
Aurora Borealis is seen by night, illuminating the whole northern horizon with 
steady brilliance. In Julj^ and August the thermometer ranges from 65^ to 106°, 
and the air is tempered by fresh sea-breezes. 

The name Paspebiac means " broken banks," and the inhabitants are called 
Paspy Jacks or Pospillots. Many of the bits of agate and jasper called ' ' Gaspe peb- 
bles " are found on this shore after the gales of spring and autumn, and are sent to 
the jewellers of London and Quebec It is supposed that they come from the con- 
glomerate rocks on the Restigouche River. 

Beyond Paspebiac are the shores of Hope, on which immense masses of 
caplin-fish are thrown up every spring. The}^ are shovelled into wagons 
by the fanners and are used to fertilize the land. The next point of in- 
terest is the deep bay of Port Daniel, a safe and well-sheltered haven, on 
whose W. shore is a remarkable hill, 400 ft. high. Near the fishing- 
viUage up the harbor are deposits of oil-bearing shale. The steamer soon 
passes Point Maquereau (which some consider the N. portal of the Bay of 
Chaleur), with Point Miscou on the S. E. 

At midnight on Oct. 15, 1838, the ship Colborne went ashore on Point Maquereau, 
and was soon broken to pieces. Her crew, consisting of 42 men, was lost. The 
cargo was composed of silks, wines, silver-plate, and specie, and was valued at 
over $400,000. The wreckers of Gaspe recovered rich treasures from the wreck. 

Newport is 6 M. beyond Point Maquereau, and is inhabited b}' 200 Aca- 
dians, who are devoted to the fisheries and to the pursuit of the vast flocks 
of wild fowl which resort to these shores during the spring and autumn. 
Great and Little Pabos are seaside hamlets, 4 and 8 M. farther E. 4 M. 
beyond is Grand River, a large Acadian village clustered about the fish- 
ing-establishment of Robin & Co. It is 7 M. from this point to Cape 
Despair. 

Cape Despair was named by the French Cap cCEspoir, or Cape Hope, and the 
present name is either an Anglicized pronunciation of this French word, or else was 
given in memory of the terrible disaster of 1711. During that year Queen Anne sent 
a great fleet, with 7,000 soldiers, with orders to capture Quebec and occupy Canada. 
The fleet was under Admiral Sir Hovenden Walker, and the army was commanded 
by Gen. Hill. During a black fog, on the 22d of August, a violent storm arose and 
scattered the fleet in all directions, hurUng 8 large ships on the terrible ledges of 
Egg Island (see page 233) and Cape Despair, where they were lost with all on board. 
Fragments of the wrecks, called Le Naufrage Anglais, were to be seen along the 
shores until a recent date ; and there was a wild superstition among the fishermen 
to the effect that sometimes, when the sea was quiet and calm, vast white waves 
■would roll inward from the Gulf, bearing a phantom ship crowded with men in 
ancient military costumes. An ofiScer stands on the bow, with a white-clad woman 
on his left arm, and as the maddened surge sweeps the doomed sbip on with hght- 
ning speed, a tremendous crash ensues, the clear, agonized cry of a woman swells 
over the great voice of despair, — and naught is seen but the black chffs and the 
level sea. 

Just beyond Cape Despair is the prosperous fishing-station of Cape Cove, 
9 M. from Perc^. The traveller should now be on the lookout for the 
Perc^ Rock and Bonaventure Island. The steamer runs in between the 
Eock and the Island, affording fine views of both. 

11 P 



2tl:2 Houte G6. PERCE. 

The * Perce Eock is 288 ft. high, rising with precipitous walls directly 
from the waves ; and is about 500 ft. long. This citadel-like clift'is pierced 
by a lofty arch, through which the long levels of the sea are visible. Small 
bpats sometimes traverse this weird passage, under the immense Gothic 
arch of rock. There was formerly another tunnel, near the outer point of 
the Eock, but its roof fell in with a tremendous crash, and left a gi'eat 
obelisk rising from the sea beyond. 

The summit of the Perce Rock covers about two acres, and is divided into two 
great districts, one of which is inhabited by the gulls, and the cormorants dwell on 
the other. If either of these trespasses on the other's territory (which occurs every 
fifteen minutes, at least), a battle ensues, the shrill cries of hundreds or thousands 
of birds rend the air, great clouds of combatants hover over the plateau, and peace 
is only restored by the retreat of the invader. When the conflict is between large 
flocks", it is a scene worthy of close notice, and sometimes becomes highly exciting. 
The Rock is at right angles with Mt. Joli, and is of new red sandstone. The top is 
covered with fine gi-ass. 

Many yeiu-s ago the Rock was ascended by two fishermen, and the way once being 
found,' scores of men clambered up by ropes and carried away the eggs and young 
biitls, finding the older ones so tame that they had to be lifted off the nests. This 
vast aviary would have been depopulated long ere this, but that the Perce magis- 
trates passed a law forbidding the ascent of the Rock. There are numerous quaint 
aud weird legends attached to this place, the strangest of which is that of Le Genie 
de Vile Percee, a phantom often seen over the plateau. " Itis likely that the founda- 
tion for this legend can be traced to the vapory or cloud-like appearance the vast 
flocks of water-fowl assume when seen at a distance, wheeling in every fantastic 
shape tlu'ough the air, previous to alighting on the summit."' 

The harbor of Perce is very insecure, and is open to the N. E. winds. la 
earlier times this port was called La Terre des Tempetes, so frequent and 
disastrous were the storms. The village has about 400 inhabitants, most 
of whom follow the shore-fisheries in small boats. The town is visited 
every spring and summer by hundreds of stalwart Jersey lads, sent out by 
the Eobins. 

Perce consists of South Beach, where are the white-and-red buildings of 
the Robin establishment; and Xorth Beach, where is the bulk of the popu- 
lation, with the court-house, jail, and Catholic church. The two sections 
are separated by jMount Joli, a lofty promontory which here approaches 
Perc^ Rock. The Episcopal church is a cosey little Gothic structure,. 
accommodating 100 persons. Perc6 is " the Elysium of fishermen," and 
hence arises a circumstance which detracts from its value as a summer 
resort, — when the shore is covered with the refuse parts of codfish, pro- 
ducing a powerful and unpleasant odor. It is said that even the potatoes 
are found to contain fish-bones. 

Back of Perce is the remarkable * Mount St. Anne, with its bold and 
massive square top rising 1,230 ft. above the sea, and visible for a distance 
of 70 M. over the water. This eminence may be ascended Avithout great 
trouble, and from its summit is obtained one of the noblest views in the 
^Maritime Provinces. It includes many leagues of the savage mountain- 
land of Gaspe, extending also along the coast from the Bay of Chaleur to 
Gasp^ Bay and Ship Head. But the marine view is the most attractive, 



PERCE. Route 66. 243 

and embraces many leagues of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, with its great fish- 
ing-fleets and squadrons of small boats. It overlooks Bonaventure and 
Perc6 Eock. A fine view is also obtained from the highAvay near French 
Town, including a vast area of the Gulf, the bird-colonies on top of the 
Rock, Point St. Peter, and Barry Head, with its conspicuous Catholic 
chui-ch. The walk around the mountain to the corner of the beach is full 
of interest; and the road through the hills to Gasp^ is picturesque, though 
rough, leading by Corny Beach and through a profound mountain-gorge. 
Mt. St. Anne is also known as Mt. Joli and the Table Roulante. Upon its 
red-sandstone slopes are found shell-fossils, jasper, agate, and fine quartz 
crystals. 

* Bonaventure Island forms a gi-eat natural breakwater before the 
Perce shores, and is suri-oianded by deep channels. It is 2^ ]M. from the main- 
land, and .the passage ax*ound the island in a small boat afi'ords a pleasant 
excursion. Bonaventure is 2^ M. long and | M. wide, and is a vast pile 
of red conglomei-ate rock, with a line of cliffs 3-500 ft. high, facing the 
Gulf over 50 fathoms of water. There are about 300 French Catholics 
on the shores, connected Avith the fishing-establishment of LeBoutillier 
Brothers. The island was formerly the property of Capt. Duval, a brave 
mariner of the Channel Isles, who, in the privateer Vulture, swept the 
coasts of France during the Napoleonic wars. He is buried on Mount Joli. 

" Perce is one of the curiosities of the St. Lawrence. If one should believe all the 
fantastic stories, to which tradition adds its prestige, that rest about this formidable 
rock, thrown forward into a ceaselessly surging and often stormy sea, like a fearless 
defiance from the shoal to the abyss, it could only be approached with a mysterious 
dread mingled with anguish. Perc6 proper is a village of 200 firesides, established 
on a promontory that seems to guard the St. Lawrence : this promontory is not lofty, 
nor does it compare with our northern mountains ; but it is wrinkled, menacing, 
full of a fierce grandeur ; it might be said that the long battle with the ocean has 
revealed to it its strength and the power which it holds from God to restrain the 
waves from passing their appointed bounds. It is an archer of the Middle Ages, 
covered with iron, immovable in his armor, and Avho receives, invulnerable, all the 
blows of the enemy. In face of the Atlantic, which has beaten it with tempests 
through thousands of centuries, trembling under the eternal shower of the waves, 
but immovable as a decree of heaven, gloomy, thoughtful, enduring without mur- 
mur the wrathful torrents that inundate it, bent downward like a fallen god who 
expiates in an eternity the arrogant pride of a single day, Perc6 fills us at once with 
a sorrowful admiration and a sublime pity." (Arthur Buies.) 

Perc^ was visited by Cartier in 1534, and thereafter became a celebrated fishing- 
station for the French fleets. The coast from Canso to Cape Rosier was granted 
soon after, and on its reversion to the Crown this site was bestowed on De Fronsac, 
who founded a permanent village here, while over 500 transient fishermen made it a 
summer rendezvous. Bishop Laval sent the Franciscans here in 1673 to look after 
the spiritual welfare of the people, and they erected a chapel at Perce and the 
Church of St. Claire on Bonaventure Island. In 1690 the place was taken, with aU 
its vessels, by two British frigates, whose crews sacked and burnt all the houses at 
Perc6 and Bonaventure, destroyed the churches, and fired 150 gunshots through 
the picture of St. Peter. In 1711 another naval attack was made by the British, 
and the French ships Hdros and Vermandois were captured in the harbor. In 1776 
a desperate naval combat took place off Perc6 Rock, between the American pri- 
vateers that had devastated the shores of the Bay of Chaleur and the British war- 
vessels TFo^ and Diligence, Two of the American vessels were sunk within cannon- 
shot of the Rock. 



244 Houte 60. GASP^. 

After leaving her anchorage off Perc<5 the steamship runs N. across the 
openings of Mi\\ Bay, and at 9 M. out passes Point St. Peter, Avith its fish- 
ing-village. The course is next laid to the N. W. up Gaspe Bay, -with the 
fatal strand of the Grand Greve on the r. To the 1. is Poiiglastoim, on 
the broad lagoon at the mouth of the St. John Kiver (famous for salmon). 
This tOAvn was laid out by Surveyor Douglas, and is inhabited by Irish 
and French people. The vessel no"\v steams in through the narrow strait 
between the grand natural bi-eakwater of Sandybeach and the N. shore, 
and enters the * Gaspe Basin. The bay is 20 M. long and 5 M. wide, 
and the basin is a secure and land-locked harbor at its head. As the 
steamer rounds the lighthouse on Saiulybeach, beautiful views are pre- 
sented of the broad haven, with the North Kiver Mts. to tlie W. 

" The mountains of Gaspe arc fair to behold, 
AVith their fleckiiigs of shadow and gleamings of gold." • 

Gaspe {Gulf House) is a town of 800 inhabitants, beautifully situated 
betAveen the mountains and the sea, and fronting on the S. "W. arm of the 
basin. It is the capital of the county and a free port of entry, and is de- 
voted to the fisheries, having several whaling-ships and a large fleet of 
schooners. The Gaspe codtish are preferred, in the ^lediterranean ports, 
to the Newfoundland fish, because they are not so salty. The chief 
establishment here is that of the LeBoutilliers, who have also a fine 
mansion near the village. Petroleum has been found here, and wells 7 - SCO 
ft. deep have been sunk by two companies. Gasp^ is visited by 2-800 
city people every summer, for the sake of its picturesque scenery, cool 
and sparkling air, and the conveniences for yachting and for fishing. The 
York and Dartmouth Eivers empty into the basin, and are famous for 
their game-fish. The adjacent shores are fertile and are thickly settled, 
and the town itself is rapidly advancing in importance. On a hill to 
the S. is Fort Ramsay, a line of guns among the trees. This is the first 
point N. of Newcastle where the steamer is moored to a wharf. Monthly 
mail-packets run from Gasp^ to Esqiiimaux Bay, on the Labrador coast 
(see page 230). 

*' What a glorious sight I Imagine a bay 20 M. long ending in a basin where a 
fleet of a thoiisaud vessels could be sheltered. On right and left, two rivers, which 
ai-o parted by the port, sweep around the amphithoatrioal shores ; hills here and 
thoi-e of savage outline or covei-ed with i-oundod lawns ; below, a little line of piei-s, 
tishing-Yossels, schooners and some brigs swinging their slackened sails in the light 
bnx'zo which blows from the shores ; something wild, fivsh, and vigoi-ous, like the 
lii-st spring of a great civation. The Gaspe Basin has traits of the giant and of the 
infant ; it astonishes and charms ; it has a harmony at once delicate and striking." 
(Arthur Buies.) 

The Indians of Gaspe were distinguished, in a remote age, for unusual advances 
in civilization. They kncAv the points of the compass, traced maps of their country, 
obsoi-vcd the positions of the stars, and woi-shipped the symbol of the cross. They 
informed the early Jesuit missionaries that in far distant ages they were scourged 
by a fatal pestilence, until a venerable man landed on their shore, and arrested the 
progress of the disease by erecting the cross (see PiRE Leclekc's Nouvelle Relation de 



GASPE' Route 66. 245 

la Gaspisie, 1676). It is supposed that this mysterious visitor was a Norseman. The 
name Gaspe means " lands end," one of its component parts being found also in 
the aboriginal words Mala-gash, Tracadie-gash, etc. The warlike tribes on this 
shore were formerly distinguished for their fierce and Tictorious forays into the re- 
mote lands of the Montaignais and Esquimaux. 

Prof. Rafn, the great Danish archaeologist, has advanced a theory to the effect 
that Gaspe was a fishing-station of the Norse vikings in the 11th, 12th, and 1.3th 
centuries. It is supposed that it was visited in 1506 by the Spanish mariner Velasco, 
who ascended the St. Lawrence for 200 leagues, or else by Stefano Gomez, who was 
sailing from Spain to Cuba in 1525, but was blown far from his course, and entered 
the Gulf of St. Lawrence. There is an old Castilian tradition that the gold-seeking 
Spaniards, finding no precious metals here, said, " Aca ndda " (" There is nothing 
here"). This oft-repeated phrase became fixed in the memory of the Indians, 
though it was not comprehended ; and when Cartier came, they supposed him to be 
of the same people as the previous European visitors, and endeavored to excite his 
interest by repeating the words, " Aca nida, Aca nida." He thought that they 
were giving him the name of their nation or country, and so, according to this 
puerile tradition, arose the name of Canada. Another theory of the derivation of 
the name was given by the early New-Englanders : " New England is by some af- 
firmed to be an island, bounded on the north with the River Canada (so called from 
Monsieur Cane)." (Josselyn's New EnglandKs Rarities Discovered, 1672.) "From 
this lake northwards is derived the famous River of Canada, so named of Monsieur 
de Cane, a French Lord, who first planted a colony of French in America." (Mor- 
ton's New English Canaan, 1632.) 

The generally received account of the origin of the name Canada is that it is an 
Indian compound word. Caugh-na-waugh-a means " the village of the rapid," its 
first syllable being similar to that of the Indian word Caugh-na-daugh, "village of 
huts" (also of Caugh-yu-ga, or Cayuga, and Caugh-na-daugh-ga, now Canan- 
dxi^ua), which has been euphonized into " Canada." When Brant, the Mohawk 
chieftain, translated the Gospel of St. Matthew into his own language, he always 
put Canada for " a village." 

In April, 1534 (being then in his fortieth year), the bold and sagacious Jaques 
Cartier set sail from ancient St. Malo (" thrust out like a buttress into the sea, 
strange and grim of aspect, breathing war from its walls and battlements of ragged 
stone, — a stronghold of privateers, the home of a race whose intractable and de- 
fiant independence neither time nor change has subdued"). He was under the 
patronage of Philippe de Brion-Chabot. Admiral of France, and was sent forth to 
reconnoitre a new route to Cathay, for the great advantage of European commerce. 
It was also thought that in the new realms beyond the sea the Catholic Church 
might make such conquests as would requite her for the great schisms of Luther and 
Calvin and the Anglican Church. The result has nearly justified the hope. 

The intrepid voyager traversed the Strait of Belle Isle, and stretched across to 
the Baie.des Chaleurs, which was entered on the 9th of July, and received its name 
from the intense heats which the mariners encountered there. He then landed at 
Gaspe, and took possession of the country in the name of his Church and King by 
erecting a cross, 30 ft. high, adorned with the fleur-de-lis. Here he met a company 
of warriors from Quebec, campaigning against the natives of this region, and car- 
ried two of them to France. They were introduced to all the splendors of Paris 
and the court of Francis I., and in the following year returned with Cartier and 
piloted his fleet up the St. Lawrence to their home at Stadacona (Quebec). 

" Twenty vessels were laden with stores, food, building implements, guns, and 
ammunition ; nearly 150 pieces of ordnance were stowed away in the different holds, 
to be mounted upon the walls of Quebec and other forts ; the decks were crowded 
with emigrants, male and female; priests were there, burning with religious zeal; 
and everything looked hopeful for their success. The whole fleet was put under the 
command of M. de Roquemont, a French Admiral ; and full of hope and expectation 
they set sail from France in the month of April, 1627." This stately fleet was over- 
taken by a storm in the Gulf, and took refuge in Gaspe Bay, where they were boldly 
attacked by Captain Kirke's EngHsh squadron of 3 vessels. Kirke summoned the 
immensely superior French fleet to surrender, but De Roquemont, though unprepared 
for battle, and hampered with freight and non-combatants, sent back a spirited refusal. 
The Kirkes then sailed boldly into the hostile fleet, and after raking the Admiral's 



2^0 Iloui,:e:. THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE. 

ship, carried it by boarding. The French resisted but feebly, and the whole sqr.r.d- 
ivu tell into the "bold Ei-iion's hands. He burnt 10 vessels, and Ireighted the others 
with the grand train of artillery and the other stores, with which he returned to 
Eucland-" Champlain was left in despair, at Quebec ; and tlie Kirkes were burnt 
in efficv in the Place de Greve, at Paris. 

Gaspe was honored, in Iwo. by the sojourn of the brave old Baron Dubois d'Ar- 
auiTour. some time Governor of New France. From this point he sent his cekbrateii 
memorilu to Colbert, the Fi-ench Prim.e Minister, after he had been deposed from 
office through the indueuce of Bishop Laval and the Jesuits. Hence he ssuled to 
I" ranee, and soon met a soldier's death in the Croatian fortress of Zrin, which he 
was defending agtunst the Txirks. 

In the year 17(30 Commovlore Byron's powerful fleet entered Gasp^ Basin and 
captured the village. The French frigate La Catharina was in the harbor, but 
was soon taken and destroyed by fire. Many years ago the Gtispesian peninsula was 
erected into a pi-ovince, and the seat of government was located at this town. But 
the number of inhabitants was not enough to warrant the expense of a vice-regal 
court, and the peninsula was reannesed to Quebec. 

In leaving Gaspe Basin the steamship passes the beaches of the X. 
shore, lined with ■svhale-huts and fish-stages, and then mns to the S. K. 
down Gaspe Bay. * Cape Gaspe is 7^ M. N. of Point St. Peter, and 
fronts the Gnlf with a line oi sandstone clitis 692 ft. high. Ofi" the S. E. 
point there was formerly a statne-like rock 100 tt. high, called La Vidlle 
(the Old "\Voman\ bnt it has been thrown down by the sea. The Indians 
named this rock Gastpicit, w-hence the name Gaspe, which is now applied 
to the great peninsula between the Bay of Chalenr and the St. Lawrence 
River. Two leagues beyond Cape Gaspe the steamship passes Cape Hosier, 
and enters the St. Lawrence River. 

67. The Lower St Lawrence. 

" The most interesting object in Canada to n:e was the River St. Lawrence, known 
for and wide, and for centuries, as the Great River. Carrier, its discoverer, sailed 
up it as far as Montreal in 15oo, nearly a century before the coming of the Pil- 
grims : and I have seen a pretty accurate map of it so far. containing the city of 
•^Hoohelaga ' and the river * Saguenay,' in Ortelius"s Theatrum Orbis Terranmi, 
printed at Antwerp in 1575. in which the fomous cities of • Norumbega " and ' Or- 
sinora ■ stand on the rough-blocked continent where Xew England is to-day. and 
the fabulous but unfortunate Isle of Demons, and Frislant. and others, lie oflaud 
on in the unfrequented sea. some of them prowhng near what is now the course of 
the Cunard ste:\mers. It was famous in Europe before the other rivers of North 
America were heard of. notwithstanding that the mouth of the ^lississippi is said to 
have been discovered first, and its stream was reached by De Soto not long after ; 
but the St. Lawrence had attracted settlers to its cold shores long before the Missis- 
sippi, or even the Hudson, was known to the world. The first explorers declared 
that the sximmer in that country was as warm as France, and they named one of 
the bays in the Gulf of St. Lawrence the Bay of Chaleur, or warmth ; but they 
said nothing about the winter being as cold as Greenland. In the MS. account 
of Carrier's second voyage it is called ' the greatest river, without comparison, 
that is known to have ever been seen." The savages told him that it was the 
' CherTiin dii Catiada' (the highway to Canada]^, 'which goes so far that no man 
hath ever been to the end, that they had heard.' The Saguenay, one of its tribu- 
taries, is described by Cartier in I-doo, and still more particularly by Jean Alphonse 
in 15i'2. who adds : ' I think that this river comes from the sea of Cathay, for in 
this place there issues a strong current, and there runs here a terrible tide." The 
early explorers saw many whales and other sea-monsters far up the St. Lawrence. 
Chaniplain, in his map. represents a whale spouring in the harbor of Quebec, 3'30 M. 
from what mav be called the mouth of the river : and Charlevoix took his reader to 



CAPE KOSIER. 



Route 67. 247 



the summit of Cape Diamond to see the ' porpoises, •white as snow,' sporting on the 
surface of the harbor of Quebec. In Champlain's day it was commonly called ' the 
Great River of Canada.' More than one nation has claimed it. In Ogilby's ' Amer- 
ica of 1670,' in the map Novi Belgi, it is called ' De Groote Rivier van Niew Ne- 
derlandt ' It rises near another father of waters, the Mississippi, issuing from a 
remarkable spring far up in the woods, called Lake Superior, 1,500 M. in circum- 
ference ; and several other springs there are thereabouts which feed it. It makes 
such a noise in its tumbling down at one place as is heard all round the world. 
Bouchette, the Surveyor-General of the Canadas, calls it ' the most splendid river 
on the globe ' ; says that it is 2,000 M. long (more recent geographers make it 4-500 
M. longer ) ; that at the Riviere du Sud it is 11 M. wide ; at the Paps of Matane, 25 ; 
at the Seven Islands, 73 ; and at its mouth, from Cape Rosier to the Mingan Settle- 
ments in Labrador, 98 M. wide. It has much the largest estuary, regarding both 
length and breadth, of any river on the globe. Perhaps Charlevoix describes the 
St. Lawrence truly as the most navigatile river in the world. Between Montreal 
and Quebec it averages 2 M. wide. The tide is felt as far up as Three Rivers, 432 
M., which is as far as from Boston to Washington. The geographer Guyot ob- 
serves that the Maranon is 3,000 M. long, and gathers its waters from a surface of 
1,500,000 square M. ; that the Mississippi is also 3,000 M. long, but its basin covers 
only 8-900,000 square M. ; that the St. Lawrence is 1,800 M. long, and its basin 
covers 1,000,000 square M. ; and speaking of the lakes, he adds : ' These vast fresh- 
water seas, together with the St. Lawrence, cover a surface of nearly 100,000 square 
M., and it has been calculated that they contain about one half of all the fresh 
water on the surface of our planet. ' Pilots say there are no soundings tiU 150 M. 
up the St. Lawrence. McTaggart, an engineer, observes that ' the Ottawa is larger 
than all the rivers in Great Britain, were they running in one.' The traveller Grey 
writes : ' There is not perhaps in the whole extent of this immense continent so fine 
an approach to it as by the river St. Lawrence. In the Southern States you have, 
in general, a level country for many miles inland ; here you are introduced at once 
into a majestic scenery, where everything is on a grand scale, — mountains, woods, 
lakes, rivers, precipices, waterfalls.' We have not yet the data for a minute com- 
parison of the St. Lawrence with the South American rivers ; but it is obvious that, 
taking it in connection with its lakes, its estuary, and its falls, it easily bears off 
the palm from all the rivers on the globe." (Freely condensed from Thoreau's 
A Yankee in Canada.) 



Bien loin de ses pourbis, sous Tombre des 

platanes, 
L'Arabe au blanche burnous qui suit les 
caravanes 
Sur les sables errant 
Decouvre moins joycux son oasis humide, 
Que les Canadiens sous la saison torride 
Leur fleuve Samt-Laurent. 



A nous ses champs d'azur et ses fraiches 

retraites, 
Les ilots couronnC'S de mourantes aigrettes, 

Les monts audacieux. 
Les aromes piquants que la mer y depose 
Et son grand horizon oil votre ceil se repose 
Comme 1 etoile aux cieux." 

L. J. C. FiSET. 



" Sur ces bords enchantes, notre mere, la 
France, 
A laisse de sa gloire un immortel sillon. 
Precipitant ses flots vers I'oc&an immense, 
Le noble Saint-Laurent redit en cor son 
nom. 

" Salut, 6 ma belle patrie ! 
Salut, 6 bords du Saint-Laurent 
Terre que I'etranger envie, 
Et qu"il regrette en la quittant. 
Heureux qui pent passer sa vie. 



Toujours fidelc a te servir ; 
Et dans tes bras, mere clierie, 
Peut rendre son dernier soupir. 

Salut, 6 ciel de ma patrie I 
Salut, o noble Saint-Laurent I 
Ton uom dans men ame attendrie 
Bepand un parfum enivrant. 
O Canada, fils dc la France, 
Qui te couvrit de ses bienfaits, 
Toi, notre amour, notre esperance. 
Qui pourra toublier jamais ? " 

O. Ce£mazie. 



Cape Rosier, "the Scylla of the St. Lawrence," is 6 M. beyond Cape 
Gaspe, and is the S. portal of the St. Lawrence River, whose mouth at 
this point is 96 M. wide. At the end of the cape is a stone lighthouse 
tower, 112 ft. high, with a fixed light (visible 16 M.) and a fog-horn and 
cannon. The hamlets of Grand Greve, Griffin's Cove, and Cape Rosier 
are in this vicinitj", and are inhabited by French people, who are de- 



248 Routed?, CAPE MAGDELAINE. 

pendent on the fishing-establishment of Wm. Fraing L Co., of the Isle of 
Jersey. 

" The coast between Cape Eosier and Cape Chatte is high and bold, free 
fronfi dangers, and destitute of harbors," and is lined with a majestic wall 
of mountains composed of slate and graywacke. They are covered with 
forests, and afford successions of noble views, sometimes of amphithe- 
atrical coves, sometimes of distant vistas of blue peaks up the long gorges 
of the rivers. 

"How can it be that men inhabit this harsh, arid, rough, almost hateful country, 
•which extends from Cape Chatte to the GasptJ Basin ? One can scarcely imagine. 
Yet, as you see, here and there appear parcels of tilled land, houses scattered along 
the banks, and little churches at -various points." 

" The peninsula of Gaspe, the land's end of Canada towards the E. , from its geo- 
logical formation of shale and limestone, presenting their upturned edges toward 
the sea and dipping inland, forms long ranges of beetling cliffs running down to a 
narrow strip of beach, and affording no resting-place even to the fishermen, except 
where they have been cut down by streams, and present little coves and bays open- 
ing back into deep glens, affording a view of great rolling wooded ridges that stand 
rank after rank behind the great sea-cliff, though with many fine valleys between." 

7 M. N. W. of Cape Eosier the settlement at Griffin's Cove is passed; and 
5 M. farther on is Fox River (Cloridorme), a settlement of 500 persons, with 
one of the I sle-of- Jersey fishing-establishments, a large Catholic church, 
and a court-house. The cod and mackei'el fisheries are followed in the 
adjacent waters, and large American fleets are often seen off the port. 
The grand highway from Quebec ends here, but a rugged road runs down 
to Gaspe in 17 M. The inhabitants are nearly all French. 16 M. farther 
W. is the haven called Great Pond, 24 M. beyond which is Cape Magde- 
laiue (red-and- white revolving light, visible 15 - 20 M.) at the mouth of the 
Eiver Magdelaine, the home of some of the wildest legends of this region. 

" Where is the Canadian sailor, familiar with this coast, who has not heard of the 
plaintive sounds and doleful cries uttered by the Braillard de la Magdelaine ? 
Where would you find a native seaman who would consent to spend a few days by 
himself in this locality, wherein a troubled spirit seeks to make known the torments 
it endures? Is it the soul of a shipwrecked mariner asking for Christian burial for 
its bones, or imploring the prayers of the church for its repose ? Is it the voice of 
the murderer condemned to expiate his crimes on the very spot which witnessed 
its commission ? . . . . For it is well known that Gasp6 wreckers have not always 
contented themselves with robbery and pillage, but have sometimes sought conceal- 
ment and impunity by making away with victims, — convinced that the tomb is 
silent and reveals not its secrets." The Abb6 Ca.«grain attributes these weird 
sounds to the fate of a priest who refused to christen a child who afterwards was 
lost by dying unbaptized. The conscience-stricken priest faded away to a skeleton, 
and the sound of his moaning has ever since been heard off these dark shores. An- 
other legend tells that a terrible shipwreck occurred at this point, and that the only 
soul that reached the shore was a baby boy, who lay wailing on the beach through- 
out the stormy night. " AVhere La Magdelaine runs into the Gulf, horizontal layers 
of limestone, fretted away all around their base by the action of the tides and 
waves, assume the most fantastic shapes, — here representing ruins of Gothic archi- 
tecture, there forming hollow caverns into which the surf rolling produces a moan- 
ing sound, like an unquiet spirit seeking repose." The strange wailing which is 
heard at certain seasons along this shore is otherwise referred to the rush of the 
wind through the pine-trees on the cape, whose trunks grate together with a harsh 
creaking. 



CAPE CHATTE. Route 67. 249 

Pleurese Point is 12 M. from Cape Magdelaine, and is near the remote 
hamlet of Mont Louis. Lines of wild cliffs front the shore for the next 28 
M., to Cape St. Anne, near which is the French Catholic village of St. 
Anne des Monts, which has 250 inhabitants and a consulate of Italy. The 
adjacent waters abound in mackerel, cod, halibut, and herring, and gi-eat 
quantities of salmon and trout are caught in the Eiver St. Anne. The 
stately peaks of the * St. Anne Mountains are seen on the S., com- 
mencing 12 M. S. W. of Cape St. Anne and running in a S. W. course for 
40 M,, nearly parallel with the river and 20-25 M. inland. These moun- 
tains are the most lofty in Canada, and are visible for 80 - 90 M. at sea, 
in clear weather. The chief peak is 14 M. from Cape Chatte, and is 
3,973 ft. high. 

" All those who come to New France know well enough the mountains of Notre 
Dame, because the pilots and sailors being arrived at that part of the great river 
which is opposite to those high mountains, baptize ordinarily for sport the new 
passengers, if they do not turn aside by some present the inundation of this baptism 
which is made to flow plentifully on their heads." (Laxemant, 1648.) 

Cape Chatte is 15 M. N. W. of Cape St. Anne, and sustains a white 
flashing light which is visible for 18 M. 

Cape Chatte was named in honor of the officer who sent out the expedition of 
1603, under Pontgrave and Lescarbot. His style was Eymard de Chaste, Knight 
of Malta, Commander of Lormetan, Grand Master of the Order of St. Lazarus, and 
Governor of Dieppe. 

Somewhere in this broad reach of the river occurred the chivalrous naval battle 
between the English war-vessel Abigail and the French ship of Emery de Caen (sou 
of Lord de la Motte). The Abigail was commanded by Capt. Kirke, and was sailing 
against Tadousac, when she was attacked (June, 1629) by De Caen. A running fight 
of several hours ensued, until a fortunate cannon-shot from the Abigail cut away 
a mast on the French vessel and compelled her to surrender. The loss on each 
ship was considerable. 

The reach of the St. Lawrence next entered is about 35 M. wide, and 
on the N. shore is Point de Monts (see page 233). It is 33 M. from Cape 
Chatte to Matane, in which the steamer passes the hamlets of Dalibaire 
and St. Felicite, In 1688 the Sieur Kiverin established a sedentary fish- 
ery at Matane, devoted to the pursuit of codfish and whales. Sometimes 
as many as 50 whales were seen at one time from the shore. This branch 
of the fisheries has now greatly declined. Matane is a village of 300 in- 
habitants, devoted to fishing and lumbering, and is visited by Canadian 
citizens on account of the facilities for sea-bathing on the fine sandy 
beach. There is also good fishing for trout and salmon on the Matane 
River. The remarkable peaks called the Paps of Matane are to the S.W., 
in the great Gaspesian Avilderness. In clear weather, when a few miles E. 
of Matane, and well out in the river, Mt. Camille may be seen, 40 M. 
distant, S. W. by W. | W., like an island on the remote horizon. 

The shore is now low, rocky, and wooded, and runs S. W. 22 M. to 
Petit Metis, which was populated with Scottish families by its seigneur. 
4 M. from this point is the station of St. Octave, on the Intercolonial Rail- 
way. Metis is a little way W., and is occupied by 250 French Catholics 
11* 



250 Route 67. RIMOUSKL 

and Scotch Presbyterians. It has a long government wharf; and the j 
people are engaged also in the pursuit of black whales, which are sought 
by schooners equipped with harpoons, lances, etc. N. of Metis, across 
the river, is the great peninsula of Manicouagan, at the mouth of the 
rivers Manicouagan and Outarde, abounding in cascades. 

The steamship comes to off Father Point, where there is a lighthouse 
and telegraph-station (for news of the shipping), and a hamlet of 100 in- 
habitants. Here the outward-bound vessels discharge their pilots. Near 
this place are the hamlets of St. Luce and St. Donat, and at St. Flavie, 
15 M. N. E., the Intercolonial Railway reaches the St. Lawrence (see page 
70). A few miles S. E. is ML Camille, which is 2,036 ft. high. Father 
Point {Pointe au Fere) was so named because the priest Henri Nouvel 
wintered there in 1663. Canada geese, ducks, and bi-ant are killed here 
in great numbers during the long easterly storms. 

St. Germain de Rimouski {Hotel St. Laurent; Rimouski Hotel) is 6 M. 
from Father Point, and is an incorporated city, an important station on 
the Intercolonial Railway, and the capital of Rimouski County and of a 
Roman-Catholic diocese. It has 1,200 - 1,500 inhabitants, with a handsome 
cathedral, a Catholic college, convent, episcopal palace, court-house, and 
other public buildings. The Canadian government has built a large and 
substantial wharf out to the deep channel, and a prosperous future is ex- 
pected for the young city. Many summer visitors come to this place, 
attracted by its cool air and fine scenery. 

Rimouski was founded in 1688, and in 1701 a missionary was sent here, who 
founded a parish which has now grown into a strong bisliopric. "Rimouski, the 
future metropolis of the Lower St. Lawrence, a Uttle city full of promise and fur- 
rowed already by the rails of the Intercolonial, will have its harbor of refuge where 
the great ocean-steamers will stop in passing, and will attract all the commerce of 
the immense region of the Metapedia, the future granary of our country." The 
Rimouski River is famous for its abundance of trout. 

Barnaby Island is low and wooded, and 3 M. long, sheltering the harbor of 
Rimouski. It was known by its present name in 1629, when the fleet of the Kirkes 
assembled here. From 1723 to 1767 it was the home of a pious French hermit, who 
avoided women and passed most of his time in his oratory. Some say that he was 
Avreckcd off these shores, and vowed to Heaven to abide here if he was saved ; others, 
that he had been disappointed in love. In his last hours he was visited by people 
from Rimouski, who found him dying, with his faithful dog licking his chilling 
face. 

Bic Island was formerly called Le Pic, but was named St. Jean by Cartier, 
who entered its harbor in 1535, on the anniversary of the decapitation of St. John, 
It was included in the scheme of D'Avaugour and Vauban (in the 17th century) for 
the defence of Canada, and was intended to have been made an impregnable mari- 
time fortress, sheltering a harbor of refuge for the French navy. But this Mont St. 
Michel of the New World never received its ramparts and artillery. The place was 
taken by Wolfe's British fleet of 200 ships, June 18, 1759 ; and when the Trent affair 
threatened to involve the United States and Great Britain in war, in 1861, British 
troops were landed at Bic from the ocean-steamship Persia, and were carried hence 
in sleighs to Riviere du Loup. Near this point is U Islet au Massacre, where, ac- 
cording to tradition, 200 Micmac Indians were once surprised at night by the Iro- 
quois, while slumbering in a cavern. The vengeful enemy silently filled the cave's 
mouth with dry wood and then set it on fire, shooting the unfortunate Micmacs as 
they leaped through the flames. 195 of the latter were slain, and it is claimed that 
their bones strewed the islet until within a few j'ears. 



TROIS PISTOLES. Route 67. 251 

Ste.-Cecile du Bic (two boarding-houses) is a prosperous French vil- 
lage of 600 inhabitants, with a good harbor and a large and ugly church. 
It is 9 ]\I. from Rimouski, and is surrounded by fine scenery. The Bay 
of Bic is "large enough to be majestic, small enough to be overlooked in 
one glance; a shore cut into deep notches, broken with flats, capes, and 
beaches; a background of mountains hewn prodigally from the world's 
material, like all the landscapes of our Canada." The Intercolonial Rail- 
way was carried through this region at a vast expense, and sweeps around 
the flank of the mountain, 200 ft. above the village, affording beautiful 
views. Wonderful mirages are seen off" this port, and out towards Point 
de Monts. The highlands immediately over Bic are nearly 1,300 ft. high; 
and the bay receives two rivers, which descend in cascades and rapids 
from the neighboring gorges. As the steamship passes the lighthouse on 
Biquette Island, the remarkable and varied peaks of the mountains to the 
S. will attract the attention b}^ their fantastic irregularity. Between Bic 
and Trois Pistoles, but not visible from the iMver, are the new French vil- 
lages of St. Fabien, among the mountains; St. Matthieu, with its great 
quarries of red stone for the Intercolonial Railway ; and St. Simon, near a 
pretty highland lake. 

The rocky islets of Rosade are 2 M. off the shore of Notre Dame des Anges, and are 
decorated with a large cross, in memory of a marvellous escape. Some 30 years ago 
the St. Lawrence froze for 6 M. out from the parish, and many hundreds of seals 
•were discovered on the ice. The people gathered and went out to slay these strange 
visitors, but the ice suddenly broke adrift and was whirled away down the stream. 
There appeared no hope of escape for the 40 men on the outer floes, which were 
now J M from the shore. Their families and friends bade them an eternal farewell, 
and the village priests, standing at the water's edge, gave them final absolution la 
preparation for the approaching catastrophe. But even while they were kneeling 
on the ice, a bold mariner launched a tiny skiff from the shore and crossed the 
widening belt of tumultuous waters, touched the crumbling edges of the floes, and, 
after many trips back and forth, succeeded in landing every one of the men upon 
the isle of Rosade. Thence they passed easily to the mainland, and afterwards 
erected a cross on Rosade, as a token of their gratitude. 

Trois Pistoles (two good hotels) is a thriving village of 650 inhab- 
itants, situated inside of Basque Island (5 M. from the Rosades), and near 
valuable deposits of limestone. There are two Catholic churches here, 
whose construction involved a litigious contest which is still remembered 
in Lower Canada. The beauty of the marine scenery in this vicinity has 
induced several Quebec gentlemen to build summer cottages here. 

There is a well-founded tradition that in the year 1700 a traveller rode up to the 
bank of the then unsettled and unnamed river and asked the Norman fisherman, 
who was tending his nets near his rude hut, what he would charge to ferry him 
across. "Trois pistoles" (three ten-franc pieces), said the fisher. "What is the 
name of this river ? " asked the traveller. " It has no name ; it will be baptized at 
a later day." " Well, then," said the traveller, "name it Trois Pistoles.'''' The 
river is now famous for its fine trout-fishing. 

" That portion of the St. Lawrence extending between the Saguenay River and 
Goose Island is about 20 M. wide. The spring tides rise and fall a distance of 18 ft. 
The water is salt, but clear and cold, and the channel very deep. Here may be seen 
abundantly the black seal, the white porpoise, and the black whale." The white 
porpoise yields an oil of the best quality, and its skin makes good leather. 



252 Route 67. KAMOUKASKA. 

The Gulf-Ports steamship does not stop between Father Point and 
Quebec, but the villages described in this itinerary may be visited from 
Quebec ; those on the S. shore by railway, and St. Paul's Bay, Murray 
Bay, Riviere du Loup, and Eimouski by river-steamers. The N. shore 
from Cape Tourmente to the Saguenay is described in Route 72. 

The vessel steams up by Green Island, which is 6 - 7 M. long, and shel- 
ters the large manufacturing village of Isle Verte, whence fine butter is 
sent to Quebec. On the r. is Eed Island, with its tall stone lighthouse, off 
which is a lightship. Cacouna and Riviere du Loup (see Route 72) are 
next passed, on the 1., and the vessel runs W. with the three steep islets 
called the Brandy Pots {Pots-a-V eau-de-vie) on the r. The S. islet bears 
a fixed light; the N. islet is 150 ft. high, of vesiculated conglomerate in 
which almond-shaped bits of quartz are imbedded. In war-time merchant- 
ships wait off the Brandy Pots for their convo3dng frigates. N. of these 
ii^lets is Hare Island, which is about 10 M. long, and has extensive salt 
marshes, on which herds of cattle are kept. On the 1. are now seen the 
five remarkable islets called The Pilgrims, about 1^ M. from the S. shore 
and 42 M. in aggregate length. The Long Pilgrim is 300 ft. high and par- 
tially wooded, and is marked by a lighthouse, 180 ft. above the river. 
The Kamouraska Islands are 6 M. farther W., and over them is seen the 
pretty village of Kamouraska {Albion Hotel), Avith its great Church of 
St. Louis and Congregational Convent. The river-water at this point is as 
salt as the sea, and the village was the chief summer resort on the St. 
LaAvrence before Cacouna arose. 

" Who does not know Kamouraska ? "Who does not know that it is a charming 
village, bright and picturesque, bathing its feet in the crystal of the waters of the 
river like a naiad, and coqiiettishly viewing the reflections of its two long ranges of 
white houses, .... so near the river that from all the windows the great waves may 
be contemplated and their grand voices heard ? On all sides, except towards the S., 
the horizon extends as far as the e3e can reach, and is only bounded by the vast blue 
curtain of the Laurentides. At the N. E. the eye rests on a group of verdant isles, 

like a handful of emeralds dropped by the angel of the sea These isles are the 

favorite resort of the strangers who visit Kamouraska. There they fish, or bathe, 
or seek other amusements. Le piqiie-nique is much in vogue there, and the truest 
joys are felt." 

St. Paschal (700 inhabitants) is 5 M. from Kamouraska, on the Grand Trunk 
Eailway. 

" Bel en droit, Saint-Paschal, par sa croupe onduleuse, 
Ses couteaux, ses vallons, sa route sinueuse ! 
C-est la Suisse ou I'Auvergne avec leurs gais chalets, 
Leurs monts, leurs pres en pente et leurs jardins coquets." 

Beyond Kamouraska the steamer passes Cape Diable, and on the N. 
shore, 22 M. distant, are the bold mountains about Mun*ay Bay (see 
Route 72). On the level plains to the S. is seen the tall Church o/ St. 
Denis, with its attendant village ; and beyond Point Orignaux is the vil- 
lage of Riviere Quelle, famous for its porpoise-fisheries. Near this point 
is the quaint Casgrain manor-house, now over a centuiy old. 

This parish is named for Madam Houel, wife of Comptroller-General Houel, who 
was captured here by Indians in the 17th century. Near the beach is a rock which 



ST. ANNE DE LA POCATIERE. Route 67. 253 

bears the plain impress of three snow-shoes, and formerly had the marks of human 
feet and hands. In 1690 the priest of Riviere Quelle led his parishioners, and drove 
back the New-Englauders of Sir William Phipps's fleet. Back among the hills are 
the hamlets of St. Onesime and St. Pacome. 

St. Anne de la Pocatiere (two hotels) is a large and prosperous town, 
72 M. below Quebec, with 3,000 inhabitants, a weekly paper {La Gazette 
des Campagnes), and a convent. "Nature has given to St. Anne charm- 
ing shores, laden with foliage and with melody, ravishing points of view, 
and verdant thickets, fitted for places of meditation." St. Anne's College 
is a stately pile of buildings with pleasant surroundings and a sumptuous 
chapel. It has 30 professors (ecclesiastics) and 230 students, and is main- 
tained in a high state of efficiency. The parks cover several acres, and 
the museum is well supplied. St. Anne's Agricultural School and Model- 
Farm is connected with the college, and has 5 professors (zootechny, rural 
law, etc. ). The view from the dome of the college is of great extent and 
beauty. 

As the steamer passes St. Anne the frowning mass of Mt. !Eboulements 
is seen on the N. shore. A few miles beyond St. Anne the hamlet of St. 
Jtoch-des-Aulnaies is passed, on the 1., 9nd still farther to the W. is St. 
Jean-Port -Joli, a pretty little village about which is laid the scene of 
De Gaspe's popular romance, "Les Anciens Canadiens." The Isle aux 
Coudres is far away towards the N. shoi-e. The course is laid in by the 
islet called the Stone Pillar, on which there is a lighthouse, and 14 M. 
farther W. is the insulated rock of the Wood Pillar. The large and pros- 
perous village of L'Islet (1,000 inhabitants) is seen on the 1. Goose Island 
is passed on the r., and is connected with Crane Island {L'Tsle aux Grues) 
by a long alluvial meadow, which produces rich hay, the total length 
being 11 M. Fine sporting is enjoyed here in the spring and autumn, 
when great flocks of snipe, plover, and wild geese visit these shores for a 
breeding-place. There is a settlement of about 150 persons on Crane 
Island, whence are obtained noble views of Cape Tourmente. 

During the French regime these islands (Les Isles de Ste. -Marguerite) were erected 
into a seigniory and granted to an officer of France. He built a massive stone house 
on Crane Island, and was afterwards kept there, in rigorous captivity, by Madame 
de Granville. She claimed that she was his sister, and that he was insane ; but this 
report was doubted by the people of the S. shore, and the island was regarded with 
dread. She kept him in close durance for many years, until at last he died. 

Beyond the S. shore village of Cap St. Ignace (400 inhabitants) the 
steamer passes St. Thomas, the capital of Montmagny County. This town 
has 1,650 inhabitants, and carries on a large local trade. The College 
Montmagny is located here, and there is also a convent and a large and 
conspicuous church. The broad white band of a cascade is seen at the 
foot of the cove, where the Eiviere du Sud falls 30 ft. On the r., beyond 
St. Thomas, is seen a cluster of picturesque islets, over which the massive 
Cape Tourmente frowns. 



ilo-l: J^out^er. GKossF. isle. 

'• At length tht\Y spy hii^^ l\nir\uemv, sul\<n\-l\r\nvvvU 
.KAtho his \v»Ul foivlu\-4kl in a >\Hssiivjr cloud ; 
The I'itan ot" the lorty o;ny\< that gU^in 
111 Uhtj: sucvvssiou dowu the mighty strvvam ; 
When, lo 1 Orltvins oiiu^rp:'^* to the sijilu. 
Aud \vvH\l* and iiux^doW tiv>at in U(.|uid lijtht ; 
Rude >Jatnre doffs her sa>-Age mountain dre^ss, 
And ail her sternness welts to loveliutNSS. 
On either haud stiv^teh tields of richest grt»en, 
AVith jrUtteriug viUag*;> spirt^s and givvt^ Wtwet^n, 
And snow-whit© eots adorn the ft>rtile jJaiu.'' 

Grcsse Isle I'ovmerly nppei*ti\iuod to the Vi-*ivlinos, and is 2^ M. long. 
On its irnxywnoko k\lg^^$ is the groat Quanintino of Canada, whero enn- 
grant-ships aiv detained nntil thoronghly inspected and purified. Tho 
island is a vast tomb, so many have been the emigrants wlio have reached 
these shoi\^s only to die, poisoned in the filthy and crowded sJiips, poorly 
fcvl and i-aiviy ministeitxl nnto. The Qxianuitine-station is occupied by 
inevlical and police lorccs, and is under a rigid code of rules. 

The next town is Bcrthitr, an ancient Fivnch parish of 400 inhabitants, 
"\V. of which is Bellechasse Island, composed of high, steep, and bare gi-ay- 
Avacke rocks. Ou the X. ai-e Keanx Island (150 it. high) and Madame 
Island, both of which are covered with tives. .S/. Valttr is beyond Belle- 
chasse, and is a place of 200 inhabitants, noax- which lai-ge deposits of bog 
iivn-ore ha^•e been found. The Isle of Orleans (see Koute 71) is now 
apprvvaohed. on the r.. and ^ver it is seen the peak of Mt. St. Anne. 
}!\early opposite St. John ^on the Orleans shore) is »S*, Jl/ToA^/, a himber- 
working town of 700 inhabitants, in whose spacious church are some 
paintings for which a high \-alue is claimed: St. Clara, hy Munllo{f) ; 
St. Jerome, Bouchi^r : the Crucifixion, JRomamUi : the Death of the Vir- 
gin, 6<>ul^ : St. Bruno, Fhtlipji^ d^ ChamjHitrHe : the Flagelhition, Challji, 
6 M. beyond St. Michel is Beaumont, a village of 600 inhabitants, op^x)- 
site Patrick's Hole, on the Orleans shore. The settlements now grow 
thicker on either shore, and in about 6 M. the steamship passes the W. 
end of the island of Orleans, and opens the grandest ** view on the route. 
On the r. is the majestic Montmorenci Fall, on the 1. the rugged heights 
of Point Levi and St. Joseph, and in fi\>nt the stately cliiis of Quebec, 
croAvaed with batteries, and dowering into spires. 













^- 














QTJEISEC. 

1 Cat/wlic Calhtdial 3'3. 

2 (hi^lic<jr) -' 11.1, 

3 WedeifOfi i/'han:hi Ko. 

4 Prf.ihjlfviaii ". F.4, 

QSf..MMeu.'...r m. 

7 S/, Smwea/:. .'.'.....:. ./\.2. 

HH/.Itoeh ;'. £2. 

9 Notiv Dnmf des 

yictoircs T'.'l. 

11 Semijiarr K.3, 

\l Laval lfnmmf>f_..^,^.^. 
13 IIolelDmi Cc/mni .Yi%. 

Wlbmlw^.j: ..K.-1. 

15 Grm/Suier.iL D.3. 

IG Cmu/m/AmiL.:'^ C.2. 

17 (rm^i-al Ht/spHaL B.2. 

18 Maihu:._^.iL C.l. 

19 Mftmn- Oil/njf. E.3. 

20 HwbamaitHtnsct..^.^. 

21 Qurtnoirsa...... E.-I'. 

22 &mmLanMDep. E.l. 

•I'MRffh School E.i. 

21 fmmwi'a (/arJen^,,,.JR,^. 

25 GislomflfiiMc F.3. 

26 Champhm }McL._.¥A, 

Hi J«U B.S. 

28 Wolfe's Mfiiamenl.)^!^. 
H^ Jiiumnn fmsuliiL: ..^!'h. 

"i^St.MvsGau ..D.3. 

32 7>^:vc^«. _«..:, ..E.E1. 
VSlhpf...u^ K.3. 

3t ralace....:... -E.3. 

35 Si, Loidsmtel E.4. 

36 Statiarfin// . ■■_ E.3. 

31 ■JrsuilBtdliiiriq.% . . E .ti . 
"^ PosI flmoi.'. E^i. 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 255 



68. ftuebec. 

Arrival. — If the traveller has much baggage, it is best to take a carriage or 
the hotel omnibus to the Upper Town. The cnleche is not adapted for carrying lug- 
gage. 

Hotels. — The * St. Louis Hotel is a large house near the Durham Terrace, 
kept by Willis Russell, an American gentleman. It accommodates 500 guests, and 
charges $ 2.50-3.50 a day. The Russell House is a large modern hotel, near the St. 
Louis, and under the same management. Its terms are lower than those of the St. 
Louis. The Albion Hotel is on Palace St., and charges $2.50 a day. Henchey's 
Hotel (on St. Anne St., opposite the Anglican Cathedral) is quiet and moderate, for 
gentlemen travelling en gargon. The Mountain-Hill House, on Mountain- Hill St., 
and Blanchard's Hotel, in the Lower Town, opposite Notre Dame des Victoires, are 
second-class houses, charging about $ 1.50 a day. 

There are several good boarding-houses in the Upper Town, among which are 
those of the Misses Leonard, 3 St. Louis St. ; Mrs. McDonell, 12 St. Louis St ; Miss 
Lane, 44 St. Anne St. ; Mrs. Boyce, 1 Garden St. Comfortable quarters may be ob- 
tained at these houses for about $ 10 a week. 

Carriages in every variety may be procured at the livery-stables, and large 
numbers of them are kept at the stands near the St. Louis Hotel, in front of the Ca- 
thedral, and beyond St. John's Gate. The carriages in the Lower Town are less ele- 
g-int and much less expensive than those within the walls. The rates for excursions 
in the suburbs in summer are from $3 to $4 for 1-3 persons (to Montmorenci 
Falls, Lorette, Cap Rouge, etc.). During the autumn the rates are reduced. The 
caZecAe-drivers of the Lower Town usually demand § 2 for carrying 1-2 persons to 
the outer suburban resorts. The caliche is a singular and usually very shabby- 
looking vehicle, perched on two high wheels, with the driver sitting on a narrow 
ledge in front. It is drawn by a homely but hardy little horse, and is usually driven 
by a French Canadian, who urges the horse forward by the sharp dissyllabic cry, 
*'■ Marche-donc ! " 

Horse-Cars run between St. Ours, St. Sauveur, and the Champlain Market, 
every 15 minutes, traversing St. Joseph, St. Paul, and St. Peter Sts. The fare 
is 5c. 

Reacling-Iloonis. — The elegant library of the Quebec Literary- and His- 
torical Society (in Morrin College) is courteously opened to the visits of strangers. 
The Library of Parliament is also accessible, and is finely arranged. The Institut 
Canadien is at 11 St. John St., and the Y. M. C. Association has rooms at 24 Fa- 
brique St. (near the Cathedral). 

Post-Office at the corner of Buade and Du Fort Sts. According to the new 
rules of the Canadian postal service, stamps are not sold at the post-oflfices, but are 
kept on sale by the booksellers. 

The most attractive shops are on Fabrique and St. John Sts. , and in the vicinity 
of the French Cathedral. 

Railways. —The Grand Trunk Railway has its terminal station at Point Levi, 
317 M. from Portland, 425 M. from Boston, and 586 M. from New York. Passengers 
take the Grand Trunk ferry-steamer near the Champlain Market. The North Shore 
Railway is now being built from Quebec to Montreal along the N. shore of the St. 
Lawrence. The Quebec & Gosford Railway is of most primitive construction, and 
runs occasional trains from its terminal station in the Banlieue for 20-25 M. up the 
valley of the St. Charles. 

Steamships. — The steamships of the Allan Line leave every Saturday for Liv- 
erpool (fares, § 80, $70, and § 25) ; also, once weekly in summer, to Glasgow (fares, 
$60 and $24). The Dominion Line sends a weekly steamship to Liverpool (fare, 
^60 and $24), and the Temperley Line despatches a fortnightly steamship to Lon- 
don (fares, $60 and $24). The vessels of the Quebec & Gulf Ports S. S. Co. leave 
every week for Father Point, Gasp6, Perc6, the Bay of Chaleur, the Miramichi ports, 
Shediac, and Pictou (see page 239). Steamers for the Lower St. Lawrence (see 
Route 72) and for the Saguenay River (see Route 73) leave several times a week. 
The Porfne;// leaves on Tuesday and Saturday for Cap Sant6, Platon, Portneuf, 
St. Emelie, and St. Jean Deschaillons. The Montmorenci leaves semi-weekly for 
Chateau Richer, St. Famille, St. Anne, and Grande Riviere. Steamers run to the 
I.'^le of Orleans three times daily, and the Point-Levi ferry-boats cross the river 
every 15 minutes. 



256 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

Quebec, "the GFbraltar of America," and the second citv in the Do- 
minion of Canada, is situated on a rocky promontory at the confluence of 
the St. Lawrence and St. Charles Rivers, ISO M. from Montreal, and over 
400 M. from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It has about 75,000 inhabitants, 
■with 6 banks, 6 Masonic lodges, and numerous newspapers in the French 
and the English languages. The chief business of the city is in the hand- 
ling and exportation of lumber, of which $5-7,000,000 worth is sent 
away annually. There are long lines of coves along the St. Lawrence 
shore, above the cit}-, arranged for the reception and protection of the 
vast rafts which come down from the northern forests. A very consid- 
erable export trade in grain is also done here, and the various supplies of 
the populous counties to the X. and E. are drawn from this point. Ship- 
building is a leading industry, and many vessels of the largest size are 
launched every year from the shipyards on the St. Charles. Of late years 
several important manufactories have been established in the Lower Town, 
and the cit].- is expected to derive great benefit from the convergence here 
of several lines of railway, connecting with the transatlantic steamships, 
and making it a depot of immigration and of freighting. The introduc- 
tion of an abundant and powerful water supply from Lake St. Charles and 
the establishment of a fire-brigade and alarm-telegraph have preserved the 
city, during late years, from a recurrence of the terrible fires with which 
it was formerly scourged. 

Quebec is built nearly in the form of a triangle, bounded by the two 
rivers and the Plains of Abraham, and is divided into the Upper Town 
and Lower Town, the former standing on an enwalled and strongly forti- 
fied bluff 350 ft. high, while the latter is built on the contracted strands 
between the cliffs and the rivers. The streets are narrow, crooked, and 
often very steep, and the houses are generally built of cut stone, in a style 
of severe simplicity. It is the most quaint, picturesque, and mediaeval- 
looking city in America, and is surrounded by beautiful suburbs. 

" Take mountain and plain, sinuous river, and broad, tranquil ■watei-s, stately 
ship and tiny boat, gentle hill and shady valley, bold headland and rich, fniitfiil 
fields, frowning battlement and cheerful villa, glittering dome and rural spire, flow- 
ery garden and sombre forest, — group them all into the choicest picture of ideal 
beautv vour fancv can create, arch it over with a cloudless sky, light it up with a 
radiant 'sun, and "lest the sheen should be too dazzhng, hang a veil of lighted haze 
OTer all, to soften the lines and perfect the repose, — you will then have seen Quebec 
on this September morning." (Euot WiKBrRTOX.) 

" Quebec recalls Angouleme to my mind: in the upper city, stairways, narrow 
streets, ancient houses on the rerge of the cUff: in the lower city, the new fortunes, 
commerce, workmen ; — in both, many shops and much activity. "" (M. Sa>"d.) 

' ' The scenic beauty of Quebec has been the theme of general eulogy. The majestic 
appearance of Cape Diamond and the fortifications, — the cupolas and minarets, like 
those of an Eastern city, blazing and sparkling in the sun, — the loveliness of the 
panorama, — the noble basin, hke a sheet of purest silver, in which might ride with 
safety a hundred sail of the line, — the graceful meandering of the river St. Charles, 
— the numerous village spires on either side of the St. Lawrence, — the fertile fields 
dotted with innumerable cottages, the abodes of a rich and moral peasantry, — the 
r'istant Falls of Montmorenci, — the park-like scenery of Point Levi, — the beauteous 
Isle of Orleans, —and more distant still, the frowning Cape Tourmente, and the lofty 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 257 

range of purple mountains of the most picturesque forms which bound the prospect, 
unite to form a coup d'ceH, which, without exaggeration, is scarcely to be surpassed 
in an J- part of the world/" (Hawkes'S. ) 

" I rubbed mj' ej'es to be sure that I was in the nineteenth century, and was not 
enteriDg one of those portals which sometimes adorn the frontispiece of old black- 
letter Tolumes. I thought it would be a good place to read Froissart-s Chronicles, 
It was such a reminiscence of the Middle Ages as Scott's novels. 

" Too much has not been said about the scenery of Quebec. The fortifications of 
Cape Diamond are omnipresent. You travel 10, 20, 30 M. up or down the river's 
banks, you ramble 15 M. among the hills on either side, and then, when you have 
long since forgotten them, perchance slept on them by the way, at a turn of the 

road or of your body, there they are still, with their geometry against the sky 

No wonder if Jaques Cartier's pilot exclaimed in Norman-French, Que bee' ( ' What 
a peak I ') when he saw this cape, as some suppose. Every modern traveller invol- 
untarily uses a similar expression The view from Cape Diamond has been 

compared by European travellers with the most remarkable views of a similar kind 
in Europe, such as from Edinburgh Castle, Gibraltar, Cintra, and others, and pre- 
ferred by many. A main peculiarity in this, compared with other views which I 
have beheld, is that it is from the ramparts of a fortified city, and not from a soli- 
tary and majestic river cape alone that this view is obtained I still remember 

the harbor far beneath me, sparkling like silver in the sun, — the answering head- 
lands of Point Levi on the S. E. , — the frowning Cape Tourmente abruptlj- bounding 
the seaward view far in the N. E. , — the villages of Lorette and Charlesbourg on the 
N., — and farther W. the distant Tal Cartier, sparkUng with white cottages, hardly 
removed by distance through the clear air, — not to mention a few bine mountains 
along the horizon in that direction. You look out from the i-amparts of the citadel 
beyond the frontiers of civilization. Y'onder small group of hills, according to the 
guide-book, forms ' the portal of the wilds which are trodden only b}^ the feet of the 
Indian hunters as far as Hudson's Bay.' " (Thoreau.) 

" There is no city in America more famous in the annals of history than Quebec, 
and few on the continent of Europe more picturesquely situated. Whilst the svu:- 
rounding scenery reminds one of the unrivalled views of the Bosphorus, the airy site 
of the citadel and town calls to mind Innspruck and Edinburgh. Quebec may be best 
described by supposing that an, ancient Norman fortress of two centuries ago had 
been encased in amber, transported by magic to Canada, and placed on the summit 
of Cape Diamond." 

" Quebec, at least for an American city, is certainly a very peculiar place. A mili- 
tary town, containing about 20,000 inhabitants ; most compactly and permanently 
built, — stone its sole material ; environed, as to its most important parts, by walls 
and gates, and defended by numerous heavy cannon ; . . . . founded upon a rock, 
and in its highest parts overlooking a great extent of countrj- ; 3 - 400 miles from 
the ocean, in the midst of a great continent, and yet displaying fleets of foreign mer- 
chantmen in its fine, capacious bay, and showing all the bustle of a crowded sea- 
port ; its streets narrow, populous, and winding up and down almost mountainous 
decUvities ; situated in the latitude of the finest parts of Europe, exhibiting in its 
environs the beauty of a European capital, and yet in winter smarting with the cold 
of Siberia ; governed by a people of different language and habits from the mass of 
the population, opposed in religion, and yet leaving that population without taxes, 
and in the enjoyment of every privilege, civil and religious : such are the prominent 
features which strike a stranger in the city of Quebec. A seat of ancient Dominion, 
— now hoary with the lapse of more than two centuries, — formerly the seat of a 
French empire in the west, — lost and won by the blood of gallant armies, and of 
illustrious commanders, — throned on a rock, and defended by all the proud defiance 
of war ! Who could approach such a city without emotion ! Who in Canada has 
not longed to cast his eyes on the water-girt rocks and towers of Quebec." (Peof. 
Silliman; in 1820.) 

" Few cities oSer so many striking contrasts as Quebec. A fortress and a com- 
mercial city together, built upon the summit of a rock like the nest of an eagle, 
■while her vessels are everywhere wrinkling the face of the ocean ; an American city 
inhabited by French colonists, governed by England, and garrisoned by Scotch 
regiments ; a city of the Middle Ages by most of its ancient institutions, while it is 
subject to all the combinations of modern constitutional government ; a European 
city by its civilization and its habits of refinement, and still close by the remnants 
of the Indian tribes and the barren mts. of the North ; a city with about the same 



258 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

latitude as Paris, while successively combining tlie torrid climate of southern regions 
with the severities of an hyperborean winter ; a city at the same time Catholic and 
Protestant, where the labors of our (French) missions are still uninterrupted along- 
side of the undertakings of the Bible Society, and where the Jesuits, driven out of 
our own country, find refuge under the aegis of British Puritanism." (X.Marmier's 
Lettres sur PAmeriqiie, 1860.) 

" Leaving the citadel, we are once more in the European Middle Ages. Gates and 
posterns, cranky steps that lead up to lofty, gabled houses, with sharp French roofs 
of burnished tin, like those of Liege ; processions of the Host ; altars decked with 
flowers ; statues of the Virgin ; sabots ; blouses ; and the scarlet of the British lines- 
man, — all these are seen in narrow streets and markets that are graced with many 
a Cotentin lace cap, and all within 40 miles of the down-east, Yankee State of Maine. 

It is not far from New England to Old France There has been no dying out 

of the race among the French Canadians. They number twenty times the thousands 
that they did 100 years ago. The American soil has left their physical type, re- 
ligion, language, and laws absolutely untouched. They herd together in their 
rambling villages, dance to the fiddle after mass on Sundays, — as gayly as once did 
their Norman sires, — and keep up the fleur-de-lys and the memory of Montcalm. 
More French than the French are the Lower Canada hahitans. The pulse-beat of the 
continent finds no echo here." (Sir Charles DaKE.) 

' ' Curious old Quebec ! of all the cities of the continent of America the most 
quaint I It is a peak thickly populated I a gigantic rock, escarped, echeloned, and 
at the same time smoothed off to hold firmly on its summit the houses and castles, 
although according to the ordinary laws of matter they ought to fall off like a bur- 
den placed on a camel's back without a fastening. Yet the [houses and castles hold 
there as if they were nailed down. At the foot of the rock some feet of land have 
been reclaimed from the river, and that is for the streets of the Lower Town. Que- 
bec is a dried shred of the Middle Ages, hung high up near the North Pole, far from 
the beaten paths of the European tourists, .... a curiosity without parallel on 
this side of the ocean. We traversed each street as we would have turned the leaves 
of a book of engravings, containing a new painting on each page The local- 
ity ought to be scrupulously preserved antique. Let modern progress be carried 
elsewhere ! When Quebec has taken the pains to go and perch herself away up 
near Hudson's Bay, it would be cruel and unfitting to dare to harass her with new 
ideas, and to speak of doing away with the narrow and tortuous streets that charm 
all travellers, in order to seek conformity with the fantastic ideas of comfort in 
vogue in the 19th century." (Henry Ward Beecher.) 

" On I'a dit, Quebec est un promontoire, c'est avant tout une forteresse remarqua- 
ble. La citadelle s'eleve au-dessus de la ville et mire dans les eaux du fleuve ses 
cr^neaux brants. Le voyageur s'tJtonne, apres avoir admire les bords verdoyants et 
fleuris du Saint-Laurent, les forets aux puissantes ramures pleines de mysteres et 
d'ombre, les riantes vallees pleines de bruits et de rayons, de rencontrer tout i coup 
rette ville qui semble venir d'Europe et qui serait nioins etrange sur les bords du 
Rhin aux dramatiques legendes. Mais Quebec n'est pas une ville ou I'etranger vienne 

se disti-aire et chercher d'oubli un theatre a grands luxes, a grands spectacles 

O'est peut-etre la seule vUle du monde oii les gens aient droit de se plaindre et oil 
ils ne se plaignent pas. J'ai ecrit que Quebec est une forteresse remarquable ; 
elle eleve son front superbe et se cambre avec fierte dans sa robe de pierre. Elle a 
conserve un air des temps chevaleresques, elle a soutenu des si; ges, elle a re(ju son 
bapteme du feu. En longeant ces vieux murs, en admirant cette forteresse elevce 
comme un nid d'aigle sur un roc so\ircilleux, on se croirait dans une ville du moyen 
&ge, an temps des factions et des guerres civiles, une de ces viUes accoutumees aux 
bruits des armes, aux fanfares et aux hymnes guerriers, mais tout est silencieux dans 
la nuit sereine, et vous n'entendez meme pas le pace cadence d'une sentinelle. 
Dans cette ville et aux alentours, que d'evenements out ete accompli ! Quelle lutte 
pleine de poesie heroique ! Que de vicissitudes ! et quel courage ! En quelque lieu 
que vous alliez, a la basse-viile, sur le chemin Saint-Louis ou Sainte-Foye, sur les 
rives de la riviere Saint-Charles, tout respire un parfum historique, tout parle a vos 
yeux, tout a une voix qui exprime quelque chose de grand et de triste, et les pierrea 
memes scut autour de vous comme les fautomes qui reflechisseut le passe." 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 259 

The Durham Terrace is on the riverward edge of the Upper Town, and 
stands on the buttresses and platform formerly occupied by the Chateau 
of St. Louis, which was built by Champlain in 1620. The old Chateau 
was a massive stone structure, 200 ft. long, used for a fortress, prison, and 
governor's palace, and it stood until 1834, when it was ruined by fire. 
The terrace is 200 ft. above the river, and commands a * view of surpass- 
ing beauty. Immediately below are the sinuous streets of the Lower 
Town, with its wharves projecting into the stream. On one side are the 
lofty fortified bluffs of Point Levi, and on the other the St. Charles River 
winds away down its peaceful valley. The white houses of Beauport 
stretch off to the vicinity of the Montmorenci Falls, while beyond are seen 
the farms of L' Ange Gardien, extending towards the heights of St. Fereol. 
Vessels of all classes and sizes are anchored in the broad basin and the 
river, and the rich and verdant Isle of Orleans is in mid-stream below. 
Beyond and over all are the bold peaks of the Laurentian range, with Cape 
Tourmente towering over the river far in the distance. The Terrace is 
the favorite promenade of the citizens, and presents a pleasant scene in the 
late afternoon or on pleasant Sundays. At the upper end of the Terrace 
is a plain stone structure called the Old Chateau (built in 1779, for the 
British governors), which is now occupied by the Laval Normal and Model 
School (5 professors). In its gateway is a large stone bearing carvings of 
a Maltese cross and the date 1647, done by order of Gov. Montmagny, a 
Knight of Malta, in 1647. 

" There is not in the world a nobler outlook than that from the Terrace at Que- 
bec. You stand upon a rock overhanging city and river, and look down upon the 
guard-ships' masts. Acre upon acre of timber comes floating down the stream 
above the city, the Canadian boat-son^s just reaching you upon the heights ; and 
beneath you are fleets of great ships, English, German, French, and Dutch, embark- 
ing the timber from the floating docks. The Stars and Stripes are nowhere to be 
seen." (Sir Charles Dilke.) 

" On a summer evening, when the Terrace is covered with loungers, and when 
Point Levi is sprinkled with lights and the Lower Town has illuminated its narrow 
streets and its long dormer-windows, while the lively murmur of business is ascend- 
ing and the eye can discern the great shadows of the ships beating into port, the 
scene is one of marvellous animation. It is then, above all, that one is struck with 
the resemblance between Quebec and the Euroi^ean cities ; it might be called a city 
of France or Italy transplanted; the physiognomy is the same, and daylight is 
needed to mark the alteration of features produced by the passage to America." 

" At a later era, when, under the protection of the French kings, the Provinces 
had acquired the rudiments of military strength and power, the Castle of St. Louis 
was remarkable as having been the site whence the French governors exercised au 
immense sovereignty, extending from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, along the shores of 
that noble river, its magnificent lakes, and down the course of the Mississippi to its 
outlet below New Orleans. The banner which first streamed from the battlements 
of Quebec was displayed from a chain of forts which protected the settlements 
throughout this vast extent of country, keeping the English Colonies in constant 
alarm, and securing the fidelity of the Indian nations. During this period the coun- 
cil chamber of the castle was the scene of many a midnight vigil, many a long delib- 
eration and deep-laid project, to free the continent from the intrusion of the ancient 
rival of France, and assert throughout the supremacy of the Gallic lily. At another 
period, subsequent to the surrender of Quebec to the British arms, and until the 
recognition of the independence of the United States, the extent of empire of which 
the Castle of Quebec was the principal seat comprehended the whole American con- 
tinent north of Mexico." (H.\WK1NS.) 



260 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

The Anglican Cathedral occupies the site of the ancient Recollet Con- 
vent and gardens, and is a plain and massive building, 135 ft. long, with 
a spire 152 ft. high. It was built by the British government in 1803-4, 
and received its superb communion-service, altar-cloths, and books as a 
present from King George III. There is a chime of 8 bells in the tower, 
which makes pleasant music on Sundays ; and the windows are of rich 
stained glass. The interior is plain and the roof is supported on Corinthian 
pillars and pilasters, while over the chancel hang the old Crimean colors 
of the 69th Regiment of the British arm}'. Under the altar lie the remains 
of Charles Lennox, Duke of Richmond, Lennox, and Aubigny, and Gov- 
ernor-General of Canada, who died of hydrophobia in 1819. There are 
numerous mural monuments in the cathedral, and in the chancel are the 
memorials to the early Anglican Bishops of Quebec, Jacob Mountain and 
Charles James Stewart. The former consists of a bust of the Bishop, 
alongside of which is a statue of Religion, both in relief, in white marble, 
on a background of black marble. 

Dr. Mountain was in the presence of King George, when he expressed a 
doubt as to whom he should appoint as bishop of the new See of Quebec. 
Said the doctor, " If your Majesty had faith, there would be no difficult}-." 
"How so? " said the king. Mountain answered, "If you had faith, you 
would say to this Mountain, Be thou removed into that See, and it would 
be done." It was. 

Between the cathedral and the Durham Terrace is a pretty little park 
called the Place d* Amies, beyond which are the ruins of the court-house, 
which was i-ecently destroyed by fire. Beyond the court-house (on St. 
Louis St.) is the Masonic Hall, opposite which are the old-time buildings 
of the St. Louis Hotel and the Commissariat and CroAvn Lands Depart- 
ments. The latter is known as the Kent House, from the fact that 
Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent (father of Queen Victoria), dwelt here 
during his long sojourn at Quebec. Opposite the St. Louis Hotel is a 
quaint little building (now used as a barber-shop), in which Montcalm 
held his last council of war. St. Louis St. runs out through the ramparts, 
traversing a quiet and solidly built quarter, and is prolonged beyond the 
walls as the Grand AUee. 

The * Market Square is near the centre of the Upper Town, and pre- 
sents a cvirious and interesting appearance on market mornings, when the 
French peasantry bring in their farm-produce for sale. 

" A few steps had brought them to the market-square in front of the cathedral, 
where a little belated traffic still lingered in the few old peasant-women hovering 
over baskets of such fruits and vegetables as had long been out of season in the 
States, and the housekeepers and servants cheapening these wares. A sentry moved 
mechanically up and down before the high portal of the Jesuit Barracks, over the 
arch of which were still the letters I. II. S. carved long ago on the keystone ; and 
the ancient edifice itself, with its yellow stucco front and its grated windows, had 
every right to be a monastery turned barracks in France or Italy. A row of quaint 
stone houses — inns and shops — formed the upper side of the square, while the 
modern buildings of the Rue Fabrique on the lower side might serve very well for 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 261 

that show of improvp.ment which deepens the sentiment of the neighboring antiquity 
and decay in Latin towns. As for the cathedral, which faced the convent from 
across the square, it was' as cold and torpid a bit of Renaissance as could be found 
in Rome itself. A red-coated soldier or two passed through the square ; three or 
four neat little French policemen lounged about in blue uniforms and flaring 
havelocks; some walnut-faced, blue-eyed old citizens and peasants sat upon the 
thresholds of the row of old houses and gazed dreamily through the smoke of their 
pipes at the slight stir and glitter of shopping about the fine stores of the Rue 
Fabrique. An air of serene disoccupation pervaded the place, with which the 
drivers of the long rows of calashes and carriages in front of the cathedral did not 
discord. Whenever a stray American wandered into the square, there was a wild 
flight of these drivers towards him, and his person was lost to sight amidst their 
pantomime. They did not try to underbid each other, and they were perfectly good- 
humored. As soon as he had made his choice, the rejected multitude returned to 
their places on the curbstone, pursuing the successful aspirant with inscrutable 
jokes as he drove off, while the horses went on munching the contents of their 
leathern head-bags, and tossing them into the air to shake down the lurking grains 
of corn." (IIowELLs's A Chance Acquaintance.) 

On the W. side of this Square is the great pile of buildings which were 
begun in 1646 for the Jesuits' College. For some years this structure 
has been deserted, and in a state of dilapidation; and it is thought that it 
will be levelled and that on its site and in the spacious grounds adjacent 
will be founded a new market-house, although a movement has been made 
to erect here a superb Parliament Building for the Province of Quebec. 
The present structure is a parallelogi-am 224 ft. long by 200 ft. wide, and 
3 stories high, whose quadrangle is entered by the lofty archway on the 
Square. 

The Jesuits' College was founded in 1637, one year before Harvard College, 
and performed a noble work in its day. It was suspended in 1759 by Gen. 
Murray, who quartered his troops here, and in 1809 the property reverted to the 
crown, on the death of the last of the Jesuit Fathers. The buildings were used 
as barracks until the British armies evacuated Canada. " From this seat of piety 
and learning issued those dauntless missionaries, who made the Gospel known 
over a space of 600 leagues, and preached the Christian faith from the St. Law- 
rence to the Mississippi. In this pious work many suffered death in the most 
cruel form ; all underwent danger and privation for a series of years, with a con- 
stancy and patience that must always command the wonder of the historian and 
the admiration of posterity." 

The * Basilica of Quebec is on the E. side of the Market Square, and 
was known as the Cathedral of Notre Dame until 1874, -when it was 
elevated by Pope Pius IX. to the rank of a basilica. It was founded in 
1666 by Bishop Laval, and was destroyed by the bombardment from 
Wolfe's batteries in 1759. The present building dates from the era of the 
Conquest, and its exterior is quaint, irregular, and homely. From its 
towers the Angelus bells sound at 6 o'clock in the morning and 6 in the 
evening. The interior is heavy, but not unpleasing,, and accommodates 
4,000 persons. The High Altar is well adorned, and there are several 
chapels in the aisles. The most notable pictures in the Basilica are, ** the 
Crucifixion, hjVan Dyck (" the Christ of the Cathedral"; the finest paint- 
ing in Canada), on the first pillar 1. of the altar; the Ecstasy of St. Paul, 
Carlo Maratti ; the Annunciation, Restout ; the Baptism of Christ, Halle ; 
the Pentecost, Vignon ; Miracles of St. Anne, Plamondon ; Angels waiting 



262 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

on Christ, Restout (in the choir); the Nativity, copy from Annibale Ca- 
racci ; Holy Family, Blanchard. 

The Basilica occupies the site of the ancient church of Notre Dame de la Recou- 
vrance, built in 1633 by Champlain, in memory of the recovery of Canada by France. 
Within its walls are buried Bishops Laval and Plessis ; Champlain, the heroic ex- 
plorer, founder and first Governor of Quebec ; and the Count de Frontenac, the 
fiery and chivalric Governor of Canada from 1688 to 1698. After his death his 
heart was enclosed in a leaden casket and sent to his widow, in France, but the 
proud countess refused to receive it, saying that she would not have a dead heart, 
which, while living, had not been hers. The noble lady (" the marvellously beautiful 
Anne de la Grand-Trianon, surnamed The Divine'") was the friend of Madame 
de S«5vigne, and was alienated from Frontenac on account of his love-affair witU 
the brilliant Versaillaise, Madame de Montespan. 

Most of the valuable paintings in the Basilica, and elsewhere in Canada, were 
bought in France at the epoch of the Revolution of 1793, when the churches and 
convents had been pillaged of their treasures of art. Many of them were purchased 
from their captors, and sent to the secure shores of New France. 

Back of the Basilica, on Port Dauphin St., is the extensive palace of 
the Archbishop, surrounded by quiet gardens. To the E. are the Parlia- 
ment Building and the Grand Battery. 

The * Seminary of Quebec adjoins the Cathedral on the N., and covers 
several acres with its piles of quaint and rambling buildings and quiet 
and sequestered gardens. It is divided into Le Grand Seminaire and Le 
Petit Seminaire^ the former being devoted to Roman-Catholic theology and 
the education of priests. The Minor Seminary is for the study of litera- 
ture and science (for boys), and the course extends over nine years. 
Boarders pay $150 a year, exclusive of washing, music, and draw- 
ing. The students may be recognized in the streets by their peculiar 
uniform. The quadrangle, with its old and irregular buildings; the spot- 
less neatness of the grounds; the massive Avails and picturesquely outlined 
groupings, will claim the interest of the visitor. 

" No such building could be seen anywhere save in Quebec, or in some ancient 
provincial town in Normandy. You ask for one of the gentlemen (priests), and you 
are introduced to his modest apartment, where you find him in his soutane, with all 
the polish, learning, and bonhonunie of the nineteenth century." Visitors are con- 
ducted over the building in a courteous manner. 

The Seminary Chapel has some fine paintings (beginning at the r. of the en- 
trance): the Saviour and the Samaritan Woman, La Grente; the Virgin attended 
by Angels, Dieu; the Crucifixion, Monet; the Hermits of the Thebaid, Ouillot; 
the Vision of St. Jerome, D'' Hullin ; the Ascension, Philippe de Champagne ; the 
Burial of Christ, Hutin; (over the altar) the Flight into Egypt, Vanlno ; above 
which is a picture of Angels, Lebritn ; the Trance of St. Anthony, Parrocel 
d'' Avignon ; the Day of Pentecost, P. de Champagne ; St. Peter freed from Prison, De 
la Fosse; The Baptism of Christ, Halle; St. Jerome Writing, J. B. Champagne; 
Adoration of the Magi, Bonnieu. "The Chapel on the r. of the chief altar con- 
tains the relics of St. Clement ; that on the 1. the relics of St. Modestus." 

The Seminary of Quebec was founded in 1663 by M de Laval, who endowed it with 
all his great wealth. The first buildings were erected in 1666, and the present Semi- 
nary is composed of edifices constructed at different dates since that time. In 1865 
a large part of the quadrangle was burnt, but it has since been restored. In 1704 
there were 54 teachers and students ; in 1810 there were 110 ; and there are now over 
400 (exclusive of the University students). " When we awake its departed shades, 
they rise upon us from their graves, in strange romantic guise. Men steeped in 
antique learning, pale with the close breath of the cloister, here spent the noon and 
evening of their lives, ruled savage hordes with a mild paternal sway, and stood 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 263 

serene before the direst shapes of death. Men of courtly natures, heirs to the polish 
of a far-reaching ancestry, here with their dauntless hardihood put to shame the 
boldest sons of toil." 

The * Laval University is between the Seminary gardens and the ram- 
parts, and may be reached from St. Famille St. The main building is 280 ft. 
long and 5 stories high, is built of cut stone, and cost $ 225,000. The roof is a 
flat sanded platform, securely enrailed, where the students promenade and 
enjoy the grand * view of the city, the river, and the Laurentian Mts. Vis- 
itors are admitted to the collections of the University on application to the 
janitor. The reception-rooms contain the great picture of the Madonna of 
Quebec, a portrait of Pius IX., hy Pasqualoni, and other paintings. The large 
hall of convocation has seats for 2,000, with galleries for ladies. The chem- 
ical laboratory is a fire-proof chamber, modelled after that of King's Col- 
lege, London ; and the dissecting-room is spacious and well arranged. The 
* mineral museum was prepared by the late Abb^ Haiiy, an eminent 
scientist, and contains specimens of the stones, ores, and minerals of 
Canada, with a rare and valuable collection of crystals. It fills a long 
series of apartments, from which the visitor is ushered into the ethnologi- 
cal and zoological cabinets. Here are a great number of Indian remains, 
implements, and weapons, and other Huron antiquities; with prepared 
specimens of Canadian animals and fish. The Library contains 70,000 
volumes (about half of which are French), aiTanged in two spacious halls, 
from whose windows delightful views are obtained. The * Picture-Gal- 
lery has lately been opened to the public, and is the richest in Canada. 
The works are mostly copies from the old masters, though there are sev- 
eral undoubted originals. It is by far the finest gallery N. of New York, 
and should be carefully studied. The visitor should also see the brilliant 
collection of Canadian birds; and the costly philosophical and medical 
apparatus, imported from Paris. The extensive dormitories occupy sub- 
stantial stone buildings near the University, over the gardens. 

The Seminary was founded in 1663 by Francois de Montmorenci Laval, first Bishop 
of Quebec, and has been the central power of the Catholic Church in this Province 
for over two centuries. The Laval University was founded in 1852, and has had the 
privileges of a Catholic University accorded to it by Pope Pius IX. The processes 
of study are modelled on those of the University of Louvain. The department of 
arts has 14 professors, the law has 6, divinity has 5, and medicine has 8. There are 
also 24 professors in the Minor Seminary. 

The Parliament Building is on the site of Champlain's fort and the old 
Episcopal Palace, and is an extensive but plain building, whose glory has 
departed since the decapitalization of Quebec. The Legislative Council 
of the Province meets in a pleasant hall, upholstered and carpeted in crim- 
son, with a very large throne, over which is a canopy surmounted by the 
arms of the United Kingdom. There are spacious galleries for visitors. 
The hall of the House of Assembly is on the front of the building, and is 
upholstered in green. Back of the speaker's chair is a line of Corinthian 
pilasters upholding a pediment on which are the Eoyal Arms. The *Li- 



264: Route 68. QUEBEC. 

hrary occupies a large and quiet apartment on the first floor, and is rich in 
French-Canadian literature. It also has copies of the costly volumes of 
Audubon's "Birds of America," Dugdale's '-'■ 3{onasticon Anglicanuin,'^ 
"The Antiquities of Italy," and the ^^Acta Sanctorum^^ (54 volumes, in 
vellum). 

Mountain-Hill St. descends by the place of the Prescott Gate, to the 
Lower Town, winding down the slope of the cliff. On the r., about ^ of 
the way down, are the * Champlain Steps, or Cote la Montague, a steep, 
crowded, and picturesque stairway leading down to Notre Dame des 
Victoires (see page 271). Near the foot of the steps is a grating, over the 
place where the remains of Champlain were recently found, in the vault 
of an ancient chapel. The Cote la ]\Iontagne has reminded one author 
of Naples and Trieste, another of Venice and Trieste, and another of 
Malta. 

The new Post-Office is a handsome stone building at the corner of Buade 
and Du Fort Sts. In its front wall is a figure of a dog, carved in the stone 
and gilded, under which is the inscription: — 

" Je snis un chien qui ronge I'os ; (" I nm a dog gnawing a bone. 

En le rongeant je prend men repos. VS^hile I gnaw I take my repose. 

TJn temps viendra qui n'est pas venu The time will come, though not j;et, 

Que je mordrais qui m'aura mordu." When I will bite him who now bites me.") 

This lampoon was aimed at the Intendant Bigot by M. Fhilibert, who had 
suffered wrong from him, but soon after the carved stone had been put 
into the front of Fhilibert' s house, that gentleman was assassinated by an 
officer of the garrison. The murderer exchanged into the East Indian 
army, but was pursued by Fhilibert' s brother, and Avas killed, at Fondi- 
cherry, after a severe conflict. 

The Post-Office occupies the site of the Grand Place of the early French town, ou 
•which encamped the Huron tribe, sheltered by the fort from the attacks of the piti- 
less Iroquois. Here afterwards hved the beautiful Miss Prentice, with whom Nelson 
fell in love, so that he had to be forced on board of his ship to got him away. "How 
many changes would have ensued on the map of Europe ! how many new horizons in 
history, if Nelson had deserted the naval service of his country in 1782 ! Without 
doubt, Napoleon would have given law to the entire world. His supremacy on the 
sea would have consolidated his rule over the European continent ; and that because 
an amorous young naval officer was seized by a passion for a bewitching Canadian 
girl I " Near this place the Duke of Clarence, then a subaltern of the fleet, but 
afterwards King William IV. of England, followed a young lady home in an un- 
seemly manner, and was caught by her father and very soundly horsewhipped. 

The * Ursuline Convent is entered from Garden St., and is a spacious 
pile of buildings, commenced in 1686, and covering T acres with its gardens 
and offices. There are 40 nuns, who are devoted to teaching girls, and 
also to working in embroidery, painting, and fancy articles. The parlors 
and chapel may be visited by permission of the chaplain (whose office is 
adjacent) ; and in the latter are some valuable paintings : * Christ at the 
Pharisee's House, by Philippe de Champagne ; Saints Nonus and Pelagius, 
Prudkomme; the Saviour Freaching, P. de Champagne; the Miraculous 
Draught of Fish, Le Dieu de Jouvenet ; Captives at Algiers, Restout ; St. 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 265 

Peter, Spanish School; and several others. In the shrines are relics of St. 
Clement Martyr, and other saints from the Koman catacombs. Within a 
grave made by a shell which burst in this chapel during the bombardment 
of 1759 is buried "the High and Mighty Lord, Louis Joseph, Marquis of 
Montcalm," and over his remains is the inscription, "Honneur a Mont- 
calm ! Le destin en lui d^robant de la victoire I'a recompense par nne 
mort glorieuse." Montcalm's skull is carefully preserved under glass, and 
is shown as an object worthy of great veneration. 

The first Superior of the Ursuline Convent was Mother Marie de I'Incamation, 
who was " revered as the St. Teresa of her time." She ma.stered the Huron and 
Algonquin languages, and her letters to France form one of the most valuable rec- 
ords of the early days of Canada. The convent was founded in 1639, when the first 
abbess landed in Quebec amid the salutes of the castle-batteries ; and the special 
work of the nuns was that of educating the Indian girls. The convent was burnt 
down in 1650, and again in 1886, when the Ursulines were sheltered by the Hopital- 
ieres. The Archbishop has recently ordered that the term of profession shaU be for 
seven years, instead of for life. 

Morrin College occupies a massive stone building at the corner of 
St. Anne and Stanislas Sts., and is the only non-Episcopal Protestant col- 
lege in the Province. It Avas founded by Dr. Morrin, and has 5 pi-ofessors, 
but has had but little success as an educational institution. The build- 
ing was erected by the Government in 1810, for a prison; and occupied 
the site of an ancient fort of Champlain's era. It was used as a prison 
until the new Penitentiary was built, on the Plains of Abraham, and in 
the N. wing are the " sombre corridors that not long ago resounded witli 
the steps of the jailers, and the narrow cells that are never enlivened by 
a ray of light." 

The * Library of the Quebec Literary and Historical Society is in the 
N. wing of Morrin College, and contains a rare collection of books re- 
lating to Canadian history and science, in the French and English lan- 
guages. This society is renowned for its valuable researches in the annals 
of the old St. Lawrence Provinces, and has published numerous volumes 
of records. It includes in its membership the leading literati of Eastern 
Canada. There is a small but interesting museum connected with the 
library-hall. 

St. Andrew'' s Church, with its school and manse, occupy the triangle at 
the intersection of St. Anne and Stanislas Sts. It is a low, quaint build- 
ing, erected in 1809 on ground granted by Sir James Craig. Previouslj', 
from the time of the Conquest of Canada, the Scottish Presbyterians had 
worshipped in the Jesuits' College. The Wesleyan Church is a comforta- 
ble modern building, just below Morrin College; beyond which, on 
Dauphin St., is the chapel of the Congregationalists (Roman Catholic). 
At the corner of St. John and Palace Sts. (second story) is a statue of 
Wolfe, which is nearly a century old, and bears such a relation to Quebec 
as does the Mannikin to Brussels. It was once stolen at night by some 
12 



266 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

roystering naval officers, and carried oflf to Barbadoes, whence it was re- 
turned many months after, enclosed in a coffin. 

The * Hotel-Dieu Convent and Hospital is the most extensive pile of 
buildings in Quebec, and is situated on Palace St. (r. side) and the Ram- 
part. E. of the long ranges of buildings (in which 650 sick persons can be 
accommodated) are pleasant and retired gardens. The convent-church is 
entered from Charlevoix St., and contains valuable pictures: the Nativity, 
by Stella ; the Virgin and Child, Coypel ; the Vision of St. Teresa, Mena- 
geot; St. Bruno in Meditation, Le Sueur (called '" the Raphael of France"); 
the * Praying Monk, by Zurharan (undoubted); and fine copies of the 
Twelve Apostles, by Raphael, and the Descent from the Cross, hy Rvbens 
(over the high altar). 

The Hotel Dieu was founded by the Duchesse d'Aguillon (niece of Cardinal Riche- 
lieu) in 1639. In 166i one of the present buildings was erected, and most of it was 
built during the 17th century, while Talon, Baron des Islets, completed it in 1762. 
There are ^-40 cloistered nuns of the order of the Hopitalieres, and the hospital 
is open freely to the sick and infirm poor of whatever sect, with attendance by the 
best doctors of the city. The singing of the nuns during the Sunday services will 
interest the visitor. 

The most precious relic in the Hotel-Bieu is a silver bust (in life size) of Brebeuf, 
in whose base is preserved the skull of that heroic martyr. Jean de Brebeuf, a Nor- 
man Jesuit of noble blood, arrived at Quebec with Champlain in 1633, and went to 
the Huron country the next year. Here he had frequent celestial visions, and 
labored successfully in the work of converting the nation. He often said : " Sentw 
we vehementer impelli ad moriendum pro Christo " ; and his wish was gratified when 
his mission-town of St. Ignace was stormed by the Iroquois (in 1649). He was bound 
to a stake and scorched from head to foot ; the savages cut away his lower lip, and 
thrust a red-hot iron down his throat ; hung around his neck a necklace of red-hot 
collars (•' but the indomitable priest stood like a rock") ; poured boiling water over 
his head and face, in demoniac mockery of baptism; cut strips of flesh from his 
limbs, and ate them before his eyes ; scalped him ; cut open his breast, and drank 
his living blood ; filled his eyes with Uve coals ; and after four hours of torture, a 
chief tore out his heart and devoured it. " Thus died Jean de Brebeuf, the founder 
of the Huroa mission, its truest hero, and its greatest martyr. He came of a noble 
race, — the same, it is said, from which sprang the English Earls of Arundel ; but 
never had the mailed barons of his hue confronted a fate so appalling with so pro- 
digious a constancy. To the last he refused to flinch, and ' his death was the aston- 
ishment of his murderers.' " The delicate and slender Lalemant, Br6beuf"s col- 
league on the mission, was tortured for seventeen hours, with the most refined and 
exquisite varieties of torment. " It was said that, at times, he seemed beside him- 
self; then, rallying, with hands uplifted, he offered his sufferings to Heaven as a 
sacrifice." The bones of Lalemant are preserved at the Hotel Dieu. 

Around the Ramparts. 
* The Citadel is an immense and powerful fortification, covering 40 
acres of ground, and is situated on the summit of Cape Diamond (so called 
from the glittering crystals found in the vicinity), which is said to be " the 
coldest place in the British Empire." Since the evacuation of Canada by 
the Imperial troops, the Citadel has been garrisoned by Provincial volun- 
teers, and visitors are usually permitted to pass around the walls under 
the escort of a soldier. The **view from the most northerly bastion 
(which contains an immense Armstrong gun) surpasses that from the 
Durham Terrace, and is one of the most magnificent in the world. The 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 267 

St. Charles is seen winding through a beautiful undulating plain, and the 
spires of Beauport, Charlesbourg, and Lorette, with the white cottages 
around them, form pleasing features in the landscape. On the S. of the 
parade are the officers' quarters and the bomb-proof hospital, while bar- 
racks and magazines are seen in advance. The armory contains a great 
number of military curiosities, but is not always accessible to visitors. 
The Citadel is separated from the town by a broad glacis, which is broken 
by three ravelins ; and the wall on that side contains a line of casemated 
barracks. The entrance to the Citadel is by way of a winding road which 
leads in from St. Louis St. through the slope of the glacis, and enters first 
the outer ditch of the ravelin, beyond the strong Chain Gate. Thence it 
passes, always under the mouths of cannon, into the main ditch, which is 
faced with masonry, and at this point opens into a narrow parade, over- 
looked by the retiring angles of the bastion. The curious iron- work of the 
Chain Gate being passed, the visitor finds himself in an open triangular 
parade, under the loopholes of the Dalhousie Bastion. 

" Such structures carry us back to the Middle Ages, the siege of Jerusalem, and 
St. Jean d'Acre, and the days of the Buccaniers. In the armory of the Citadel they 
showed me a clumsy implement, long since useless, which they called a Lombard 
gun. I thought that their whole Citadel was such a Lombard gun, fit object for the 

museums of the curious Silhman states that ' the cold is so intense in the 

winter nights, particularly on Cape Diamond, that the sentinels cannot stand it 
more than one hour, and are reheved at the expiration of that time ; and even, 
as it is said, at much shorter intervals, in case of the most extreme cold.' I shall 
never again wake up in a colder night than usual, but I shall think how rapidly the 
sentinels are relieving one another on the walls of Quebec, their quicksilver being 
all frozen, as if apprehensive that some hostile Wolfe may even then be scaling the 
Heights of Abraham, or some persevering Arnold about to issue from the wilderness ; 
some Malay or Japanese, perchance, coming round by the N. W. coast, have chosen 
that moment to assault the Citadel. Why I should as soon expect to see the senti- 
nels still relieving one another on the walls of Nineveh, which have so long been 
buried to the world. What a troublesome thing a wall is ! I thought it was to de- 
fend me, and not I it. Of course, if they had no waUs they would not need to have 
any sentinels." (Thoreau.) 

The Citadel was formerly connected vrith the Artillery Barracks, at the farther 
end of the city, by a bomb-proof covered way 1,837 yards long. These fortifications 
are 345 feet above the river, and considerably higher than the Upper Town. The 
rock on which they are founded is of dark slate, in which are hmpid quartz-crystals. 

The picturesque walls of Quebec are of no defensive value since the modern im- 
provements in gunnery ; and even the Citadel could not prevent dangerous ap- 
proaches or a bombardment of the city. Skilful military engineers have therefore 
laid out a more extensive system of modern fortifications, including lines of powerful 
detached forts on the heights of Point Levi, and at Sillery. The former were begun 
in 1867, and are nearly completed ; but the Sillery forts are not yet commenced. 

The spirit of utilitarianism, which has levelled the walls of Frankfort and Vienna 
and is menacing Boston Common, has been attacking the ramparts of Quebec for 
many years. The people of the Upper Town and the extra-mural wards are doubt- 
less much incommoded by this broad wall of separation , which has also become use- 
less in a miUtary point of view. However much it may be deplored by antiquarians 
and men of culture, the day is at hand when the mediaeval fortifications of Quebec 
will be sacrificed to the spirit of the times. There are not wanting reverent Ameri- 
can Ruskins to cry out against such demolition, but the wishes of the indigenous 
population will probably prevail against these ideas. Already the picturesque old 
gates are gone. The St. Louis and Prescott Gates were taken down in 1871, and the 
Palace and Hope Gates were removed in 1873, 



268 Rout^ &S. QUEBEC. 

The Esplanade extend? to the r. from the St. Louis Gate (-within), and 
the tourist is recommended to -walk along the ramparts to St. John's G^ate, 
viewing the deep fosse, the massive outworks, and the antiquated ord- 
nance at the embrasures. On the r. are. the Stadacona Club, the Congre- 
gational (Catholic) Church, and the Xational School; and Montcalm's 
Ward is on the 1- * St. John's Gate is the only remaining gate of the 
city, and is a strong and graceful structxire which was erected in 1S69. 
While rallying his soldiers outside of this gate, the Marquis de ;Montcalm 
was mortally wounded: and CoL Brown (of Massachusetts) attacked this 
point while Arnold and Montgomery were fighting in the Lower Town. To 
the 1. is St. John's Ward (see page 269); and the road to St. Foy passes 
below. The ramparts must be left at this point, and D'Anteuil and St. 
Helene Sts. foUow their course by the Artillery Barraclcs, amid fine 
grounds at the S. "VT. angle of the fortifications. The French garrison 
erected the most important of these buildings (600 ft. long) in 1750, and the 
British Government has since made large additions ; but the barracks are 
now unoccupied and are closed up. On and near St. Helene St. are sev- 
eral churches, — St. Patrick's (Irish Catholic), Trinity (Anglican), the 
Baptist, and the Congregational. 

After crossing the wide and unsightly gap made by the removal of the 
Palace Gate, the rambler may foUow the course of the walls from the 
Hotel Dieu (see page 266) to the Parliament Building. They occupy the 
crest of the cliff", and command fine views over the two rivers and the Isle 
of Orleans and Laurentian Mts. The walls are thin and low, but are fur- 
nished with lines of loopholes and with bastions for artillery. The walk 
take? an easterly course beyond the angle of the convent-buildings, and 
passes between the battlements and the high walls of the Hotel-Dieu gar- 
dens for nearly 500 ft. 

The streets which, intersect the Rampaxt beyond this point are of a quaint and 
pleasing character. One of them is thus described by Ho wells : " The thresholds 
and doorsteps were corered with the neatest and brightest oilcloth : the -wooden 
sidewalk -was -very clean, like the steep, roughly paved street itself: and at the foot 
of the hill down which it slope! was a breadth "of the city wall, pierced for musketry, 
and, past the comer of one "of the houses, the half-length of cannon showing. It 
had an the charm of those ancient streets, dear to Old-World tra-rel, in_ which the 
past and present, decay and repair, peace and war, have made friends in an effect 
that not only -R-ins the eye. but, however illogically, touches the heart : and over 
the top of the wail it had a stretch of landscape "as I know not what European 
street can command : the St. La-nrence, blue and -wide : a bit of the white -village of 
Beanport on its bank : then a vast breadth of pale green, upward-sloping meadows ; 
then the purple heights : and the hazy heaven above them." 

Since Prescott Gate fell, there was '• nothing left so picturesque and characteristic 
as Hope Gate, and I doubt if anywhere in Europenhere is a more mediaeval-looking 
bit of military architecture. The hea-vy stone gateway is black with age, and the 
gate, which has probably never been closed in our century, is of massive frame, set 
thick -with mighty bolts" and spikes. The wall here sweeps along the brow of the 
crag on which the city is built, and a steep street drops down, by stone- parapeted 
curves and angles fro'm the Upper to the Lower To-wn. where, in 1775, nothing but 
a narrow lane 'bordered the St. Lawrence. A considerable breadth of land has since 
been won from the river, and several streets and many piers now stretch between 
this allev and the water : but the old Sault au Matelot still crouches and creeps 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 269 

alon» trader the shelter of the city wall and the overhanging rock, -which is thickly- 
bearded with -weeds and grass, and trickles -with abundant moisture. It must be 
an ice-pit in -winter, and I should think it the last spot on the continent for the 
summer to find ; but -when the summer ha^ at last found it, the old Sault au 
Matelot puts on a vagabond air of Southern leisure and abandon, not to be matched 
anywhere out of Italy. Looking from that jutting rock near Hope Gate, behind 
which the defeated Americans took refuge from the fire of their enemies, the vista 
is almost unique for a certain scenic squalor and g^'P^J luxury of color : sag-roofed 
bams and stables, weak-backed and sunken-chested workshops of every sort lounge 
along in tumble-down succession, and lean up against the cliff in every imaginable 
posture of worthlessness and decrepitude ; hght wooden galleries cross to them from 
the second stories of the houses which look back on the alley ; and over these galleries 
flutters, from a labyrinth of clothes-hnes, a variety of bright-colored garments of 
aU ages, sexes, andconditions ; while the footway underneath abounds in gossiping 
women, smoking men, idle poultry, cats, children, and large indolent Newfoundland 
dogs." (Hq-wells's a Chance Acquaintance.) 

Passing the ends of these quiet streets, and crossing the gap caused by 
the removal of Hope Gate, the Eampart promenade turns to the S., by the 
immense block of the Laval University (see page 263) and its concealed 
gardens. The course is no-^ to the S., and soon reaches the * Grand Bat- 
tery, -where 22 32-pounders command the river, and from -whose terrace a 
pleasing vie-w may be obtained. The visitor is then obliged to leave the 
walls near the Parliament Building (see page 263) and the site of the Pres- 
cott Gate. A short detour leads out again to the Durham Terrace (see 
page 259). Des Carrieres St. runs S. from the Place d'Armes to the Gov- 
ernor''$ Garden, a pleasant summer-evening resort, with a monument 65 ft. 
high, erected in 1827 to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm, and bear- 
ing the elegant and classic inscription : 

Mortem. Virtus. Co^nimunem. 

Famam. Historia. 

monumentum. posteritas. 

Dedit. 

In the lower garden is a battery which commands the harbor. Des 
Carrieres St. leads to the inner glacis of the Citadel, and by turning to the 
r. on St. Denis St., its northern outworks and approaches may be seen. 
Passing a cluster of barracks on the r., the Chalmers CJiurch is reached. 
This is a symmetrical Gothic building occupied by the Presbyterians, and 
its services have ail the peculiarities of the old Scottish church. Beyond 
this point is St. Louis St., whence the circuit of the walls was begun. 



The Montcalm and St. John Wards extend W. on the plateau, from the 
city-walls to the line of the Martello Towers. The population is mostly 
French, and the quarter is entered by passing down St. John St. and 
through St. John's Gate. Glacis St. leads to the r., just beyond the walls, 
to the Convent of the Gray Sisters, which has a lofty and elegant chapel. 
There are about 70 nuns, whose lives are devoted to teaching and to 
visiting the sick. This building shelters 136 orphans and infirm persons. 



270 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

and the sisters teach 700 female children. It overlooks the St, Charles 
valley, commanding fine views. Just above the nunnery is the Convent 
of the Christian Brothers, facing on the glacis of the rampart. A short 
distance out St. John St. is St. Matthew's Church (Episcopal); beyond 
which is the stately Church of St. John (Catholic), whose twin spires are 
seen for many leagues to the N. and W. The interior is lofty and light, 
and contains 12 copies from famous European paintings, executed by 
Plamondon, a meritorious Canadian artist. Claire-Fontaine St. leads S. 
from this church to the Grande Allee, passing just inside the line of the 
Martello Towers; and Sutherland St., leading into the Lower Town, is a 
little way beyond. The St. Foy toll-gate is about ^ M. from St. John's 
Church. 

" Above St. John's Gate, at the end of the street of that name, devoted entirely to 
business, there is at sunset one of the most beautiful views imaginable. The river 
St. Charles, gambolling, as it were, in the rays of the departing luminary, the light 
still lingering on the spires of Lorette and Charlesbourg, until it fades away beyond 
the lofty mountains of Bonhomme and Tonnonthuan, presents an evening scene of 
gorgeous and surpassing splendor." (Hawkins.) 

" A sunset seen from the heights above the wide valley of the St. Charles, bathing 
in tender light the long undulating lines of remote hills, and transfiguring with glory 
the great chain of the Laurentides, is a sight of beauty to remain in the mind for- 
ever." (Marshall.) 

The Montcalm Ward may also be reached by passing out St. Louis St., 
through the intricate and formidable lines of ravelins and redoubts near 
the site of the St. Louis Gate. On the r. is the skating-rink, beyond which 
are the pleasant borders of the Grand Allde. The Convent of the Good 
Shepherd is in this ward, and has, in its church, a fine copy of Murillo's 
" Conception," by Plamondon. There are 74 nuns here, 90 penitents, and 
500 girl-students. The dark and heavy mediaeval structure on the Grand 
Allee was built for the Canada Military Asylum, to takecareof the widows 
and orphans of British soldiers who died on the Canadian stations. Near 
the corner of De Salaberry St. is St. Bridget's Asylum, connected with St. 
Patrick's Church. The Ladies'" Protestant Home is nearlj'- opposite, and 
is a handsome building of white brick, where 70 old men and young girls 
are kept from want by the bounty of the ladies of Quebec. 

The Martello Towers are four in number, and were built outside the 
extra-mural wards in order to protect them and to occupy the line of 
heights. They were erected in 1807-12, at an expense of $60,000, and 
are arranged for the reception of 7 guns each. They are circular in form, 
and have walls 13 ft. thick toward the country, while on the other side they 
are 7 ft. thick. The new Jail is about ^ M. in advance of the towers, and 
is a massive stone building, with walls pierced for musketry. Near this 
point (turning to the 1. from the Gi-aud All^e beyond the toll-gate), and on 
the edge of the Plains of Abraham (extending to the S.), is a monument 
consisting of a tall column, decked with trophies, and rising from a square 
base, on which is the inscription : 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 271 

HEKE DIED 
WOLFE 

victorious. 

Sept. 13. 

1759. 

"The horror of the night, the precipice scaled by "Wolfe, the empire he with a 
handful of men added to England, and the glorious catastrophe of contentedly ter- 
minating life -where his fame began Ancient story may be ransacked, and 

ostentatious philosophy thrown into the account, before an episode can be found to 
rank with Wolfe's." (William Pitt.) 

77^6 Lower Town. 

The most picturesque approach from the Upper to the Lower Town is 
by the Champlain Steps (see page 264). This route leads to the busiest 
and most crowded part of the old river wards, and to the long lines of steam- 
boat wharves. Notre Dame des Victoires is in the market square in the 
Lower Town, and is a plain old structure of stone, built on the site of 
Champlain's residence. It was erected in 1690, and was called Notre Dame 
des Victoires to commemorate the deliverance of the city from the English 
attacks of 1690 and 1711, in honor of which an annual religious feast was 
Instituted. A prophecy was made by a nun that the church would be de- 
stroyed by the conquering British; and in 1759 it was burned during the 
bombardment from Wolfe's batteries. S. of Notre Dame is the spacious 
Champlain Market, near an open square on whose water-front the river- 
steamers land. The narrow Champlain St. may be followed to the S., 
under Cape Diamond and by the point where Montgomery fell, to the great 
timber -coves above. 

St. Peter St. runs N. between the cliffs and the river, and is the seat of 
the chief trade of the city, containing numerous banks, public offices, and 
wholesale houses. The buildings are of the prevalent gray stone, and are 
massive and generally plain. The parallel lane at the foot of the cliff is 
the scene of the final discomfiture of the American assault in 1775. It is 
named Sault au Matelot, to commemorate the leap of a dog from the cliff 
above, near the Grand Battery. Leadenhall St. leads off on the r. to the 
great piers of Pointe a Garcy and to the imposing classic building of the 
* Custom-Hoiise, which is at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St, 
Charles Rivers. St. Paul St. runs W. from near the end of St. Peter St., 
along the narrow strip between the St. Charles and the northern cliffs, and 
passes the roads ascending to the Hope and Palace Gates. 

The Queen's Fuel- Yard (1. side) is beyond the Palace Market, and occupies the site 
of an immense range of buildings erected by M. Begon, one of the later Royal In- 
tendants of New France. Here also lived Bigot in all the feudal splendor of the old 
French noblesse, on the revenues which he extorted from the oppressed Province. 
In 1775 the palace was captured by Arnold's Virginia riflemen, who so greatly an- 
noyed the garrison that the buildings were set on fire and consumed by shells from 
the batteries of the Upper Town. 



272 Haute 6S. QUEBEC. 

St. Paul St. is prolonged hj St. Joseph St., the main thoroiigliforeof this 
quarter, and the boundary between the Jaques Cartier and St. Koch Wards. 
The hitter is occupied chiefly by manufactories and shipyards (on the 
sliores of tlie St. Cluarles): and the narrow and plank-paved streets of 
Jaques Cartier, toward the northern walls, are filled with quaint little 
houses and interesting genre views about the homes of the French-Canadian 
artisans. St. Roch's Church is a very spacious building, with broad in- 
terior galleries, and contains several religious paintings. The Convent of 
Notre Dame is opposite St. Eoch's, and has 70 nmis (black costume), who 
teach 725 children. 

The * Marine Hospital is a large and imposing modern building, in 
Ionic architecture, situated in a park of six acres on the banks of the St. 
Charles River. The General Hospital and the monastery of Notre Dame 
des Anges form an extensive pile of buildings, on St. Ours St., near the 
St. Charles. They were founded by De Vallier, second bishop of Quebec 
(in 1693), for invalids and incurables. He spent 100,000 crowns in this 
work, erecting the finest building hi Canada (at that time). It is now 
conducted by a superior and 45 nuns of St. Augustine. The convent- 
church of Notre Dame des Anges has 14 paintings by Legarc, with an 
Assumption (over the high altar) dating from 1671. 

Pointe aux Lici-res, or Hare Point, is beyond the General Hospital, on the mead- 
ows of the St. Charles. It is supposevi to be the place where the pions Franciscan 
monks founded the first mission in Canada. Jaques Cartier's winterniuarters in 
1536 were here, and on leaving this point he carried oil" the Indian king, Donnacona, 
who was afterwards baptizeil with great pomp in the magnificent cathedral of 
Ronen. On this ground, also, the army of Montcalm tried to rally after the disas- 
trous battle on the Phuns of Abraham. 

The suburb of the Banlieue lies beyond St. Ours St., and is occupied by 
the homes of the lower classes, with the heights toward St. Foy rising on 
the S. St. Sauveur's Church is the only fine building in this quarter. 

In ^lay, 1535. Jaques Cartier with his patrician officers and lArdy sailors attended 
high mass and received the bishop's blessing in the Cathedral of St. Malo, and then 
departed across the unknown western seas. "The largest of his vessels was of only 120 
tons" burden, yet the tleet crossed the ocean safely, and ascended the broad St. Law- 
rence. Having passed the dark Saguenay clifls and the vine-laden shores of the Isle 
of Orleans, he" entered a broad basin where " a mighty promontory, rugged and 
bare, thrust its scalped front into the raging current. Here, clothed in the majesty 
of soHtude, breathing the stern poetry of "the wilderness, rose the cliffs now rich 
with heroic memories, where the fiery Count Frontenac cast defiance at his foes, 
where Wolfe, Montcalm, and Montgomery fell. As yet all was a nameless barbar- 
ism, and a cluster of wigwams held the site of the rook-built city of Quebec. Its 
name was Stadacono, and it owned the sway of the royal Donnacona." 

It is held as an old ti-adition that when Cartier's Xorman sailors first sjiw the 
promontory of Cape Diamond, they shouted " Quel bee' " (*' What a beak I ") which 
by a natural elision has been changed to Quebec. Others claim that they named the 
place in loving memory of Caudebec, on the Seine, to which its natural features bear 
a magnified resemblance. But the more likely origin of the name is from the Indian 
word ktbec, signifying a strait, and applied to the comparative narrowing of the river 
above the Basin. ' It is, however, held in siipport of the Xorman origin of the name 
that the seal of William de la Pole. Earl of Suffolk in the 15th century, bears the 
title of Lord of Quebec. This noble had large domains in France, and was the vic- 
tor at Crevant and Oompeigne, and the conqueror of J oan of Arc , but was imiK'ached 



QUEBEC. Route GS. 273 

and put to death (as narrated by Shakespeare, King Henry VI , Part IT., Act IV., 
Scene 1) for losing the English provinces in France after 34 arduous campaigns. 

When Car tier went to Montreal his men built a fort and prepared winter-quarters 
near the St. Charles River. Soon after his return an intense cold set in, and nearly 
every man in the. fleet was stricken down with the scurvy, of which many died in 
great suffering. In the springtime, Car tier planted the cross and fleur-de-lis on 
the site of Quebec, and returned to France, carrying King Donnacona and several 
of his chiefs as prisoners. These Indians were soon afterwards received into the 
Catholic Church, with much pomp and ceremony, and died within a year, in 
France. In 1541 Cartier returned with 5 vessels and erected forts at Cap Rouge, 
but the Indians were suspicious, and the colony was soon abandooed. Soon after- 
wards Roberval, the Viceroy of New France, founded another colony on the same 
site, but after a long and miserable winter it also was broken up. 

In the year 1608 the city of Quebec was founded by the noble Champlain,! who 
erected a fort here, and laid the foundations of Canada. A party of Franciscan 
monks arrived in 1615, and the Jesuits came in 1644. In 1628 Sir David Kirke 
vainly attacked the place with a small English fleet, but in 1629 he was more suc- 
cessful, and, after a long blockade, made himself master of Quebec. It was restored 
to France in 1632 ; and in 1635 Governor Champlain died, and was buried in the 
Lower Town. Champlain's successor was Charles de Montmagny, a brave and de- 
vout Knight of Malta, on whom the Iroquois bestowed the name of Onontio 
(*' Great Mountain'"). The work of founding new settlements and of proselyting 
the Hurons and combating the Iroquois was continued for the next century from 
the rock of Quebec. 

After the king had erected his military colonies along the St. Lawrence, he found 
that another element was necessary in order to make them permanent and progres- 
sive. Therefore, between 1665 and 1673 he sent to Quebec 1,000 girls, most of whom 
were of the French peasantry ; though the Intendant, mindful of the tastes of his 
officers, demanded and received a consignment of young ladies {'■'■demoiselles bien 
choisies "). These cargoes included a wide variety, from Parisian vagrants to Nor- 
man ladies, and were maliciously styled by one of the chief nuns, " mixed goods " 
(une marchandise inilee). The government provided them with dowries ; bachelors 
were excluded by law from trading, fishing, and hunting, and were distinguished by 
" marks of infamy "; and the French Crown gave bounties for children (each inhab- 
itant who had 10 children being entitled to a pension of from 400 to 800 livres). 
About the year 1664 the city indulged in extraordinary festivities on the occasion 
of the arrival of the bones of St. Flavien and St. Felicite, which the Pope had pre- 
sented to the cathedral of Quebec. These honored rehcs were borne in solemn pro- 
cession through the streets, amid the sounds of martial music and the roaring of 
saluting batteries, and were escorted by the Marquis de Tracy, the Intendant Talon, 
and the valiant Courcelles, behind whom marched the royal guards and the famous 
Savoyard regiment of Carignan-Salieres, veterans of the Turkish campaigns. The 
diocese of Quebec was founded in 1674, and endowed with the revenues of the ancient 
abbeys of Maubec and Benevent. In the same ship with Bishop Laval came Father 
Hennepin, who explored the Mississippi from the Falls of St. Anthony to the Gulf 
of Mexico, and the fearless explorer La Salle. 

In 1672 the Count de Frontenac was sent here as Governor, and in 1690 he bravely 
repulsed an attack by Sir Wm. Phipps's fleet (from Boston), inflicting severe damage 
by a cannonade from the fort. Besides many men, the assailants lost their admiral's 
standard and several ships. In 1711 Sir Hovenden Walker sailed from Boston 
against Quebec, but he lost in one day eight vessels and 884 men by shipwreck on 
the terrible reefs of the Egg Islands. Strong fortifications were built soon after ; and 
in 1759 Gen. Wolfe came up the river with 8,000 British soldiers. The Marquis de 
Montcalm was then Governor, and he moved the French army into fortified lines on 
Beauport Plains, where he defeated the British in a sanguinary action. On the 
night of Sept. 12, Wolfe's army drifted up stream on the rising tide, and succeeded 
in scaling the steep cliffs beyond the city. They wei-e fired upon by the French 
outposts ; but before Montcalm could bring his forces across the St. Charles the Brit- 

1 Champlain was born of a good family in the province of Saintonge, in 1570. He became 
a naval ofKcer, and was afterward attached to the person of King Henri IV. In 1603 he ex- 
plored the St. Lawrence River up to the St. Louis Rapids, and alterward (until his death in 
1G35) he explored the country from Nantucket to the head-waters of the Ottawa. He was a 
brave, merciful, and zealous chief, and held that " the salvation of one soul is of more im- 
portance than the founding of a new empire. ' He established strong missions among the 
llurons, fought the Iroquois, and founded Quebec. 

12* R 



274 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

ish lines ■were formed upon the Plains of Abraham ; and in the short hut desperate 
battle -which ensued both the generals were mortally wounded. The English lost 
664 men, and the French lost 1,500. The French army, which was largely composed 
of provincial levies (with the regiments of La Guienne, Royal Roussilon, Beam, La 
Sarre, and Languedoc), gave way, and retreated across the St. Charles, and a few 
days later the city surrendered. 

In April, 1760, the Chevalier de Levis (of that Levis family — Dukes of Ventadour 
— which claimed to possess records of their lineal descent from the patriarch Levi) 
led the reorganized French army to St. Foy, near Quebec. Gen. Murray, hoping to 
surprise Levis, advanced (with 3,000 men) from his fine position on the Plains of 
Abraham ; but the French were vigilant, and Murray was defeated and hurled back 
within the city gates, having lost 1,000 men and 20 cannon. Levis now laid close 
siege to the city, and battered the walls (and especially St. John's Gate) from three 
heavy field-works. Quebec answered with an almost incessant cannonade from 132 
guns, until Commodore S wanton came up the river with a fleet from England. The 
British supremacy in Canada was soon afterwards assured by the Treaty of Paris, 
and Voltaire congratulated Louis XV. on being rid of" 1,500 leagues of fi-ozen coun- 
try." The memorable words of Gov. Shirley before the Massachusetts Legislature 
(June 28, 1746), " Canada est delenda,'''' were at last verified, but the campaigns had 
cost the British Government $400,000,000, and resulted in the loss of the richest of 
England's colonies. For the attempted taxation of the Americans, which resulted 
in the War of Independence, was planned in order to cover the deficit caused in the 
British Treasury by the Canadian campaigns. 

In the winter of 1775-6 the Americans besieged the city, then commanded by Gen. 
Guy Carleton (afterwards made Lord Dorchester). The provisions of the besiegers 
began to fail, their regiments were being depleted by sickness, and their light guns 
made but little impression on the massive city walls ; so an assault was ordered and 
conducted before dawn on Dec . 81 , 1775. In the midst of a heavy snow-storm Arnold 
advanced through the Lower Town from his quarters near the St. Charles River, and 
led his 800 New-Englanders and Virginians over two or three barricades. The Mon- 
treal Bank and several other massive stone houses were filled with British regulars, 
who guarded the approaches with such a deadly fire that Arnold's men were forced 
to take refuge in the adjoiniDg houses, while Arnold himself was badly wounded and 
carried to the rear. Meanwhile Montgomery was leading his New-Yorkers and Con- 
tinentals N. along Champlain St. by the river-side. The intention was for the two 
attacking columns, after driving the enemy from the Lower Town, to unite before 
the Prescott Gate and carry it by storm. A strong barricade was stretched across 
Champlain St. from the clitf to the river ; but when its guards saw the great masses 
of the attacking column advancing through the twilight, they fled. In all proba- 
bility Montgomery would have crossed the barricade, delivered Arnold's men by at- 
tacking the enemy in the rear, and then, with 1,500 men flushed with victory, would 
have escaladed the Prescott Gate and won Quebec and Canada, — but that one of 
the fleeing Canadians, impelled by a strange caprice, turned quickly back, and fired 
the cannon which stood loaded on the barricade. Montgomery and many of his 
oflBcers and men were stricken down by the shot, and the column broke up in 
panic, and fled. The British forces were now concentrated on Arnold's men, who 
were hemmed in by a sortie from the Palace Gate, and 426 ofl&cers and men were 
made prisoners. A painted board has been hung high up on the clifi' over the 
place in Champlain St, where Montgomery fell. Montgomery was an officer in Wolfe's 
army when Quebec was taken from the French 15 years before, and knew the 
ground. His mistake was in heading the forlorn hope. Quebec was the capital of 
Canada from 1760 to 1791, and alter that it served as a semi-capital, until the found- 
ing of Ottawa City. In 1845, 2,900 houses were burnt, and the place was nearly 
destroyed, but soon revived with the aid of the great lumber-trade, which is still its 
specialty. 

In September, 1874, Quebec was filled with prelates, priests, and enthusiastic 
people, and the second centennial of the foundation of the diocese was celebrated 
with great pomp. Nine triumphal arches, in Latin, By2antine, Romanesque, Classic, 
and Gothic architecture, were erected over the streets of the Upper Town, and dedi- 
cated to the metropolitan dioceses of North America ; an imposing procession passed 
under them and into the Cathedral, which was endowed on that day with the name 
and privileges of a basilica ; and at evening the city was illuminated, at a cost of 
$30,000. In the pageant was borne the ancient flag of Ticonderoga {Le Drapeau de 
Carillon), which floated over Montcalm's victorious army when he defeated Aber- 



QUEBEC. Mfmte 68. 275 

crombie on Lake Champlain (July 8, 1758), and is now one of the most esteemed 
trophies of Quebec. ^^^'s^x 

The annals of the Church contain no grander chapter than that which records 
the career of the Canadian Jesuits. Unarmed and alone, they passed forth from 
Quebec and Montreal, and traversed all the wide region between Labrador and the 
remote West, bravely meeting death in its most lingering and horrible forms at 
the hands of the vindictive savages whom they came to bless. Their achievements 
and their fate fiUed the world with amazement. Even Puritan New England 
proudly and sternly jealous of her religious Uberty, received their envoy with 
honors; Boston, Plymouth, and Salem aUke became his gracious hosts; and the 
Apostle Eliot entertained him at his Roxbury parsonage, and urged him to remain. 

"To the Jesuits the atmosphere of Quebec was wellnigh celestial. 'In the cli- 
mate of New France,' they write, ' one learns perfectly to seek only one God to 
have no desire but God, no purpose but for God.' And again: 'To Uve in New 
France is in truth to live in the bosom of God.' ' If,' adds Le Jeune ' any one of 
those who die in this country goes to perdition, I think he will be doubly guilty.' " 

"Meanwhile from Old France to New came succors and reinforcements to' the 
missions of the forest. More Jesuits crossed the sea to urge on the work of conver- 
sion. These were no stern exiles, seeking on barbarous shores an asylum for a per- 
secuted faith. Rank, wealth, power, and royalty itself smiled on their enterprise 
and bade them God-speed. Yet, withal, a fervor more intense, a self-abnegation 
more complete, a self-devotion more constant and enduring, will scarcely find its 

record on the pages of human history It was her nobler and purer part that 

gave hfe to the early missions of New France. That gloomy wilderness those 
hordes of savages, had nothing to tempt the ambitious, the proud, the grasping or 
the indolent. Obscure toil, solitude, privation, hardship, and death were to be the 
missionary's portion 

" The Jesuits had borne all that the human frame seems capable of bearing 
They had escaped as by miracle from torture and death. Did their zeal flag or their 
courage fail ? A fervor intense and unquenchable urged them on to more distant 
and more deadly ventures. The beings, so near to mortal sympathies, so human 
yet so divine, in whom their faith unpersonated and dramatized the great principles 
of Christian faith, —virgins, saints, and angels, —hovered over them, and held be- 
fore their raptured sight crowns of glory and garlands of immortal bliss Thev 
burned to do, to suffer, and to die ; and now, from out a living martyrdom thev 
turned their heroic gaze towards an horizon dark with perils yet more appalling and 
saw in hope the day when they should bear the cross into the blood-stained dens of 
the Iroquois. 

In 1647, when the powerful and bloodthirsty Iroquois were sweeping over Can- 
ada in all directions, the Superior of the Jesuits wrote: " Do not imagine that the 
rage of the Iroquois, and the loss of many Christians and many catechumens can 
vP°f ^w^"^^*, ^^^ mystery of the cross of Jesus Christ and the efficacy of his 
blood. We shall die ; we shall be captured, burned, butchered : be it so Those 
who die in their beds do not always die the best death. I see none of our company 
cast down On the contrary, they ask leave to go up to the Hurons, and some of 
tbem protest that the fires of the Iroquois are one of their motives for the iournev " 
"The iron Brebeuf, the gentle Gamier, the all-enduring Jogues, the enthusiastic 
Chaumonot Lalemant, Le xMercier, Chatelain, Daniel, Pijart, Rogueneau, DuPeron 
Poncet, Le Moyne, — one and all bore themselves with a tranquil boldness which 

amazed the Indians and enforced their respect When we look for the result 

of these missions, we soon become aware that the influence of the French and the 
Jesuits extended far beyond the circle of converts. It eventually modified and 
softened the manners of many unconverted tribes. In the wars of the next century 
we do not often find those examples of diabolic atrocity with which the earlier an- 
nals are crowded. The savage burned his enemies aUve, it is true, but he seldom 
ate them ; neither did he torment them with the same deliberation and persistency. 
He was a savage stiU, but not so often a devil." (Parkman.) 

The traveller who wishes to study more closely this sublime episode in the New- 
World history may consult the brilliant and picturesque historical narratives of Mr. 
Francis Parkman: "The Jesuits of North America," " The Pioneers of France in 
the New World," and " The Discovery of the Great West." 



276 Route 69. BEAUPORT. 



69. The Environs of Quebec. 

This district is famed for its beauty, and is filled with objects of interest to the 
tourist. The suburban Tillages can be visited by pedestrian tours ; but in that 
case it is best to cut off communication -with the city, and to sweep around on the 
great curve which includes the chief points of attraction. The village inns furnish 
poor accommodations. Such a walking tour should be taken only after a season of 
dry weather, else the roads will be found very muddy. But all the world goes about 
in carriages here, and a caleche and driver can be hired at very low rates (see page 
255). The drivers' statements of distances can seldom be rehed on, for they gen- 
erally err on the side of" expansion. 

"I don't know whether I cared more for Quebec or the beautiful httle villages in 
the country all about it. The whole landscape looks just like a dream of ' Evan- 
geline.' .... But if we are coming to the grand and beautiful, why, there is no 
direction in which you can look about Quebec without seeing it ; and it is always 
mixed up with something so familiar and homelike that my heart warms to it." 
(HowELLs's A Chance Acquaintance.) 

** The Falls of Montmorenci are 7 M. from the Dorchester Bridge, 
which is about 1 M, from the Upper-Town Market Square. The route 
usually taken leads down Palace St, and by the Queen's Fuel- Yard (see 
page 271) and St. Roch's Church. As the bridge is being crossed, the 
Marine Hospital is seen on the 1., and on the r. are the shipyards of St. 
Roch's Ward and the suburb of St, Charles. The road is broad and firm, 
and leads across a fertile plain, with fine retrospective views. The Beau- 
port Lunatic Asylum is soon reached, near which is the villa of Glenalla. 
The asylum formerly consisted of two large buildings, one for each sex; 
but the female department was destroyed by fire in January, 1875, and. 
several of its inmates were burnt with it. Beauport is 3^-5 M. from 
Quebec, and is a long-drawn-out village of 1,300 inhabitants, with a tall 
and stately church whose twin spires are seen from a great distance. 
There are several flour and barley mills in the parish, and a considerable 
lumber business is done. The seigniory was founded in 1634 by the Sieur 
Giffard, and along its plains was some of the heaviest fighting of the war 
of the Conquest of Canada. 

It is " in that part of Canada which was the first to be settled, and where the face 
of the country and the people have undergone the least change from the beginning, 
where the influence of the States and of Europe is least felt, and the, inhabitants see 
little or nothing of the world over the walls of Quebec." The road from Quebec to 
St. Joachim is lined by a continuous succession of the quaint and solid little Cana- 
dian houses of whitewashed stone, placed at an angle with the street in order to 
face the south. The farms are consequently remarkably narrow (sometimes but a 
few yards wide and J M. long), and the country is bristling with fences. In 1664 
the French king forbade that the colonists should make any more clearings, " except 
one next to another " ; but in 1745 he was obliged to order that their farms should 
be not less than 1^ arpents wide. These narrow domains arose from the social char- 
acter of the people, who were thus brought close together ; from their need of con- 
centration as a defence against the Indians ; and from the subdivision of estates by 
inheritance. The Latin Catholicism of the villagers is shown by roadside crosses 
rising here and there along the way. 

So late as 1827 Montmorenci County (which is nearly as large as Massachusetts) 
had but 5 shops, 30 artisans, 2 schools, 5 churches (all Catholic), and 5 vessels (with 
an aggregate of 59 tons). There has been bu^ little change since. In 1861, out of 
11,136 inhabitants in the county, 10,708 were of French origin, of whom but a few 
score understand the Enghsh language. 



MONTMORENCI FALLS. Route 69. 277 

M. Rameau ("ia France aux Colonies''^) has proved, after much labor and re- 
search, that the colonists who settled the Cote de Beaupr(5 and Beauport were from 
the ancient French province of La Perche ; adding that Montreal was colonized from 
the province of Anjou, the Isle of Orleans from Poitou, and Quebec, Trois Rivieres, 
and the Richelieu valley from Normandy. 

Beyond the church of Beauport the road continues past the narrow do- 
mains on either hand, and runs along the side of the Haldimand estate. The 
]\Iontmorenci Eiver is crossed, and the traveller stops at the Montmorenci 
Restaurant, where lunch may be obtained. At this point admission is 
given to the grounds about the Falls (fee, 25c.); and the tourist should 
visit not only the pavilion near the brink (which commands a charming 
view of Quebec), but also the small platform lower down (and reached by 
a long stairway), whence the best front-view is obtained. The descent to 
the basin below is difficult, and will hardly repay the labor of the return. 
A short distance below the Falls is the confluence of the Montmorenci 
with the St. Lawrence, and immense saw-mills are located there, employ- 
ing 7 - 800 men and cutting up 2,500 logs a day. Near the Falls is Haldi- 
mand House, formerly occupied by the Duke of Kent, Queen Victoria's 
father; and on the cliffs by the river are seen the towers of a suspension- 
bridge which fell soon after its erection, hurling three persons into the 
fatal abyss below. At the foot of these Falls an immense ice-cone (some- 
times 200 ft, high) is formed every winter, and here the favorite sport of 
tobogginning is carried on. The * Natural Steps are 1^ M, above the 
Falls, where the Montmorenci is contracted into a narrow limit and rushes 
down with great velocity, having cut its bed down through successive 
strata and leaving step-like terraces on either side. Fine specimens of 
trilobites have been found in this vicinity. 

The road running on beyond the Montmorenci Restaurant leads to Ange 
Gardien and St. Anne (see Route 70). The views on the way back to 
Quebec are very beautiful. 

The old French habitans call the Montmorenci Fall, La Vacke ("The Cow"), on 
account of the resemblance of its foaming waters to milk. Others attribute this 
name to the noise hke the lowing of a cow which is made by the Fall during the 
prevalence of certain winds. Immediately about the basin and along the Mont- 
morenci River, many severe actions took place during Wolfe's siege of Quebec. 
This river was for a time the location of the picket-lines of the British and French 
armies. 

" It is a very simple and noble fall, and leaves nothing to be desired It is a 

splendid introduction to the scenery of Quebec. Instead of an artificial fountain in 
its square, Quebec has this magnificent natural waterfall to adorn one side of its 
harbor." (Thoreau.) 

" The effect on the beholder is most deUghtful. The river, at some distance, 
seems suspended in the air, in a sheet of billowy foam, and, contrasted, as it is, 
with the black frowning abyss into which it falls, it is an object of the highest in- 
terest. It has been compared to a white ribbon, suspended in the air ; this com- 
parison does justice to the delicacy, but not to the grandeur of the cataract." (Sm- 

UMAN.) 

" A safe platform leads along the rocks to a pavilion on a point at the side of the 
fall, and on a level with it. Here the gulf, nearly 300 ft. deep, with its walls of 
chocolate-covered earth, and its patches of emerald herbage, wet with eternal spray, 
opens to the St. Lawrence. Montmorenci is one of the loveliest waterfalls. In its 



278 BcuteeO. IXDIAX LOKETTE. 

general character it bears some resemblance to the Pisijie-Tache. in Swirzerland, 
■w-hich, however, is much smaller. The water is snow-white, tintei^l, in the heaviest 
portions of the tall, with a soft yellow, Uke that of raw silk. In foct, broken as it is 
by the irregular evlge of the rook, it reminds one of masses of silken, flossy skeins, 
continually overlapping one another as they fell. At the bottom, dashed upon a 
pile of rocks, it shoots ft.r out in star-like n\dii of spray, which share the regular 
throb or pulsation of the felling masses. The edges of the fall flutter out into 
laee-like points and fringes, which dissolve into gaiue as they descend." (^Baiard 
Tatlor.) 

" The Falls cf Montmorenci present the most majestic spectacle in all this vicin- 
ity, and even in the rrovinee. The river, in its course through a country which is 
coven?d with an almost unbroken forest, has an inconsiderable flow of water except 
■when swellevl by the melting of the snow or the autiuunal rains, until it reaches the 
precipice, where it is S - 10 fethoms wide. Its bed, being inclined before arriving at 
this point, gives a grtat velocity to the current, which, pushed on to the verge of a 
perpendicular rock'i forms a large sheet of water of a whiteness and a fleecy appear- 
ance which resembles snow, in felling in a chasm among the rooks [251] it. below. 
At the bottom there rises an immense foam in undulating masses, which, when 
the sun hghts up their brilliant prismatic colors, produces an inconceivably beauti- 

fill effect.^- (BOCCHETTE.) 

" For those who go firom Montmorenci to Quebec, the time to be on the road is 
about stmset. The city, climbing up from the great river to the heights, on which 
stands the castle, looks especially beautiful in the warm light that then fells full upon 
it, and the level rays, striking on the quaint old metal-sheathed roofs and on all the 
•westward-feeing window? , light up the town with a diamond-like sparkling of -won- 
derful brilliancy." ("VThiie's Sketches fram America.) 

* Indian Lorette (.small inn) is 9 ^M. from Quebec, br the Little Eiver 
Eoad. I: is an ancient village of the Hnrons ("•Catholics and allies of 
France"), and the present inhabitants are a quiet and reUgious people in 
-whom the Indian blood predominates, though it is never immixed. The 
men hunt and fish, the women make bead-work and moccasons, and the 
boys earn pennies by dexterous archery. There are 60 Huron famihes 
here, and their quaint little church is worthy of notice. The population 
of the parish is 3,500, and the district is devoted to farming. The 
* Lorette Falls are near the mill, and are very pretty. 

The best description of Lorette is given in HoweUs's A Chance Acquaintance 
(Chap. XIII. ). from -which the folio-wing note is extracted : " The road to Lorette is 
through St. John's Gate, do-sm into the outlying meadows and rye-fields, -where, 
crossing and recrossins the s-svift St. Charles, it'finally rises at Lorette above the level 
of the citadel. It is a" lonelier road than that to Montmorenci. and the scattering 
cottases upon it have not the well-to-do prettiness. the operatic repair, of stone-biult 
Beauport. But they are charming, nevertheless, and the people seem to be remoter 

from modem influences By and by they came to Jeune-Lorette, an almost 

ideally pretty hamlet, bordering the road on either hand -with galleried and balconied 
little houses", from which the people bowed to them as they -passed, and piously en- 
closing in its midst the vUlage church and chiurchyard. They soon after reached 
Lorette itself, which they might easily have kno-wn for an Indian to-wn by its un- 
kempt air, and the irregular" attitudes in which the shabby cabins lounged along 

the lanes that wandered" through it The cascade, with two or three successive 

leaps above the road, plunges headlong do-sm a steep, crescent-shaped slope, and 
hides its foamy whiteness m the dark-foliaged ra-vine below. It is a wonder of 
grace tul motion, of iridescent hghts and delicious shado-ws ; a shape of loveliness that 
seems instinct with a conscious life." 

Charles Marshall says, in his *• Canadian Dominion " ^London. 1S71") : " For pic- 
turesque beauty the environs of Quebec vie with those of any city in the -world. 
.... It is not too much to say that the Lorette cascades would give feme and for- 
tune to any spot in England or" France ; yec here, dwarfed by grander waters, they 
remain comparatiTely unknown.-' 



CHARLESBOURG. Route 69. 279 

When the French came to Canada the Hurons were a powerful nation on the 
shores of Lakes Huron and Simcoe, with 32 villages and 20-30,000 inhabitants. 
They received the Jesuit missionaries gladly, and were speedily converted to Chris- 
tianity. Many of them wore their hair in bristling ridges, whence certain aston- 
ished Frenchmen, on first seeing them, exclaimed " (^^uelles hures! " (" What boars' 
heads I ") and the name of Huron supplanted their proper title of Ouendat or Wyan- 
dot. The Iroquois, or Five Nations (of New York), were their mortal foes, and after 
many years of most barbarous warfare, succeeded in storming the Christian Huron 
towns of St. Joseph, St. Ignace, and St. Louis. The nation was annihilated : a few 
of its people fled to the far West, and are now known as the Wyandots ; multitudes 
were made slaves among the Iroquois villages ; 10,000 were killed in battle or in the 
subjugated towns ; and the mournful remnant fled to Quebec. Hundreds of them 
were swept away from the Isle of Orleans by a daring Iroquois raid ; the survivors 
encamped under the guiLS of the fort for 10 years, then moved to St. Foy ; and, about 
the year 1673, this feeble fragment of the great Huron nation settled at Ancienne 
Lorette. It was under the care of the Jesuit Chaumonot, who, while a mere boy, 
had stolen a small sum of money and fled from France into Lombardy. In filth and 
poverty he begged his way to Ancona, and thence to Loretto, where, at the Holy 
House, he had an angelic vision. He went to Rome, became a Jesuit, and experi- 
enced another miracle from Loretto ; after which he passed to the Hviron mission 
in Canada, where he was dehvered from martyrdom by the aid of St. Michael. He 
erected at Ancienne Lorette a chapel in exact fac-simile of the Holy House at Lo- 
retto ; and here he claimed that many miracles were performed. In 1697 the 
Hurons moved to New Lorette, ' ' a wild spot, covered with the primitive forest, 
and seamed by a deep and tortuous ravine, where the St. Charles foams, white as a 
snow-drift, over the black ledges, and where the sunshine struggles through matted 
boughs of the pine and the fir, to bask for brief moments on the mossy rocks or 
flash on the hurrying waters. On a plateau beside the torrent, another chapel was 
built to Our Lady, and another Huron town sprang up ; and here to this day, the 
tourist finds the remnant of a lost people, harmless weavers of baskets and sewers 
of moccasons, the Huron blood fast bleaching out of them, as, with every generation, 
they mingle and fade away in the French population around." (Paekman. ) 

Visitors to Lorette are recommended to return to Quebec by another 
road from that on which they went out. Ancienne Lorette may be reached 
from this point, and so may the lakes of Beauport and St. Charles. Ig 
days' journey to the N. is Lac Rond, famous for its fine hunting and fishing. 

Charlesbourg (Huot's boarding-house) is 4 M. from Quebec, on a far- 
viewing ridge, and is clustered about a venerable convent and old church 
(with copies of the Last Communion of St. Jerome and the Sistine Ma- 
donna over its altars). It is the chef -lieu of the seigniory of Notre Dame 
des Anges, and its products are lumber and oats. To this point (then 
known as Bourg Royal) retired the inhabitants of the Isle of Orleans, in 
1759, when ordered by Montcalm to fall back before the British. They 
were 2,500 in number, and were led by their cur^s. Pleasant roads lead 
from Charlesbourg to Lorette, Lake St, Charles, Lake Beauport, and Cha- 
teau Bigot. 

Lake St. Charles is 11 M. from Quebec, and 6 M. from Lorette. It is 
4 M. long, and its waters are very clear and deep. The red trout of this 
lake are of delicate flavor. There is a remarkable echo from the shores. 

«' On arriving at the vicinity of the lake, the spectator is delighted by the beauty 

and picturesque wildness of its banks Trees grow immediately on the borders 

of the water, which is indented by several points advancing into it, and forming lit- 
tle bays. The lofty hills which suddenly rise towards the N., in shapes singular 
and diversified, are overlooked by mountains which exalt, beyond them, their more 
distant summits." (Heeiot.) 



280 Route 69. CHATEAU BIGOT. 

Ch§,teau Bigot is about 7 M. from Quebec, by way of Charlesbourg, 
where the traveller turns to the r. around the church, and rides for 2 M. 
along a ridge which affords charming views of the city on the r. " It is a 
lovely road out to Chateau Bigot. First you drive through the ancient 
suburbs of the Lower Town, and then you mount the smooth, hard high- 
way, between pretty country-houses, towards the village of Charlesbourg, 
while Quebec shows, to your casual backward glance, like a wondrous 
painted scene, with the spires and lofty roofs of the Upper Town, and the 
long, irregular wall wandering on the verge of the cliff; then the thronging 
gables and chimneys of St. Koch, and again many spires and convent 
walls." The ruins of the Chateau are only reached after driving for some 
distance through a narrow wheel-track, half overgrown with foliage. There 
remain the gables and division-wall, in thick masonry, with a deep cellar, 
outside of which are heaps of debris, over which grow alders and lilacs. 
The ruins are in a cleared space over a little brook where trout are 
found ; and over it is the low and forest-covered ridge of La Montague des 
Ormes. 

This land was in the Fiefde la Trinite, which was granted about the year 1640 to 
M. Denis, of La Rochelle. The chateau was built for his feudal mansion by the 
Royal Intendant Talon, Baron des Islets, and was afterwards occupied by the last 
Royal Intendant, M. Bigot, a dissolute and licentious French satrap, who stole 
$2,000,000 from the treasury. The legend tells that Bigot used this building for a 
hunting-lodge and place of revels, and that once, while pursuing a bear among the 
hills, he got lost, and was guided back to the chslteau by a lovely Algonquin maiden 
whom he had met in the forest. She remained in this building for a long time, in 
a luxurious boudoir, and was visited frequently by the Intendant ; but one night 
she was assassinated by some unknown person, — either M. Bigot's wife, or her own 
mother, avenging the dishonor to her tribe (see " Chateau Bigot," by J. M. LeMoine, 
sold at the Quebec bookstores for 10c. ; also Howells's A Chance Acquaintance, 
Chap. XII.). 

Sillery (or St. Colomb) is 3 M. from Quebec, by the Grand AU^e and 
the Cap-Eouge Road (see page 270). After passing Wolfe's Monument, 
the road leads across the Plains of Abraham, on which were fought the 
sanguinary battles of 1759 and 1760. Sillery is a parish of 3,000 inhab- 
itants, on whose river front are 17 coves, where most of the lumber of 
Quebec is guarded. The Convent of Jesus-3faria is a new building of great 
size and imposing architecture ; opposite which is the handsome Gothic 
school-house which was given to this parish by Bishop Mountain. In the 
vicinity of Sillery are several fine villas, amid ornamental grounds : March- 
mont, once the home of Sir John Harvey and Bishop Stewart; Spencer 
Wood, " the most beautiful domain of Sillery, or, it can be said, of Canada," 
with a park of 80 acres, formerly the home of the Earl of Elgin and other 
Canadian governors; Woodfield, founded by the Bishop of Samos inparti- 
hus infidelium ; Spencer Grange, where lives J. M. LeMoine, the author 
and antiquarian; Bardfield, Bishop Mountain's former home; Cataracouy, 
where the British princes, Albert Edward and Alfred, sojourned; Benmore, 
Col. Rhodes's estate ; and several others. The beautiful cemetery of Mount 



CAP KOUGE. Route 69. 281 

HermoD, •which was laid out by Major Douglas, the planner of Greenwood 
Cemetery, is in this vicinity, and is adorned by the graceful chapel of St. 
Michael. The people of Sillery. have recently (1870) erected a monument, 
sustaining a marble cross, near the place where Father Masse was buried, 
in 1646, in the ancient Church of St. Michael (which has long since dis- 
appeared). The old Jesuit Residence still remains, and is a massive build- 
ing of stone. 

The Chevalier Noel Brulart de Sillery, Knight of Malta, and formerly a high offi- 
cer at the court of Queen Marie de Medicis, having renounced the world, devoted his 
vast revenues to religious purposes. Among his endowments was the foundation of 
a Christian Algonquin village just ahove Quebec, which the Jesuits named Sillery, 
in his honor. Here the Abenaquis of Maine learned the elements of Catholicism, 
which was afterwards unfolded to them in their villages on the Kennebec, by Father 
Druilletes. This worthy old clergyman followed them in their grand hunts about 
Moosehead Lake and the northern forests, " with toil too great to buy the kingdoms 
of this world, but very small as a price for the Kingdom of Heaven." From the 
mission-house at Sillery departed Jogues, Br^beuf, Lalemant, and many other heroic 
missionaries and martyrs of the primitive Canadian Church. "It was the scene of 
miracles and martyrdoms, and marvels of many kinds, and the centre of the mis- 
sionary efforts among the Indians. Indeed, few events of the picturesque early his- 
tory of Quebec left it untouched ; and it is worthy to be seen, no less for the wild 
beauty of the spot than for its heroical memories. About a league from the city, 
where the irregular wall of rock on which Quebec is built recedes from the river, 
and a grassy space stretches between the tide and the foot of the woody steep, the 
old mission and the Indian village once stood ; and to this day there yet stands the 
stalwart frame of the first Jesuit Residence, modernized, of course, and turned to 
secular uses, but firm as of old, and good for a century to come. All around is a 
world of lumber, and rafts of vast extent cover the face of the waters in the ample 
cove, — one of many that indent the shore of the St. Lawrence. A careless village 
straggles along the roadside and the river's margin ; huge lumber-ships are loading 
for Europe in the stream ; a town shines out of the woods on the opposite shore ; 
nothing but a friendly climate is needed to make this one of the most charming 
scenes the heart coTild imagine." 

Cap Rouge is 9 M. from Quebec, and may be reached by the road which 
passes through Sillery. It is a village of 800 inhabitants, with a timber- 
trade and a large pottery ; and is connected with Quebec by semi-daily 
stages. The cape forms the W. end of the great plateau of Quebec, which, 
according to the geologists, was formerly an island, around which the St. 
Lawrence flowed down the St. Charles valley. It is thought that the 
Grand Trunk Eailway will throw a suspension-bridge over the St. Law- 
rence at this point, being forced to bring its trains into Quebec by the com- 
petition of the North-Shore Eailway. The mansion of Redclyffe is on the 
cape, and is near the site where Jaques Cartier and Eoberval passed the 
winters of 1541 and 1542. On the same point batteries were erected by 
Montcalm and Murray. 

Li returning from Cap Eouge to the city, it may be well to turn to the 
1. at St. Albans and gain the St. Foy road. The village of St. Foy is 5 
M. from Quebec, and contains many pleasant villas and mansions. To the 
N. is the broad and smiling valley of the St. Charles, in which may be 
seen Ancienne Lorette (two inns), a lumbering village of 3,000 inhabitants, 
on the Gosford Eailway, 4^ M. from St. Foy. Beyond the Church of St. 



282 Route 69. POINT LEVI. 

Foy is the * monumental column, surmounted by a statue of Bellona (pre- 
sented by Prince Napoleon), which marks the site of the fiercest part of 
the Second Battle of the Plains, in which De Levis defeated Murray (1760). 
The monument was dedicated with great pomp in 1854, and stands over 
the grave of many hundreds who fell in the fight. Passing now the 
handsome Finlay Asylum and several villas, the subui'b of St. John is 
entered. 

Point Levi (or Levis) is on the S. shore of the St. Lawrence, opposite 
Quebec, with which it is connected by ferry-boats running every 15 min- 
utes. It has about 10,000 inhabitants, with a large and increasing trade, 
being the terminus of the Quebec branch of the Grand Trunk Eailway and 
of the (as yet uncompleted) Levis & Kennebec Railway. On the lofty 
plateau beyond the town are the great forts which have been erected to 
defend Quebec from a second bombardment from this shore. They are 
three in number, 1 M. apart, solidly built of masonry and earth, with large 
casemates and covered ways ; and are to be armed with Moncrieff guns of 
the heaviest calibre. It is said that these forts cost $ 15,000,000, —a 
palpable exaggeration, — but they have been a very expensive piece of 
work, and are said to be more neai-ly like Cherbourg, the best of modem 
European fortifications, than any others in America. The batteries with 
which Gen. Wolfe destroyed Quebec, in 1759, were located on this line of 
heights. 

St. Joseph is 2^ M. from Point Levi, and transacts a large business in 
wood and timber. South Quebec is above Point Levi, and is closely con- 
nected with it. The Liverpool steamers stop here, and there are great 
shipments of lumber from the harbor. The town has 3,000 inhabitants, 
and is growing rapidly. 

St. Eomuald (or New Liverpool) is 5 M. from Quebec, and adjoins S. 

Quebec. It has several factories and mills and a large lumber-trade, and 

is connected with Quebec by semi-daily steamers. The * Church of St. 

Bomuald is "the finest on the Lower St. Lawrence," and is celebrated 

for its paintings (executed in 1868 - 9 by Lamprech of Munich). 

In the choir are the Nativity, Crucifixion, and Resurrection of Christ ; in the 
Chapel of St. Joseph, the Marriage of St. Joseph, the Flight ioto Egypt, Nazareth, 
Jesus and the Doctors, the Death of St. Joseph ; in the Chapel of the Virgin, the 
Annunciation, the Visitation, the Adoration of the Magi, and the Presentation in 
the Temple. Above are eight scenes from the life of St. Romuald, from his Conver- 
sion to his Apotheosis. There are 16 medallions on a gold ground, representing Sts. 
Peter and Paul, the Four Evangelists, and five doctors of the Greek Church and 
five of the Latin Church. The altars were designed by Schneider of Munich, and 
the statues were carved in wood by Rudmiller of Munich. 

The * Chandiere Falls are 4^ M. beyond St. Eomuald, and over 9 M. 
from Quebec. They can only be reached by walking a considerable dis- 
tance through the bordering fields. " The deep green foliage of the woods 
overhanging, the roar of the cataract, and the solitude of the place, espe- 
cially as you emerge suddenly from the forest fastnesses on the scene, pro- 



ENVIRONS OF CHARLOTTETOWN. Route 70. 283 

duce a strong and vivid impression, not soon to be forgotten." Some 
visitors even prefer this fall to that of Montmorenci. The Chaudiere de- 
scends from Lake Megantic, near the frontier of Maine, traversing the 
Canadian gold-fields. Arnold's hungry and heroic army followed the 
course of this river from its source to its mouth in their arduous winter- 
march, in 1775. The Chaudiere Falls are 3 M. from its confluence with 
the St. Lawrence, and at a point where the stream is compressed into a 
breadth of 400 ft. The depth of the plunge is about 135 ft., and the 
waters below are continually in a state of turbulent tossing. At the verge 
of the fall the stream is divided by large rocks, forming three channels, of 
which that on the W. is the largest. The view from the E. shore is the 
best. " The wild diversity of rocks, the foliage of the overhanging woods, 
the rapid motion, the effulgent brightness and deeply solemn sound of the 
cataracts, all combine to present a rich assemblage of objects highly 
attractive, especially when the visitor, emerging from the wood, is in- 
stantaneously surprised by the delightful scene." 

70. Quebec to La Bonne Ste. Anne.— The Cote de Beaupre. 

The steamer Montmorenci runs from Quebec to St. Anne twice a week. A bet- 
ter route is that by land, through the mediaeval hamlets of the Cote de Beaupr^. 
Three days should be devoted to the trip, — one to go and one to return, and the 
other to the Falls of St. Anne and St. Fereol. Gentlemen who understand French 
will find this district very interesting for the scene of a pedestrian tour. The inns 
at St. Anne and along the road are of a very humble character, resembling the way- 
side auberges of Brittany or Normandy ; but the people are courteous and well- 
disposed. 

Distances. — Quebec to the Montmorenci Falls, 7 M. ; Ange Gardien, 10; 
Chateau Richer, 15 ; St. Anne, 22 (St. Joachun, 27 ; St. Fereol, 30). 

The Seigniory of the Cote de Beaupre contains several parishes of the N. shore, 
and is the most mountainous part of the Province. It was granted in 1636, and is 
at present an appanage of the Seminary of Quebec. No rural district N. of Mexico 
is more quaint and mediaeval than the Beaupre Road, with its narrow and ancient 
farms, its low and massive stone houses, roadside crosses and chapels, and unpro- 
gressive French population. But few districts are more beautiful than this, with 
the broad St. Lawrence on the S., and the garden-like Isle of Orleans ; the towers 
of Quebec on the W., and the sombre ridges of Cape Tourmente and the mountains 
of St. Anne and St. Fereol in advance. " In the inhabitant of the Cote de Beaupre 
you find the Norman peasant of the reign of Louis XIV., with his annals, his songs, 
and his superstitions." (Abb^; Ferland.) 

"Though all the while we had grand views of the adjacent country far up and 
down the river, and, for the most part, when we turned about, of Quebec, in the 
horizon behind us, — and we never beheld it without new surprise and admiration, 
— yet, throughout our walk, the Great River of Canada on our right hand was the 
main feature in the landscape, and this expands so rapidly below the Isle of Orleans, 
and creates such a breadth of level surface above its waters in that direction, that, 
looking down the river as we approached the extremity of that island, the St. Law- 
rence seemed to be opening into the ocean, though we were still about 325 M. from 
what can be called its mouth." (Thoreau.) 

Quebec to the Montmorenci Falls, see page 276. 

Beyond the Falls the road passes on over far-viewing and breezy hills, 
and between the snug estates of the rural farmers with their great barns 
and exposed cellars (caves). The village of Ange Gardien is guarded at 



284 Route 70. CHATEAU RICHEE. 

each end by roadside oratories, and lies in a sheltered glen near the river. 
It is clustered about a venerable old church, in which are paintings of the 
Annunciation and the Adoration of the Magi. On its front is a large sun- 
dial. This dreamy old parish has 1,500 inhabitants, and dates from 1678, 
when it was founded by Bishop Laval. In 1759 it was overrun and occu- 
pied by the famous British corps of the Louisbourg Grenadiers. 

After ascending out of the glen of Ange Gardien, the road crosses ele- 
vated bluffs, and on the r. are rich and extensive intervales, cut into nar- 
row strips by walls. They extend to the margin of the river, beyond 
which are the white villages and tin-clad spires of the Isle of Orleans. 

Chateau Eicher is a compact and busy village of 2,000 inhabitants, 

over which, on a bold knoll, is the spacious parish-church. The views 

from the platform of this edifice are very pretty, including a large area of 

the parish, the village of St. Pierre on the Isle of Orleans, and the distant 

promontory of Cape Diamond. During the hunting season the Chateau- 

Eicher marshes are much frequented by Quebec sportsmen, who shoot 

great numbers of snipe, ducks, and partridges. The upland streams afford 

good trout-fishing. 

On a rocky promontory near Chateau Richer -was the site of the ancient Francis- 
can monastery. This massive stone building was erected about the year 1695, and 
was occupied by a community of peaceful monks. When the British army was 
fighting the French near the Falls of Montmorenci, a detachment was sent here to 
get provisions ; but the French villagers, under the influence of their spiritual 
guides, refused to give aid, and fortified themselves in the monastery. The reduc- 
tion of this impromptu fortress gave Gen. Wolfe considerable trouble, and it was 
only accomplished by sending against it the valiant Louisbourg Grenadiers and a 
section of artillery. The monks surrendered after their walls were well battered by 
cannon-shot, and were dispossessed by the troops. Before the bombardment the 
parish priest met the English ofiicers, and told them that they fought for their king, 
and he should be as fearless in defending his people. The villagers made a fierce 
sortie from the convent during the siege, but were repulsed with the loss of 30 killed. 
The site of the monastery is now occupied by the school of the Sisters of Le Bon 
Pasteur, and part of its walls still remain- 

The little roadside auherge called the Hotel Campagne is about 1 M. be- 
yond Chateau Richer. The *Sault a la Puce is about 2 M. beyond the 
village, and is visited by leaving the road where it crosses the Eiviere a la 
Puce, and ascending to the 1. by the path. The stream leaps over a long 
cliff, falling into the shadows of a bowery glen, and has been likened to 
the Cauterskill Falls. 

"This fall of La Puce, the least remarkable of the four which we visited in this 
vicinity, we had never heard of until we came to Canada, and yet, so far as I know, 
there is nothing of the kind in New England to be compared with it. Most travel- 
lers in Canada would not hear of it, though they might go so near as to hear it." 
(Thoreau.) There are other pretty cascades farther up the stream, but they are 
difficult of access. 

" The lower fall is 112 ft. in height, and its banks, formed by elevated acclivities, 
wooded to their summits, spread around a solemn gloom, which the whiteness, the 
movements, and the noise of the descending waters combine to make interesting 

and attractive The environs of this river display , in miniature, a succession of 

romantic views. The river, from about one fourth of the height of the mountain, 



LA BOXXE ST. AXXE. Route 70. 285 

discloses itself to the contemplation of the spectator, and delights his ere with varied 
masses of shining foam, which, suddenly issuing from a deep ravine hollowed out by 
the waters, glide down the almost perpendicular rock, and form a splendid curtain, 
which loses itself amid the foliage of surrounding woods. Such is the scene which 
the fall of La Puce exhibits."' (ELeriot.) 

La Bonne St. Anne (otherwise known as St. Anne du Xord and St. 
Anne de Beaupr^) is 7 M. beyond Chateau Eicher, and is built on a level 
site just above the intervales. It has about 1,200 inhabitants, and is sup- 
ported by the thousands of pilgrims who frequent its shrine, and by sup- 
plying brick to the Quebec market. Immense numbers of wild fowl 
(especially pigeons) are killed here every year. There are numerous small 
inns in the narrow street, all of which are crowded during the season of 
pilgrimage. On the E. of the village is the new Church of St. Anne, a 
massive and beautiful structure of gray stone, in classic architecture, 
■which will probably be completed in 1876. The old building of the 
* Church of St. Anne is on the bank just above, and is probably the most 
highly venerated shrine in Anglo-Saxon America. The relics of St. Anne 
are guarded in a crystal globe, and are exhibited at morning mass, when 
their contemplation is said to have effected many miraculous cures. Over 
the richly adorned high altar is a * picture of St Anne, by the famous 
French artist, Le Brun (presented by Viceroy Tracy); and the side altars 
have paintings (given by Bishop Laval) by the Franciscan monk Lefran- 
gois (who died in 1685). There are numerous rude ex-voto paintings, rep- 
resenting marvellous deliverances of ships in peril, through the aid of St. 
Anne ; and along the cornices and in the sacristy are great sheaves of 
crutches, left here by cripples and invalids who claimed to have been 
healed by the intercession of the saint. Within the church is the tomb 
of Philippe Een6 de Portneuf, priest of St. Joachim, who was slain, with 
several of his people, while defending his parish against the British troops 
(1759). 

" Above all, do not fail to make your pUgrimage to the shrine of St. Anne 

Here, when Aillebout was governor, he began with his own hands the pious work, and 
a habitant of Beaupr6, Louis Guimont, sorely aflSicted with rheumatism, came grin- 
ning with pain to lay three stones in the foundation, in honor probably of St. Anne, 
St. Joachim, and their daughter, the Virgin. Instantly he was cured. It was but 
the beginning of a long course of miracles continued more than two centuries, and 
continuing still. Their fame spread far and wide. The devotion to St. Anne be- 
came a distinguishing feature of Canadian Catholicity, till at the present day at 
least thirteen parishes bear her name Sometimes the whole shore was cov- 
ered with the wigwams of Indian converts who had paddled their birch canoes from 
the farthest wilds of Canada. The more fervent among them would crawl on their 
knees from the shore to the altar. And, in our own day, every summer a far greater 
concourse of pilgrims, not in paint and feathers, but in cloth and millinerv, and not 
in canoes, but in steamboats, bring their offerings and their vows to the 'Bonne St. 
Anne."" (Parkmax.) 

According to the traditions of the Roman Church, St. Anne was the mother of 
the Blessed Virgin, and after her body had reposed for some years in the cathedral 
at Jerusalem, it was sent by St. James to St. Lazare, first bishop of Marseilles. He, 
in turn, sent it to St. Auspice, bishop of Apt, who placed it in a subterranean 
chapel to guard it from profanation in the approaching heathen inroads. Barbariau 
hordes afterwards swept over Apt and obliterated the church. 700 years later, 



286 lipute 70. THE FALLS OF ST. ANNE. 

Charlemagne yisit^ the town, and while attending service in the cathedral, several 
marTellous incidents took place, and the forgotten remaias of St. Anne were recov- 
ered from the grotto, whence a perpetual light was seen and a delicious fragrance 
emanated. Ever since that day the relics of the saint have been highly venerated 
in France. The colonists who founded Canada brought with them this special de- 
votion, and erected numerous churches in her honor, the chief of which was St. 
Anne de Beaupiv, which was founded in 1658 by Gov. d'Aillebout on the estate pre- 
sented by Etienne Lessart. In 166S the cathedral-chapter of Carcasson sent to this 
new shrine a relic of St. Anne (a bone of the hand), together with a lamp and a 
reliquary of silver, and some fine paintings. The legend holds that a little child 
was thrice favored with heavenly visions, on the site of the church ; and that, on 
her third appearance, the Virgin commanded the little one to tell the people that 
they should build a church on that spot. The completion of the building was sig- 
nalized by a remarkable miracle. The vessels ascending the St. Lawrence during 
the French domination, always fired oflf a saluting broadside when passing this 
point, in recognition of their 'delivery &«m the perils of the sea. Bishop Laval 
made St. Anne's Day a feast of obhgation ; and rich ex-voto gifts were placed in the 
church by the Intendant Talon, the 5larquis de Tracy , and M. d'lberville, " the Cid of 
New France." For over two centuries the pilgrimages have been almost incessant, 
and hundreds of miraculous cures have been attributed to La Bonne St. Anne. Be- 
tween June and October, ISTi, over 20,000 pilgrims visited the church, some of whom 
came from France and some from the United States. An extract from a Lower- 
Canada newspaper of October, IST-i, describes one of the latest of these curious 
phenomena, the curing of a woman who had been bedridden for 4 years: ''She 
was placed in the Church of St. Anne, on a portable bed, at 6 o'clock on Wednesday 
morning. After low mass she was made to venerate the rehcs of St. Anne. A 
grand mass was chanted a few minutes afterwards. Toward the middle of the divine 
office the patient moved a httle. After the elevation she sat up. At the termina- 
tion of the mass she got up and walked and made the circuit of the church." 

The Cote de Beaupre and the site of St. Anne were granted by the Compagnie des 
Cents Associes, in 1636, to the Sieur ChefFault de la Regnardiere, who, however, 
made but little progress in settling this broad domain, and finally sold it to Bishop 
Laval. In 1661, after the fall of Montreal, this district was ravaged by the merciless 
Iroquois, and in 16S2 St. Anne was garrisoned by three companies of French regu- 
lars. On the 23d of August, 1759, St. Arme was attacked by 300 Highlanders and 
Light Infantry and a company of Rangers, under command of Capt. Montgomery. 
The place was defended by 2iX) villagers and Indians, who kept up so hot a fire from 
the shelter of the houses that the assailants were forced to halt and wait until a 
flanking movement had been made by the Rangers. Many of the Canadians were 
slain during their retreat, and all who fell into the hands of the British were put to 
death. The victors then burnt the village, saving only the ancient church, in 
which they made their quarters. A tradition of the country says that they set fire 
to the church three times, but it was delivered by St. Anne. The following day 
they advanced on Chateau Richer and Ange Gardien, burning every house and bam, 
and cutting down the fruit trees and young grain. They were incessantly annoyed 
by the rifles of the countrymen, and gave no quarter to their prisoners. 

The * Falls of St. Anne are visited by passing out froiji St. Anne on 
the road to St. Joachim, as far as the inn, " like an auberge of Brittany," 
at the crossing of the St. Anne Eiver. Thence the way leads up the river- 
bank through dark glens for 3-4 M., and the visitor is conducted by a 
guide. In descending from the plateau to the plain below, the river forms 
seven cascades in a distance of about a league, some of which are of rare 
beauty, and have been preferred even to the Trenton Falls, in New York. 
The lower faU is 130 ft. high. 

" A magnificent spectacle burst upon our sight. A rapid stream, breaking its way 
through the dark woods, and from pool to pool among masses of jagged rock, sud- 
denly cleaves for itself a narrow chasm, over which you may spring if you have an 
ironnerv-e, and then falls, broken into a thousand fantastic forms of spray along the 



1 



ST. JOACHIM.' Rmte70. 287 

Bteep face of the rock, into a deep gorge of horrid darkness. I do not know the toI- 
ume of water ; I forgot to guess the height, — it may be two hundred feet. Figures 
are absurd in the estimate of the beauty and grandeur of a scene like this. I only 
know that the whole impression of the scene was one of the most intense I have ever 
experienced. The disposition of the mass of broken waters is the most graceful con- 
ceivable. The irresistible might of the rush of the fall, the stupendous upright 
masses of black rock that form the chasm ; the heavy fringe of dark woods all 
around; the utter soUtariness and gloom of the scene,— all aid to impress the 
imagination. An artist might prefer this spot to Niagara." (Marshall.) 

" Here the river, 1-200 ft. wide, comes flowing rapidly over a rocky bed out of 
that interesting wilderness which stretches toward Hudson's Bay and Davis's Straits. 
Ha Ha Bay, on the Saguenay, was about 100 M. N. of where we stood. Looking on 
the map, I find that the first country on the N. which bears a name is that part of 
Rupert's Land called East Main. This river, called after the Holy Anne, flowing 
from such a direction, here tumbles over a precipice, at present by three channels, 
how far down I do not know, but far enough for all our purposes, and to as good a 

distance as if twice as far The falUng' water seemed to jar the very rocks, and 

the noise to be ever increasing. The vista was through a narrow and deep cleft in 
the mountain, all white suds at the bottom." From the bed of the stream below 
" rose a perpendicular wall, I will not venture to say how far, but only that it was 

the highest perpendicular wall of bare rock that I ever saw This precipice is 

not sloped, nor is the material soft and crumbling slate as at Montmorenci, but it 
rises perfectly i)erpendicular,Uke the side of a mountain fortress, and is cracked into 
Tast cubical masses of gray and black rock shining with moisture, as if it were the 

ruin of an ancient wall built by Titans Take it altogether, it was a most wild 

and rugg-id and stupendous chasm, so deep and narrow where a river had worn it- 
self a passage through a mountain of rock, and aU around was the comparatively 
untrodden wilderness." (Thoreac.) 

The base of the St. Anne Mts. is reached by a road running up the val- 
ley for 3-5 M. The chief peak is 2,687 ft. high, but the view thence is 
intercepted by trees. The Valley of St. Ftreol is 8 ^l. from St. Anne, and 
is surrounded by beautiful scenery. It contains 1,100 inhabitants, and in 
the vicinity are several lofty and picturesque cascades. St. Tite des Caps 
is a village of 800 inhabitants, 5 'M. from the river, between Cape Tour- 
mente and the St. Fereol ^Mts. The trouting in these glens is very good, 
and rare sport is found at Lahe St. Joachim, several miles beyond. 

St. Joachim is 5 M. beyond St. Anne, and is a village of 1,000 inhabi- 
tants, situated near the river, and opposite St. Fran9ois d' Orleans. 2 M. 
beyond this point is the Chateau Bellevue and the farm of the Quebec 
Seminary. The summit of Cape Tonrmente is about 3 M. from the 
chateau, and is sometimes ascended for the sake of its superb * view. The 
Seminarians have kept a cross upon this peak for the last half-century; 
and in 1869, 44 Catholic gentlemen, led by the Archbishop of Quebec, 
erected a new one, 25 ft. high, and covered with tin. 

The Ch&teau Bellevue is a long and massive building of limestone, situated near 
the foot of Cape Tourmente, and surrounded by noble old forests, in which are 
shrines of St. Joseph and the Virgin. The chjiteau is furnished with reading and 
billiard rooms, etc. , and is occupied every summer by about 40 priests and students 
from the Seminary of Quebec. The neat Chapel of St. Louis de Gonzaga (the pro- 
tector of youth) is S. of the chateau. 

Near this point Jaques Cartier anchored in 1.535, and was visited by the Indians, 
who brought him presents of melons and maize. In 1623 Champlain came hither 
from Quebec and founded a settlement, whose traces are still seen. This post was 
destroyed by Sir David Kirke's men in 1628, and the settlers were driven away. 

St. Joachim was occupied in August, 1759, by 150 of the 78th Highlanders, who 



288 Route 71. THE ISLE OF ORLEANS. 

« 

had just inarched down the Isle of Orleans, through St. Pierre and St. Famille. 
They were engaged in the streets by armed villagers, and had a sharp skirmish, 
before the Canadians were driven into the forest, after which the Scottish soldiers 
fortified themselves in the priest's house, near the church. 

The site of the seminary was occupied before 1670 by Bishop Laval, who founded 
here a rural seminary in which the youth of the peasantry were instructed. They 
were well grounded in the doctrine and discipline of the Church, and were in- 
structed in the mechanic arts and in various branches of farming. This was the 
first " agricultural college " in America. The broad seigniory of the Cote de Beaupr6, 
which lies between St. Joachim and Beauport, was then an appanage of Bishop 
Laval, and was more populous than Quebec itself. "Above the vast meadows of 
the parish of St. Joachim, that here border the St. Lawrence, there rises like an 
island a low flat hill, hedged round with forests, like the tonsured head of a monk. 
It was here that Laval planted his school. Across the meadows, a mile or more dis- 
tant, towers the mountain promontory of Cape Tourmente. You may climb its 
woody steeps, and from the top, waist-deep in blueberry-bushes, survey, from 
Kamouraska to Quebec, the grand Canadian world outstretched below ; or mount 
the neighboring heights of St. Anne, where, athwart the gaunt arms of ancient 
pines, the river lies shimmering in summer haze, the cottages of the habitants are 
strung like beads of a rosary along the meadows of Beaupr^, the shores of Orleans 
bask in warm light, and far on the horizon the rock of Quebec rests like a faint gray 
cloud ; or traverse the forest till the roar of the torrent guides you to the rocky sol- 
itude where it holds its savage revels Game on the river ; trout in lakes, 

brooks, and pools ; wild fruits and flowers on the meadows and mountains ; a thou- 
sand resources of honest and healthful recreation here wait the student emancipated 
from books, but not parted for a moment from the pious influence that hangs about 
the old walls embosomed in the woods of St. Joachim. Around on plains and hills 
stand the dwellings of a peaceful peasantry, as different from the restless population, 
of the neighboring States as the denizens of some Norman or Breton village." (Pakk- 

MAN.) 

71. The Isle of Orleans. 

steam ferry-boats leave Quebec three times daily for the Isle of Orleans. The 
trip gives beautiful views of the city and its marine environs, and of the Mont- 
morenci Falls and the St. Anne Mts. 

The island is traversed by two roads. The N. shore road passes from "West Point 
to St. Pierre, in 5 M. ; St. Famille, MM.; and St. Francois, 20 M. The S. shore 
road runs from West Point to Patrick's Hole, in 6 M. ; St. Laurent, 7J ; St. John, 
13^ ; St. Francois, 21. A transverse road crosses the island from St. Laurent to St. 
Pierre. 

The Isle of Orleans is about 3| M. from Quebec, and contains 70 square 
miles (47,923 acres) of land, being 20 M. long and 5^ M. wide. The beau- 
tiful situation of the island, in the broad St. Lawrence, its picturesque 
heights and umbrageous groves, its quaint little hamlets and peaceful and 
primitive people, render Orleans one of the most interesting districts of 
the Lower Province, and justify its title of "the Garden of Canada." 

The island was called Minigo by the Indians, a large tribe of whom lived here 
and carried on the fisheries, providing also a place of retreat for the mainland tribes 
in case of invasion. In 1535 Cartier explored these shores and the hills and forests 
beyond, being warmly welcomed by the resident Indians and feasted with fish, 
honey, and melons. He speaks of the noble forests, and adds : " We found there 
great grape-vines, such as we had not seen before in all the world ; and for that we 
named it the Isle of Bacchus." A year later it received the name of the Isle of 
Orleans, in honor of De Yalois, Duke of Orleans, the son of Francis I. of France. 
The popular name was VIsle des Sorciers (Wizards' Island), either on account of 
the marvellous skill of the natives in foretelling future storms and nautical events, j 
or else because the superstitious colonists on the mainland were alarmed at the] 
nightly movements of lights along the insular shores, and attributed to demons andj 
wizards the dancing fires which were carried by the Indians iu visiting their fish- j 
nets during the night-tides. 



ST. PIERRE D'ORLEANS. Route71. 289 

The island was granted in 1620 to the Sieur de Ciien by the Duke de Montmorenci, 
Viceroy of New France. In 1675 this district was formed into the Earldom of St. 
Laurent, and was conferred on M. Berthelot, who assumed the title of the Count of 
St. Lawrence- In 1651 the N. part was occupied by 600 Christian Hurons, who had 
taken refuge under the walls of Quebec from the exterminating Iroquois. In 1656 
the Iroquois demanded that they should come and dwell in their country, and upon 
their refusal fell upon the Hurons with a force of 300 warriors, devastated the island, 
and killed 72 of the unfortunate Christians. Two tribes were compelled soon after 
to surrender and be led as captives into the Iroquois country, while the Tribe of the 
Cord left the island and settled at Lorette. The Isle was overrun by Iroquois iu 
1661, and in an action with them at Riviere Maheu, De Lauzon, Seneschal of New 
France, and all his guards were killed, preferring to die fighting than to surrender 
and be tortured. The great cross of Argentenay was carried away and raised in tri- 
umph at the Iroquois village on Lake Onondaga (New York). 

For nearly a century the Isle enjoyed peace and prosperity, until it had 2,000 in- 
habitants with 5,000 cattle and rich and productive farms. Then came the advance 
of Wolfe's fleet ; the inhabitants all fled to Charlesbourg ; the unavailing French 
troops and artillery left these shores ; Wolfe's troops landed at St. Laurent, and 
erected camps, forts, and hospitals on the S. E. point ; and soon afterward the Brit- 
ish forces systematically ravaged the deserted country, burning nearly every house 
on the Isle, and destroying the orchards. 

The Isle is now divided into two seigniories, or lordships, whose revenues and 
titles are vested in ancient French families of Quebec. The soil is rich and di- 
versified, and its pretty vistas justify Charlevoix's sketch (of 1720): " We took a 
stroll on the Isle of Orleans, whose cultivated fields extend around like a broad am- 
phitheatre, and gracefully end the view on every side. I have found this country 
beautiful, the soil good, and the inhabitants very much at their ease." The agri- 
cultural interest is now declining, owing to the antique and unprogressive ideas of 
the farmers, who confine themselves to small areas and neglect alternation of crops. 
The farms are celebrated for their excellent potatoes, plums, apples, and for a rare 
and delicious variety of small cheeses. The people are temperate, generous, and 
hospitable, and, by reason of their insular position, still preserve the primitive 
Norman customs of the early settlers under Champlain and Frontenac. The Isle 
and the adjacent shore of Beauprehave been called the nursery of Canada, so many 
have been the emigrants from these swarming hives who have settled in other parts 
of the Provinces. 

St. Pierre is the village nearest to Quebec (9 M.), and is reached by 
ferry-steamers, which also run to BeauUeu. It has about 700 inhabitants, 
and is beautifully situated nearly opposite the Montmorenci Falls and 
Ange Gardien. The first chapel was erected here in 1651 by P6re Lale- 
mant, and was used by the Hurons and French in common. In 1769 the 
present church of St. Pierre was erected. On this shore, in 1825, were 
built the colossal timber-ships, the Columbus, 3,700 tons, and the Baron 
Henfrew, 3,000 tons, the largest vessels that the world had seen up to that 
time. 

The convent of St. Famille was founded in 1685, by the Sisters of the 
Congregation, and since that time the good nuns have educated the girls 
of the village, having generally about 70 in the institution. The nunnery 
is seen near the church, and was built in 1699, having received additions 
from time to time as the village increased. Its cellar is divided into nar- 
row and contracted cells, whose design has been long forgotten. The 
woodwork of the convent was burned by Wolfe's foragers in 1759, but was 
restored in 1761, after the Conquest of Canada. The first church of St. 
Famille was built in 1671, and the present church dates from 1745. The 
13 s 



290 R(mte71. ST. LAUKENT D'ORLEANS. 

village is nearly opposite Chateau Richer, and commands fine views of the 
Laurentian Mts. 

The Parish of St. Frangois includes the domain of the ancient fief of 
Argentenay, and was formed in 1678. In 1683 the first church was built, 
and the present church dates from 1736, and was plundered by Wolfe's 
troops in 1759. The view from the church is very beautiful, and includes 
the St. Lawrence to the horizon, the white villages of the S. coast, and the 
isles of Madame, Grosse, and Keaux. On the N. shore, at the end of the 
island, are the broad meadows of Argentenay, where wild-fowl and other 
game are sought by the sportsmen of Quebec. This district looks across 
the N. Channel upon the dark and imposing ridges of the St. Anne Mts. and 
the peaks of St. Fer^ol; and the view from the church is yet more exten- 
sive and beautiful. 

The church of St. John was built in 1735, near the site of a chapel 
dating from 1675, and contemporary with the hamlet. This parish is 
famous for the number of skilful river-pilots which it has furnished. It 
has about 1,300 inhabitants, and is the most important parish on the island. 
It is nearly opposite the S. shore village of St. Michel (see page 254). 

St. Laurent is 7 M. from St. Jean, upon the well-settled royal road. 
The parish is entered after crossing the Riviere Maheu, where the Seneschal 
of New France fell in battle. The Church of St. Laurent is a stately 
edifice of cut stone with a shining tin roof, and is 113 ft. in length. It re- 
placed churches of 1675 and 1697, and was consecrated in 1861. The 
Eoute des Pretres runs N. from St. Laurent to St. Pierre, and was so named 
50 yeai's ago, when this church had a piece of St. Paul's arm-bone, which 
was taken away to St. Pierre, and thence was stolen at night by the St. 
Laurent people. After long controversy, the Bishop of Quebec ordered 
that each church should restore to the other its own relics, which was 
done along this road by large processions, the relics being exchanged at 
the great black cross midway on the road. 1^ M. W. of St. Laurent is 
the celebrated haven called Trou St. Patrice (since 1689), or Patrick's 
Hole, where vessels seek shelter in a storm, or outward-bound ships await 
orders to sail. The river is 1^ M. wide here, and there are 10 - 12 fathoms 
of water in the cove. 2 M. W. of this point is the Caverne de Bontemps, 
a grotto about 20 ft. deep cut in the solid rock near the level of the river. 



QUEBEC TO THE SAGUENAY. Route 72. 291 



72. Quebec to Cacouna and the Saguenay River.— The 
North Shore of the St. Lawrence. 

_ The St. Lawrence Steam Navigation Company has several first-class steamers ply- 
ing on the lower reaches of the river. The time-table below is that of 1874 ; but if 
any changes have been made, they may be seen in the Quebec newspapers, or at the 
ticket-office, opposite the St. Louis Hotel. 

At 7 A.M., on Tuesday and Friday, the Saguenay leaves Quebec for St. Paul's 
Bay, Les Eboulemeats, Murray Bay, Riviere du Loup (Cacouna), Tadousac, Ha Ha 
Bay, and Chicoutimi ; reaching Quebec again on Thursday and Monday mornings 

On Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday the Union or the St. Lawrence leaves 
Quebec at 7 a.m., for Murray Bay, Riviere du Loup, Tadousac, and Ha Ha Bay; 
reaching Quebec the second morning after. 

On Saturday the St. Laiorence lelves Quebec, at noon, for Murray Bay, Riviere 
du Loup, and Rimouski ; reaching Quebec again on Tuesday morning. 

Distances. — Quebec to St. Laurent, 12 M. ; St. John" (Orleans), 17 ; Isle Ma- 
dame, ^^ ; Cape Tourmente, 28 ; St. Francois Xavier, 45 ; St. Paul's Bay, 55 ; Les 
io. !!i?^^^*^.' ^^^ '^^lurray Bay, 82 ; Riviere Du Loup, 112 (Cacouna, 118) ; Tadousac, 
134 (Chicoutmii,235). x-, \ > /> , 

The S. shore is described in Route 67 (pages 246-255), and the Isle of 
Orleans in Eoute 71. As the steamer moves down across the Basin of 
Quebec, beautiful * views are afforded on all sides, including a fascinating 
retrospect of the lofty fortress. 

" Behind us lay the city, with its tinned roofs glittering in the morning sunshine, 
and its citadel-rock towering over the river ; on the southern shore. Point Levi 
picturesquely climbing the steep bank, embowered in dark trees ; then the wooded 
blufifs with their long levels of farm-land behind them, and the scattered cottao'es of 
the habitants, while northward the shore rose with a gradual, undulatin"- sweep 
glittering, far inland, with houses, and gardens, and crowding villages "until it 

reached the dark stormy line of the Laurentiau Mts. in the N. E The sky the 

air, the colors of the landscape, were from Norway ; Quebec and the surrounding 
villages suggested Normandy, — except the tin roofs and spires, which were Russian", 
rather; while here and there, though rarely, were the marks of English occupancy, 
ihe age, the order, the apparent stability and immobility of society, as illustrated 
by external things, belonged decidedly to Europe. This part of America is but 70 
or 80 years older than New England, yet there seems to be a difiference of 500 years." 
(Bayard Taylor.) 

After running for 17 M. between the populous shores and bright villages 
of Orleans and Bellechasse (see page 254), the steamer turns to the N. E., 
Avlien off St. John, and goes toward Cape Tourmente, passing between Isle 
Madame and the Isle of Orleans. Then St. Francois is passed, on the 1., 
and the meadows of Argentenay are seen, over which is St. Joachim. As 
the N. Channel is opened, a distant view of St. Anne de Beaupr^ may be 
obtained, under the frowning St. Anne Mts. Cape Tourmente (see page 
287) is now passed, beyond which are the great Laurentian peaks of Cape 
Rouge and Cape Grihaune, over 2,000 ft. high, and impinging so closely on 
the river that neither road nor houses can be built. These mountains are 
of granite, and are partially wooded. 3 M. N. E. of Cape Tourmente is a 
lighthouse, 175 ft. above the water, on the rugged slope of Cape Rouge. 
A few miles to the E. is the Sault au Cochon, under the crest of a mountain 
2,370 ft. high. 



292 JRcuk?:. ST. PAUL'S BAY. 

Boucher asscrtoil, in IGPo, that the shore between Cape Tonrmente ami Tadonsac 
was viniuhabitablo, " boinsr too lofty, ami all rvx-ky ami esoar^>ed." But the French 
Cauadiaus, haiily and tiu^loss, and loving the St. Lavvrence moi-e than the Normans 
love the Seine, have toiuuied numerous hamlets on the rocks of this inm shoiv. The 
coast between St. .loaehim and St. Frani;ois Xavier is a.s yet unoccupied. 

" We i-.m aloiiii the bases of headlands, l,OlX> to l.oOO ft. in height, wild and dark 
with lowering clouds, gray with niin, or touched with a golden transparency by the 
sunshine. — alternating belts of atmospheric effect, which greatly inci*eased their 
beauty. IndiHxl, all of us who sjtw the Lower St. Ijawrence for the first time were 
surprised by the imposing ehanicter of its scenery." (B.uakd Tayloe.) 

BoYoncl Abattis and the high clitls of Cape MaiUai'd the steamer passes 
the populous vilhige of i?/. Frant^ois Xavier, extending np the valley of the 
Bouchard River. On the S. a long Hue of picturesque islets is passed 
(see page 254). Beyond Cape Labaie the steamer lies to otf St. Paul's 
Bay, -whose unique and beautiful scenery is seen from the deck. 

St. PauPs Bay (two small inns) is a parish of 4,000 inhabitants, situ- 
ated amid the gmndest scenery of the N. shore. The people are all French, 
and the village is clusteivd about the church and convent near the Gouftre 
River. In the vicinity are found iron, plumbago, limestone, garnet-rock, 
and curious saline and sulphurous springs. It is claimed that "no parish 
otTers so much of interest to the tourist, the poet, or the naturalist." The 
■wild and turbiilent streams that sweep down the valley have carried away 
all the bridges which have been erected by the people. Passengers who 
wish to land at this po'nt are ti-ansferred from the steamer to a large sail- 
boar. 

The vistas up the valleys of the Gouffre and the Mouhn Rivers show distant 
nxnges of pictun^sque blue "mountains, with groups of conical Alpine peaks. In 1791 
it is"^ claimed that the shores of the bay were shaken by earthquakes for many days, 
after which one of the peaks to the X. belched forth great volumes of smoke and 
passed into the volcanic state, emitting eolumus of tlame through serenil days. The 
jvaks :m^ bare and white, v.ith sharp precipices near the summit. The valley of 
the OoulTiv has Iven likened to the Vale of Chvyd, in Wales, and is titwei-seti by a 
fur road alon«: the r. bank of the ripid river. 10 - 12 M. from the bay ai-e tlie ex- 
tensive deposits of magnetic iron-ore which were exploivil by order of Tntendant 
Tiilon, a eenturv and a htilf a-ro. In the upper part of the valley, i* M. fivm St 
Paul's Bay, is «S}. Vrbain, a French Catholic village of about 1,000 inhabitnnts. By 
this n^ute'the tri-weeklv Roval mail-stages cross to Chicoutimi, on the upper Sague- 
nay (see page 300). Sf. Plactde (Clairvaux) is also back of St. Paul's Bay, and has 
400 inhabitants. 

"In all the miles of country I had passed over, I had seen nothing to equal the 
exquisite beauty of the Yale of Bale St. Paul. From the hill on which we stoo^l, 
the whole vallev, of manv miles in extent, was visible. It wsis perfectly level, and 
covered from end to end" with little hamlets, and several chuiThes, with heiv and 

then? a few small patches of forest Like the Happy Valley of Kjisselas, it w;is 

sun-ounded by the most wild and rugged mountains, which rose in endless succes- 
sion one behind the other, stretching away in the distauce, till they resembled a 
faint blue wave in the horizon." (Ballantyxe.' 

" Nothing can be moiv picturesque than the landscape which may be viewed from 
the crest of Cap ati Corboau. Have you courage to clamber up the long slopes of 
Cap an Corboau ; to see the white-si\iled schooners at the entrance of the bay ; to 
comprehend the thousjind divers objects at your feet ; the sinuous course of the 
Maree and of the serjientine Gouthv ; on the S. the old mansions and rich pas- 
tures ; to see the chun^h and convent and the village, the Cap ;\ la Key, the lx)ttcni 
of the bay ; and, farther away, the shores of St. Antoiue Perou, St. Jerome, St. 
John, St. Joseph, and St. Flavien ? " (Tkupelle.) 

The Bay was settled early iu the 17th century, and has always been noted for its 



ISLE AUX COUDRES. Route 72. 293 

earthquakes and volcanic disturbances. In October, 1870, it felt such a severe 
shock that nearly every house in the valley was damaged. In 1759 the village was 
destroyed by Gorham's New-England Rangers, after the inhabitants had defended 
it for two hours. 

" Above the Gulph I have just mentioned is the Bay of St. Paul, where the Hab- 
itations begin on the North Side ; and there are some Woods of Pine-Trees, which 
are much valued ; Here are also some red Pines of great Beauty. Messrs. of the 
Seminary of Quebec are Lords of this Bay. Six Leagues higher, there is a very 
high Promontory, which terminates a Chain of Mountains, which extend above 400 
Leagues to the West ; It is called Cape Tourmente, probably because he that gave it 
this Name, suffered here by a Gust of Wind.'" (Charlevoix.) 

The W, promontory of St. Paul's Bay is Cape Labaie ; that on the E., opposite 
the Isle aux Coudres, is Cape Corbcau. " This cape has something of the majestic 
and of the mournful. At a little distance it might be taken for one of the immense 
tombs erected in the middle of the Egyptian deserts by the vanity of some puny 
mortal. A cloud of birds, children of storm, wheel continually about its fir- 
crowned brow, and seem, by their sinister croaking, to intone the funeral of some 
dying man." 

Between St. Paul's Bay and the Isle aux Coudres is the whirlpool 
called Le Govffre, where the water suddenly attains a depth of 30 fath- 
oms, and at ebb-tide the outer currents are repulsed from Coudres to Cor- 
beau in wide swirling eddies. It is said that before the Gouffre began to 
fill with sand schooners which were caught in these eddies described a 
series of spiral curves, the last of which landed them on the rocks. It 
was the most dreaded point on this shore, and many lives were lost here; 
but its navigation is now safe and easy. 

The Isle aux Coudres is 5i M. long and 2^ M. wide, and is a charm- 
ing remnant of primitive Norman life. It has about 500 inhabitants, en- 
gaged in farming, and more purely mediaeval French than any other 
people in Canada. The houses are mostly along the lines of the N. W. 
and S. E. shores; and the Church of St. Louis is on the S. W. point. 
The island is still owned by the Seminary of Quebec, to which it was 
granted in 1687. Large numbers of porpoises are caught between this 
point and the Riviere Quelle, on the S. shore. Bayard Taylor says: 
" The Isle aux Coudres is a beautiful pastoral mosaic in the pale emerald 
setting of the river." 

OfiF the Isle aux Coudres, and between that point and Riviere Quelle, great num- 
bers of white whales are caught, in fish-pounds made for the purpose. These fish 
(often taken for porpoises) live in the Lower St. Lawrence from April to October, 
when they migrate to the Gulf and the Arctic Ocean. They are from 14 to 22 ft, 
in length, and yield 100-120 gallons of fine oil, which is much used for lighthouse 
purposes, because it does not freeze in winter. A valuable leather is made from 
their skins. 

When Cartier was advancing up the St. Lawrence in 1535, under the direction of 
the Quebec Indians whom he had abducted from Gaspo, he landed on this island, 
and, marvelling at the numerous hazel-trees upon the hills, named it V Isle aux 
Coudres (Hazel-tree Island). This point he made the division between the country 
of Saguenay and that of Canada. " In 1663 an Earthquake rooted up a Mountain, 
and threw it upon the Isle of Coudres^ which was made one half larger than before, 
and in the Place of the Mountain there appeared a Gulf, which it is not safe to 
approach." 

The island was deserted by its inhabitants in the summer of 1759, when great 
British fleets were anchored off the shores, but several boats' crews were driven 
from the strand by rangers. Three British officers landed on the isle, carrying a flag 



294 Route 72. MUEEAY BAY. 

"whicTi they were about to raL«e on the chief eminence before the fleet ; but they 
•were cut off by a small party of Canadians, and were led prisoners to Quebec. Ad- 
miral Durell hrst reached the island, with 10 frigates, and captured 3 French ves- 
sels bearing 1,800 barrels of powder. 

The steamer runs S. E. for several miles in the narrow channel between 
the Isle aus Coudres and the mountains of the N. Shore. At 11 M. from 
St. Paul's Bay it rounds in at the pier (920 ft. long) of the parish of Les 
Eboulements, a farming district of 2,400 inhabitants. "High on the 
crest of the Laurentides, old as the world, the tourist sees on the N., on 
landing at the Eboulements pier, the handsome parish-church." The situa- 
tion of this village is one of the most quaint and charming on the river, 
and overlooks the St. Lawrence for many leagues. The white houses are 
grouped snugly about the tall Xotre Dame Church, above which the dark 
peak of Mt. Eboulements rises to the height of 2,547 ft. 

In the vicinity of Les Eboulements are visible the tracks of the great land-slides 
of 166.3, in that season when so many marvellous phenomena were seen in Canada. 
The St. Lawrence ran "white as milk," as far down ;.s Tadousac ; ranges of hills were 
thrown down into the river, or were swallowed up in the plains ; earthquakes shat- 
tered the houses and shook the trees until the Indians said that the forests were 
drunk ; vast fissures opened in the ground ; and the courses of streams were changed. 
Meteors, fiery-winged serpents, and ghastly spectres were seen in the air: roarings 
and mysterious voices sounded on every side : and the confessionals of all the 
churches were crowded with penitents, awaiting the end of the world. 

The steamer now rounds the huge mass of Mt. Eboulements, passing the 
rugged spurs called Goose Cape and Cape Corneille. On the E. slope is 
seen the large village of St. Irenee^ where 900 French people preserve their 
ancient customs and language. A few miles farther E. the steamer rounds 
in at Murray Bay. 

Murray Bay is the favorite summer resort of the N. Shore, and has 
fine facilities for boating and bathing, with a long firm beach. It is also 
one of the best fishing-centres in the Province, and sportsmen meet with 
success in the waters of the beautiful Murray Eiver, or the Gravel and 
Petit Lakes. The steamer stops at the long wharf at Point a Pique, near 
which are the hotels, — Duberger's, the Lome, and Warren's. A new 
hotel, of 300 ft. front, is being built for the summer of 1875. There are also 
summer cottages about the base of Cajj a VAigU. The tourists occupy 
Point a Pique with their hotels, and make excursions to the lakes and the 
falls. The French town is at the bridge over the jMurray Eiver, and is 
clustered about the gi-eat church and the court-house of Charlevoix County. 
It has 3,000 inhabitants. 

" Of all the picturesque parishes on the shore of our grand river, to which innu- 
merable swarms of tourists go every summer to take the waters, none will interest 
the lover of sublime landscapes more than Malbaie. One must go there to enjoy the 
rugged, the grandeur of nature, the broad horizons. He "will not find here the beau^ 
tifuT wheat-fields of Kamouraska, the pretty and verdurous shores of Cacouna or 
Rimouski, where the languorous citizen goes to strengthen his energies during the 
dog-days; here is savage and unconquered nature, and vievz-points yet more majes- 
tic°than those of the coaJ=ts and walls of Bic. Precipice on precipice ; impenetrable 
gorges in the projections of the rocks ; peaks which lose themselves in the cloud!5, 
and among which the bears wander through July, in search of berries ; where the 



RIVIERE DU LOUP. Route 72. 295 

caribou browses; in September ; where the solitary crow and the royal eagle make 
their nests in 3Iay ; in shorfc, alpine landscapes, the pathless highlands of Scotland, 
a Bvronic nature, tossed about, heaped up in the North, far from the ways of civ- 
ilized men, near a volcano that from time to time awakens and shakes the country iu 
a manner to frighten, but not to endanger, the romantic inhabitants. According to 
some, in order to enjoy all the fulness of these austere beauties, one must be at the 
privileged epoch of life. If then you wish to taste, in their full features, the dreamy 
solitudes of the shores, the grottos, the great forests of Point a Pique or Cap k 
I'Aigle, or to capture by hundreds the Making trout of the remote Gravel Lake, you 
must have a good eye, a well-nerved arm, and a supple leg." (LeMoine.) 

This district was formerly known as the King's Farm, and had 30 houses at the 
conquest of Canada. It was then granted to the Scottish officers. Major Nairn and 
Malcom Fraser, who soon promoted its settlement. It was explored in June, 1608, 
by Champlain, who named it Malle Baie, on account of " the tide which runs there 
marvellously, and, even though the weather is calm, the bay is greatly moved." It 
is stiU generally known as Malbaie, though the English use the name Murray Bay, 
given in honor of the general who granted it to the Scots. The Scotch famihes 
brought out by Fraser and Nairn are now French in language and customs. A 
depot for American prisoners-of-war was established here in 1776, near the Nairn 
manor-house, and the barracks were bmlt by the captives themselves. 

The great French settlement of St. Agnes, with 1,600 inhabitants, is 9 51. W. of 
Murray Bay, up the valley, and on the verge of the wide wilderness of the Crown 
Lands. A rugged road follows the N. shore from Murray Bay to the Saguenay 
River, a distance of about 40 M., passing the romantic St. Fidile (9 M. out ; 1,000 
inhabitants), the lumbering village of Port au Persil, the hamlets of Black River, 
Port aux Quilles, St. Simeon, and Calliere, back of which are mountains where 
many moose and caribou are found. Still farther E. is Baie des Rochers, on an 
island-studded bay. 

The steamer now sti-etches out across the river in a diagonal course of 
30 M., the direction being about N. E. The river is about 20 M. wid*^, 
and the steamer soon comes in sight of the Kamouraska Islands (see pn^'e 
252), on the 1., and then passes between Hare Island (1.) and the Pil- 
grims. The vessel soon reaches the long pier at Poi7it a Beaulicu, 3 ^I. 
from Riviere du Loup. 

Eiviere du Loup {*La Eochelle House; and several large summer 
boarding-houses) is a prosperous village of 1,200 inhabitants, occupying 
a fine position on a hillside near the mouth of the river. There are some 
pretty villas in the vicinity, and the gi-eat church in the centre of the 
town is a prominent landmark for miles. About 3 ]\I. up the river are the 
famous * Eiviere-du-Lovj) Falls, near the new and massive bridge of the 
Intercolonial Railway. The stream here plunges over a cliff about 80 ft. 
high, and then rests quietly in a broad pool below. The views of the 
river and its islands and shipping, from the streets of the village, are 
broad and beautiful; and many summer visitors pass their vacations 
here, finding comfortable accommodations in the boarding-houses. The 
Grand-Portage road runs S. E. from this point into New Brunswick, cross- 
ing numerous trout-streams and leading through a desolate region of 
hills. Its first point of interest is the long Temiscouata Lake (see page 
58). 

Riviere du Loup will soon be one of the chief railway-centres of Canada. It has 
been the E. terminus of the Grand Trunk line for years. The Intercolonial is now 



29G lionfc 7-2. CACOUXA. 

nearly (or quite) completed from this point to St. Joliii anti Halifax, and the New- 
Brunswick liailway is being pushed hitherwai-d up the St. John Valley (see page 
49). 

This domain was granted by the Compaguie des Indes Occidentales to the Sieur 
de la Chesnoye in 1073. It issaid that its name is derive<.i from the fact that in 
former years great droves of seals (/(ij/;\'!-77/nr/;i.«)fi'equeuted the shoals at the mouth 
of the river, making a remarkable uproar at night. 

A persistent attempt has been made to call this town Fraservill'', in honor of the 
Fnisers, who are its seignioi"s. The numerous Frasers of this Province met at 
Quebec in lSGi> to re-form their ancient Scottish clan organization, and to name 
l*roviucial, county, and parish chieftains. The head-chief is entitled The Fraser, 
and is the Hon. John Fraser de Berry, " 6Sth descendant of Jules de Berry, a rich 
and powerful lord, who gave a sumptuous feast to the Emperor Charlemagne and 
his numerous suite, at his castle in Normandy, in the 8th century " The solemn 
Scots maintain that Pe Berry then regaled Charlemagne with strawberries ( traists, 
in the Fi-euch language), and that the Empeivr was so greatly pleased that he 
oniered that he should thenceforth be known as Fraiser de Btrrt/', and from him the 
Clan Fraser traces its name and descent. 

Cacouna is 6 M. from Riviere dn Loup, and is the chief snmmer resort 
of Canada. The * -Sf. Lawreiwe Flail is the most fashionable hotel, and 
accommodates 600 guests, at S 2.50 -3 a day. The Mansion House charges 
S 2 a day. There are several summer boarding-houses whose rates are 
still lower. The traveller who visits Cacouna from Riviere dix Loup must 
be on his guard against the extortions of the carriage-drivers, who fre- 
quently demand exorbitant lares. 

Twenty years ago Cacouna was nothing; it is now filled with great ho- 
tels and boarding-houses, and adorned with many summer cottages. It is 
visited by thousands of Canadians, and also by many Americans "fuyant 
le ciel corrosif de New- York." Here may be seen the Anglo-Canadian 
girls, who are said to combine the physical beauty and strength of the 
English ladies with the vivacity and brilliancy of the Americans. The 
amusements of the village are like those of similar places farther S., — 
sea-bathing and fishing, driving, and balls which extend into the small 
hours. The beach is good, ami the river-views from the heights are of 
tamed beauty. There is a pretty lake back among the hills, where many 
trout are found. 

The great specialties of Cacouna are its pure cool air and brilliant north- 
ern scenery. It is sometimes found too cold, even in August, during 
rainy Aveather, for the American visitors, who then hurry away in crowds. 
The peninsula of Cacouna is a remarkable mass of rock, nearly 400 ft. 
high, which is connected with the mainland by a low isthmus. Its name 
Avas given by the Indians, in allusion to its form, and signifies "the tur- 
tle." The village is French, and has 40Q inhabitants and 3 churches. 
4i M. distant is the populous parish of St. Arscnc, and S M. S. is St. 
Jlodesie. 

From Riviere du Loup the steamer runs across to the Saguenay River, 
passing within 3-4 M. of Cacouna, and running between the Brandy Pots 
(1.) and Red Island (see page 252). 

The Saguenay River, see Route 73. 



THE SAGUENAY EIVER. Route73. 297 



73. The Sagnenay River. 

steamers leave Quebec for Chicoutimi, the farthest port on the Saguenay, on 
Tuesday and Friday, at 7 A. M. (see page 291) ; and for Ha Ha Bay on Wednesday, 
Thursday, and Saturday. They reach Tadousac by nightfall, and start on the re- 
turn from Chicoutimi the next morning. 

Distances. — Quebec to Tadousac, 134 M. ; Tadousac to Riviere St. Marguerite, 
15 ; St. Louis Islets, 19 ; Riviere aux Canards, 23 ; Little Saguenay River, 27 ; St. 
John's Bay, 32 ; Eternity Bay, 41 ; Trinity Bay, 48 ; Cape Rouge, 56 ; Cape East, 
63; Cape West, 65 ; St. Alphonse, 72 ; St. Fulgence, 95; Chicoutimi, 100. This 
itinerary is based on that of the steamship company and is not correct, but will be 
useful in marking approximations to the relative distances between the points on 
the river. There is no other table of distances accessible. Imray-s Sailing Direc- 
tions (precise authority) says that it is 65 M. from the St. Lawrence to Chicoutimi. 

The ** Saguenay River is the chief tributary of the Lower St. Law- 
rence, and is the outlet of the great Lake St. John, into which 11 rivers 
fall. For the last 50 M. of its course the stream is from 1 to 2^ M. wide, 
and is bordered on both sides by lofty precipices of syenite and gneiss, 
which impinge directly on the shores, and are dotted with stunted trees. 
Along their slopes are the deep lines of glacial striations, telling of the 
passage of formidable icebergs down this chasm. The bed of the river is 
100 fathoms lower than that of the St. Lawrence, a difference which is 
sharply marked at the point of confluence. The shores were stripped of 
their forests by a great fire, in 1810, but there are large numbers of hemlock 
and birch trees in the neighboring glens. The river is frozen from the St. 
Louis Isles to Chicoutimi during half the year, and snow remains on the 
hills until June, The awful majesty of its unbroken mountain-shores, the 
profound depth of its waters, the absence of life through many leagues of 
distance, have made the Saguenay unique among rivers, and it is yearly 
visited by thousands of tourists as one of the chief curiosities of the West- 
ern World. 

" The Saguenay is not, properly, a river. It is a tremendous chasm, like that of 
the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea, cleft for 60 M. through the heart of a mountain 

wilderness No magical illusions of atmosphere enwrap the scenery of this 

northern river. Everything is hard, naked, stern, silent. Dark-gray cliffs of granitic 
gneiss rise from the pitch-black water ; firs of gloomy green are rooted in their crev- 
ices and fringe their summits ; loftier ranges of a dull indigo hue show themselves 
in the background, and over all bends a pale, cold, northern sky. The keen air, 
which brings out every object with a crystalUne distinctness, even contracts the di- 
mensions of the scenery, diminishes the height of the cliffs, and apparently belittles 
the majesty of the river, so that the first feeling is one of disappointment. Still, it 
exercises a fascination which you cannot resist. You look, and look, fettered by the 
fresh, novel, savage stamp which nature exhibits, and at last, as in St. Peter's or at 
Niagara, learn from the character of the separate features to appreciate the grandeur 
of the whole Steadily upwards we went, the windings of the river and its vary- 
ing breadth — -from J M. to nearly 2 M. — giving us a shifting succession of the 
grandest pictures. Shores that seemed roughly piled together out of the fragments 
of chaos overhung us, — great masses of rock, gleaming duskily through their scanty 
drapery of evergreens, here lifting long irregular walls against the sky, there split 
into huge, fantastic forms by deep lateral gorges, up which we saw the dark -blue 
crests of loftier mountains in the rear. The water beneath us was black as night, 
with a pitchy glaze on its surface ; and the only life in all the savage solitude was, 

now and then, the back of a white porpoise, in some of the deeper coves The 

river is a reproduction — truly on a contracted scale — of the fiords of the Norwegian 

13* 



298 Route73, THE SAGUEXAY KlYER. 

coast The dark mountains, the tremendous precipices, the fir forests, even the 

settlements at Ha Ha Bay and L'Anse a FEau (except that the houses are -white in- 
stead of red) are as completely Norwegian as they can be. The Scandinavian skip- 
pers who come to Canada all notice this resemblance, and many of them, I learu, 
settle here." (Bayard Tatlor.) 

" From Ha Ha right down to the St. Lawrence, you see nothing but the cold, 
black, gloomy Saguenay, rolling between two straight lines of rocky hills that rise 
steeply from the water's edge. These hills, though steep, are generally roughly 
rounded in shape, and not abrupt or faced with precipices. This makes the scenery 
differ from that with which it has been often compared, the boldest of the fiords of 
Norway. Over the rugged hills of the Saguenay there is generally enough of earth 
here and there lodged to let the gray rock be dotted over with a dark-green sprink- 
ling of pine-trees. Perhaps there is hardly a spot on the Saguenay, which, taken by 
itself would not impress any lover of wild nature by its grandeur, and even sublimity ; 
but after sailing for 70 miles downwards , passing rocky hill after rocky hill, rising one 
beyond the other in monotonously straight lines alongside of you; .... after vainly 
longing for some break in these twin imprisoning walls, which might allow the eye 
the relief of wandering over an expanse of country, — you will begin to compare the 

Saguenay in no kindly spirit to the Rhine It is a cold, savage, inhvunan river, 

fit to take rank with Styx and Acheron ; and, into the bargain, it is dull. For the 
whole 70 miles, you will not be likely to see any living thing on it or near it, outside 
of your own steamer, not a house, nor a field, nor a sign of any sort that living 
things have ever been there."' (White) 

" Sunlight and clear sky are out of place over its black waters. Anything which 
recalls the life and smile of nature is not in unison with the huge naked cliffs, raw, 
cold, and silent as the tombs. An Italian spring could effect no change in the 
deadly, rugged aspect ; nor does winter add one iota to its mournful desolation. ]t 
is with a sense of relief that the tourist emerges from its sullen gloom, and looks 
back upon it as a kind of vault, — Nature's sarcophagus, where life or sound seems 
never to have entered. Compared to it the Dead Sea is blooming, and the wildest 
ravines look cosey and smiling. It is wild without the least variet}% and grand 
apparently in spite of itself ; while so utter is the solitude, so dreary and monoto- 
nous the frown of its great black walls of rock, that the tourist is sure to get impa- 
tient with its sullen dead reverse, till he feels almost an antipathy to its very name. 
The Saguenay seems to want painting, blowing up, or draining, — anything, in 
short, to alter its morose, quiet, eternal awe. Talk of Lethe or the Styx, — they 
must have been purling brooks compared with this savage river ; and a picnic on the 
banks of either would be preferable to one on the banks of the Saguenay." {London 
Tunes.) 

On Sept. 1, 1535, Tadousac was visited by the wonder-loving Cartier, with three 
vessels. He saw the Indians fishing off shore, and reported that, " in ascending the 
Saguenay, you reach a covmtry where there are men dressed like us, who live in 
cities, and have much gold, rubies, and copper." The river was visited by Roberval 
in 1543, and part of the expedition was lost. Thenceforward the country of the 
Saguenay was explored by the fur-traders and the fearless Jesuits. In 1603 Tadou- 
sac was visited by Champlain, around whose vessel the natives crowded in their canoes 
in order to sell or barter away their peltries. Seven years later a solemn and beau- 
tiful scene occurred at Point la Boule (the immense promontory which is seen 5 
M. up-stream), when Champlain and Lescarbot attended the great council of the 
Rlontaignais. They were received with dignified courtesy by the Sagamore Anada- 
bijou, and conducted to the meeting of the warriors, where several grave and 
eloquent speeches were made while the pipe of peace was passed around. The 
Montaignais at that time numbered 9 tribes, '2 of which dwelt along the river, and 
the other 7 occupied the vast area towards Hudson's Bay and the land of the Esqui- 
maux. Their last Sagamore, Simeon, died in 1849, and had no successor, and the 
poor remnant of the nation now obtains a precarious living by beggary, or has with- 
drawn into the fastnesses of the North. The present name of the river is a modifi- 
cation of the original Indian word Saggishsekuss , which means "a river whose 
banks are precipitous." 

In 1671 the heroic and self-abnegating Jesuit, Pere de Crepienl, founded the mis- 
sion at Tadousac, where he remained for 26 years, passing the winters in the 
wretched huts of the savages. Before this time (in. 1661) the Fathers Druillettes and 



TADOUSAC. Rmte 73. 299 

Dablon had ascended the rirer to Lake St. John and there had baptized many In- 
dians, and founded the mission of St. Francois Xavier. The Montaiguais are still 
in the Catholic faith, and each family has its prayer-book and breviary, in -which 
they are able to read. In 1671 Father Albanel ascended the Saguenay from Tadou- 
sac, by order of Intendant Bigot, and passed N. to Hudson's Bay ijy way of the 
great lakes of St. John and Mistassini. The country about the Upper Saguenay wa? 
then well known to the zealous churchmen , but after the decUne of the missions it 
■was forgotten. About 50 years ago the Canadian government had it re-explored by 
efficient officers, and this remote region is now being occupied by French-Canadian 
hamlets. The chief business on the river is the exportation of lumber, which is 
shipped from Chicoutimi in immense quantities. 

Tadousac is a small village, prettily situated on a semicircular terrace 
surrounded with mountains and fronting on a small harbor, deep and 
secure. The St. La-\vrence is here about 24 M. wide, and the mountains 
of the S. shore are visible, while on clear days the view includes the white 
villages of Cacouna and Eiviere du Loup. The * Tadousac Hotel ($ 2,50 a 
day) is a spacious establishment on the bluff over the beach. It was 
founded in 1865 by a joint-stock company, and has been successful. The 
sea-bathing is very good, although the water is cold, and sea-trout are 
caught off the shore. The old buildings of the Hudson's Bay Company 
are near the hotel, and on the lawn before them is a battery of antiquated 
4-pounders. E. of the hotel is the old * chapel of the Jesuit mission, 
which was erected in 1746 on the site of a still more ancient church. The 
summer cottages are near the shore, and are cheerful little buildings. The 
Earl of Dufferin, Governor-General of Canada, has erected a handsome 
house here. The scenery of the landward environs is described in the 
Indian word Tadousac, which means knobs or mamelons. 

" Tadousac is placed, like a nest, in the midst of the granite rocks that surround 
the mouth of the Saguenay. The chapels and the buildings of the post occupy the 
edge of a pretty plateau , on the summit of an escarped height. So perched , these 
edifices dominate the narrow strip of fine sand which sweeps around at their feet. 
On the r. the view plunges into the profound waters of the sombre Saguenay ; in 
ttont, it is lost in the immense St. Lawrence. All around are mountains covered 
with fir-trees and birches. Through the opening which the mighty river has cut 
through the rock, the reefs, the islands, and south shores are seen. It is a delicious 
place " (Tache.) 

4 M. E. of Tadousac is the harbor of Moulin d Baude, where are large beds of 
white marble. Charlevoix anchored here in the Chameau (in 1700), and was so en- 
thusiastic over the discovery that he reported that " all this country is full of mar- 
ble." Pointe Rouge, the S. E. promontory before Tadousac, is composed of an in- 
tensely hard red granite. The shore extends to the N. E. to the famous shooting- 
grounds of Mille YacheSjthe trout-stream of the Laval River, and the Hudson's Bay- 
post of Betsiamitis (see page 233). 

In the year 1599 a trading-post was established at Tadousac by Pontgrav^ and 
Chauvin,to whom this country had been granted. They built storehouses and huts, 
and left 16 men to gather in the furs from the Indians, but several of these died 
and the rest tied into the forest. Two subsequent attempts within a few years ended 
as disastrously. In 1628 the place was captured by Admiral Kirke, and"in 1632 his 
brother died here. In 1658 the lordship of this district, was given to the Sieur De- 
maux, with the dominion over the country between Eboulements and Cape Cor- 
morant. Three years later the place was captured by the Iroquois, and the garrison 
was nia-ssacred. In 1690 three French frigates, bearing the royal treasure to Quebec, 
were chased in here bj- Sir William Phipps's New-England fleet. They formed bat- 
teries on the Tadousac shores, but the Americans were unable to get their vessels 



300 RouteVS. CHICOUTIMI. 

up through the swift currents, and the French fleet was saved. The trading-post 
and mission were kept up with advantage. Charlevoix visited the place in 1720, and 
says : " The greatest Part of our Geographers have here placed a Town, but where 
there never was but one French house, and some huts of Savages who came there in 
the Time of the Trade and who carried away their Huts or Booths, when they went 
away ; and this was the whole matter. It is true that this Port has been a long 
Time the Resort of all the Savage Nations of the North and East, and that the 
French resorted thither as soon as the Navigation was free both from France and 
Canada; the Missionaries also made Use of the Opportunity, and came to trade here 
for Heaven. And when the Trade was over, the Merchants returned to their Homes, 
the Savages took the Way to their Villages or Forests, and the Gospel Labourers fol- 
lowed the last, to compleat their Instructions." 

The steamer leaves Tadousac during the evening, and ascends the river 
by night, vrhen, if the sky is unclouded, there are beautiful effects of star- 
light or moonlight on the frowning shores. The return trip down the river 
is made the next day, and the full power of the scenery is then felt. This 
description of the river begins, therefore, at the head of navigation, and 
follows the river downward, detaching the detour into Ha Ha Bay, for the 
sake of continuity. 

Chicoutimi (good hotel) is the capital of Chicoutimi County, and has 
700 inhabitants. It is situated at the head of navigation on the Saguenay, 
and is the great shipping-point of the lumber districts. Over 40 ships 
load here every year, most of them being squarely built Scandinavian 
vessels. The trade amounts to $500,000 a year, and is under the control 
of Senator Price of Quebec, who has fine villas at Chicoutimi and Tadousac, 
and is known as " The King of the Saguenay." The powerful house of 
Price Brothers & Co. owns most of the Saguenay country, and has estab- 
lishments on the Lower St. Lawrence and in England. Their property in 
mills, buildings, and vessels is of immense value. Over the steamboat- 
pier is the new college, which is being built of stone, about an open quad- 
rangle. Near by are the church and the convent of the Good Shepherd. 
Beyond the village the court-house is seen, on the dark slope of a high 
hill; and the white ribbon of the * Chicoutimi Falls is visible to the 1. 
The Chicoutimi River here falls 40-50 ft., just before entering the Sague- 
nay. This stream affords fine sport for the fisherman, and contains great 
numbers of fish resembling the land-locked salmon, or grilse. 

Chicoutimi signifies " deep water," and was so called by the Northern Indians who 
here first encountered the profound depths of the Saguenay. There is fine fishing about 
the falls and the adjacent rapids (permission must be obtained, and is often granted in 
courtesy to strangers). The ancient Jesuit chapel and the Hudson's Bay Company's 
post were situated near the confluence of the two rivers, and within the chapel 
(which remained until recently) was the tomb of Father Cocquart, the last of the 
Jesuit missionaries. A strong mission was founded here in 1727, by Father Labrosse, 
and many Indians were converted. 

St. Anne du Saguenay is a village of 200 inhabitants, on the high bank 
of the river opposite Chicoutimi. Lake St. John is about 60 M. W. of 
Chicoutimi, and is reached by a good road, which passes through Jon- 
qui6re, Kenogami, and Hebertville (1,200 inhabitants). The Rapids of 
Terres Rompues, on the Saguenay River, are 9 M. above Chicoutimi. 



LAKE ST. JOHN. Route 73. 301 

" These rapids extend 3 M. ; then there are 3 M. of smooth water; then a 
second rapid of terrific strength; then 10 M. of still water; then 2 M. of 
rapids; then | M. of still water. Finally, there succeed the mighty rush 
and uproar of the Grand Decharge, mingling with the foam and tumult 
of the Petit Decharge. These empty the waters of the Grand St. John 
Lake, and sweeping around a rugged island with temfic and unnatural 
force, unite, and rage, contend, and finally melt and settle down into the 
quiet mood of the still water below." Li this part of the river is found 
the winninish, or Northern charr, a game-fish whose pink meat is con- 
sidered a greater delicacy than brook-trout or salmon. 



rake St. John was discovered in 1647 by Father Duquen, the 
at Tadousac, who was the first European to ascend the Saguenay to its source. 
It was then called by the Indians Picouagami, or Flat Lake. Several Jesuit mis- 
sionaries soon passed by this route to the great Nekouba, where all the northern 
tribes were wont to meet in annual fairs ; and in 1672 Father Albanel advanced from 
Tadousac, by Lake St. John and Lake Mistassini, to the Mer du Nord, or Hud- 
son's Bay. A Catholic mission was founded on the lake, at Metabetchuan, and 
posts of the Hudson's Bay Company were also established here. The lake is of 
great area, and receives the waters of 8 large rivers, the chief of which is the Mis- 
tassini, flowing down 250 M. from Lake Mistassini, which is 75 X 30 M. in area. 
The water is shallow, and is agitated into furious white waves by the N. W. winds. 
To the N. and W. is a vast region of low volcanic mountains and dreary lands 
of low spruce forests. The soil along the lake-shores is said to be a fertile allu- 
vium, capable of nourishing a dense population ; but the winters are long and ter- 
rible. 20 years ago there were no settlements here except the Hudson's Bay posts ; 
now there are numerous villages, the chief of which are Roberval, Riviere i I'Ours, 
and St. Jerome. 

Mr. Price, M. P., states that a missionary has recently discovered, high upon the 
Saguenay (or on the Mistassini), an ancient French fort, with intrenchments and 
stockades. On the inside were two cannon, and several broken tombstones dating 
from the early part of the 16th century. It is surmised that these remote memorials 
mark the last resting-place of the Sieur Roberval, Governor-General of Canada, who 
(it is supposed) sailed up the Saguenay in 1548, and was never heard from after- 
wards. The Robervals were favorites of King Francis I., who called one of them 
" the Petty King of Viemen," and the other, " the Gendarme of Hannibal." They 
were both lost on their last expedition to America. 

In descending the Saguenay from Chicoutimi to Ha Ha Bay, the scenery 
is of remarkable boldness, but is less startling than the lower reaches of 
the river. Soon after leaving the village the steamer passes the pretty 
villa and the Anglican church pertaining to Senator Price. Below this 
point is a line of hills of marly clay ; and Cape St. Fran9ois soon rears its 
dark crest on the 1. bank. The river widens rapidly, and the hamlet of 
St. Fulffence is seen on the 1., near Pointe Roches. Beyond the ponderous 
walls of High Point is another broad reach, with small islets under the 1. 
bank. The steamer now runs between the frowning promontories of Cape 
East and Cape West, and passes the entrance to Ha Ha Bay. 

* Ha Ha Bay runs 7 M. S. W. from the Saguenay, and is ascended be- 
tween lofty and serrated ridges, bristling with sturdy and stunted trees. 
So broad and stately is this inlet that it is said that the early French 
explorers ascended it in the belief that it was the main river, and the 
name originated from their exclamations on reach'ng the end, either of 



302 Routers. HA HA BAY. 






amusement at their mistake or of pleasure at the beautiful appearance of 
the meadows. After running for several miles between the terraced cliffs 
of Cape West (on the r.) and the opposite ridges, the steamer enters a 
wide haven whose shores consist of open intervale-land, backed by tall 
blue heights. The entrance is 4 M. long, 1 M. wide, and 100 fathoms 
deep, and the haven can be reached by ships of the line without difficulty. 
It is expected that this bay will be the great port of "the hyperborean 
Latin nation" which is fast settling the Upper Saguenay and Lake St. 
John country. Large quantities of lumber are loaded here upon British 
and Scandinavian ships, and a- floui'ishing trade is carried on in the 
autumn by sending farm-produce and blueberries to Quebec, — the latter 
being packed in coffin-shaped boxes and sold for 10 - 20 cents a bushel. 

The steamer is moored to the' wharf at St. Alphonse (Bagotville), near 
which is the church and a village of 250 inhabitants. Calashes are found 
at the pier, on which the passengers can ride up over the hills or to St. 
Alexis (Grande Bale), a village of 300 inhabitants, 3 M. distant on the S. 
shore of the bay. The mail-road is prolonged from this point, through the 
uninhabited wilderness of the Crown Lands, to St. Urbain and St. Paul's 
Bay (see page 292). The Riviere a Mars, emptying into the bay between 
St. Alphonse and St. Alexis, is famous for its salmon-fisheries. 

" The long line of sullen hills had fallen away, and the morning sun shone -warm 
on what in a friendlier climate would haTe been a Tery lovely landscape. The bay 
was an irregular oval, with shores that rose in bold but not lofty heights on one 
side, while on the other lay a narrow plain with two villages clinging about the road 
that followed the crescent beach, and lifting each the slender tin-clad spire of its 
church to sparkle in the sun. At the head of the bay was a mountainous top, and 
along its waters were masses of rocks , gayly painted with lichens and stained with 
metallic tints of orange and scarlet." iHowells.) 

21 M. from Ha Ha Bay is Lac d la Belle Truite, famous for its immense red trout, 
and beyond is the Great Ha Ha Lake, among the mountains, with bold capes en- 
circling forests, and a pretty island. 6 M. from Belle Truite is the Little Ha Ha 
Lake, on whose shore is a stupendous cliff nearly 2,000 ft. high. The blue peaks of 
the St. Margaret 3Iis. are about 30 M. from Ha Ha Bay, and sweep from Lake St. 
John to Hudson's Bay. Carriages may be taken from St. Alphonse to Chicoutimi 
(12 M.), and for longer excursions toward Lake St. John. 

After passing the dark chasm of Ha Ha Bay, Cape East is seen on the 1., 
throwing its serrated ledges far out into the stream, and cutting off the 
retrospective view. Eugged palisades of syenite line the shores on both 
sides. " The procession of the pine-clad, rounded heights on either shore 
began shortly after Ha Ha Bay had disappeared behind a curve, and it 
hardly ceased, save at one point, before the boat re-entered the St. Law- 
rence. The shores of the river are almost uninhabited. The hills rise 
from the water's edge; and if ever a narrow vale divides them, it is but 
to open drearier solitudes to the eye." Just before reaching Cape Kouge 
(1. bank) the ravine of JDescente des Femmes opens to the N., deriving its 
singular name from a tradition that a party of Indians were starving, in 
the back-country, and sent their squaws for help, who descended to the 
river through this wild gorge and secured assistance. 



ETEENITY BAY. R(mte73. 303 

On the r. bank is * Le Tableau^ a cliff 900 ft. high, whose riverward 
face contains a broad sheet of dark limestone, 600 X 300 ft. in area, so 
smooth and straight as to suggest a vast canvas prepared for a picture. 
Still farther down (r. bank) is 

" * Statue Point, where, at about 1,000 feet above the water, a huge, 
rough Gothic arch gives entrance to a cave, in which, as yet, the foot of 
man has never trodden. Before the entrance to this black aperture, a 
gigantic rock, like the statue of some dead Titan, once stood. A few 
years ago, during the winter, it gave way, and the monstrous statue came 
crashing down through the ice of the Saguenay, and left bare to view the 
entrance to the cavern it had guarded perhaps for ages." 

The steamer soon passes Cape Trinity on the r. bank, and runs in 
close to ** Eternity Bay, which is a narrow cove between the majestic 
cliffs of Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity. The water is 150 fathoms deep, 
and the cliffs descend abruptly into its profoundest parts. * Cape Trinity 
consists of three vast superimposed precipices, each of which is 5-600 
ft. high, on whose faces are seen two remarkable profiles. The echo in 
the bay is wonderful, and is usually tested by discharging a gun or blow- 
ing a whistle. (In recent maps and descriptions the name of Eternity has 
been given to the N. cape, and Trinity to the other. This is not correct, 
for the N. cape was named La Trinite by the Jesuits on account of its 
union of three vast sections into one mountain. It is known by that name 
among the old pilots and river-people. The Editor has substituted the 
correct names in the ensuing quotations.) 

" The masterpiece of the Saguenay is the majesty of its two grandest bulwarks, 
— Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity, — enormous masses of rock, 1,500 feet high, 
rising sheer out of the black water, and jutting forward into it so as to shelter a lit- 
tle bay of the river between their gloomy portals. In the sublimity of their height 
and steepness, and in the beautiful effect against the rock of the pine-trees which 
here and there gain a dizzy foothold, nestling trustfully into every hollow on the 
face of the tremendous precipice, these capes can hardly be surpassed by any river- 
scene in the world." (White.) 

" Suddenly the boat rounded the comer of the three steps, each 500 ft. high, in 
which Cape Trinity climbs from the river, and crept in under the naked side of the 
awful cliff. It is sheer rock, springing from the black water, and stretching upward 
with a weary, effort-like aspect, in long impulses of stone marked by deep seams 
from space to space, till, 1,-500 ft. in air, its vast brow beetles forward, and frowns 

with a scattering fringe of pines The rock fully justifies its attributive height 

to the eye, which follows the upward rush of the mighty acclivity, steep after steep, 
till it wins the cloud-capt summit, when the measureless mass seems to swing and 
sway overhead, and the nerves tremble with the same terror that besets him who 
looks downward from the verge of a lofty precipice. It is wholly grim and stern ; 
no touch of beauty relieves the austere majesty of that presence. At the foot of 
Cape Trinity the water is of unknown depth, and it spreads, a black expanse, in the 
rounding hollow of shores of unimaginable wildness and desolation, and issues 
again in its river's course around the base of Cape Eternity. This is yet loftier 
than the sister cliff, but it slopes gently backward from the stream, and from foot to 
crest it is heavily clothed with a forest of pines. The woods that hitherto have 
shagged the hills with a stunted and meagre growth, showing long stretches scarred 
by fire, now assume a stately size, and assemble themselves compactly upon the side 
of the mountain, setting their serried stems one rank above another, till the summit 
is crowned with the mass of their dark green plumes, dense and soft and beautiful ; 



304 Route 73. ETEENITY BAY. 

so that the spirit, perturbed by the spectacle of the other cliff, is calmed and as- 
suaged by the serene grandeur of this." (HowellS'S A Chance Acquaintance.) 

" These awful cliffs, planted in water nearly a thousand feet deep, and soaring into 
the verj' sky, form the gateway to a rugged valle\% stretching inland, and covered 
•with the dark primeval forest of the North. I doubt whether a sublimer picture 

of the wilderness is to be found on this continent The wall of dun-colored 

syenitic granite, ribbed with vertical streaks of black, hung for a moment directly 
over our heads, as high as three Trinity spires atop of one another. Westward, the 
■wall ran inland, projecting bastion after bastion of inaccessible rock, over the dark 
forests in the bed of the valley." (Batard Taylor.) 

" The wild scenery of the river culminates at a little inlet on the right bank be- 
tween Capes Trinity and Eternity. Than these two dreadful headlands nothing can 
be imagined more grand and impressive. For one brief moment the rugged charac- 
ter of the river is partly softened, and, looking back into the deep valley between the 
capes, the land has an aspect of life and mild luxuriance which, though not rich, 
at least seems so in comparison with the grievous awful barrenness. Cape Eternity 
on this side towards the landward opening is pretty thickly clothed with fir and birch 
mingled together in a color contrast which is beautiful enough, especially where the 
rocks show out among them, with their httle cascades and waterfalls like strips of 
silver shining in the sun. But Cape Trinity well becomes its name, and is the reverse 
of all this. It seems to frown in gloomy indignation on its brother for the weakness it 
betrays in allowing anything like life or verdure to shield its wild, uncouth deformity 
of strength. Cape Trinity certainly shows no sign of relaxing in this respect from 
its deep savage grandeur. It is one tremendous cliff of limestone, more than 1,500 
feet high, and inclining forward more than 200 feet, brow-beating all beneath it, and 
seeming as if at any moment it would fall and overwhelm the deep black stream 
"Which flows so cold and motionless down below. High up, on its rough gray brows, 
a few stunted pines show like bristles their scathed white arms, giving an awful 
weird aspect to the mass, blanched here and there by the tempests of ages, stained 
and discolored by little waterfalls in blotchy and decaying spots. Unlike Niagara, 
and all other of God's great works in nature, one does not wish for silence or soli- 
tude here. Companionship becomes doubly necessary in an awful solitude like this." 
{^London Times.) 

When the Flying Fish ascended the river with the Prince of Wales and his suite, 
one of her heavy 68-pounders was fired off near Cape Trinity. " For the space of half 
a minute or so after the discharge there was a dead silence, and then, as if the report 
and concussion were hurled back upon the decks, the echoes came down crash upon 
crash. It seemed as if the rocks and crags had all sprung into life under the tre- 
mendous din, and as if each was firing 68-pounders full upon us, in sharp, crushing 
volleys, till at last they grew hoarser and hoarser in their anger, and retreated, bellow- 
ing slowly, carrying the tale of invaded solitude from hill to hiU, till all the distant 
mountains seemed to roar and groan at the intrusion." 

St. John's Bay (r. bank) is 6 M. below Eternity Bay, and is shallow 
enough to afford an anchorage for shipping. It is 2 M wide and 3 ]\I. long, 
and receives the St. John Elver. At its end is a small hamlet, situated in 
a narrow valley which appears beautiful in contrast with the surrounding 
cliffs. Far inland are seen the blue peaks of distant mountains. In the 
little cove opposite is the white thread of a lofty cascade. 

The Little Saguenay River (r. bank) is 4 M. below, and flows down out 
of a bristling wilderness where are famous Indian hunting-grounds and 
pools filled with trout. A short distance below are the islets at the mouth 
of the Eivi^re aux Canards. The steamer then sweeps by the St. Louis 
Isle, a granite rock, ^ M. long, covered with firs, spruces, and birch-trees. 
There is 1,200 ft. depth of water around this islet, in which are multitudes 
of salmon-trout. On the r, bank are the massive promontories of Cape 
Victoria and Cape George. The * retrospect from this point affords one 
of the grandest views on the river. 2 M. below (1. bank) is seen the inter- 



QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. Route 74. 305 

vales of the St. Marguerite River, the chief tributary of the Saguenay, de- 
scending from a lake far N. of Chicoutimi, and famous for its salmon-fisher- 
ies (leased). It is a swift stream, flecked with rapids, but is navigable for 20 
M. by canoes ; and flows from a valuable region of hard- wood trees. There 
are huts along the strand at its mouth, and vessels are usually seen at an- 
chor here ; while far inland are bare and rugged ridges. The tall promon- 
tory beyond this river is seamed with remarkable trap-dikes, of a color 
approaching black ; opposite which is the mouth of the St. Athanase. 

Beyond Point Crepe (r. bank) is the deep cove of St. Etienne Bay, aflford- 
ing an anchorage, and bordered with narrow strips of alluvial land. The 
steamer now sweeps rapidly down, between immense cliffs, and with but 
narrow reaches of the river visible ahead and astern. Beyond the Passe 
Pierre Isles (r. bank) it approaches a castellated crag on the r., opposite 
which is the frowning promontory called * Pointe la Boule, a vast granite 
mountain which narrows the channel to very close confines. From Pointe 
la Boule to Tadousac, the river flows between escarped cliffs of feldspathic 
gi-anite, with an appearance resembling stratification dipping to the S. E. 
Their lofty rounded summits are nearly barren, or at most support a thin 
fringe of low trees ; and the sheer descent of the sides is prolonged to a 
great depth beneath the water. 

The vessel calls at VAiise a DEau, the little cove near Tadousac (see 
page 299); and soon afterwards steams out into the broad St. Lawrence, 
in the darkness of evening. The next morning, the traveller awakes at or 
near Quebec. 

74, Quebec to Montreal — The St. Lawrence River. 

The steamboats of the Richelieu Company, the Quebec and the Montreal, are 
among the largest and most elegant river-boats in America. Thej^ leave Quebec 
every evening, arriving at Montreal early the next morning. Day -boats are some- 
times put on during the summer season, and should be preferred by the tourist, as 
enabling him to see the river and its villages. The Union Line entered into compe- 
tition with the Richelieu boats, in 1874, with the fine steamers Athenian and Cor- 
inthian The prices on both lines were reduced to the following figures, but will 
probably be raised again in 1875 : — 

Fares. — Quebec to Batiscan, 75c.; to Three Rivers, $1; to Sorel, $1.25; to 
Montreal, $2 (supper and berth included). 

Distances. — Quebec to Batiscan, 69 M. ; Three Rivers, 90 ; Sorel, 135 ; Mon- 
treal, 180. 

The Grand Trunk Raihcay runs two trains daily between Quebec and Montreal. 
Stations. — Quebec (Point Levi) ; Hadlow, 2 M. ; Chaudiere Curve, 8 ; Craig's Road, 
15 ; Black River, 20 ; Methofs Mills, 28 ; Lyster, 37 ; Becancour, 41 ; Somerset, 49 ; 
Stanfold, 55 ; Arthabaska, 64 ; Warwick, 71 ; Danville, 84 ; Richmond, 96 ; New 
Durham, 108 ; Acton, 118 ; Upton, 124 ; Britannia Mills, 130 ; St. Hyacinthe, 137 ; 
Soijtante, 144 ; St. Hilaire, 160 ; St. Brvmo, 157 ; St. Hubert, 162 ; St. Lambert, 
167 ; Montreal, 172. 

" It could really be called a Tillage, beginning at Montreal and ending at Quebec, 
which is a distance of more than 180 M. ; for the farm-houses are never more than five 
arpents apart, and sometimes but three asunder, a few places excepted." (Kalm, the 
Swedish traveller, in 1749.) In 1684 La Houtan said that the houses along these shores 
vrere never more than a gunshot apart. The inhabitants are simple-minded and 

T 



306 Route 74. ST. AUGUSTIN. 

primitive in their ways, tenaciously retaining the Catholic faith and the Trench 
language and customs. Emery de Caen, Champlain's contemporary, told the Hugue- 
not sailors that " Monseigneur, the Duke de Yentadour (Viceroy), did not ■wish that 
they should sing psalms in the Great River.'" When the first steamhoat ascended 
this river, an old Canadian voyageur exclaimed, in astonishment and doubt, " Mais 
croyez-vous que le bon Dieu permettra tout cela ! " 

As the steamboat swings out into the stream a fine series of views are 
afiforded, including Quebec and the Basin, the bold bluffs of Point Levi, 
and the dark walls of the Citadel, almost overhead. As the river is as- 
cended, the villas of Sillerj' and Cap Rouge are seen on the r., and on the 
1. are the wharves and villages of South Quebec and New Liverpool, be- 
yond which are the mouths of the Etchemin and Chaudiere Rivers. St. 
Augustin is on the N. shore, 15 M. above Quebec, and has a Calvaire, to 
which many pilgrimages are made, and a statue of the Guardian Angel, 
erected on a base of cut stone in front of the church, and commemorating 
the Vatican Council of 1870. 

Near the village is a ruined church dating from 1720, at whose construction the 
Devil is said to have assisted, in the form of a powerful black stallion who hauled in 
the blocks of stone, until his driver unbridled him at a watering-place, when he 
vanished in a cloud of sulphur-smoke. In front of St. Augustine the French frigate 
Atalante surrendered to the British fleet in 1760, after a heroic but hopeless battle ; 
and in the same waters the steamer Montreal was burned in 1857, and 200 passen- 
gers lost their lives. 

Pointe aux Trembles is 3 M. above St. Augustin (N. shore, and is a ship- 
building village of 700 inhabitants. Here many of the ladies of Quebec 
took refuge during Wolfe's siege (1759), and were captured by his Gren- 
adiers. Here also the American armies of Arnold and Montgomery united 
their forces (Dec. 1, 1775) before the disastrous assault on Quebec. Pass- 
ing the hamlet of St. Antoine de Tilly, on tbe S. shore, the village of Les 
Ecureuils is seen on the N., 7 M. above Pointe aux Trembles. This is 
near the mouth of the Jacques Cartier River, famous for its remarkable 
scenery and for its fine trout-fishing (on the upper waters). On the heights 
near the mouth of the river was Fort Jacques Cartier, to which 10,000 
French troops retreated after the defeat of Montcalm. Nearly a year later 
(June, 1760) the fort was held by the Marquis d'Albergotti, and was bom- 
barded and taken by Fraser's Highlanders. 

6 M. above Les Ecureuils is Bt. Croix (S. shore), a village of 750 in- 
habitants, with a ^black nunnery and the public buildings of Lotbiniere 
County. 3 M. beyond (N. shore) is Portneuf^ a prosperous little town 
with paper-mills and a large country trade. This seigniory was granted 
to M. Le Neuf by the Cent Associ^s in 1647, and was completely deso- 
lated by the famishing French cavalry in 1759. Beyond this point the 
scenery becomes less picturesque, and the bold ridges of the Laurentian 
Mts. sink down into level lowlands. Deschambault (N. shore) has 500 in- 
habitants, with a trade in lumber and flour. Lotbiniere (S. shore) is a 
town of 2,500 inhabitants, with a Convent of the Bon Pasteur and two 
stove-foundries. Grondines (N. shore) is 3 M. beyond Deschambault, and 



THEEE EIVERS. Route 7 4. 307 

has 400 inhabitants; and St. Jean Deschaillons (S. shore) is noted for its 
brickyards. St. Anne de la Perade (N. shore) has a great church, and is 
situated at the mouth of the St. Anne River, which is here crossed by a 
bridge 1,500 ft. long. Beyond St. Pierre les Becquets (S. shore) is the 
busy little port of Batiscan (N. shore), with its two lighthouses; Gentilly 
(S. shore) has 600 inhabitants and the Convent of the Assumption; and 
Champlain (N. shore) has 400 inhabitants. 

Three Kivers {British American Hotel) is a city of 9,000 inhabitants, 
midway between Quebec and Montreal, and at the head of tide-water on 
the St. Lawrence River. It was founded in 1618, under the name of Trois 
Rivieres, and played an important part in the early history of Canada. 
The chief buildings are the stately Catholic Cathedral, the Court-House, 
the Ursuline Convent, St. Joseph's College, and the Episcopal and Wes- 
leyan churches. The city has a bank, 2 Masonic lodges, and 4 semi- 
weekly and weekly newspapers (2 of which are French). Besides the 
daily boats of the Richelieu Line, there are 5 steamboats plying from this 
port to the adjacent river-villages. It is connected with Quebec and 
Montreal by the Three-Rivers Branch of the Grand Trunk Railway and 
by the North-Shore Railway, and is building a new line up the St. Mau- 
rice Valley to Grand Piles. There are large iron-works and machine- 
shops here, and stoves and car-wheels are made in great numbers from 
bog-iron ore. The chief industry is the shipment of lumber, which comes 
down the St. Maurice River. The Canadian government has expended 
$200,000 in improving the navigation on the St. Maurice, and over 
$1,000,000 has been invested in mills and booms above. 

The St. Maurice River waters a district of immense (and unknown) extent, 
abounding in lakes and forests. Portions of this great northern wilderness have 
been visited by the lumbermen, who conduct rafts to Three Rivers, where the lumber 
is sawed. About 22 M. above the city are the noble Falls of the Sliawanegan. 
where the great river plunges over a perpendicular descent of 150 ft. between the 
lofty rocks called La Grand'' Mere and Le Bonhom7ne. A few miles above are the 
Falls of the Grand' Mere. These falls are visited by engaging canoes and guides at 
Three Rivers, while hunting-parties conducted by Canadian tjo^/ag-ewrs or Algonquin 
Indians sometimes pass thence into the remote northern forests in pursuit of the 
larger varieties of game. The head-waters of the St. Maurice are interlocked with 
those of the Saguenay. 

Across the St. Maurice is the thriving village of Cap de la Magdelaine ; and on 
the S. shore are Becancour, the capital of Nicolet County, and St. Angel de Laval 
(Doucett's Landing), the terminus of a branch of the Grand Trunk Railway. 

The steamer soon enters Lake St. Peter, a shallow widening of the river 
22 M. long and 8 M. broad. It has a deep and narrow channel (partly ar- 
tificial), which is marked out by buoys and poles, and is used by large 
vessels. Immense lumber-rafts are often seen here, drifting downward 
like floating islands, and bearing streamers, sails, and the rude huts of the 
lumbermen. In stormy weather on the lake these rafts sometimes come 
to pieces. The inlets along the low shores afford good duck-shooting; and 
enormous quantities of eels and pike are taken from the waters. Near the 



308 Route 74. SOREL. 

E. end of the lake, at the mouth of the Nieolet River, is the populous 
town of Nieolet, famous for its flour and lumber trade and for its noble 
college, with its 250 students and a library of 10,000 volumes. The build- 
ings are surrounded by attractive parks and gardens. On the N. shore is 
Riviere du Loup en haut, near which are the celebrated St. Leon Springs 
(reached by daily stage from Three Rivers, in 24 M. ; fare, $1.50; Gil- 
man's Hotel, and others). St. Frangoisdu Lac is a pretty village on the 
S. W. shore, at the mouth of the great St. Francis River. 

On leaving Lake St. Peter, the steamer threads her way through an 
archipelago of low islands, and soon reaches Sorel (four hotels), a city of 
7,500 inhabitants, with 3 weekly papers (2 French), a Catholic college, 
several shipyards and foundries, and a large country trade. It is at the 
mouth of the great River Richelieu, the outlet of Lake George and Lake 
Champlain, whose head-waters are intex'locked with those of the Hudson. 
Navigation is kept up between this point and the Lake-Champlain ports by 
the Chambly Canal, and a railway is being built to meet the Grand Trunk 
line at Upton. The town is regularly laid out, and its broad streets are 
adorned with trees. In the centre is the Royal Square, whose fine old 
elms are much admired. 

Fort Richelieu was built on this site in 1641, and was re-constructed and enlarged 
by Capt. Sorel, of the Carignan Regiment, under orders from Gov. de Tracy (1665). 
In November, 1775, it was occupied by Col. Easton, with a strong force of Continen- 
tal troops and a flotilla, and this detachment captured 11 sail of vessels, containing 
Gen. Prescott and the British garrison of Montreal. Sorel was for many years the 
summer residence of the Canadian governors, and on being visited by Prince Wil- 
liam Henry of England (afterward King William IV.) an abortive attempt was made 
to change its name to William Henry. 

Berihier en Jiaut is 6 M. above Sorel, on the N. shore (semi-daily steam- 
ers), and is an important manufacturing town of 1,700 inhabitants, situated 
amid rich farming lands. It was the birthplace of M. Faribault, long time 
a N. W. Commissioner, and founder of Faribault, Minnesota. Back of 
Berthier are the populous towns of St. Cuthbert, St. Norbet, St. Felix de 
Valois, and St. Elizabeth. Lanoraie is 9 M. above Berthier (N. Shore), 
and is the terminus of the St. Lawrence & Industry Railway, which 
runs N. W. 12 M. to St. Thomas and Joliette, and thence into Montcalm 
County. 15 M. above Sorel (S. shore) is Contrecoeur, noted for its maple- 
sugar; and Lavaltrie is 15 M. above Berthier (N. shore), and has 2 
lighthouses. 6 M, above is St. Sulpice (N. shore), beyond which is L'As- 
somption (Hotel Richard), a prosperous village of 2,600 inhabitants. 
Above the N. shore village of Repentigny the N. branch of the Ottawa 
River (Riviere des Prairies) flows into the St. Lawrence, having diverged 
from the Ottawa at the Lake of the Two Mountains. 

Varennes is a pretty village on the S. shore, opposite Isle St. Therese, 
and connected by a ferry with Bout de I'Isle, and with Montreal (15 M. dis- 
tant) by a daily steamer. It has 825 inhabitants, and manufactures many 



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MONTKEAL. Route 75. 309 

carriages. The church is a large and statelj' building, with two conspicu- 
ous towers. 1 M. from the village are the celebrated Varennes Springs^ 
which are saline in character and possessed of valuable medicinal proper- 
ties. One of them emits great quantities of carbonated hydrogen gas, and 
the other yields 2 - 3 gallons a minute, and is much visited by invalids. 
Arrangements are being made to establish a first-class summer resort at 
this point. Above Varennes is Boucha'ville, the birthplace of Chief Justice 
Sir Louis Hippolyte Lafontaine. The low and marshy islands off this shore 
are famous for duck-shooting, and for the ice-dams which form here at 
the close of the winter. Pointe aux Trembles is to the N., on the Island of 
Montreal, and is an ancient village dating from 1674. 

" We were gliding past Longueuil and Boucherville on the (left), and Pointe aux 
Trembles, ' so called from having been originally covered with aspens,' on the (right). 
I repeat these names not merely for want of more substantial facts to record, but 
because they sounded singularly poetic in my ears. There certainly was no lie in 
them. They suggested that some simple and perchance heroic human life might 
have transpired there. ' ' (Thoreau. ) 

Clustering villages are now seen on either shore, and the river is strewn 
with low islands. At 9 M. above Pointe aux Trembles the steamer reaches 
her pier at Montreal, with the magnificent Victoria Bridge spanning the 
river in front. 

75. Montreal. 

Hotels. — * St. Lawrence Hall, 139 Great St. James St. , accommodating 500 guests, 
$ 3.50 a day ; * Ottawa Hotel, 246 Great St. James St. , $ 3.50 a day ; Montreal Hou e, 
Custom-House Square, $2.50 a day ; Donnegana Hotel, Notre Dame St., $2.60 a 
day ; Albion Hotel, 141 McGill St., $ 2 a day ; Canada Hotel, St. Gabriel St., $ 2 a 
day (frequented by French Canadians) ; the American, 22 and 26 St. Joseph St., ^ 2 
a day. There are also numerous French hotels of the second class, among which 
are the Hotel Richelieu, 45 St. Vincent St. ; theMorrisseau, St. Paul St ; Hotel du 
Nord, 131 St. Paul St. ; and the Hotel Lepine, 151 St. Paul St. Montreal needs a 
modern first-class hotel. 

Shops. — The most attractive are on Great St. James and Notre Dame Sts. 
Among the chief houses for clothing are Henry & Wilson, 236 St. James St. ; W. 
Walsh & Co., 463 Notre Dame St. Dry goods and gloves, Brown & Clagget, corner 
Notre Dame and St. Helen Sts. ; Wm. McDunnough, 280 Notre Dame St {laces a 
specialty) ; Thomas Mussen, 257 and 259 Notre Dame St. ; Ste. Marie Brothers, 454 
Notre Dame St. Furs and hats, A. Brahadi, corner St. Lambert and Notre Dame Sts. 
Jewelry, Savage, Lyman, & Co., 228 St. James St. ; E. G. Mellor, 285 Notre Dame St.; 
Alex. D. Daly, 426 and 428 Notre Dame St. The parlors of W. Notman, the cele- 
brated photographer (very high prices), are at 17 Bleury St. Turkish baths, Swedish 
movement and health-lift, at 140 St. Monique St., near the Crystal Palace. 

Amusements. — Theatre Ptoyal, 19 Cott6 St., open usually during the sum- 
mer. Lectures are given at the Association Hall, comer of Craig St. and Victoria 
Square. Lectures and other entertainments are also given at the hall of the Me- 
chanics' Institute, 204 Great St. James St. Billiards, at Nordheimer's Hall, Great 
St. James St. The Victoria Skating Rink, Drummond and Dorchester Sts., is 
famous for its winter carnivals. The Thistle Rink is near the Crystal Palace. 

Reading-Ilooms. — Young Men's Christian Association, Victoria Square; 
Merchants' Exchange, 11 St. Sacrament St. ; Mechanics' Institute, 204 Great St. 
James St.; Institut Canadien, 111 Notre Dame St. ; CEuvre des Bons Livres, 327 
Notre Dame St. There is a circulating library at 666 Dorchester St. (Mrs. Hill's). 

Consuls. — United States, 145 Great St. James St. ; Germany, 61 St. Sulpire 
St. ; France, 75 Notre Dame St. ; Austro-Hungary, 61 St. Sulpice St. ; Italy, 158 
Fortification Lane ; Belgium, 873 Sherbrooke St. 



310 Route 75. MONTREAL. 

Post-Office, on Great St. James St., near St. Francjois Xavier St. Telegraph, 
central office of the Montreal Telegraph Company, corner of St. Sacrament and St. 
Fran^iois Xavier Sts. 

Carriages. — (One-horse ) For 1-2 persons, -within a city division, 15 cents ; 
between two points in the city, 25 c. ; by the hour, 50 c., and 20 c. for each addi- 
tional \ hour. For 3-4 persons , within a city diyision , 25 c. ; between two points in 
the city, 40c. ; by the hour, 70 c. , and 30 c. for each additional ^ hour. (Two-horse 
carriages.) For 1-2 persons, within a city division, 30c. ; between two points in the 
city, 40 c. ; by the hour, 75 c., and 30c. for each additional h hour. For 3-4 per- 
sons, within a city division, 40 c. ; between two points in different divisions, 50 c. ; by 
the hour, $ 1 ; and 40 c for every additional ^ hour. The first division includes the 
district between McGiU St., Craig St., the Quebec-Gate Barracks, and the river ; the 
second, the wards S. and W". of the first and of St. Lawrence Main St. ; the third the 
■wards N. and E. of the first and of St. Lawrence Main St. (approximately). 

Horse-cars run across the city on Craig, Bleury, and St. Catherine Sts. ; also 
on St. Mary, Notre Dame, and St. Joseph Sts. ; and out St. Lawrence Main St. to St. 
Jean Baptiste. 

Railways. — To Boston by way of St. Albans, Concord, and Lowell, in 334 M. ; 
or by way of Fitchburg, in 344 M. ; or by the new route, the Southeastern Railway. 
To New York, by Rutland and Albany, 365 M. (by Lake Champlain, 405 M.) ; toQue- 
bec, 172 M. (in 7 hrs.) ; to Plattsburg, 63 M. ; to Rouse's Point, 50 M. ; to Toronto, 
333 M. (14 - 15 hrs.) ; to Detroit (861 M.) and Chicago (1,145 M.) ; to Ottawa, 164 M. 

Stages run out from Montreal in all directions, daily. To St. Cesaire, Marieville, 
and Chambly ; St. Eustache, St. Augustin, St. Scholastique, St. Columban, and St. 
Canut ; New Glasgow, Kilkenny, St. Jerome. Stanbridge, St. Lin, St. Hippolyte, St. 
Agathe des Monts, St. Adele, St. Janvier, St. Th(5rese de Blainville, St. Sophie; 
St. Vincent de Paul, Mascouche, Terrebonne, and St. Sauveur ; Pointeaux Trembles, 
Sault au Recollet, and St. Martin. 

Steamships. — The first-class ocean steamships of the Allan Line and the Do- 
minion Line leave Montreal 2-3 tim.es weekly during the season of navigation, for 
Liverpool and Glasgow. The Richelieu Line and the Union Line each run daily 
steamers to the lower river-ports and Quebec . The morning and evening trains to La- 
chine connect with the steamboats for Ottawa, by way of the Ottawa River. The 
vessels of the Canadian Navigation Company ascend the St. Lawrence and Lake On- 
tario, from Montreal to the upper river-ports, Toronto and Hamilton. The St. 
Hiilene and Ottaiva make semi-weekly trips to the Bay of Quinte. The Quebec & 
Gulf Ports S. S. Co. despatch a weekly steamer from Montreal to Perc6, Charlotte- 
town, and Pictou. The Chambly runs semi-weekly from Montreal to Vercheres, 
Contrecoeur, Sorel, St. Ours, St. Denis, St.Antoine,St. Charles, St. Marc, St. Hilaire, 
Beloeil, St. Matthias, and Chambly (90 M.). The Three Rivers runs semi-weekly to 
Verchere.", Sorel, Maskinong6, Riviere du Loup en haut, Yamachiche, Port St. 
Francis, Champlain, and Three Rivers. The Berthier runs semi-weekly to Repen- 
tigny, St. Sulpice, Lavaltrie, Lanoraie, and Berthier. The Terrebonne runs daily to 
Boucherville, Varennes, Bout de I'Isle, Lachenaie, L'Assomption, and Terrebonne 
(24 M.). Ferry steamers cross the river at frequent intervals to La Prairie, St. Ljim- 
bert, and Longueuil. 

Montreal, the metropolis of the Dominion of Canada, and *' the Queen 
of the St. Lawrence," is one of the most beautiful cities on the continent. 
It is situated on an island (at the confluence of the Ottawa and St. Law- 
rence Rivers) containing 197 square miles, and which, from its fertility, 
has been called the Garden of Canada. The St. Lawrence is 1^ M. wide 
opposite the city, and the river-front is lined for over 1 M. with lofty and 
massive walls, quays, and terraces of gray limestone, unequalled else- 
where in the world, except at Liverpool, Paris, and St. Petersburg. The 
commercial buildings of the city are generally of stone, in plain and substan- 
tial architecture, and the number of fine public buildings is very large. 
Three fourths of the population are Catholics, most of whom are French, and 
the bright suburban villages are almost entu'ely inhabited by Frenchmen. 



MONTREAL. Route 75. 311 

Although Montreal is 800 M. from the sea, it is the port which receives the 
greater part of the importations to Canada; and its manufacturing interests 
are extensive and important. The admirable systems of railway and 
steamboat communication of which Montreal is the centre have made it 
the commercial emporium of the North ; and new lines of traffic and in- 
ternal railways are being built from year to year, binding all the St. Law- 
rence counties to this city. Montreal forms the Metropolitical See of the 
Anglican Church in Canada, and is the capital of a Roman Catholic dio- 
cese. The water-supply, street-lamps, paving, and fire department are 
similar to those of American cities of the first rank. 

The population of Montreal was 107,225, at the census of 1871, and it 
now probably contains 160,000 inhabitants (including the populations 
of the closely connected suburbs). In 1870 its assessed valuation was 
$47,679,000; its imports, $25,680,814; and its exports, $ 19,100,413. In the 
same year 602 vessels arrived here from the sea, and the customs revenue 
was $ 4,128,052. The city has 19 banks, 62 churches, more than 30 news- 
papers and magazines (in English and French), and scores of societies of 
freemasons, antiquarians, sportsmen, and cricket-players. There are 
numerous charitable and benevolent organizations, 6 building associations, 
3 musical clubs, and societies for the English, Scotch, Irish, French, Ger- 
man, and New-England residents. 

The Victoria Square is a public ground at the intersection of McGill 
and Great St. James Sts., ornamented with a fountain and a bronze statue 
of Queen Victoria. On its S. side is the elegant Gothic building which 
pertains to the Young Men's Christian Association, the oldest society of 
that name in America. On the lower side of the Square are the stately 
Albert Buildings, devoted to commerce ; and on the N. are the ruins of the 
great Irish headquarters, St. Patrick's Hall. 

Passing to the N. E. along Great St. James St., the visitor sees many 
fine stores, and the attractive buildings of * Molson's Bank (of Ohio stone 
and Scotch granite), the Merchants' Bank, the stately new * Post-Office, 
and other symmetrical and solidly constructed edifices. This street is the 
Broadway of Montreal. St. Peter St. runs to the S. E. by the stately 
Caverhill Buildings (of cut limestone in Italian Palazzo architecture) to 
St. Paul St., the seat of an extensive wholesale trade. The Central Wes- 
leyan Church, on Great St. James St., has a fine organ. In this vicinity 
are the chief hotels of the city, the St. Lawrence and the Ottawa. 

Opposite the beautiful Corinthian colonnade of the Bank of Montreal 
(beyond St. Francois Xavier St., the Wall St. of Montreal) the Place 
d'Armes is seen. This square was so named because it was the parade- 
ground of Montgomery's American army in 1775. Here is the lofty front 
of the * Church of Notre Dame, the largest church on the continent, 
with seats for 8,000 persons on the floor and 2,000 in the galleries. It is 
255^ ft. long and 144^ ft. wide, and has a chancel window of stained glass 



312 Route 75. MONTEEAL. 



1 



64 X 32 ft. in size. The interior is not striking, and the pictures are poor. 
There are two towers on the front, each 220 ft. high, and, like the church, 
in the simplest form of mediseval Gothic architecture. One tower has a 
chime of bells, and in the other hangs " Gros Bourdon," the largest bell 
in America, weighing nearly 15 tons. The tower is generally open (fee of 
25 c. to the door-keeper), and affords from its summit a noble * view of 
the city and its environs (especially of the city and river, the Victoria 
Bridge, and the islands). The suburbs of Laprairie, Longueuil, and St. 
Lambert, the Lachine Rapids, and the blue mountains of Vermont, are 
seen from this point. Alongside the church is the ancient Seminary of 
St. Sulpice, on the site of the Seminary of 1657, as the church is near the 
site of the Notre Dame of 1671. The present church was built in 1824-9, 
and was consecrated by the Bishop of Telmesse in partibus. The serai- 
nary consists of low and massive buildings, surrounded with gardens and 
court-yards of spotless neatness. It has 24 priests connected with its 
various works. 

" I soon found my way to the Church of Notre Dame. I saw that it was of great 

size and signified something Coming from the hurrahing mob and the rattling 

carriages, we pushed back the listed door of this church, and found ourselres in- 
stantly in an atmosphere which might be sacred to thought and religion, if one had 

any It was a great cave in the midst of a city ; and what were the altars and 

the tinsel but the sparkling stalactics, into which you entered in a moment, and 
where the still atmosphere and the sombre light disposed to serious and profitable 
thought ? Such a cave at hand, which you can enter any day, is worth a thousand 
of our churches which are open only Sundays." (Thoreau.) 

Fronting on the Place d'Armes are the elegant Ontario Bank and the 
hall of the Grand Lodge of the Masons of Canada. A short distance to the 
E., on Notre Dame St., an archway on the r. admits one to the extensive 
and secluded Convent of the Black Nuns (founded in 1657). Farther on, 
the * Court House is seen on the 1., — a stately stone building in Ionic 
architecture (300 X 125 ft.), back of which is the Champ de Mars, or 
Parade Ground, an open space covering 50,000 square yards, and ample 
enough for the display of 3,000 troops. The great structure fronting across 
Craig St. was built for the Dominion Military School, which is now estab- 
lished at Kingston. The Museum of the Canadian Geological Survey is 
on St. Gabriel St., opposite the Champ de Mars, and was founded by Sir 
William Logan. It contains a large collection of ores, building-stones, rare 
minerals, and one of the best palseontological museums in America. The 
new City Hall is to be erected on the E. side of the Champ de Mars. Just 
beyond the Court House the Jacques Cartier Square opens off Notre Dame 
St., and is encumbered with a dilapidated monument to Nelson. The 
Jacques Cartier Normal School (in the ancient French government build- 
ing) and the Institut Canadien (with a fine library) are near the head of 
this square. 

By the next side-street (St. Claude) to the r., the *Bonsecours Mar- 
ket may be visited. This market is unrivalled in America, and is built 



MONTREAL. Route 75. 313 

of stone, in qnasi-Doric architecture, at a cost of $300,000. It is three 
stories high, has a lofty dome, and presents an imposing front to the river. 
The curious French costumes and language of the country people who 
congregate here on market-days, as well as some peculiarities of the wares 
oifered for sale, render a visit very interesting. Alongside of the market 
is the Bonsecours Church (accommodating 2,000 persons), which was built 
in 1658. A short distance beyond are the extensive Quebec-Gate Barracks, 
on Dalhousie Square; and the Victoria Pier makes out into the stream 
towards St. Helen's Isle (a fortified depot of ammunition and war materiel), 
which was named by Champlain in honor of his wife. To the N-, on 
Craig St., is the attractive Viger Garden, with a small conservatory and 
several fountains, fronting on which is Trinity Church (Episcopal), built 
of Montreal stone, in early English Gothic architecture, and accommo- 
dating 4,000 persons. N. of Trinity, and also on St. Denis St., is St. 
James Church (Catholic), in the pointed Gothic style, with rich stained 
glass. Some distance E. of Dalhousie Square, on St. Mary St., are Mol- 
son's College (abandoned) and St. Thomas Church (Episcopal), with the 
great buildings of Molson's brewery and the Papineau Market and Square 
(on which are the works of the Canadian Rubber Co.). The suburb of 
Hochelaga (see page 318) is about 1 M. beyond the Papineau Square. 

McGill St. is an important thoroughfare leading S. from Victoria 
Square to the river. Considerable wholesale trade is done here and in 
the intersecting St. Paul St. The Dominion and Albert Buildings are 
rich and massive, and just beyond is St. Ann's Market, on the site of 
the old Parliament House. In 1849 the Earl of Elgin signed the obnoxious 
Rebellion Bill, upon which he was attacked by a mob, who also drove the 
Assembly from the Parliament House, and burnt the building. On ac- 
count of these riots, Montreal was decapitalized the same j^ear. Com- 
missioners' St. leads E. by St. Ann's Market and the elegant Custom- 
House to the broad promenades on the river-walls. Ottawa St. leads W. 
to the heavy masonry of the Lachine-Canal Basins and the vicinity of the 
Victoria Bridge. 

Radegonde St. and Beaver-Hall Hill run N. from Victoria Square, passing 
Zion Church, where the Gavazzi riots took place in 1853. The armed 
congregation repulsed the Catholic assailants twice, and then the troops 
restored order, 40 men having been killed or badly wounded. Just above is 
the Baptist Church, overlooked by the tall Church of the Messiah (Unitari- 
an), with St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church on the r. A few steps to the 
r., Lagaucheti^re St. leads to St. Patrick^s Church, a stately Gothic build- 
ing 240 X 90 ft., accommodating 5,000 persons, and adorned with a spire 
225 ft. high. The nave is very lofty, and the narrow lancet-windows are 
filled with stained glass. Near by, on Bleury St., are the massive stone 
buildings of St. Mary's College (Jesuit; 9 professors) and the * Church 
of the Gesti. The nave of the church (75 ft. high) is bounded by rich 
14 



314 Route 75. MONTREAL. 

composite columns ; and the transepts are 144 ft. long, and are adorned 
with fine frescos in chiaroscuro. 

Over the High Altar is the Crucifixion, and the Adoration of the Spotless Lamb, 
above which is the Nativity. Against the columns at the crossing of the nave and 
transepts are statues of St. Mark with a lion, St. Matthew with an ox, St. Luke with 
a child, and St. John with an eagle- On the ceiling of the nave are frescos of St. 
Thomas Repentant, the Bleeding Lamb, and the Virgin and Child amid Angelic 
Choirs. Medallions along the nave contain portraits of eight saints of the Order of 
Jesus. Over the Altar of the Virgin, in the 1. transept, is a fresco of the Trinity, 
near which is a painting of St. Aloysius Gonzaga receiving his first communion from 
St. Charles Borromeo, Cardinal Archbishop of Milan. To the r. is a fresco of St. 
Ignatius Loyola in the Grotto of Manresa, and on the 1. is Christ's Appearance to 
him near Rome, while above is Christ blessing Little Children. Over St. Joseph's 
Altar, in the r. transept, is a painting of the Eternal Father ; on the r. of which is 
another picture, St. Stanislaus Kostka receiving Communion from Angels. On the 
1. is a fresco of the Martyrdom of the Jesuits at Nagasaki (Japan) ; on the r. is the 
Martyrdom of St. Andrew Bobola, in Poland ; and above is the Raising of Lazarus. 
On the ceiling is the Holy Family at Work. 

Turning now to the W. on St. Catherine St., one soon reaches * Christ 
Church, Cathedral, the best representative of English Gothic architecture 
in America. It is built of Montreal and Caen stone, and is 112 ft. long, 
and 100 ft. wide at the transepts. A stately stone spire springs from the 
intersection of the nave and transepts, and attains a height of 224 ft. The 
choir is 46 ft. long, is paved with encaustic tiles, and contains a fine 
stained-glass window. On either side are elaborately carved stalls for 
the clergy; and the pointed roof of the nave (67 ft. high) is sustained by 
columns of Caen stone whose capitals are carved to represent Canadian 
plants. In front of the cathedral is a monument to Bishop Fulford, and 
on the N. is a quaint octagonal chapter-house, where the diocesan library 
is kept. The residence of the Lord Bishop (and Metropolitan of Canada) 
is near this building. One square E. of the cathedral (corner of Cathcnrt 
and University Sts.) is the large and interesting Natural-History Museum, 
which is open to the public (fee, 25 c). The Ferrier Collection of Egyptism 
Antiquities and the cases of Canadian birds are of much interest. Farther 
out on St. Catherine St. is the Crystal Palace. 

McGill University is about ^ M. from the cathedral, at the foot of 
Mount Royal. It was endowed in 1814 and opened in 1828, and has fac- 
ulties of Arts (9 professors), Medicine (10 professors), and Law (8 pro- 
fessors). The Medical School is N. of the main building, and the museum 
is worthy of a visit. The University is under the charge of Dr. J. W. 
Dawson (see page 138), and is the most flourishing institution of the kind 
in Lower Canada. The reservoir for the water-supply of Montreal is back 
of the University, 200 ft. above the river, and has a capacity of 15,000,000 
gallons. The water is taken from the St. Lawrence, li M. above the 
Lachine Rapids, flows for 5 M. in an open canal, and is then forced up to 
the reservoir by powerful machinery. A pleasant view of the city may 
be obtained from this terrace, and on the W. is Ravenscrafj, the mansion 
of Sir Hugh Allan. 



MONTREAL. Route 75. 315 

The * Great Seminary of St. Sulpice and the Montreal College are | 
M. S. W. of the University, and front on the same street (Sherbrooke). 
They occupy a portion of the broad ecclesiastical domain which is known 
as the Priests' Farm. The incongruous towers in front of the main build- 
ing pertained to the ancient college of the 17th century, and were at that 
time loopholed and held as a part of the defences of the town against the 
Iroquois Indians. The Seminary is for the education of Eoman Catholic 
priests, and has 4 professors and 112 students. The Montreal College is 
for the education of Canadian youth, and has 10 ecclesiastics for profes- 
sors and 260 students. It was founded in 1773 by the Sulpicians, who still 
remain in charge. The Seminary chapel is worthy of a visit, and the gar- 
dens about the buildings are said to be the finest in Canada. Sherbrooke 
St. and the environs of Mount Royal contain many elegant residences. 

Dorchester St. runs S. W. from Beaver-Hall Square, soon crossing Uni- 
versity St., on whose r. corners are the High School and the St. James 
Club. This street leads, on the 1., to the Normal and Model Schools ; and 
on the r. to the Natural-History Museum and the Cathedral. Dorchester 
St. passes on by St. Paul's Church (1. side) and the Knox Church (r. side) 
to Dominion Square, which occupies the site of a cemetery. In this 
vicinity are several fine churches, — the Wesleyan Methodist, a graceful 
building in the English Gothic style; the American Presbyterian, an ex- 
act copy of the Park Church in Brooklyn, N. Y. ; and St. George's Church 
(Episcopal), an elegant edifice in decorated Gothic architecture, with deep 
transepts, costly stained windows, a timber roof, and fine school-buildings 
attached. 

The new Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Peter is being erected at the cor- 
ner of Dorchester and Cemetery Sts. It is 300 ft. long and 225 ft. wide at the tran- 
septs ; and is to be surmounted by a stone dome 250 ft. high, supported on 4 piers 
(each of which are 36 ft. thick) and 32 Corinthian columns. 4 minor domes are to 
surround this noble piece of architecture. The portico is to resemble that of the 
Roman St. Peter's, surmounted also by colossal statues of the Apostles ; and gives 
entrance to the vestibule, which is 200 ft long and 30 ft. wide. The interior colon- 
nades support lines of round arches ; and there are 20 minor chapels. The exterior 
•walls are very massive, but extremely plain and rough. This building is to supply 
the place of the Cathedral on St. Denis St., which was burned in 1852. The design 
was conceived by Bishop Bourget, who secured the land, and after inspecting numer- 
ous plans in diEferent styles, determined to erect a cathedral like St. Peter's (though 
smaller). The architects went to Rome and studied the Vatican Ba;silica carefully, 
and the work was soon begun. At present strenuous exertions are being made by 
^he clergy, monks, and nuns to procure the needful funds to finish the building, 
and it is expected that it will be completed by the year 1884. 

The Bishop's Palace is on the E. of Dominion Square ; and Cemetery St. 
runs thence to St. Joseph's Church and the Bonaventure station of the 
Grand Trunk Railway. Beyond this point is the populous St. Ann's 
Ward, toward the great basins of the Lachine Canal. 

The * Gray Nunnery is nearly k M. S. W. of Dominion Square, near 
Dorchester St., and occupies an immense pile of stone buildings. This 
convent {Vndjjital General des Soeurs Crises) was founded in 1747, and 



316 Route 75. MONTEEAL. 

contains 202 nuns, 116 on mission, 42 novices and postulants, and over 600 
patients. It takes care of aged and infirm men and women, orphans and 
foundlings, and has large revenues from landed estates. Over 600 found- 
lings are received every year, of whom more than seven eighths die, and 
the remainder are kept in the convent until they reach the age of 12 years. 
Opposite the nunnery is Mont Ste. Marie, a large building which was 
erected for a Baptist college, but has become a ladies' boarding-school 
(169 students) under the Congregational Nuns of the Black Nunnery, who 
have, in the city, 57 schools and 12,000 pupils. This order was founded 
by Marguerite Bourgoys in 1659. 

The Nazareth Asylum for ike Blind is N. of the Gesii, on St. Cath- 
erine St., and has also an infant school with over 400 pupils. The chapel 
is built in a light and delicate form of Romanesque architecture, and is 
richly decorated and frescoed. On the same square are the handsome 
stone buildings of the Catholic Commercial Academy. To the E. (on 
Dorchester St.) is the General Hospital, with 150 beds; the Hospice of St. 
Vincent de Paul (30 brethren) and the Asile de la Providence (122 nuns) 
are near Labelle St. ; and numerous other convents and asylums are found 
throughout this singular city, which is both British and French, commer- 
cial and monastic, progressive and mediasval, — combining American en- 
terprise with English solidity and French ecclesiasticism. 

The * Hotel Dieu de Ville Marie is about 1 M. N. W. of Great St. James 
St., and is one of the largest buildings in Canada. The chapel is a spa- 
cious hall over which is a dome 150 ft. high, frescoed with scenes from the 
life of the Holy Family. This institution was founded in 1859, and is con- 
ducted by about 80 cloistered nuns of the Order of St. Joseph. There are 
generally about 500 persons in the building, consisting of the nuns and 
their charges, old and infirm men and women, orphans, and about 200 sick 
people. To the N. is the populous French suburb of St. Jean Baptiste 
(5,000 inhabitants), which is connected with the city by horse-cars on St. 
Lawrence Main St. 

* Mount Royal is S. W. of the Hotel Dieu and W. of the city, and is a 
long wooded ridge 750 ft. high. The larger part of this picturesque emi- 
nence has been purchased by the municipal government, and is being 
formed into a public park, whose natural attractions are certainly great. 
The Mount Royal Cemetery is on the W. slope, and is locally famous for 
its pleasant drives and artistic monuments (among which are those of the 
Molson family). 

Point St. Charles is beyond the Lachine-Canal Basins, and is traversed 
by the tracks of the Grand Trunk Railway. Near the Victoria Bridge is 
a great bowlder, surrounded by a railing, commemorating the place where 
were buried 6,500 Irish immigrants, who died here of ship-fever in the 
summer of 1847. The * Victoria Bridge is the longest and most costly 
bridge in Canada. It consists of 23 spans of 242 ft, each (the central one 



MONTEEAL. Route 75. 317 

330 ft.), resting on 24 piers of blue limestone masonry, cemented and iron- 
riveted, with sharp wedge faces to the down-current. The tubes contain- 
ing the track are 19 X 16 ft. and the bridge is approached by abutments 
2,600 ft. long and 90 ft. wide, which, with the 6,594 ft. of iron tubing, 
makes a total length of 9,194 ft. from grade to grade and over 1^ M. from 
shore to shore. The bridge was commenced in 1854, and finished in 1859; 
it contains 250,000 tons of stone and 8,000 tons of iron, and cost $ 6,300,000. 
There is a beautiful view of the city from the central tube. 

In the early autumn of 1535 Jaques Cartier heard, from the Indians of Quebec, 
of a greater town far up the river. The fearless Breton chief took 2 boats and 50 
men, and ascended the St. Lawrence to the Iroquois town of Hochelaga, occupying 
the present site of the metropolis of Canada. "Before them, wrapped in forests 
painted by the early frosts, rose the ridgy back of the Mountain of Montreal, and 
below, encompassed with its cornfields, lay the Indian town," surrounded with triple 
palisades arranged for defence. The French were admitted within the walls and 
rested on the great public square, where the women surrounded them in curiosity, 
and the sick and maimed were brought to them to be healed, " as if a god had come 
down among them." The warriors sat in grave silence while he read aloud the 
Passion of our Saviour (though they understood not a word) ; then presents were 
given to all the people, and the French trumpeters sounded a warlike melody. The 
Indians then guided their guests to the summit of the adjacent mountain, whence 
scores of leagues of unbroken forest were overlooked. Cartier gave to this fair emi- 
nence the name of Mont Royal, whence is derived the present name of the city. 

In 1603 this point was visited by the noble Cham plain, but Hochelaga had disap- 
peared, and only a few wandering Algonquins could be seen in the country. The 
Iroquois of the great town had been driven to the S. by the powerful Algonquins 
(such is the Mohawk tradition). 

At a later day a tax-gatherer of Anjou and a priest of Paris heard celestial voices, 
bidding them to found a hospital (Hotel Dieu) and a college of priests at Mont 
Royal, and the voices were followed by apparitions of the Virgin and the Saviour. 
Filled with sacred zeal, and brought together by a singular accident, these men won 
several nobles of France to aid their cause, then bought the Isle of Mont Royal, 
and formed the Society of Notre Dame de Montreal. With the Lordof Maisonneuve 
and 45 associates, in a solemn service held in the Cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris, 
they consecrated the island to the Holy Family under the name of " Ville Marie de 
Montreal " (Feb., 1641). May 18, 1642, Maisonneuve and his people landed at Mon- 
treal and raised an altar, before which, when high mass was concluded, the priest 
said, " You are a grain of mustard-seed that shall arise and grow until its branches 
overshadow the land. You are few, but your work is the work of God. His smile 
is on you, and your children shall fill the land." The Hotel Dieu was founded 
in 1647, and in 1657 the Sulpicians of Paris established a seminary here. In 1689, 
1,400 Iroquois Indians stormed the western suburbs, and killed 200 of the in- 
habitants, and a short time afterwards Col. Schuyler destroyed Montreal with troops 
from New York, leaving only the citadel, which his utmost efforts could not reduce. 
In 1760 Lord Amherst and 17,000 men captured the city, which then had 4,000 in- 
habitants, and was surrounded by a wall with 11 redoubts and a citadel. In 1775 
Ethan Allen attacked Montreal with a handful of Vermonters, and was defeated and 
captured, with 100 of his men. Gen. Prescott sent them to England as " banditti," 
and Allen was imprisoned in Pendennis Castle. In the fall of 1775 the city "waa 
taken by the American army under Gen. Montgomery. With the close of the War 
of 1812, a brisk commerce set in, and the city grew rapidly, having, in 1821, 18,767 
inhabitants. The completion of the Grand Trunk Railway greatly benefited this 
place, and its increase has for many years been steady, substantial, and rapid. In 
1832 the cholera destroyed 1,843 persons, out of a population of 30,()00 ; and in 1852 
a large part of the city was burned. 80 years ago vessels of over 300 tons could not 
reach Montreal, but a ship-channel has been cleared by the exertions of the mer- 
chants (headed by Sir Hugh Allan), and now the city is visited regularly by ocean 
steamships of 4,000 tons, and by the largest vessels of the merchant-marine. 



318 Route 76. "AROUND THE MOUNTAIN." 

76. The Environs of Montreal. . 

Montreal is situated on the S. E. side of the island of Montreal, -which | 
is 28 M. long, 10 M. wide, and 70 M. around. It is divided into 10 par- 
ishes, and is composed of fertile and arable soil, supporting a dense pop- \ 
ulation. The favorite drive is that * "Around the Mountain," a distance ; j 
of 9 M. The road passes out by the Hotel Dieu and through the suburb ' I 
of St. Jean Baptiste (whence a road runs E. to the limestone-quarries at 
Cote St. Michel). At Mile-End the carriage turns to the 1. and soon passes 
the avenue which leads (to the 1.) to the Mount Eoyal Cemetery. The 
road ascends to higher grades, and beautiful views open on the N- and W., 
including 13 villages, the distant shores of the Isle of Jesus, and the bright 
waters of Lake St. Louis and the Lake of the Two Mountains. On a clear 
day the spires of the Catholic College of St. Therese are seen, several 
leagues to the N., beyond the Eiviere aux Chiens. The village of Cote 
des Neiges (three inns) has an antique church, and is occupied by 1,200 
inhabitants. It was first settled by families from Cotd des Neiges in 
France, which derived its name from a legend that a miraculous cruci- 
form fall of snow took place there in August, marking the place on which 
a pious citizen afterwards built the Church of Noire Dame des Neiges. 
From this village the inter-mountain road leads E. to Montreal. On the 
lower slope of Mount Royal a platform has been built on the wall of the 
Seminary grounds, from which a beautiful * view is obtained. (The usual 
charges for the ride around the mountain are $ 1.50 for 2-3 persons, in a 
cab, or $2 for 4 persons; for a two-horse carriage, $4, for 1 -4 persons.) 

A road turns to the r. from Cote des Neiges and passes around the bold 
highlands S. of Mount Royal, through fair rural scenery. Beyond the 
hamlet of Cote St. Luc it reaches Cvte St. Antoine, the seat of the fine 
building and grounds formerly known as Monklands, when the home of 
Governor-General Lord Elgin. It is now called Villa Maria, and is occu- 
pied by the black nuns as a boarding-school. There are 25 sisters and 
172 pupils, most of whom are from the United States. Opposite Villa 
Maria is the Church of St. Luc. The short road from this point to the 
city is made interesting by beautiful views and fair villas, and for i M. 
after passing the toU-gate it skirts the Seminary grounds. 

The Sault au RecoUet is 7 M. W. of Montreal, on the Riviere des 
Prairies, and is frequently visited for the sake of its picturesque rapids. 
Picnic parties occupy the forest-covered Priests^ Island, whence the de- 
scent of rafts may be observed. The Convent of the Sacred Heart is 
beautifully situated amid pleasant grounds near the river. Opposite Sault 
au Recollet is the Isle Jesus, which is nearly 25 M. long, and contains 
the villages of St. Martin, St. Rose de Lima, and St. Vincent de Paul (near 
vs^hich is the Provincial Reformatory Prison). 

Hochelaga is at the N. E. end of the Montreal horse-car line, and is 



LACHINE RAPIDS. Route 76. 319 

the point where the Northern-Colonization and North-Shore Eailways are 
to terminate. It has a good harbor on the St. Lawrence, below the Rapid 
of St. Mary. There are several fine villas here, and the * Convent of the 
Sacred Name of Jesus and Mary is the most extensive monastic institu- 
tion in Canada. Hochelaga is 3 M. from the Victoria Bridge ; and 3-4 
M. farther E. is Longue Pointy near which the late Sir George E. Cartier 
resided. The river-road gives views of Longueuil, Boucher ville, and 
Varennes, on the S. shore. 

Lachine (three hotels) is 9 M. S. W, of Montreal, and is a favorite 
summer-resort of the citizens. The river-road is very picturesque ; and 
the upper road runs through the manufacturing town called Tannery 
West, which has over 4,000 inhabitants. Visitors usually go out on one 
road and return by the other. Lachine is at the foot of Lake St. Louis, 
and is noted for its annual regattas. It was so named by Champlain in 
1613, because he believed that beyond the rapids the river led to China 
{La Chine). In 1689 the Iroquois Indians destroyed the French town here, 
with all its inhabitants, 200 of whom .were burnt at the stake. Opposite 
Lachine is the populous village of Caughnawaga, inhabited by about 500 
of the orderly and indolent descendants of the Ii'oquois Indians, who are 
governed by a council of seven chiefs. 

The * Lachine Kapids may be visited by taking the 7 A. m. train (at 
the Bonaventure station) to Lachine, where a steamer is in waiting, by 
which the tourist returns through the rapids to Montreal. After taking a 
pilot from Caughnawaga, the steamer passes out. 

" Suddenly a scene of wild grandeur bursts upon the eye. Waves are lashed into 
spray and into breakers of a thousand forms by the submerged rocks which they 
are dashed against in the headlong impetuosity of the river. Whirlpools, a storm- 
lashed sea, the chasm below Niagara, all mingle their sublimity in a single rapid. 
Now passing with lightning speed within a few yards of rocks, which, did your ves- 
sel but touch them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the crash could 
sound upon the ear ; did she even diverge in the least from her course, — if her 
head were not kept straight with the course of the rapid, — she would be instantly 
submerged and rolled over and over. Before us is an absolute precipice of waters ; 
on every side of it breakers, like dense avalanches, are thrown high into the air. 
Ere we can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the wall of waves and foam 
like a bird, and in a second afterwards you are floating on the calm, unruflBed bosom 
of ' below the rapids.' " 

The steamer then passes under the central arch of the Victoria Bridge (see page 
316), and opens an imposing panoramic *view of the city. (Tickets for the round- 
trip cost 50 c. ; and the tourist gets back to Montreal about 9.30 A. m.) 

The Belceil Mountain may be visited in a day by taking the Grand 
Trunk Railway to Beloeil (22 M.), whence the mountain is easily ascended, 
passing a pretty little lake. On this peak (1,400 ft. above the St. Law- 
rence) the Bishop of Nancy erected an oratory surmounted by a huge tin- 
covered cross which was visible for over 30 M. The cross was blown down, 
several years ago. The * view from Beloeil includes a radius of 60 M. over 
the fertile and thickly settled plains of the St. Lawrence Valley, with the 
blue mountains of Vermont far away in the S. E. The Boucherville Moun- 
tain is reached from St. Bruno, a station on the Grand Trunk Railway, 



320 Route 76. OTTAWA. 

and commands fine views. There are 10 lakes on this ridge, one of which, 
the Manor Lake, is on a level with the top of the towers of Notre Dame, 
in Montreal. 

St. Anne {du Bout de VTsle) is 21 ]M. S. W. of Montreal, and may be 
reached in an hour by the Grand Trunk Eailway. It is a village of 1,000 
inhabitants, with two inns, and has an ancient church which is much 
revered by the Canadian boatmen and voyageurs. Many of the people of 
lilontreal visit this place dm-ing the summer. The village is at some dis- 
tance from the railway, between Lake St. Louis (of the St. Lawrence) and 
the Lake of the Two Mountains (of the Ottawa River). The Ottawa is 
here crossed by a fine railway-bridge, resting on 16 stone piers; and the 
famous Rapids of St. Anne are flanked by a canal. Here Tom Moore 
wrote his Canadian Boat-Song, beginning: — 

•' Faintly as tolls the evening chime, 
Our voices keep tune, and our oars keep time. 
Soon as the woods on shore look dim 
We '11 sing at St. Anne's our parting hymn. 
Row, brothers, row ; the stream runs fivst, 
The Kapids are near, and the daylight 's past. 

" Uttawa's tide ! this trembling moon 
Shall see us float o'er thy surges soon. 
Saint of this green isle ! hear our prayers ; 
0, grant us cool heavens and favoring airs ! 
Blow, breezes, blow ; the stream runs fast. 
The Rapids are near, and the daylight 's past." 

Steamers run daily up the Ottawa River to Ottawa (Russell Hotel), the capital 
of Canada. The Canadian ** Parliament House is situated on a lofty bluff 
over the Ottawa River, and is the finest specimen of Italian Gothic architecture in 
America or the world. The great * Victoria Tower in the centre of the facade is im- 
posing in its proportions ; and the polygonal structure of the Dominion Library is in 
the rear of the buildings. The halls of the Senate and Chamber of Commons are 
worthy of a visit, and are adorned with stained-glass windows and marble columns. 
In the" Senate is a statue of Queen Tictoria, and near the vice-regal throne are busts 
of the Prince and Princess of Wales. The departmental buildings which flank the 
Parliament House are statelv structures, in harmonious architecture, and of the 
same kinds of stone. The Cathedral of Notre Dame and the nunneries of the lower 
town are interesting ; also the new churches of the middle town (which, like^the 
rest of the city, is still undergoing a formative process). The **Cliaudiero 
Falls are just above the citv, where the broad Ottawa River plunges down over 
long and ragged ledges. In this vicinity are immense lumber-yards, with the con- 
nected industries which support the French Canadians, who form the majority of 
the citizens here. S. of the city are the pretty Rideau Falls. Steamers depart fre- 
quently for Montreal, and for the remote forests of the N. 



The river and city of Ottawa are fully described in the companion to 
this hand-book, Osgood's Middle States ("with the Northern Frontier 
from Niagara Falls to Montreal ; also, Baltimore, Washington, and North- 
ern Virginia"), which was published in 1874 and revised in 1875. It also 
includes descriptions of the Upper St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario, Lake 
Champlain and Lake George, and the routes from New York to Montreal. 

Osgood's New England contains also descriptions of Northern Vei-mont 
and New Hampshire, and the routes between Boston and Montreal or Que- 
bec (published in 1873, and revised in 1874 and 1875). 



INDEX 



Abattis, P. Q. 292. 
Advocate Harbor 103, 80. 
Agulquac River 54. 
Ainslie Glen 167, 169, 
Albert Bridge, C. B. 154. 
Albert Mines, N. B. 72. 
Alberton, P. E. I. 179. 
Albion Mines, N. S. 136. 
Aldouin River, 60. 
Alemek Bay, N. B. 63. 
Alexander Point 63. 
Alexis River 225. 
Allagash River, Me. 58. 
AUandale, N. B. 52. 
Alright Id. 184. 
Alston Point, N. B. 65. 
Amherst, N. S. 78, 74. 
Amherst Id. 183. 
Ancienne Lorette 281, 279. 
Andover, N. B. 54. 
Ange Gardien, P. Q, 283. 
Annandale, P. E. I. 182, 
Annapolis Basin, N. S, 84, 
Annapolis Royal 85. 
Annapolis Valley 88. 
Anticosti 234. 
Antigonish, N. S. 138. 
Apohaqui, N. B. 71, 48. 
Apple River, N. S. 80. 
Apsey Cove, N. P. 210. 
Aquafort, N. F. 198. 
Ardoise Mt. , N. S. 93. - 
Argentenay, P. Q. 290. 
Argyle, N. S. 116, 125. 
Arichat, C. B. 145. 
Arisaig, N. S. 139. 
Aroostook Valley, Me. 55. 
Arthurette, N. B. 54. 
Aspotogon Mt. , N. S. 127. 
Aspy Bay, C. B. 160. 
Athol, N. B. 80. 
Atlantic Gove, C. B. 160. 
Aulac, N. B. 74. 
Avalon,N. F.198,209. 
Avonport, N. S.91. 
Aylesford, N. S. 89. 
Aylesford Lakes 90. 

BaccaUeu Id. , N.F. 201, 205. 
14* 



Baccaro Point, N S. 123. 
Baddeck, C. B. 162. 
Baddeck River, 167. 
Bagotville, P. Q. 302. 
Bale des Rochers, P. Q. 295 
Bale St. Paul, P. Q. 292. 
Bale Verte, N S. 74. 
Ballard Bank, The 199. 
Ballyhaly Bog, N. F. 195, 
Bangor, Me. 39. 
Barachois, N. B. 59. 
Bareneed, N. F. 207. 
Barnaby Id,, P. Q. 250. 
Barra, Strait of 164. 
Barr'dIds.,N. F.210. 
Barrow, N. F. 214, 
Barrow Harbor 20a 
Barton, N. S. 112. 
Basin of Minas 101, 108. 
Basque Harbor 183. 
Basque Island 251. 
Bass River 81. 
Bathurst, N. B. 65, 61. 
Batiscan, P. Q. 307. 
Batteau Harbor 225. 
Battery Point, N. B. 68. 
Battle Id.,Lab. 224, 200,206, 
Bay, Argyle, N. S. 116. 

Belleisle, N. B. 42. 

Bonavista, N. F. 203. 

Bonne, Lab. 219. 

Bradore, Lab. 230. 

Bulls, N. F. 194, 197. 

Canada, N. F. 221. 

Cardigan, P. E. I. 175. 

Conception, N.F. 195, 206. 

De G;rave, N. F. 207. 

I>uVin,N. B. 61. 

East, C. B. 147. 

Esquimaux, Lab 230. 

Eternity, P. Q. 303. 

Fortune, N. F. 214. 

Garia, N. F. 215. 

Ha Ha, P. Q. 301. 

Hairs, N. F. 211. 

Hermitage, N. F. 215. 

Hillsborough 174, 175. 

Ingornachoix 219. 

Kennebecasis 40. 



Bay, Little, N. F. 215. 

Mahone, N. S. 118, 127. 

Miraniichi, N. B. 61. 

Oak, N. B. 34. 

ofChaleur64, 240. 

of Despair 215. 

of Fair and False 203. 

ofFundy31,83. 

of Islands 218. 

of Notre Dame, N. F. 210. 

ofSt John 219. 

Placentia, N. F. 212. 

Richmond, P. E. I. 178. 

Roberts, N.F. 207. 

St. Anne's, C. B. 158 

St. George's, N. F. 217. 

St. John's, P. Q. 304. 

St. Margaret's 126, 118. 

St. Mary's 112, 213. 

Sandwich, Lab. 225. 

Trinity, N. F. 208, 201. 

Verd, N. F. 201, 208. 

White, N. F. 221. 
Beach, The 206. 
Bear Cove 93. 
Bear Point 143, 
Bear River 85. 
Beaubair's Id,, N. B. 63. 
Beauljeu, P. Q. 289. 
Reaumont, P. Q. 254. 
Beauport, P, Q. 276. 
Beaver Bank, N. S. 93 
Beaver Harbor, C. B. 162. 
Beaver Harbor, N. B. 31. 
Beaver Harbor, N.S. 132. 
Beaver River 114. 
Becancour, P. Q. 307. 
Bedeque Bay, P. E. I. 174. 
Bedford Basin, N. S lOO. 
Bellechasse Id. 254. 
Belledune, N. B. 66. 
Belle Isle 220, 206. 
Belleisle Bay, N. B. 42. 
Bell Isle, N. F. 221. 
Belleorem, N. F. 214. 
Belliveau Cove, N. S. 112. 
Belliveau Village 73. 
Beloeil Mt., P. Q. 319. 
Benacadie Point 165. 

U 



322 



INDEX. 



Benmore 280. 
Bersiniis River 233. 
Berthier en bds '^bi. 
Berthier en liaut 308. 
Berwick, N. S. 90. 
Bicia.,P. Q. 251. 
Big Loran, C. B. 154. 
Big Tancook Id. 128. 
Biquette, P. Q. 251. 
Birch Point 64. 
Birchtown,N. S. 121. 
Bird Island Cove 202. 
Bird Isles 184. 
Bird Rock 161. 
Black Bay 228. 
Black Brook 61. 
Blackhead 196. 
Blackhead Cove 210. 
Black Point, N. S. 122. 
Black River, N. F. 212. 
Black River, P. Q. 295. 
Blancherotte, 0. B.'147. 
Blanc Sablon, Lab 229. 
Blandford, N. B. 27. 
Blind Lake, N. S. 126. 
Bliss Id, N. B. 31. 
Blissville, N. B. 49. 
Blockhouse Mines 153. 
Blomidon, Cape 102, 103. 
Bloody Bav, N. F. 203. 
Bloody Bridge 79 
Bloody Brook, N. S. 89. 
Blow-me-Down Head 207. 
BlueMts.,N, S, 90,115. 
Blue Pinion, N. F. 214. 
Blue Rocks, N, S, 118. 
Boar's Back, N. S. 82. 
Boar's Head, N, B, 40. 
Boiestown, N. B. 47, 62. 
Boisdale 162. 
Bonami Point 67. 
Bonaparte Lake 36. 
Bonaventure Id. 243. 
Bona vista Bay, N. F. 203. 
Bonhomme, Le 307. 
Bonne Bay 219. 
Bonne Esperance Bay 230. 
Bonnv, Lab. 230. 
Bon Portage Id. 124. 
Bonshaw, P. E. I. 174. 
Bothwell, P. E I. 182. 
Boucherville, P. Q. 309. 
Boularderie, C. B. 161. 
Bout de risle 308. 
Bradford's Cove 29. 
Bradore Bav, Lab. 230. 
Brae, P. E. I. 179. 
Braha,N. F. 221. 
Branch, N. F. 212. 
Brandies, The 201. 
Brandv Pots 252, 296. 
Bras d''Or, The 161. 
Breton, Cape 149, 154. 
Bridgeport, C. B. 152. 



Bridgetown, N. S. 88. 
Bridgeton,P. E. I. 182. 
Bridgewaterl28, 119. 
Brigg's Corner 49. 
Brighton, N. S. 112. 
Brigus, N. F. 207. 
Bristol, N. B. 51. 
Broad Cove, N. B. 29. 
Bread Cove, N. F. 203. 
Broad Cove, N. S. 120. 
Broad Cove Intervale 169. 
Brookfield, N. S. 82, 130. 
Brooklyn, N. S. 93. 
Brookvale, N. B. 48. 
Broyle Haxbor 197. 
Brucker's Hill 26. 
Brule Harbor 81. 
Brunet Id. 214. 
Bryant's Cove 207. 
Buctouche, N. B. 59. 
Bull Arm, N. F. 209, 
Bull Moose Hill 41. 
Burgeo, N. F. 215. 
Burgoyne's Ferry 51. 
Burin. N.F. 214, 212. 
BurUngton, N. S. 93. 
Burnt Church 62, 63. 
Burnt Head 207. 
Burnt Ridge 202. 
Burton, N. B. 43. 
Burying Place 211. 
Butter Pots, The 199. 

[Cacouna, P. Q. 296, 252. 
Calais, Me. 35. 
Caledonia Corner 130. 
Calliere, P. Q. 295. 
Calvaire, Miq. 185. 
Calvaire, P. Q 306. 
Cambridge, N. B. 42. 
Cambriol, N. F. 214. 
Campbell Riyer 55. 
Campbellton, N. B- 68. 
Camille, Mt. 249. 
Campobello Id- 25. 
Canaan River 72. 
Canada Bay 221. 
Canada Creek 90. 
Canning, N. B. 43. 
Canning, N. S. 91. 
Canso 142. 
Canterbury 37, 52. 
Cap a rAigle 294. 

au Corbeau 292. 

de la Magdelaine 307. 

de Meule 184. 

Rouge 281. 

St. Ignace 253. 
Cape Alright 184. 

Anguille, N. F. 217. 

Ballard, N. F. 213. 

Bauld, N. F. 220. 

Bear 175, 181. 

Blomidon, 91, 102, 103. 



Cape Bluff, Lab. 225. 
Breton, 149, 154. 
Broyle, N. F. 197. 
Canso, N. S. 134, 142. 
Chapeau Rouge 214, 189. 
Chatte, P. Q. 249. 
Chignecto, N. S. 104. 
Cove, N. S. 114. 
Cove, P. Q. 241. 
Colombier, P. Q. 233. 
Corneille, 294. 
Dauphin 158, 161. 
Desolation 226. 
Despair, P. Q. 241. 
Diable, P. Q. 252. 
d'Or, N. S. 103. 
East, P. Q. 301. 
Egmont, P. E.L 174,179. 
English, N. F. 213. 
Enrage, N. B. 72. 
Eternity, P. Q. 303. 
Fogo, N.F. 204,210. 
Fourchu, N. S. 125. 
Freels, N. F. 203, 213. 
Gaspe, P. Q. 246. 
George, P. Q. 304. 
Goose 294. 
Grand Bank 214. 
Gribaune 291. 
Jourimain 59, 73. 
Kildare 180. 
Labaie 292. 
Lahave, N. S. 120. 
La Hune 215. 
Largent 202. 
Mabou, C. B. 168. 
Magdelaine 248. 
Maillard 292. 
Marangouin 73. 
Morien, C. B. 153. 
Negro, N. S. 122. 
Norman, N. F. 220. 
North, C. B. 160. 
Perry, C. B. 153. 
Pine, N. F. 213. 
Porcupine, N. S. 144. 
Race, N. F 199, 189. 
Ray, N. F. 217, 216. 
Rhumore, C. B. 147. 
Ridge, N. F. 203. 
Rosewav, N. S. 121. 
Rosier 247, 246. 
Rouge 291. 
Sable, N. S. 123. 
St. Anne 249. 
St. Francis 201, 225, 301. 
St. George 218 
St. Lawrence 160, 170. 
St. Michael 225. 
St. Nicholas 233. 
Sambro 118, 93. 
Smoky, C. B. 159. 
Spear, N. F. 189, 196, 
Spencer 104, 83. 



INDEX. 



323 



Cape Split, N. S. 104. 

Tourmente 287, 253. 

Tourmentine 59, 73, 174. 

Traverse 174. 

Trinity, P. Q. 303. 

TryoQ, P. E. I. 178. 

Victoria, P. Q. 304. 

West 302. 

Whittle, Lab. 230. 

Wolfe 179. 
CapliQ Cove 198. 
Caraquette 66, 62. 
Carbonear, N. F. 208. 
Cardigan, N. B. 50. 
Cardigan, P. E. I. 181. 
Caribacon 145. 
Caribou Id. 175, 224. 
Caribou Plains 80. 
Caribou Point 233. 
Carleton, N. B. 24. 
Carleton, P. Q. 239. 
Carrousel Id. 233. 
Cascapediac Bay 240. 
Cascumpec 180. 
Castle Id., Lab. 227. 
Catalina, N. F. 201. 
Catalogue, C. B. 154. 
Cataracouy 280. 
Cat Cove 221. 
Caughnawaga 319. 
Cavendish, P. E. I. 178. 
Caverne de Bontemps 290. 
Cawee Ids. 233. 
Central Falmouth 91. 
Centre Hill 209. 
Chaleur, Bay of, 64, 240. 
Chamcook Mt. 33. 
Champlain, P. Q. 307. 
Chance Harbor 31. 
Change Ids. 205, 210. 
Channel, N. F. 216. 
ChapelId.,C. B. 147. 
Charlesbourg, P. Q. 279. 
Charlottetown,P. E. 1.175. 
Chateau Bay, Lab. 227. 
Chateau Bellevue 287. 
Chateau Bigot 280. 
Chateau Richer 284. 
Chatham, N. B. 61, 66. 
Chaudiere Falls 232. 
Chebucto Head 93. 
Chedabucto Bay 143. 
Chester, N. S. 127, 90. 
Cheticamp, C. B. 170. 
Cheticamp, N. S. 114. 
Chezzetcook, N. S. 131. 
Chicoutimi, P. Q. 300. 
Chignecto, Cape, 104. 
Chignecto Peninsula 79. 
Chimney Tickle 227. 
Chiputneticook Lakes, N. B. 

38, 46. 
Chivirie 93, 102, 106. 
Chouse Brook 221. 



Ciboux Ids. 161. 
Clairvaux, P. Q. 292. 
Clare, N. S. 113. 
Clarendon, N. B. 38. 
Clementsport, N. S. 85. 
Clementsvale 85. 
Clifton, N. B. 66, 71. 
Clode Sound 203. 
Cloridorme 248. 
Clouds, The, 221. 
Clyde River, N. S. 124. 
Coacocho River 231. 
CobequidMts.,N. S. 80. 
Cocagne, N. B. 59. 
Colebrooke, N. B. 55. 
Cole's Id. N. B. 47. 
Colinet, N. F. 213. 
Columbe 215 
Conception Bay 195, 206. 
Conche, N. F. 221. 
Contrecoeur, P. Q. 308. 
Corbin, N. F. 214. 
Cornwallis Valley, N. S. ! 

103, 107. 
Corny Beach 243. 
Cote' deBeaupre, 283. 

des Neiges 318. 

St. Antoine 318. 

St. Luc 318. 

St. Michel 318. 
Cottel's Id. 203. 
Coudres, Isle aux 293. 
Country Harbor 133. 
Covehead, P. E L 181. 
Cow Bay 101, 150, 153. 
Cox's Point 49. 
Crabb's Brook 217. 
Crane Id, P. Q. 253. 
Crapaud, P. E. I. 174. 
Creignish 168. 
Croque, N. F. 221. 
Cross Id., N. S. 118. 
Cumberland Bay 49. 
Cumberland Harbor 230. 
Cupids, N. F. 207. 

Dalhousie, N. B. 67. 
Dalibaire, P. Q. 249. 
Dark Cove, 30. 
Dartmouth, N. S. 101. 
Dauphiney's Cove 126. 
Davis Strait 226. 
Dead Ids. 216, 225. 
Deadman's Isle 184. 
Debec Junction 37. 
Debert 80, 105. 
Deep Cove 127. 
Deerfield, N. S 115. 
Deer Harbor 209. 
Deer Isle, N. B. 25. 
Deer Lake 37. 
Deer Pond 219. 
Demoiselle Hill 183. 
Denys River, C. B. 165. 



De Sable 174. 
Descente des Femmes 302. 
Deschambault 306. 
D'Escousse, C. B. 145. 
Despair, Bay of, 215. 
Despair, Cape, 241. 
Devil Id. 93. 
Devil's Back, N. B. 41. 
Devil's Goose-Pasture 90. 
Devil's Head 34. 
Diable Bay 228. 
Digby, N. S. 84. 
Digby Neck 116. 
Dipper Harbor 31. 
Distress Cove 212. 
Dodding Head 214. 
Dollannan Bank 202. 
D'Or, Cape, N. S. 103. 
Dorchester, N. B. 73. 
Doucet's Id. N. B. 34. 
Douglas Harbor 49. 
Douglastown, N. B. 62. 
Douglastown, P. Q. 244. 
Douglas Valley 38. 
Dumfries, N. B. 52. 
Dundas, N. B. 59. 
Dundas, P. E. 1. 182. 
Dunk River 174. 

Earltown,N. S. 136. 
East Bay 147, 165, 214. 
Easteri;! Passage 93. 
East Point 182. 
Eastport, Me. 26, 
East River 12G, 225. 
Eboulements, Les, 294. 
Echo Lake 131. 
Economy Point 105, 80. 
Ecureuils, Les, 306. 
Eddy Point 143. 
Edmundston, N. B. 57. 
Edoobekuk, C B. 147. 
Eel Brook 30. 
Egg Ids., Lab. 233. 
Ekum Sekum, N. S. 132. 
EUershouse, N. S. 93. 
Elliot River 174. 
Elmsdale, N. S. 82. 
Elysian Fields, N. S. 79. 
Enfield, N. S. 82. 
English Harbor 201. . 
English Harbor West 214. 
English Point 233. 
Englishtown, C. B. 158. 
Enniskillen, N. B. 38. 
Entry Id. 184. 
Escasoni, C. B. 148. 
Escuminac Point 61. 
Esquimaux Bay 230, 244. 
Eternity Bay 303. 
Exploits Id. 205, 210. 
Exploits, River of 210. 
Factory Dale, N. S. 89, 
Fairville, N. B. 37. 



324 



INDEX. 



Fairy Lake, N. S. 130. 
Falkland, N. S. 90, 93. 
Falls, Chaudiere 282, 320. 

Chicoutimi, P. Q. 300. 

Grand 55, 66. 

Grand, N. F.210. 

Grande-Mere 307. 

Lorette, P. Q. 278. 

Magaguadavic 32. 

Manitousin 232. 

Montmorenci 277. 

Nictau, N. S. 89. 

North River 105. 

Pabineau, N. B. 66. 

Pokiok, N. B. 52. 

Pollett 72. 

Rideau, Ont. 320. 

Riviere du Loup 295. 

Riviere du Sud 253. 

St. Anne, P. Q. 286. 

Sault k la Puce 284. 

Shawanegan 307. 

Sissiboo, N. S. 112. 
Falmouth, N. S. 91. 
Farmington, N. S. 89. 
Father Point, P. Q. 250. 
Ferguson's Cove 101, 
Fermeuse, N. F. 198. 
Fern Ledges 24. 
Ferry land, N. F. 198. 
Fish Head 30. 
Five Ids., N. S. 105, 80. 
Flagg's Cove 29. 
Flem-ant Point 67. 
Flint Id., C.B. 150,153. 
Florenceville, N. B. 53. 
Flower Cove 219. 
Fogo, N. F. 204. 
Folly Pass, N. S. 80. 
Forks, The 48, 54. 
Fort Beaubassin 74, 78. 
Fort Beausejour 74, 78. 
Fort Cumberland 74, 78. 
Forteau, Lab. 228. 
Fort Fairfield, Me. 54. 
Fort Ingalls, N. B. 58. 
Fort Jaques Cartier 306. 
Fort Kent, Me. 58. 
Fort Lawrence 74. 78. 
Fort Meductic, N. B. 52, 46. 
Fort Nascopie, Lab. 226. 
Fort Norwest, Lab. 226, 
Fortune, N. F. 214. 
Foster's Cove 54. 
Fourchette, N. F. 221. 
Fourchu, C. B. 147. 
Fox Harbor, N. S. 103, 81. 
Fox Harbor, Lab. 224. 
Fox River 248. 
Framboise, C.B. 147. 
Frazer's Head 104. 
Fredericton, N. B. 44. 
Fredericton June. 38. 
French Cross, N. S. 89. 



French Fort Creek ISO. 
French Lake 48. 
Frenchman's Cove 214. 
French River 138. 
French Shore, The 216. 
French Village 151. 
Frenchville, Me. 57. 
Freshwater Bay 203. 
Friar's Face S6, 
Frozen Ocean 130. 
Funk Id., N. F. 204. 

Gabarus Bay 154, 149. 
Gagetown, N. B. 42, 48. 
GairlochjN. S. 136. 
Galantry Head 185. 
Gambo Ponds 203. 
Gander Bay 210. 
Gannet Rock, N. B. 29. 
Gannet Rock 184. 
Garia Bay 215. 
Garnish, N. F. 214. 
Gaspe,P. Q. 244. 
Gaspereaux Lake 90. 
Gay's River, N. S- 82. 
Gentilly, P. Q. 307. 
George Id. 179. 
George's Id., N. S. 98. 
Georgetown,P. E.I. 181, 175 
Gibson, N. B. 49. 
Gilbert's Cove 112. 
Glac# Bay 153, 150. 
Glengarry. N. S. 136. 
Goat Id., N. S. 85. 
Godbout, Lab. 233. 
Goldenville, N. S. 133. 
Gold River 128, 
Gondola Point 71, 
Gooseberry Isles, 203. 
Goose Id. 253. 
Gouffre, Le 293. 
Gowrie Mines 153. 
Grand Anse, C. B. 145. 
Grand Anse, N. B. 66. 
Grand Banks, The 199. 
Grand Bay 40. 
Grand Digue 145. 
Grande Bale 302. 
Grande-Mere Falls 307. 
Grand Falls, Lab. 226. 
GrandFalls,N. B. 55. 
Grand Greve, P. Q. 244. 
Grand Harbor 29. 
Grand Lake 36, 48. 
Grand Lake Stream 35. 
Grand Manan 28. 
Grand Narrows 164. 
Grand Pond 218, 211. 
Grand Pre 107, 91,101. 
Grand River, C. B. 147. 
Grand River, N. B. 56. 
Grand River 241. 
Grand-River Lake 147. 
Grand Rustico 178. 



Grandy's Brook, 215. 
Grant Isle, Me. 57. 
Granville, N. S. 86. 
Great Bartibog 61. 
Great Boule 233. 
Great Bras d'Or 161, 164. 
Great Codroy 217. 
Great Ha Ha Lake 302. 
Great Harbor Deep 221. 
Great Meccatina 230. 
Great Miquelon 186. 
Great Pabos 241. 
Great Pond 248. 
Great Pubnico Lake 124. 
Great St. Lawrence 214. 
Great Shemogue 59. 
Great Village 81. 
Green Bay 211. 
Greenfield 130. 
Green Harbor 209. 
Green Ids. 124, 214, 252. 
Greenly Id. 229. 
Green River 57. 
Greenspond, N. F. 203. 
Greenville 80. 
Greenwich Hill 41. 
Grenville Harbor 178. 
Griffin's Cove 248. 
Griguet, N. F. 221. 
Grimross, N. B. 42. 
Grindstone Id. 183. 
Grondines, P. Q. 306. 
Grosse Isle 254. 
Grosses Coques 113. 
Gull Rock 121. 
Gut of Canso 142. 
Guysborough 133. 

Habitants Bay 143. 
HaHaBay,P. Q. 301. 

Halifax, N. S. 93. 

Admiralty House 97. 

Cathedral 98. 

Citadel 96. 

Dalhousie Coll. 98. 

Gov't House 98. 

Harbor 93. 

Hortic. Gardens 98. 

Museum 98 

Parliament Building 95. 

Provincial Building 95. 

Queen's Dockyard 97. 

Y. M. C. A. 96. 
Halifax, P. E. I. 179. 
Hall's Bay 211, 218. 
Hammond's Plains 100. 
Hampton, N. B. 71. 
Hampton, N. S. 89. 
Hantsport, N. S. 91, 101. 
Harbor Briton 214. 
Harbor Buffet 212. 
Harbor Grace, N. F. 207. 
Harborville, N. S. 90. 
Hare Bay, N. F. 221. 



INDEX. 



325 



HareId.,P. Q. 252. 
Hare's Ears 198. 
Hare's-Head Hills 218. 
Harmony, P. E. I. 182. 
Harvey, N. B. 38. 
Harvey Corner 72. 
Haulover Isthmus 14;6. 
Havelock, N. S. 89. 
Head of Amherst 78. 
Heart Ridge, N. F. 210. 
Heart's Content 208. 
Heart's Delight 209. 
Heart's Desire 209. 
Heart's Ease, N. F. 209. 
HebertviUe, P. Q. 300. 
Hebron, Lab. 226. 
Heights of Land 226. 
Hell Hill 197. 
Hermitage Bay 215. 
Herring Cove, N. S. 93. 
High Beacon 227. 
Highland Park 23. 
Highland Village 81. 
High Point 301. 
Hillsborough, N. B. 72. 
Hillsborough Bay 174. 
Hillsborough River 180. 
Hillsburn 86. 
Hochelaga, P. Q. 318. 
Hodge- Water River 213. 
Holland Bay, 180. 
Holy rood, N. F. 199. 
Holyrood Pond 213. 
Hooping Harbor 221. 
Hope, P. Q. 241. 
Hope All, N. F. 209. 
Hopedale, Lab. 226. 
Hopewell 136. 
Hopewell Cape 72. 
Horton Landing 91. 
Houlton,Me. 37,51. 
Howe's Lake 23. 
Hudson's Strait 226. 
Humber River 219. 
Hunter River 177, 178. 

Indian Bay 167, 203. 
Indian Beach 30. 
Indian Gardens 130. 
Indian Id., Lab. 225. 
Indian Ids. 210. 
Indian Lorette 278. 
Indian Tickle 225. 
Indiantown, N. B. 47- 
Indian Village 51. 
Ingonish,C.B. 159. 
Intervale 133. 
lonclay Hill 197. 
Irish Cove, C. B. 147. 
Ironbound Cove, N. B 49. 
Ironbound Id., N. S. 119. 
Island, Alright 184. 

Amherst 183. 

Anticosti 234. 



Island, Baccalieu, N. F. 201. 
Barnaby, P. Q. 250. 
Beaubair's 63. 
Bellechasse 254. 
Bic,P. Q. 250. 
Blackbill 227. 
Bonaventure 243. 
Bon Portage 124. 
Boughton 175. 
Boularderie 161. 
Brandy Pots 252. 
Brier 117. 
Brunet 214. 
Bryon 184. 
Campobello 25. 
Cape Breton 141. 
Cape Sable 123. 
Caribou 175, 224. 
Carrousel 233. 
Castle, Lab. 227. 
Caton's 41. 
Cawee 233. 
Chapel 147. 
Cheticamp 170. 
Cheyne 29. 
Christmas 164. 
Cobbler's 203. 
Coffin 184. 
Cole's 47. 
Cottel's 203. 
Crane, P. Q. 253. 
Cross, N. S. 118. 
Dead, N. F. 225. 
Deer 203. 
Devil, N. S. 93. 
Egg, Lab. 233. 
Entry 184. 

Esquimaux, Lab. 231. 
Exploits, N. F. 205, 210. 
Fair, N. F. 203. 
Fishflake 227. 
Fly 225. 

Fogo, N. F. 204, 210. 
Foster's, N. B. 41. 
Fox, N. B. 61. 
Funk, N. F. 203. 
George 179. 
George's, N. S. 98, 
Goat, N. S. 85. 
Goose, P. Q. 253. 
Governor's 175. 
Grand Dune 61. 
Grand Manan 28. 
Grassy, N. B. 41. 
Great Caribou 224. 
Green 124, 201, 220, 252. 
Grimross, N. B. 43. 
Grindstone 72, 183. 
Grosse 184. 
Hare, P. Q. 252. 
Henry 169. 
Heron 67. 
Horse 221. 
Huntington 225. 



Island, Indian 225. 
Ireland, N. F. 215. 
Ironbound 119. 
Jaques Cartier 220. 
Kamouraska 252. 
Large 231. 

Lennox, P. E. I. 179. 
Little Miquelon 186. 
Little Bay 211. 
Locke's, N. S. 121. 
Long 42, 101,107, 117, 212. 
Lower Musquash 42. 
McNab's, N. S. 101, 93. 
Madame, P. Q. 254. 
Mauger's 48. 
Melville 101. 
Merasheen 212. 
Middle 43. 
Miquelon 186. 
Miscou 64. 
Moose 26. 
Nantucket 29. 
Negro 122. 
Newfoundland 187. 
New World 205. 
of Ponds 225. 
Panmure, P. E. I. 175. 
Park, P. E. I. 179. 
Partridge, N. B. 15. 
Partridge, N. S. 102, 1C3. 
Penguin 203. 
Pictou, N. S. 175. 
Pilgrims 252. 
Pincher's 203. 
Pinnacle 105. 
Pocksuedie 63. 
Pool's 203. 
Portage 61. 
Priests' 318. 
Prince Edward 172. 
Quarry 231. 
Quirpon 220. 
Ram 121. 

Random, N. F. 209. 
Reaux, P. Q. 254. 
Red 212, 218, 252. 
Sable 134. 
Saddle 228. 
Sagona 214. 
St. Barbe 221. 
St. Paul's 160. 
St. Pierre 185. 
Sandous 46. 
Seal, N. S. 124. 
Sea-Wolf 169. 
Sheldrake 61. 
Shippigan 63. 
Smith's 169. 
Spencer's 103, 104, 106. 
Spotted, N. F. 225. 
Square, Lab. 225. 
Stone Pillar 253. 
Sugar 60, 51. 
Venison 225. 



326 



INDEX. 



Island, Vin, N. B 61. 
White Head 29. 
White Horse 31. 
Wolf 184. 
Wood Pillar 253. 
Islands, Battle 224. 
Bnrnt 215. 
Camp 227. 
Ciboux 161. 
Dead 215. 
Five 105. 

Little St. Modeste 228. 
Magdalen 183. 
Mingan 231. 
Mutton 124. 
Penguin 203. 
Ragged 212. 
Ramea 215. 
Ram's, N. F. 212. 
Red 147. 
Seal 225. 
Seven, Lab. 232. 
Tancook, N. S. 128. 
Tusket, N. S. 125. 
Isle aux Chiens 185. 
aux Coudres 293. 
Bell, N. F. 221. 
Belle 206, 220. 
Deadman's 184. 
Deer, N. B. 25. 

Groais 221. 

Haute 104. 

Jesus 318. 

Madame 145. 

of Orleans 288. 

St. Louis 304. 

St. Therese 308. 

Terte, P Q. 252. 
Isles, Bird 184. 

Burgeo 215. 

de la Demoiselle 230. 

Gooseberry 203. 

Passe Pierre 305. 

Peterel 227. 

Twillingate 205. 

Wadham, N. F. 203. 

West, N. B. 25, 31. 

Jackson's Arm 221. 
Jacksonville, N. S. 90. 
Jaques Cartier 306. 
Jebogue Point 125. 
Jeddore, N. S. 132. 
Jemseg, N. B. 42, 48. 
Jerseyman Id. 145. 
Jesus, Isle 318. 
Jeune-Lorette 278. 
Joe Batt's Arm 210. 
Joggins Shore 80. 
Jolicceur, N. B. 73. 
Joliette, P. Q. 
Jonquiere 300. 
Judique, C.B. 168. 
Juliaushaab, Gr. 226. 



Kamouraska, P. Q. 252. 
Keels, N. F. 203. 
Kegashka Bay 231. 
Kempt Head 162. 
Kempt, N. S. 115. 
Kempt Lake, N. S. 90. 
Kennebecasis Bay 40, 22. 
Kenogami, P. Q. 300. 
Kensington 178. 
Kentville, N. S. 90. 
Keswick Valley 50. 
Keyhole, N. B. 49. 
Kingsclear, N- B. 51. 
King's Cove 203. 
Kingston, N. B. 42. 
Kingston, N. S. 89. 
Kouchibouguac Bay 61. 

La Bonne St. Anne 285. 
Labrador 223. 
Lac k la Belle Truite 302. 
Lachine, P. Q. SIO. 
La Fleur de Lis 221. 
Lahave River 128. 
Lake Ainslie 167, 169. 

Bathurst 211. 

Bear 38. 

Beauport 279. 

Belfry 154. 

Ben Lomond 23. 

Blind 126. 

Catalogue, C. B. 154. 

Cedar, N. S. 115. 

Chamberlain, Me. 58. 

Chesuncook 58. 

Cleveland 57. 

Cranberry 38. 

Croaker's 211. 

Echo, N. S. 131. 

Fairy, N. S. 130. 

French, N. B. 48. 

Gabarus, C. B. 154. 

Gaspereaux 90. 

George 51, 90, 115. 

George IV. 211. 

Grand 48, 36, 82. 

Gravel 295. 

Great Ha Ha 302. 

Jones 23. 

Kempt 90. 

Lewey's, Me. 35. 

Lily, N. B. 22. 

Little Ha Ha 302. 

Long, P. Q. 58. 

Long, N. S. 82. 

Magaguadavic 38. 

Malaga, N. S. 129. 

Manor, P. Q. 319. 

Maquapit, N. B. 48. 

Metapedia 69. 

Mira, C. B. 154. 

Mistassini 301. 

Moosehead 58. 

Mount Theobald 71. 



Lake Neplsignit 55. 

Nictor, N. B. 55. 

Oramocto 38. 

Pechtaweekagomic 58. 

Pemgockwahen 58. 

Pockwock 100. 

Pohenagamook 58. 

Ponhook, N. S. 126. 

Porter's 131. 

Port Medway 130. 

Preble, Me. 57. 

Prince William 52. 

Queen's, N. B. 37. 

Quiddy Viddy 195. 

Robin Hood 37. 

Rocky, N. S. 82. 

Rossignol 130 w 

St. Charles 279. 

St. Joachim 287. 

St. John, P. Q. 301. 

St. Peter, P. Q. 307. 

Sedgwick 57. 

Segum Sega 130. 

Sheogomoc 52. 

Shepody, N. B. 72. 

Sherbrooke 90. 

Sherwood, N. B. 37. 

Ship Harbor 132. 

S. Oromocto 38. 

Spruce, N. B. 21 

Stream 49. 

Taylor's 23. 

Temiscouata 58, 295- 

Terra Nova 203. 

Tracy's, N. B. 71. 

Tusket, N. S. 115. 

Two-Mile 90. 

Utopia, N. B. 32. 

Vaughan, N. S. 115. 

Washademoak 47, 42. 

Welastookwaagamis 58. 

Wentworth 113. 

Windsor, N. F. 195. 

Winthrop, Me. 58. 
Lakes, Aylesford 90. 

Bras d'Or 161. 

Chiputneticook 38. 

Dartmouth 101. 

Eagle, Me. 58. 

Schoodic,Me. 35. 

Tusket, N. S. 115. 
La Manche 197, 212. 
Lance-au-Loup 228. 
Lance Cove 206. 
Land's End, 41. 
Langley Id. 186. 
Lanoraie, P. Q. 308. 
L'Anse k I'Eau 305. 
La Poile, N. F. 215. 
L'Archeveque 147. 
L'Ardoise, C. B. 146. 
Large Id. 231. 
LaScie221,21]. 
L'Assomption, P. Q. 308. 



IIS^DEX. 



327 



Laval River 299. 
Lavaltrie, P. Q. 308. 
La Vieille 246. 
Lawlor's Lake 70. 
Lawrencetown 89, 131. 
Lazaretto, Tracadie 62. 
Ledge, The 35. 
Leitchfield, N. S. 86. 
Lennox Id. 179. 
Lennox Passage 145. 
Les Eboulements 294. 
Les Ecureuils 306. 
Les Escoumains 233. 
L'Etang du Nord 184. 
L'Etang du Savoyard 185. 
L'Etang Harbor 31. 
Letite Passage 32. 
Levis, P. Q. 282. 
Lewey's Id. 35. 
Lewis Cove 47- 
Lily Lake 22. 
Lingan 152, 150. 
Lion's Back 23. 
Liscomb Harbor 132. 
L'Islet, P. Q. 253. 
L'Islet au Massacre 250. 
Little Arichat 145. 
Little Bay Id. 205, 211. 
Little Bras d'Or 161. 
Little Falls 57. 
Little Glace Bay 153. 
Little Ha Ha Lake 302. 
Little Loran 154. 
Little Miquelon 186. 
Little Narrows 167. 
Little Pabos 241. 
Little Placentia 212. 
Little River 22. 
Little Rocher 72. 
Little Saguenay 304. 
Little St. Lawrence 214. 
Little Seldom-come-by 210. 
Little Shemogue 59. 
Little Tancook 128. 
Liverpool, N. S. 120, 130. 
Lobster Harbor 221. 
Loch Alva 37. 
Loch an Fad 147. 
Loch Lomond, C. B. 147. 
Loch Lomond, N. B. 22. 
Lochside, C. B. 147. 
Loch Uist 147. 
Locke's Id. , N. S. 121. 
Logic Bay 195, 200. 
Londonderrv 105. 
Longld.40; 42. 101,117. 
Long Pilgrim 252. 
Long Point 231. 
Long Range 217. 
Long Reach 41. 
Long's Eddy 30. 
Longue Point 319. 
Lorette, Indian 278. 
Lotbiniere, P. Q 306. 



Louisbourg, C. B. 154, 149. 
Loup Bay 228. 
Low Point 168. 
Lower Canterbury 52. 
Lower Caraquette 66. 
Lower French Vill 51. 
Lower Horton 107. 
Lower Middleton 89. 
Lower Prince William 51. 
Lower Queensbury 51. 
Lower Woodstock 52. 
Lubec, Me. 26. 
Ludlow, N. B. 47. 
Lunenburg 118, 128. 

Mabou, C. B. 169. 
Mabou Valley 168. 
McAdam June. 38. 
Maccan, N. S. 80, 79. 
Mace's Bay 31. 
McNab's Id. 101, 93. 
Madawaska 57. 
Magaguadavic River 32. 
Magdalen Ids. 183. 
Magdelaine, Cape 248. 
Maguacha Point 67, 239. 
Magundy, N. B. 51. 
Mahogany Road 24. 
Mahone Bay 127, 118. 
Main-i-Dieu 150. 
Maitland 82, 105, 129. 
Malaga Lake 130. 
Malagawdatchkt 165. 
Malbaie, P. Q. 294. 
Mai Bay 244. 
Malcolm Point 61. 
Malignant Cove 139. 
Malpeque Harbor 178. 
Manchester, N. S. 133. 
Manicouagan 233, 250. 
Manitousin FaUs 232. 
Maquapit Lake 48. 
Marchmont 280. 
Margaree River 167. 
Margaree Forks 170. 
Margaretsville 89. 
Maria, P. Q. 240. 
Marie Joseph 132. 
Marion Bridge 154. 
Marshalltown 112. 
Mars Head 117. 
Mars Hill 54. 
Marsh Road 22. 
Marshy Hope 138. 
Mascarene 32. 
Masstown 81. 
Matane, P. Q. 249. 
Mattawamkeag 39, 58. 
Maugervilie. N. B. 43. 
Mealy Mts. 225. 
Meccatina, Lab. 230. 
Medi.?co, N. B. 66. 
Meductic Rapids 52. 
Mejarmette Portage 40. 



Melford Creek 143. 
Melrose, N. S. 82. 
Melvern Square 89. 
Melville Id. 101. 
Melville Lake 226. 
Memramcook 73. 
Merasheen Id. 212. 
Merigomish 138. 
Metapedia 69, 
Meteghan, N. S. 113. 
Metis, P. Q. 249. 
Middle Musquodoboit 82. 
Middle River 163, 167. 
Middle Simonds, 53. 
Middle Stewiacke 81. 
Middleton, N. S. 89. 
Milford, N. S. 129. 
Milford Haven 133. 
Milkish Channel 41. 
Mill Cove, N. B. 49. 
Miile Vaches 299. 
Milltown, N. B. 35. 
Mill Village 128. 
Minas Basin 101, 108. 
Mingan Ids., Lab. 231. 
Ming's Bight 221. 
Minister's Face 22. 
Minudie, N. S. 79. 
Miquelon 185, 214. 
Mira Bay 150. 
Mira Lake, C. B. 154. 
Miramichi, N. B. 61. 
Miscouche 179. 
Miscou Id. 64. 
Mispeck, N. B. 23. 
Missiguash Marsh 79, 74. 
Mission Point 68. 
Mistanoque Id. 230. 
Mistassini, Lake 301. 
Moisic River 232. 
Molasses Harbor 134. 
Momozeket River 55. 
Moncton, N. B. 72. 
Money Cove 30. 
Montague Bridge 181. 
Montague Mines 101, 131. 
Mont Joli 231. 
Mont Louis 249. 
Montmorenci Falls 277. 
Montreal, P. Q. 309. 

Bonsecours Market 312. 

Champ de Mars, 312. 

Christ Ch. Cathed. 314. 

Court House 312. 

Dominion Sq. 315. 

Geolog. Museum 312. 

Gesu Church 313. 

Gray Nunnery 315. 

Great Seminary 315. 

Hotel Dieu 316. 

Institut Canadien 312. 

McGill Univ. 314. 

Montreal Coll. 315. 

Mt. Royal 316. 



328 



INDEX. 



Montreal, Nazareth Asyl. 
316. 

New Cathedral 315. 

Notre Dame 311. 

Place d'Armes 311. 

Post-Office 311. 

Seminary 312. 

St. Helen's Isle 313. 

Victoria Bridge 316. 

Victoria Square 811. 
Moose Harbor 120. 
Moosepath Park 22. 
Morden, N. S. 89. 
Morrell,P. E. I. 182. 
Morris Id. 116. 
Morristown 90, 139. 
Mosquito Cove 208. 
Moss Glen 22. 
Moulin a Baude 299. 
Mount Aspotogon 127. 

Blair 32. 

Calvaire 186. 

Camille 250. 

Chapeau 186. 

Dalhousie 67. 

Denson 91. 

Eboulements 294, 253. 

Granville 146. 

Ilawley 89. 

Hermon Cemet. 280. 

Joli 242. 

Nat 225. 

Pisgah 71. 

Royal 316, 318. 

St. Anne 242. 

Stewart, P. E. 1. 181. 

TenerifFe, N. B. 55. 

Uniacke, N. S. 93. 
Mountain, Ardoise, 93. 

Bald, 38, 55. 

Belceil 319. 

Boar's Back 132. 

Boucherville 319. 

Chamcook 33. 

North 84. 

Salt 168. 

South 84. 

Sugar-Loafl59. 

Tracadiegash 67, 239. 
Mountains, Antigonish 139 

Baddeck 163. 

Blue 84,90,115,130. 

Cobequid 80. 

Ingonish 161. 

Mealy 225. 

Notre Dame 249. 

St. Anne 287. 

St. Margaret 302. 

Scaumenac 68. 

Sporting 146. 
Mull River 168. 
Murray Bay 294. 
Murray Harbor 181. 
Mushaboon Harbor 132. 



Musquash, N. B. 31. 
Musquodoboit 131. 
Mutton Ids. 124. 

Nain, Lab. 226. 
Napan Valley 61. 
Narrows, The 47, 54. 
Narrows, Grand 164. 
Nashwaak 47. 
Nashwaaksis 45. 
Natashquan Point 231. 
Natural Steps, The 277. 
Necum Tench 132. 
Negro Id., N. S. 122. 
Negro town Point 15. 
Nelson, N. B. 63. 
Nepisiguit Lake 55. 
Nepisiguit River 65. 
Nerepis Hills, N.B. 41. 
Nerepis River 38. 
Netsbuctoke 225. 
Neutral Id., N. B. 34. 
New Albany, N. S. 89. 
New Bandon 66. 
New Bay 211. 
New Bonaventure 210. 
New Brunswick 13. 
Newburgh, N. B. 50. 
New Canaan 48. 
New Carlisle 240. 
Newcastle 49, 62. 
New Dublin 119. 
New Edinburgh 112. 
Newfoundland 187. 
New Glasgow, N. S. 136. 
New Wasgow, P. E. I. 178. 
New Liverpool 282. 
New London 178. 
Newman Sound 203. 
New Perlican 209. 
Newport, N. S. 92, 101. 
Newport, P. Q. 241. 
New Richmond 240. 
New Ross, N. S. 90. 
New Tusket 113. 
Niapisca Id. 231. 
Nicolet, P. Q. 308. 
Nictau Falls 89. 
Nictor Lake 55. 
Niger Sound 227. 
Nimrod, N. F. 211. 
Nipper's Harbor 205, 211. 
Noel, N. S. 105. 
North Bay 214. 
Northern Head 30. 
Northfield 129. 
North Harbor 212. 
North Joggins 73. 
North Lake 182. 
North Mt. 84. 
North Point 180. 
North River Falls 105. 
North Rustico 178. 
North Sydney 151. 



Northumberland Strait 6< 

174, 239. 
Northwest Arm 100. 
North Wiltshire 177. 
Norton, N. B. 71, 42. 
Norwest, Lab. 226. 
Notre Dame Bay 210, 205. 
Notre Dame du Lac 58. 
Nova Scotia 75. 
Nubble Id. 31. 

Oak Bay, N. B. 34. 
Oak Point 41, 61. 
Ochre Pit Cove 208. 
Offer Wadham 204. 
Okkak, Lab. 226. 
Old Barns 81. 
Old Bonaventure 210. 
Old FeroUe 219. 
Old Fort Point 158. 
Oldham Mines 82. 
Old Maid 29. 
Old Perlican 209, 201. 
Oldtown, Me. 39. 
Olomanosheebo 231. 
Onslow 80. 
Oromocto, N. B. 43. 
Oromocto Lake 38. 
Orono, Me. 39. 
Otnabog, N. B. 42. 
Ottawa, Ont. 320. 
Outarde River 250. 
Oxford, N. S. 80. 
Ovens, the 119. 

Pabineau Falls 66. 
Pabos, P. Q. 241. 
Painsec June. 72, 59. 
Paps of Matane 249. 
Paradise, N. F. 225. 
Paradise, N. S. 89. 
Parrsboro', N. S. 102. 
Partridge Id., N. B. 15. 
PartridgeId.,N. S. 102. 
Paspebiac, P. Q. 240. 
Patrick's Hole 290. 
Patten, Me. 58. 
Penguin Ids. 203. 
Penobscot River 39. 
Penobsquis, N. B. 71. 
Pentecost River 233. 
Pepiswick Lake 131. 
Perce, P. Q. 242. 
Perroquets, The 232. 
Perry, Me. 28. 
Perth, N. B. 54. 
Petitcodiac 72, 48. 
Petit de Grat 145. 
Petite Bergeronne 233. 
Petite Passage 117. 
Petit Metis 249. 
Petty Harbor 197. 
Piccadilly Mt. 71. 
Pickwaakeet 42. 



INDEX. 



329 



Pictou 137, 166. 
Pictou Id. 175. 
Pilgrims, The 252. 
Pincher's Id. 203. 
Pinnacle Id., N. S. 105. 
Pirate's CoTe 143. 
Pisarinco Cove 31. 
Placentia Bay 212. 
Plains of Abraham 280. 
Plaster Cove 143, 168. 
Pleasant Bay 183, 
Pleasant Point 27. 
Pleureuse Point 249. 
Plumweseep 71. 
Pockmouche, N. B. 62. 
Pockshaw, N. B. 66. 
Point a Beaulieu 295 
Point Aconi,C. B. 161. 

Amour, Lab. 228. 

a Pique 294. 

au Bourdo 69. 

de Monts 233, 249. 

duChene59,60. 

la Boule 305. 

Lepreau 31. 

Levi, P. Q. 282. 

Maquereau 241. 

Miscou, N. B. 64. 

Orignaux 252. 

Pleasant 40, 68, 100. 

Prim 175, 181. 

Rich, N. F. 219. 

St. Charles 316. 

St. Peter 244. 

Wolfe, N. B. 71. 
Pointe k la Garde 68. 

a la Croix 68. 

aux Trembles 306, 309. 

Mille Vaches 233. 

Roches 301. 

Rouge 299. 
Pokiok Falls 52. 
Pollett River 72. 
Pomquet Forks 139. 
Pond, Deer, N. F. 219. 

Grand, N. F. 218. 

Red Indian 211. 

Quemo-Gospen 213. 
Ponhook Lake 130, 126. 
Port Acadie, N. S. 113. 
Portage Road, N. B. 61. 
Port au Basque, N. F. 216. 

au Choix 219. 

au Persil, P. Q. 295. 

au Pique 81. 

au Port, N. F. 218. 

aux Quilles, 295. 

Daniel 241. 

Elgin, N. B. 73. 
Porter's Lake, N. S. 131. 
Port Greville, N. S. 103. 

Hastings, C. B. 143. 

Hawkesbury 143. 

Uerbert, N. S. 121. 



Port Hill, P. E. I. 179. 

Hood, C. B. 169. 

Joli, N. S. 121. 

Latour, N. S. 122. 

Medway, N. S. 120. 

Mouton 120. 

Mulgrave 143, 140. 
Port Neuf, Lab. 233. 
Portneuf, P. Q. 306. 
Porto Nuevo Id. 149. 
Portugal Cove 195, 206. 
Port St. Augustine 230. 
Port Williams 89, 91. 
Powder-Horn Hills 212. 
Pownal, P. E. I. 177. 
Presque Isle, Me. 54. 
Preston, N. S. 131. 
Preston's Beach 61. 
Prim Point 83. 
Prince Edward Id. 172. 
Princetown, P. E. 1. 178. 
Prince William 52. 
Prince William St. 89. 
Pubnico, N. S. 125. 
Pugwash 81, 80. 

Quaco, N. B. 71. 
Quebec, P. Q. 255. 

Anglican Cathedral 260. 

Basilica 261. 

Cathedral 261. 

Citadel 266. 

Custom House 271. 

Durham Terrace 259. 

Esplanade 268. - 

Gen. Hospital 27a# 

Gov.'s Garden 269. 

Grand Battery 269. 

Hotel Dieu 266. 

Jesuits' College 261. 

Laval University 263. 

Lower Town 271. 

Marine IIosp. 272. 

Market Sq. 260. 

Martello Towers 270. 

Montcalm Ward 270. 

Morrin College 265. 

N. D. des Yictoires 271. 

Parliament Building 263. 

Post-Office 264. 

St. John Ward 269. 

St. Roch 272. 

Seminary 262. 

Ursuline Conv. 264. 
Quemo Gospen 213. 
Quiddy Viddy 195. 
Quirpon,N. F. 220. 
Quispamsis, N. B. 70. 
Quoddy Head 26. 
Ragged Harbor 201. 
I Ragged Ids. 212. 
jRamea Ids. N. F. 215. 
iRam Id. 121. 
'Ram's Ids. N. F. 212. 



Random Sound 209. 
Rankin's Mills, N. B. 37. 
Rapide de Femme 56. 
Rapids, Lachine 319. 

Meductic 52. 

St. Anne 320. 

St. Mary's 319. 

Terres Rompues 300. 
Red Bay 228. 
Red CMffs, Lab. 220, 228. 
Red Head, N. F. 200. 
Red Hills, N. F. 199. 
Red-Indian Pond 210, 211. 
Red Ids. 147. 
Red Point 182. 
Red Rapids, N. B. 54. 
Remsheg, N. S. 81. 
Renewse, N. F. 198. 
Renfrew, N. S. 82. 
Repentigny, P. Q. 308. 
Restigouche River 69, 56. 
Richibucto, N. B. 60. 
Richmond Bay 178. 
Rigolette, Lab. 226. 
Rimouski, P. Q. 250. 
River, Avon, N. S. 91. 

Charlo, N. B. 66. 

Denys, C. B. 165. 

Gold, N. S. 128. 

Gouflre, P. Q. 292. 

Hillsborough 180. 

Humber, N. F. 219. 

John, N. S. 81. 

LaHave, N. S. 128. 

Louison, N. B. 66. 

Magaguadavic 32. 

Manitou, Lab. 232. 

Miramichi 61. 

Mistassini 301. 

Moisic, Lab. 232. 

Nepisiguit 65, 55. 

of Castors 219. 

Exploits 210. 

Ottawa 320. 

Petitcodiac 72. 

Philip, N. S. 80. 

Restigouche 69, 56. 

Saguenay 297, 233. 

St. Anne, P. Q. 286. 

St. Croix, N. B. 33. 

St. John, Lab 232. 

St. Lawrence 246, 305- 

St. Marguerite 305. 

St. Mary's, N. S. 133. 

St. Maurice 307. 
Riversdale, N. S 136. 
River, Tobique 54. 
Riviere a I'Ours 301. 

a Mars 302. 

du Loup 295, 252. 

Maheu 290. 

Quelle, P. Q. 2,52. 
Robbinston, Me. 33. 
Roberval, P. Q. 301. 



330 



Robinson's Point 48. 
Rochette, N. B. 66. 
Rock, Perce 242. 
Rockland, N. B. 73. 
Rockport 73. 
Rocky Bay, N. F. 210. 
Rocky Lake, N. S. 82. 
Rollo Bay, P. E. 1. 182. 
Rosades, The 251. 
Rose Bay 119. 
Rose Blanche 215. 
Rossignol Lake 130. 
Rossway, N. S. 116. 
Rothesay 22, 70. 
Rough Waters 66. 
Round Harbor 211. 
Route des Pretres 290. 
Royalty June. 177. 
Rustico, P. E. I. 178. 

Sabbattee Lake 127. 

Sabimm Lake 124. 

Sable Id. 134. 

Sackville, N. B. 73. 

Sacred Ids. 220. 

Saddle Id. 227. 

Sagona Id. 214. 

Saguenay River 297. 

St. Agnes, P. Q. 295. 

St. Albans, P. Q. 281. 

St. Alexis 69, 302. 

St. Alphonse, P. Q. 302. 

St. Andrews, N. B. 33, 28. 

St. Andrews, P. E. I. 181. 

St. Andrew's Channel 165. 

St. Angel de Laval 307. 

St. Anne (Bout del'L) 320. 

St. Anne de Beaupr6 285. 

St. Anne de la Perade 307. 

St. Anne de la Pocatiere 253. 

St. Anne des Monts 249. 

St. Anne du Nord 285. 

St. Anne du Saguenay 300. 

St. Anne Mts. 287. 

St. Anne's Bay 158. 

St. Anthony 221. 

St. Antoine de Tilly 306. 

St. Antoine Perou 292. 

St. Arsene 296. 

St. Augustia 306. 

St. Barbe 219. 

St. Basil 57. 

St. Bruno 319. 

St. Cecile du Bic 251. 

St. Charles Harbor 227. 

St. Colomb 280. 

St. Croix, P. Q. 306. 

St. Croix Cove 89. 

St. Croix River 33. 

St. Cuthbert 308. 

St. David's 178. 

St. Denis, P. Q. 252. 

St. Donat, P. Q. 250. 

St. Eleanors, P. E. 1. 179. 



INDEX. 



St. Elizabeth, P. Q. 308. 

St. Esprit, C. B. 148. 

St. Etienne Bay 305. 

St. Fabien, P. Q. 251. 

St. Famine, P. Q. 289. 

St. Feliciti, P. Q. 249. 

St. Felix de Valois 308. 

St. Fereol, P. Q. 287. 

St. Fidele, P. Q. 295. 

St. Flavie 70, 250. 

St. Foy, P. Q. 281. 

St. Francis 58. 

St. Francis Harbor 225. 

St. Francois 290. 

St. Francois du Lac 308. 

St. FrauQois Xavier 292. 

St. Fulgence 301. 

St. Genevieve 219. 

St. George, N. B. 32. 

St. George's Bay 217. 

St. George's Channel 165. 

St. Germain de Rim. 250. 

St. Iren^e 294. 

St. Ignace, Cap 253. 

St. Jaques 214. 

St. Jean Baptiste 318. 

St. Jean Deschaillons 307. 

St. Jean d'Orleans 290. 

St. Jean-Port-Joli 253. 

St. Jerome, P. Q. 301. 

St. Joachim 287. 

St. John, N. B. 15. 

Cathedral 18. 

Custom-House 17. 

Gen. Pub. Hosp. 18. 

Harbor 15. 

King Square 16. 

Post-Offlce 17. 

St. Paul's 19. 

Trinity 17. 

Valley, The 19. 

AViggins Asyl. 17. 

Y. M. C. A. 16. 
St. John, Lake 301. 
St. John's, N. F. 189. 

Anglican Cathedral 191. 

Colonial Building 192. 

Gov't House 192. 

Harbor 189. 

Narrows 191. 

Roman-Catholic Cathe- 
dral 192. 

Signal Hill 193. 
St. John's Bay 304. 
St. Jones Harbor 209. 
St. Joseph, N. B. 73. 
St. Joseph P. Q. 282. 
St. Laurent 290. 
St. Lawrence Bay 160. 
St. Lawrence River 246, 305 
St. Leonard, N. B. 56. 
St. Leon Springs 308. 
St. Lewis Sound 225. 
St. Louis Isle 304. 



St. Luce, P. Q. 250. 
St. Lunaire 221. 
St. Margaret River 233. 
St. Margaret's Bay 219. 
St. Margaret's Bay 126,118. 
St. Marguerite River 305. 
St. Martin, P. Q. 318. 
St. Martin's, N. B. 71. 
St. Mary's, N. B. 45. 
St. Mary's, N. F. 213. 
St. Mary's Bay, N. F. 213. 
St. Mary's Bav, N. S. 112. 
St. Mary's Bay, P. E.L 181. 
St. Maurice River 307. 
St. Matthieu 251. 
St. Michael's Bay 225. 
St. Michel 264. 
St. Modeste 296. 
St Norbert308. 
St. Octave, P. Q. 249. 
St. Onesime, P. Q. 253. 
St. Pacome, P. Q. 253. 
St. Paschal 252. 
St. Patrick's Channel 167. 
St. Paul's Bay 292. 
St. Peter's, C. B. 146. 
St. Peter's, N. B. 65. 
St. Peter's, P. E. I. 182. 
St. Peter's Bay 227. 
St. Peter's Inlet 165. 
St. Peter's Id. 174. 
St. Peter, Lake 307. 
St. Pierre 185, 214. 
St. Pierre d'Orleans 289. 
St. Pierre les Becquets 307. 
St. Placide, P. Q. 292. 
St. Roch-des-Aulnaies 253. 
St. Romuald, P. Q. 282. 
St. Rose de Lima 318. 
St. Shot's, N. F. 213. 
St. Simeon, 295. 
St. Simon 251. 
St. Stephen, N. B. 35. 
St. Sulpice, P. Q. 308. 
St. Therese 818. 
St. Thomas, P. Q. 253. 
St. Tite des Caps 287. 
St. Urbain 292. 
St. Valier, P. Q. 254. 
St. Vincent de Paul, 318. 
Salisbury, N. B. 72. 
Salmon Cove 201. 
Salmonier, N. F. 213. 
Salmon River 49, 71, 114. 
SaltMt.,C. B. 167. 
Salutation Point 174. 
Sambro Id. 117. 
Sandwich Bay 225. 
Sandwich Head 227. 
Sandybeach 244. 
Sandy Cove 116, 112. 
Sandy Point 217. 
Sault a la Puce 284. 
Sault au Cochon 291. 



t 

I 



INDEX. 



331 



Sault au Recollet 318. 
Sault de Mouton 233. 
Scatari, C. B. 150. 
Schoodic Lakes 35. 
Scotchtown, N. B. 48. 
Scotch Village 93. 
Sculpin Point 214. 
Seal Cove, N. B. 29. 
Seal Cove, N. F. 221. 
Seal Id. N. S. 124. 
Seal Ids. 225. 
Sea-Trout Point 175. 
Sea-Wolf Id. 169. 
Seeley's Mills 71. 
Segum-Sega Lakes 130. 
Seldom-come-by 210. 
Seven Ids., Lab. 232. 
Shag Id. 230. 
Shawanegan Falls 307. 
Shecatica Bay 230. 
Shediac 59, 60, 174. 
Sheet Harbor 132. 
Shelburne, N. S. 121. 
Shepody Bay 73. 
Shepodv Mt. 72. 
Sherbrooke 133, 132. 
Sherbrooke Lake 90. 
Shinimicas, N. S. 78. 
Ship Harbor 132. 
Shippigan Id. 63. 
Shoe Cove 211, 221. 
Shubenacadie 82. 
Sillery, P. Q. 280. 
SUver Falls, N. B. 22. 
Sir Charles Hamilton's 

Sound, N. F. 203. 
Sissiboo Falls 112. 
Skye Glen 168. 
Smith's Sound 209. 
Smoky, Cape 159. 
Sorel, P. Q. 308. 
Souris, P. E. I. 182. 
South Bay, N. B. 40. 
South Mt. 84. 
South Oromocto Lake 38. 
Southport, P. E. I. 177. 
South Quebec 282. 
S. W. Head 29. 
S. W. Miramichi 62. 
Spaniard's Bay 207. 
Spear Harbor 225. 
Spectacle Id. 120. 
Spencer's Id. 103, 104, 106. 
Spencer Wood 280. 
Spiller Rocks 202. 
Split, Cape 104. 
Split Rock, 31. 
Spotted Id. 225. 
Spout, The 197. 
Spragg's Point 42. 
Sprague's Cove 29. 
Springfield, N. B. 42. 
Springfield, N. S. 89. 
Springhill, N. B. 51. 



Spring Hill, N. S. 80. 

Spruce Id. 31 

Spruce Lake 24. 

Spry Bay 132. 

Stanley, N.B. 50. 

Statue Point 303. 

Steep Creek 143. 

Stellarton, N. S. 136. 

Stewiacke 82. 

Stone Pillar 253. 

Stormont, N. S. 133. 

Strait of Barra 164. 

Strait of Belle Isle 220, 227. 

Strait of Canso 142. 

Strait of Northumberland 

60, 174, 239. 
Strait Shore, N. F. 196. 
Sugar Id 50, 51. 
Sugar-Loaf, N. B. 68. 
Sugar-Loaf, N. F. 200, 217. 
Summerside, P E. I. 178. 
Sunacadie, C. B. 164. 
Sussex Vale, N. B. 71. 
Swallow-Tail Head 29. 
Sydney, C. B. 150. 
Sydney Mines 152. 

Tableau, Le 303. 
Table Head 227. 
Table Roulante 243. 
Tabusintac 61, 62. 
Tadousac, P. Q 299. 
Tangier, N. S. 132 
Tannery West 319. 
Tantramar Marsh 79, 74. 
Tatamagouche, N. S. 81. 
Tea Hill, P. E. I. 177. 
Tedish, N. B. 59 
Temiscouata Lake 58, 295. 
Temple Bay, Lab. 227. 
Tennant's Cove 42. 
Thoroughfare, The 48. 
Three Rivers 307. 
Three Tides, P. E. I. 174. 
Three Towers, N. F. 211. 
Thrumcap Shoal 93. 
Tickle Cove 203. 
Tidnish, N. S. 78. 
Tignish, P. E. I. 180. 
Tilt Cove 205, 211. 
Tilton Harbor 210. 
Toad Cove 197. 
Tobique, N. B. 54. 
Tolt Peak 217. 
Tomkedgwick River 69. 
Topsail, N. P. 206. 
Torbay, N. F. 195, 200. 
Tor Bay, N. S. 134. 
Tormentine, Cape 174. 
Torrent Point 227. 
Tracadie, N. B. 62. 
Tracadie, N. S. 139. 
Tracadie, P. E. I. 181. 
Tracadiegash 67, 239. 



Tracy's Lake 71. 
Tracy's Mills, 38. 
Traverse, Cape 174. 
Tremont, N. S. 89. 
Trepassey, N. F. 213. 
Trinity, N. F. 201. 
Trinity Bay 208, 201. 
Trinity, Cape 303. 
Trinity Cove 160. 
Trois Pistoles 251. 
Trois Rivieres 307. 
Trou St. Patrice 290. 
Trouty, N. F. 210. 
Truro, N. S. 81. 
Trvon, P. E. I. 174. 
Tusket Ids. 125, 115. 
Tusket Lakes 115. 
Tweednogie, C. B. 148. 
Tweedside, N.B.38. 
Twillingate, N. F. 205. 

Ungava Bay 226. 
Upper Caraquette 66. 
Upper Gagetown 43. 
Upper Musquodoboit 82. 
Upper Queensbury 52. 
Upsalquitch River 69. 
Utopia, Lake 32. 

VanBuren,Me. 56. 
Vanceboro, Me. 38. 
Varennes, P. Q. 308. 
Veazie, Me. 39. 
Venison Id. 225. 
Vernon River 181. 
Victoria 53. 
Victoria Line 168. 
Victoria Mines 152. 
Virginia Water 195. 

Wallace Valley 80. 
Walrus Id. 231. 
Walton 106, 93. 
Wapitagun Har. 230. 
Wapskehegan River 54. 
Ward's Harbor 211. 
Washademoak Lake 47. 
Wash-shecootai 231 
Watagheistic Sound 230 
Watchabaktchkt 164. 
Watt June. 37. 
Waverley Mines 82. 
Wa-weig, N. B. 36. 
Welchpool, N. B. 25. 
Wellington 179. 
Welsford, N. B. 38. 
Wentworth, N. S. 80. 
West Bay, C. B. 165. 
Westchester, N. S. 80. 
Westfield, N. B. 41. 
West Isles 31. 
West Point 179. 
West Port, N. S. 117. 
West River 225. 



332 



INDEX. 



Weymouth, N. S. 112. 
Whale Cove 29. 
White Bay 221. 
White Haven 134. 
White Horse 81. 
White's Cove 49. 
Whycocomagh, C. B. 167. 
Wickham, 42, 47. 
Wicklow, N. B. 53. 
Wiggins Cove 49. 



William Henry 308. 
Wilmot Springs 89. 
Wilson's Beach 25. 
Wilton Grove 210. 
Windsor, N.S. 91,101. 
Windsor June. 82, 93. 
Windsor Lake 195. 
Wine Harbor 133. 
Wiseman's Cove 221. 



Witless Bay, N. F. 197. 
Wolf River 231. 
Wolfville 107, 91. 
Wolves, The 25,31. 
Wood Pillar 253. 
Woodstock 50, 37. 

Yarmouth, N. S. 114, 125. 
York River 174. 



Index to Historical and Biographical Allusions. 



Acadian Exiles 108, 113, 131 
Annapolis Royal, N. S. 86. 
Antico.sti, P. Q. 234. 
Aukpaque, N. B. 46. 
Avalon, N. F. 198. 
Bathurst, N. B. 65. 
Bay Bulls, N. F. 197. 
Bay of Chaleur 65. 
Beaubassin and Beausejour 

78. 
Bic Island, P. Q. 250. 
Bras d'Or, C. B. 165. 
Br Jbeuf, Pere 266. 
Brest, Lab. 230. 
Campobello Id., N. B. 26. 
Canada, Lower 235. 
Canada, the name of 245. 
Canso, N. S. 144. 
Cape Breton 149. 
Cape Breton (old Province) 

141. 
Cape Broyle, N. F. 197. 
Cape Chatte, P. Q. 249. 
Cape Despair, P. Q. 241. 
Cape d'Or, N. S. 104. 
Cape Sable, N. S. 123. 
Cape Sambro, N. S. 118. 
Caraquette, N. B. 66. 
Carbonear, N. F. 208. 
Cartier's Voyages 193, 204, 

245, 272, 293. 
Caughnawaga, P. Q. 319. 
Champlain, Samuel de 273. 
Charlottetown, P. B. 1. 176. 
Chateau, Lab. 227. 
Chateau Bigot, P. Q. 280. 
Chdteau Richer, P. Q. 284. 
Chaumonot, Pere 279. 
Chezzetcook, N. S. 131. 
Chicoutimi, P. Q. 300. 
Clare Settlements, N. S. 113. 
Conception Bay, N. F. 206. 
Constitution and Guerriere 

200. 
Cote de Beaupre 276. 
D'Aulnay and La Tour 19, 

87, 122. 



D'Avaugour, Baron 246. 

Dawson, Dr. J. W. 138. 

Dead Islands, N.F. 216. 

Eastport, Me. 27. 

Esquimaux, the 226. 

Ferryland, N. F. 198. 

Fort La Heve, N. S. 119. 

Forts Lawrence and Cum- 
berland 78. 

FortMeductic, N. B. 52. 

Fredericton, N. B. 46. 

Frontenac, Count de 262, 
273. 

6asp6, P. Q. 244. 

Gilbert, Sir Humphrey 135, 
193. 

Glooscap 19, 41, 102, 106, 
120, 137, 144. 

Goat Island, N. S. 85. 

Grand Banks 199. 

Grand Lake, N. B. 48. 

Grand Manan 28. 

Grand Pre, N. S. 108. 

Guysborough, N. S. 134. 

Haliburton, Judge 92. 

Halifax, N. S. 99. 

Huron Indians 279, 289. 

Indian Lorette 279. 

Ingonish, C. B. 159. 

Isle aux Coudres 293. 

Isle of Orleans 288. 

Jemseg, N. B. 42. 

Jesuits, the 261, 266, 275, 
281. 

King's College 92. 

Labrador 222, 223. 

Lachine, P. Q. 319. 

Lake St. John, P. Q. 301. 

Lake Utopia, N. B. 32. 

Liverpool, N. S. 120. 

Lord's-Day Gale 170, 153, 
185. 

Louisbourg, C. B. 154, 149. 

Lunenburg, N. S. 118. 

Madawaska, N. B. 57. 

Magdalen Islands 184. 

iMahoneBay, N.S. 128. 



Maugerville, N. B. 43. 
Micmac lndiang^68, 147,163, 

244. 
Mingan Ids., Lab. 231. 
Miramichi District 63. 
Miscould., N. B. 64. 
Montreal, P. Q. 317- 
Moravian Missions 226. 
Murray Bay, P. Q. 295. 
New Brunswick 14. 
Newfoundland 187, 201, 202, 

204, 222. 
Norsemen, the 123, 204, 245. 
Nova Scotia 76. 
Oromocto, N B. 43. 
Passamoquoddy Bay 27. 
Penobscot Indians 39. 
Perce, P. Q. 243. 
Pictou, N. S. 137. 
Placentia, N. F. 212. 
Pleasant Point, Mc. 27. 
Port Latour, N. S. 122. 
Port Mouton, N. S. 121. 
Prince Edward Island 172. 
Quebec 272. 
Red Indians 210, 218. 
Restigouche 69. 
Richibucto Indians 60. 
Riviere du Loup 296. 
Riviere Quelle 252. 
Robervals, the 301. 
Robin & Co. 240. 
Sable Island 135. 
Saguenay River 298. 
St. Anne de Beaupr^ 285. 
St. Anne's Bay, C. B 158. 
St. Augustin, P. Q. 306. 
St. Croix Island 34. 
St. Joachim, P. Q. 287. 
St. John, N. B. 19. 
St. John River 40. 
St. John's, N. F. 193. 
St. Mary's Bay 112. 
St. Paul's Bay 292. 
St. Paul's Island 160. 
St. Peter's, C. B.146. 
St. Pierre, Miq. 186 



INDEX. 



333 



Scottish Migration 164. 
Sillery, P. Q. 281. 
Sorel, P. Q. 308. 
Strait of Belle Isle ^0. 
Sydney, C. B. 151. 
Sydney Coal-Mines 153. 



Tadousac, P. Q. 298, 299. 
Tilbury, Wreck of the 148. 
Trepassey, N. F. 213. 
Trois Pistoles, P. Q. 251. 
Truro, N. S. 81. 
Ursulines of Quebec 265. 



Walker's Expedition 233, 

241. 
Wallis, Admiral 100. 
Williams, Gen. 100. 
Windsor, N S. 92. 
Yarmouth, N. S. 114. . 



Index to Quotations. 



Alexander, Sir J. E. 38, 58. 

Baillie, T. 48. 

Ballautyne, R. M. 292. 

Beecher, Henry Ward 258. 

Boucher 292. 

Bouchette, R. 247, 278. 

Bougainville 238. 

Bonnycastle, Sir R. 67, 195, 218. 

Brown, Richard 141, 154, 155, 157, 159, 

166, 233. 
Buies, Arthur 240, 243, 244, 248, 250. 
Cartier, Jacques 204, 246, 288, 298. 
Champlain 124, 273, 295. 
Charlevoix 30, 77, 150, 158, 184, 204, 233, 

238, 247, 289, 293, 299, 300. 
Cozzens, F. S. 92, 96, 100, 111, 131, 140, 

142, 147, 166. 
Cremazie, 0. 247. 
Dawson, J. W. 102, 142. 
De Costa, B. F. 28, 29, 30. 
Be Mille, Prof 105. 
Dilke, Sir Charles 258, 259. 
Diifferin, Lord 237. 
Ferland, Abb6 232, 248, 283. 
Fiset, L. J. C. 247. 
Gesner, Dr. A. B. 32, 36, 43, 56. 
Gilpin, Dr. 134. 
Gordon, Hon. Arthur 51, 52, 53, 55, 56, 

62, 67. 
Grey 247. 

Haliburton, Judge 90, 91, 109, 111, 113. 
Hallock, Charles 67, 78, 103, 126, 127,128, 

129, 130, 169, 170, 225, 227, 240, 301. 
ITamilton, 88. 
Hardy, Capt. 129, 130, 131. 
Hawkins's Quebec 256, 259, 261, 272. 
Heriot, George 279, 284. 
Hind, Prof 232,233. 
Ho wells, W. D. 260, 268, 276, 278, 280, 

281, 302, 303. 
Imray's Sailing Dwc«/o77573, 158,169,248. 
Johnston, Prof. J. F. W. 23, 31, 45, 57, 

71,117. 
Jukes, Prof. J. B. 189, 195, 196, 216, 218. 
Kalm 305. 
Kirke, Henry 245. 
La Hontan, Baron 87, 212, 305. 
Lalemant, Pere 249. 



Lanman, Charles 68. 

Le Moine, J. M. 258, 264, 280, 294. 

Lescarbot, M. 34, 85, 86, 201. 

London Ti7nes 257, 298, 304. 

Longfellow, H. W. 109, 110, 111, 113. 

Lowell, R. T. S. 187. 

McCrea, Lt.-Col. 193, 195, 197. 

Marmier, X. 257. 

Marshall, C. 278, 286. 

Martin, M. 154. 

M'Gregor, John 19, 42, 117, 128, 166. 

Moore, Tom 184. 320. 

Moorson, Capt. 116, 118, 122. 

Murdoch, B. 75, 109, 122, 155. 156. 

Noble, Rev. L. L. 80, 91, 103, 141, 160, 

189, 193, 196, 204, 219, 221, 223, 224, 

228. 
Novus Orbisl2b. 
Parkman, Francis 237, 245, 262, 266, 276, 

279, 285, 288. 
Perley, M. H. 182. 
Rameau. M. 288, 277. 
Roosevelt, R. B. 66. 
Routhier, A. B. 252. 
Sagas of Iceland 128, 204. 
Sand, Maurice 186,256. 
Scott, G. C. 8, 36, 200. 
Shirley, Gov. 274. 
Silliman, Prof 238, 257, 267, 277. 
Stedman, R. H. 170.. 
Strauss, 231 

Sutherland, Rev. George 178, 180. 
Tach(5 251 299. 
Taylor's Canadian Handbook 242, 248, 

251, 282, 319. 
Taylor, Bayard 277, 291, 292, 293, 297, 

304. 
Thoreau, H. D. 237, 238, 246, 257, 267, 

276, 277, 283, 284, 287, 309, 312. 
Trudelle 292. 
Voltaire 274. 

Warburton, Eliot 190, 195, 234, 256. 
Warner, Charles Dudlev, 20, 25, 26, 84, 

86, 91, 92, 95, 107, 138, 140, 158, 162, 

165, 166, 167, 168, 175, 176, 179. 
Whitburne, Capt. 187. 
White, John, 278, 298, 303. 
Whittier, John G. 21, 65, 209, 224, 230. 



334 INDEX. 



Index to Railways and Steamboat Lines. 



European and North American 37. 

Grand Trunk 305. 

Intercolonial 70, 78. 

New Brunswick 49. 

New Brunswick and Canada 33. 



Pictou Branch 136. 

Prince Edward Island 177, 180, 182. 

Quebec and Gosford 255. 

Shediac Branch 59. 

Windsor and Annapolis 83. 



Basin of Minas 101. 
Bras d'Or, 161. 
Conception Bay (N. F.) 206. 
Eastport 25. 
Grand Lake 48. 
Halifax to Sydney 148. 
Labrador 224. 
Magdalen Islands 183. 
Moisic River (Labrador) 229. 
Newfoundland 188, 148. 
Northern Coastal (N. F.) 200. 
North Shore (N. B.)60. 



Passamaquoddy Bay 25, 30. 
Prince Edward Island 174, 175. 
Quebec and Gulf Ports 238, 60. 
Quebec to Cacouna 291. 
RicheUeu(St. Lawrence) 305. 
Saguenay River 291, 297. 
St. John River 39, 51, 53. 
St. Pierre (Miq.) 185. 
Union (St. Lawrence) 305. 
Washademoak Lake 47. 
Western Outports 213. 
Yarmouth and Hahfax 117. 



Authorities Consulted in tlie Preparation of this Volume. 

The Editor acknowledges his obligations to the officers of the Boston Athenaeum, 
the Parliament Library at Halifax, the Colonial Library at Charlottetown, the Me- 
chanics' Institute at St. John, and the libraries of Parliament, of the Laval Uni- 
versity, of the Insiitut Canadien, and of the Literary and Historical Society, of 
Quebec. 

New Brunswick, with Notes for Emigrants ; by Abraham Gesner, M. D. (1847.) 

Geology of New Brunswick, etc. ; by Dr. Gesner. 

New Brunswick and its Scenery ; by Jno. R. Hamilton. (St. .John, 1874.) 

Account of New Brunswick ; by Thomas Baillie. (London, 1832.) 

Handbook for Emigrants to New Brunswick; by M. H. Perley. (St. John, 1854.) 

Mount Desert ; by B. F. De Costa. (New York.) 

History of New Brunswick ; by Coonej^ 

Nouveau Brunswick ; by E. Regnault. (Paris. ) 

History of Maine ; by James Sullivan, LL. D. (1795.) 
History of Maine ; by W. D. Williamson. (2 vols. ; 1839.) 
Transactions of the Maine Historical Society. 

Letters from Nova Scotia ; by Captain Moorson. (London, 1830.) 

Travels in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick ; by J. S. Buckingham, M. P. 

Forest Life in Acadie; by Capt. Campbell Hardy. (London.) 

The Fishing Tourist ; by Charles Hallock. (New York, 1873.) 

Acadia ; or A Month among the Bluenoses : by Frederick S. Co2Bens. (New York, 

1859.) 
The Neutral French ; a Story of Nova Scotia. 
The Lily and the Cross ; by Prof. De Mille. 
The Boys of Grand Pre School : by Prof. De Mille. 
The Clock-Maker ; by Judge T.' C. Haliburton. 
The Old Judge ; by Judge T. C. Hahburton. 

The Pre-Columbian Discovery of America ; by B. F. De Costa. (New York.) 
Acadian Geology ; by J. W. Dawson, LL. D., F. R. S. (Halifax, 1855.) 
On the Mineralogy and Geology of Nova Scotia ; by Dr. A. Gesner. 
An Historical and Statistical Account of Nova Scotia ; by T. C. Haliburton, D. C. L., 

M. P. (2 vols. ; Hahfax, 1829.) 
History of Nova Scotia, or Acadie; by Beamish Murdoch, Q. C. (3 vols. ; Halifax, 

1865.) 
A General Description of Nova Scotia. (Halifax, 1823.) 
Account of the Present State of Nova Scotia. (Edinburgh, 1786.) 



INDEX, 335 

A History of the Island of Cape Breton ; by Richard Brown, F. G. S., F. R. G. S. 

(London, 1869.) 
Importance and Advantages of Cape Breton ; by Wm. Bollan. (London, 1746.) 
Letters on Cape Breton ; by Thomas Pichon. (London, 1760.) 
Baddeck, and that Sort of Thing ; by Charles Dudley Warner. (Boston, 1874.) 

Prince Edward Island ; by Rev. George Sutherland. (Charlottetown, 1861.) 
Progress and Prospects of Prince Edward Island ; by C- B. Bagster. (Charlottetown, 

1861.) 
Travels in Prince Edward Island ; by Walter Johnstone. (Edinburgh, 1824.) 

A Concise History of Newfoundland ; by F. R. Page. (London, 1860.) 
History of the Government of Newfoundland ; by Chief Justice John Reeve. (Lon- 
don, 1793.) 
Catechism of the History of Newfoundland ; by W. C. St. John. (Boston, 1855.) 
Pedley's History of Newfoundland. 
Anspach's History of Newfoundland. 

Newfoundland in 1842 ; by Sir R. H. Bonnycastle. (2 vols. ; London, 1842.) 
Voyage of H. M. S. Rosamond; by Lieut. Chappell, R. N. (London, 1818.) 
Lost amid the Fogs ; by Lieut.-Col. McCrea, Royal Artillery. (London, 1869.) 
The New Priest of Conception Bay ; by R. T. S. Lowell. (Boston, 1838. ) 
Excursions in and about Newfoundland by Prof. J. B. Jukes. (2 vols. ; London, 

1842.) 
Geological Survey of Newfoundland for 1873 ; by Alex. Murray, F. G. S. (St. John's, 

After Icebergs with a Painter ; by Rev. L. L. Noble. (New York, 1860.) 

A Voyage to Labrador ; by L'Abbe Ferland. (Quebec.) 

Notes on the Coast of Labrador ; by Robertson. (Quebec.) 

Explorations in the Interior of the Labrador Peninsula ; by Prof. H. Y. Hind, F. R. 

G. S. (2 vols. ; London, 1863.) 
Sixteen Years' Residence on the Coast of Labrador ; by George Cartwright. (3 vols. : 

Newark, 1792.) 
A Summer Cruise to Labrador ; by Charles Hallock. In Harper's Magazine, VoL 

xxn. 

History and General Description of New France ; by Father P. F. X. Charlevoix. (6 
vols. ; in Shea's translation ; New York, 1872.) 

Histoire de la Nouvelle France ; by Marc Lescarbot. (1609 ; Paris, 1866 ; 3 vols.) 

Cours d'Histoire du Canada ; by L'Abb6 Ferland. 

Histoire de la Colonie Franoaise en Canada ; by M. Faillon. (3 vols. ; Ville-Marie [Mon- 
treal], 1865-6). 

History of Canada; by F. X. Gameau. (Bell's translation ; Montreal, 1866.) 

History of Canada ; by John MacMullen. (Brockville, 1868.) 

NoTus Orbis ; by Johannes de Laet. (Leyden, 1633.) 

Les Relations des Jesuits. 

Lower Canada ; by Joseph Bouchette. (London, 1815.) 

British Dominions in North America ; by Joseph Bouchette. (2 vols. ; London, 1832.) 

British America ; by John M'Gregor. (2 vols. ; London, 1832.) 

La France aux Colonies ; by M. Rameau. (Paris, 1859.) 

Le Canada au Point de Vue Economique ; by Louis Strauss. (Paris, 1867.) 

Hochelaga, or England in the New World : by Eliot Warburton. (2 vols. ; New York, 
1846.) V > . 

The Conquest of Canada; by Ehot Warburton. (2 vols. ; London, 1849.) 

The First English Conquest of Canada ; by Henry Kirke. (London, 1871.) 

The Pioneers of France in the New World ; by Francis Parkman. (Boston, 1865.) 

The Jesuits of North America ; by Francis Parkman. 

The Old Regime in Canada ; by Francis Parkman. (Boston, 1874.) 

Histoire du Canada; by Gabriel Sagard. (4 vols. ; Paris, 1866.) 

Sketches of Celebrated Canadians ; by Henry J. Morgan. (Montreal, 1865.) ' 

Hawkins's New Picture of Quebec. (Quebec, 1834.) 

Reminiscences of Quebec. (Quebec, 1858.) 

Decouverte du Tombeau de Champlain ; by Laverdiere and Casgrain. (Quebec, 1866.) 

Maple Leaves ; by J. M. Le Moiue. (Quebec.) 



336 INDEX. 

Letters sur I'Amerique ; by X. Marmier. (Paris.) 

Account of a Journey between Hartford and Quebec ; by Prof. B. Silliman. (1820.) 

Taylor's Canadian Handbook. (Montreal.) 

English America ; by S. P. Day. (2 vols ; London, 1864.) 

Three Years in Canada ; by John MacTaggart. (2 vols. ; London, 1829.) 

Western Wanderings ; by W. H. G. Kingston. (2 vols. ; London, 1856.) 

Sketches of Lower Canada ; by Joseph Sanson. (New York, 1817.) 

The Canadian Dominion ; by Charles Marshall. (London, 1871.) 

Five Years' Residence in the Canadas ; by E. A. Talbot. (2 vols. ; London, 1824.) 

Sketches from America ; by John White. (London, 1870.) 

Travels through the Canadas ; by George Heriot. (London, 1807.) 

British Possessions ; by M. Smith. (Baltimore, 1814.) 

Adventures in the Wilds of America ; by Charles Lanman. (2 vols. ; Philadelphia, 

1856.) 
Pine-Forests ; by Lieut.-Col. Sleigh. (London, 1853.) 
The travels of Hall, Lyell, Trollope, Dickens, Johnston, etc. 
Bref Recitet Succincte Narration de la Navigation faite en MDXXXV. et MDXXXVI. 

par le Capitaine Jacques Cartier. (Paris, 1863.) 
The Principal Navigations, Voyages, etc., of the English Nation ; by Richard Hak- 

luyt. (1589-1600.) 
Les Voyages i la Nouvelle France, etc. ; by Samuel de Champlain. (1632 ; Paris, 

1830.) 
Relation du Voyage au Port Royal ; by M. Diereville. (Amsterdam, 1710.) 
Nouveaux Voyages, etc. ; by the Baron La Hontan. (1703 ; London, 1735 ) 
Relation Originale du Voyage de Jacques Cartier. (Paris, 1867.) 
Memoires, Relations, et Voyages de Decouverte au Canada. (Quebec, 1838.) 
Voyage to Canada ; by Father Charlevoix. (London, 1763. ) 
Six Mille Lieues k Toute Vapeur ; by Maurice Sand. (Paris.) 
Greater Britain ; by Sir Charles Dilke. 
The Hudson's Bay Company ; by R. M. Ballantyne. 
Imray's Sailing Directions. (London ) 

Journal of a Voyage to the Coast of Gaspe ; by L'Abbe Ferland. (Quebec.) 
The Lowes St. Lawrence ; by Dr. W. J. Anderson. (Quebec, 1872.) 
Le Chercheur de Tresors ; by Ph. Aubert de Gasp6 fils. (Quebec, 1863.) 
Chroniques Humeurs et Caprices ; by Arthur Buies. (Quebec, 1873.) 
Les Anciens Canadiens ; by Philippe Aubert de Gaspe. (Quebec, 1864.) 
L'Album du Touriste ; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec, 1872.) 
The Blockade of Quebec ; by Dr. W. J. Anderson. (Quebec, 1872.) 
Journal of the Siege of Quebec ; by Gen. James Murray. (Quebec, 1871 ) 
The Expedition against Quebec ; by " A Volunteer." (Quebec, 1872 ) 
Chateau Bigot ; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec, 1874.) 
A Chance Acquaintance; by W. D. Howells. (Boston, 1873.) 
A Yankee in Canada ; by Henry D. Thoreau. (Boston, 1862.) 
La Litt<5rature Canadienne. (2 vols. ; Quebec, 1863-4.) 
Soirees Canadiennes. (2 vols. ; Quebec , 1861 .) 
Travels in New Brunswick; by Hon. Arthur Gordon. (In Vacation Tourists for 

1862-3, London.) 
Field and Forest Rambles ; by A. Leith Adams. (London, 1873.) 
L'Acadie, or Seven Years' Exploi-ations in British North America ; by Sir James 

E.Alexander. (2 vols. ; London, 1849.) 
Game-Fish of the North and the British Provinces ; by R. B. Roosevelt. (New 

York, 1865.) 
Fishing in American Waters ; by Genio C. Scott. (New York.) 
The American Angler's Guide; by Norris. (New York.) 

Fish and Fishing ; by H. W. Herbert (" Frank Forrester "). (New York, 1850.) 
The Fishing Tourist ; by Charles Hallock. (New York, 1873.) 
Les Muses de la Nouvelle France ; by Marc Lescarbot. (Paris, 1609.) 
Evangeline, a Tale of Acadie ; by Henry W. Longfellow. (Boston, 1847.) 
The Poetical Works of John G. Whittier. (Boston.) 
The St. Lawrence and the Saguenay ; by Charles Sangster (Kingston.) 
Essais Poetiques ; by Leon Pamphile Le May. (Quebec, 1865.) 
Mes Loisirs ; by Louis Honore Frechette. (Quebec.) 
The Poetical Works of 0. Cremazie, J. Lenoir, and L. J. C. Fiset. (Quebec.) 



I 



r 



1 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX TO ADVEETISEMENTS. 
♦ 

Page 
ALLAN LINE OF STEAMSHIPS 3d page cover 

BAEDEKER'S EUROPEAN GUIDE-BOOKS . . . facing title-page 

BOOKS OF AMERICAN TRAVEL 23 

BOOKS OF EUROPEAN TRAVEL 22 

BOSTON, HALIFAX, AND PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND STEAM- 
SHIP LINE 13 

BRADFORD AND ANTHONY (Boston) . . . . facing title-page 
BRAS D'OR STEAMBOAT 20 

CENTRAL VERMONT RAILROAD LINE 4 

CHALONER, J. (St. John) V 

COOK'S EXCURSIONS AND TOURS 8, 9 

EASTERN AND MAINE CENTRAL RAILROAD LINE 

2d page cover and page facing it 
EASTERN STEAMSHIP COMPANY (Newfoundland) .... 16 
EXPRESS LINE STEAMERS (St. John River) 5 

INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY 2, 3 

INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP CO. (Boston to St. John) . . 17 
ISLAND PARK HOTEL (Sununerside P. E. I.) 12 

LITTLE CLASSICS 24 

NORTH SHORE STEAMSHIP (New Brunswick) 5 

OSGOOD'S AMERICAN GUIDE-BOOKS 

1st page colored slip back of hook 

PORTLAND AND HALIFAX STEAMSHIP 11 

PORTLAND STEAM-PACKET CO 10 

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND STEAMSHIPS 18 

QUEBEC AND GULF PORTS STEAMSHIPS 19 

ST. LOUIS HOTEL (Quebec) facing 3d page cover 

SAUNTERER'S SERIES 21 

SIRCOM & MARSHALL (Halifax, N. S.) 7 

TRAVELERS' INSURANCE COMPANY 6 

UNION LINE STEAMERS (Bay of Fundy and St. John River) . . 15 

WARNER'S WRITINGS 12 

WINDSOR & ANNAPOLIS RAILWAY 14 



AD VERTISEMENTS. 



NTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY. 

187 5. 

Through All Rail Line 

BETWEEN 

HALIFAX & PiCTOO, N. S., 

AND 

ST. JOHN AND SHEDIAC, N. B. 



CONNECTIONS. 

AT HAL.IFAX — with steamships to and from England, Newfoundland, Ber- 
muda, and West Indies, and also with steamers for all ports on the western shore 
of Nova Scotia. 

AT AVINDSOR JUNCTION — with Windsor & Annapolis Railway, for 
Windsor and all places in the Annapolis Valley, and thence by stages to all places 
in the western portion of Nova Scotia. 

AT PICTOU LANDING — with steamers to and from Prince Edward 
Island, Cape Breton, Shediac, Miramichi, Restigouche, Gaspe, Quebec, and 
Montreal. 

AT POINT DTJCHENE CSliediac') — with steamers for Charlottetown, 
Summerside, Georgetown, P. E. I. ; Pictou, Port Ilood, Port Hawkesbury. 
With steamers of Quebec and Gulf Ports S. S. Co., for the ports on the north shore 
of New Brunswick, and Gulf of St. Lawrence, Father Point, Quebec, and Montreal. 

AT ST. JOHN — with the Consolidated European and North American Rail- 
way, for Fredericton, St. Andrews, St. Stephens, Calais, Woodstock, and Bangor. 

AT BANGOR connections are made with the Eastern and Maine Central for 
Augusta, Portland, Boston, New York, and all points in the United States; and 
also, via Danville Junction, with Grand Trunk Railway, for Quebec, Montreal, 
Ottawa, Toronto, and the West. With the International S. S. Co., for Eastport, 
Portland, and Boston. 

STAGE CONNECTIONS at New Glasgow, Londonderry, Shediac, Moncton, 
Salisbury, and Petitcodiac. 

THROUGH TICKETS sold to principal points in Canada, the United 
States, and along the Gulf of St. Lawrence. 

BAGGAGE CHECKED THROUGH. 

PULIiMAN CARS on all through trains. 

J. J. WALLACE, Auditor, 
General Passenger Agent, Moncton, N. B. 

R. LUTTRELL, 
Assistant Superintendent, Moncton, N. B. 
C. J. BRYDGES, 
Superintendent Government Railways. 



AD VERTISEMENTS. 



Time Tables. 



BOUND EAST. 


BOUND WEST. 


LEAVE. 




Through 

Night 
Express. 

Pass, and 
Freight 
Accom. 


LEAVE. 


14 




|fa^ 




A. M. 


p. M. 


A. M. 




A. M. 


p. M. 


A. M. 


St. John, 


8.00 


8.00 


10.15 


HaUfax, 
Bedford, 


8.00 


5.15 


9.45 










8.20 


5.35 


10.15 


Rothesay, 


8.23 


8.34 


10.51 


Windsor Junction, 


8.45 


5.54 


10.40 


Nauwigewauk, 


8.43 


8.55 


11.23 


WelUngton, 


9.05 


6.15 


11.15 


Hampton, arrive, 








Enfield, 


9.28 


6.36 


11.43 


" leave. 


8.56 


9.10 


11.43 


Elmsdale, 


9.34 


6.42 


11.51 


Passekeag, 


9.06 


9.20 


12.00 








P.M. 








P.M. 


Milford, 


9.47 


6.55 


12.08 


Norton, 


9.24 


9.38 


12.50 


Shubenacadie, 


9.58 


7.15 


12.45 


Apohaqui, 


9.39 


9.55 


1.14 


Stewiacke, 


10.11 


7.30 


1.05 


Sussex, 


10.00 


10.10 


1.55 


Brookfleld, 


10.35 


7.67 


1.45 


Pcnobsquis, 


10.17 


10.27 


2.20 


Truro, arrive. 


10.56 


8.20 


2.16 


Anagance, 


10.40 


10.52 


2.55 


" leave. 


11.00 


8.25 




Petitcodiac, 


10.55 


11.07 


3.17 


Debert, 


11.32 


8.55 




SaUsbury, 


11.20 


11.32 

A. M. 

12.05 


3.57 


Londonderry, 


11.46 
P. M. 
12.23 


9.08 


^ 


Moncton, arrive, 


11.53 


4.35 


Wentworth, 


9.44 


H^O 


" leave. 


12.00 


12.10 


5.00 


Greenville, 


12.38 


10.10 


III 




p. M. 






1 homson. 


12.54 


10.18 


Painsec Junction, 


12.25 


12.30 


5.45 


Oxford, 


1.04 


10.28 




Memramcook, 


12.55 


1.15 


Haj>Ti 


River Philip, 


1.10 


10.35 


Dorchester, 


1.15 


1.38 


§'1° 


Srring Hill, 


1.42 


11.02 


SackviUe, 


1.45 


2.14 


El^ 


Athol, 


1.55 


11.16 


• &» 


Aulac, 


1.54 


2.23 










Amherst, 


2.27 


2.46 


js'O p 


Maccan, 


2.05 


11.27 


a 








W^ 


Amherst, arrive. 


2.35 


11.48 




Maccan, 


2.45 


3.10 


«* 


" leave. 


2.45 


11.58 




Athol, 


2.55 
3.13 


3.22 
3.40 


(j 


Aulac, 


3.00 


A. M. 
12.11 




Spring Hill, 


fi 




River Philip, 


3.41 


4.08 


SackviUe, 


3.09 


12.20 




Oxford, 


3.47 


414 


%P'^ 


Dorchester, 


3.34 


12.-55 




Thomson, 


3.57 


4.24 


cSI 


IVIemramcook, 


3.54 


1.15 


A.M. 


Greenville, 


4.15 


4.44 




Painsec Junction, 


4.34 


1.50 


7.40 


Wentworth, 


4.30 


4.59 


Moncton, arrive, 


4.54 


2.10 


8.05 


Londonderry, 


5.00 


5.35 


SisE 


" leave. 


5.00 


2.15 


8.20 


Dcbert, 


5.13 


5.47 


fef^H 










Truro, arrive. 


5.43 


6.16 


A.M. 


Salisbury, 


5.33 


2.48 


9.30 


" leave, 


6.05 


6.30 


11.15 


Petitcodiac, 


5.59 


3.12 


10.05 


Rrookfield, 


6.29 


6.50 


11.47 


Anagance, 


6.14 


3.27 


10.45 


Stewiacke. 


6.58 


7.15 


12.23 


Penobsquis, 


6.39 


3.52 


11.20 


Shubenacadie, 


7.15 


7.28 


12.45 


Sussex, arrive. 


6.55 




11.50 


jVIilford, 
Elmsdale, 


7.26 


7.40 


1.05 








P.M. 


7.41 


7.53 


1.22 


leave. 


7.05 


4.13 


12.05 


Fnfield. 


7.47 


7.58 


1.30 


Apohaqui, 


7.17 


4.25 


12.25 


Wellington, 


8.03 


8.20 


2.00 


Norton, 


7.32 


4.40 


12.48 


Windsor Junction, 


8.28 


8.45 


2.35 


Passekeag, 


7.£0 


4.57 


1.17 










Hampton, 


8.00 


5.07 


1.33 


Bedford, 


8.43 


9.00 


2.55 


Nanwigewauk, 


8.18 


1 5.19 


1.53 










Rothesay, 


8.24 


5.40 


2.25 


Halifax, arrive. 


9.07 


9.20 


3.30 


St. John, anive. 


i'.CO 


6.C0 


3 CO 



Trains leave St. John at 8 A. m., reaching Point du Chene at 1.05 p. M. ; and at 
10.15 A. M., arriving at 6.25 p. M. 

Trains leave Point du Chene at 6.45 A. m., reaching St. John at 3 a.m.; and at 3.45 
p. M., arriving at 9 p. m. 

Trains leave Halifax at 8 A. M., reaching Pictou at 1.50 p. m. ; and at 9.45 A. M., ar- 
ri-v-ing at 7.05 p. m. 

Trains leave Pictou at 6.45 A. M., reaching Halifax at 3.30 P. M.; and at 3 p. m., ar- 
riving at 9.07 P. M. 



AD VERTISEMENTS. 



Pullman Cars and all Modern Improyements. 

OENTIAL VERMONT II. R. LINE. 

IS THE 

Shortest, Quickest, and Best Route 

BETWEEN 

BOSTON AND MONTREAL, 

QUEBEC, OTTAWA, TORONTO, 
THE ADIRONDACKS, 

Thousand Islands, ILalces Champlain, George, St. Regis, 
Mempliremagog, 



AND SARATOGA SPRINGS, 

?s, Alburgh, Sheldon, and Clare 
also, the 

GREEN AND WHITE MOUNTAINS. 



Massena Springs, Albnrgh, Sheldon, and Clarendon Springs: 
also, the 



FOR 

Rouind Ti?ip Hxcursions 

To all the above points, also the 

MARITIME PROVINCES, 

Coal and Iron Regions of Pennsylvania, 

NIAGARA FALLS, 

Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul, St. Louis, and Colorado, 

Call or send for the 

"SUMMER EXCURSIONIST," 

WHICH CONTAINS OVEK 

iooo 

DIFFERENT EXCURSIONS TO AILI. THE PRINCIPAIi 
SUMMER RESORTS. 

Free on application. Tickets and full information at all the principal ticket-offices, 

and at 

322 Washington Street, - - Boston, Mass. 

(Cor. Milk St.) 
T. EDWARD BOND, Ticket Agent. 



L. MILLIS, Gen. Sup't Traffic. S. W. CUMLIINGS, Passenger Agent. 

St. Albans, Vt. 



AD VER TISEMENTS. 



EXPRESS LINE OF STEAMERS! 

For Fredericton ! 

FAEE, $1.50. 

SAINT JCIHlff RIVISRI! 

THE MAGNIFICENT STEAMER 

" ROTHESAY " 

Will leave SAINT JOHN (Indiantown) for FREDERICTON, 

EVERY MONDAY, WEDNESDAY, AND FRIDAY, 

At 9 o'clock, A. M. 

RETURNING ALTERNATE DAYS AT SAME HOUR. 

The Beautiful Scenery on the River Saint John is admired by all Tourists ; the 
distance to Fredericton (84 miles) is quickly run, and Excursionists may now enjoy 
unsurpassed accommodations at low rates, and view, in a few hours, some of the 
GRANDEST SCENERY on one of the FINEST RIVERS IN THE WORLD. 

NORTH SHORE STEAMER! 

UNDER GOVERNMENT CONTRACT. 

The line sea- going Steamer 

"CITY OF ST. JOHTST" 

Will leaye Point Du Chene (Shediac Terminus Intercolonial Railway) immediately on 
arrival of Morning Express Train from St. John, 

EVERY THURSDAY, 

FOR 

RICHIBUCTO, CHATHAM, NEWCASTLE, B4THURST, 
DALHOUSIE, AND CAMPBELLTON. 

Returning, — Leaves Campbellton, Dalhousie, and Bathurst on MONDAYS, New- 
castle and Chatham on TUESDAYS, for Shediac. 

Passengers arrive at MIRAMICHI the same day they leave Saint 
John. 

A train will leave Point Du Chene every Tuesday evening, in order to bring 
through passengers, by the Steamer " City of St. John," to Saint John, in time to 
connect with all lines leaving Saint John on Wednesday morning. 

To the lovers of the beautiful in Nature, a trip up the North Sliore stands almost 
unrivalled. The scenery along the Bay De Chaleur and Restigouche River is espe- 
cially picturesque and grand : this, combined with, the excellent fishing to be had 
there, makes it a route particularly attractive to tourists and pleasure-seekers. 

OFFICE : 

41 Dock Sq-aare, St. Jolm, l^J". B. 
ENOCH LUNT & SONS. 



AJD VER TI SEME NTS. 



LARGEST ACCIDENT INSURANCE COMPANY 

IN THE WORLD. 



INSURE 

AGAINST 

AGCIDENTS 

IN THE 

TRAVELERS INSURANCE GO. 

OF HARTFORD, COJSTIT. 




liife amd f^aido^wsnent Insisrance of the best forms at 
Low Cash Rates. 

General Accident Policies for the year or month, writ- 
ten by Agents. 

Permits for Foreign Travel or Sea Voyage (under accident policies) 
furnished on application. 

A pply to any Agent, or write to the Company, at Hartford, Conn. 



JAS. Ci. BATTERSON, President. 

RODNEY DENNIS, Sec'y. JOHN E. MORRIS, Ass't Sec'y. 

Boston Office, 221 Wasliington Street ; Xew York Office, 207 Broadway ; Montreal 
Office, 199 St. James Street; Chicago Office, 84 La Salle Street. 



AD VERTISEMENTS. 



SIRCOM & MARSHALL, 

(Successors to DUFFUS & CO., Estal)lis]ie(i 1826) 
lEVIPORTERS OF 

Silks, Mantle Velvets, Laces, Ribbons, Shawls, 

Mantles, Hosiery, G-loves, Haberdashery, 

Flowers, &c. 

General Household Goods, Monrning Goods, 
Wedding Outfits, &c. 



Ne¥No.l55GEANVILLE STREET, Old No. 2, 

VISITORS TO ST. JOHN, N. B., 

IN WANT OF DEUGS, ANILINE AND OTHER DYES, 

Fancy Brushes, Soaps, Perfumes, 

AND ALL OTHER GOODS IN THE LINE, 

WILL Fnn) A FIEST-QUALITY ASSOETMENT AT THE 
STORE OF 

J. GHAIaONSR^ 

Oor. King and Q-ermain Streets. 



Vegetable and Flower Seeds in Season. Orders promptly for- 
warded. Prescriptions and popular Recipes prepared. 



AB YEB TI SEME NTS. 



COOK'S 

EXCURSIONS, TOUeS, AND GENERAL TRAVELUNC 

ARRANGEMENTS. 



COOK, SON, & JENKINS, - - 261 Broadway, New York. 
THOMAS COOK & SON, Fleet Street, London, 

PIONEERS, INAUGURATORS, and PROMOTERS of the principal System* ©f 
Tours established in Great Britain and Ireland and the Continent of Europe, have 
opened Branches of their House in America, and are now giving increased attention 
to ordinary travelling arrangements^ mth a view to 

RENDERING IT EASY, PRACTICABLE, AND ECONOMICAL 

Ikiring the ia,st thirty-five years, over four miUicai travdllers have visited near 
and distant points, under their management, safely and pleasantly. 

Their arrangements are now so extensive, that they cov«r i)orti(ms of the four 
quarters of the globe. At their oflB^ce in New Yoris can be found the Railway and 
Steamship Tickets used by the travellers for a journey through all parts of 
IRELAND, GEEMAFT, SPAIN, THE LET ANT, 

SCOTLAND, BAYARIA, ITALY, PALESTINE, 

ENGLAND, AUSTRIA, TURKEY, INDIA, 

WALES, HOLLAND, EGYPT, CHINA, 

FRANCE, BELGIUM, GREECE,* &e^ 

OR 

EUROPE, ASIA, AFRBCA, & AMERICA. 

Sold, in all cases^ at reductions, from ordinary, rates.. 



FIMt AMERICA, 

MESSRS. COOK, SON, & JENKINS have for three years past been engaged in 
perfecting in this country their system of Tours, and beg to announce that their 
Tickets are now received by upwards of One Hundred and Fifty of the leading Rail- 
ways and Steamboat Companies of the United States and Canada. 

AT THEIR OFFICES, 

now established at the places named below, can be procured complete Sets of Tickets 
from all the leading business-centres, to travel to and visit all the places of Tourist 



AD VERTISEMENTS. 



Resort. The Tickets are prepared in little books, similar to the European custom ; 
the Tickets being sold in all cases at reductions from ordinary fares. 

THE MARITIME PROVINCES 

are completely coTered by the Tourist Tickets of JIessks. Cook, Son, & Jenkins ; 
every Railway and every Steamboat Company being included. Tourists have only to 
name the route they wish, and no matter how complicated it may be. Tickets can be 
issued. 

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

The combinations ci Railways, Steamers, and Stages for the White Mountains are of 
the completest character ; all being utilized. No matter how diverse in their in- 
terests, every line leading from Boston, Portland, Montreal, or New York to the 
White Mountains is used by them. 

THE SOUTH AND WEST AND NORTHWEST. 

Their Tourist System extends to Florida, to Texas, or to California and the Yo- 
semite, and Tickets can be issued for the Mississippi River from New Orleans to St, 
Paul, while the steamers on the Great Northern Lakes are equally at their com- 
mand. 

THEIR GENERAL TRAVELLING ARRANGEMENTS 

are of such a character, that Tickets for Tours to any part of the country can be 
arranged and supplied at reduced rates. 

Those intending to make long or short Tours or Excursions should apply by mail 
or in person at any of the offices of Cook, Son, & Jenkins. 



* BRANCHES. 

BOSTON 69 Washington Street. 

WASHINGTON 701 loth Street, corner G. 

SAN FRANCISCO .... 3 New Montgomery Street. 

PHILADELPHIA 614 Chestnut Street. 

NEW^ ORLEANS 35 Carondelet Street. 

PITTSBURGH . . . 167 Federal Street CAUeghany). 

CHIEF OFFICE, 

COOK, SON, & JENKINS, 

Tourist & Excursion ]N£anagers, 

261 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 



10 



AD VERTISEMENTS. 



PORTLAND STEAM PACKET COMPANY. 

DAILY LINE OF FIRST-CLASS STEAMERS BETWEEN 

Boston and Portland 

THKOFGHOUT THE TEAK. 




One of the first-class steamers of tMs Line, 

JOHN BROOKS, - - FALMOUTH, - - FOREST CITY, I 

Will leave India Wharf, Boston, ETEEY ETEXING, Sundays excepted, ^ 

connecting, on arriyal at Portland, "with railway trains for 

North Conway, WMte Moimtains, Gorham, N. H., MontreaJ, 

QUEBEC, AND ALL PARTS OF CANADA. 

ALSO WITH STEAMERS FOR 

Bangor, Mt. Desert, Machias, Halifax, N. S., Prince Edward 
Island, Cape Breton, and St. Jobns, N. F. 

Returning, leave Portland ETERY ETENING for Boston (Sundays excepted). 

Ei^ Througli Tickets to the aliove points sold on board tlie 
steamers. 

The Steamers of this line are well famished, and have a large number of elegant 
and airy State-rooms, and tourists will find this 

A MOST PLEASANT ROUTE TO THE MOUNTAINS, 

COMBINING A SHORT SEA-TRIP AND A RAILWAY RIDE- 



TIME OF SAILING. 
X<eave Boston, in Summer, at 7 P. M. In Winter, at 5 P. M» 
** Portland, at 7 P. M. throughout the year. 



WM. WEEKS, Agent, 

INDIA WHARF, 
Boston. 



J. B. COTLE, Jr., Gen. Aff't, 

FRANKLIX WHARF, 
Portland. 



AD VER TI SEME NTS. 



11 



SREAT EXGURSION ROUTE 

TO THE BRI TISH PROVINCES. 

MAIL STEAMSHIP LINE TO 

CHARLOTTETOWN, P.E.I., 
STRAIT OF GANSO, AND ISLAND OF GAPE BRETON. 




Tlie Magnificent New Side- Wli eel Steamsliip 

IF" j^L. iLa im: O XJ "^ h , 

(Built Expressly for tlie Route) TT. A, COIiBY, Commander, 

Having splendid Cabin and State-Eoom Accommodations, 

W LL LEAVE PORTLAND EVERY SATURDAY AT 5.30 P.M. 

(or on arrival of Train leaving Boston at noon) 

Connecting with the Intercolonial Railway for Windsor, Truro, N^ew Glasgow, Pictou, 
Charlottetown, P. E. Island, and Lindsey's Stage Line for Antigonish, Guysboro', 
Sherbrooke. Strait of Canso, St. Peters, and Sydney, C. B. 

Returning, will leave Halifax on TUESDAYS, at 8.30 P. M. 

(5^^ Passengers desiring an all- water trip can obtain through tickets from Boston 
via Steamer to Portland. 

THROUGH TSCKETS FOR SALE 

In New York on board the Steamers of the Fall River, Norwich, and Stonington 
Lines, and also at the office of the Maine Steamship Co., Pier 38, East River ; 

In Boston at the Eastern or Boston & Maine EaUwaj Stations, and on board the 
Steamers for Portland. 
51^^ Passengers are landed on arrival at Portland directly to the Steamer {via 

Eastern Railroad only), without expense or transfer. 

EXCURSION TICKETS TO HALIFAX AND RETURN 

For sale in Boston at 134 Washington Street, and at the Railway Stations, also on 
board the Portland Steamers. 

Ba^ga^e checked through from Boston. 

State-Rooms can be secured in advance by mail or by application at the 

Agents' Offices. 

WM. WEEKS, Ag't, I J.B.COTLE,Jr.,Gen.As't, I GEO. P. BLACK, Ag't, 

India Wharf, Boston. | Franklin Wharf, Portland. | Halifax, N. S. < 



12 AD VER TISEMENTS. 



SUMMER RESORT. 



ISIaAMB PARK HOTKL17 

SUMMERSIDE, 

IPrince Ed-ward Island. 



This New Hot«»l, accommodating about one hundred and fifty guests, ■will open 1st 
June. It contains, in addition to the sleeping apartments, a number of public and 
private Parlors, Billiard, Reading, Smoking, Barber's, and Bar rooms. Picturesquely 
situated on an island, one hundred and forty acres in extent, in Bedeque Bay, directly 
opposite the rising town of Summerside, it combines the retirement insured by the 
insular position of its surroundings with equal convenience to a position in the town. 
Beautiful views of the harbor are obtainable from the windows and roof of the Hotel, 
and from the carriage-drive around the Island. The grounds are being tastefully laid 
out ^rith walks and drives, the greater part being left finely wooded. Sea-Bathing 
can be enjoyed with suitable privacy on various parts of the beach near the Hotel, 
dressing-rooms having been constructed for the purpose. A Ferry Steamer, belong- 
ing to the Hotel, will ply frequently to and from Summerside, and will regularly meet 
all steamers from Shediac and Charlottetown; and can be made available for pic- 
nics, fishing and shooting parties, and pleasure excursions on the Bay. Horses, 
carriages, rowing and sail boats, always on hire. Families and parties can have con- 
tiguous suites of rooms, if required, by sending a reasonable notice beforehand. 

Terms, ®3.00 per day. Special arrangements can be made for 
summer residence. 

FRESH OYSTERS IN ABUNDANCE. 

J. L. HOLMAN, Proprietor. 

Summerside, P. E. I., 1875. 

'" BADBECK 

AND THAT SORT OF THINO. 

By Charles Dudley Warner, author of " My Summer In a Garden," etc. ^ 1.00. 

" For perfect drollery of situation and sentiment, and the daintiest surprises of fun, 
and for the traveller's good-humored perception of absurdities told with sprightliness 
and the most charming abandon, we account Mr. Warner's desciiptfon of his pilgrim- 
age to Baddeck as one of the most wittily playful things in our literature since the 
* Sentimental Journey.' " — Christian Union. 

Warner's My Summer in a Garden . . . . . . $1.00 

Warner's Saunterings 150 

Warner's Back-Log Studies 2.00 

(I^^ Three of the most charmingly humorous books in American (or any other) 
literature. 

*** For sale hy Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price, hy the PuhlisTiers, 

JAMES E. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 13 



A CHEAP AND DELIGHTFUL 

SUMMEE TRIP. 



Boston, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island 
Steamship Line. 



Boston to Charlottetown, P. E. I., 

STOPPING AT 

HALIFAX, PORT HAWKESBURY, G.B., & PIGTOU, N.S. 



Tlie favorite sea-groing steamships 

CARROLL (1400 tons) &. WORCESTER (isootons) 

CAPT S. E. WEIGHT, CAPT. B. S. DOANE, 

Leave T WHARF, Boston, for the above ports, 

EVERY SATURDAY, AT 12 O'CLOCK. 



These steamers connect with the NOVA SCOTIA railways and coast-lines at 
Halifax and Pictou, giving opportunities to visit the chief attractions of the Mari- 
time Provinces. At Port Hawkeshury they connect with stages for all parts of the 
Island of CAPE BRETON and for the renowned and beautiful BRAS D'OR 
I<AKES. From Charlottetown the tourist can visit any part of Prince 
Edward Island, by the trains of the new Government Railway. 

THE STEAMSHIPS OF THIS LINE 

HAVE 

UNSURPASSED ACCOMMODATIONS FOR 
PASSENGERS. 



For tickets and further information, apply to 

WM. H. RING, ox- E. H. ADAMS, 
IS T Wharf. 219 Washington St. 




THE QUICKEST AND CHEAPEST ROUTE BETWEEN HALIFAX AND ST. JOHN. 

Making close connection at the latter city with the trains of the European and 
«f^lii American Railway, and also with the splendid steamers of the International 
®*J^I^^^P Company to and from Portland, Boston, and New York. 

m^r Tourists will find this the pleasantest route from New York, Boston. 
^^^^^' ^^^. ^*"' John to Halifax and all parts of Nova Scotia! 

{^^^ ihe road traverses the Valley of Acadia and the magnificent scenery made 
celebrated m the poem of Evangeline. 

,>.^^^o^.'^®^^ Trains leave Halifax daily at 8.30 a. m. for Annapolis, where 
connection is made every Iuesdat, Thuksdat, Fkidat. and Saturday with Steam- 
M^J^'*^ w^^"' steamers leave St. John at 8 a.m. for Annapolis every 
MONDAY, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, and connect with the 2 p. m. ex- 
press-train for Halifax. Through Tickets via this railAvay may be had at the 
pookmg-offices of the Eastern and Maine Central Railways, and on board the Interna- 
tional Steamship Company's Steamers. P. INNES, Gen. Manamr. 



AD VER TI SEME NTS. 1 5 



UNION LINE 

Bay and River Steamers. 

-^^ 

ST. JOHN TO HALIFAX. 

Shortest, Quickest, and Cheapest Route. 

steamer EMPRESS (or SCUD) wUl leave her wharf at EEED'S POINT, at 
8 A. M., for DIGBY and ANNAPOLIS, as 



January, February* and March, every "Wednesday and Saturday. Eetum- 
ing same day. 

April, May, and June, every Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday. Eetuming 
same day. 

July, Augmst, and September, every Monday, "Wednesday, Friday, and Sat- 
urday. Returning on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. 

October, November, and Deceuxber, every Monday, Wednesday, and Sat- 
urday. Returning same day. 

Connecting with Express Trains, "Windsor and Annapolis Railway, for Kentville, 
Wolfville, Windsor, Halifax, &c. Also with Stages for Yarmouth and Liverpool, N. S. 

B^^ The Railway runs through the t)eautirui aua plciuresque Tallev of AfifiHi*" 
(celebrated in Longfellow's " Evangeline "). 

FARES: 
St. John to Diglby, $1.50; to Annapolis, $2.00j to Halifax, $5.00. 



ST. JOHN TO FREHEHICTON. 

Fare, S1.50. 
Steamer BAVTD WESTON leaves UNION LINE WHARF, Indiantown, 
for Fredericton (calling at intermediate points) every Tuesday, Thursday, and 
Saturday, at 9 A. m. Returning foHowing days. 

For Grand Lake and Salmon Riyer. 

Steamer MAY QUEEN leaves her wharf at Indiantown every Wednesday 
and Satiurday at 8 a. m. Returning on Monday and Wednesday. 



THROUGH TICKETS FOR ALL POINTS WEST 

for sale on board the steamers at reduced rates. 

IjOW RATES OF FREIGHT. For further information apply to 

SMALL & HATHEWAY, 

39 Dock Street, ST. JOHN, N. B. 



IQ AD VER TI SEME NTS. 



Eastern Steamship Co. 

H. 3^. m:^il line 
BETWEEN HALIFAX, N. S., 

St. Johns, Newfoundland. 



steamer " YIKGO " ("oo tons), Capt. Burcliell, 

Will sail from Halifax for SL Jolins, Newfoundland, 

Touching at Sydney, Cape Breton, 

BOTH WATS, 

EVERY ALTERNATE TUESDAY AT 9 P.M., 

CommenciniT May ^5, 1875. 



HOKOUGHLY OVEEHAULED DURING THE P. 

with Cabins and State-rooms on tlie Upper Deck, off 

SUPERIOR ACCOMMODATIONS FOR TRAVELLERS. 



HAS BEEN THOROUGHLY OVEEHAULED DURING THE PAST WINTER, 
and with Cabins and State-rooms on the Upper Deck, offers 



FARES: 

Sydney, $8.00, St. Jolins, $15.00 

INCI.UDING STATE-ROOM. 



For further information inquire of 

J. TAYLOR WOOD, Agent. 

HaUfax, X. S., May 8, 1875. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 17 



ARRANGEMENT FOR 1875. 



INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMP'Y 

LINE OP STEAMERS BETWEEN 

Boston, Portland, Eastport, & St John, N. B., 

WITH CONNECTIOi^S TO 

CALAIS, ME., HAUFAX, N.S., CHARLaTTETOWN, P.E.I., 

&;o., &co.y &CO, 



The favorite and superior sea-soin^r Steamers of this Une, 

NEW YORK - - - - Capt. E. B. Winchester, 
CITY OF PORTLAND - Capt. S. H. Pike, 
NEW BRUNSWICK - - Capt. D. S. Hall, 

I^ave tlie end of Commercial "Wharf, Boston, at S A. M„ and Kail- 
road "Wharf, Portland, at 6 P. M., for Eastport and St, Jobn, N. B., with 
nsual connections as follows : — 

In April, May, and to June 15, one of tliese steamers -will leave every Monday 
and Thursday. 

From June 15, aiid through July, August, and September, eveiy Monday, 
"Wednesday, and Friday. 

In October, November, and December, every Monday and Thursday. 

Passengers wishing to take train to Portland can do so by the Morning and Noon 
trains of Boston & Maine and Eastern Eailroads from Boston, connecting with the 
Steamers at Portland at 6 p. m. 

Passengers forwarded by connecting steamers and railroad lines to Calais and 
Houlton, Me.; St. Andrews, Woodstock. Fredericton, and Shediac, N. B.; Amherst, 
Truro, New Glasgow, Pictou, Digby, AnnapoUs, KentvlUe, Windsor, Halifax and 
Liverpool, N. S.; Summerside and Charlottetown, P. E. I. 

RATES OF FARE FROM BOSTON 

To EASTPORT, $5.00; CALAIS, $5.50; ST. JOHN, $5.50; DIGBY 
«7.00; ANNAPOLIS, $7.50; KENTVILLE, S8.50; WINDSOR, $9.00; 
HALIFAX, via Annapolis, $ 9.50 ; via aU rail from St. John, $ ll.OO ; PICTOU, 
$ 11.00 ; SUMMERSIDE, $ 9.50 ; CHARLOTTETOWN, $ 10.50. 

FABES FROM POKTLANI) to the above places, one dollar less. 

THROUGH TICKETS AND STATE-ROOMS secured at the Agents' 
Offices or of the Clerks on board, who win also furnish, on application, a circular, 
with map and full description of the route. 

AGENTS: 

A. K. STUBBS, Portland; GEORGE HAYES, Eastport; H. W. CHISHOLM, St. 

John, N. B. 

W. H. KILBY, 

End of Commercial "Wharf, BOSTON. 



] 8 AD VER TI SEME NTS. 



Prince Edward Island 

UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE, 

I.eave CHARLOTTE TOWN for SUMMERSIDE and SHEDIAC 
every MONDAY and THURSDAY MORNING at 3 o'clock. 

licave SUMMERSIDE for SHEDIAC every day on arrival of 
morning train from Cliarlottetown. 

Leave SHEDIAC for SUMMERSIDE every day, on arrival of 
morning train from St. John. 

I.eave SUMMERSIDE for CHARLOTTETOWN every WEDNES- 
DAY and SATURDAY EVENING, at 6 o'clock. 

Iieave CHARXOTTETOWN for PICTOU and HAWKESBURY 
every MONDAY and THURSDAY MORNING, at 5 o'clock. 

Leave PICTOU for CHARLOTTE TOWN every WEDNESDAY 
and SATURDAY, on arrival of morning train f ronai Halifax. 

Leave PICTOU for HAWKESBURY every MONDAY and 
THURSDAY, on arrival of morning train from Halifax. 

Leave PICTOU for GEORGETOWN every TUESDAY and FRI- 
DAY, on arrival of morning train from Halifax. 

Leave GEORGETOWN for PICTOU and CHARLOTTETOWN 
every WEDNESDAY and SATURDAY MORNING at 5 
o'clock. 

Leave HAWKESBURY for PICTOU every MONDAY and 
THURSDAY, diaring night. 

Connect at Shediac with train for St. John, and there with Railways and Inter- 
national Steamers for all places in United States and Canada ; at Pictou with trains 
for Halifax and all places in N. S. ; at Hawkesbury with Coaches and Steamers for 
all places in Cape Breton ; at Summerside and Georgetown with trains for Charlotte- 
town and all places in the Island. 

AGENTS: 

Thos. Bolton, Halifax. Noonan & Davis, Pictou. 

Hanford. Bros., St. John. A. H. Sutherland, Hawkeshury. 

F. W» HALES, Sec'y-' 

Charlottetown, May 15, 1875. 



AD VER 1 ISEMENTS. \ 9 



TOURIST ! 

IN ORDER TO OBTAIN CORRECT INFORMATION REGARDING THE 
JOURNEY AND ALL RESORTS ON THE 

Gulf of St. Lawrence, 

Saguenay River, 

Quebec, Montreal, 

White Mountains, etc., 

AND 

1,000 DIFFERENT EXCURSION ROUTES 
AT REDUCED RATES, 



240 r IT"') Washington St., 

THE GENERAL OFFICE OF 

The Montreal and Boston Air Line, 

The Passumpsic Railroad, 

The Quebec and Gulf Ports Steamship Co., 

The St. Lawrence and Saguenay Steamer Line, 

The Richelieu Line of Steamers between Mon- 
treal and Quebec. 

GUSTAVE LEVE, Gen'l Agent. 



I^^Cail for ilBustrated and Descnptsve 
CarcuSars and Time-TabBe- 



20 AB VER TISEMENTS. 



The Speediest, Safest,& most Comlbrtable 

MODE OF TKAVEIi BETWEEN 

HILIFM km SYDNEY, G. B., 

IS BY THE 

INLMD ROUTE, 

Via Intercolonial Railway, to Pictou, Prince Edward Island steamers to Port 
Hawkesbury, and from West Bay down to Bras d"Or Lake, twice a week, 



THE POWERFUL SIDE-WHEEL STEAMSHIP 

NEPTUNE Capt. HOWARD BEATTIE, 

Carrying II. M. Mails, will leave Sydney every TUESDAY and THURSDAY morn- 
ing, passing through the entire length of the Bras d'Or Lake to West Bay, con- 
necting with the P. E. Island steamers at Port Hawkesbury for Pictou ; thence by 
Intercolonial Railway to Halifax. 

PASSENGERS LEAVING HALIFAX. 

TUESDAY and THURSDAY mornings, train for Pictou will connect with the 
NEPTUNE the same evening, and reach Sydney the following morning. 

The NEPTUNE will also leave Sydney every FRIDAY AFTERNOON, via Big 
Bras d'Or, for 

TTV n-'sr c::? o o €3 nvE -A. 13: , 

Calling at Kelly's Cove, and return the following day. 

THROUGH TICKETS from Sydney, via P. E. Island steamers, to Pictou, 
Charlottetown, and Shediac. Intercolonial Railway to St. John and International 
S. S. Company to Portland and Boston. One first-class ticket, $ 14.50. 

Any other information will be furnished by Capt. Beattie or any of the following 

AGENTS: 

HALIFAX JOHN TAYLOR & CO. 

SYDNEY C. H. HARRINGTON. 

NORTH SYDNEY .... WILLIAM PROCTOR. 
LITTLE BRAS D'OR .... JOHN H. CHRISTIE. 

BADDECK W. R. IRISH. 

WEST BAY ANGUS McPHEE. 

CHRISTMAS ISLAND . . . H. F. MoDOUGALL. 
PORT HAWKESBURY .... ALEX H. SUTHERLAND. 
WHYCOCOMAH .... PETER McDONALD. 



AD VER TI SEME NTS. 2 1 



THE SAUNTERER'S SERIES. 



** An exquisite series of little books, whose dainty beauty at once makes 
the hand a friend and the eye a lover, — while the varied freshness and 
grace of their contents charm their readers to admiration and delight." 

Each volume complete, tastefully bound and stamped, with red edges. 



Saunterin^s. By Charles Dudley Warner, Author of "My 

Summer in a Garden," " Backlog Studies," etc $1.50 

Bits of Travel. By H. H. With a Portrait of " A German Land- 
lady," and a Picture of Gasteln 1.50 

A Chance Acquaintance. By W. D. Howells, Author of 

" Their Wedding Journey," etc 1.50 

The Tour of the World in Eighty Days. By Jules Verne, 

Author of " Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Seas," etc. . . . 1.50 

Among the Isles of Shoals. By Mrs. Celia Thaxter. 

With Four Illustrations by H. Fenn . . 1.50 

Hap-Hazard. A Vohime of Travel and Character Sketches in 

America and Europe. By Kate Field . 1.50 

South Sea Idyls. Travel Pictures of the South Pacific and its 

Islands. By Charles Wakren Stoddard 1.50 

Normandy Picturesque. By Henry Blackburn, Author of 

" Artists and Arabs," etc. With Illustrations by the Author . . . 1.50 

Artists and Arahs. By Henry Blackburn, Author of " Nor- 
mandy Picturesque," etc. With Illustrations by the Author . . . 1.50 

Dr. Ox, and other Stories. By Jules Verne, Author of " The 

Tour of the World in Eighty Days," etc. Illustrated .... 1.00 

Gunnar : A Norse Romance. By H. H. Boyesen . . . 1.50 

Ten Days in Spain. By Kate Field, Author of "Hap- 
Hazard," etc 1.50 

Baddeck, and that Sort of Thing. By Charles Dudley 

Warner 1.00 

The Wreck of the Chancellor, and Martin Paz. By Jules 

Verne, Author of " The Tour of the World in Eighty Days " . . . 1.50 

Whip and Spur. By George E. Waring, formerly Colonel of 

the 4rth Missouri Cavalry 1.25 

Their Wedding Journey. By W. D. Howells .... 1.50 



j *^* For sale by all Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price, by 
^j^he Publishers, 

I JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



•22 AD VER TI SEME NTS. 



Books of European Travel. 



Saunterings. By Charles Dudley Warner, author of 

" My Summer in a Garden," etc. $ 1.50. 
. . . . " The book contains a little about England and Prance, more about Swit- 
zerland and Holland, and a great deal concerning South Germany and Italy. There 
is not a dull page in it ; but it glows with a quiet drollery and a genuine wit that is 
refreshing, and not provoking, as wit too often is," — Spring/ield Republican. 



Castilian Days. By John Hay. 12mo. $ 2.00. 

" A most attractive volume, in which Colonel Hay writes easily and picturesquely 
of the cities, streets, and buildings, and of the history, politics, and domestic life and 
character of the inhabitants, of that unique, old-fashioned country [Spam]." — • Lon- 
don Spectator. 

Hawthorne's European Sketches and Notes. 

Our Old Home. Essays on English towns, country scenes, people, and 

customs. f2.00. 
Snglisli Note-Boolts. Containing a multitude of hints and flying sketches 

of England and the English. $ 200. 
French and Italian Note-Books. Full of Hawthorne-ish observations 

and reflections. $2.00. 



Notes of Travel and Study in Italy. By Charles Eliot 

Norton. $ 1.25. 
" Mr. Norton is no ordinary tourist." — Phila. Press. 



Hoppin's Travel Sketches. 

Ups and Downs on I^and and Water. $10.00. 

Crossing tlie Atlantic. $ 8.00. 
Two very mirth-provoking books, diverting to look at while voyaging, pleasant to 
examine as reminders of travel past. 



The Lands of Scott. By James F. Hunnewell. 12mo. 

$2.50. 
" It is a deli§-htful epitome of the great author's life and works, the reader being 
introduced to a detailed acquaintance with these, while he is led through the locali- 
ties which the genius of Scott has celebrated." — Buffalo Courier. 



Six Months in Italy. By George S. Hillard. $ 2.00. 

" The record of a brilliant episode in the life of a scholar, which has filled his 
memory with images alike beautiful and enduring. It is almost minute enough in 
its descriptions for a guide-book, yet abounds in just and sensible remarks, well-in- 
formed criticisms, and varied learning." — Putnam^s Monthly. 



*^* For sale bt/ booksellers. Sent, post paid, on receipt of price by the 
Publishers, f 

JAMES R OSGOOD & CO., Boston, i 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 23 



Books of American Travel. 



New England : A full, concise, accurate guide-book to all the 

cities, mountain and seaside resorts, and memorable places in New England. 
Indispensable to every tourist within these six States. With many Maps and 
Plans. ^ 2.00. 

The Adirondacks : What summer comforts and recreations 

they offer. How to get there and to gain the most health and benefit from 
them, — and a very readable book, too. By W. H. H. Murray. With Maps 
and Illustrations, f 2.00. Cheaper Edition, without maps, $ 1.50. 

Newport : Some of its picturesque, romantic, and historical fea- 
tures, very charmingly described (and illustrated with Heliotypes) in " Oldport 
Days ' ' (.$ 250), and in " Malbone ; an Oldport Romance " (f 1.50). By T. W. 

HiGGINSON. 

Boston Illustrated : A clear, full, interesting representation of 

Boston and its suburbs. Very amply illustrated. 50 cents. 

Seaside Studies : A charming description, with illustrations 
of New England Polyps, Jelly-Fishes, and Star-Fishes. By Alexander and 
Mrs. E. C. Agassiz. $ 3.00. 

"Woods and By-Ways of New England: A delightful 

book, full of outdoor and forest information, " penetrated by the flavor and fra- 
grance of our New England woods and fields." By Wilson Elagg. With 
Heliotype Illustrations. 8vo. % 5.00. 

Thoreau's Excursions, Maine "Woods, Cape Cod, Wal- 

den, Canada, Concord and Merrimaclc Kivers; Marvellously keen 
and minute in observation, abounding in original suggestions, and exceedingly 
interesting. $ 2.00 each. 

Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada. By Clarence 

King. ^ 2.50. 
" A book bracing in tone, vivid in description, exciting in adventure, and abound- 
ing in valuable information. Since Tyndall's volume on the Alps, we have read 
nothing so vigorous and stimulating as Mr. King's narrative of mountain explora- 
tion." — Boston Globe. 

Historic Fields and Mansions of Middlesex. A familiar 

description of nimierous places, scenes, and buildings in Middlesex County, 
Mass., with records, reminiscences, and anecdotes of the men and events which 
have made it famous. By S. A. Drake. Heliotype Illustrations. $ 5.00. 

Old Landmarks and Historic Personages of Boston: 

Containing an immense amount of information about Boston, the changes it 
has undergone, and the men and women who have contributed to its renown. 
By S. A. Drake. Fully illustrated. $ 3.00. 

Hawthorne's American Note-Books. Full of curious ob- 
servation and felicitous description. % 2.00. 



) *^* For sale by Boohsdlers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price by the 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO, Boston. 



4^ 



24 



'AD VERTISEMENTJS. 



LITTLE CLASSICS, 



"A series of exquisitely printed little Tolumes in flexible binding 
and red edges, wliicb gather up tbe very choicest things in our lit- 
erature in the way of short tales and sketches."— ^Mifa^o Courier. 



The Prose Series includes twelve volumes, as follows : 



I. Exile. 

II. Intellect. 

III. Tragedy. 

IV. Life. 

V. Laughter. 

VI. Love. 



VII. Romance. 

VIII. Mystery. 

IX. Comedy. 

X. Childhood, 

XI. Heroism. 

XII. Fortune. 



Tastefully bound. Price, $ 1.00 each. 



" Too much praise cannot be accorded the projectors of this work. It lays, for a 
very small sum, the cream of the best writers before the reader of average means. It 
usually happens that very few, except professional people and scholars, care to read 
all that even the most famous men have written. They want his best work, — the 
one people talk most about, — and when they have read that they are satisfied." — 
New York Commercial Advertiser. 

" Confessedly the best miscellaneous collection of short stories anywhere attain- 
able."— Z/ar^ford Courant. 

" There is no other collection of short stories equal in value and variety." —jBos^on 
Advertiser. 

" Every one of these books is worth reading and hnyinz." — Springfield Republican. 

" These selections are made with exquisite taste, and appear in the daintiest little 
volumes imaginable." — Chicago Post. 

" The series contains nearly every gem of prose English literature, and whoever 
wishes to have the best story of a great writer, without the encumbrance of ail his 
works, will do well to get this series of ' Little Classics.' "—Boston Pilot. , 



■P 



*** For sale by all Booksellers. Sent ^ost-jpaid on receipt of price ly 
the publishers, 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




017 397 358 5 



